From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2161
Date: Sunday, August 08, 2004 3:36 AM

There are 15 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Road Trip - SC
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

2. Re: Gas Cap?
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

3. Re: Turbos - bad wrap. What's UP!!
From: "Jake Kamphoefner" <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

4. Re: >snip< LED FESTOON BULBS!(A/C)
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>

5. Re: The Mask (Final ignition analysis for now)
From: "deer_hunter1971" <deer_hunter1971_at_dml_yahoo.com>

6. Swapping trailing arm bolts, catch 22
From: Michiel Böhmer <michiel.bohmer_at_dml_infram.nl>

7. Re: Turbos - bad wrap. What's UP!!
From: massimot <massimot_at_dml_rushmore.com>

8. Re: Re: Gas Cap?
From: kevin creason <kcreason77_at_dml_yahoo.com>

9. Re: Swapping trailing arm bolts, catch 22
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

10. Steering Wheel Removal
From: "aaron_t_graham" <aaron_t_graham_at_dml_yahoo.com>

11. Slave Cylinder-What's the best way to tackle this?
From: "Michael & Denise" <luckeys71_at_dml_cox.net>

12. Re: The Mask (Final ignition analysis for now)
From: "Jim Reeve" <jim.reeve_at_dml_wayzata.k12.mn.us>

13. Anyone Still Selling "Doc Brown doesnt drive a _at_dml_#$%#! mustang" shirt?
From: "Travis" <armac_at_dml_rocketmail.com>

14. Re: Is John Hervey - Special T Auto Rippin' Me Off?
From: John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_yahoo.com>

15. Re: Turbos - bad wrap. What's UP!!
From: "Bill Lane" <blane_at_dml_triad.rr.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 07 Aug 2004 04:11:12 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Road Trip - SC

Give us beginning and ending dates, and any blacked out therein.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> I'll shortly be heading back to The South (Clemson SC area) for the 
> week to retrieve my DeLorean that I left back there after Pigeon 
> Forge (among other reasons). Anyone in the area need an emergency 
> door adjustment? Or just some beer and bench-racing? 
> 
> Dave Swingle (it will be nice to have the "live" DeLorean back home)




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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 07 Aug 2004 04:33:43 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: Gas Cap?

Stephen - How about an official DeLorean NOS non-locking gas cap for 
under ten bucks?  Got them in stock!  Email me for the Stant part 
number if you really want to go that way.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest
www.delorean-parts.com


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Stephen Card" <stephen_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> I would like to replace the locking gas cap with a new standard 
gas cap (no gas flap to go with the locking gas cap.) Can anyone 
tell me if I am looking for a vented or non-vented gas cap? Better 
yet is anyone willing to share the "Stant" part number for the 
proper gas cap? A search in the archives didn't turn up anything.
> Thanks,
> Stephen
> Vin 3601, inspected and back on the road.




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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 7 Aug 2004 00:24:45 -0500
From: "Jake Kamphoefner" <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Turbos - bad wrap. What's UP!!

>But, but I also read about all
> the problems that normally aspirated DeLoreans seem to
> have for some people. I've not experienced most of
> them either.  Perhaps I'm just lucky - OR - perhaps
> the extraordinary care I give to my car is the reason
> it seems to be so trouble free.
>
> Dick Ryan
> VIN 16867

Not sure, Dick.  I don't have most of those problems either, and I drive the
hell out of the thing.  It could just be the great maintenance
istory.  --But I always like to think that we're not touched by most
problems because it's hard to hit a moving target!    ;-)

Jake Kamphoefner and 1063
Representing the "ass" in 'normally aspirated'




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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 07 Aug 2004 06:25:26 -0000
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>
Subject: Re: >snip< LED FESTOON BULBS!(A/C)

Unfortunately, I don't. I'm only been a bought & paid for member of
this whole "DeLorean Cult" thing for a few months now, and my sleek
silver poison is a 5 speed. Hopefully someone else on the list can
help you.

