From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2188
Date: Sunday, August 22, 2004 3:33 PM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: 3 Row radiator
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

2. Re: 3 Row radiator
From: John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. Re: DeLorean Documentary problems?
From: "Jake Kamphoefner" <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

4. RE: Side Stripe
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

5. Re: Re: >snip< LED FESTOON BULBS!(A/C)
From: John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_yahoo.com>

6. Re: DeLorean Documentary problems?
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

7. RE: 3 Row radiator
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

8. Re: Dash cover
From: Chris Shepherd <chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com>

9. Re: Dash cover
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>

10. Re: DeLorean Documentary problems?
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>

11. Re: DeLorean Documentary problems?
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

12. Re: Speaking of DMC Joe, Chris Bowman have you had any luck getting your car back?
From: Daniel Plakosh <dplakosh2_at_dml_yahoo.com>

13. Broken Bolt Extracted!
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

14. Re: Charging Problem.......Help :)
From: "bbbigray" <bbbigray_at_dml_insightbb.com>

15. Re: Re: more lights to LED >snip< LED FESTOON BULBS!(A/C)
From: kevin creason <kcreason77_at_dml_yahoo.com>

16. Re: Re: Chrome like stainless
From: "Jason" <rowejj_at_dml_tds.net>

17. Re: Re: Charging Problem.......Help :)
From: Chris Shepherd <chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com>

18. Re: Charging Problem.......Help :)
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

19. Re: Still a starting problem
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

20. Re: 3 Row radiator
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

21. Re: Chrome like stainless
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

22. Re: Re: Chrome like stainless
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_fuse.net>

23. window off tracks
From: "Vanilla Thunder" <vanilla_thunder2000_at_dml_yahoo.com>

24. Re: Charging Problem.......Help :)
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

25. Re: Dash cover
From: "D F" <funkstuf_at_dml_hotmail.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2004 04:55:39 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: 3 Row radiator

Austin - I don't have any experience with John's radiators, but I do 
have one of the ones that we (DPNW) carry in Winged1.  The 
temperature seems to stay very stable, with no real "peaks and 
valleys" depending on driving conditions.  It has to do with the 
extra capacity (three rows versus two) and the density of "cooling 
fins".  The additon of a proper drain petcock is also a definite 
plus.  Winged1 runs about one needle width below the first mark on 
the gauge in nearly every condition.  No matter which "brand" of 
brass radiator you get, it is a very definite positive upgrade for 
the car, assuming that the fit and installation are good.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "austinbrumley" <austinbrumley_at_dml_d...> 
wrote:
> Has anyone installed John Hervey's 3 row radiator w/ copper fins. 
How much cooler did your car run? Thanks.





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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2004 22:05:51 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: 3 Row radiator

 
Just put one in this week and the Delorean runs terrific about 130.F _at_dml_ idle in the 90 degree plus Florida heat and it does get much more than that if at all while driving!
Can't complain, another top notch product!

austinbrumley <austinbrumley_at_dml_delorean.com> wrote:

Has anyone installed John Hervey's 3 row radiator w/ copper fins. How 
much cooler did your car run? Thanks.



Austin




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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2004 02:03:30 -0500
From: "Jake Kamphoefner" <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: DeLorean Documentary problems?

Sounds like a strange fluke.  I bought the movie several years ago from Dan,
and I highly recommend it.  It's the only documentary definitely worth
buying.


Jake


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dan" <copper_trace_at_dml_yahoo.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, August 21, 2004 9:07 PM
Subject: [DML] DeLorean Documentary problems?


> Has anyone purchased the DeLorean documentary from:
>
> http://www.deloreanmovie.com/index.html
>
> and received a VHS tape that had something other then the documentary
> on it?



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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2004 05:59:29 -0500
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Side Stripe

Just to clear things up here....
You can NOT just go to any sign shop and have these made for $70.
If that was the case then someone else would have done it.
If it were that easy then why wouldn't the other vendors do this?
First you have to start with a real, unused set of stripes (like I did)
and have them scanned to an exact measurement, then they must be vectorized
to an EPS by hand, once that is done they must be plotted.
You are not going to get this done that cheap unless the guy who owns the 
shop
is family and is willing to do all the labor for free.

