From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2190
Date: Monday, August 23, 2004 3:38 PM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: BLINKERS BLINKERS(driver side)
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

2. RE: Re: Charging Problem.......Help :)
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

3. Re: BLINKERS BLINKERS(driver side)
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

4. Re: Charging Problem.......Help :)
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

5. Re: Charging Problem.......Help :)
From: "bbbigray" <bbbigray_at_dml_insightbb.com>

6. Re: Big Thanks To Dave Sontos!
From: "bbbigray" <bbbigray_at_dml_insightbb.com>

7. RE: Re: Charging Problem.......Help :)
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayfw_at_dml_charter.net>

8. Re: Dash cover
From: ttanaka504_at_dml_aol.com

9. Woodward Dream Cruise
From: "Marvin" <marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com>

10. Re: Re: Charging Problem.......Help :)
From: "Lauren" <LPLand_at_dml_earthlink.net>

11. Saving radio presets (was: Charging Problem.......help!)
From: "Hank" <henry_at_dml_ix.netcom.com>

12. Delorean for sale
From: "delor_01" <JOHN.JORDAN_at_dml_ED.GOV>

13. SPARK PLUG WIRES
From: "delor_01" <JOHN.JORDAN_at_dml_ED.GOV>

14. Re: Re: Charging Problem.......Help :)
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel_at_dml_lorainccc.edu>

15. Re: Still a starting problem
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

16. Low fuel warning indicator
From: "bkp944" <bk_pollard_at_dml_hotmail.com>

17. Re: SPARK PLUG WIRES
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

18. Re: Carpeting
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>

19. Re: Re: Charging Problem.......Help :)
From: Chris Shepherd <chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com>

20. Re: What ever happened to the ZILLAS?
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>

21. Re: Re: Charging Problem.......Help :)
From: Chris Shepherd <chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com>

22. Re: Still a starting problem
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

23. MTV Commercial
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>

24. New sputtering problem
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com>

25. RE: Re: Charging Problem.......Help :)
From: Cirillo Ronald A NPRI <cirillora_at_dml_npt.nuwc.navy.mil>





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2004 20:16:32 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: BLINKERS BLINKERS(driver side)

In a message dated 8/22/04 4:49:37 PM Central Daylight Time, 
john_podlewski_at_dml_yahoo.com writes:


> Two Blinker Issues: 
>                                #1 My rear driver side blinker does not work 
> at all BULBS AND FUSES GOOD, the passenger rear and front side is fine?
> 

John,
try removing the tail light lens and remove the wiring harness from the 
circuit board.  get some electrical cleaner and douse the circuit board where the 
clip goes on.  rub it in with a towel to get any dirt off the contacts.  on the 
plug, try getting a little wire brush in there so you can soak it in cleaner 
and scrub the contact pins.  once they are clean, use a little allen wrench 
and bend the pins toward the middle of the connector so they will be as tight as 
possible on the board when you reinstall.  i bet the one that goes to the 
blinker is either bent outwards or dirty.  lots of dust can get back there so i 
wouldn't be surprised.  if that still doesn't work, get a multimeter or test 
light and check for +12V off/on/off/on on that pin for the blinker (either 
follow the solder trail from the bulb or check the wire color with your shop 
manual).  what do you find? also check the solder trail on the board for cracks or 
damage.  

if you still have no power back there, contract me off-list and i will assist 
in helping you with a continuity check along the rest of the electrical 
system for the light bulb.


>                                #2 Also the driver front blinker works fine 
> but only WITHOUT the headlights.  When the headlights are on it does not 
> light up at all?  VERY ODD and   the dash gauge for the left blinker is steady, 
> i.e does not blink but is lit.

this one is odd.  I would begin by removing the lens for the blinker and 
checking for damaged wiring or insulation.  you have checked all of your frame 
grounding points and they are all clean and tight, right?  I think the light 
ground is connected to the front subframe/frame extension.  you can view it thru 
the brake master cycliner access cover.  the screw is 10mm and there are maybe 
three other wires at the location.

Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2004 22:30:17 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Charging Problem.......Help :)

Ray, It won't hurt to trickle charge while it's sitting, but you may want to
keep it under .5 amps or lower. As far as the solar panel. I have use one on
and off for years on different cars and especially in the winter when a
battery will go dead faster. They put out such a small amount of current
depending on the light they won't hurt anything.
Keep in mind that if you hook up a small wire to operate the equipment off
the battery you may still have the current drain. If it plugs into the
cigarette lighter and then turn off the battery it should work fine.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com


-----Original Message-----
From: bbbigray [mailto:bbbigray_at_dml_insightbb.com]
Sent: Sunday, August 22, 2004 8:25 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Charging Problem.......Help :)



Hi list.

Interesting issue, as our cars tend to eat batteries when parked for
a while.  Does it cause problems if you trickle charge the battery
while it's still installed in the car?  Same question, quick charge?

On that note, seems to me those solar chargers you plug in to the
lighter made this list some time ago.  Personally, they give me the
creeps damage-wise, but I have no hard science to support my
misgivings.

In the twenty-one years I've owned the car I've driven it very
regularly, but as I do a lot of business travel by air, long sits are
a constant problem even for the daily driver.  I've always wanted to
make a pigtail for the car to plug in a 110v-to-12v DC power supply
to operate all the hot-wired power drains like the clock and other
volatile-memory devices, not to mention for powering systems like the
stereo (200W Alpine) at car shows.  Anybody got any ideas on that?

(BTW, stereo at car shows:  Went to one where the local radio station
broadcast a live rock and roll band from the show.  At the end of the
show, just before the Rolling Thunder thing, everybody fired up their
custom stereos and tuned 'em to the station to augment the band.  The
band in turn cranked up and the sound was astonishing.  Beaucoup
loud.  Crowd ate it up.)

My current (no pun intended) fix for battery charging is a battery
cutout switch.  Just disconnect at the switch, ventilate, and
(trickle) charge away.  Downside of that seemingly simple method is
that it deprograms the clock/calendar and all the presets on the
stereo. (There's a ton.  Cool toys come at a price.)  Besides, it's a
pain constantly opening the battery hatch and crunching my knuckles
snaking the cables in there, so I'm looking for a better way.

Laziness is the mother of invention.

--Ray
10693 and Counting.



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...>
wrote:
> Current expert advice now discourages jumping one car with another.
> The risk to the computer systems in BOTH cars is too great. You also
> risk doing it wrong...

<snip>

...but the codes are still trying to catch up to
> the new technologies.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
>
>
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Lauren" <LPLand_at_dml_e...> wrote:
> >
> > Dave T wrote:
> >
> > > If you ever jumped the battery to start the car you may have
> > > blown the alternator. Even if you connect the jumper cables
correctly,
> > > the surge can take out the voltage regulater.
> >
> > Dave -- is this unique to Delorean?  Are you saying that no car
> > should ever be jump started?  In my many years and many cars and
> > many jumps, I've never heard this before.  I always appreciate
your
> > technical advice.
> >
> > ...........................LP
> > 10440




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Yahoo! Groups Links











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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2004 03:55:01 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: BLINKERS BLINKERS(driver side)

 I am guessing that they are 2 separate problems. For the rear light
you have a bad connection. Probably at the plug going to the taillight
board or a bad connection on the board itself. Did you put the bolts
in the rivets? For the front light check the ground connections. I
think the spot you need to clean is the one on the front left radiator
support (the bolt with all the wires going to it on the frame). It is
easy if you pull the front left wheel.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_y...>
wrote:
> Two Blinker Issues: 
>                                #1 My rear driver side blinker does
not work at all BULBS AND FUSES GOOD, the passenger rear and front
side is fine?
>  
>                                #2 Also the driver front blinker
works fine but only WITHOUT the headlights.  When the headlights are
on it does not light up at all?  VERY ODD and   the dash gauge for the
left blinker is steady, i.e does not blink but is lit.
>  
> I can't help think the two are related?  If my front driver side did
not work at all either this problem would be pretty easy to diagnosis,
but that is not the case.      
>               
> Any suggestions or anyone ever had this problem before, Thanks?    
                                
