From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2148
Date: Sunday, August 01, 2004 8:23 PM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: The new no go situation
From: PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com

2. Re: New Owner #1790 w/mods?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

3. Re: The new no go situation
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

4. RE: New Owner #1790 w/mods?
From: "Scott McMullan" <mcmullas_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>

5. Re: Vandalism to My D
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>

6. Modified torsion bar adjustment
From: "Matt" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

7. Re: Shock length
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

8. Re: Re: New Owner #1790 w/mods?
From: motarhedd_at_dml_aol.com

9. Re: Photos Of PILOT25 Uploaded
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>

10. Re: Frame+Epoxy
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

11. Re: Modified torsion bar adjustment
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

12. Re: lights
From: "Hank" <henry_at_dml_ix.netcom.com>

13. Re: Modified torsion bar adjustment
From: Peter Lucas <lucas_at_dml_Maya.com>

14. Oil Plug
From: "Scott McMullan" <mcmullas_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>

15. Re: Modified torsion bar adjustment
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

16. Re: New Owner #1790 w/mods?
From: motarhedd_at_dml_aol.com

17. Re: Modified torsion bar adjustment
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>

18. Covercraft DeLorean Cover Pics Uploaded
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

19. Re: Photos Of PILOT25 Uploaded
From: "alistairmccann" <alistairmccann_at_dml_yahoo.com>

20. Re: Oil Plug
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

21. water pump
From: nicholden_at_dml_yahoo.com

22. Re: Modified torsion bar adjustment
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

23. Re: Covercraft DeLorean Cover Pics Uploaded
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

24. Re: Oil Plug
From: "Cecil Longwisch" <dmc1982_at_dml_msn.com>

25. Head Light Switch
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 31 Jul 2004 23:11:25 EDT
From: PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: The new no go situation

The same thing happened to me for a while, and I later found my door lights 
were staying on when the door was shut. This would make by battery die after a 
few cranks the next morning.   Just my suggestion, maybe you already checked 
this.   Once I put vaccum caps on the switches all went well.   Also check to 
make sure the engine light is off too, that also stayed on for me for a while 
until I tweaked things.   Oh yea, my High Beam headlight fuse totally melted on 
me as well.   I added in a separate fuse holder for it and hid it underneath 
the fuse box.   

Patrick
1880


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 01 Aug 2004 03:46:46 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: New Owner #1790 w/mods?

Did you buy this car from Steve? Where are you located? I heard of a
Delorean just recently sold in Fort Lee, New Jersey by a guy in the
military, is this the one?
David Teite;baum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, motarhedd_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Hello folks!
> 
> i've just bought my first Delorean, i've been working on this deal
for the past month and expect to have my car on monday.
> it looks a bit rough and could use some work but i finally have one.
i'm taking a hit on the financing but its a price im willing to
pay...21% interest thanks to my own bad credit
> :(
> here are some pics from their web site
> http://www.pjsautoworld.com/1980cars/1981deloreanold.html
> 
> it doesnt show the electrical modifications made to it, again
something that will have to be dealt with. its previous owner, an
engineer that worked on military(?) jet engines, reworked the
electrical wiring and installed what looks like a aircraft type of
fuse box between the seats on the rear section of the console. i will
get to posting pictures to the list to see what kind of
comments/opinnons i can get about it. very gaudy looking i must say.
> 
> 
> btw, the check out the other delorean on their site, the red one
vin# 7171 the dealer's story is that it came from JDZ's brother's
caddie dealership w/ its paint 6500 miles on speedo.
> 
> Thanks,
> Russell N.
> vin#1790




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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 01 Aug 2004 03:53:22 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: The new no go situation