Now, someone out there might make a simple rendition of what you are looking 
for
out of thin, cheap vinyl.....maybe.

The stripes I am selling are REPRODUCTIONS - not renditions.
They are as close as you are going to get with the materials available.

Anyone who knows me should know by now that I will NOT sell anything that
does not meet my absolute approval, and I have tossed a lot of projects into 
the trash because
of it. These stripes are wicked, and in my opinion BETTER than the originals 
because of the
newer compounds they are using now.

Prototype shmototype.
I got them now and they RAWK.
If you want sum : http://www.dfwdmc.com

- VB





>From: "geek123y" <service_at_dml_techno-concepts.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Side Stripe
>Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2004 18:37:45 -0000
>
>For people who want to have a stripe installed for them
>Just finished the first set of prototype stripes at the local vinyl
>shop
>Any good sign or car vinyl shop can reproduce these for about $70.00
>Another $25.00-$30.00 more for textured vinyl
>And they will install it
>
>I will have the digitization for anyone who wants it soon
>
>Picture of the non-textured version is on the DML PHOTOS under
>"side stripe"
>
>



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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2004 22:20:48 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: >snip< LED FESTOON BULBS!(A/C)

Anybody know what LED to use for the glove box light, might as well do the whole 9 yards!  From superbrightleds or elsewhere?

John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:Anybody know what bulbs or model # to use in the A/C console 3 bulbs, from these guys? 




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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2004 08:07:19 -0500
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: DeLorean Documentary problems?

I have a copy of this movie and it is everything the website said it 
would be, yours must have been a mistake.

Mark V



On Saturday, August 21, 2004, at 09:07  PM, Dan wrote:

> Has anyone purchased the DeLorean documentary from:
>
> http://www.deloreanmovie.com/index.html
>



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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2004 05:49:10 -0500
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: 3 Row radiator

I have, and I did his new updated fans at the same time.
It is hard for me to judge because this is my first summer with the car, but 
so far it has been fine.
I mean, if you are going to be forced to replace your radiator, fans or both 
you might as well
use his stuff and at least it is bigger and will last longer.
And believe it or not, it is not that hard of a job.
Just loosen up the AC condenser in front and let it dangle, and pull the 
radiator out from
behind it.
I did this on some drive up car ramps and it worked great.
Car was running pretty cool tonight.
- VB


>From: "austinbrumley" <austinbrumley_at_dml_delorean.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] 3 Row radiator
>Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2004 15:26:45 -0000
>
>
>Has anyone installed John Hervey's 3 row radiator w/ copper fins. How
>much cooler did your car run? Thanks.
>
>



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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2004 06:12:38 -0700 (PDT)
From: Chris Shepherd <chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Dash cover

I have one of the calcar that I bought ten years ago. My dash was/is fine and I wanted to protect it. The light grey one matches pretty well and is still in very good shape. That's my recommendation and 2 cents.

ttanaka504_at_dml_aol.com wrote:Hello List

My D's dash cracked and be burned to change a messy brown color....
My neighborhood kids make fun of my car. So I make a fresh resolve
to buy a Dash cover. I know that two place sale a Delorean dash cover

http://www.calcarcover.com/interior_dash.aspx 

http://dashmat.com/dashmat/index.html

Then I have some problem. I dont know which one should I choose for 
my gray color dash. Delorean dash color is almost blue gray. and dashmat
seem to not have right. other has light gray and Dark gray. I think light one
is close to my D dash color, but not sure...
by the way, what is Velour?

Can you please help me to find the right color for my gray dash?
or can you please give me any suggestion?

Thanks

Blacknight 




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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2004 13:17:00 -0000
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Dash cover

http://www.dashdesigns.com/


Makes the hands down best dash cover for the Delorean. I have 2 and 
use them when I take the car to a sow or anything that has the car 
outside for more than an hour.

