From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2162
Date: Sunday, August 08, 2004 11:12 PM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Anyone Still Selling "Doc Brown doesnt drive a mustang" shi...
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

2. Re: Slave Cylinder-What's the best way to tackle this?
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

3. Re: Slave Cylinder-What's the best way to tackle this?
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>

4. Re: Slave Cylinder-What's the best way to tackle this?
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

5. Re: Slave Cylinder-What's the best way to tackle this?
From: "Dan RC30" <danrc30_at_dml_hotmail.com>

6. electrical short
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

7. RE: electrical short
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

8. Fixed side window seal
From: "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com>

9. RE: Fixed side window seal
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>

10. Re: Fixed side window seal
From: PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com

11. Re: Fixed side window seal
From: "Jake Kamphoefner" <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

12. Re: Fixed side window seal
From: "Jim Reeve" <jim.reeve_at_dml_wayzata.k12.mn.us>

13. Re: Fixed side window seal
From: "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com>

14. Re: Fixed side window seal
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

15. Re: Slave Cylinder-What's the best way to tackle this?
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

16. Re: Fixed side window seal
From: kevin creason <kcreason77_at_dml_yahoo.com>

17. RE: entertainment/speakers at the show
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

18. John DeLorean's Former Estate
From: DmcGman_at_dml_comcast.net

19. CO Adjustment Screw Pics Uploaded
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

20. Re: Fixed side window seal
From: "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com>

21. Re: Sealing clutch line connections
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

22. Re: Turbos - bad wrap. What's UP!!
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

23. Re: Clear Cooling Hoses
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

24. Re: The Mask (Final ignition analysis for now)
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

25. Re: pilot 25 vin plate
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 7 Aug 2004 23:37:03 EDT
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Anyone Still Selling "Doc Brown doesnt drive a mustang" shi...

In a message dated 8/7/2004 11:12:01 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
armac_at_dml_rocketmail.com writes:
Are the T shirts wth the Bob Gale quote: "Doc Brown doesnt drive a 
_at_dml_#?!# mustang" still available?  I would like to buy one since I 
missed out when we were at the convention in Pigeon Forge.
__
-
Of course they are still for sale 
you can order them at DeLoreancarshow.com 
or just send a check to 4500 Woodland Dr
Mason, Oh 45040
Make the check to DeLorean Car Show 
$10 per shirt and $1.50 postage
We still have magazines, PF Shirts, pins, mousepads
if we made it we still have it.

Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 08 Aug 2004 03:42:02 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: Slave Cylinder-What's the best way to tackle this?

Mike - Any way you look at it, it ain't pretty.   That said, there 
are several ways to skin this particular cat.  One way is to detach 
the fuel injection distributor from its moorings on the intake 
manifold, and prop it up and to the side.  Along with this, removing 
the engine cover can help out quite a bit.  The distributor move is 
best done by also removing the "throttle body" connection, and the 
air runners that attach to the intake at the rear.  Then, you lay 
some heavy padding on the engine, crawl up, and sprawl out on top of 
the engine.  This allows you to get access from the top.  This 
method allows decent slave cylinder bleeding as well, after you 
install the new one (if you don't have gravity bleeding like I do).  
Be sure to put blankets on the fascia, and anywhere else that you're 
concerned with damaging.

The other method is to crawl up from below.  Most of this is done by 
feel, and removing the heater hoses back there is usually required.  
This allows you to swim in coolant for the remainder of the job 
(yummy).  Remember that the pipe that attaches to the slave has an 
adapter fitting and a compression nut.  Never turn the adapter in 
the slave cylinder threads.  Always turn the compression nut while 
holding the adapter fitting with another wrench.

After installation, complete flush of the clutch hydraulic fluid, 
and then a thorough and complete bleed job is critical for long term 
success.  Try not to swear too much while you do this job ;-)

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com      

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Michael & Denise" <luckeys71_at_dml_c...> 
wrote:
> Hi gang,
> I'm trying to replace the slave cylinder on my car and I can't for 
the life of me figure out how to get to it.   




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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 8 Aug 2004 02:43:57 -0400
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>
Subject: Re: Slave Cylinder-What's the best way to tackle this?

I just tackled this seemingly impossible job.  It took small hands ( I have
big ape hands) and patience.  First take off the louvers and the engine
cover and tackle this from above.  Remove the 2 bolts that attach the slave
cylinder and then CAREFULLY remove the pipe the slave is attached to.  I
twisted mine and I had to buy another one.  Then you may have to pry the
clutch fork open a bit to get the slave out.  Then reverse the process and
bleed.  I got my slave from Grady and it was a little beefier than the
original.  I was very happy with it.  Harold M., I owe a lot of thanks
because he helped me bleed it properly.  I still had air in the system. Hope
this helps

Joseph M.
vin 2850
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Michael & Denise" <luckeys71_at_dml_cox.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, August 07, 2004 7:14 PM
Subject: [DML] Slave Cylinder-What's the best way to tackle this?


