From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2144
Date: Friday, July 30, 2004 3:05 AM

There are 16 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Some Questions For The Group
From: "Michael & Denise" <luckeys71_at_dml_cox.net>

2. Re: Turbo question
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

3. Re: New Alternator
From: PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com

4. Re: Re: Turbo question
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

5. Re: Heatgun + Frame = Bye Bye Epoxy
From: PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com

6. Re: Refinishing the Binnacle
From: "dmcorlando2003" <SundeQuick_at_dml_aol.com>

7. Re: Re: Turbo question
From: PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com

8. Fan Fix
From: Tom <dmctom_at_dml_earthlink.net>

9. Re: Heatgun + Frame = Bye Bye Epoxy
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

10. RE: Fan fix Relay......Question which one???
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

11. Re: Turbo question
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

12. RE: Refinishing the Binnacle
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

13. RE: cold starting
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

14. Re: Turbo question
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

15. RE: Re: Door Lock Relays
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

16. RE: emissions test failed
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2004 21:12:39 -0400
From: "Michael & Denise" <luckeys71_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Some Questions For The Group

First let me say that this newsgroup is awesome!  The kind of support and friendliness exhibited here has helped ease some of my apprehension about working on a DeLorean.  That being said, I have a few more questions I'm hoping the group can help me with: 
a) My windshield wipers work but the washer doesn't-I'm thinking that most likely the washer motor has gone out or should I check for something else first? 
b) I just had all of the brake disc pads replaced but the front brakes tend to squeak while braking.  Any ideas what could be causing the noise?
c) About 50% of the time the car starts with no problem but the other 50% it tries to turn over but just doesn't quite make it.  I replaced the cold start valve but the problem still persists.  The only way I can get it started when this happens is to use starting fluid which I hate to do since I figured it can't be at all good for the engine.  I definitely need a tune up as I have had the car for 2 months and haven't replaced any of the plugs or wires yet.  Any other suggestions as to what may be causing my starting issue?
d) According to the VIN list my car #3760 had a grey interior but it is most certainly black and I have a hard time believing that it was entirely replaced somewhere along the way.  Do errors happen in the list or is my black interior actually grey?
Thanks again to all of the responses and support I have received-you definitely won't find this kind of camaraderie in many newsgroups nowadays!
Mike
#3760


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2004 01:55:05 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Turbo question

This is kind of a hoax on the uninformed that's been going around for 
quite a while. An electric supercharger big and powerful enough to do 
any good at all would take so much electricity that you'd be carrying 
around a bunch of batteries. And would cost significantly more than 
$150.

It won't hurt anything but your wallet, but it won't do any good 
either. Keep in mind that there is nothing to keep ebay sellers from 
making stuff up. 

Dave S


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Joseph Molino" <foxmul_at_dml_b...> wrote:
> hey guys,
> 
> what do you think of this bolt on supercharger that is electric.  
It is a
> neat idea.  I wanted an opinion.
> 




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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2004 22:15:49 EDT
From: PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: New Alternator

I got the D140 from Hervey, and I am extremely happy with it.  I did not have 
any mounting problems whatsoever, and hooking it up is a total breeze.  There 
is only one wire to connect, and one bundle of ground wires to connect, thats 
all there is to it.  Mine worked on the first try, no installation problems 
whatsoever.  My headlights do dim slightly until I hit the gas, but I think 
this is true with any car.  The A/C is almost un-noticeable now.  Starting at a 
stop light with the A/C on is nothing at all to me now, whereas a few months 
ago the car fought and wanted to stall everytime while using my horrid Ducellier 
alternator (which is for sale or trade by the way...).  The D140 has made a 
HUGE difference and makes it feel like I am driving a different car.  I 
reccomend it to anyone who has an original alternator on their DeLorean right now.

Patrick
1880


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2004 02:10:45 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: Re: Turbo question

In a word - it's crap.  Right up there with those swirl blade 
things that are supposed to increase fuel economy and power
delivery just by putting it in your air cleaner.

Don't waste your money.

--
Mike


-------------- Original message from "Joseph Molino" : -------------- 

> hey guys, 
> 
> what do you think of this bolt on supercharger that is electric. It is a 
> neat idea. I wanted an opinion. 
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?viewItem&rd=1&item=7913654014&ca 
> tegory=33741&sspagename=WDVW 
> 
> will it hurt our engines? also who sells the air intake mod to fit a k&N air 
> filter setup. it looks like a 3 inch tube like a cold air system and 
> replaces our box system. 
> 
> Thanks, 
> 
> Joseph M 
> vin 2850 
> 



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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2004 22:21:03 EDT
From: PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Heatgun + Frame = Bye Bye Epoxy

Just out of curiosity Matt, what are you going to do once all of the epoxy is 
removed?  Sandblast and powdercoat?  Word of advice, I have seen what the 
sandblasting of a frame does to a DeLorean, and the sand gets everywhere.  On one 
car the interior was perfect before hand, and when it returned it looked like 
60 years of dust had accumulated in it and it had to be cleaned all over 
again.  But the frame did look great.   Just my advice.

