From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2170
Date: Thursday, August 12, 2004 5:34 PM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. RE: Do fuel accumulators die overnight??... I'm stumped here.
From: "Gary Hull" <Specialty_at_dml_IN2TIME.com>

2. Re: Commercial Postings on the DML ....In Defense Of
From: Rod Dillman <rhdillman_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. RE: flooding
From: "PJ Grady" <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>

4. RE: Slave Cylinder-Argggh!
From: "PJ Grady" <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>

5. RE: Question about the ignition system
From: "Gary Hull" <Specialty_at_dml_IN2TIME.com>

6. Re: Greasy, cloudy windows
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

7. Re: Greasy, cloudy windows
From: "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_cox.net>

8. Re: Slave Cylinder-Argggh!
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>

9. Re: Slave Cylinder-Argggh!
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

10. Re: flooding
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

11. Re: Question about the ignition system
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

12. Re: Do fuel accumulators die overnight??... I'm stumped here.
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

13. Re: Greasy, cloudy windows
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

14. Re: Commercial Postings on the DML ....In Defense Of
From: DBoboc9556_at_dml_aol.com

15. Re: Greasy, cloudy windows
From: "aaron_t_graham" <aaron_t_graham_at_dml_yahoo.com>

16. Re: Interior LED lights
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>

17. Re: flooding
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

18. Re: Slave Cylinder-Argggh!
From: "usndmc" <usndmc_at_dml_yahoo.com>

19. Re: Interior LED lights
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

20. RE: Question about the ignition system
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

21. RE: Re: Complete LED kit for the car - ALL BULBS
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

22. RE: Interior LED lights
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

23. Re: Do fuel accumulators die overnight??... I'm stumped here.
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com>

24. Early '81 VIN 961 going up for sale
From: "argent486" <mmetzinger_at_dml_deloreanalley.org>

25. Still -more- ignition nonsense....
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2004 08:34:38 -0700
From: "Gary Hull" <Specialty_at_dml_IN2TIME.com>
Subject: RE: Do fuel accumulators die overnight??... I'm stumped here.

These are classic symptoms of a bad fuel accumulator.

>If I allow it to cool for say 4 or 5 hours and it 
>is still luke warmish it won't start unless I crank
>on it or give it a shot of ether. After it starts it 
>has a rough backfire and a miss when I give it gas hard.

Gary
IN2TIME




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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2004 08:35:40 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rod Dillman <rhdillman_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Commercial Postings on the DML ....In Defense Of

I agree that commercial posts are helpful and interesting. 



Richard <dmc_driver_at_dml_yahoo.ca> wrote:
, I felt I had to add my 2cents here. It seems that some of you are against solicitation and commercial posts while others are OK with it. As for me, I LIKE
the commercial posts. If there's a new product available for our
little silver cars I want to know about it!



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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2004 12:06:07 -0400
From: "PJ Grady" <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>
Subject: RE: flooding

Fred,

Your plugs are most likely fouled. When was the last time you did a tune up?
(Plugs, cap, rotor, wires) Give me a call at 631-589-6224

Anthony
P.J. Grady Inc

-----Original Message-----
From: ford565656565656 [mailto:ford565656565656_at_dml_yahoo.com] 
Subject: [DML] flooding

My '81 DeLorean floods so bad that I cannot start it using the 
starter motor.  But if I tow it up to 10-15 MPH, it starts up and 
runs great.



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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2004 12:10:17 -0400
From: "PJ Grady" <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>
Subject: RE: Slave Cylinder-Argggh!

Mike,

Do you have a work shop manual? 

Anthony
www.pjgrady.com


-----Original Message-----
From: Michael & Denise [mailto:luckeys71_at_dml_cox.net] 
Subject: [DML] Slave Cylinder-Argggh!

Hi gang,
After struggling for 2 days to try and replace the slave cylinder I've come
to the regrettable conclusion that this is something I cannot do.



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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2004 08:32:03 -0700
From: "Gary Hull" <Specialty_at_dml_IN2TIME.com>
Subject: RE: Question about the ignition system

Toby seems to have one (or two) at DeLorean-Parts.com.  Just enter ignition
switch in the search.

Gary
IN2TIME

-----Original Message-----
From: Enid/Jeremiah [mailto:hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com] 
Subject: [DML] Question about the ignition system

Hey there,

Quick question(s).  One of my most dreaded thoughts
has been if the ignition switch (#106679) ever goes
out.  Has anyone come up with some interesting ways
around this problem other than scowering all known
DeLorean owners/vendors for another one?