> Hi gang,
> I'm trying to replace the slave cylinder on my car and I can't for the
life of me figure out how to get to it.  After putting the car on stands and
crawling around for 30 minutes underneath it I realized that I could not
access it like the shop manual seems to indicate.  From above I can put my
hand on the rubber boot but can't seem to see a thing since it's down there
a bit.  So I'm once again turning to the experts here in the group for some
much needed advice-just how do you get to this darn thing?  My old one is
definitely leaking fluid as the boot is wet as well as fluid having dripped
onto the transmission.  Any help would be greatly appreciated!
> Thanks,
> Mike
> #3760
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>





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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 08 Aug 2004 06:57:28 -0000
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Re: Slave Cylinder-What's the best way to tackle this?

If you can get underneath, and get your arm up to the clutch fork, 
you can feel your way up to the slave cylinder.  (Go-Go Gadget-
Arm!)  There are 2 bolts on either side of the 'wings' on it.  These 
hold it to the engine.  If you can manage to get these out, then you 
can remove the metal clutch line from the top of the transmission 
(near where the plastic/braided line attaches).  That's all it 
takes.  
If you can't manage to get your arm up there, sorry to say, but the 
next easiest ways (that I know of) are to either drop the 
transmission, or pull the intake manifold. 

Matt
#1604

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Michael & Denise" <luckeys71_at_dml_c...> 
wrote:
> Hi gang,
> I'm trying to replace the slave cylinder on my car and I can't for 
the life of me figure out how to get to it.  After putting the car 
on stands and crawling around for 30 minutes underneath it I 
realized that I could not access it like the shop manual seems to 
indicate.  From above I can put my hand on the rubber boot but can't 
seem to see a thing since it's down there a bit.  So I'm once again 
turning to the experts here in the group for some much needed advice-
just how do you get to this darn thing?  My old one is definitely 
leaking fluid as the boot is wet as well as fluid having dripped 
onto the transmission.  Any help would be greatly appreciated!
> Thanks,
> Mike
> #3760
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 8 Aug 2004 09:19:40 -0400
From: "Dan RC30" <danrc30_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Slave Cylinder-What's the best way to tackle this?



Mike,
    I've changed slave cylinders while the car was on rear wheel ramps. You
need to be on your back and you have to wrap your arms around the
transmission to locate the bolts to remove them. You can see the side of the
slave from the drivers side of the car if you get the right angle while
you're underneath it. Just follow the metal clutch line from the top of the
transmission and you'll see it. Remove that line first. Then use your hands
to feel around to locate the bolts. Then use your hands to put the socket
wrench on the bolts and begin loosening. You'll get it!

---Evil Dan




Message: 11
Date: Sat, 7 Aug 2004 19:14:24 -0400
From: "Michael & Denise" <luckeys71_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Slave Cylinder-What's the best way to tackle this?

Hi gang,
I'm trying to replace the slave cylinder on my car and I can't for the life
of me figure out how to get to it.  After putting the car on stands and
crawling around for 30 minutes underneath it I realized that I could not
access it like the shop manual seems to indicate.  From above I can put my
hand on the rubber boot but can't seem to see a thing since it's down there
a bit.  So I'm once again turning to the experts here in the group for some
much needed advice-just how do you get to this darn thing?  My old one is
definitely leaking fluid as the boot is wet as well as fluid having dripped
onto the transmission.  Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks,
Mike
#3760





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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 7 Aug 2004 23:58:17 EDT
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: electrical short

I have a few cars that have electrical problems and I am going to start to 
trouble shoot them Sunday.

Neither of these cars has run in years so on the one I even dropped in a new 
engine but I know from the melted fuse box it had problems,

Initial test shows the following symptoms

Fuse 7 gets hot. (fuse box melted)
I never had one do this on a car I had running so I have not looked for it 
yet but it also drains the battery from somewhere and I am willing to bet the 
two are related. I have put in a new fuse box an a new Rob Grady Ground wire in 
the relays. I have yet to put power to the car.


On the other car the #1 fuse blows after the car starts for about 10 secs
I am guessing that the wire that goes through the firewall may be shorting 
out somewhere in the engine but again I have not honestly looked for it. Rob 
helped me start the search and hopefully I can find it quickly. I will be useing 
a meter to determine current flow and the normal resistance checks.