Patrick
1880


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2004 02:23:43 -0000
From: "dmcorlando2003" <SundeQuick_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Refinishing the Binnacle

I thought RTV was what was supposed to be used in our cars for 
numberous itmes.  Everywhere I have ever read says to use it from 
sealing areas around the doors to other applications in the trunk 
sealing paneles, etc...

Michael
VIN#02944

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, mike.griese_at_dml_w... wrote:

> In my opinion, RTV is not suitable for any automotive application 
as 
> it is not permanent, dissolves in many of the fluids present in an 
> engine bay, is a poor adhesive, and is not temperature stable.  




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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2004 22:26:09 EDT
From: PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Turbo question

I have also seen a product on www.turbonator.com that looks roughly similar 
to what is on that eBay auction.  I find it hard to believe that this electric 
"jet" for lack of a better word, can actually provide 35 extra horsepower.  
Since it is only forcing more air into the engine, I find it hard to believe it 
can do much damage to anything.  

Patrick
1880


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2004 22:30:49 -0400 (GMT-04:00)
From: Tom <dmctom_at_dml_earthlink.net>
Subject: Fan Fix

This will certaintly draw alot of opinions so I will add mine.  The cost of John's  new shroud and the fans would be more expensive than the fixes available.  While this looks like a great product I believe I heard John say at P.F. that it does not pull as much air as the original (please correct me if I am wrong) even though it does draw less power. Not that this is a bad thing........That would be a question for others to answer. 

I have been a loyal ZILLA customer and will offer my 2 cent towards the FANZILLA product as it has been one of the best investments I have made.   The other fan fixes may be worthwhile but my understanding is that these operate differently than FANZILLA.  The sequential operation of the fans dramatically improves power loss and has worked for me 100% with total satisfaction.   Again this is personal opinion, but I think that if you can get a FANZILLA unit I suggest buying it even though some feel it is too expensive.

Bottom line?.......Pick which one you feel most comfortable with.  Your question is certaintly fair to ask but I think that with so many people on the list you will find there is no conclusion answer.  



Tom Watkins
#005732






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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2004 02:24:41 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Heatgun + Frame = Bye Bye Epoxy

Just be careful - there are some boxed-in areas where you'll remove 
the epoxy (i.e. it will fall off the back side of the metal) but 
can't get anything back in there to re-coat it. Particularly the 
front frame right behind the rack. The only way in there is either to 
drill a hole in the center of the panel or remove and re-weld it. 

What you are seeing seems normal, mine was like that too. 

What are you going to replace the epoxy with?

Dave S


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Matt" <supermatty_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> WOW!  A heatgun really does wonders removing the epoxy from the 
> frame.  Previously I had been using a drill with a wire brush 
> attachment but this is WAY better.  Yes, you still have to scrape, 
> but it comes off like warm butter.  It takes about 10 seconds with 
> the gun to warm the area sufficiently to start scraping but after 
> it's hot, moving to an adjacent area is very easy.  
> 




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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2004 22:04:44 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Fan fix Relay......Question which one???

Mike,
What do you think or want the relay kit to do. I believe there is a pre
conceived notion that a relay kit that cost $200.00 and one the cost $99.00
will do a better job.
( not true. ) We use top quality Bosch 40amp relay's along with name brand
fuses and circuit breakers like Bussman and Littlefuse. The problem is we
buy them in quantity and pass on the savings with our low over head. It's
like going to a shop and telling everyone I spent $1000.00 on getting some
work done with $300.00 worth of fuel parts. The $700.00 worth of labor
doesn't make the car run better and neither does the difference in cost of
parts. I know several people that learned on their cars how to fix them and
saved a lot of labor from very good qualified shops.
I guess my point is that throwing a few parts at the car isn't going to fix
all that ails a 20+ year old car that most likely wasn't taken car of over
the years. Problems need to be addressed either as I do pre maintenance or
get the knowledge of the group or your favorite shop as to what needs to
make the car a reliable driving machine.
I will try to help anyone that has a problem with the car in respect as to
what I do and sell, but there are other people in the group that have better
expertise in other areas of the car.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com
Home of the Fan Fix 2 x 2
And the alternators.
100% warranty.