Much better design than the cheapo style sold elsewhere.

You can also spray the dash with a vinyl paint to recolor it at 
least, even though it is cracked.


Joe OBrien 

2524 & 16634






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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2004 13:21:16 -0000
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: DeLorean Documentary problems?

Sounds like a fluke. I purchased one of these tapes about a year and 
a half ago, and it was fine. Maybe you got someone elses order??

Joe OBrien

2524 & 16634




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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2004 13:23:02 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: DeLorean Documentary problems?

Nope. I purchased a tape from him too, via one of his eBay auctions, 
and everything was fine. Much better video quality than I expected 
too. A little grainy here and there, but no tracking problems.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dan" <copper_trace_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Has anyone purchased the DeLorean documentary from:
> 
> http://www.deloreanmovie.com/index.html
> 
> and received a VHS tape that had something other then the 
documentary 
> on it?
> 
> I recently purchased it and received it and after going nearly 8 
> minutes into the tape, all I have is some program about analyzing 
> headaches with a bunch of puffy doctors and intellectuals on some 
> talk show.
> 
> I've already left a message on Mr. McGauley's answering machine.
> 
> I was just curious if I just found out the hard way that this is a 
> scam or if my tape happens to be some sort of stupid fluke.




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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2004 06:56:31 -0700 (PDT)
From: Daniel Plakosh <dplakosh2_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Speaking of DMC Joe, Chris Bowman have you had any luck getting your car back?

I talked to Chris last week and he said that he was going to pickup up his D this weekend and tow it back to PA. Hopefully we will hear some good news shortly.
 
 
Best regards,
 
Dan
 
3872

Joe OBrien <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
After hearing your horror story about DMCJoe holding your car for 
over 3 years and not wanting to return it to you I was just 
wondering if you had made any progress of getting DMCJoe to return 
your car. Has anything been completed on it yet, and if you still 
don't have it, do you have an eta at least now? These DMCJoe threads 
reminded me of you. Contact me off list if you get this message.

Joe OBrien

2524 & 16634




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Message: 13
Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2004 14:14:13 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Broken Bolt Extracted!

Many thanks to every one both on, and off list that replied to my 
post! The most unanimous solution that everyone agreed upon was the 
Dremel method, and it was quite a success!

Basicly, I took the Dremel, and the flex attachment, and used a 
tungsten-carbide engraving bit. It has a series of fine teeth, and 
had a round point, where everything swirls together, rather than the 
traditional 2-blade drill bit.

I used on of the 35,000 RPM Dremels, with the flexable attachment (a 
glorified speedometer cable), and hung it from the engine cover. I 
generally keept the speed at level 7 on the drill, and consistantly 
dipped it into some waste coolant I had left over, to cool, and 
lubricate the bit. What's nice about using an engraving bit, rather 
than a drill bit, is that you can move around, and cut away what ever 
portions you see fit. Being able to cut/grind with the side of the 
bit makes things go allot faster. So, you can either grind the 
extrator out. Or, you can dig it out, by cutting the bolt that holds 
it in place. This is even faster, because you can cut away most of 
the bolt, and can then knock the broken bit out with an awl, and a 
mallet.

Now, while removal of the extrator bit was a success, the removal of 
the bolt wasn't, per se. I tried a larger extrator bit, and it broke 
off in the bolt too. I tried using a less agressive extrator, and it 
wouldn't even grip. So to get the bolt out, I had to drill it out, 
and retap the threads. Note: If you go this route, make certain that 
you use a set of Metric Taps.

When I next get the chance to work on my car again, I'm going to 
pressure test the system, and will take everything from there.

Thanks again, everyone!

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"




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Message: 14
Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2004 14:25:12 -0000
From: "bbbigray" <bbbigray_at_dml_insightbb.com>
Subject: Re: Charging Problem.......Help :)

Hi list.

Interesting issue, as our cars tend to eat batteries when parked for 
a while.  Does it cause problems if you trickle charge the battery 
while it's still installed in the car?  Same question, quick charge?