The car does start and run without blowing the fuse if I disconnect the 
Computer connection behind the drivers seat.

Obviously screws up mixture but it starts and runs just fine.

I am posting this since I have not seen it before in a working car and its 
probably easy to trace but this looks like a good one to share info on since I 
have 5 cars that I have redone that the #7 fuse has melted and the harness 
refurb seemed to fix it although I have yet to even look for where the problem was.

Obviously a common problem.  I usually redo the wire harnesses totally on the 
cars before I try to start them and whatever I am doing fixes it but I am 
interested in specifically locating the problem instead of doing a harness refurb.

I figure its a loose connection or something.  When I redo a harness I solder 
it together and the problems go away. New terminals help to.

Ok here is one (actually two) for you diagnostic gurus

Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 8 Aug 2004 10:46:40 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: electrical short

Ken: See below

-----Original Message-----
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com [mailto:kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com]
Sent: Saturday, August 07, 2004 9:58 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] electrical short


I have a few cars that have electrical problems and I am going to start to
trouble shoot them Sunday.

Neither of these cars has run in years so on the one I even dropped in a new
engine but I know from the melted fuse box it had problems,

Initial test shows the following symptoms

Fuse 7 gets hot. (fuse box melted)
I never had one do this on a car I had running so I have not looked for it
yet but it also drains the battery from somewhere and I am willing to bet
the
two are related. I have put in a new fuse box an a new Rob Grady Ground wire
in
the relays. I have yet to put power to the car.
( Most of the time the fuel pump may be getting old and it draws more
current and over a long period of time it will melt #7. Also due to the
flimsy construction and thin contacts of the fuse box it is prone to melt.
The fuse extenders and trying to bend the contacts to touch harder will
help.)


On the other car the #1 fuse blows after the car starts for about 10 secs
I am guessing that the wire that goes through the firewall may be shorting
out somewhere in the engine but again I have not honestly looked for it. Rob
helped me start the search and hopefully I can find it quickly. I will be
useing
a meter to determine current flow and the normal resistance checks.
( Ken, #1 Green wire, Besides supplying power to the Idle ECU, Vacuum
Solenoid, Ignition ECU, and RPM relay there is a lot of places to look.)

The car does start and run without blowing the fuse if I disconnect the
Computer connection behind the drivers seat.

Obviously screws up mixture but it starts and runs just fine.

I am posting this since I have not seen it before in a working car and its
probably easy to trace but this looks like a good one to share info on since
I
have 5 cars that I have redone that the #7 fuse has melted and the harness
refurb seemed to fix it although I have yet to even look for where the
problem was.
( If you put in a fuse extender before the fuse and socket melts then it
won't.)

Obviously a common problem.  I usually redo the wire harnesses totally on
the
cars before I try to start them and whatever I am doing fixes it but I am
interested in specifically locating the problem instead of doing a harness
refurb.

I figure its a loose connection or something.  When I redo a harness I
solder
it together and the problems go away. New terminals help to.

Ok here is one (actually two) for you diagnostic gurus

Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Yahoo! Groups Links









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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Sun, 08 Aug 2004 19:39:16 -0000
From: "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com>
Subject: Fixed side window seal

I finished re-installing my refinished toll both window trim this 
weekend. On my '81 the metal trim separating the fixed glass from 
the tollboth window needed to be refinished and in the process I 
thought I'd fix something that had been bugging me for a while.

On my late '83 DeLorean, there is nicely profiled rubber gasket 
between the metal trim piece and the fixed glass, while on my 
late '81 it appeared to have been glued in with RTV sealant and 
looked like crap. I hadn't taken close note of others' cars, but I 
had presumed that my '81 had been broken into and had an amateur 
repair job done. To my surprise, at the recent tech session I took 
note and it appeared that all the cars (sampling of 4 or 5) had the 
same crappy-looking RTV sealant between the tollbooth trim and the 
fixed glass instead of a rubber seal/gasket.

My '81 now has a nicely profiled gasket like my '83 and it looks 
much sharper now, but I'm curious what the cutoff is for cars that 
do or don't have the profiled gasket. Do everyone's '81 cars have 
RTV sealant between the metal trim piece and the fixed glass instead 
of a rubber seal/gasket? Is the seal/gasket only present on '83?

     Knut
 




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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 8 Aug 2004 15:15:06 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>
Subject: RE: Fixed side window seal

August 1981
002981

Crappy Black RTV used.

