From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2183
Date: Thursday, August 19, 2004 3:37 AM

There are 2 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Orlando Owner Seeking Help... Ahh!
From: "motox45" <motox45_at_dml_yahoo.com>

2. Re: Door Dings Due To Upgraded Window Motors
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>





Message: 1
Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2004 22:52:39 -0000
From: "motox45" <motox45_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Orlando Owner Seeking Help... Ahh!

hi again,
Iv cleaned the connections to the battery, alternator, and the 
ground wires and still the same problem, start it, runs fine just 
really low amp readings then when i turn the car off wont start 
again even tho started with a full battery 12.66, i dont know if 
everyone has this in their car or not but when i turn the key the 
lights for the brake etc are alot brighter than the battery light, 
my battery light is quite dimmer than the others even tho i just 
replaced it with a brand new one... Do u guys think i might need a 
new started selenoid? thanks again

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "motox45" <motox45_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Hey thanks to anyone who can help me :) Ok heres my problem i just 
> got a new alternator from specialTauto the 150 amp, put it in 
> correctly followed the instructions the whole 9 yards including 
> putting in the new bulb... OK so i charged my battery fully and 
> started the car my apmage thing was and went compltely down and 
when 
> i would give it some gas it would go up to about 10 amps then just 
> drop back down. and then soon as i shut the car off it wouldnt 
start 
> back up it would give the ol click click click but i checked the 
> volts on it and it said 12.01 so granted that means i have a 
preety 
> full battery and the car should start but its acting like i have a 
> dead battery.. Iv cleaned all the contacts to the grounds and done 
> all that and still the same problem. GRanted my old alternator 
> before never made my ampage go past about 10 amps. So preety 
> frustrated and stumped so any help would extremely appreciated! 
> Thanks




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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2004 23:45:28 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Door Dings Due To Upgraded Window Motors

I can't resist adding another 2 cents here.  First, I think Ken is 
right on about the torque. The way I relieved the push was to add 
some height to the window stop with a steel hose clamp tightened 
just enough to stay in place above (on top of) the built-in stop. 
This too relieved a lot of the torque and allowed me to just see the 
top of the window when it is all the way down. Otherwise I couldn't 
see it at all. The main alignment issue that I saw was the plane of 
the window travel is not in alignment with the shaft tube both 
horizontally and vertically (this is where the flex of the OEM stuff 
works well). So, in order to get it to move as freely as possible 
some very careful bending is required - also some repositioning of 
the tube mount may help. I had a lot more trouble with the driver's 
door than I did with the passenger door too. By the time I got to 
the passenger door I guess I had the technique figured out and I got 
it adjusted with only a couple of ins and outs - still put a scratch 
in the tint though.

I would suspect that if a window is not in correct alignment to 
start - i.e. it moves up and down in the frame and on the rails 
freely, the new motors will add enough stress that the windows will 
definitely come off the rails and possibly damage the plastic 
brackets on the window. I guess my point here is - this whole window 
thing is not simple so be careful.

Harold McElraft - 3354

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, kKoncelik_at_dml_a... wrote:
> The upgrade window motors have a stop so that the window does not 
go down all 
> the way
> the way the bracket on the bottom is arranged it holds it a bit 
high in the 
> door and when the window comes down it hits the stop and puts a 
torque on the 
> shaft and it twists out into the door panel
> 
> By making a very minor bend in the shaft just before the elbow 
relieves it a 
> lot and if  you remount the motor a little it shifts the shaft 
down a hair and 
> that also puts the elbo a bit lower and away from the door.
> 
> You can also put a washer under the bracket where it attaches to 
the window 
> thus also forcing the bar in and away from the skin.  This is just 
a tweek and 
> is not going to make a big move like the other adjustment.  
> 
> There are a few other things to do but we did about half of what I 
said above 
> to Patricks car tonight and it barely touches now on the side that 
was about 
> 1/4 inch interference.
> 
> We will get it the rest when there is light 
> kinda got dark
> 
> Ken
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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