From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2160
Date: Saturday, August 07, 2004 3:35 AM

There are 18 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Turbos - bad wrap. What's UP!!
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

2. Re: Turbos - bad wrap. What's UP!!
From: Chris Shepherd <chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. Re: Turbos - bad wrap. What's UP!!
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

4. Re: Different Colored Crap (Robert)
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

5. Transmission Oil
From: "usndmc" <usndmc_at_dml_yahoo.com>

6. Sealing clutch line connections
From: "Joshua Weader" <weader_at_dml_moocow.org>

7. Re: >snip< LED FESTOON BULBS!(A/C)
From: "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_cox.net>

8. pilot 25 vin plate
From: "alistairmccann" <alistairmccann_at_dml_yahoo.com>

9. RE: Re: Is John Hervey - Special T Auto Rippin' Me Off?
From: "D F" <funkstuf_at_dml_hotmail.com>

10. Setting HC / CO with a Gas Analyzer?
From: "Dave Stragand" <dave.stragand_at_dml_forwardlook.net>

11. The Mask (Final ignition analysis for now)
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

12. Road Trip - SC
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

13. Re: Turbos - bad wrap. What's UP!!
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

14. Re: Turbos - bad wrap. What's UP!!
From: "Donald L. Ekhoff" <ekhoff_at_dml_seagullsolutions.net>

15. Re: Transmission Oil
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

16. Re: Transmission Oil
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

17. Gas Cap?
From: "Stephen Card" <stephen_at_dml_procomroofing.com>

18. Fall Foliage Tour V Oct 16th and 17th
From: "turbodmc3113" <turbodmc_at_dml_hotmail.com>





Message: 1
Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2004 09:19:21 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Turbos - bad wrap. What's UP!!

Mine ran well too, until the day I removed it from
6068..  I dove it for many years with it blowing smoke
out of the crank case.

You do a lot of highway driving Dick, I assume the
bulk of in in Colorado where you live?  As I said,
Altitude is a factor.

Even so..  The discussion was about overall
reliability of the after market turbos.  I speak about
the dozen or so turbo cars I have looked at myself.   
I realize there are many happy turbo owners out there,
I am one myself!

--- Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:

> Marc
> 
> I've told you this before. Apparently you don't
> believe me. I have had two cars equipped with the
> twin
> turbos.  I put well over 100,000 miles on them after
> the turbos were installed.  NEITHER car EVER had
> smoke
> blow out of the crankcase.
> 
> Are turbos perfect.  Of course not.  There is no
> such
> thing as a free lunch.  
> 
> Dick Ryan
> VIN 16867
> 
> --- Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
> 
> > Ahh, I see..  You are more qualified than Fred
> > Dellis
> > on the subject of Turbos?
> > 
> > If you are going to provide your opinion on a
> > technical issue like this, can you also fill us in
> > on
> > your expertise in the subject?
> > 
> > I still have yet to see a after market Turbo
> > DeLorean
> > that does not blow smoke out of the crank case... 
> 
> > 
> > Maybe I have said enough on the issue, I have my
> > Island turbo engine sitting in the garage that I
> may
> > want to sell sometime soon..  LOL
> > 
> > --- bluemax86 <massimot_at_dml_rushmore.com> wrote:
> > 
> > <SNIP>
> > 
> > > quick if you isntall a trubo". Even Mr. Dellis
> (I
> > > think that's how you
> > > spell it), bless his soul, mentioned in is
> speach
> > > that "you can't just
> > > strap a turbo on the Delorean".
> > > 
> > > Guys (girls), don't you know that there are
> plenty
> > > of turbo Deloreans
> > > out there running just fine with no problems at
> > all,
> > > they get driven
> > > often, in some cases the engines have over
> 100,000
> > > miles on them and
> > > they are still going.
> > <SNIP>
> > 
> > __________________________________________________
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> > 
> > 
> > 
> > To address comments privately to the moderating
> > team, please address:
> > moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> > 
> > For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> > sale see www.dmcnews.com
> > 
> > To search the archives or view files, log in at
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > 
> > 
> >     dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > 
> 
> 
> 
> 		
> __________________________________
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> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
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> sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
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>  
> 
> 



		
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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2004 09:26:40 -0700 (PDT)
From: Chris Shepherd <chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Turbos - bad wrap. What's UP!!