-Ryan

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> You wouldn't happen to know if the shift-quadrant on the automatics 
> is BA7?  It's a really tiny bulb.
> 
> Johnny
> 5518
> 
> 
> > I'm sorry, I completely botched this. I should have said four whites
> > and THREE reds. The four whites illuminate the console area, the 
> three
> > reds take care of your "cooling fan fail", "rear defrost", and "lock
> > doors".
> > 
> > They look great, by the way.
> > 
> > -Ryan




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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 07 Aug 2004 06:42:44 -0000
From: "deer_hunter1971" <deer_hunter1971_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: The Mask (Final ignition analysis for now)

Rich, sorry to have deleted so much of your original message, but I 
figured since you wrote it, you know what was in it. lol       Since 
it sounds like the issue is in the distributor, you might have to 
remove the distributor and giv it a thorough cleaning. It sounds like 
you're on the right track though.    Good luck




> I then proceeded to take some of Martin's G's advice and try to 
clean
> out the dizzy again in case something was gummed up. I sprayed a
> little contact cleaner in the distributor because I've seen it eat
> varnish and gunk off of electrical items so well. This was an -
> instant- improvement, but still at about 1/2 to 3/4 of pedal travel
> there was bogging now combined with "herk 'n jerk". When I feather
> the throttle, it now has much better acceleration than it did before
> I sprayed the cleaner in the dizzy
> Rich A.
> #5335




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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 7 Aug 2004 11:32:32 +0200
From: Michiel Böhmer <michiel.bohmer_at_dml_infram.nl>
Subject: Swapping trailing arm bolts, catch 22

Dear all,

I seem to have a total different DeLorean then you all have.

I have these new trailing arm bolts and they have to get in my car with
automatic transmission. According to the manual it should be a piece of
cake. Got my car on studs and went on with it. First the right (looked
easier). Got the nut loose and had the struggle to get the bolt out. Removed
3 shims and after 1,5 hour of pushing, pulling, turning and tabbing the
trailing arm was disconnected. It must be my clumsiness because the bolt is
new and shines like a diamond (bought the car in September with 300 miles on
it). Strange thing was: this bolt that was loose now can not come out
because of the transmission that is in the way. That was a good moment to
check the archives! Learned a lot about these bolts and all of the specs and
there is mentioning of the left bolt that could be replaced without removing
the automatic transmission. No word about this right bolt, should be that
piece of cake again, I guess. I even learned that people change these bolts
in an hour and give their garage a good clean even the same time. Well
that's hopeful.
I went back again and tried to disconnect the rubber bushing mounting plate.
With that thing loose I can pull out the bolt in an angle? No such thing!
The two M8 bolts holding the mounting are in the frame (a nut welded on the
frame) but have also a counter nut behind that welded nut. Eventually I
should be able to get the bolt out that is most to the rear of the car, but
never the other. That is, not with the TAB in place because you can not
reach it with a wrenge! So the way I see it: the bolt can only be removes if
I get this mounting plate loose (at least that is my assumption: I couldn't
read it anywhere). The only way to get the mounting plate loose is to remove
the bolt. I thought you call that a typical catch 22 situation.

Maybe if my bolt was bend it would came out because I can move it along the
transmission but the way it is, I don't see how. And let's not forget, this
is the easy bolt where no word was even mentioned because it's that easy.
What about the left bolt? It should come out when I remove the trailing arm.
That is strange because I have the trailing arm removed (at the right) and
the bolt won't come out anyway with more space.

Please help me, what is going on here? Are my bolts longer then yours? Am I
the only one with the catch 22 situation (counter locking nuts) where you
can not reach the one that is practically in the frame? Is my assumption
right that the bolts come out (and in!!) with the mounting plate loose? (and
why isn't that written anywhere I wonder).

Anybody?

Kind regards,

Bit of desperate Michiel Bohmer
#4349


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 07 Aug 2004 09:30:52 -0500
From: massimot <massimot_at_dml_rushmore.com>
Subject: Re: Turbos - bad wrap. What's UP!!

Well I guess I should reply since I started this.

First off I wasn't trying give a technical seminar on the benefits of a 
turbo, I am not that knowledgeable. I was just giving my observations on 
the matter. What's the saying - sometimes you can't see the forest for 
the trees. I don't have to be an engineer to know that my Island turbo 
Delorean has been running fine for 6 years, no smoke, smooth, well 
except for lately when one of the turbos stopped producing boost :-[.

As for thinking I am more qualified than Fred Dellis, I would never 
assume that I am not that stupid, although some of you may disagree :-P 
. Fred put a lot of effort, time and money into the Legend and I would 
never compare them to the other turbos. Although he did say that he 
designed it so that ANYONE could drive a Legend without blowing the 
engine - even Video Bob!

Someone said that we shouldn't add turbos to our already overly complex 
engines. Well now I am confused, because I keep on reading threads that 
say our engines are not complicated. But I guess that's another issue.

I have a theory as to why the vendors don't want to work on turbos - 
because they are too busy fixing the normally aspirated Deloreans that 
they have no time for us..LOL.

One good thing did come out of my original post. Between all the replies 
I now know more about the turbo setup! Thanks to all that replied - and 
I still think turbos rock! :-)

Max






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Message: 8
Date: Sat, 7 Aug 2004 08:50:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: kevin creason <kcreason77_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Gas Cap?

