From: <>
To: <>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2163
Date: Monday, August 09, 2004 3:38 AM

There are 2 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Setting HC / CO with a Gas Analyzer?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <>

2. Re: electrical short
From: "David Teitelbaum" <>

Message: 1
Date: Mon, 09 Aug 2004 03:26:08 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <>
Subject: Re: Setting HC / CO with a Gas Analyzer?

To do it properly you have to remove the plugs on the ports before the
catalytic converter. You need to make a setup like in the manual, you
need metal hoses, the heat will destroy rubber or plastic. Make sure
you plug the hole over the mixture screw and wait for the readings to
settle. Aim for the 1% CO. You have to disconnect the O2 sensor so the
Lambda will go "open mode" or you will be aiming at a "moving target"
as the Lambda fluctuates and tries to compensate for what you are doing.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In, "Dave Stragand" <dave.stragand_at_dml_f...>
> Hi All,
> Just wanted to see what all anyone has to say about setting the CO
with an
> analyzer.  We'll be doing several tomorrow at the Pittsburgh tech
> (possibly over 18 cars attending -- WOW!!!)
> The book has you set CO to 1%, at 950 RPMs with the O2 sensor
> That is so that it sets CO in the middle of the range so the lambda
> can compensate a bit either way.
> Assuming we do -not- disconnect the O2 sensor, and test at idle,
what should
> the proper setting for CO be?  Warren at DMC Houston said around 0.5
- 0.6%,
> as running it down near 0% might be a bit lean.
> Pennsylvania emissions has CO 1.2% and 200 ppm HC as limits for
1981, and I
> imagine anything under 1% CO would be fine just about everywhere.  Any
> suggestions on exactly where percantage-wise that the CO should be set?
> Thanks!
> -Dave Stragand
> VIN #05927
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 2
Date: Mon, 09 Aug 2004 03:37:32 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <>
Subject: Re: electrical short

If Fuse # 1 blows try disconnecting the idle ECU and the vacuum
solenoid and if the car still runs and doesn't blow the fuse then you
know where to look.
For fuse # 7 it means the fuel pump is dying and drawing too much
current. It can also mean that the battery is chronically low which
causes the electrical system to draw too much current. Clean all the
connections in the fuel pump circuit. If you can disconnect the Lambda
ECU and the fuse doesn't blow then try disconnecting the freq valve
and leave the computer hooked up. I am guessing the freq valve is
drawing too much current. Either it is bad or the conncetions need to
be cleaned. The main problem is that since the cars have not run in
years every electrical connection should be cleaned to fix and prevent
these kinds of problems.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757   

-- In, "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> Ken: See below
> -----Original Message-----
> From: kKoncelik_at_dml_a... [mailto:kKoncelik_at_dml_a...]
> Sent: Saturday, August 07, 2004 9:58 PM
> To:
> Subject: [DML] electrical short


To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see

To search the archives or view files, log in at
Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: