From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2173
Date: Saturday, August 14, 2004 3:56 AM

There are 6 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Continued: Still -more- ignition nonsense....
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

2. Re: After MArket Cruise Control Removal...Help! :)
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>

3. Re: Orlando Owner Seeking Help... Ahh!
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

4. Re: Do fuel accumulators die overnight??... I'm stumped here.
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>

5. Re: Still -more- ignition nonsense....
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

6. Re: Orlando Owner Seeking Help... Ahh!
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>





Message: 1
Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2004 16:17:58 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Continued: Still -more- ignition nonsense....

If you've got constant 10v into the coil, problem is either on the
negative side or in the windings (or a problem grounding at the plug end).

BTW: you do have proper polarity on the coil, don't you? Positive side
is input from the resistor, negative side goes to the ECU.

How long has it been since you looked at the plugs themselves? You had
a vacuum leak at one time, which can shoot combustion chamber temps
through the roof. Will physically melt the electrodes off a plug.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Uh...I'm not sure you completely read the earlier posts. I have 
> indeed replaced the ignition ECU, I was loaned a functional spare for 
> testing. There was no improvement.



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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2004 12:28:07 -0400
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: Re: After MArket Cruise Control Removal...Help! :)

You are a smart man to remove the cruise control. Very dangerous in a
DeLorean. I'm sure others in the group can and will dispute that but to get
back to your problem.

You can start at the control on the indicator arm, Usually held on with a
set screw, you will need a hex key wrench to remove it. There will probably
be a electrical connector a short ways down the wire from the control, go
ahead and disconnect that and remove the control unit. There should be a
switch with a vacuum hose attached to the brake pedal (not to be confused
with the brake light switch), go ahead and disconnect the vacuum hose and
remove the switch from the pedal.You may have to remove the center console
now to pull out the control wire harness and the vacuum hose. Find the "Hot"
wire on the harness and disconnect it. You should now be able to pull the
wire harness back into the engine compartment to where the control module
is. Under the car attached to one of the drive axles is the Vehicle Speed
Sensor, remove it. The wire from the VSS goes back to the control module in
the engine bay. Remove the vacuum hoses from the control module and remove
the module. Check your vacuum hose routing diagram located on the bottom of
the engine cover for proper hose routing and connections.

WARNING: These instructions are generic and are no way inclusive to all
cruise controls on the market. So anything you screw up...........

Dave Sontos



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mike" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>
Subject: [DML] After MArket Cruise Control Removal...Help! :)
>
> I have fitted to the car an aftermarket cruise control. although this
> doesnt work and appears not to have any effect the car starting /
> running etc , i want to remove.



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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2004 16:47:11 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Orlando Owner Seeking Help... Ahh!

Since you say you just bought a new alternator from SpecialT you have
paid for the right to call him and pick his brains for a solution.
This doesn't mean his alternator is the cause of the problems (it is
very possibly the wiring in your car) but he will (should) help you
get the alternator to work. He knows best what it takes to make his
parts work right in your car so he is your "best" source for help. If
he can't help then try the list for suggestions. I figure it will turn
out to be bad/dirty connections between the battery, frame, starter,
and alternator. After all is said and done that will turn out to be
the root of your problems and maybe your old alternator was not bad.
BTW the gauge on the dash reads volts, not amps.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "motox45" <motox45_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Hey thanks to anyone who can help me :) Ok heres my problem i just 
> got a new alternator from specialTauto the 150 amp, put it in 
> correctly followed the instructions the whole 9 yards including 
> putting in the new bulb... OK so i charged my battery fully and 
> started the car my apmage thing was and went compltely down and when 
> i would give it some gas it would go up to about 10 amps then just 
> drop back down.



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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2004 17:44:41 -0000
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Do fuel accumulators die overnight??... I'm stumped here.

I've been reading sbout that little o-ring also. After all is said & 
done I'll pick up a n ew accumulator, and that pesky 0-ring as well. 
Least the 0-ring comes free with the purchase of a new accumulator.

I'll find out more after I chenge the thermotime switch this weekend.

Joe O'Brien

2524 & 16634






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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2004 18:50:51 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: Still -more- ignition nonsense....

Rich - I know that you've been bouncing this problem around for a 
while.  I wanted to relate something that happened to me on an SOB 
(some other brand) several years ago.  This was a Honda Accord.  I 
had done a complete tune up, with all new parts.  A week later, my 
wife was pulling out of a parking lot, and the car died.  It wouldn't 
even sputter when attempting to start it.  I pulled a spark plug, and 
it showed a fat blue spark when grounded to the engine while 
cranking.  The carb has a fuel level sight for the bowl, and was at 
the proper level.  The accelerator pump shot a good stream into the 
throat as it was supposed to do.  Cam belt, distributor rotation, all 
things checked out okay.  All the elements for "life", but it 
wouldn't run.  In the final analysis, the new distributor cap had a 
casting flaw in it that was not visible to the naked eye when clean 
and new.  After some period of time, traces of carbon collected in 
the flaw, and it eventually became an alternate electrical pathway 
for the HT spark.  It turns out that the electrical resistance for 
the spark plug in the cylinder during the compression stroke goes way 
up.  The spark looked for an easier path, and found the flaw to 
ground itself to.  The spark plug worked fine when removed, because 
of the lower pressure and the lower resistance.  All this to say ... 
could you have a flawed cap or rotor that is bleeding off spark when 
the pressures build in the cylinder suddenly during acceleration?  
It's a wild idea, but you've heard many so far in this little journey 
of yours.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1" - with MSD Blaster2 coil
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com     


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Uh...I'm not sure you completely read the earlier posts. I have 
> indeed replaced the ignition ECU, I was loaned a functional spare 
for testing. There was no improvement.
>> Some new theories are:





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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2004 22:29:41 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Orlando Owner Seeking Help... Ahh!

12.01 after a charge equals a dead battery. S/B 12.66. What is the 
reading under load? I guessing under 8 or less.

Harold McElraft - 3354


-- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "motox45" <motox45_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Hey thanks to anyone who can help me :) Ok heres my problem i just 
> got a new alternator from specialTauto the 150 amp, put it in 
> correctly followed the instructions the whole 9 yards including 
> putting in the new bulb... OK so i charged my battery fully and 
> started the car my apmage thing was and went compltely down and 
when 
> i would give it some gas it would go up to about 10 amps then just 
> drop back down. and then soon as i shut the car off it wouldnt 
start 
> back up it would give the ol click click click but i checked the 
> volts on it and it said 12.01 so granted that means i have a 
preety 
> full battery and the car should start but its acting like i have a 
> dead battery.. Iv cleaned all the contacts to the grounds and done 
> all that and still the same problem. GRanted my old alternator 
> before never made my ampage go past about 10 amps. So preety 
> frustrated and stumped so any help would extremely appreciated! 
> Thanks




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