Running a battery all the way down to zero takes a lot of life out of
it. Never fully recharging it and keeping it low takes more life out.
Slowly recharge it and have it load tested. If it is any good then
continue using it but even though it is only a couple of months old it
could be bad, especally if it was too small to begin with. Clean all
the "big" connections on the battery, starter, alternator, and frame.
One of the reasons you melted things is that when you lower the
voltage you increase the amps, which is what happened with the low
battery. Add a master switch so you can shut the battery off when you
are not using the car. Make sure the courtesy door lights go out when
the doors are closed, you might be missing the rubber tips on the door
switches.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> Today I got into my car to find after about 10 slow cranks my battery
> died out. I had to get a jump and it took quite a while and numerous
> tries to get it fired up. So I got the car to my other home where my
> tools are, I took out the battery and put it on the charger, it was
> next to empty. I just replaced the alternator last year with a 150
> amp, and the batter was replaced in April. The battery has died a few
> times and recharged using only alternator power once the car was
> running, I've never charged it on the charger until today. Also while
> inspecting my fuses, my 20amp #7-fuel pump fuse was melted down on





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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 1 Aug 2004 00:25:58 -0400
From: "Scott McMullan" <mcmullas_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>
Subject: RE: New Owner #1790 w/mods?


> http://www.pjsautoworld.com/1980cars/1981deloreanold.html

The car appears to be misrepresented; the text says it's a 5-speed, but the
photo shows an auto.

Good luck with it!

Do you know how much they wanted for the painted one?




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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 01 Aug 2004 05:21:23 -0000
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Vandalism to My D

Always Lock the doors and roll up the windows, TRUST NOONE!!

No one respects what they don't have.

Joe





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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 01 Aug 2004 05:26:45 -0000
From: "Matt" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Modified torsion bar adjustment

I've talked to Dave Swingle about this in the past, but I wanted to 
throw it out there 1 more time just to hear more opinions before I 
adjust my torsion bars.
I'd like opinions on this procedure:

1.  T-panel is removed
2.  Louvers are removed
3.  Engine & tranny are removed
4.  Door to be adjusted is fully open
5.  Attach 3/8" allen socket to 1/2" drive ratchet
6.  Place ratchet shaft in 4' steel pipe
7.  Hold tension on the bar while my friend, standing in the empty 
engine bay, holds the allen socket in place, and removes the 13mm 
bolts.

Does this sound OK?  I really don't understand the point of making 
the wooden brace and having this big long horizontal assembly of 
extensions, when it seems removing the louvers takes care of that 
requirement.  

thanks,

Matt
#1604





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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 01 Aug 2004 05:51:21 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: Shock length

Nick - It doesn't appear that you have your answer yet, so I went 
out to the warehouse and measured an NOS front shock that we have in 
stock.  The length from the very end of the threads (not counting 
the stem that sticks up above the threads) to the center of the 
bushing bore at the bottom is 14.75".  This is with the shock 
totally relaxed, and sitting on the shelf.  I hope this helps.  Let 
us know what you come up with.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, nicholden_at_dml_y... wrote:
> Hi, Does anyone have an original shock that they could measure the 
> length of for me please? (top of thread to centre of mounting 
hole) 
> I am purchasing some new shocks here in australia and the company 
> can limit the travel to what ever i want. At the moment the ones 
in 
> there (after market)allow the lower suspention arms to hit the 
> frame. Thankyou in advance Nick 10927- sydney




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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 01 Aug 2004 04:00:08 -0400
From: motarhedd_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: New Owner #1790 w/mods?

Yes, the original belts are still there and will be promptly replaced.

Thanks,
Russell N.
vin#1790


In a message dated 7/31/2004 9:52:49 PM Eastern Daylight Time, "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net> writes:

>My first advise to you is to remount the DeLorean seat belts back 
>into the car before you drive it on the road for your own safety. 
>That 4-point harness doesn't look like it was mounted appropriately. 
>It's hard to tell from this photograph, but it appears that the 
>shoulder restraints have been mounted to the seat rail bolts. Aside 
>from this not bein a reinforced area to hold the belt tension in the 
>event of a collision, you could end up with some serious spinal 
>damage. 2 & 3 point harnesses hold you back, flush against the seat. 
>When belts are looped over you shoulders and down, they can pull down 
>on you, and compress the discs in your spine. A collision that you 
>could have walked away from, could otherwise cause you some serious 
>back injuries with this set up.
>
>-Robert
>vin 6585 "X"




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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 01 Aug 2004 08:08:10 -0000
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Photos Of PILOT25 Uploaded

Alistair,

Did you have any problems getting that car registered? I remember 
you were talking about possible registration problems since it 
doesn't have a VIN number. Did you manage to get around that issue?