On that note, seems to me those solar chargers you plug in to the 
lighter made this list some time ago.  Personally, they give me the 
creeps damage-wise, but I have no hard science to support my 
misgivings.

In the twenty-one years I've owned the car I've driven it very 
regularly, but as I do a lot of business travel by air, long sits are 
a constant problem even for the daily driver.  I've always wanted to 
make a pigtail for the car to plug in a 110v-to-12v DC power supply 
to operate all the hot-wired power drains like the clock and other 
volatile-memory devices, not to mention for powering systems like the 
stereo (200W Alpine) at car shows.  Anybody got any ideas on that?

(BTW, stereo at car shows:  Went to one where the local radio station 
broadcast a live rock and roll band from the show.  At the end of the 
show, just before the Rolling Thunder thing, everybody fired up their 
custom stereos and tuned 'em to the station to augment the band.  The 
band in turn cranked up and the sound was astonishing.  Beaucoup 
loud.  Crowd ate it up.)  

My current (no pun intended) fix for battery charging is a battery 
cutout switch.  Just disconnect at the switch, ventilate, and 
(trickle) charge away.  Downside of that seemingly simple method is 
that it deprograms the clock/calendar and all the presets on the 
stereo. (There's a ton.  Cool toys come at a price.)  Besides, it's a 
pain constantly opening the battery hatch and crunching my knuckles 
snaking the cables in there, so I'm looking for a better way.

Laziness is the mother of invention.

--Ray
10693 and Counting.

   

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> 
wrote:
> Current expert advice now discourages jumping one car with another.
> The risk to the computer systems in BOTH cars is too great. You also
> risk doing it wrong...

<snip>

...but the codes are still trying to catch up to
> the new technologies.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757  
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Lauren" <LPLand_at_dml_e...> wrote:
> > 
> > Dave T wrote:
> > 
> > > If you ever jumped the battery to start the car you may have
> > > blown the alternator. Even if you connect the jumper cables 
correctly,
> > > the surge can take out the voltage regulater.
> > 
> > Dave -- is this unique to Delorean?  Are you saying that no car 
> > should ever be jump started?  In my many years and many cars and 
> > many jumps, I've never heard this before.  I always appreciate 
your 
> > technical advice.
> > 
> > ...........................LP
> > 10440




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Message: 15
Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2004 07:59:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: kevin creason <kcreason77_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: more lights to LED >snip< LED FESTOON BULBS!(A/C)

I forgot to do the bulbs in the headlight and hazard
switch, as well as the cig lighter bulb. Doh!
Anyone have those part numbers?

Something interesting: wheb I removed my console I
found an unused festoon bulb under there, like new.
The ones in my courtesy lights said "Made in France"
and "Mazda" strangely enough. This one was just "Made
in France"; I think it must have been dropped while in
the factory.


	
		
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
New and Improved Yahoo! Mail - 100MB free storage!
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail 



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Message: 16
Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2004 10:13:16 -0500
From: "Jason" <rowejj_at_dml_tds.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Chrome like stainless

              I've saw a car like that at the Auburn-Kruse auction  in
Indiana a couple years ago. It would blind
you if you tried to look at it in the sunlight. I always wondered if there
were some liability issues driving it
like that. By the way for those interested, The Kruse auction in Auburn
Indiana (north of Fort Wayne) is coming
up over labor day weekend. They usually have about 5,000 cars, seem to
always have a few Deloreans and this
year a '68 camaro that is expected to bring about 1.5 million. See their
website at www.kruse.com .

                                    Jason #5903

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, August 21, 2004 10:24 AM
Subject: [DML] Re: Chrome like stainless


> Amazing car wasn't it? I spokw with the owner several times because
> I was amazed by it. He told me that using 400 grit sandpaper it only
> takes 6-7 HOURS per square inch. WoW.
>



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Message: 17
Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2004 08:25:16 -0700 (PDT)
From: Chris Shepherd <chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Charging Problem.......Help :)

A few years back I mounted a NAPA 85-300A trickle charger on mine for all of your reasons. It cost $35.99 and has performed flawlessly. I mounted it in place of the completely useless (my opinion) engine compartment light. Looked like the perfect place for it since it is about the same size. Very nice to go out after the car has been sitting for a few months, unplug it, and have it start right up. When I know it's going to be parked for an extended period I always treat the gas with StaBil or another product that prevents gas from breaking down.
 
