From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2149
Date: Monday, August 02, 2004 9:30 PM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. * Reminder/ Update - August Delorean Tech Session - Western PA - Pittsburgh RSVP
From: "dplakosh2" <dplakosh2_at_dml_yahoo.com>

2. Re: Re: New Owner #1790 w/mods?
From: "Cecil Longwisch" <dmc1982_at_dml_msn.com>

3. RE: Oil Plug
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

4. Ignition breakdown
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

5. A New Way to Bleed Brakes & Clutch
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

6. Rear View Mirror Removal
From: "EJ Chambers" <marmieej_at_dml_yahoo.com>

7. RE: A New Way to Bleed Brakes & Clutch
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>

8. 180mph speedo?
From: "James" <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>

9. Re: A New Way to Bleed Brakes & Clutch
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

10. Re: 3rd Brake Light Wiring
From: "lakelanier20" <derek4567_at_dml_hotmail.com>

11. last time here
From: Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com

12. Good news
From: "Jeff Phillips" <jeff.phillips_at_dml_keesler.af.mil>

13. Re: Re: Gaining HP/Losing Torque
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>

14. RE: A New Way to Bleed Brakes & Clutch
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>

15. Re: A New Way to Bleed Brakes & Clutch
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

16. Re: A New Way to Bleed Brakes & Clutch
From: "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_cox.net>

17. Re: A New Way to Bleed Brakes & Clutch
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

18. RE: Rear View Mirror Removal
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

19. RE: 180mph speedo?
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

20. Re: Rear View Mirror Removal
From: PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com

21. Re: Gaining HP/Losing Torque
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

22. Re: delorean door seals
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>

23. Speedometer
From: "jmt1970amc" <jmt1970amc_at_dml_yahoo.com>

24. Re: Heatgun + Frame = Bye Bye Epoxy
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>

25. Re: Ignition breakdown
From: "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade_at_dml_hotmail.com>





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 02 Aug 2004 01:10:36 -0000
From: "dplakosh2" <dplakosh2_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: * Reminder/ Update - August Delorean Tech Session - Western PA - Pittsburgh RSVP

Greetings,

It looks like Saturday August 7, 2004 is going to be a nice day for 
the Western PA - Tech Session. If you are planning on attending 
please e-mail us so we can plan appropriately. Also, please include 
in your e-mail any work that you plan to have done on your so we can 
ensure that the proper tools are available.  Based on the tentative 
responses received we should have even a better turn out as compared 
to to last tech session. If you need directions or would like to 
attend, please let us know and I will send you a local map, our 
address and phone number.



Hope to see you there!

Best regards,

Dan and Judy
(Vin 3872)



Original Announcement Below.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Greetings,


My wife and I will be hosting another Tech Session in Pittsburgh on 
August 7, 2004 starting at 9:00 AM until dusk. This is an excellent 
to opportunity to socialize with other D owners and get any needed 
work done on your car.

We have already talked with Dave Stragand and he said that he will be 
able to make it. We're easy to find just off the route 60 Hopewell 
exit about 7 min. from the Pittsburgh Airport. We have a 2 stall 
garage, loads of tools, a great techie (Dave of course), a large 
driveway, and use of the neighbors driveway as well. We hope to see 
all the great people we've met at the last tech sessions and 
hopefully a few new faces too! If your car is not ready to drive then 
just come and visit, we'd love to see you! We even have some room for 
anyone that wants to travel a bit and might want to spend the night.

We'll start off at 9a.m. (Coffee and pastries to open your eyes :-). 
Snacks along with beverages (including beer) during the day. Around 
1:00 PM we'll have a cookout for lunch and dinner cookout around 5:30 
PM, The hot tub will be open if you want to relax. Please e-mail me 
off-list to confirm your attendance, and perhaps any work you'd like 
some help with, and let me know if you need directions. Significant 
others are welcome, and encouraged..

Hope to see you there!


If we need to make a rain date I will do so the week the Tech Session.


Best regards,


Dan and Judy
(Vin 3872)


End Original Announcement Below.
----------------------------------------------------------------------




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Sun, 1 Aug 2004 21:14:25 -0400
From: "Cecil Longwisch" <dmc1982_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Re: Re: New Owner #1790 w/mods?

I am in Jax

I think this car owner was active on the list a year or so ago and did not endear himself to the members of the list as I recall. Some of his mods seemed good but he had nothing really good to say about DeLoreans or others on the list if this is the same car. 