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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2004 16:44:18 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Greasy, cloudy windows

Sounds like "the Fog" (leaking heater core). People call it Fog, but
it's really more of a slime. Is caused by ethyl glycol against cold
glass, which usually makes it a winter time phenomenon (I've never
encountered it in the summer). Perhaps A/C is chilling the glass enough.

If it is a leaking heater core, for now you can simply unplug the two
heater core hoses at the firewall and tie them together with a 5/8"
barb or barrel connector (or a short piece of pipe). That will keep
antifreeze out of the passenger compartment. Will only lose the
ability to regulate A/C temp (need to repair before this winter
however if you want any heat).  

If your heater core does indeed need to come out, the bad news is DMC
followed traditional production line techniques: started with a heater
core and built the remainder of the vehicle around it. I jest of
course, but that is the way it seems when you have to disassemble so
much of the dash to get to it.

Bill Robertson
#5939 


>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_f...> wrote:
> For some reason, I can not get my windows clean. Every time I clean
them, with soap and water, windex, armor all window wipes, invisible glass,
> etc... within about 4 days, they're so cloudy that they're bordering on
> dangerous.



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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2004 16:44:00 -0000
From: "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Greasy, cloudy windows

If you have an anti-freeze leak in the heater core, it can do that.

Johnny
5518


> For some reason, I can not get my windows clean. Every time I clean 
them,
> with soap and water, windex, armor all window wipes, invisible 
glass,
> etc... within about 4 days, they're so cloudy that they're 
bordering on
> dangerous.





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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2004 12:46:08 -0400
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Slave Cylinder-Argggh!

Lets see,
I live 20 minutes from your house, you have my phone number, you have my
email address, my answering machine is working, oh my god I left my axe
murderers hat on again.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Michael & Denise" <luckeys71_at_dml_cox.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 11, 2004 10:01 PM
Subject: [DML] Slave Cylinder-Argggh!


I'm making a plea to any member of the group with knowledge of removing this
part who is near the Tidewater area of Virginia and would like to earn some
money for their expertise to please contact me off-line.





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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2004 16:52:12 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Slave Cylinder-Argggh!

I live ~50 miles south of Fayetteville NC. My philosophy is not to do
work for others, but to help them do it themselves ("Teach a man to
fish..."). Contact me off List: brobertson(at)carolina.net.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Michael & Denise" <luckeys71_at_dml_c...>
wrote:
> Hi gang,
> After struggling for 2 days to try and replace the slave cylinder
I've come to the regrettable conclusion that this is something I
cannot do.  I'm making a plea to any member of the group with
knowledge of removing this part



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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2004 16:54:29 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: flooding

I would start by checking the cold start valve system. Maybe you have
the plugs for the control pressure regulater and the cold start valve
mixed up. You could also have the mixture screw way out of adjustment
and/or vacuum leaks. Make sure that there is nothing plugged into the
hot start relay plug by the fuseblock.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "ford565656565656"
<ford565656565656_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> My '81 DeLorean floods so bad that I cannot start it using the 
> starter motor.  But if I tow it up to 10-15 MPH, it starts up and 
> runs great.



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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2004 17:00:02 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Question about the ignition system

The ignition switch itself does not seem to be a high failure item. Of
course if someone modified the wiring and created too large a current
draw through the ignition switch all bets are off. The lock part of
the ignition switch is subject to wear. Do not force the key, do not
use a cheap aluminum blank which can break and do not force the key,
always insert it in at the correct angle. Regular lubrication will
help a lot. If the ignition switch itself failed electrically you
could jump it out by unplugging it and using paper clips, "hot wire"
the car. You would still need the key to unlock the steering wheel so
you could turn the wheels.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_y...>
wrote:
> Hey there,
> 
> Quick question(s).  One of my most dreaded thoughts
> has been if the ignition switch (#106679) ever goes
> out. 



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Message: 12
Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2004 17:04:43 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Do fuel accumulators die overnight??... I'm stumped here.