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2004 03:48:20 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Charging Problem.......Help :)

I do not recomend a permanently installed trickle charger. It will
impress a very low A/C voltage on the car's electrical system. This
will cause electrolytic corrosion in the cooling system, the coolant
will act as an electrolyte between the dissimilar metals, aluminum,
steel, and brass. If you want to use a trickle charger my advice is to
use it for 1 day, once a month. I have seen trickle chargers dry out
the batteries in some cars. There is no way to replenish the
electrolye on the new  batteries. On the older type where you can add
water I have seen the need to add water when a trickle charger was
used. They do not appear to be as automatic as they would have you
believe. When you say trickle charger I assume you really mean the
newer computerized "float" chargers like the Battery Tender. Even with
a battery switch a battery will lose it's charge slowly over time.
That is why it really is better for a battery to be in a car that is
used regularly. The battery is always kept charged up fully. For a car
that is being stored the "best" thing to do is to remove the battery
anyway.
 On the subject of fuel stabilizers, I don't like them either. The
volitiles still come off eventually. The fuel becomes "dead" even
though it doesn't become sludge. It can become impossible to start the
car on the old, "stabilized" gas. If the car is to be stored for any
length of time the "best" advice is to drain the fuel. I have seen too
many cars that were put away for a couple of months (like over a
winter) only to be "rediscovered" 20 years later with a rotten fuel
system. The old advice of having the fuel tank left full to reduce
condensation only means there will be that much more sludge in the
tank when all the volitiles have evaporated off. It is also that much
more of a fire hazard. Modern gasoline does not store well for long
periods. The additives that make it work break down or evaporate
quickly leaving the gas smelling "dead". 
 Remember too that if you ARE storing the car for a long time the
anti-freeze will be come acidic eventually and the brake fluid will
absorb moisture which will corrode the insides of the brake system and
the clutch system. The bottom line is that cars do not store well for
extended periods of time unless the proper preparations are done.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Chris Shepherd <chrisau79_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> A permanently installed trickle charger is a whole lot simpler and
will keep the battery fully charged at all times.
>  
> Chris
> 
> David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> 
> Here is how I installed a master switch AND don't lose my presets.




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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2004 05:09:13 -0000
From: "bbbigray" <bbbigray_at_dml_insightbb.com>
Subject: Re: Charging Problem.......Help :)

Thanks Dave.

Liked the idea about the hot tap with the inline fuse--it'll save me 
when I've got to leave the car at the airport for a week or more and 
I can't plug in.  (Gated/patrolled parking off-premises with a 
section where all the motorheads park.  Definitely not your average 
Pay 'N' Park.)

However, I've been looking into an on-board charger setup similar to 
the one Chris Shepherd described, for times when 110v AC is 
available.  In the event charging is necessary, is trickle-charging 
safe with the battery fully connected? (--the cutout switch "ON?")  
Conversely, must I disconnect the hot tap to the stereo when using a 
charger?

Secondly, can I safely operate systems like the stereo, engine off, 
using a charger (of sufficient output) as a power source, or must I 
use a dedicated source routed directly to the systems involved?

Please forgive me if these sound like the same questions twice, but 
for my own edification and the benefit of the community, I want to be 
sure I understand what you're suggesting.  I'd rather not drive a 
stainless steel toaster.

--Ray
10693 and Counting.


     --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" 
<jtrealty_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> Here is how I installed a master switch AND don't lose my presets. 
Run a wire from the + terminal of the battery to an inline fuse...

<snip>

... A discharged battery can also freeze which is DEATH to a
> battery.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757

> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "bbbigray" <bbbigray_at_dml_i...> wrote:
> > Hi list. Interesting issue, as our cars tend to eat batteries 
when parked for a while...

<snip>






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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2004 05:31:49 -0000
From: "bbbigray" <bbbigray_at_dml_insightbb.com>
Subject: Re: Big Thanks To Dave Sontos!

Just a thought on your quest for a solid frame:

Should you decide to take the plunge and replace the frame, and you 
don't want to go the deluxe route with Reg and Bryan's stainless 
wonder, ("PermaFrame."  I love mine.) give Don Steger or Danny Botkin 
a call at DeLorean Motor Center--they have a very spiffy galvanized 
one hanging from the rafters, and their work is terrific.  (I know 
because I'm the reason they put it there, but that's a long and 
frightening story.)