We have a pretty good group that manages to make it to shows together. Most are from south of us in the Orlando area.
You can contact me off list below.


Cecil Longwisch
DMC1982 at msn.com
#10663
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: motarhedd_at_dml_aol.com<mailto:motarhedd_at_dml_aol.com> 
  To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com<mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com> 
  Sent: Sunday, August 01, 2004 2:38 PM
  Subject: [DML] Re: New Owner #1790 w/mods?


  I live in Jacksonville, Florida. The car was/is being purchased from a Classic/Hotrods dealer in Clearwater, FL. I would love to meet other owners in my area/state.

  I would love to know more about the history of #1790. i got a CARFAX after the deal went through which told me basically nothing. then i went through NADA's version of the "carfax" and found that its actual milage was over 113k. after that inital let down i figured it was a good sign that it would be pretty reliable since it appeared to have been taken decent care of.

  The Red DMC vin#7171 is $22,500. Pretty cherry if you ask me, and i had a good look at it. 6,500 Original miles, on Original tires. there was a deal working on it at the time i was talking to them.

  Thanks,
  Russell N.
  vin#1790

  In a message dated 7/31/2004 11:46:46 PM Eastern Daylight Time, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net<mailto:jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>> writes:

  >Did you buy this car from Steve? Where are you located? I heard of a
  >Delorean just recently sold in Fort Lee, New Jersey by a guy in the
  >military, is this the one?
  >David Teite;baum
  >vin 10757




  To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
  moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com<mailto:moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

  For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com<http://www.dmcnews.com/>

  To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews> 
  Yahoo! Groups Links



   



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 1 Aug 2004 20:14:40 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Oil Plug

Scott, I have Stainless Steel and Brass on the site under engine.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/engine.html




-----Original Message-----
From: Scott McMullan [mailto:mcmullas_at_dml_bellatlantic.net]
Sent: Sunday, August 01, 2004 10:55 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Oil Plug



It looks like my oil plug has been mishandled a bit too often, and I'm
looking to replace it.

I know several of the vendors sell replacement plugs, but I thought I
remembered reading that someone was selling one that was somehow "better" --
I don't remember who and I don't remember how it was better that a stock
part.

I couldn't find it in the archives, so I'm asking... anyone recall who might
be selling a "better" oil plug and why it might be better?

Thanks.




To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Yahoo! Groups Links









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Mon, 02 Aug 2004 13:50:35 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Ignition breakdown

Symptoms:

Car stutters upon take off from a dead-stop, but smooths out once 
RPM's build up.

Ballast resistor resistance increases as it gets hot, from .5/.5 
to .8/.9 ohms.

Input voltage to the coil is around 7 volts. (A bit low, I think)

I checked the timing, which was around 9 degrees. Once set at 13, 
performance improved somewhat. The timing -appears- to advance 
properly. The manual gives 2 tables; one for vacuum advance and one 
for centrifugal advance. Advance appears correct for each method. I 
noted 3 steps up for vacuum, and with my timing light I verified 
them, and then I disconnected the vacuum line and checked centrifugal 
advance the same way. (Revving engine and noting advance vs. the 
manual information)

Cap, plugs, rotor, wires are new. The coil is the 23 year old, 
original blue Bosch coil. Here's the kicker: I have a NEW Bosch coil, 
and the car runs WORSE when I install it. Resistances across both 
coils measure correctly.

I'll replace the ballast resistor, but what other parts could be the 
cause? It almost seems as if the timing advance "sticks" and then 
catches up, but I've checked that. I know that people usually frown 
upon blaming the ECU's but I'm starting to wonder.

Thanks,

Rich A.
#5335




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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 02 Aug 2004 14:18:52 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: A New Way to Bleed Brakes & Clutch

I just saw this new product in Hemmings Motor News. It is called a
Speedbleeder. It is supposed to make bleeding brakes easy. It looks
like it may be very useful for the clutch on Deloreans. I have not
tried it yet. You can look it over at 

               www.speedbleeder.com

Let me know what you think.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757




________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 02 Aug 2004 15:13:59 -0000
From: "EJ Chambers" <marmieej_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Rear View Mirror Removal

Hello:

I am needing to replace my rear view mirror since the vast majority of
the housing has fallen off. Miracle the mirror piece is still there.
Anyways, I need to remove the old mirror from my windshield so I can
replace it with my new one.

What is the best way for removing the old mirror?