-----Original Message-----
From: Mike [mailto:mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com]
Sent: Thursday, July 29, 2004 10:03 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Fan fix Relay......Question which one???


Hiya All

GOing to be updating the relays and fuses in my car very soon and
notice my cars not fitted with any fan relay fix of any kind, whats
peoples opinion on the kits available they seem to range in price and
actual claims as to what they do

Thanks All


Mike


bozzzy
Hull, Uk
doc403
#2001




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Message: 11
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2004 03:15:35 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Turbo question

What you're looking at is an exhaust fan for a bathroom. This will do 
preciecly NOTHING!

Well, that might not be entirely true. After all, you will be placing 
a large restrcition onto your intake.

When measuring any kind of forced induction, note that everything is 
measured in Appliable Pressure (PSI, or kPa). NOT it's restriction, 
or CFM! When a carburetor lists it's CFM, it specifies the amount of 
air that it can meter fuel out to. NOT how much air it is able to 
force into the engine. Think about it. When was the last time you 
heard Garret, or Paxton touting the "CFM rating" of their turbo, and 
super chargers?

The only thing that I've ever seen come close to being an electric 
supercharger was the e-ram. It put out 2psi onto the motor. BUT, it's 
such a drain on the electrical system, that even the mfg reccomends 
that you wire it thru the WOT switch, and wire directly to the 
battery to reduce the impact on the electrical system. And even then, 
you gains are gonna be minimal.

As for these "electric supercharger" kits on eBay, the truly do 
nothing, except part you from your cash. If the seller was smart, he 
wouldn't bother with the toted horsepower claims. Idiot stuff like 
that lands people in court for fasle advertising. Any increase that a 
person "sees" by bolting one of these fans onto their cars is purely 
psychological.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Joseph Molino" <foxmul_at_dml_b...> wrote:
> hey guys,
> 
> what do you think of this bolt on supercharger that is electric.  
It is a
> neat idea.  I wanted an opinion.
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?
viewItem&rd=1&item=7913654014&category=33741&sspagename=WDVW
> 
> will it hurt our engines? also who sells the air intake mod to fit 
a k&N air
> filter setup.  it looks like a 3 inch tube like a cold air system 
and
> replaces our box system.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Joseph M
> vin 2850
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Martin Gutkowski" <martin_at_dml_d...>
> To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, July 27, 2004 6:49 PM
> Subject: Re: [DML] Re: Turbo question
> 
> 
> > When my friend bought #2727 some numpty had plumbed the boost 
gauge into
> > the intake portion of the pipework, so it never read above zero 
either.
> > Make sure the gauge is connected to the back of the intake 
manifold (LH
> > side)
> >
> > Simple stuff first!
> >
> > Martin
> >
> > Marc Levy wrote:
> >
> > >If the boost gage does not go above zero (showing
> > >boost) then you have a problem.
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please 
address:
> > moderators_at_dml_d...
> >
> > For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
> www.dmcnews.com
> >
> > To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >




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Message: 12
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2004 22:23:58 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Refinishing the Binnacle

David,
I have a custom shop that is doing it for me and the cost will be about
$179.95  exchange with another that can be rebuilt. I understood that the
idea to remanufacture them was scrapped due to the tooling cost.
John Hervey





-----Original Message-----
From: David Teitelbaum [mailto:jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net]
Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2004 9:50 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Refinishing the Binnacle


I would like the list's suggestions on how everyone is fixing up their
binnacle. On the car I recently bought the binnacle is all cracked up
and faded. I called Just Dashes and they want $400 to redo it (and
right now the wait is 10-12 weeks!). Does anyone have a better idea?
Don't suggest a dash cover.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757




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moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

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Message: 13
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2004 22:31:17 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: cold starting

If you have vacuum leak and/or the air flow plate doesn't deflect down far
enough to allow fuel to flow to the injectors with out depressing the
accelerator then I would address that first. Then if you have a bad running
situation you may want to suspect the warm up regulator. You could also have
a bad connection on the starter solenoid wire that goes to the ignition coil
resistor thru the relay. There needs to be about 9 to 10 volts to the coil
to get a good spark providing the ignition coil is good.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com



-----Original Message-----
From: likl3189 [mailto:likl3189_at_dml_yahoo.com]
Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2004 9:07 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] cold starting


Thanks for the reply David T
My DMC vin 20020 Always started instantly and I mean so instantly
that I could'nt hear the starter cranking, without holding down the
acc pedal 1/4 and anyhow I tried it and it still did'nt start
I took off the cold start valve and held it while someone turned the
start key and it sprayed a nice wide pattern.
I had recently replaced the dist cap,rotor.spark plugs and ignition
wiring.and the engine runs beautifully but i still have to hit the
ign key two times to start.The second time it starts instantly like
it used to on the first try.
It seems the problem is elsewhere.
I suspect the CPR.