OK........Just did it and no, there is no pressure in the crank case. I do run synthetic oil and change it every 2,500 mi. give or take. To be honest, I have never worried about the turbo setup at all since buying the car and going over it completely to make sure it was correct. 
I had a couple of conversations with Eleanor Rogers and John Conway, the mechanic that she uses (used?, it's been years). I did keep my notes from the conversations with John. He told me of someone in his area that was running 12lbs of boost and Nitrous Oxide. That engine had forged pistons and a few other mods.
I had sold my normally aspirated automatic and been looking for a turbo 5 speed for a couple of years before I found this one in Hemmings. I've been very happy with it. 


Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
Qualified, because you own one?? I own one too.. LOL

So, do me a favor.. Start the car up, and with the
engine running remove the "Oil Filler Assembly"
(102415) and see if you have pressure in the crank
case. You can probably see it with your eyes, but you
can also use your hand to feel. Please answer
honestly.

Also, where do you live? I suspect altitude has a lot
to do with the reliability of the turbos.

I will let you know when I list the engine on Ebay. 
Still not sure if I want to sell the whole engine, or
just the turbo kit.. BTW, why do you need a spare if
yours is so reliable?

--- Chris Shepherd wrote:

> Well, I am qualified and I agree with him. I've had
> mine for 10 years and have had NO turbo related
> problems. No blue smoke, unlike my previous normally
> aspirated one. The only problem I have ever had is
> with the high temp silicon hose coming off one of
> the turbos. this has happened twice and now has a
> new piece of hose. Oh, I have driven it around 35K
> since I bought it. 
> When you decide to sell the engine post it on the
> list, I may be interested. 





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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 06 Aug 2004 13:23:05 -0500
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Turbos - bad wrap. What's UP!!

I have never had the pleasure of driving a turbo Delorean.
However if I had one I can assure you the engine would be toast right now.
Most of the people who have these turbos must have them adjusted very low, 
and
drive real nicey like and don't push the engine too hard.
I can betchya I could blow your engine the first day.
Where as, the stock engine is so choked and governed that it would be tough.
You would have to put it in 1st and floor it all day until it over heated.

I can't wait to get the DVD finished from Pigeon Forge,
When Fred Deliis spoke about these turbos, he said that under testing most 
engines
only lasted a few minutes.
It took them a long time to get it just right where it would't toast the 
engine.

However, I am not a turno expert at all and know nothing about them but 
based
on public opinion about them I would not invest the money it would take to 
install one
on my engine. A smarter investment would simply be an engine swap.
- VB


>From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [DML] Turbos - bad wrap. What's UP!!
>Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2004 20:23:04 -0700 (PDT)
>
>Ahh, I see..  You are more qualified than Fred Dellis
>on the subject of Turbos?
>
>If you are going to provide your opinion on a
>technical issue like this, can you also fill us in on
>your expertise in the subject?
>
>I still have yet to see a after market Turbo DeLorean
>that does not blow smoke out of the crank case...
>
>Maybe I have said enough on the issue, I have my
>Island turbo engine sitting in the garage that I may
>want to sell sometime soon..  LOL
>
>--- bluemax86 <massimot_at_dml_rushmore.com> wrote:
>
><SNIP>
>
> > quick if you isntall a trubo". Even Mr. Dellis (I
> > think that's how you
> > spell it), bless his soul, mentioned in is speach
> > that "you can't just
> > strap a turbo on the Delorean".
> >
> > Guys (girls), don't you know that there are plenty
> > of turbo Deloreans
> > out there running just fine with no problems at all,
> > they get driven
> > often, in some cases the engines have over 100,000
> > miles on them and
> > they are still going.
><SNIP>
>
>__________________________________________________
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>Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
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>
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>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>





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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 06 Aug 2004 17:19:18 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Different Colored Crap (Robert)

Gold colored: that's called fuel varnish. I noted the same thing in a
fuel/air mixture unit I just disassembled. There is only one place it
could have come from -- the fuel distributor metering piston (all
other fuel distribution points are well on the other side of the
throttle plates). Yours is leaking, apparently very badly.