Scott Mueller 002981


-----Original Message-----
From: ksgrimsr [mailto:knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com] 
Sent: Sunday, August 08, 2004 2:39 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Fixed side window seal


I finished re-installing my refinished toll both window trim this 
weekend. On my '81 the metal trim separating the fixed glass from 
the tollboth window needed to be refinished and in the process I 
thought I'd fix something that had been bugging me for a while.

On my late '83 DeLorean, there is nicely profiled rubber gasket 
between the metal trim piece and the fixed glass, while on my 
late '81 it appeared to have been glued in with RTV sealant and 
looked like crap. I hadn't taken close note of others' cars, but I 
had presumed that my '81 had been broken into and had an amateur 
repair job done. To my surprise, at the recent tech session I took 
note and it appeared that all the cars (sampling of 4 or 5) had the 
same crappy-looking RTV sealant between the tollbooth trim and the 
fixed glass instead of a rubber seal/gasket.

My '81 now has a nicely profiled gasket like my '83 and it looks 
much sharper now, but I'm curious what the cutoff is for cars that 
do or don't have the profiled gasket. Do everyone's '81 cars have 
RTV sealant between the metal trim piece and the fixed glass instead 
of a rubber seal/gasket? Is the seal/gasket only present on '83?

     Knut
 




To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
Yahoo! Groups Links



 




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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 8 Aug 2004 16:28:58 EDT
From: PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Fixed side window seal

My early '81 has the RTV and does look a little cheezy with all of the little 
parts of RTV sticking out around the tolbooth window seal.   I would take a 
razor and trim them off, but I am sure that it would start leaking on me.   :)  
 I think I will leave it alone.

Patrick
1880


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 8 Aug 2004 15:47:34 -0500
From: "Jake Kamphoefner" <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Fixed side window seal

Hi Knut,

Could you post of picture of this?  I'm not sure which portion you're
talking about.  (I may not understand because I don't have it!)

Jake

[I'll take a picture later today and post this evening -- Knut]


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 08, 2004 2:39 PM
Subject: [DML] Fixed side window seal


> I finished re-installing my refinished toll both window trim this
> weekend. On my '81 the metal trim separating the fixed glass from
> the tollboth window needed to be refinished and in the process I
> thought I'd fix something that had been bugging me for a while.
>
> On my late '83 DeLorean, there is nicely profiled rubber gasket
> between the metal trim piece and the fixed glass, while on my
> late '81 it appeared to have been glued in with RTV sealant and
> looked like crap. I hadn't taken close note of others' cars, but I
> had presumed that my '81 had been broken into and had an amateur
> repair job done. To my surprise, at the recent tech session I took
> note and it appeared that all the cars (sampling of 4 or 5) had the
> same crappy-looking RTV sealant between the tollbooth trim and the
> fixed glass instead of a rubber seal/gasket.
>
> My '81 now has a nicely profiled gasket like my '83 and it looks
> much sharper now, but I'm curious what the cutoff is for cars that
> do or don't have the profiled gasket. Do everyone's '81 cars have
> RTV sealant between the metal trim piece and the fixed glass instead
> of a rubber seal/gasket? Is the seal/gasket only present on '83?
>
>      Knut
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Sun, 08 Aug 2004 22:18:51 -0000
From: "Jim Reeve" <jim.reeve_at_dml_wayzata.k12.mn.us>
Subject: Re: Fixed side window seal

My late '81 (Nov. '81 build, Vin 06960) has the rubber finishing 
seal.

Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
DMC-6960

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_i...> 
wrote:
but I'm curious what the cutoff is for cars that 
> do or don't have the profiled gasket. Do everyone's '81 cars have 
> RTV sealant between the metal trim piece and the fixed glass 
instead 
> of a rubber seal/gasket? Is the seal/gasket only present on '83?
> 
>      Knut




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Sun, 08 Aug 2004 22:22:15 -0000
From: "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com>
Subject: Re: Fixed side window seal

I uploaded a couple images to the photos section (it's in the main 
directory and not in a subfolder). In the images the tollbooth 
window trim looks more grey than black, but this is just an image 
artifact from the reflection of the white shop that the picture was 
taken in. The seal I referred to in my earlier message is between 
the upper fixed portion of the window and the metal separator for 
the tollbooth window. In the images you can see the profiled seal 
that is installed on my car now -- this used to be crappy-looking 
RTV.

