From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2145
Date: Friday, July 30, 2004 5:56 PM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. RE: ac question
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

2. Re: Heatgun + Frame = Bye Bye Epoxy
From: "Matt" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

3. RE: Fan fix Relay......Question which one???
From: "Ken" <service_at_dml_techno-concepts.com>

4. RE: Fan Fix
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

5. RE: Fan Fix
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

6. Re: Turbo question (DeLo Intake/Exhaust)
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

7. Re: Fan fix Relay......Question which one???
From: "Richard" <dmc_driver_at_dml_yahoo.ca>

8. Re: 3rd Brake Light Wiring
From: "Richard" <dmc_driver_at_dml_yahoo.ca>

9. Re: Re: Turbo question
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>

10. Re: New Alternator--Vendor Help
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

11. RE: Heatgun + Frame = Bye Bye Epoxy
From: "Cecil Longwisch" <dmc1982_at_dml_msn.com>

12. RE: Some Questions For The Group
From: "Dom Diaz" <dom_diaz_at_dml_hotmail.com>

13. Re: Some Questions For The Group
From: "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_cox.net>

14. Frame+Epoxy
From: "austinbrumley" <austinbrumley_at_dml_delorean.com>

15. RE: Re: Turbo question (DeLo Intake/Exhaust)
From: "Dom Diaz" <dom_diaz_at_dml_hotmail.com>

16. Re: Frame+Epoxy
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

17. RE: Fan fix Relay......Question which one???
From: "Gary Hull" <Specialty_at_dml_IN2TIME.com>

18. RE: Some Questions For The Group
From: "Dom Diaz" <dom_diaz_at_dml_hotmail.com>

19. Re: Heatgun + Frame = Bye Bye Epoxy
From: "Matt" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

20. Re: Frame+Epoxy
From: "Matt" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

21. Re: Frame+Epoxy
From: "Matt" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

22. Re: Re: Frame+Epoxy
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

23. RE: Re: Heatgun + Frame = Bye Bye Epoxy
From: "Cecil Longwisch" <dmc1982_at_dml_msn.com>

24. Re: Gaining HP/Losing Torque
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

25. Re: Frame+Epoxy
From: "austinbrumley" <austinbrumley_at_dml_delorean.com>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2004 22:49:28 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: ac question

Oliver, This question seems to come up every year and there are several on
the list that have opinions and solutions. Here is what I have found.

#1. If you have the blower motor or inside fan on 1 or 2 speed and the mode
switch on max and your re-circulating cold inside the compartment air then
the evaporator will have a tendency to freeze up faster and will shut on and
off in trying to protect it's self.

#2. If you put the mode switch on normal and draw in warmer outside air and
leaving the blower motor on 1 or 2 then the cycling switch will not cycle as
much.
Also if you put the blower motor on a higher speed and blow more and warmer
air over the evaporator coil then it won't cycle as much.

It all boils down to moving air over the evaporator coil to prevent freeze
up.

John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com



-----Original Message-----
From: standalonedump [mailto:stingray1963_at_dml_gmx.de]
Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2004 1:41 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] ac question


hello list,

my name is oliver and i am from germany. my car is vin 4575,
formerly owned by dave and melissa sly (iowa).
the car is running very well and is reliable but i have one problem.
the ac is permanently switching on and off. it has been refilled a
few weeks ago, which has stopped the problem for a few days but now
the same problem as before. maybe it is helpfull to know that the ac
is not switching on and off as long as the car is  running on idle,
i will start switching only while driving. any ideas?

thanks and regards,
oliver

off list:  info_at_dml_gullwings.net





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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2004 03:52:30 -0000
From: "Matt" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Re: Heatgun + Frame = Bye Bye Epoxy

I think to remove all of the epoxy on the frame with a heatgun and 
scraper would be suicide.  I'm only removing it where I have rust, 
and then I'm applying POR-15 silver over top of it.

Matt
#1604

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, PRC1216_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Just out of curiosity Matt, what are you going to do once all of 
the epoxy is 
> removed?  Sandblast and powdercoat?  Word of advice, I have seen 
what the 
> sandblasting of a frame does to a DeLorean, and the sand gets 
everywhere.  On one 
> car the interior was perfect before hand, and when it returned it 
looked like 
> 60 years of dust had accumulated in it and it had to be cleaned 
all over 
> again.  But the frame did look great.   Just my advice.
> 
> Patrick
> 1880
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2004 23:53:19 -0700
From: "Ken" <service_at_dml_techno-concepts.com>
Subject: RE: Fan fix Relay......Question which one???