Red colored: that's high temp silicone. Good stuff, but you've got to
use it properly. Can not be applied topically! You've got to apply a
bead *BETWEEN* the mating surfaces, glently close them to evenly
distribute, let it dry, then tighten with final torque specs.

Except for #4, your compression readings are well within 10 PSI
variation. Don't worry about the 150 PSI cylinders (my factory
literature isn't handy, but original compression was in that general
area). Worry about #4. 168 PSI is much too high for anything except
European spec. Test it again to verify reading was accurate. If it
was, you've got terrible carbon buildup. Only way to remove it is
going to be with a grinder (carbon welds itself to the piston. Glows
red hot too, leading to pre-dentonation problems).

For your first helicoil installation, put the helicoil on the plug.
Otherwise you run the risk of continuing to thread it through the hole
and into the cylinder as the plug is inserted. With time it will
hopefully weld itself to the head. Don't forget to use a piece of hose
attached to your vacuum cleaner to throroughly clean the cylinder
after tapping (head is aluminum so I doubt you'll need to drill).

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> From when I last posted, I have since removed the intake manifold, and
> have been shocked at what I found. The manifold rings had shrunk into
> the heads, and the rings on W pipe were torn. And to fix the vacuum
> leaks, some idiot mechanic slathered them with some kind of red
> colored, instant gasket material. I suddenly foresee a CO addjustment
> in my future... Aside from this, it looks like I've got some serious
> buildup. From the air mixture unit, thru the manifold, and all the way
> to the intake valves, I have this gold, and black colored crap that's
> caked on everywhere. Don't know if it's carbon, or what. But it
> scrapes off with a screwdriver, and is everywhere.
> 
> After performing a compression test, here are the results for each
> cylinder. #1: 160psi, #2: 150psi, #3: 158psi, #4: 168psi, #5: 161psi,
> & #6: 160psi.
> 
> Now cylinders 2 & 5 are both cross threaded. #5 took allot more
> rotations to snuggly hand tighten the adaptor. #2 on the other hand,
> took allot less. So I don't know nessisarily that I may have had lower
> pressure than on this cylinder was because I wasn't sealing it
> properly. BUT, what I did observe was that while every other cylinder
> took only 2-3 compression strokes to attain thier recorded pressure,
> it took about 5-6 strokes for #2 to hit 150 psi. I go ahead tomorrow,
> and (per the test kit's instructions) pout a tablespoon of oil into
> the cylinder, and see if I can get a higher reading, to test the
> piston rings.
> 
> I don't know what the tolerances are for cylinder compression (I
> lightly combed thru the workshop manual to try and find them), but I
> am a bit concerned about that 18psi difference between my highest, and
> lowest pressure cylinders. I have discovered a couple of tiny leaks
> from some hose connections under the manifold, and one BIG one on the
> left bank of the Y pipe, where it bolts to the block. So a coolant
> pressure test isn't really going to tell me a whole lot at this point.
> HOWEVER, after my car cooled, I poped the radiator cap. The coolant
> bubbled a whole lot, and smelled like gasoline.
> 
> Also, while picking up a compression tester, I stubled across a
> crossthread repair kit. It was $14, and contained a 14mm tap, and 4
> sleeve inserts for repairing aluminum heads. Anyone have any
> experience with these?
> 
> -Robert
> vin 6585 "X"




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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 06 Aug 2004 17:37:46 -0000
From: "usndmc" <usndmc_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Transmission Oil

My car is a 5 speed, and I am going to change the transmission oil 
soon. I was wondering what kind I should use. Is there any consensus 
about this?