Thanks for the pictures, I didn't know they had 2 tone interiors on 
the pilot cars as tests for other interior colors. Never knew they 
had grey as a possible option even before production started.

How far ahead is this car when compared to like Vin 500? I really 
have no knowledge of the Pilot Cars. Really neat story behind them, 
your lucky to have one as I thought most were destroyed. Only wonder 
how the previous owner kept it from being dismantled?

Later,

Joe O'Brien

2524 & 16634




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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 1 Aug 2004 12:11:48 +0200
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: Re: Frame+Epoxy


Have you guys never heared of Mike Sander's anti-corrosion stuff ?

http://mike.british-cars.de/Korrosionsschutzfett.htm

Sorry, it's in german but I guess by googling a litle bit
you will find a page in english, too.

oh, here it is:
http://mike.british-cars.de/english.htm


All the boxed sections of my car where water can enter are filled 
with that stuff. Especially the tank compartment, the front box
behind the steering rack and of course the roof section.

Reards,

Elvis & 6548


Dave, you mentioned this in my post too.  MY question is, how comes 
we can be clever and fill our whole CV boots with grease, but no one 
has ever thought to fill the inside of the frame with say...motor 
oil?  phosphoric acid?  NAVAL JELLY???  Would this work in 
preserving the frame from the inside?  The holes that would make it 
leak could be sealed.  At least in the box sections of the frame it 
might be worthwhile, don't you think?  Albeit, a little more weight.

Matt
#1604




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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 1 Aug 2004 08:20:24 -0500
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Modified torsion bar adjustment

Pullling the engine to adjust the torsion bars is pretty extreme. . . . ;-)

Since you already have most of the car apart, the way you want to do it is
fine. Just make sure that the allen bit is completely seated in the torsion
bar. Also have the door held open with a board/rod of some sort, otherwise
you'll be carrying all the wieght of the door (as well as the torsion bar
tension) on the adjusting assembly (and your arms).

I would NOT use a ratchet to pull on the torsion bar - use something that's
guaranteed not to slip, i.e. a breaker-bar.

You are right, the main reason to use the wood thing and the extension bars
is to avoid removing the louver. When you're in a hurry removing the louver
is a bit of a pain, especially getting it adjusted right when you put it
back together. You also will find that having the breaker bar up close to
the window makes getting the 13mm screws in and out more difficult just
because you and your friend need to be in about the same place., as well as
the breaker bar and the 13 mm tool.

Dave

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Matt" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 01, 2004 12:26 AM
Subject: Modified torsion bar adjustment


I've talked to Dave Swingle about this in the past, but I wanted to
throw it out there 1 more time just to hear more opinions before I
adjust my torsion bars.
I'd like opinions on this procedure:

1.  T-panel is removed
2.  Louvers are removed
3.  Engine & tranny are removed
4.  Door to be adjusted is fully open
5.  Attach 3/8" allen socket to 1/2" drive ratchet
6.  Place ratchet shaft in 4' steel pipe
7.  Hold tension on the bar while my friend, standing in the empty
engine bay, holds the allen socket in place, and removes the 13mm
bolts.

Does this sound OK?  I really don't understand the point of making
the wooden brace and having this big long horizontal assembly of
extensions, when it seems removing the louvers takes care of that
requirement.




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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 1 Aug 2004 11:02:17 -0400
From: "Hank" <henry_at_dml_ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: lights

>>To my understanding, the dash/panel bulbs aren't readily available from auto parts stores.
 
The dash/panel bulbs are pretty easy to find - search for blub #3898. I found them here 
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/images/lamps/3898.jpg  pretty cheaply.  I know John Hervey also sells them at a pretty reasonable cost.