The best doesn't always come cheep and 
Are worth the wait. Always call the people who repair Delorens not just
talking about them, like (Rob Grady) and (Don Steigler)or (Houston) it
doesn't cost anything but a phone call and these people have real shops and
people to help you.



Ken #02700

-----Original Message-----
From: Video Bob [mailto:videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com] 
Sent: Thursday, July 29, 2004 1:18 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Cc: mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com
Subject: RE: [DML] Fan fix Relay......Question which one???

There are two options.
John Herver and John Hervey.

You could buy a "FanZilla" if you can find one.
These are the most popular, however John Hervey sells his own version of 
these
and at a good price too.
I have never heard anyone complain.

One of his bigger alternators might also help.

However, rather than just putting a band-aid on the problem there is another

route.
You can replace the fans altogether.
Herver sells a whole shroud with two modern ball-bearing fans that pull HALF

the juice
and do the same job.
I have them on my car.

I went the extra step and also got his rediator which is bigger that the 
original (thicker)
and is all metal instead of plastic.

The new fans are so quiet you can barely hear them and they work like a 
modern car would.
They don't bog down the juice and you will nevver even know when they go on 
or off.

His website is http://www.specialtauto.com

- Videobob

>From: "Mike" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Fan fix Relay......Question which one???
>Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2004 16:02:34 -0000
>
>Hiya All
>
>GOing to be updating the relays and fuses in my car very soon and
>notice my cars not fitted with any fan relay fix of any kind, whats
>peoples opinion on the kits available they seem to range in price and
>actual claims as to what they do
>
>Thanks All
>
>
>Mike
>
>
>bozzzy
>Hull, Uk
>doc403
>#2001
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>





To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2004 23:02:31 -0500
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Fan Fix

I never said that replacing your radiator and fans is an economical 
desicion.
John says they pull 80% of the air volume while using half of the power to 
do it.
The days have gotten up to the 100's around here and it has been working on 
my car.
I did have an issue with the motor running a little hotter than I would want
but it seems to be an issue with my NOT re-installing the air scoop shroud 
that goes
in front of the radiator. When I was speeding in the 90's on a hot day the 
temp
would get near the middle of the gauge, I addressed this with John and he 
told me
that the fans really have no effect over 40 MPH, after that you need airflow
which I am lacking right now.
I will be fixing it soon.

However when it comes to ZILLA vs. a FIX, it seems to be nothing more than
a loyalty issue. ...and maybe price.
John said he has been selling his FAN-FIX kits like crazy since ZILLA does 
not seem
to be concerned with his business and customers.
Rob Grady tells me that he has been so busy working on his new house that
he has not had time for anything, I am going through the same thing so
I completely understand.
However, as a ZILLA customer I have become frusterated with the tickling
of my ass with a feather about his other up-coming goodies that are all plug 
and play
such as the much awaited "door-launchers".

However after spending $440 for a Lock-ZILLA with a remote, I am feeling 
that there
are a lot better solutions out there for a LOT less money.
I will admit, it was cool to be able to simply plug-n-play the kit in 30 
seconds,...
I guess it comes down to the old addage, "time or money".

Everyone know I do lots of business with John Hervey and I will not hide the 
fact
that I endorse his products because I use them myself.
However I buy stuff from Grady, Stegar and Houston all the time and they all
know me well and we all have great relationships, and for these 4 main 
vendors
DeLorean parts are their bread and butter and main source of income.

All of the vendors will give you lots of support on thier products.
It just comes down to price.
I have learned that because something is more expensive does not mean it is 
better.

As far as the radiator and fans goes in my case, I needed to replace them 
after a wreck
and it was a cheaper and better solution.