Dave
#5968




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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2004 14:02:28 -0500
From: "Joshua Weader" <weader_at_dml_moocow.org>
Subject: Sealing clutch line connections


I recently replaced the part of the clutch line that connects to the slave
cylinder.   I tightened both ends down (I thought), and bled the line. 
Everything seemed to be holding together well - took the car for a short test
drive, and didn't notice any leaks.

Fast forward 24 hours: I came out the next morning to find a puddle of clutch
fluid under the car, and the reservoir empty.  I couldn't really tell which
end of the clutch pipe it had leaked out from.  Is there something that
normally gets put on the fittings to keep it from leaking?  Or did I just not
tighten them quite enough?  I was under the impression that just tightening
the fittings enough would seal them.

Thanks,

--Josh
#5553

---------------------------------------------
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty: soap,
ballot, jury, and ammo.  Please use in that order." - Ed Howdershelt




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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 06 Aug 2004 17:58:01 -0000
From: "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: >snip< LED FESTOON BULBS!(A/C)

You wouldn't happen to know if the shift-quadrant on the automatics 
is BA7?  It's a really tiny bulb.

Johnny
5518


> I'm sorry, I completely botched this. I should have said four whites
> and THREE reds. The four whites illuminate the console area, the 
three
> reds take care of your "cooling fan fail", "rear defrost", and "lock
> doors".
> 
> They look great, by the way.
> 
> -Ryan





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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 06 Aug 2004 18:53:43 -0000
From: "alistairmccann" <alistairmccann_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: pilot 25 vin plate

Hi Folks

Further to questions, I checked the whole car today and found only 
one other tag that is on the engine which reads 000000197.

Other than the tag on the dashboard this is the only other number on 
the car.

The car tax office over here did a quick check on the car last week 
using the old records they still had on file and just updated the 
info with my details - They were also able to give me the original 
number plate back aswell which is great as the number "RIA 7124" is 
a main part of the car as there are loads of pictures of it in the 
GOLD PORTFOLIO (pages 41-42-43-67-78-80-81)

Cheers for all the emails

Alistair.




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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 06 Aug 2004 19:44:54 +0000
From: "D F" <funkstuf_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Is John Hervey - Special T Auto Rippin' Me Off?

I've bought lots of things from John and he has done a very good job for me.
I don't think he's trying to rip anybody off.

Dale Funk
4984


>From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Re: Is John Hervey - Special T Auto Rippin' Me Off?
>Date: Fri, 06 Aug 2004 14:46:20 -0000
>
>We're only hearing one side of the story here, but if indeed events
>have happened as you claim, this is a total aberration of the way
>John normally works.
>
>He is kind, courteous and thorough. He is a one-man-band though. He's
>not a company with a staff or an admin assistant. He posts all sorts
>of free technical information on his site to aid the owners and
>reduce the amount of tech-assist phonecalls.
>
>Frankly, I'd like to hear the other side of the story.
>
>Rich A.
>#5335
>
>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Rustproof" <Rustproof_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> > John is of the highest caliber and you won't find a more decent guy
>than
> > him. If he's having a problem with your paperwork, do as he asks.
>He's not
> > the type that will rip you off or jerk you around. I've been
>dealing with
> > John for a long time now and he's always gone the extra mile for me.
> > Rustproof
> > Vin 1559
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "spaceboy_2912" <seanmm_at_dml_a...>
> > To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
> > Sent: Thursday, August 05, 2004 2:56 PM
> > Subject: [DML] Re: Is John Hervey - Special T Auto Rippin' Me Off?
> >
> >
> > > Chris,
> > > To John's defense he is running a VERY busy one man show. I spoke
> > > with john about a month ago about a similar situation and the man
>was
> > > still recovering from DCS '04 but did handle my core refund. Ive
> > > known John and bought parts from him for a few years and can tell
>you
> > > he is an honest straight shooting guy who is not out to rip you
>off.
> > > i will admit email is most likley the toughest way to get a reply
> > > from him due to the amount he gets. again John is an honest guy
>who
> > > is very busy and I wouldnt think twice about ziping him a copy of
> > > your invoice.
> > >
> > > Sean Mullins
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please
>address:
> > > moderators_at_dml_d...
> > >
> > > For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
> > www.dmcnews.com
> > >
> > > To search the archives or view files, log in at
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>

