From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2174
Date: Sunday, August 15, 2004 3:41 AM

There are 13 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: After MArket Cruise Control Removal...Help! :)
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

2. Only blows air on fan level 4?
From: "lakelanier20" <derek4567_at_dml_hotmail.com>

3. Led dome lights
From: S E Ableman <s.ableman_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>

4. Electrical
From: Chris Shepherd <chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com>

5. RE: How long is too long?
From: "Ralph Isenberg, III" <delorean1981dmc_at_dml_hotmail.com>

6. RE: Orlando Owner Seeking Help... Ahh!
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

7. Selling rheostat and clock
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

8. Re: Re: Turn signals/hazzard lights not working
From: Jan van de Wouw <delorean_at_dml_home.nl>

9. After Market Cruise Control Removal...Help! :)
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com

10. car cleaning
From: "andy" <andydandy777_at_dml_aol.com>

11. 5th Annual MN DeLorean Apple Run
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_bwig.net>

12. Re: Still -more- ignition nonsense....
From: "Jim Reeve" <jim.reeve_at_dml_wayzata.k12.mn.us>

13. Ohm's Law (Cigar lighter output)
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>





Message: 1
Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2004 18:41:36 -0500
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: After MArket Cruise Control Removal...Help! :)

Dave Sontos please tell me why a cruise control is very dangerous in a 
Delorean, i plan on installing one in my Delorean soon?

Mark V


On Friday, August 13, 2004, at 11:28  AM, Dave Sontos wrote:

You are a smart man to remove the cruise control. Very dangerous in a
DeLorean. I'm sure others in the group can and will dispute that but to 
get
back to your problem.




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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2004 23:59:07 -0000
From: "lakelanier20" <derek4567_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Only blows air on fan level 4?

Alright, this is a weird one.  When I got my car 3 weeks ago, the 
climate control fan switch (the one that has options of 0-4) worked 
at all stages.  For the first week it blew air at level 1, 2, 3, and 
4, blowing more air the higher the number, just the way it's supposed 
to.  Now, it only blows air when the switch is set to level 4.  
Anything below that, and absolutely nothing comes out of the vents.  
The A/C is still on, whether it's Bi-Level, Norm, or Max, it doesn't 
matter.  If 1, 2, or 3 is selected, the A/C still makes it's cycling 
and swooshing noises behind the dash, but no air comes out at all.  
Level 4 blows full blast cold as normal.  Anyone know what's going 
on? 

Thanks a lot,
-Derek L
VIN 5302




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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2004 21:31:03 -0400
From: S E Ableman <s.ableman_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Led dome lights

Dear List,

    Thank all of you that responded to my dome LED problem. You have 
confirmed my suspicions that the LED resistance is too high to make the 
solid state delay work. Putting a load resistor in the circuit would run 
the current up close to the lamp wattage.To those that suggested that I 
unplug the white delay module, I took your advise and did just that. 
There is no need to jumper around it, it is already hard wired that way.
    Now, the reason I went to the LED dome is, while taking the light 
assembly out to work on my headliner, I found the plastic wrap on the 
wiring harness  was so hard that it broke just by moving the wiring 
harness. A few inches away from the light it was okay. This tells me 
that at one time the dome must have been on for a long time. I saw this 
as a fire hazard. The heat of the OEM bulb at 7 watts is too much! The 
low current of the LED is much safer. I can live without a delay. If I 
ever change my mind,  I'll put a solid state delay with relay output in 
place of the white module. www.electronickits.com   has a kit for $20 
that will do the job, it takes some wiring changes and it won't plug in, 
but it can do the job. The delay time can be adjusted too.

Thanks again,      :-)
Steve Ableman  1089




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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2004 18:39:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: Chris Shepherd <chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Electrical

Any time I have an electrical problem that concerns the engine the first thing I do is start it in a very dark place. Get a mirror and look for any kind of electrical leak. Saved a lot of work many times. Never needed to do it with the DeLorean though. Knock on wood.

		
---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
New and Improved Yahoo! Mail - Send 10MB messages!

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2004 22:40:39 -0400
From: "Ralph Isenberg, III" <delorean1981dmc_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: How long is too long?

Just a followup to my original post of last September. Still nothing done to 
the car that we know of. It was shipped to PJ Grady in 2001, needing a new 
automatic transmission. We have the credit card reciept for the $5000 we 
paid up front, to cover the tranny and a few other odds and ends. The 
reciept is dated June 8, 2001. At the time Rob said there were about 40 cars 
ahead of mine, so we expectd maybe six months or a year to get the car back. 
Now it's been over three years, and still evidently no work has even 
commenced on the car. I've seen people post since who have taken their cars 
to Rob and already got them back, one gentleman after only a few weeks. We 
realize Grady's has a good reputation for maintaining these cars, but three 
years seems like a ridiculously long time to have not even started. Several 
times over the last couple years when I've spoken with Rob, he has said mine 
would be the next car in. Should we just get the $5000 back and have the car 
taken to another facility, or continue to wait? What do other owners who've 
used Grady think?

_________________________________________________________________
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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2004 23:19:32 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Orlando Owner Seeking Help... Ahh!

I just saw the post and Harold has the right answer on battery and David
with grounds and wiring. If there are any other problems you can call me
almost 24/7. I do sleep sometimes.
John Hervey


-----Original Message-----
From: motox45 [mailto:motox45_at_dml_yahoo.com]
Subject: [DML] Orlando Owner Seeking Help... Ahh!