To verify a bad fuel accumulater just remove the small hose that comes
off the end (in the center of the end opposite the 2 connections). If
fuel comes out of the accumulater when you run the pump then the
diaphram inside is bad. You "could" have a problem with the CPR but I
think it is more likely the thermo-time switch which controls the cold
start valve. Jumper it when the motor is cold and see what happens.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Or do they gradually start to die? All the ones I have dealt with 
> seem to just not allow the car to start when hot.
> 
> The problem is that I think mine might be starting to die... maybe.
> 





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Message: 13
Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2004 17:12:00 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Greasy, cloudy windows

You have something in the car giving off vapors. It could be some kind
of product that was used on the interior, maybe the car was flooded
and the moisture keeps fogging things up, or a leaking heater core. If
you are adding coolant then it may be leaking out the heater. Pull the
seats and carpet out and dry everything throughly. Make sure there is
no mildew. Wipe the interior surfaces with alcohol. You can also try
Rainex window anti-fogger. The battery won't do this. If it is giving
off gasses like this from being overcharged it would be burning your
eyes and melting everything inside. Do not use Aromor-All inside the
car. Especailly on the dash and binnacle where you do not want shiny
reflections in the windscreen. Use Windex instead for cleaning and dust.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_f...> wrote:
> For some reason, I can not get my windows clean. Every time I clean
them, with soap and water, windex, armor all window wipes, invisible glass,
> etc... within about 4 days, they're so cloudy that they're bordering on
> dangerous.



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Message: 14
Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2004 13:13:21 EDT
From: DBoboc9556_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Commercial Postings on the DML ....In Defense Of

The only thing I mind about commercial posts is when someone tells  us they 
have items for sale, as if they're doing us a favor, but  they're being put on 
ebay.  If they were really considerate towards this  group, they would offer 
the items to Delorean owners on this list without  putting them on ebay.  Sure, 
everyone wants to get top dollar for whatever  they're selling, but most 
people here already keep track of items on ebay  without someone coming along and, 
in effect, saying, " Hello fellow Delorean  owners, I have some Delorean 
parts for sale, BUT, they're going on ebay, so  you have to go and compete with 
the rest of the world."
 
Dave Boboc


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 15
Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2004 18:13:19 -0000
From: "aaron_t_graham" <aaron_t_graham_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Greasy, cloudy windows

This happens to me, too.  I have a black interior, and if I leave the
car in the sun with the windows rolled up, it happens much quicker
than if it's a cloudy day or if I leave the windows rolled down.

So I've always assumed that the leather conditioner I use (Vinylex)
gets baked out of the leather and ends up on the inside of the
windows.  I can usually reduce the problem by using a sunshade.  But
most really hot days I just leave the DeLorean at home in the garage.
 Exotics just aren't as fun to drive with the A/C on, and the hot
glaring sun probably does more damage over time than anything else,
especially to a black leather interior.

Aaron
#1506


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_f...>
wrote:
> For some reason, I can not get my windows clean. 



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Message: 16
Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2004 18:13:26 -0000
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Interior LED lights

I use led also, the voltage is too low for the relay to turn it off 
& on. It appears off to the relay. You can just switch them so they 
don't work with the doors. I hardly ever use the dome lights, but 
like the led better, so I stick with them. Unless you want to custom 
wire the relay to see the lower voltage with a load resistor. 


Joe OBrien


2524 & 16634




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "ablemanse" <s.ableman_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> Dear List,
> 
>    I installed LEDs in the passenger compartment, they work fine 
when turned on and off manually, but will not shut off when in the
> activated via the doors.



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Message: 17
Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2004 18:23:54 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: flooding

Fred - We just recently had a severe flooding issue here locally, and 
it turned out to be the control plunger inside the fuel distributor 
that was stuck in the "up" position.  It was stuck due to some 
contamination inside the distributor.  The owner was able to take the 
fuel distributor apart, clean it up very nicely, and successfully put 
it back together.  His engine was flooding so badly that fuel was 
running out of the exhaust.  A quick check for this condition is to 
very gently push down on the flat circular plate in the mass air flow 
sensor.  The plate should go down smoothly and with consistent 
resistance.  The symptom of a stuck plunger was the plate would go 
down a bit, and then he could feel it contacting something, which 
turned out to be the end of the plunger.  This may not be your 
specific problem, but it's something to check.  Let the List know 
what you find.

PS - Renewing the distributor took some diligence and extreme care to 
get it right.  This may not be advisable for most people to attempt 
to do.  If this is your problem, replacing the distributor with a new 
or rebuilt one might be a better solution. 

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "ford565656565656" 
<ford565656565656_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> My '81 DeLorean floods so bad that I cannot start it using the 
> starter motor.  But if I tow it up to 10-15 MPH, it starts up and 
> runs great.  Had the starter rebuilt and it turns the engine well.  
> The car has 34000 miles on it. I can't find anyone who can figure 
> out the problem.





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Message: 18
Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2004 18:25:01 -0000
From: "usndmc" <usndmc_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Slave Cylinder-Argggh!

I just replaced the slave cylinder on my car and found it a lot 
easier than all the hype. I was able to get at it from underneath 
with a trusty 2 or 3 foot socket extenstion, even with the exhaust 
crossover pipe and all that nastiness there. Didn't have to remove 
the fuel/air metering unit or anything. You just have to be willing 
to lay there for a little while and work with a ratchet so long it 
feels like a remote control arm. Just becareful while you're taking 
the cylinder out and putting the new one in to not inadvertently 
knock the coil wire off the cap and cause yourself 5 minutes of 
intense aggravation after putting everything back together and 
bleeding it, only to find that your car won't start!

-Dave
#5968



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Message: 19
Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2004 18:35:23 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: Interior LED lights

Steve - This is just a guess (warning!, warning!) but I think that 
the timer relay may rely on current and resistance to turn the lights 
off after a certain time has elapsed.  Since you have a dramatic 
reduction in current flow and resistance with the LED's, you may not 
have enough draw for that timer relay to work with.  In fact, LED's 
look like an "open circuit" to the relay, asif there was no bulb at 
all.  The same problem occurs with the turn signals - the flasher 
relay acts upon current flow and resistance, and the LED's have very 
little flow, and no resistance to speak of.  For the turn signals to 
work, a resistor is required to mimick the normal light bulb 
resistance.  Most of the aftermarket LED light modules have a built-
in resistor for this purpose.  Something to look at.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "ablemanse" <s.ableman_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> Dear List,
> 
>    I installed LEDs in the passenger compartment, they work fine 
when
> turned on and off manually, but will not shut off when in the
> activated via the doors. The lights work correctly when the orignal
> bulbs are put back in. Suggestions!
> 
> Steve 1089




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Message: 20
Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2004 13:55:39 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Question about the ignition system

Jeremiah,
They rarely go out and if they do I can rebuild them. We have all the parts
to do it.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com


-----Original Message-----
From: Enid/Jeremiah [mailto:hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com]
Subject: [DML] Question about the ignition system

Quick question(s).  One of my most dreaded thoughts
has been if the ignition switch (#106679) ever goes
out.



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Message: 21
Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2004 15:02:34 -0500
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Complete LED kit for the car - ALL BULBS

LED's are an expensive alternative for some applications.
You could spend $250 replaceing all your bulbs with LEDs when in most cases 
it would not make a difference. If you want to spend the money, we can do 
anything.
For now, there are only a few places worth replacing the lights such as the 
doors.
- VB



>
>Hi Videobob,
>
>Just wondering why you're not planning to sell these kits.  I'm considering switching to all LEDs next year.
>
>Richard Rowe
>Vin 5853



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Message: 22
Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2004 15:14:46 -0500
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Interior LED lights

....a customer of mine asked me the question,
"Why should I buy my bulbs from you when I can find them and buy them 
myself?"
"well", I replied, "When you buy from a vendor you get installation 
instructions, research and phone support. The people who sell LED's don't 
know anything about a DeLorean!".

If you want to fix it contact me off list and I will help you.
- Videobob


>From: "ablemanse" <s.ableman_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
>Subject: [DML] Interior LED lights
>
>    I installed LEDs in the passenger compartment, they work fine when
>turned on and off manually, but will not shut off when in the
>activated via the doors. The lights work correctly when the orignal
>bulbs are put back in. Suggestions!
>
>Steve 1089



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Message: 23
Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2004 13:32:23 -0700 (PDT)
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Do fuel accumulators die overnight??... I'm stumped here.

To summarize everything you've said, I have the exact
same identical situation with the exception that my
timing isn't dead on.  All your "lukewarm" symptoms -
I experience all of them as well.  To coincide with
you, I as well have replaced every single fuel
component, except the accumulator and cold start
valve.  I have guesstimated/determined it's probably a
dead accumulator.  Hopefully at least =P.