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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2004 16:14:45 -0400
From: "Dave Stragand" <dave.stragand_at_dml_forwardlook.net>
Subject: Setting HC / CO with a Gas Analyzer?

Hi All,
 
Just wanted to see what all anyone has to say about setting the CO with an
analyzer.  We'll be doing several tomorrow at the Pittsburgh tech session
(possibly over 18 cars attending -- WOW!!!)
 
The book has you set CO to 1%, at 950 RPMs with the O2 sensor disconnected.
That is so that it sets CO in the middle of the range so the lambda system
can compensate a bit either way.
 
Assuming we do -not- disconnect the O2 sensor, and test at idle, what should
the proper setting for CO be?  Warren at DMC Houston said around 0.5 - 0.6%,
as running it down near 0% might be a bit lean.
 
Pennsylvania emissions has CO 1.2% and 200 ppm HC as limits for 1981, and I
imagine anything under 1% CO would be fine just about everywhere.  Any
suggestions on exactly where percantage-wise that the CO should be set?
 
Thanks!
 
-Dave Stragand
http://www.ProjectVixen.com
VIN #05927


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 11
Date: Fri, 06 Aug 2004 21:56:29 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: The Mask (Final ignition analysis for now)

Ok, figure this one out:

With the wife and kids out of town, I've had nothing but 2 glorious
days of peace to ponder this issue. I've been feeling the behavior of
the car while driving to and from work. Something keeps drawing me
back to timing advance; Too much, too little, too fast (missing
weights or springs), too slow (gummed up inside)...not sure which.

I came home today and whipped out my shiny, new timing light and 
began to
examine the vacuum advance in detail. If I'm doing it right, it only
seems to do 2 steps of advance, and too much of it but again, I want
someone to read the tach while I do this. Maybe I'm not gentle enough.

1100-ish RPM's: 10 OR 20 degrees. (I was trying to get off of the
micro switch.)
1500-ish RPM's: off the scale, say around 40 degrees. The manual
calls for: 20 degrees at 15" Hg, incrementing in 3 steps, not two.

I then proceeded to take some of Martin's G's advice and try to clean
out the dizzy again in case something was gummed up. I sprayed a
little contact cleaner in the distributor because I've seen it eat
varnish and gunk off of electrical items so well. This was an -
instant- improvement, but still at about 1/2 to 3/4 of pedal travel
there was bogging now combined with "herk 'n jerk". When I feather
the throttle, it now has much better acceleration than it did before
I sprayed the cleaner in the dizzy, as long as I don't exceed
that "bog point" with the throttle pedal. (BTW: the "bog point" moves
closer to the floor, the higher the RPM'S so you can slowly press the
pedal down as you accelerate, just don't "overtake" the timing)

Still not satisfied, but having a suspicion, I put my old, blue coil
in yet again, with the old ballast resistor, and what happens?
Flawless. Not a stutter, jerk or stumble. Full power pulling away,
and full power with the pedal to the floor. At least it's running
correctly now.

What gives? Why doesn't my car accept any other coil? This is my
5th new one. The others were Accel and some no-name brand but this
one is a Bosch 18k volt coil. A minor upgrade compared to the MSD's
and Pertronix some of you guys are running.

One thing's sure: I haven't fixed this problem, only masked it.

