From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2155
Date: Thursday, August 05, 2004 3:34 AM

There are 3 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. I NEED HELP! (fwd)
From: kkurth2675_at_dml_comcast.net

2. Re: Tail-light circuit boards - soldering ok?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

3. Re: Auto Trans Problem
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 05 Aug 2004 01:43:03 +0000
From: kkurth2675_at_dml_comcast.net
Subject: I NEED HELP! (fwd)



-------------- Forwarded Message: -------------- 
From: kkurth2675_at_dml_comcast.net 
To: moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com 
Subject: I NEED HELP! 
Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2004 20:36:36 +0000 

Hello to all you delorean enthusiasts out there, this e-mail may be a little long or long winded due to my nature and love for this car...but here it goes. I own an '82 DeLorean and have owned it now for four years. Unfortunately, ever since I've owned it, it has given me some issues like most of you out there probably can relate to. To make a long story shorter, I've put over $10,000 of factory/aftermarket parts onto the car since I've bought it. Even now, the car still needs some more TLC. I have a cold start valve problem which means the cold start valve has to be plugged in when it's cold--if it's left in when the engine is warm and not turned on the car floods itself out, engine pan oil seal was replaced and it still leaks, the oil pressure needle bounces all over the place most of the time when going down the highway, I also have the Island twin-turbo system on the car when I bought it, there's a lot of popping at higher rpm's--it's done this forever since I've owned the car. For over four years, I've never pushed the car into the higher rpm's due avoid damaging anything. I've had both turbos looked at by turbo specialists and they both are working excellent. I've had mechanic friends tell me they feel the popping noise is due to improper misfiring--could this be an alternator/distributor issue...both have been replaced and upgraded along with new spark plugs and wires to better than factory specifications from specialty auto out of texas. I'm wondering if I need to go to a stronger distributor or alternator due to the turbos. Could it be a timing issue? I also have a high idle. There are a few other very minor things that I'd like to get fixed as well. In reality, there's one of two choices that I can do...do all of you out there think it would be better for me just to spend the money and haul it to texas to have the experts take a look at it in houston or is there a just as reliable technician for deloreans in the midwest or in minnesota? i know of the shop in radnor, ohio but are they as reliable as tex
as? unfortunately, here in minnesota there are no excellent mechanics that i'm aware of that i can just drive my car down to and have it properly fixed once and for all. I've done about every update mechanically and electronically that you can do to the delorean and still the car is not 100%, maybe it's not nerely as bad as it seems once delorean looks at it. The other option is to sell the car. However, if I choose this option I'd prefer to sell the entire collection of delorean and back to the future memorabilia that i've accrued over the years. I'd bet that I have the most extensive and expensive collection of delorean and back to the future memorabilia in the midwest and one of the most vast in the country. Dealership sign mounted in my garage, extremely rare memorabilia from the dmc factory, just about every magazine to ever feature the delorean or any magazine to have an article of the delorean or john himself. All the books ever made about the car or john and tons of rare collectables. I would prefer someone serious about buying my car buy the whole collection as well for a very large package deal. I even have two top-of-the-line display cabinets that were custom made for me that I paid over $3,200 both both...spared no expense builing them. The buyer would certainly need to get pictures or fly to Minneapolis to see the collection and the vastness of it in person. Anyway, I told you all it would be long-winded. In summation, I know it's a toss up or a matter of opinion, but what you all do? Fix the car and dump more money into it since I've come this far or sell it as is with minor adjustments and the entire collection and come out from underneath it. The money from the sale will be applied to either a Viper, Z06 corvette, NSX, maybe a porsche/lotus/pantera. would you all let me know asap and let me know if there's anyone out there with diagnostic advice about the minor issues i'm having and overall advice about what to do. I love this car and love the attention it brings and the story behind the car--I'm
 a true defender of the car and it's image and tainted past. However, i do want a car that's a little more reliable and certainly a lot more powerful. Let me know asap, thanks for your time...
kris kurth
minneapolis, mn 
763-755-7475
kkurth2675_at_dml_comcast.net

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 05 Aug 2004 02:55:14 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Tail-light circuit boards - soldering ok?

It doesn't matter how good or bad you are at soldering. The problem is
you can't get it clean enough for it to flow properly. Hitting the
rivets is a bad idea because you could split them or damage the board,
very hard to exactly control the amount you hit it. The screws are the
quick, cheap way to go. Tighten those little suckers as hard as you
can and it will stretch the rivets and make a good connection. The bad
news is you can no longer get them in Radio Shack. Try Lowes Home
Improvement Centers.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> Unless you are reall good at soldering, knowing how hot to be so
that you 
> don't burn the copper right off the board, you might want to send
them to 
> John Hervey to fix.
> 




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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 05 Aug 2004 03:01:41 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Auto Trans Problem

You could be experiencing the shift computer wildly changing the gears
or you could in fact be slipping the clutches. Check the line pressure
and clean the filter. Get a light box and watch what the shift
computer is trying to do. Do not drive the car this way much because
you could be doing serious internal damage. You say the fluid level is
OK, but what does the fluid look like? Is it nice and red and smells
good or is it dark and burnt smelling? Put some on your fingers, is it
gritty or smooth and clean? This can tell you alot about the internal
condition of the trans without taking it apart. Make sure you check
the level as per the procedure in the Workshop Manual.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 

-- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> Slipping like that is BAD.  Sounds like the plates are going south on 
> you.  I hate to say it, but if you don't stop driving it AND get it 
> looked at soon, you're headed for a rebuild.  $$$$
> 
> Johnny
> 5518
> 
> 
> > Hey Group!
> > 
> > During hard acceleration my cars auto trans seems to "slip then 
> > catch" multiple times until some momemtum is built up, then it 
> seems 
> > to operate fine.  I have checked the fluid level and it is fine.
> > 
> > Some of these "slip then catch" cycles are somewhat harsh, making 
> the 
> > car jerk rather hard.
> > 
> > Any help would be appreciated!
> > 
> > Dennis Lowery




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