Thanks!
Ej
4475




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2004 10:17:21 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>
Subject: RE: A New Way to Bleed Brakes & Clutch

I bought one of those brake bleeders that Hervey is selling.  It worked
great when I did the brakes on my car.

http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/brake-bleeder.jpg

It should work just as well on the clutch.

I looked at the speed bleeders and thought they looked good, but it would
cost $35 plus shipping just to outfit the DeLorean.

I can use the Power bleeder on all of my vehicles.

Just another satisfied customer.

Scott Mueller 002981


-----Original Message-----
From: David Teitelbaum [mailto:jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net] 
Sent: Monday, August 02, 2004 9:19 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] A New Way to Bleed Brakes & Clutch


I just saw this new product in Hemmings Motor News. It is called a
Speedbleeder. It is supposed to make bleeding brakes easy. It looks like it
may be very useful for the clutch on Deloreans. I have not tried it yet. You
can look it over at 

               www.speedbleeder.com

Let me know what you think.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Mon, 02 Aug 2004 17:19:34 -0000
From: "James" <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: 180mph speedo?

I just uploaded a photo to the "photos" section of an obviously 
aftermarket 180mph speedo that was on a car I looked at over 
the weekend. Anyone ever see one of these before or know 
where it came from? I've seen 140's, 160's, 170's and of course 
the 85mph and 240kph but this was a new one for me.

James




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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 02 Aug 2004 17:32:33 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: A New Way to Bleed Brakes & Clutch

How do you plan on pressurizing the clutch reservoir with it? 

Dave S

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Scott Mueller" 
<scott.a.mueller_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> I bought one of those brake bleeders that Hervey is selling.  It 
worked
> great when I did the brakes on my car.
> 
> http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/brake-bleeder.jpg
> 
> It should work just as well on the clutch.
> 




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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 02 Aug 2004 16:14:52 -0000
From: "lakelanier20" <derek4567_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 3rd Brake Light Wiring

Sorry for my ignorance, but exactly what kind of fuse should I get to 
do this?  And is there a "standard" way to put that fuse inline in 
the wire going to the 3rd light?  I know, I know, I'm totally green.  
I just got my car 10 days ago. 

Thanks,
-Derek
VIN 5302


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> 
wrote:
> No matter which way you route the wires install a fuse at the point
> you tap off for the 3rd light. If the wire should get pinched and
> shorts to ground it will take out the fuse and not ALL of your brake
> lights!
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 





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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 02 Aug 2004 12:36:05 -0400
From: Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: last time here

Well.
My time on the DML is over...For now atleast.  I have been on the list since the late 90's and  have learned a great deal from all of you.  There is no way I could have owned a DMC without the list.

New plans are taking me to a different state and I am leaving the DMC behind.  Hopefully I will be able to pull it out of storage in 3-4 years.  I just can't bring myself to sell it.   Too much time & effort was put into the car.

to all those that have helped me.  THANKS!!!!


Dave Phelps
Petoskey, MI
VIN#6286





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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 02 Aug 2004 17:35:51 -0000
From: "Jeff Phillips" <jeff.phillips_at_dml_keesler.af.mil>
Subject: Good news

Vin 10544 is back on the road with newly resurfaced heads and has 
eliminated the overheating problems that plagued it.  Not all head 
gasket blow-by will allow coolant into the oil chamber.  

On another note I've a few questions I'd love some help on:

1. What is the size and pitch of the CO2 adj screw as mine is 
completely absent and causing the engine to run really rich.

2. Other than emmission concerns are there any other concerns I 
should address since my CAT has been hollowed out.

3. Minimum thicknes allowed when turning a rotor?

Thanks again!
Jeff
#10544




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Message: 13
Date: Sun, 1 Aug 2004 23:06:15 -0400
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Gaining HP/Losing Torque

DOM, I believe you are correct.  
The explanation I recall is that the correct 'backpressure" can
positively affect low RPM horsepower (and therefore peak torque), but
will impede high RPM HP (peak hp).  

Length of intake also has a similar correlation- and is the reason for
toyota's T-VIS : variable induction system.  Basically, it changes the
length of the intake tract at a set RPM.

I believe the Mazda cosmo has a variable exhaust system that changes the
flow of exhaust depending on speed/rpm.  

Jim

PS.  Torque can not be measured independent of mass, distance, or time.  