Chris

bbbigray <bbbigray_at_dml_insightbb.com> wrote:

Hi list.

Interesting issue, as our cars tend to eat batteries when parked for 
a while. Does it cause problems if you trickle charge the battery 
while it's still installed in the car? Same question, quick charge?



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Message: 18
Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2004 15:30:30 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Charging Problem.......Help :)

I have done about the same # of shift computers as you and I also have
found that "usually" it is the caps and Yes, the caps won't fail from
jumping the car. The transistors "could". I have seen 2 units with bad
transistors. There is no way to say how they failed. All I can say is
that it is possible, especailly if the cables were hooked up in
reverse and the ignition key was left in the "on" position. This can
also be deadly to the voltage regualter in the alternator and I
suspect it to be the cause of most of the failures there. Since most
Deloreans are not used regularly the batteries in them are probably
chronically undercharged. This causes all kinds of extra stresses on
the electrical systems and components. Higher amperage draws because
of the lower voltages. It also causes the need for the car to be
jump-started more often than a regularly used car. This increases the
chance it might be done incorrectly. It also causes spikes and surges
to go through the system because of the near-dead battery and the
different voltages of the dead car and the charging car. I don't know
how the tale of jumping the Delorean and killing the shift computer
got started but in general jumping a car is a risky procedure for the
dead car and the jumper car, especailly with all the electronics in
the newer cars. I still say it is better not to jump the car but to
recharge or replace the battery. At least use a battery pack so the
voltages are at least close to 12 volts and there is no risk to the
jumper car.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> 
> I'm sorry, I fixed about 10 automatic governors so far,
> and non of them was destroyed because the car was jump started.
> (The capacitors simply dry out. I am pretty sure that heat and
> aging is the problem here. There is no way that the caps see any
> spikes or surges or whatever. At another car a transistor was
> shot - while driving the car in the mountains. Nobody ever said
> something about jump starting and it failed immediately afterwards.)
> 
> I have no idea who came up with this fairy tale, but it is wrong !
> 
> 




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Message: 19
Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2004 15:32:07 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Still a starting problem

Try jumping the thermo-time switch and making sure the cold start
valve is working. That is what starts the car when it is cold.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> Okay guys, I am once again stuck on a problem that I cannot seem to
> fix. Here's the details: New fuel pump and chk valve, accumulator is
> tested OK, injectors cleaned in April or around there, no fuel leaks,
> s/s braided lines from distributor to injectors and etc. When I go to
> start my car- right after I turn it off (within 10 mins)- it will
> crank and, shortly after, will start up and idle. When I drive my car
> and go try to start it around 30mins-5 hours or overnight, it will
> crank for a very long time and fail to start or even turn over.
> Sometimes after overnight trying to start it, it will eventually turn
> over and misfire for a few moments and then begin to clear up and run
> fine. Anytime after I crank it and finally get it to start, I get a





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Message: 20
Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2004 15:35:10 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: 3 Row radiator

The thermostat on the motor and the otterstadt switch determine the
temp of the motor under most conditions. The radiator is supposed to
have excess capacity so it can cool the coolant under the most severe
conditions like idling on a hot (100 degree day) in the sun with the
A/C running. That is when you will know if the radiator is better or
worse, not ordinary driving on a cool day.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "austinbrumley" <austinbrumley_at_dml_d...>
wrote:
> Has anyone installed John Hervey's 3 row radiator w/ copper fins. How 
> much cooler did your car run? Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> Austin




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Message: 21
Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2004 15:39:40 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Chrome like stainless

What I cound not figure out is why it had to be done that way. You 
see high-polish stainless tanker trucks all the time, and no way is 
some guy doing those by hand with #400 paper. Why not use a buffer/ 
grinder, at least to knock all of the grain out of it and get close 
enough to then use buffing compound? 