-Hank  #1619



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Message: 13
Date: Sun, 1 Aug 2004 12:53:48 -0400
From: Peter Lucas <lucas_at_dml_Maya.com>
Subject: Re: Modified torsion bar adjustment

On Aug 1, 2004, at 1:26 AM, Matt wrote:

>  I really don't understand the point of making
> the wooden brace and having this big long horizontal assembly of
> extensions, when it seems removing the louvers takes care of that
> requirement.
>

I agree that removing the louvers is a better choice than using a very 
long extension (I've done it both ways), but IMO the wooden brace (with 
a shorter extension) is still the best way to go. Having the stability 
that a solid anchor provides makes this procedure much easier and 
safer, especially if things go poorly.

--Pete Lucas
   VIN #06703





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Message: 14
Date: Sun, 1 Aug 2004 12:55:23 -0400
From: "Scott McMullan" <mcmullas_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>
Subject: Oil Plug


It looks like my oil plug has been mishandled a bit too often, and I'm
looking to replace it.

I know several of the vendors sell replacement plugs, but I thought I
remembered reading that someone was selling one that was somehow "better" --
I don't remember who and I don't remember how it was better that a stock
part.

I couldn't find it in the archives, so I'm asking... anyone recall who might
be selling a "better" oil plug and why it might be better?

Thanks.




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Message: 15
Date: Sun, 01 Aug 2004 17:46:46 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Modified torsion bar adjustment

I agree with everything Dave has said. It is dangerous to use a
ratchet for this work. A breaker bar is much safer. The main purpose
of the wooden support is so the rear sunshade does not have to be
removed. Making the support is no big deal but the extension can be
expensive, you have to have a long one and you don't want to cheap out
on it and have one that can't take the load. Try to use a short (6")
extension if you have one so the person taking the bolts out has room
to work and move the anchor bracket. Again, using a ratchet is
dangerous, you are counting on one small piece of metal inside to keep
the ratchet from moving. If you hit a worn tooth or the dog is not
fully engaged onto a tooth the ratchet could let go while you have
your face and hands right by the anchor bracket. Slip a piece of
rubber in between the rear hinge and the torsion bar so they cannot
rub. Place the door prop from the door sill to the bottom of the open
door, not from the floor. If the car should move the prop would come
out and the door would slam shut.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Pullling the engine to adjust the torsion bars is pretty extreme. .
. . ;-)
> 
> Since you already have most of the car apart, the way you want to do
it is
> fine. Just make sure that the allen bit is completely seated in the
torsion
> bar. Also have the door held open with a board/rod of some sort,
otherwise
> you'll be carrying all the wieght of the door (as well as the
torsion bar





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Message: 16
Date: Sun, 01 Aug 2004 14:38:52 -0400
From: motarhedd_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: New Owner #1790 w/mods?

I live in Jacksonville, Florida. The car was/is being purchased from a Classic/Hotrods dealer in Clearwater, FL. I would love to meet other owners in my area/state.

I would love to know more about the history of #1790. i got a CARFAX after the deal went through which told me basically nothing. then i went through NADA's version of the "carfax" and found that its actual milage was over 113k. after that inital let down i figured it was a good sign that it would be pretty reliable since it appeared to have been taken decent care of.

The Red DMC vin#7171 is $22,500. Pretty cherry if you ask me, and i had a good look at it. 6,500 Original miles, on Original tires. there was a deal working on it at the time i was talking to them.

Thanks,
Russell N.
vin#1790

In a message dated 7/31/2004 11:46:46 PM Eastern Daylight Time, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net> writes:

>Did you buy this car from Steve? Where are you located? I heard of a
>Delorean just recently sold in Fort Lee, New Jersey by a guy in the
>military, is this the one?
>David Teite;baum
>vin 10757




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Message: 17
Date: Sun, 01 Aug 2004 19:25:30 -0000
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Modified torsion bar adjustment

Unless you have removed the rear window also, the wooden brace and 
extensions help a great deal to keep from slipping with just a 
breaker bar and busting out the rear window. Use the wooden brace, 
along with the socket extensions, when we do adjustments for the 
groups here, we also duct tape the sockets to ensure no slippage. 
And we put a pipe on the handle of the breaker bar to make it easy. 
That way you ensure a nice safe reliable way to adjust the doors. 
And there is minimal to no chance of doing any damage. But it is you 
car, so do as you wish, in a hurry or not. But taking your time and 
doing it safe & correct is the safest bet. Your car will thank you 
for it.