Hey thanks to anyone who can help me :) Ok heres my problem i just
got a new alternator from specialTauto the 150 amp, put it in
correctly followed the instructions the whole 9 yards including
putting in the new bulb... OK so i charged my battery fully and
started the car my apmage thing was and went compltely down and when
i would give it some gas it would go up to about 10 amps then just
drop back down. and then soon as i shut the car off it wouldnt start
back up it would give the ol click click click



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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 14 Aug 2004 07:11:16 -0000
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Selling rheostat and clock

Just wanted to point out that I'm selling a rheostat and clock, both 
100% working on E-bay in a 3 day auction.  I *WILL* consider trades 
for a set of door locks.  :)

Matt
#1604






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Message: 8
Date: Sat, 14 Aug 2004 12:38:11 +0200
From: Jan van de Wouw <delorean_at_dml_home.nl>
Subject: Re: Re: Turn signals/hazzard lights not working

On Wed, 11 Aug 2004 09:03:54 -0000,
"Richard" <dmc_driver_at_dml_yahoo.ca> wrote:

> I meant that the actual bulbs light up (but only if
> the headlights are on).  They just don't flash.
[snip]
> The indicators on the dash are completely dead.

If that's the case you're probably mistaking the running
lights on the front for indicators... The lights in the
front bumper are dual filament, when you push on the
lights to the first position they light up a 5 Watt filament
along with the taillights, side markers and dash lighting...

> Moving the lever either way doesn't do anything.

Do the Hazzard flashers work? I'm WAY behind on reading posts
on the DML, so I can't remember if you checked your fuses.
The indicators are fused on Fuse #4, while the Hazzards
are on Fuse #6 (as are the horns and the headlight flashing).

Also, maybe a bit dumb, but you DO have the ignition on to
the secodn position when testing? The indicators are only
active with the ignition on, the Hazzard can work any time,
that's why they're fused separately...

Hope this helps,

JAN van de Wouw

Thinking Different...   Using a Mac...
Living the Dream...   Driving a DeLorean...

#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
--------------------------------




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Message: 9
Date: Sat, 14 Aug 2004 09:07:05 EDT
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: After Market Cruise Control Removal...Help! :)

 
 
Dave S.
 
Why is cruise control in a D any different than any other  car?


 

Dave  D






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 10
Date: Sat, 14 Aug 2004 18:13:10 -0000
From: "andy" <andydandy777_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: car cleaning

Last week I posted a notice about Cameo,a stainless cleaner I found 
that does a great job of cleaning the Delorean, the car will shine. 
The one draw back is that you can't touch the car without leaving 
fingerprints, or if a flying insect gets within 50 feet it leaves a 
mark, so I went looking for the answer and here it is. Clean with 
Cameo cleaner, dry the car to get rid of water spots than apply a 
coat of Weiman stainless steel cleaner and polish. This stops the 
finger prints, as with all polish it dulls the shine somewhat but 
you really have to look to tell it. The two products combined has 
made my car look great. If Weiman polish isnt in your area their web 
site is www.weiman.com




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Message: 11
Date: Sat, 14 Aug 2004 15:08:31 -0500
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_bwig.net>
Subject: 5th Annual MN DeLorean Apple Run

Sunday, Sept 12th is Minnesota's 5th annual DeLorean run to Deer Lake
Orchard.  It's a chance for local and not so local DeLorean owners and
enthusiasts to get together and discuss all things DeLorean.

Mark your calendars for:
Sep 12th, Sunday
1:00 - ?
Deer Lake Orchard www.deerlakeorchard.com for directions.
Located outside Buffalo MN

Just for the fun of it, Lotus Esprits of similar vintage are invited.

Any questions, feel free to contact me.

See you there,

Nick Kemp

The long range forecast calls for sunny, highs in the upper 70's and dry ...
perfect weather (Subject to change without notice)




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Message: 12
Date: Sat, 14 Aug 2004 22:18:16 -0000
From: "Jim Reeve" <jim.reeve_at_dml_wayzata.k12.mn.us>
Subject: Re: Still -more- ignition nonsense....

Rich, please do keep us informed of everything you do/try/find out.  
I also experience the exact same problem with the 18kv coil, but not 
with the original, and have seen it on yet another car too.  I would 
find it unlikely that it could be a single defective rotor since my 
car and the other one I saw were just replaced.  Perhaps an enherent 
flaw with the design, I dont know.  Just do let us know what you 
find.

Jim Reeve  aka-"TIMMAY!"
MNDMC - Minneosta DeLorean Club
DMC6960

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Precisely, even the A/C effect matches what's happening to me. 
> 
> For everyone who's replied, you've given me some great ideas and 
it 
> sounds like we're thinking in relatively the same direction.
> 
> At this moment, I'm back to running a 12kv coil and it's only a 
> little better.
> 
> That little condensor hanging from the coil is a ballast or 
> electrical "shock absorber" so to speak, it seems silly but it may 
> have an effect. I'll pull it and see what happens.
> 
> I'll also put the timing light on the main coil wire. That was my 
> next idea. If the light always fires under load there, I'll 
suspect 
> my rotor.
> 
> Thanks,
> Rich A.




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Message: 13
Date: Sat, 14 Aug 2004 22:49:46 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Ohm's Law (Cigar lighter output)

I am so embarrased to even be asking this question as a guy who is 
deeply into telecom and EE but:

How many amps is the cigar lighter -supposed- to put out?? Mine puts 
out around 4 amps. It runs my little air-pump just fine, but of 
course it blows the fuses in my cigar-lighter adapter devices such as 
cell-phone chargers, and mini-disc player power supply. They are only 
rated for 1000 mA.

Do I have a short somewhere, or does it just need attenuated?
If I do need to attenuate the circuit, how many ohm resistor should I 
install? Based on 13.5 volts and 4.5 amps DC measured at the outlet, 
I figured I should put in a 50 ohm resistor.

Now that I've publicly admitted I'm dumb feel free to advise me.

Rich A.
#5335




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