The generic cross-list says Stant #11810; 
I had problems with a stant (unsure if that exact
number or not) and went with a NOS. However, it failed
test after a year. The garages had a stant that fit
and passed but I don't know what the number is.


--- tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com wrote:

> Stephen - How about an official DeLorean NOS
> non-locking gas cap for 
> under ten bucks?  Got them in stock!  Email me for
> the Stant part 
> number if you really want to go that way.
> 
> Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
> DeLorean Parts Northwest
> www.delorean-parts.com
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Stephen Card"
> <stephen_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> > I would like to replace the locking gas cap with a
> new standard 
> gas cap (no gas flap to go with the locking gas
> cap.) Can anyone 
> tell me if I am looking for a vented or non-vented
> gas cap? Better 
> yet is anyone willing to share the "Stant" part
> number for the 
> proper gas cap? A search in the archives didn't turn
> up anything.
> > Thanks,
> > Stephen
> > Vin 3601, inspected and back on the road.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
>     dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> 
>  
> 
> 



		
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Message: 9
Date: Sat, 07 Aug 2004 18:27:14 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: Swapping trailing arm bolts, catch 22

Michiel - First of all, rest assured that your DeLorean is no 
different than any others ... they all have their own individual 
quirks.  Your car had only 300 miles when you bought it a year ago?  
The TAB's are "shining like diamonds" because the car has hardly 
been driven.  For the right hand TAB, if you have the joint loose, 
and the bolt slid out all the way until the head contacts the 
transmission, you should be able to move the bolt around by 
deflecting the rubber in the rubber bushing.  I have never had one 
that wouldn't come out with a little "pushing and shoving".  If you 
really want to remove the right hand rubber bushing plate, a small 
wrench can be inserted into the opening in the frame on the 
transmission side to loosen the jam nut.  By the way, 
congratulations on recognizing that there is a jam nut as well as 
the welded nut.  If the retaining plate bolt is turned without 
removing the jam nut, it is easy to twist the head off of the bolt.  
The right hand TAB should be fairly easy to replace, so that is why 
it is not talked about much in the files.  The left TAB is another 
story when an automatic transmission is involved.  One strategy is 
to remove the entire trailing arm from the car in order to change 
the TAB (great article in Gullwing Magazine last year about that 
task), and the other is to cut the old TAB out.  This takes a hack 
saw or metal-cutting Saws-all.  Then, you loosen the bushing 
retaining plate, and insert the new TAB with the head to 
the "outside", through the trailing arm, the loose bushing, and then 
reinstall the bushing plate back in.  All of this takes patience and 
small tools.  With everything back in, you can torque the new TAB 
using the head of the bolt instead of the nut.  If you'd like to 
work through this "Off List", please feel free to email me at toby
(at)delorean-parts.com.  I have done a few automatics now, so it can 
be done.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com 


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Michiel Böhmer <michiel.bohmer_at_dml_i...> 
wrote:
> Dear all,
> 
> I seem to have a total different DeLorean then you all have.
> 
> I have these new trailing arm bolts and they have to get in my car 
with automatic transmission. According to the manual it should be a 
piece of cake.  




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Message: 10
Date: Sat, 07 Aug 2004 20:04:04 -0000
From: "aaron_t_graham" <aaron_t_graham_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Steering Wheel Removal

I just finished removing and replacing my steering wheel, and I'd like
to jot down exactly what I needed and how it went.  I had been putting
it off for awhile because I've read lots of posts explaining how hard
it is to do (though they were not more helpful than that).  Despite my
searches, I couldn't find any more information, like what tools to
use, bolt and socket sizes, etc.  Hopefully this will save someone a
trip to the hardware store.

Here is what I needed to get the job done:
1) 22 mm socket
2) average steering wheel puller set
3) Two 1/4 by 4-inch hex bolts (get washers, too)

The 22 mm socket was used to remove the center nut.  I was able to
remove it myself (without assistance) using a large ratchet.

I needed the two hex bolts because the steering wheel puller came with
several pairs of bolts, all of which were too big to fit in the tiny
holes in the DeLorean's steering wheel.  I used the washers with the
hex bolts so the force would be more evenly distributed around the
little hex heads -- the puller set was designed for 5/16 or larger
bolts.

It took a little bit of effort, but the steering wheel popped right
off.

Aaron
#1506




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Message: 11
Date: Sat, 7 Aug 2004 19:14:24 -0400
From: "Michael & Denise" <luckeys71_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Slave Cylinder-What's the best way to tackle this?