- Videobob
VIN#5278





>From: Tom <dmctom_at_dml_earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Fan Fix
>Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2004 22:30:49 -0400 (GMT-04:00)
>
>This will certaintly draw alot of opinions so I will add mine.  The cost of 
>John's  new shroud and the fans would be more expensive than the fixes 
>available.  While this looks like a great product I believe I heard John 
>say at P.F. that it does not pull as much air as the original (please 
>correct me if I am wrong) even though it does draw less power. Not that 
>this is a bad thing........That would be a question for others to answer.
>
>I have been a loyal ZILLA customer and will offer my 2 cent towards the 
>FANZILLA product as it has been one of the best investments I have made.   
>The other fan fixes may be worthwhile but my understanding is that these 
>operate differently than FANZILLA.  The sequential operation of the fans 
>dramatically improves power loss and has worked for me 100% with total 
>satisfaction.   Again this is personal opinion, but I think that if you can 
>get a FANZILLA unit I suggest buying it even though some feel it is too 
>expensive.
>
>Bottom line?.......Pick which one you feel most comfortable with.  Your 
>question is certaintly fair to ask but I think that with so many people on 
>the list you will find there is no conclusion answer.
>
>
>
>Tom Watkins
>#005732
>
>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2004 23:11:06 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Fan Fix

Tom and Group,
I bought a CFM meter last week and I am learning how to use it.
The new fans draw 11 amps of run current compared to the original at 28
amps. For as long as I can remember the group has always talked about and
have looked for ways to lessen the current draw on the electrical system. We
have look at light bulbs that can make a 3 to 5 amp difference but nothing
major. I feel the new pancake fans is a major current break thru for our
car.
It may not be for everyone, but it has it's place. It's just the newest
technology for the times.
Also, over the years been a lot of pro's and cons over running 2 fans vs. 1
fan. I feel this is respectful as to where you live and what time of the
year it is and how fast your going. The rule of thumb I believe is 30 to 40
MPH and the fans are no longer drawing air. So why have them running and
drawing all the 28 + amps when you don't need it. No matter whether you
stagger them on and off or switch them on and off. Yes, My Fan Fix is
different in design because they run straight off the battery and not off
the wiring loom of the car so there is no need to stagger and rob power from
other components.
So for those reasons I produced the new Fan's and continue to have good
sales on
The Fan Fix 2 x 2.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com






-----Original Message-----
From: Tom [mailto:dmctom_at_dml_earthlink.net]
Sent: Thursday, July 29, 2004 8:31 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Fan Fix


This will certaintly draw alot of opinions so I will add mine.  The cost of
John's  new shroud and the fans would be more expensive than the fixes
available.  While this looks like a great product I believe I heard John say
at P.F. that it does not pull as much air as the original (please correct me
if I am wrong) even though it does draw less power. Not that this is a bad
thing........That would be a question for others to answer.

I have been a loyal ZILLA customer and will offer my 2 cent towards the
FANZILLA product as it has been one of the best investments I have made.
The other fan fixes may be worthwhile but my understanding is that these
operate differently than FANZILLA.  The sequential operation of the fans
dramatically improves power loss and has worked for me 100% with total
satisfaction.   Again this is personal opinion, but I think that if you can
get a FANZILLA unit I suggest buying it even though some feel it is too
expensive.

Bottom line?.......Pick which one you feel most comfortable with.  Your
question is certaintly fair to ask but I think that with so many people on
the list you will find there is no conclusion answer.



Tom Watkins
#005732






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moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2004 05:25:25 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Turbo question (DeLo Intake/Exhaust)

Biggest restriction isn't on the intake, but exhaust side. Intake
plumbing averages 2" or so PER BANK. Exhaust plumbing ultimately
reaches 1 5/8" for BOTH BANKS. Thats a 60% reduction in size!

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Joseph Molino" <foxmul_at_dml_b...> wrote:
>
> will it hurt our engines? also who sells the air intake mod to fit a
k&N air
> filter setup.  it looks like a 3 inch tube like a cold air system and
> replaces our box system.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Joseph M
> vin 2850
> 





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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2004 07:12:24 -0000
From: "Richard" <dmc_driver_at_dml_yahoo.ca>
Subject: Re: Fan fix Relay......Question which one???

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Payne" <bpayne_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> You could go with Fanzilla if you wish. It's a great product but the
only
> downside is the price. You can check out pjgrady.com for more
information
> about it's features.
> 
> John Hervey sells the Fan Fix at specialtauto.com. It's a different
design
> but a good way to go if you're trying to save some money. He stands
behind
> the product if you ever have problems. It also lights up your
cooling fan
> fail warning light whenever the fans are on so you can see when
they are
> actually being powered.
> 
> Payne
> #2975
> > Hiya All


They're both great products.  I have John's Fan Fix in my car and have
no complaints about it.  It doesn't switch on the fans sequentially
like the Fanzilla does, but it still greatly reduces the load on the
car's electrical system, since it draws directly from the battery
instead of through the circuit box.  As for the Fanzilla, I've heard
nothing but praise about it as well.  They're both wise replacements
for the blue fan-fail module, which has almost a 100% failure rate,
and the jumper wire "factory fix" which is a fire waiting to happen. 
Mine was already partially melted when I took it out!  A fire in the
fuse/relay area is disastrous, since it is surrounded by wood(!) 
Still scratching my head over why DMC did that.