This is a great Newsgroup for DMC owners and Ive learned a lot here
Thank you all.




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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2004 03:36:42 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Turbo question

The electric blowers are definatly the "Hot Ticket" now on the
imports. It started with guys experimenting with leaf blowers. They
rewound the motors by hand so they would run on 12v DC. No hard to
line up belts, no fancy exhaust pipe plumbing, no turbo lag. I can't
comment on this specific set-up but this is the future. Same thing
with electric power steering, it will be the universal standard in the
near future. In fact the car of the future will be entirely
"Drive-By-Wire. All of this is in preperation for the hybrids and the
electric cars of the future. You may need to beef up the electrical
system to handle the bigger loads. New cars are going to 48 volts and
more to keep the wire sizes small. You may need a larger capacity
battery, heavy wiring to the blower, and a larger output alternator to
keep up with everything. Improving the breathing on the intake side is
only a job half-done. To realize the full potential you have to
improve the exhaust too. The ultimate will be a full bore engine
management system, direct pulse fuel injection, and  an electric
blower. Too bad the trans will not be able to keep up. If you raise
the horsepower and torque of the motor and drive aggresively you will
quickly kill the clutch and the transmission.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Joseph Molino" <foxmul_at_dml_b...> wrote:
> hey guys,
> 
> what do you think of this bolt on supercharger that is electric.  It
is a
> neat idea.  I wanted an opinion.
> 
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?viewItem&rd=1&item=7913654014&category=33741&sspagename=WDVW
> 
> will it hurt our engines? also who sells the air intake mod to fit a 




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Message: 15
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2004 22:35:02 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Door Lock Relays

Johnny, I have the original relay that go on the lock module PC board along
with some newer harder contact ones. The are on the web site. You can always
relocate the relay's and use higher current one as long as the coil
resistance is close. I have also have some relays that are a small 75 amp.
John Hervey






-----Original Message-----
From: thebrave65 [mailto:johnnysher1_at_dml_cox.net]
Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2004 9:19 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Door Lock Relays


I didn't even know he had those!  The ones on my module are not
stuck, but I know I should probably replace them anyway.  So much
for my "clever" surfing!  Ahh well, that's why I post before I jump.

I have the lock module tech notes printed out from dmcnews and plan
to follow them for the replacement parts on the circuit board.

One question about that, does that mean the module won't send stored
current to the solenoids and fry them after this fix?  Or is this
just one of those "do it because you can" mods?

I don't think my solenoids are shot just yet because they both
unlock from outside the passenger door.  At least I'm hoping they're
not.  If they are, I'm definately going to get the actuators simply
because of cost.  The module itself doesn't smell burned either.

Funny after looking at the back of this circuit, it looks rather
amateur.

Johnny
5518


> Why not just buy the correct ones from John Hervey?
> http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/electrical.html
>
> Harold McElraft - 3354
>
>
>
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_c...>
> wrote:
> > I found some relays that look similar to the ones that go onto
the
> > lock module.  My locks decided it was time to stop working last
> week
> > and I'm going to attempt to rebuild the circuit board myself.
> >
> > Does anyone know if the relays are 12v or if the 24v relay I
found
> > might work?
> >
> > It LOOKS like the same relay, but I can't be for sure.  For only
> $.50
> > each they won't break the bank!
> >
> > http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?
> > category=500&item=RLY-275&type=store
> >
> > Let me know what you think.
> >
> > Johnny
> > 5518




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Message: 16
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2004 22:37:04 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: emissions test failed

or an 02 sensor.That will make a lot of difference.
John




-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Sontos [mailto:dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net]
Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2004 3:59 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] emmissions test failed


What about plugs, wires, cap, and rotor. After 10,000 miles it probably
needs a tune-up.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Matthew P. Olans" <mpolans_at_dml_creeper.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>; <az-d_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2004 3:55 PM
Subject: [DML] emmissions test failed


> Hey everyone,
>         Well, my 2-year emissions test has come and gone, 3 times now,
> without success.  The first time I ran it through, it failed for CO....AZ
> limit is 20 grams/mile and I tested at 34.89.  The tester missed a few 2-3
> shifts and ended up in 5th, giving it full throttle which I thought would
> have made the difference since 2 years ago I passed with 11.84 grams/mile.
> I insisted they retest it with a more competent driver and he registered
> 21.24 grams/mile...still a failure.





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