Rich A.
#5335





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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Fri, 06 Aug 2004 22:07:51 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Road Trip - SC

I'll shortly be heading back to The South (Clemson SC area) for the 
week to retrieve my DeLorean that I left back there after Pigeon 
Forge (among other reasons). Anyone in the area need an emergency 
door adjustment? Or just some beer and bench-racing? 

Dave Swingle (it will be nice to have the "live" DeLorean back home)




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Message: 13
Date: Fri, 06 Aug 2004 23:20:03 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Turbos - bad wrap. What's UP!!

Actually I didn't say that in my original mail - I was listing a 
difference that Renault made. However, I have had an answer from a 
Renault guy who pointed out that as long as you've got mass-air-flow 
sensing of some sort (which K-Jet basically is) and continuous 
injection, like a carb, then odd-firing isn't a problem for a turbo. It 
all comes down to the metering of the fuel. Also for a higher 
performance engine, the counterweights on the crank shaft are 
detrimental to performance. Going even-fire allows the pistons to 
balance each-other

Remember the PRV was originally meant to be a V8. 90 degree V6's are 
rare because they have to be odd-fire in order to run smoothly. Renault 
got around this on the even-fire lumps by adding an eccentric weight to 
the camshafts

Martin

Dick Ryan wrote:

>One thing I do not understand is the constant refernce
>to  turbos not being "odd-fire" friendly.  Man, have
>you ever ridden in a Buick Grand National?  Now
>there's a turbocharged odd-fire V-6 engine that
>screams.  Though I'm certainly not an expert, the
>owners I have known have not had bad things to say
>about them.
>  
>





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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 06 Aug 2004 16:56:06 -0700
From: "Donald L. Ekhoff" <ekhoff_at_dml_seagullsolutions.net>
Subject: Re: Turbos - bad wrap. What's UP!!


Speaking if twin turbos with nitrous, I bought such an equiped DeLorean 
on E-Bay a while back. Total butcher job. It was an Island twin with 
nitrous tanks the size of scuba tanks. When I bought it a few teeth were 
missing on the ring gear in the final drive. I don't know how it 
happened but the mind boggles. Anyway it ran OK at idle so I bought it. 
I am in the middle of a complete rebuild of the entire car. For the sake 
of cureosity and to do some extensive porting, the engine has been 
completely disassembled. No internal damage was discovered, so whatever 
its personal history, it seemed to have survived it. One thing that 
might have saved it was that an intercooler was added and all the flow 
was routed to and from the intercooler thru a single 1 1/4" dia. tube. 
This was so restrictive there was no way the engine could have made any 
real horsepower, nitrous or not.

My other two DeLoreans with single turbo's have many years and miles on 
them with 10 to 12 pounds of boost. I did have to add a homebuild water 
injection system to get a handle on pre-ignition, but it works great. I 
monitor the actual temperature of the intake manifold and it drops 
dramatically in temperature whenever I use boost (water).

Don Ekhoff


Chris Shepherd wrote:

>OK........Just did it and no, there is no pressure in the crank case. I do run synthetic oil and change it every 2,500 mi. give or take. To be honest, I have never worried about the turbo setup at all since buying the car and going over it completely to make sure it was correct. 
>I had a couple of conversations with Eleanor Rogers and John Conway, the mechanic that she uses (used?, it's been years). I did keep my notes from the conversations with John. He told me of someone in his area that was running 12lbs of boost and Nitrous Oxide. That engine had forged pistons and a few other mods.
>I had sold my normally aspirated automatic and been looking for a turbo 5 speed for a couple of years before I found this one in Hemmings. I've been very happy with it. 
>
>  
>






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Message: 15
Date: Sat, 07 Aug 2004 01:19:02 -0000
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Re: Transmission Oil

I think the important thing is that you choose 90 weight oil, and 
pick something that's not necessarily made for limited slip 
differentials.  Some say use 75W90, some say use 85W90.  I actually 
changed mine out today, and I used 1 gallon of Valvoline 80W90 
durablend (half synthetic) gear oil.  I swear they add stuff to it 
to make it smell good!  The container makes it real easy to squirt 
it right into the transmission without a pump, too.  
It might help to put some teflon tape on the plug threads when you 
tighten them back up.  