Anyway, if anybody else on this list is in the market, now you know.

--Ray
10693 and Counting.



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "lluucckkmmaann" <luckeys71_at_dml_c...> 
wrote:
> Hi gang,
> You guys are absolutely amaz...

<snip>

...and I would appreciate any of the members taking the time to view 
them and 
> giving me your thoughts on whether or not repair would be possible.
> Thanks again for everyone's help!
> Mike
> #3760



> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Ratfink65" <dennis.p.lowery_at_dml_l...> 
> wrote:
> > I was thinking the same thing.  Maybe we could get a project 
> leader...

<snip>

...Just my thoughts,
> > 
> > Dennis Lowery
> > vin 4797




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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2004 05:17:47 -0700
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayfw_at_dml_charter.net>
Subject: RE: Re: Charging Problem.......Help :)

I have debated whether to mount a battery on/off switch that would operate
easily with an extension thru the panel behind the passengers seat, or to
use one of the trickle chargers.    I put in a new Interstate battery this
year (second one since new) and it has started the car flawlessly and
quickly since then........we just returned from a six week vacation trip in
our motorhome and when we got home I hit the Remote button on my keychain.
The D started the second try quickly, which is normal if it has been sitting
for a long time.  The Remote is programmed to "try" for two seconds and if
it does not start, waits for 30 seconds and trys again and it has ALWAYS
started the second try, instantly.   IF it has been "sitting" for a week or
less, it always starts the first try.  Incidentally, I have had the REMOTE
start for about 8 years and just NEVER start it any other way!!  Knock on
wood, but it has been very dependable.

Murray
VIN: 05962
LIC:  DMC-XII





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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2004 09:57:06 EDT
From: ttanaka504_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Dash cover

Hello list

           Thank you very much for anyone answering my question.
I go with calcarcover because they have a light glay dash cover I want...
I checked other one but it seems that they dont carry glay color I want.

           Then kids around my house wont make fun of my dash. Great.

Blacknight


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2004 10:00:33 -0400
From: "Marvin" <marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com>
Subject: Woodward Dream Cruise

For those members who could not attend the "cruise of the year" held in Detroit this past Saturday, let me give you a hint of what you missed - more perfect weather could not have been scripted - no clouds, high 70's. This was the 10th year with what started as a small community cruise on a Saturday in August. Now, the cruise goes about 5 miles on Woodward Avenue which is a main drag in Detroit. Most of the street is 3 - 4 lanes wide in each direction with a huge grassed boulevard in the middle.

Picture 1.5 million people in that 5 mile strip. Picture 30,000 custom cars, antiques, concour cars, junkers, and moving mechanized things from as far as California. There were static car displays along the parking spaces and side streets. The big manufacturers had displays on the side streets. Bbq's were in front of, or beside most businesses for staff and friends. Lots of souvenir stands. ( I got a great black t-shirt) The bars and retaurants were jammed, the people on chairs and standing were 3 deep in places ........... and there were 5 DeLoreans plus one original owner (8,000 miles) who has never heard of this list. (car in the garage and needs to be fixed). 

As well, some other DeLorean owners were not aware of this list either, and had no idea where to get even door struts. He sent his to Europe for a refill. One DeLorean had a nitrous kit in it ---- which I'm going to add to mine. He claims 100 hp boost for 2 - 3 seconds with no motor modifications (Stage 1). He has run the system for 2 years.

 I met nice people, (some really dumb),  walked about 7 miles, and had a great time. 

Be there for 2005 Detroit Woodward Dream Cruise.

Marv.
# 17077
marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2004 19:25:28 -0700
From: "Lauren" <LPLand_at_dml_earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Charging Problem.......Help :)

Dave wrote:
> Current expert advice now discourages jumping one car with >another.  The risk to the computer systems in BOTH cars is too great.

Thanks, Dave for bringing me into the present.  I once swore I'd 
never own a car new enough to be computerized and now I have one 
more reason why.  Except for my daily driver, the D is the newest 
car I've ever owned.