Dave S

> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_y...>
> To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Saturday, August 21, 2004 10:24 AM
> Subject: [DML] Re: Chrome like stainless
> 
> 
> > Amazing car wasn't it? I spokw with the owner several times 
because
> > I was amazed by it. He told me that using 400 grit sandpaper it 
only
> > takes 6-7 HOURS per square inch. WoW.
> >




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Message: 22
Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2004 11:45:53 -0400
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_fuse.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Chrome like stainless

Wonder no more...How many times have you seen a polished tanker truck 
going down the highway?

Cheers,
Josh
5102
15964
10236 (parts)
11289 (parts)
3951 (parts)


Jason wrote:

>It would blind
>you if you tried to look at it in the sunlight. I always wondered if there
>were some liability issues driving it
>like that. 
>                                    Jason #5903
>
>  
>





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Message: 23
Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2004 17:33:00 -0000
From: "Vanilla Thunder" <vanilla_thunder2000_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: window off tracks

My window motor broke and pulled the window off the 2 internal 
tracks.  Now I'm having hell trying to push the window back on the 2 
tracks just right.  Is there an easy way of doing this?  Should I 
pull the window out go from the top down?  I have had hours of 
frustration and a sore neck, if anybody could help me I would 
appreciate it.

#5705




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Message: 24
Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2004 15:46:15 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Charging Problem.......Help :)

Here is how I installed a master switch AND don't lose my presets. Run
a wire from the + terminal of the battery to an inline fuse. Now run a
wire from the inline fuse to the fuse for the radio. Take the fuse out
of # 11 and connect to the LOAD side. Use the same size, 30 A, and a
heavy wire. Just be aware that even with the master switch off you are
still drawing a small amount out of the battery. Not much but still a
draw. If the car is not used much you should trickle charge the
battery once a month for a day. If you are really lazy (I'am kidding)
you can drill a hole in the battery cover and extend the master switch
handle through so you can just reach behind the passenger seat to get
the switch without removing the cover. There are master switches with
a removeable key so it can be inserted through the hole and removed
when you leave the car. The reason our cars seem to "eat batteries" is
because it hurts the life of a battery not to always be fully charged.
If a car is used infrequently the battery lives in a chronic state of
undercharge. A discharged battery can also freeze which is DEATH to a
battery.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "bbbigray" <bbbigray_at_dml_i...> wrote:
> Hi list.
> 
> Interesting issue, as our cars tend to eat batteries when parked for 
> a while.  Does it cause problems if you trickle charge the battery 
> while it's still installed in the car?  Same question, quick charge?
> 
> On that note, seems to me those solar chargers you plug in to the 
> lighter made this list some time ago.  Personally, they give me the 
> creeps damage-wise, but I have no hard science to support my 
> misgivings.
> 
> In the twenty-one years I've owned the car I've driven it very 
> regularly, but as I do a lot of business travel by air, long sits are 
> a constant problem even for the daily driver.  I've always wanted to 
> make a pigtail for the car to plug in a 110v-to-12v DC power supply 
> to operate all the hot-wired power drains like the clock and other 
> volatile-memory devices, not to mention for powering systems like the 
> stereo (200W Alpine) at car shows.  Anybody got any ideas on that?
> 





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Message: 25
Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2004 19:08:10 +0000
From: "D F" <funkstuf_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Dash cover

I don't know if you have Schuck's car centers where you are, but, I went in 
there and they actually have Delorean down right in the book.  I ordered 
mine there.  You can choose between a couple of types of materials.
Dale Funk
4984

>From: Chris Shepherd <chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [DML]Dash cover
>Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2004 06:12:38 -0700 (PDT)
>
>I have one of the calcar that I bought ten years ago. My dash was/is fine 
>and I wanted to protect it. The light grey one matches pretty well and is 
>still in very good shape. That's my recommendation and 2 cents.
>
>ttanaka504_at_dml_aol.com wrote:Hello List
>



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