     Knut


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Jake Kamphoefner" <jakekamp_at_dml_s...> 
wrote:
> Hi Knut,
> 
> Could you post of picture of this?  I'm not sure which portion 
you're
> talking about.  (I may not understand because I don't have it!)
> 
> Jake
> 
> [I'll take a picture later today and post this evening -- Knut]
> 
> 

<snip>




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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 09 Aug 2004 00:05:09 -0000
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Re: Fixed side window seal

Probably starting to get a little obvious by now, but #1604 has the 
black slop too.  When I first got my car, in it's 27,000 mile 
condition, it seriously looked like it had been vandalized by someone 
with a tube of black RTV.  I mean it was everywhere, the door and 
window seals, the torsion bars, and throughout the fiberglass 
sections.

Matt
#1604 - sloppy RTV and all




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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 09 Aug 2004 00:55:11 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Slave Cylinder-What's the best way to tackle this?

The reason you can't find it from below is because the exhaust
crossover pipe is in the way -- a truly evil piece of engineering. If
you can remove it (mine came off without snapping the studs), you'll
be looking right at not only the slave cylinder, but the ignition
distributor, the coolant vacuum switch and lines, the heater core
shutoff valve, and all sorts of other normally buried goodies. 

I removed my exhaust crossover pipe nuts with a week of penetrating
oil, a quick zap with MAPP gas in the plumber's torch, then they spun
right off with a 3/8" socket wrench (no cheater -- there isn't room).
Replace them with stainless nuts for easier future removal (are common
10x1.25mm).

I seem to recall the head of the diver's side CO measuring bung bolt
is in the way -- remove it first.

Once you get the crossover pipe off, I guarantee you'll never work on
any of those items from above again. No joke -- you'll be looking
right at them (fuel/air mixture unit will still need to rise up an
inch or so to get the wires off). You can even look across the Valley
of Death. With an inspection mirror you could probably see down into
it. Or simply reach in and feel with your hands for coolant leaks.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Michael & Denise" <luckeys71_at_dml_c...>
wrote:
> Hi gang,
> I'm trying to replace the slave cylinder on my car and I can't for
the life of me figure out how to get to it.  After putting the car on
stands and crawling around for 30 minutes underneath it I realized
that I could not access it like the shop manual seems to indicate. 
>From above I can put my hand on the rubber boot but can't seem to see
a thing since it's down there a bit.  So I'm once again turning to the
experts here in the group for some much needed advice-just how do you
get to this darn thing?  My old one is definitely leaking fluid as the
boot is wet as well as fluid having dripped onto the transmission. 
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
> Thanks,
> Mike
> #3760
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Sun, 8 Aug 2004 18:10:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: kevin creason <kcreason77_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Fixed side window seal

October '81 (#4687, early in the month I think), RTV.
No wonder it leaks in heavy Houston rain.

The other seals around the fixed window are also
problematic. I took 'er through a touchless carwash
last week for the first time. Boy was I surprised at
the drips from the windows.
I guess I'll have to do all new seals, all the way
around.


--- ksgrimsr <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com> wrote:

> I finished re-installing my refinished toll both
> window trim this 
> weekend. On my '81 the metal trim separating the
> fixed glass from 
> the tollboth window needed to be refinished and in
> the process I 
> thought I'd fix something that had been bugging me
> for a while.
> 
> On my late '83 DeLorean, there is nicely profiled
> rubber gasket 
> between the metal trim piece and the fixed glass,
> while on my 
> late '81 it appeared to have been glued in with RTV
> sealant and 
> looked like crap. I hadn't taken close note of
> others' cars, but I 
> had presumed that my '81 had been broken into and
> had an amateur 
> repair job done. To my surprise, at the recent tech
> session I took 
> note and it appeared that all the cars (sampling of
> 4 or 5) had the 
> same crappy-looking RTV sealant between the
> tollbooth trim and the 
> fixed glass instead of a rubber seal/gasket.
> 
> My '81 now has a nicely profiled gasket like my '83
> and it looks 
> much sharper now, but I'm curious what the cutoff is
> for cars that 
> do or don't have the profiled gasket. Do everyone's
> '81 cars have 
> RTV sealant between the metal trim piece and the
> fixed glass instead 
> of a rubber seal/gasket? Is the seal/gasket only
> present on '83?
> 
>      Knut
>  
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
>     dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> 
>  
> 
> 


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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Sun, 08 Aug 2004 20:41:11 -0500
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: entertainment/speakers at the show

When Jim Prentice spoke, they played some photos.
Can I get copies of these emailed to me?

I need ANY and ALL photos used at the show that I can get!