Joe O'Brien

2524 & 16634






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Message: 18
Date: Sun, 01 Aug 2004 03:16:28 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Covercraft DeLorean Cover Pics Uploaded

Shooting up a roll of film today, I took some pics of Covercraft's
custom cut DeLorean car cover. Are uploaded to #5939's photo album. At
one time Dave Stragand (Vixen) was a distributor for Covercraft.
Otherwise, JC Whitney sells them. Notice how much better it fits than
the adjacent "custom cut" Lincoln covers!

Bill Robertson
#5939





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Message: 19
Date: Sun, 01 Aug 2004 20:29:09 -0000
From: "alistairmccann" <alistairmccann_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Photos Of PILOT25 Uploaded

HI all

I managed to find the original licence book that the owner had lost.

The car was originaly owned by Delorean and has Delorean Motor 
Company as the first owner of the car!! This made the job of getting 
the car registered no problem as the car still had its original 
registration plates RIA 7124 which can be seen in the "Gold 
Portfolio" book.  I had to get the car looked at by the car tax 
people but they had no problem with it as it had already been taxed 
before (It had not been taxed since 1985 by the way!!).

I managed to find a few bits of info on the car from various poeple 
that either worked on the car or from archives.

1.)  The car was built about 8-9 months before vin#500 and used by 
the factory to promote the car round Ireland, it the car used in the 
promotional photos at the Giants Causeway and at the factory in 
Dunmurry.

2.)  The car originaly had the black interior, but since the car sat 
in the fastory during its entire life it was fitted out with all the 
latest modifications before they were used on the production cars.  
My car has one of the only on piece moulded engine covers (ie it has 
no metal inserts - its one piece moulded plastic) that I have ever 
seen.

3.)  When the car was put up for auction in 83' it was given a new 
engine and a new grey interior but not a new dash, it stayed black 
along with the binacle.  It was then sold to the person I bought the 
car from and is listed in the auction portfolio as the last delorean 
ever sold in Northern Ireland from the Delorean Motor Company.

4.) The guy I bought it from had taken it home from the factory and 
locled it in his garage, he drove it exactly 5 times in 23 years and 
one day last year I just happened to find it!

Thats all I know so far.

Alistair McCann




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Message: 20
Date: Sun, 01 Aug 2004 20:57:56 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Oil Plug

I think what you are looking for is the "Magnetic" drain plug. It is
an improvement over the origional, stock plug in that it will catch
any metal that is magnetic helping the oil filter keep the motor
clean. You can also get one for the trans. Nice upgrade and not all
that expensive. Don't overtighten and check the threads in the pan.
Always try to use a new copper sealing ring whnever you remove the
plug. Most venders include it with the oil filter.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Scott McMullan" <mcmullas_at_dml_b...> wrote:
> 
> It looks like my oil plug has been mishandled a bit too often, and I'm
> looking to replace it.
> 
> I know several of the vendors sell replacement plugs, but I thought I
> remembered reading that someone was selling one that was somehow
"better" --
> I don't remember who and I don't remember how it was better that a stock
> part.
> 
> I couldn't find it in the archives, so I'm asking... anyone recall
who might
> be selling a "better" oil plug and why it might be better?
> 
> Thanks.




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Message: 21
Date: Sun, 01 Aug 2004 21:40:05 -0000
From: nicholden_at_dml_yahoo.com
Subject: water pump

Hi, does anyone know if the delorean water pump cross matches to 
anyother car? I am in Australia and it would save me the trouble and 
cost of shipping one from the states, I know the PRV was used in 
various cars of the same era but are the pumps exactly the same?