Hi gang,
I'm trying to replace the slave cylinder on my car and I can't for the life of me figure out how to get to it.  After putting the car on stands and crawling around for 30 minutes underneath it I realized that I could not access it like the shop manual seems to indicate.  From above I can put my hand on the rubber boot but can't seem to see a thing since it's down there a bit.  So I'm once again turning to the experts here in the group for some much needed advice-just how do you get to this darn thing?  My old one is definitely leaking fluid as the boot is wet as well as fluid having dripped onto the transmission.  Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks,
Mike
#3760


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 08 Aug 2004 00:18:57 -0000
From: "Jim Reeve" <jim.reeve_at_dml_wayzata.k12.mn.us>
Subject: Re: The Mask (Final ignition analysis for now)

Rich, I couldn't answer why, but I can tell you my personal 
experience.

When I put a high voltage coil on my car with new complimentary 
ballast resistors, my car ran like crap.  Some of you who were at 
Memphis the day of the car show may remember one car shooting out a 
horrendous gunshot-like backfire.  Well that was my car when I was 
playing around with another high voltage coil thinking my first one 
was bad.  Engine wouldn't rev worth crap.

Then today I'm with Bruce Benson working on Kris Kurth's car.  We 
get a few things figured out, but the engine was still running very 
rough.  Remembering how my car ran with that same coil on, I removed 
my stock coil/resistors and installed them on his car. After that 
the engine ran sooooo much better.  I can't explain it, Bruce 
thought it might have been cross-firing within the distributor from 
the very high voltage.

I just figure I'll keep with my original coil until it dies.

Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
DMC-6960

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> What gives? Why doesn't my car accept any other coil? This is my
> 5th new one. The others were Accel and some no-name brand but this
> one is a Bosch 18k volt coil. A minor upgrade compared to the MSD's
> and Pertronix some of you guys are running.
> 
> One thing's sure: I haven't fixed this problem, only masked it.
> 
> Rich A.
> #5335




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Message: 13
Date: Sun, 08 Aug 2004 01:35:00 -0000
From: "Travis" <armac_at_dml_rocketmail.com>
Subject: Anyone Still Selling "Doc Brown doesnt drive a _at_dml_#$%#! mustang" shirt?

Are the T shirts wth the Bob Gale quote: "Doc Brown doesnt drive a 
_at_dml_#?!# mustang" still available?  I would like to buy one since I 
missed out when we were at the convention in Pigeon Forge. 




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Message: 14
Date: Sat, 7 Aug 2004 18:41:26 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Is John Hervey - Special T Auto Rippin' Me Off?

I totally agree with Enid/Jeremial, John Hervey is somebody whose advice and knowledge is by far the most sharing and honest.  Without his help over the last year I can say I would not have my delorean running!  Despite previously having a local mechanic, G.T CAR CENTER in Ft. Lauderdale causing extensive damage to my delorean, which is OUT OF BUSINESS as of today, thanks in part to me(somewhat).
Anyway, he gives out tons and tons of info.. which is very helpful to the do it yourselfer, like most of us!  Just look _at_dml_ his website, you won't find any of that info.. any where else and for free, to boot!  Be patient it will come back ten fold in knowledge and of course less expensive parts!


Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
John is one of the best DeLorean vendors available. 
No other vendor has on their website as much
literature as he does on his website. I have
literally printed out every "tech" picture he has on
his website and made it a separate "tech advice"
binder that I keep with me. Some vendors hold as many
secrets about the car as they can so they can make a
profit; John GIVES out information and loses a profit.
I don't think I've heard too many other reports like
that about ANY businessman, much the less a DeLorean
vendor.
I have spoke to him for almost 3 hours at a time
over the phone from the rise of DMC to his new
products coming out down to which colored wires go
where and mean what. He is one of the most generous
and helpful DeLorean enthusiasts I have ever met. 
Sometimes, I have been a bit slow on getting things or
money to him, and he has been very understanding with
incredible patience. There is one other thing I
respect - he will tell you if he's stumped on
something. I respect someone who can just tell me "I
really don't know." rather than feed me a bunch of
"Try this.." with no basis for their suggestions. He
is one man you do not want to get off the wrong foot
with. Just be a bit more patient - good things come
to those who are patient.

Jeremiah



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Message: 15
Date: Sat, 7 Aug 2004 21:53:38 -0400
From: "Bill Lane" <blane_at_dml_triad.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Turbos - bad wrap. What's UP!!

I have had a single BAE Turbo on my DeLorean since about 1983.  Although I
only have a little over 25,000 miles on the car, It has never blown smoke
out of the crankcase!  I've heard that this is quite common but I have never
experienced it.

Bill
#3635





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