On Fri, 30 Jul 2004 19:46:42 -0000 "content22207"
<brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net> writes:
> Torque versus Horsepower is a common debate in another DeLorean
> newsgroup. 
> 
> My contention: since Torque is one of the variables required to
> calculate HP, yet torque itself can be measured independently of any
> other variable, the entire debate is framed incorrectly.
> 
> Others feel differently, and argue their perspective just as 
> strongly.
> 
> The discussions can become "spirited", to say the least.
> 
> Contact me off List (brobertson(at)caolina.net) and I'll give you 
> that
> newsgroup's URL.
> 
> Bill Robertson
> #5939
> 
> >--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dom Diaz" <dom_diaz_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> > This is just a technology question but I thought having too little 
> 
> > restriction on the exhaust may gain HP but will cause you too lose
> torque? 
> > Am I COMPLETELY wrong or did I not once learn that?
> > 
> > Can I get an amen? Excuse my rambling, must be the crack pipe(s).
> Still, I 
> > would like to hear thoughts on this.
> > 
> > Dom
> > 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please 
> address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
>  
> 
> 


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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2004 13:12:46 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>
Subject: RE: A New Way to Bleed Brakes & Clutch

The same way you do on the brake reservoir, adapt a cap that will screw on
to the clutch reservoir.

-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Swingle [mailto:swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com] 
Sent: Monday, August 02, 2004 12:33 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] A New Way to Bleed Brakes & Clutch


How do you plan on pressurizing the clutch reservoir with it? 

Dave S

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Scott Mueller" 
<scott.a.mueller_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> I bought one of those brake bleeders that Hervey is selling.  It
worked
> great when I did the brakes on my car.
> 
> http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/brake-bleeder.jpg
> 
> It should work just as well on the clutch.
> 




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Mon, 02 Aug 2004 18:35:45 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: A New Way to Bleed Brakes & Clutch

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> How do you plan on pressurizing the clutch reservoir with it? 
> 
> Dave S

Find cap that fits, drill hole, mount barbed fitting, seal with 
instant gasket. Used this same procedure for my own home made power 
bleeder kit like this. I even installed a "T" fitting on top, to 
mount a pressure gague.

FYI. If you use a cap that has slots cut in the threads, daub a 
little instant gasket over the notches, and cut with a X-atco blade 
when cured.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Mon, 02 Aug 2004 19:20:19 -0000
From: "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: A New Way to Bleed Brakes & Clutch

I built one of these myself using a 1 gallon garden sprayer.  Cost me 
about $20 to build.

Of course, it's too late now to let you know...

Johnny
5518



<scott.a.mueller_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> I bought one of those brake bleeders that Hervey is selling.  It 
worked
> great when I did the brakes on my car.
> 
> http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/brake-bleeder.jpg
> 
> It should work just as well on the clutch.
> 
> I looked at the speed bleeders and thought they looked good, but it 
would
> cost $35 plus shipping just to outfit the DeLorean.
> 
> I can use the Power bleeder on all of my vehicles.
> 
> Just another satisfied customer.
> 
> Scott Mueller 002981
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: David Teitelbaum [mailto:jtrealty_at_dml_w...] 
> Sent: Monday, August 02, 2004 9:19 AM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DML] A New Way to Bleed Brakes & Clutch
> 
> 
> I just saw this new product in Hemmings Motor News. It is called a
> Speedbleeder. It is supposed to make bleeding brakes easy. It looks 
like it
> may be very useful for the clutch on Deloreans. I have not tried it 
yet. You
> can look it over at 
> 
>                www.speedbleeder.com
> 
> Let me know what you think.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Mon, 02 Aug 2004 21:32:30 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: A New Way to Bleed Brakes & Clutch

Why not use a hand vacuum pump (they come with a cannister for such
purpose) or an inexpensive syphon pump to pull it from the slave end?

I emulated David T's bleeder screw with a ball check valve inserted
into my bleed hose.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> How do you plan on pressurizing the clutch reservoir with it? 
> 
> Dave S





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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Mon, 02 Aug 2004 13:20:53 -0500
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Rear View Mirror Removal

On some cars, they glue a little metal peice into place and then the mirror
slides over it and uses a tiny allen screw to hold it in.
This is easy to fix.

You have a DeLorean, so you are not so lucky.
The morons at the factory did it as cheap as possible.