Richard Rowe
Vin 5853  




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2004 06:41:59 -0000
From: "Richard" <dmc_driver_at_dml_yahoo.ca>
Subject: Re: 3rd Brake Light Wiring

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, kayoong_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Mike: 
> 
> The easiest way is to splice it into the brake light wire that is on
the 
> passenger's side and then run it along the side of the passenger's
side rear panel 
> and under the rubber.   (The rubber strip that dampens the rear
louver that 
> is on the rear fender).   
> 
> You can do a simple splice by using of those simple "clip on
splicers."   I 
> done it that way.   You can also do it the "long way" by cutting the
original 
> supply wire to the brake light board and use a terminal crimping all
the wires 
> together.   Then tuck the new third wire inside the "u" channel area
of the 
> rubber running along the the under side of top louver, right up to
the third 
> brake light housing.   At this point you can also add a "connecting
plug" with 
> one end of the plug to the third light unit and the other end to the
wire.   So, 
> in case you need to take off the louver; you can just unplug the
connectors 
> without cutting the wire.
> 
> Kayo
> 
>
==========================================================================
Another way to route the wires is through the hollow part of the rear
quarter panel above the glass.  Get a coat hanger and straighten it
out or use a piece of piano wire to fish the wires through.  It's a
little more work but it hides the wires well.

Richard Rowe
Vin 5853




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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2004 08:25:31 -0400
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Turbo question

Just read the writeup for one on EBAY.  You can't believe everything you
read on the internet, but this is probably the most realistic writeup of
the electric supercharger yet.  

Basically, it says it can generate ~2PSI, which I think is possible. 
Also says it requirese 7.5amps... at 110 volts!!!  Not only do you need
an inverter, this is going to be sucking down more than 70 amps from your
alternator!  Time to get that alternator replaced....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=791339
1835

Jim

ps claims 10-20hp.


On Fri, 30 Jul 2004 01:55:05 -0000 "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
writes:
> This is kind of a hoax on the uninformed that's been going around for 
> 
> quite a while. An electric supercharger big and powerful enough to 
> do 
> any good at all would take so much electricity that you'd be 
> carrying 
> around a bunch of batteries. And would cost significantly more than 
> $150.
> 
> It won't hurt anything but your wallet, but it won't do any good 
> either. Keep in mind that there is nothing to keep ebay sellers from 
> 
> making stuff up. 
> 
> Dave S
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Joseph Molino" <foxmul_at_dml_b...> wrote:
> > hey guys,
> > 
> > what do you think of this bolt on supercharger that is electric.  
> It is a
> > neat idea.  I wanted an opinion.
> > 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please 
> address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
>  
> 
> 


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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2004 06:06:32 -0700 (PDT)
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: New Alternator--Vendor Help

Dustin did just that.
I was assisting Dustin's installation and was the one who left a message on
Hervey's answering service from Dustin's garage. Hervey called Dustin back and
explained how to tighten down the alternator. All is now well with the help of
the vendor.

Shannon Y
16506

-------------


Message: 24
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2004 17:24:03 -0500
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: New Alternator

Funny my lights do not dim with my D110 from John Hervey nor did i have 
any of these mounting problems you all have that posted. I hope you 
read the instructions that came with the alternator first.

First thing to do is clean all ground connections, battery connections 
and your dimming should go away. Second thing to do is when you have a 
problem with any part you bought from any vendor you should ask the 
vendor you bought it from first before posting to the list because they 
are the one to ask when you have a problem with their product.

Mark V



On Thursday, July 29, 2004, at 11:37  AM, Dustin Dewey wrote:

> Hey Mike.
> I had a heck of a time when I installed my 140 hervey alt.