Let me know how I can make this happen.
If they need to be mailed I will pay any expenses.
- Videobob





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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Sun, 08 Aug 2004 23:45:23 +0000
From: DmcGman_at_dml_comcast.net
Subject: John DeLorean's Former Estate

Just thought I would share this with the group.  I was at John DeLorean's former estate today in Bedminster NJ, which is now the Trump International Golf Club.  The golf course is really something.  They are still working on the grounds and many areas of the former estate.  They have really invested a large amount of money and effort into the original buildings of the estate.  John's Georgia Style Mansion is the main clubhouse.  They have redone it into an extremely elegant bulging inside.  The outside looks as it did when I visited John there, when he still lived there, about 6 years ago.  They have also kept the original detached row of garages and made it into the pro shop, with windows instead of garage doors.  The horse areas and buildings and domes are also still there.  It is a private club and I was invited by a member who is a friend of mine.  It is certainly top of the line in every aspect.  Its sad to see that it is now a golf course, compared to how it was when JZD lived there.  In any event I must say it is nice to see his mansion and out-buildings preserved and restored, and maintaining their original appearance.  
Gary Gore
DeLorean Mid Atlantic
www.deloreanmidatlantic.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Mon, 09 Aug 2004 01:13:01 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: CO Adjustment Screw Pics Uploaded

*FINALLY* uploaded pics of the CO adjustment screw to #5939's photo
album (deleted the CoverCraft car cover pics to make room). Notice the
fuel/air mixture unit has unequal sized bungs for the pivot shaft --
compression spring on one side only (lost the other snap ring when it
shot off into the bushes). Pivot shaft is NOT pressed in -- you can
slide it by hand.

Bill Robertson
#5939





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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Mon, 09 Aug 2004 02:29:00 -0000
From: "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com>
Subject: Re: Fixed side window seal

I have received a couple helpful comments and followup questions 
about the side window seal I'm taling about, so instead of leaving 
everyone guessing I thought I'd include a few more details.

The part for the seal in question does not appear in my parts manual 
(and probably not in yours either). The helpful DMCH folks didn't 
have any trouble finding it based on the description, and from the 
packing slip it appears the part number is 110731 (it is listed in 
the DMCH web site, but it is not depicted in the corresponding parts 
manual figure).

>From the notes I have received thus far, it appears that if there is 
a cutoff, it is between VIN 6251 and 6292.

Removing/refinishing the metal window channel and installing the 
seal is not a particulaly difficult task, although it may try your 
patience. It took me several beers over the course of an afternoon 
to get it all together again.

Removal is tedious but straightforward. Start by removing the inside 
upper door panel using the usual procedure. Then remove the upper 
window retaining bracket that sits along the windowsill. 
Incidentally, this bracket holds the "fuzzy caterpillar" that is the 
inside velvet trim that brushes up against the window. On my car, 
the fuzz was peeing off the backing and looked pretty shabby (I have 
seen a lot of other cars that have the same issue). Use the 
opportunity to fix that issue while you're at it.

The metal channel is held in place with a pop-rivet at either end. 
Carefully drill the heads off the pop-rivets in order to liberate 
the ends. The tedious parts starts with cutting the RTV away from 
both the inside and ourtside of the channel sufficiently for the 
metal channel to let go of the fixed glass. I found that a lot of 
work with an EXacto knife (and going through a number of blades) 
works OK with sufficient patience. I also found a piece of metal 
wire embedded in both of my channels that functioned like a zip cord 
in liberating the metal channel from the fixed glass (not sure 
that's what it was for, but I was removing it all anyway). After a 
number of beers and a lot of patience cutting, the metal channel can 
be pulled loose.

Send the metal channel off for bead-blasting and powdercoating using 
a semi-gloss black finish. You could do some sanding followed by a 
spray with a rattle-can special (Krylon) to refinish the trim, but 
for as tedious as the work is there's no point in cutting corners.

Re-installing the metal channel and seal can also be tedious, 
although not difficult. Instead of using pop-rivets for the ends of 
the metal channel, I merely tapped the holes to a convenient size 
and used machine screws. I'm sure sheet metal screws would work fine 
as well (or you could use pop-rivets again). Be careful to ensure 
your screws are short enough to avoid putting a dimple in the 
exterior skin.

The seal is a bit unwieldy to get seated. Starting at the front 
corner, I got the seal started. Using a small non-sharp implement (I 
used a miniature screwdriver that had the blade blunted) you'll need 
to run it along the edge between the glass and the seal on both the 
inside and outside in order to get the glass to slip into the seal 
without bunching the seal down into the groove. After I got the one 
end started with some progress, I fastened the retaining screw for 
that end. It's then a matter of working your way all along the 
length of the strip. Because of the shape, you'll have to get the 
opposite side started when you get halfway and then work your way 
towards the center.