Matt
#1604

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "usndmc" <usndmc_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> My car is a 5 speed, and I am going to change the transmission oil 
> soon. I was wondering what kind I should use. Is there any 
consensus 
> about this?
> 
> Dave
> #5968




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Message: 16
Date: Sat, 07 Aug 2004 01:28:45 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Transmission Oil

It's not all that critical with one exception. Factory spec is 
something like 75W90 hypoid gear oil. I've tried everything from the 
cheapo stuff that comes in a gallon at Autozone to Red-Line, and 
don't notice any operational difference. Over the long term a 
synthetic is the way to go. 

I have Redline 75W90 in mine now, and it seems to leak more than the 
other stuff. Main thing is to not make the mistake of using Redline 
MTL (Manual transmission lube) or ATF. This is not just a manual 
transmission! MTL/ATF is too thin for a transaxle, and not designed 
for a differential. I called Red-line to make sure, and their 
recommendation was to use their 75W90-NS. Their naming convention is 
somewhat backwards, the "NS" means that it's not for non-slip 
differentials. The 75W90 (which has the non-slip additive in it) is 
supposedly too slippery for the syncros to work properly. 

That being said, my preference is still for Valvoline synthetic. It 
seemed to leak a little less, and like I said I really didn't notice 
any difference in driving it. It costs the same as the Redline, about 
$8 a quart (and it takes almost 4 quarts!). 

Dave S

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "usndmc" <usndmc_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> My car is a 5 speed, and I am going to change the transmission oil 
> soon. I was wondering what kind I should use. Is there any 
consensus 
> about this?
> 
> Dave
> #5968




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Message: 17
Date: Sat, 07 Aug 2004 01:44:59 -0000
From: "Stephen Card" <stephen_at_dml_procomroofing.com>
Subject: Gas Cap?

I would like to replace the locking gas cap with a new standard gas 
cap (no gas flap to go with the locking gas cap.) Can anyone tell me 
if I am looking for a vented or non-vented gas cap? Better yet is 
anyone willing to share the "Stant" part number for the proper gas 
cap? A search in the archives didn't turn up anything.
Thanks,
Stephen
Vin 3601, inspected and back on the road.




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Message: 18
Date: Sat, 07 Aug 2004 02:39:32 -0000
From: "turbodmc3113" <turbodmc_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Fall Foliage Tour V Oct 16th and 17th


The 5th annual DeLorean Fall Foliage Tour is going to be the best 
fall tour ever!
Please check the club web page for details and updates 
http://www.deloreanmidatlantic.com/events/falltour5.htm 
Updates are being added daily so check this page often.


We are staying at a former gold coast mansion (check out the pictures 
on the web page.The weekend that is planed is going to be unlike any 
previous event.You will be living the dream as we tour and stay in 
some of the most opulent communities in America.

The photo opportunities should be superb and this will be a great 
weekend getaway that will include lots of DeLoreans.

Please make you hotel reservations as soon as possible (516) 671 
6400, you are at no risk because you can cancel up to 24 hours before 
the event at no cost. By booking rooms early it will give us the 
chance to get an additional block of rooms they will add more rooms 
at our discounted group rate based on availability.  Our group rate 
is $159 and you must tell them that you want the Fall Tour Five group 
rate to get that price. I have a limited number of rooms available at 
that price for Friday Oct 15th for those people who may want to 
arrive early and really enjoy their stay. If you are thinking about 
attending or want to get more information contact me so I can put you 
on my e-mail list and start to get an idea of the number of people 
that may attend.

Regards,


Michael DeLuca
President DeLorean Mid Atlantic





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