>>>snip<<<

 this is caused by the 3 bolt design of the alt. what 
> you
> have to do is take the alt back off the car, and tighten the bolts in 
> a way
> that when the best pulls on the pully, that it doesnt put pressure on 
> one
> side of the alt. so when you tighten the alt, make sure you have even
> pressure on all the lugs. what I had to do was tighten 2 lugs really 
> tight,
> and leave one on the not so tight side, so when the best was tightened 
> up,
> it pulled the loose one back into place.
> it seemed like the blades on the inside were catching before I did all 
> this,
> but after I reworked the bolts, it worked out fine. it just takes a 
> lot of
> fine tuneing.

>>>snip<<<

>
> Dustin
> 006746


		
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Message: 11
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2004 09:14:54 -0400
From: "Cecil Longwisch" <dmc1982_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: RE: Heatgun + Frame = Bye Bye Epoxy

Be sure and use a proper chemical rated mask, not a particle mask, when 
stripping epoxy paint with heat.
There is a significant health risk potential when stripping paint this way 
but if you take the proper precautions this can be avoided.



Cceil Longwisch
#10663


>From: "Matt" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Heatgun + Frame = Bye  Bye Epoxy
>Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2004 23:57:45 -0000
>
>WOW!  A heatgun really does wonders removing the epoxy from the
>frame.  Previously I had been using a drill with a wire brush
>attachment but this is WAY better.  Yes, you still have to scrape,
>but it comes off like warm butter.  It takes about 10 seconds with
>the gun to warm the area sufficiently to start scraping but after
>it's hot, moving to an adjacent area is very easy.
>
>I did also try the propane torch.  Having something like that in my
>hand was too much for my pyromaniac instinct though, and I couldn't
>help but flame the hell out of the epoxy to the point where it was
>bubbling black.  The heatgun, however, is a perfect restraint and is
>awesome for removing the epoxy.  Incidentally, is it usual to find
>small light rust spots underneath perfectly good, non-cracked, non-
>chipped epoxy?
>
>Matt
>#1604
>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2004 09:21:47 -0400
From: "Dom Diaz" <dom_diaz_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Some Questions For The Group

Mike-Welcome to the group, if you think this list is awesome you should try 
attending the shows. It was incredible, my wife and I had a pulley seize and 
the likes of Marty Meier and several other descended on the car to repair it 
as soon as I arrived (and I had just met them). Locally, I too could not 
have asked for a better support group of people including Dave Stragand, Dan 
Plakosh, and Jeff Porter (Listed in order of impotance, sorry 
Jeff..:)-kidding. Anyway, we have a few tech sessions a year and get some 
great stuff accomplished at them.

Now on to your problems (I had most of the same ones when I first got mine)

A. I had this one, turned out to be the washer motor, which is a cheap part 
but I thought it was a hassle to replace. Could also be a leak in the line 
or it pinching somewhere (be carefull when you put it all back together not 
to pinch that line). Do you hear the motor whine when you try to use them?

B. I thought disc brakes usually squeal because they are either old or that 
adhesive/ spray stuff was not applied to them upon installation? Since you 
just had them replaced I would think it was the latter. The front ones are 
easy to remove and spray, I think the stuff prevents movent of the pad 
inside the caliper?

C. You said the car starts 50% percent of the time? I'm curious, does it 
always seem to start when cold? Mine was like that. Thankfully, I have Dave 
here to test parts out on the issue (he also has a fuel pressure gauge) and 
Dan to help replace the accumulator (ok, all I did was watch) which helps 
keep pressure in the system after shutdown to prevent vapor lock. That 
resolved the issue. You could also jumper the fuel pump in the relay 
compartment to make sure it is working when it does not start, I also had a 
bad ground for that, that was giving me an intermittent connection.

D. Weird, I have no idea about that.

Again, Welcome to the group.

Dom Diaz

>From: "Michael & Denise" <luckeys71_at_dml_cox.net>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
>Subject: [DML] Some Questions For The Group
>Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2004 21:12:39 -0400
>
>First let me say that this newsgroup is awesome!  The kind of support and 
>friendliness exhibited here has helped ease some of my apprehension about 
>working on a DeLorean.  That being said, I have a few more questions I'm 
>hoping the group can help me with:
>a) My windshield wipers work but the washer doesn't-I'm thinking that most 
>likely the washer motor has gone out or should I check for something else 
>first?
>b) I just had all of the brake disc pads replaced but the front brakes tend 
>to squeak while braking.  Any ideas what could be causing the noise?
>c) About 50% of the time the car starts with no problem but the other 50% 
>it tries to turn over but just doesn't quite make it.  I replaced the cold 
>start valve but the problem still persists.  The only way I can get it 
>started when this happens is to use starting fluid which I hate to do since 
>I figured it can't be at all good for the engine.  I definitely need a tune 
>up as I have had the car for 2 months and haven't replaced any of the plugs 
>or wires yet.  Any other suggestions as to what may be causing my starting 
>issue?
>d) According to the VIN list my car #3760 had a grey interior but it is 
>most certainly black and I have a hard time believing that it was entirely 
>replaced somewhere along the way.  Do errors happen in the list or is my 
>black interior actually grey?
>Thanks again to all of the responses and support I have received-you 
>definitely won't find this kind of camaraderie in many newsgroups nowadays!
>Mike
>#3760
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>