Tom wrote:
> This applies to DeLoreans and all modern cars with computers.  I >dont  think it would hurt say a 66' Mustang 

that confirms what I just said.  

Actually I drive a 96 Hummer (OK - I broke down and bought a 
computerized vehicle and I hate the fact that I can't just push start 
it myself)  with dual Optima yellow tops and am always willing to 
come to everyone's rescue.   I'll rethink that!  Although I have to say  
confirming "red to positive" is my standard for jumping cars, much 
like one would  say "clear" for a  defribulator or "four" for golfers. 

I had to smile at the idea of a frozen battery here in the desert -- 
that will be a sure sign of Armageddon.

Thanks again for the advice.

...........................LP
10440




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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2004 10:58:17 -0400
From: "Hank" <henry_at_dml_ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Saving radio presets (was: Charging Problem.......help!)


Just a quick note on battery cut-off and losing radio presets.

Two years ago, along with the help of Rick G (creator if the twin engine DMC), I put together a couple of diodes and a small sealed 12v battery to power my radio presets when I shut off the main power with a battery cut-off switch from John Hervey.  

The entire thing (accessory battery, rectifier, housing, cables) fits snugly next to the battery in the battery compartment, and I have the cut-off switch mounted in the battery cover with a removable key, so I whenever I park the car for long periods of time, I just reach behind the passenger seat and flip the switch.  And when I return, all my radio presets are still there.  As an added bonus, when the car is running, the main battery will recharge the accessory battery, and the diodes keep the main battery from discharging the accessory battery when the car is off, but the cut-off switch is not engaged.  It's worked like a dream for two years now.

Note: The 12v accessory battery does NOT power the radio itself, only the "memory" line to hold the presets.

Note2:  The only downside is that my LockZilla remote no longer works with the battery cut-off engaged.  It's been my experience that the lockzilla unit slowly drained my battery, so I'm not going to hook it up "before the switch".

-Hank #1619



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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2004 15:08:26 -0000
From: "delor_01" <JOHN.JORDAN_at_dml_ED.GOV>
Subject: Delorean for sale


One of our members is selling his car

here is information on the VEHICLE


DUE TO MY SECOND CHILD ENTERING COLLEGE, I AM FORCED INTO SELLING MY 
D.  PRIOR TO LISTING OF EBAY, I AM LISTING WITH DML. INTERESTED 
PARTIES CAN CONTACT JOHN FOR INFORMATION.

1981 AUTO IN SERIOUSLY  UPGRADED CONDITION: 38000 MILES

UPGRADES:

NEW CUSTOM SEATS-NEW GOODYEAR TIRES-REFINISHED ALL WHEELS
REPLACED ALL CIRCUIT BREAKERS AND FUSES
COMPLETE TUNE UP/WIRES/DISTRIBUTOR/ROTOR ECT
INSTALLED NEW T ROOF AND DOOR HEAD LINERS-STEEL DOOR HANDLES 
NEW INNER DOOR SEALS-PAINTED WINDSHIELD TOP TRIM PANEL
NEW REMOTE MIRROR SWITCH-NEW R/H EXTERIOR MIRROR
NEW COLD START VALVE-NEW IDLE SPEED CONTROL SWITCH
NEW ACCELERATOR CABLE AND STOP-NEW CONSOLE WINDOW SWITCH
REPLACED LEAKING MANIFOLD GASKET-PAINTED FRONT FACIA
CLEANED AND INSTALLED 3 NEW FUEL INJECTORS-NEW FUEL PUMP
NEW REAR L/H =R/H SHOCK ABSORBER KIT-NEW 94amp ALTERNATOR
NEW GABRIEL REAR SHOCKS-REHUILT L/R HAND REAR CALIPERS
REBUILT FRONT BRAKE CALIPERS-REBUILT LOWER ARM SPRING HOLDER
REPLACED FRON WHEEL BEARING-REPLACED THERMAL VACUME VALVE
STEERING RACK AND ARMS REPLACED-NEW BRASS RADIATOR-STABILIZER BAR-
LAMBDA RELAY-R/H WINDOW REGULATOR-OIL SENDER-HORNS-NEW HOSES-OXYGEN 
SENSOR-NEW CAT / MUFFLER / STARTER HEAT SHIELDS-NEW LOW BEAM LIGHTS-
NEW HOOD SEAL-TRUNK SAFTY RELEASE-A/C BELT-DISTRIBUTOR FUEL LINE-AIR 
BLEED HOSE-NEW SUNSCREEN / HOOD STRUTS-UPPER BALL JOINTS-ENGINE VENT 
COVER-TRUNK CARPET BOARD-VALVE COVER GASKETS-TIMING COVER GASKET / 
LIP SEAL-TEMP GAGE SENDER-WATER PUMP W/PULLET-FUEL ACCUMULATOR-NEW 
FUEL CELL-

AS YOU CAN SEE THERE HAS BEEN EXTENSIVE REHAB TO THE CAR. I HAVE 
REMOVED THE RADIO IN PREP TO REPLACE IT  BUT HAVE NOT DONE SO YET. I 
HAVE THE OLD RADIO. IF YOU HAVE QUESTIONS CONTACT ME OFFLINE.







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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2004 15:04:49 -0000
From: "delor_01" <JOHN.JORDAN_at_dml_ED.GOV>
Subject: SPARK PLUG WIRES



I am looking for new wires--preferabley 8mm  Stainless wrapped or 
similar in appearance--

Does anyone have any information

thanks




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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2004 11:13:32 -0400
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel_at_dml_lorainccc.edu>
Subject: Re: Re: Charging Problem.......Help :)

I believe the risk of jump starting a DeLorean, or any other car with a 
computer, is that the battery may be completely non-functional.  A good 
battery cushions spikes and smooths waves in the electrical system to 
protect the circuitry.  If there is no battery in the receiving car but 
a functioning battery in the sending car then you should be able to 
start the engine successfully, but the moment you disconnect the jumper 
cables all Hell will break loose.  The alternator doesn't put out the 
nice, smooth DC flow that your computer wants.  It puts out a wave.

If you have a good battery that is connected properly and can take a 
charge then I do not see any reason why you could not jump your 
DeLorean.  If there is any doubt whatsoever, then I do not recommend 
jump starting.  Remove the battery, charge it completely, then replace 
it carefully.

>I once swore I'd never own a car new enough
> to be computerized and now I have one more
> reason why.  Except for my daily driver,
> the D is the newest car I've ever owned.

And I know a guy who won't own any car new enough to have an alternator.  He
only drives old cars with generators because he claims that alternators are
more vulnerable to the Electro-Magnetic Pulse from a thermonuclear 
attack.  When the bombs start falling, he wants to keep driving.

- Mike Substelny




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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2004 15:16:27 -0000
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Still a starting problem

I will check out the cold start valve and jump the switch today. But I
also wanted to mention that I discovered the vehicle WILL NOT start
when the front end is inclined up more the the rear like parking on a
hill or any slight incline for that matter. Doesn't matter when I come
back to start it, it will not start without spray or until it is level
again. Must be a malfunction in the tank still??? Thanks, Dani B. 5003

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...>
wrote:
> Try jumping the thermo-time switch and making sure the cold start
> valve is working. That is what starts the car when it is cold.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> > Okay guys, I am once again stuck on a problem that I cannot seem
to
> > fix. Here's the details: New fuel pump and chk valve, accumulator
is
> > tested OK, injectors cleaned in April or around there, no fuel
leaks,
> > s/s braided lines from distributor to injectors and etc. When I
go to
> > start my car- right after I turn it off (within 10 mins)- it will
> > crank and, shortly after, will start up and idle. When I drive my
car
> > and go try to start it around 30mins-5 hours or overnight, it will
> > crank for a very long time and fail to start or even turn over.
> > Sometimes after overnight trying to start it, it will eventually
turn
> > over and misfire for a few moments and then begin to clear up and
run
> > fine. Anytime after I crank it and finally get it to start, I get
a




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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2004 15:38:12 -0000
From: "bkp944" <bk_pollard_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Low fuel warning indicator

Hello group,

Approximately how much fuel is left in your tank when your low fuel 
warning indicator comes on?