Like I said, it's a little tedious, but it's not difficult and I 
find that the results are a nice visual improvement and make the car 
appear much more finished.

As always, the usual disclaimers apply.

             Knut


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, kevin creason <kcreason77_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:
> October '81 (#4687, early in the month I think), RTV.
> No wonder it leaks in heavy Houston rain.
> 
> The other seals around the fixed window are also
> problematic. I took 'er through a touchless carwash
> last week for the first time. Boy was I surprised at
> the drips from the windows.
> I guess I'll have to do all new seals, all the way
> around.
> 
> 
> --- ksgrimsr <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_i...> wrote:
> 
> > I finished re-installing my refinished toll both
> > window trim this 
> > weekend. On my '81 the metal trim separating the
> > fixed glass from 
> > the tollboth window needed to be refinished and in
> > the process I 
> > thought I'd fix something that had been bugging me
> > for a while.
> > 
> > On my late '83 DeLorean, there is nicely profiled
> > rubber gasket 
> > between the metal trim piece and the fixed glass,
> > while on my 
> > late '81 it appeared to have been glued in with RTV
> > sealant and 
> > looked like crap. I hadn't taken close note of
> > others' cars, but I 
> > had presumed that my '81 had been broken into and
> > had an amateur 
> > repair job done. To my surprise, at the recent tech
> > session I took 
> > note and it appeared that all the cars (sampling of
> > 4 or 5) had the 
> > same crappy-looking RTV sealant between the
> > tollbooth trim and the 
> > fixed glass instead of a rubber seal/gasket.
> > 
> > My '81 now has a nicely profiled gasket like my '83
> > and it looks 
> > much sharper now, but I'm curious what the cutoff is
> > for cars that 
> > do or don't have the profiled gasket. Do everyone's
> > '81 cars have 
> > RTV sealant between the metal trim piece and the
> > fixed glass instead 
> > of a rubber seal/gasket? Is the seal/gasket only
> > present on '83?
> > 
> >      Knut
> >  
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > To address comments privately to the moderating
> > team, please address:
> > moderators_at_dml_d...
> > 
> > For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> > sale see www.dmcnews.com
> > 
> > To search the archives or view files, log in at
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > 
> > 
> >     dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > 
> 
> 
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
> http://mail.yahoo.com




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 21
Date: Mon, 09 Aug 2004 02:58:08 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Sealing clutch line connections

The odds are that you will need to rebuild the master and slave clutch
cylinders to fix the leak. When you bled it with the fresh fluid you
damaged the internal seals on the corrosion inside.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Joshua Weader" <weader_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> 
> I recently replaced the part of the clutch line that connects to the
slave
> cylinder.   I tightened both ends down (I thought), and bled the line. 
> Everything seemed to be holding together well - took the car for a
short test
> drive, and didn't notice any leaks.
> 
> Fast forward 24 hours: I came out the next morning to find a puddle
of clutch
> fluid under the car, and the reservoir empty.  I couldn't really
tell which
> end of the clutch pipe it had leaked out from.  Is there something that
> normally gets put on the fittings to keep it from leaking?  Or did I
just not
> tighten them quite enough?  I was under the impression that just
tightening
> the fittings enough would seal them.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> --Josh
> #5553
> 
> ---------------------------------------------
> "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty: soap,
> ballot, jury, and ammo.  Please use in that order." - Ed Howdershelt




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 22
Date: Mon, 09 Aug 2004 03:11:53 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Turbos - bad wrap. What's UP!!

>From all these posts on turbos it seems that some people are happy
with the setup, especally with certain modifacations like water
injection. I suggest that the people that are happy with their setups
document them so the people that have problems can compare notes and
maybe improve their instalations. It seems that the Island setup can
be improved with  water injection so this is something that should be
investigated further. I also figure timming is a major issue. It would
be good to document exactly what the base timing is and the advance.
Also how the "vacuum" advance is taken care of. There should also be a
measurement of the blowby (crankcase) pressure. How much boost is each
person using and what is their general level above sea level? As Mark
mentioned you can use more boost at higher levels above sea level than
someone at sea level without damage. This is why forced induction was
used in the first place. In aircraft it allowes the internal combution
engine to operate at great heights above sea level without a loss of
power.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> I have never had the pleasure of driving a turbo Delorean.
> However if I had one I can assure you the engine would be toast
right now.
> Most of the people who have these turbos must have them adjusted
very low, 
> and
> drive real nicey like and don't push the engine too hard.
> I can betchya I could blow your engine the first day.
> Where as, the stock engine is so choked and governed that it would
be tough.
> You would have to put it in 1st and floor it all day until it over
heated.
> 
> I can't wait to get the DVD finished from Pigeon Forge,
> When Fred Deliis spoke about these turbos, he said that under
testing most 