_________________________________________________________________
Discover the best of the best at MSN Luxury Living. http://lexus.msn.com/




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2004 14:30:18 -0000
From: "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Some Questions For The Group

> a) My windshield wipers work but the washer doesn't-I'm thinking 
that most likely the washer motor has gone out or should I check for 
something else first? 


More than likely it's the pump.  Not much else between the pump, 
filler bottle and wipers.  Could be the tiny hose is clogged.


> b) I just had all of the brake disc pads replaced but the front 
brakes tend to squeak while braking.  Any ideas what could be causing 
the noise?


If you can see a refelction of your hand on your rotors, then they 
are glazed.  You can have them turned for about $20, but you may also 
have some luck sanding them with a fine flapper wheel.


> c) About 50% of the time the car starts with no problem but the 
other 50% it tries to turn over but just doesn't quite make it.  I 
replaced the cold start valve but the problem still persists.  The 
only way I can get it started when this happens is to use starting 
fluid which I hate to do since I figured it can't be at all good for 
the engine.  I definitely need a tune up as I have had the car for 2 
months and haven't replaced any of the plugs or wires yet.  Any other 
suggestions as to what may be causing my starting issue?


Check to see if your fuel pump has the wires secured on the contacts 
and check the ground wires too for dirt.  When you turn the key, you 
should hear the frequency valve buzzing behind you and the fuel pump 
humming in front of you before you start the engine.  Sometimes it 
can be an electrical issue so you may want to look into that.

Johnny 
5518




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2004 14:41:34 -0000
From: "austinbrumley" <austinbrumley_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Frame+Epoxy

I have a quick question. When i bought my car off of Ebay it showed 
up with chipping epoxy on the rear brace under the engine. I had to 
pull the motor from the car anyway so i decided to fix that while the 
motor was out. Here's what i did, I took a prpane torch & heated the 
affected epoxy and scraped it off. After that i sanded it to clean 
bare metal then painted it with a rust preventing primer. After that 
i put on a coat of aluminum colered engine paint. It looks great do 
you think it is a sufficent fix for now?




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2004 13:19:33 -0400
From: "Dom Diaz" <dom_diaz_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Turbo question (DeLo Intake/Exhaust)

This is just a technology question but I thought having too little 
restriction on the exhaust may gain HP but will cause you too lose torque? 
Am I COMPLETELY wrong or did I not once learn that?

Can I get an amen? Excuse my rambling, must be the crack pipe(s). Still, I 
would like to hear thoughts on this.

Dom


>From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Re: Turbo question (DeLo Intake/Exhaust)
>Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2004 05:25:25 -0000
>
>Biggest restriction isn't on the intake, but exhaust side. Intake
>plumbing averages 2" or so PER BANK. Exhaust plumbing ultimately
>reaches 1 5/8" for BOTH BANKS. Thats a 60% reduction in size!
>
>Bill Robertson
>#5939
>
> >--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Joseph Molino" <foxmul_at_dml_b...> wrote:
> >
> > will it hurt our engines? also who sells the air intake mod to fit a
>k&N air
> > filter setup.  it looks like a 3 inch tube like a cold air system and
> > replaces our box system.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Joseph M
> > vin 2850
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>

_________________________________________________________________
Discover the best of the best at MSN Luxury Living. http://lexus.msn.com/




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2004 16:46:46 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Frame+Epoxy

Did you do anything on the inside of that same part? It's hollow and 
open to atmosphere/water there too. Depending on how hot you got it, 
you may have loosened the epoxy on the inside. 