The mirror is attached with a thin layer of double sided VHB tape.
I don't know if you can get any solvents like "GOO GONE" to slide in up 
there,
but other wise I would try a long and very thin sraper, or putty knife.
If you can get ahold of a long hypodermic needle, you might be able to 
squirt some
solvent into the center of the tape from the other side.
Maybe a very large razor blade like they use to take off windshield 
stickers.
You want to avoid a "prying" action, as it may cause cracks.
You need to do it in a way that you do not pull on the mirror to much.
It may be easier to work with if you can manage to separate the mirror from 
the neck.
If you can get a long thin peice of metal under it and tap on it with a 
little hammer that
might work. - VERY LIGHTLY.

- VB


>From: "EJ Chambers" <marmieej_at_dml_yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Rear View Mirror Removal
>Date: Mon, 02 Aug 2004 15:13:59 -0000
>
>Hello:
>
>I am needing to replace my rear view mirror since the vast majority of
>the housing has fallen off. Miracle the mirror piece is still there.
>Anyways, I need to remove the old mirror from my windshield so I can
>replace it with my new one.
>
>What is the best way for removing the old mirror?
>
>Thanks!
>Ej
>4475
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Mon, 02 Aug 2004 13:37:11 -0500
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: 180mph speedo?

Obviously, someone custom made it, meybe as a one-off
The black color doesn't match.

This might be as good a time as any to mention this,
but I am planning on some new stuff with the speedos.
I will be selling re-calibrated speedos set to 140MPH or other, with a new 
face to match.

I am also working on a new type of Indiglo dash kit.
This one will have a white lit background, and all the correct colors will 
be represented.
The scheme will essentially be exactly like the original dash.
My goal is to simply make the cluster look like the original in every way - 
except glow.

I also have a new kit out on my site that will replace all of your cluster 
lights with
plug-n-play LED's.
Now you will have a bright, chrisp and clear blinker, and etc.

If anyone has any extra speedos lying around that they want to sell let me 
know.
Otherwise, there will be a core charge for your speedo.

- Videobob
http://www.dfwdmc.com


>From: "James" <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] 180mph speedo?
>Date: Mon, 02 Aug 2004 17:19:34 -0000
>
>I just uploaded a photo to the "photos" section of an obviously
>aftermarket 180mph speedo that was on a car I looked at over
>the weekend. Anyone ever see one of these before or know
>where it came from? I've seen 140's, 160's, 170's and of course
>the 85mph and 240kph but this was a new one for me.
>
>James
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>





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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2004 15:30:22 EDT
From: PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Rear View Mirror Removal

DO NOT pull the mirror forward towards you.   It will crack the windshield.   
I believe the proper technique is to pull the whole thing downwards, toward 
the dash.   I have never done this however, and would wait for someone else to 
verify.

Patrick
1880


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 02 Aug 2004 21:26:06 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Gaining HP/Losing Torque

The big theory is that smaller exhaust pipes cause the gas to move
more quickly, and thus at lower pressure. This will reduce the chance
of any getting sucked back into the cylinder during the brief time
that intake and exhaust valves overlap. 

There's also supposed to be a "scavenging" effect of the *VERY* brief
period before the piston starts moving back down, in which momentum of
the exiting exhaust gas is actually creating a vacuum and pulling
itself out of the cylinder. 

In actual practice, smaller pipes invariably create an exhaust
bottleneck. Gasses actually move SLOWER than they would through larger
diameter pipes, totally negating any pressure drop. Plus the engine
has to work harder simply to shove its own exhaust out!

I've never heard of scavenging through a standard cast manifold.
Header manufacturers tout it, but I've also read that you really need
6 feet or so of custom length pipe for each cylinder for it to make
any noticeable difference (more space than is available even on
longitudinally mounted engines).

Some of the confusion arises over casual use of "backpressure" when
people really mean "delta pressure" (drop in pressure between two
points). "Backpressure" means "resistance to air flow" -- never good.