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 23
Date: Mon, 09 Aug 2004 03:01:18 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Clear Cooling Hoses

When I installed the metal header bottle I toyed with the idea of
using a short piece of clear hose with 2 fittings, one on top and one
on bottom so I could see the fluid level. I found that there was no
clear tubing that could last with the temperatures and pressures that
the cooling system operates with. I installed an overflow tank instead.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> One other thing...it has to withstand the clamping force of
automotive hose 
> clamps without extruding through the slots most such clamps have.
> 
> -Joe Kuchan
> 
> 
> >From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_p...>
> >Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> >To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> >Subject: [DML] Clear Cooling Hoses
> >Date: Fri, 06 Aug 2004 00:08:47 -0000
> >
> >I was in Lowes Home Improvement yesterday and saw this 1.25" clear
> >PVC braided hose.




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 24
Date: Mon, 09 Aug 2004 03:16:20 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: The Mask (Final ignition analysis for now)

>From your description it sounds like you are not getting the full
mechanical advance. Take the distributer apart and clean the
mechanical advance and check the springs inside. Maybe they are not
correct. Next check the vacuum hoses for the vacuum advance that they
are not hard, cracked, leaking, or hooked up wrong.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Ok, figure this one out:
> 
> With the wife and kids out of town, I've had nothing but 2 glorious
> days of peace to ponder this issue. I've been feeling the behavior of
> the car while driving to and from work. Something keeps drawing me
> back to timing advance; Too much, too little, too fast (missing
> weights or springs), too slow (gummed up inside)...not sure which.
> 
> I came home today and whipped out my shiny, new timing light and 
> began to
> examine the vacuum advance in detail. If I'm doing it right, it only
> seems to do 2 steps of advance, and too much of it but again, I want
> someone to read the tach while I do this. Maybe I'm not gentle enough.
> 
> 1100-ish RPM's: 10 OR 20 degrees. (I was trying to get off of the
> micro switch.)
> 1500-ish RPM's: off the scale, say around 40 degrees. The manual
> calls for: 20 degrees at 15" Hg, incrementing in 3 steps, not two.
> 
> I then proceeded to take some of Martin's G's advice and try to clean
> out the dizzy again in case something was gummed up. I sprayed a
> little contact cleaner in the distributor because I've seen it eat
> varnish and gunk off of electrical items so well. This was an -
> instant- improvement, but still at about 1/2 to 3/4 of pedal travel
> there was bogging now combined with "herk 'n jerk". When I feather
> the throttle, it now has much better acceleration than it did before
> I sprayed the cleaner in the dizzy, as long as I don't exceed
> that "bog point" with the throttle pedal. (BTW: the "bog point" moves
> closer to the floor, the higher the RPM'S so you can slowly press the
> pedal down as you accelerate, just don't "overtake" the timing)
> 
> Still not satisfied, but having a suspicion, I put my old, blue coil
> in yet again, with the old ballast resistor, and what happens?
> Flawless. Not a stutter, jerk or stumble. Full power pulling away,
> and full power with the pedal to the floor. At least it's running
> correctly now.
> 
> What gives? Why doesn't my car accept any other coil? This is my
> 5th new one. The others were Accel and some no-name brand but this
> one is a Bosch 18k volt coil. A minor upgrade compared to the MSD's
> and Pertronix some of you guys are running.
> 
> One thing's sure: I haven't fixed this problem, only masked it.
> 
> Rich A.
> #5335




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 25
Date: Mon, 09 Aug 2004 03:20:00 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: pilot 25 vin plate

Check on the frame on the rearmost section on the left side near the
muffler, on production cars there is a plate with the frame #. You can
easily see it from underneath looking up. It may not be on your car
but then again maybe it is. It is opposite the sender for the oil
light on the left side of the motor.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "alistairmccann" <alistairmccann_at_dml_y...>
wrote:
> Hi Folks
> 
> Further to questions, I checked the whole car today and found only 
> one other tag that is on the engine which reads 000000197.
> 
> Other than the tag on the dashboard this is the only other number on 
> the car.
> 
> The car tax office over here did a quick check on the car last week 
> using the old records they still had on file and just updated the 
> info with my details - They were also able to give me the original 
> number plate back aswell which is great as the number "RIA 7124" is 
> a main part of the car as there are loads of pictures of it in the 
> GOLD PORTFOLIO (pages 41-42-43-67-78-80-81)
> 
> Cheers for all the emails
> 
> Alistair.




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


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