Dave S

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "austinbrumley" <austinbrumley_at_dml_d...> 
wrote:
> I have a quick question. When i bought my car off of Ebay it showed 
> up with chipping epoxy on the rear brace under the engine. I had to 
> pull the motor from the car anyway so i decided to fix that while 
the 
> motor was out. Here's what i did, I took a prpane torch & heated




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2004 10:13:24 -0700
From: "Gary Hull" <Specialty_at_dml_IN2TIME.com>
Subject: RE: Fan fix Relay......Question which one???

> Ken #02700 Said:
> Always call the people who repair DeLoreans not just talking
> about them, like (Rob Grady) and (Don Steigler)or (Houston)
> it doesn't cost anything but a phone call and these people
> have real shops and people to help you.

I'm out of lurk-mode because I'm concerned about a comment I am hearing more
frequently, and which I feel does a great disservice to a lot of
highly-respected people in the DeLorean community.

The implication (whether intentional or not) seems to be that if a person
doesn't own a "real" DeLorean repair shop, their knowledge and opinions
about DeLorean parts and service are somehow flawed (i.e. they are "just
talking about [DeLoreans]").

I don't mean to trivialize the knowledge gained by owning an automotive
repair shop, and I do value their opinions.  However just because a part
vendor (with or without a repair shop) recommends a part that they are
familiar with, trust, (and hopefully make a good profit on), that doesn't
necessarily make other people's parts, knowledge, or opinions irrelevant.

Personally, I would like to thank all of those who have provided me with
parts, knowledge, and opinions (both on the DML and off-list). You've helped
me to form my own opinions and to make informed decisions. 

Thanks!

Gary
IN2TIME




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2004 13:26:12 -0400
From: "Dom Diaz" <dom_diaz_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Some Questions For The Group

What a spelling ERROR! Those guys are gonna KILL me! Of course I meant 
IMPORTANCE. I wouldn't know about anything else. That post will go down in 
infamy, no pun intended.

Dom


>From: "Dom Diaz" <dom_diaz_at_dml_hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: RE: [DML] Some Questions For The Group
>Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2004 09:21:47 -0400
>
>Mike-Welcome to the group, if you think this list is awesome you should try
>attending the shows. It was incredible, my wife and I had a pulley seize 
>and
>the likes of Marty Meier and several other descended on the car to repair 
>it
>as soon as I arrived (and I had just met them). Locally, I too could not
>have asked for a better support group of people including Dave Stragand, 
>Dan
>Plakosh, and Jeff Porter (Listed in order of impotance, sorry
>Jeff..:)-kidding. Anyway, we have a few tech sessions a year and get some
>great stuff accomplished at them.



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2004 17:40:55 -0000
From: "Matt" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Re: Heatgun + Frame = Bye Bye Epoxy

Could you explain this?  It seemed to me that since I was just 
softening the epoxy that I shouldn't be exposed to anything.  I have 
not been wearing any mask, and I kinda like the smell :)  

Matt
#1604

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Cecil Longwisch" <dmc1982_at_dml_m...> 
wrote:
> Be sure and use a proper chemical rated mask, not a particle mask, 
when 
> stripping epoxy paint with heat.
> There is a significant health risk potential when stripping paint 
this way 
> but if you take the proper precautions this can be avoided.
> 
> 
> 
> Cceil Longwisch
> #10663
>




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2004 17:46:14 -0000
From: "Matt" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Re: Frame+Epoxy

Sounds fine to me.  The only time I think you may have a problem is 
if you drive over some gravel and it chips or cracks.  Paint has 
poor impact resistance.  
Talking about impact resistence, I think I might try spot-powder-
coating today with my new heat gun and see if it works out.  It just 
might, providing I don't blow the powder around.  If I do, it might 
explode, and then I will never know if you can powder coat with a 
heat gun, because I will be blown up.  :-P

Matt
#1604

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "austinbrumley" <austinbrumley_at_dml_d...> 
wrote:
> I have a quick question. When i bought my car off of Ebay it 
showed 
> up with chipping epoxy on the rear brace under the engine. I had 
to 
> pull the motor from the car anyway so i decided to fix that while 
the 
> motor was out. Here's what i did, I took a prpane torch & heated 
the 
> affected epoxy and scraped it off. After that i sanded it to clean 
> bare metal then painted it with a rust preventing primer. After 
that 
> i put on a coat of aluminum colered engine paint. It looks great 
do 
> you think it is a sufficent fix for now?