Thanks Nick 10927




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Message: 22
Date: Sun, 01 Aug 2004 23:36:46 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Modified torsion bar adjustment

It will still be somewhat unstable even with the louvers removed 
because the hole for the bar in my opinion is much larger than it 
needs to be. Further, the adjuster's ability to control the free 
movement is reduced because of the lack of stability (even standing 
in the engine compartment). Without some sort of support I wouldn't 
attempt it. I've done it once and it was merely grace that we got it 
back together without a disaster. Aligning the holes for the bolts 
on the anchor was almost impossible. Even with the correct tools 
aligning the holes is a bit of an art. The D I have now had the rear 
window broken out when I bought it by someone attempting to do the 
adjustment free hand.

Harold McElraft - 3354



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Matt" <supermatty_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> I've talked to Dave Swingle about this in the past, but I wanted 
to 
> throw it out there 1 more time just to hear more opinions before I 
> adjust my torsion bars.
> I'd like opinions on this procedure:
> 
> 1.  T-panel is removed
> 2.  Louvers are removed
> 3.  Engine & tranny are removed
> 4.  Door to be adjusted is fully open
> 5.  Attach 3/8" allen socket to 1/2" drive ratchet
> 6.  Place ratchet shaft in 4' steel pipe
> 7.  Hold tension on the bar while my friend, standing in the empty 
> engine bay, holds the allen socket in place, and removes the 13mm 
> bolts.
> 
> Does this sound OK?  I really don't understand the point of making 
> the wooden brace and having this big long horizontal assembly of 
> extensions, when it seems removing the louvers takes care of that 
> requirement.  
> 
> thanks,
> 
> Matt
> #1604




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Message: 23
Date: Sun, 1 Aug 2004 19:02:24 -0500
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Covercraft DeLorean Cover Pics Uploaded

I dont see any pictures except a small picture of a covered car but i 
cant see how well the cover fits and i didnt see any custom cut Lincoln 
covers.


Mark V


On Saturday, July 31, 2004, at 10:16  PM, content22207 wrote:

> Shooting up a roll of film today, I took some pics of Covercraft's
> custom cut DeLorean car cover. Are uploaded to #5939's photo album. At
> one time Dave Stragand (Vixen) was a distributor for Covercraft.
> Otherwise, JC Whitney sells them. Notice how much better it fits than
> the adjacent "custom cut" Lincoln covers!
>
> Bill Robertson
> #5939
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
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> www.dmcnews.com
>
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> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>




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Message: 24
Date: Sun, 1 Aug 2004 21:08:13 -0400
From: "Cecil Longwisch" <dmc1982_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Re: Oil Plug

John Hervey sells a replacement oil drain plug that takes a standard wrench. It is one of those things that after you do it you say why doesn't everyone do this and not have to fight that "special" drain plug.

Cecil Longwisch
#10663
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Scott McMullan<mailto:mcmullas_at_dml_bellatlantic.net> 
  To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com<mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com> 
  Sent: Sunday, August 01, 2004 12:55 PM
  Subject: [DML] Oil Plug



  It looks like my oil plug has been mishandled a bit too often, and I'm
  looking to replace it.

  I know several of the vendors sell replacement plugs, but I thought I
  remembered reading that someone was selling one that was somehow "better" --
  I don't remember who and I don't remember how it was better that a stock
  part.

  I couldn't find it in the archives, so I'm asking... anyone recall who might
  be selling a "better" oil plug and why it might be better?

  Thanks.




  To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
  moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com<mailto:moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

  For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com<http://www.dmcnews.com/>

  To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews> 
  Yahoo! Groups Links



   



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 25
Date: Mon, 02 Aug 2004 01:08:54 -0000
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: Head Light Switch

Group, 
As many of you know that the headlight switches are no longer 
available unless they come up on Ebay or through parted out cars.
If you still have a good one I now have a bypass relay kit that will 
take the current load off the switch and put it over to a 40amp 
relay. Comes with the instructions and no special tools will be 
needed.It's on the web site now under new products and under updates 
and modifications. $24.95.
John Hervey
 http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/New-Delorean-
Products.html




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