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Message: 24
Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2004 20:48:16 -0000
From: "argent486" <mmetzinger_at_dml_deloreanalley.org>
Subject: Early '81 VIN 961 going up for sale

Fellow DMLers...

I am offering my early '81 VIN 961 up for sale. This is becoming more 
of a necessity for me as I have recently married and adopted a son. I 
no longer have the pleasure income and time to invest in my Delorean 
and would like to not see it deteriorate back to how I found it. 
Before I list the car on eBay as a must sell I wanted to offer it up 
on the DML.

Stats are as follows --

April 1981 VIN 961 - around 17,000-18,000 miles (was purchased in May 
2002 with 14,000 miles, I have kept this car low mileage but I have 
not looked at the odometer lately)
5-speed manual, stock engine, black leather interior
Body: Straight and in very good condition
Interior: No cracks in binnacle or dash
Leather seats are in very good condition
Has Black DMC floormats
Complete brake system overhaul by DMC Houston - May 2003
NEW Cooper Cobra GT Tires - Installed locally in 2002
NEW Clutch Master Cylinder and Stainless Steel Line
NEW Battery - 2004
NEW D150 Alternator, Ignition coil, plugs, relay kit
NEW Fuel pump, accumulator, filter installed 2003
New Passenger door heavy duty window motor assembly installed
Installed front end recall update
Installed new inertia switch

I have replaced and installed numerous other parts the past two years 
and will pass on the information and receipts to the new owner. I had 
it at the DMC Houston 2003 Open House Event and the racetrack drags 
for those that remember. I currently have it appraised for $25,150.

This car does need the following...

New headliners - current ones sag
New interior courtesy light 
New clutch slave cylinder - hard shifting unless clutch is bled 
frequently
Currently the fuel pump does not run. The pump is new, either I have 
lost juice to it or it is a defective pump.

I am currently working on the above problems to get the car back on 
the road as it should not take much. I am asking $15,000. I have the 
ability to trailer and deliver the car personally to the new owner 
should we come to an agreed delivery fee based on distance and time 
involved.

Please message to me privately by email 
at "mmetzinger_at_dml_deloreanalley.org" or my cell phone at 620-441-9788. I 
will happy to provide pictures and more information by email to 
interested buyers.

I pains me to sell but I would like someone to keep this VIN on the 
road and to continue its legacy. Thank you!

Matt Metzinger
Arkansas City, KS
VIN 961 - KS Tag: TIMELES 




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Message: 25
Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2004 22:12:45 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Still -more- ignition nonsense....

Lately I have been testing my timing advance as a theory regarding my 
power fall-off when you apply more than 1/2 throttle too quickly. I 
thought perhaps the centrifugal advance was sticking.

I have verified with a borrowed gauge that the vacuum advance is 
correct, and with an advancable timing light, that the centrifugal 
advance is correct. The advance apparatus doesn't stick or hang at 
all.

Here's something new that I've discovered that I'm at a total loss to 
explain:

When revving the engine (in the driveway) slowly to check all of the 
different advance points, everything is fine. If you "spike" the 
throttle (putting a load on the engine similar to the load from 
actually moving the car), the timing light goes out. This is a BRAND-
NEW, quality light. It does this on ALL spark plug wires. When the 
engine is under load, and the light goes out, the engine sputters. 
After struggling mightily, and the engine spins up a bit, the timing 
light comes back on, but it's dim and erratic if I keep the load on.

This is with an 18Kv Bosch coil from John Hervey, or a 25 Kv Accel 
coil. If I put my 23 year old blue coil in, or the new, cheapy 
generic 12kv coil that I happened to have laying around, the light 
gets dim, and erratic but it won't quit firing no matter how hard I 
spike the throttle, and as with the hotter coils, once engine speed 
spins up it becomes better, but better than the hotter coils.

So I put it to you:

Why do I experience a near-total loss of spark under load? Especially 
with a higher voltage coil? (I know some of you are running MSD's and 
Pertronix coils _at_dml_ 40Kv so I don't buy the "your coil's too high a 
voltage" theory. It sounds like something is breaking down under the 
higher voltage.

Remember: I've replaced ECU, wires, cap, rotor, coil, ballast 
resistor, checked advance, pulse coil resistance, coil input voltage, 
resistance of several coils, re-terminated wires, applied di-electric 
grease, -and- checked all of my fuel pressures with a Bosch K-jet 
test rig.

Thanks for all the help. Keep it coming.

Rich A.
#5335




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