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 21
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2004 17:55:57 -0000
From: "Matt" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Re: Frame+Epoxy

Dave, you mentioned this in my post too.  MY question is, how comes 
we can be clever and fill our whole CV boots with grease, but no one 
has ever thought to fill the inside of the frame with say...motor 
oil?  phosphoric acid?  NAVAL JELLY???  Would this work in 
preserving the frame from the inside?  The holes that would make it 
leak could be sealed.  At least in the box sections of the frame it 
might be worthwhile, don't you think?  Albeit, a little more weight.

Matt
#1604

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Did you do anything on the inside of that same part? It's hollow 
and 
> open to atmosphere/water there too. Depending on how hot you got 
it, 
> you may have loosened the epoxy on the inside. 
> 
> Dave S
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "austinbrumley" 
<austinbrumley_at_dml_d...> 
> wrote:
> > I have a quick question. When i bought my car off of Ebay it 
showed 
> > up with chipping epoxy on the rear brace under the engine. I had 
to 
> > pull the motor from the car anyway so i decided to fix that 
while 
> the 
> > motor was out. Here's what i did, I took a prpane torch & heated




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 22
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2004 18:56:51 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: Re: Frame+Epoxy

Weight and expense are the main reasons.  It's one thing to
weld up a box section, it's another to seal it to hold a 
fluid.  And you can't plug up all the holes because they 
are there so you can access fasteners, run wires, shifters,
etc.   

--
Mike


-------------- Original message from "Matt" : -------------- 

> Dave, you mentioned this in my post too. MY question is, how comes 
> we can be clever and fill our whole CV boots with grease, but no one 
> has ever thought to fill the inside of the frame with say...motor 
> oil? phosphoric acid? NAVAL JELLY??? Would this work in 
> preserving the frame from the inside? The holes that would make it 
> leak could be sealed. At least in the box sections of the frame it 
> might be worthwhile, don't you think? Albeit, a little more weight. 
> 
> Matt 
> #1604 
> 



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 23
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2004 15:43:26 -0400
From: "Cecil Longwisch" <dmc1982_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Heatgun + Frame = Bye Bye Epoxy

If you like the smell it may be too late for you!

The heat will vaorize not only organic compounds but inorganic ones such as 
lead or zinc. I doubt if our frame has lead in the paint but it actually 
could especially being made in a differnt country without the health and 
safety laws of today. Lead paint is still used in some industrial 
applications.The reason you would wear a mask for removal with heat is the 
same reason you would wear one if you were spraying it on.


Cecil Longwich
#10663







>From: "Matt" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Re: Heatgun + Frame = Bye Bye Epoxy
>Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2004 17:40:55 -0000
>
>Could you explain this?  It seemed to me that since I was just
>softening the epoxy that I shouldn't be exposed to anything.  I have
>not been wearing any mask, and I kinda like the smell :)
>
>Matt
>#1604
>
>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Cecil Longwisch" <dmc1982_at_dml_m...>
>wrote:
> > Be sure and use a proper chemical rated mask, not a particle mask,
>when
> > stripping epoxy paint with heat.
> > There is a significant health risk potential when stripping paint
>this way
> > but if you take the proper precautions this can be avoided.
> >
> >
> >
> > Cceil Longwisch
> > #10663
> >
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 24
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2004 19:46:42 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Gaining HP/Losing Torque

Torque versus Horsepower is a common debate in another DeLorean
newsgroup. 

My contention: since Torque is one of the variables required to
calculate HP, yet torque itself can be measured independently of any
other variable, the entire debate is framed incorrectly.

Others feel differently, and argue their perspective just as strongly.

The discussions can become "spirited", to say the least.

Contact me off List (brobertson(at)caolina.net) and I'll give you that
newsgroup's URL.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dom Diaz" <dom_diaz_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> This is just a technology question but I thought having too little 
> restriction on the exhaust may gain HP but will cause you too lose
torque? 
> Am I COMPLETELY wrong or did I not once learn that?
> 
> Can I get an amen? Excuse my rambling, must be the crack pipe(s).
Still, I 
> would like to hear thoughts on this.
> 
> Dom
> 





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 25
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2004 20:01:56 -0000
From: "austinbrumley" <austinbrumley_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: Frame+Epoxy

Actually now that you mention it i did notice light rust inside that 
box section. How do you fix that? Other owners have to be going 
through the same thing. Thanks



Austin
#16162




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


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