Small car enthusiasts promote supposed "benefits" of backpressure, but
I think they're sour grapes from vehicle size limitations (simply can
not fit a dual 3" or 4" exhaust system under a Honda) and government
emissions mandates.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_j...>
wrote:
> DOM, I believe you are correct.  
> The explanation I recall is that the correct 'backpressure" can
> positively affect low RPM horsepower (and therefore peak torque), but
> will impede high RPM HP (peak hp).  
> 
> Length of intake also has a similar correlation- and is the reason for
> toyota's T-VIS : variable induction system.  Basically, it changes the
> length of the intake tract at a set RPM.
> 
> I believe the Mazda cosmo has a variable exhaust system that changes the
> flow of exhaust depending on speed/rpm.  
> 
> Jim
> 
> PS.  Torque can not be measured independent of mass, distance, or
time.  
> 
> 
> 
> On Fri, 30 Jul 2004 19:46:42 -0000 "content22207"
> <brobertson_at_dml_c...> writes:
> > Torque versus Horsepower is a common debate in another DeLorean
> > newsgroup. 
> > 
> > My contention: since Torque is one of the variables required to
> > calculate HP, yet torque itself can be measured independently of any
> > other variable, the entire debate is framed incorrectly.
> > 
> > Others feel differently, and argue their perspective just as 
> > strongly.
> > 
> > The discussions can become "spirited", to say the least.
> > 
> > Contact me off List (brobertson(at)caolina.net) and I'll give you 
> > that
> > newsgroup's URL.
> > 
> > Bill Robertson
> > #5939
> > 
> > >--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dom Diaz" <dom_diaz_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> > > This is just a technology question but I thought having too little 
> > 
> > > restriction on the exhaust may gain HP but will cause you too lose
> > torque? 
> > > Am I COMPLETELY wrong or did I not once learn that?
> > > 
> > > Can I get an amen? Excuse my rambling, must be the crack pipe(s).
> > Still, I 
> > > would like to hear thoughts on this.
> > > 
> > > Dom
> > > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please 
> > address:
> > moderators_at_dml_d...
> > 
> > For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> > www.dmcnews.com
> > 
> > To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > 
> > 
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > 
> 
> 
> ________________________________________________________________
> The best thing to hit the Internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
> Surf the Web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
> Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today!




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Message: 22
Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2004 17:38:20 -0400
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: Re: delorean door seals

Here is a web site I found a while ago that has rubber trim. You can check
them out and see if they have the correct profile for the seal your looking
for.

http://www.trimlok.com

and no, they are not normally riveted on.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "simonsays10002003" <simonsays10002003_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2003 6:04 PM
Subject: [DML] DeLorean door seals


> hi i need new delorean door seals{mine are rivited on along the
> bottom with 8 rivits is this normal?. does anyone know what other car
> uses the same rubber strip or any part number and make i can use to
> get hold of them thanks simon





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Message: 23
Date: Mon, 02 Aug 2004 20:18:28 -0000
From: "jmt1970amc" <jmt1970amc_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Speedometer

Hey all,

The other day I was out for a drive, and after a little while I 
noticed that the speedometer needle was oscillating back and forth 
between about + and - 5mph of the speed it was trying to indicate, 
and the odometer/tripometer numbers were no longer rolling. It was 
working okay when I set out, and I don't remember hearing any kind 
of noise before looking down and seeing this. The angle drive still 
spins and I'm assuming both speedo cables are okay since the speed 
needle moves. Any comments or suggestions on how I can fix this?

Thanks for the help,
James




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Message: 24
Date: Mon, 02 Aug 2004 21:06:50 -0000
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>
Subject: Re: Heatgun + Frame = Bye Bye Epoxy

A proper respirator is a whopping $30 and will drastically reduce the
amount of toxic fumes that get into your lungs. Anyone doing any sort
of work like this would be crazy to not purchase and wear one of these.

When I spent several hours working over my gas tank, I didn't just sit
there and breathe the fumes that studies say can cause cancer. I wore
my respirator the entire time and didn't smell anything other than
pure, clean air.

You can buy them at just about any home improvement store. Do yourself
a favor: Spend the $30. Don't gamble with your life. Especially not
over such an insignificant amount of money, for crying out loud.

-Ryan

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> If you are at all concerned then just set up a small fan to blow the
> fumes and smells and smoke away from you. A mask is a good idea but I
> don't think it is required. I would recomend eye protection too but
> not everyone thinks it will happen to them! 
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Cecil Longwisch" <dmc1982_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> > If you like the smell it may be too late for you!
> > 
> > The heat will vaorize not only organic compounds but inorganic ones
> such as 
> > lead or zinc. I doubt if our frame has lead in the paint but it
> actually 
> > could especially being made in a differnt country without the health




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Message: 25
Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2004 17:41:19 -0400
From: "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Ignition breakdown

I'll ask a silly question.  Have you checked for water in the plug wells?  I
might be off base but it is worth a look.

Ed
10541


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, August 02, 2004 9:50 AM
Subject: [DML] Ignition breakdown


> Symptoms:
>
> Car stutters upon take off from a dead-stop, but smooths out once
> RPM's build up.
>



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


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