I have only been a DeLorean owner for about 6 months and am on my 
5th or 6th tank of fuel. I have never seen the low fuel warning lamp 
come on, although I know the bulb is good.

When I turn the ignition to the run position without starting the 
car, my low fuel lamp does not illuminate. I know modern cars will 
illuminate the low-fuel warning lamp as a circuit check under such 
conditions, but it is my guess the DeLorean's sender does not have 
this much "intelligence" built in (unless, of course, the fuel tank 
is nearly empty).

I have not replaced my fuel sender, but it says delorean.com on it, 
so it much be DMCH's. I do not know how old it is. It appears to 
work just fine, with the possible exception of the low fuel warning.

I have been running the fuel down low trying to get the low fuel 
warning indicator to illuminate, but it hasn't so far. Last fillup 
was a little over 11 gallons. I thought that would be sufficient to 
illuminate the indicator, certainly as fuel was sloshing about and 
the fuel gauge would go down to "0".

What is everyone else's experience? I imagine this will depend what 
fuel sender you have installed, so I am primarily interested in DMCH 
sender users.

Thanks,
Brian
VIN# 4494





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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2004 15:57:15 -0000
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: SPARK PLUG WIRES

I've upgraded to specialtauto's 8mm wires, but I haven't seen any
wrapped, only rubber. As long as you have the right components in your
ignition system these wires will work wonders. If you want to know
what components I've used check out
http://damngoodsite.net/deloreanignition.html towards the bottom-Dani
B. 5003.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "delor_01" <JOHN.JORDAN_at_dml_E...> wrote:
> 
> 
> I am looking for new wires--preferabley 8mm  Stainless wrapped or 
> similar in appearance--
> 
> Does anyone have any information
> 
> thanks




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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2004 11:18:18 -0500
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>
Subject: Re: Carpeting

We are adding an upgraded stereo to the stock D.  Since Ryan now drives 
the stock D, this stereo upgrade is consistent with younger DeLorean 
owners.

We are looking for help in two areas.  

Does someone have the dark carpeting that goes with the black interior?

Is someone making the kick panels with speaker opening?


BOB and Ryan




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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2004 08:42:44 -0700 (PDT)
From: Chris Shepherd <chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Charging Problem.......Help :)

Hi Ray........The trickle charger I use has an automatic shut-down when the battery is fully charged. It then pulses on/off as current is used. It's a 1.5 amp unit.
If I understand the rest of your question my car doesn't have a cut off so, yes it is safe (IMO). The battery is still the source for power.
 
Chris

bbbigray <bbbigray_at_dml_insightbb.com> wrote:

> Thanks Dave.
> 
> Liked the idea about the hot tap with the inline fuse--it'll save me 
> when I've got to leave the car at the airport for a week or more and 
> I can't plug in. (Gated/patrolled parking off-premises with a 
> section where all the motorheads park. Definitely not your average 
> Pay 'N' Park.)
> 
> However, I've been looking into an on-board charger setup similar to 
> the one Chris Shepherd described, for times when 110v AC is 
> available. In the event charging is necessary, is trickle-charging 
> safe with the battery fully connected? (--the cutout switch "ON?") 
> Conversely, must I disconnect the hot tap to the stereo when using a 
> charger?
> 
> Secondly, can I safely operate systems like the stereo, engine off, 
> using a charger (of sufficient output) as a power source, or must I 
> use a dedicated source routed directly to the systems involved?
> 
> Please forgive me if these sound like the same questions twice, but 
> for my own edification and the benefit of the community, I want to be 
> sure I understand what you're suggesting. I'd rather not drive a 
> stainless steel toaster.
> 
> --Ray
> 10693 and Counting.





[long quote trimmed by moderator]



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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2004 15:54:22 -0000
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>
Subject: Re: What ever happened to the ZILLAS?

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_c...> wrote:

> Some people say that they would prefer the solenoids, because they
work faster than the 
> actuators. If you think that an additional second or so is too long
to wait, all I can say is 
> this: Take a stopwatch to a Bricklin with hydraulic door rams, and
see how long those 
> things take to open!
> 
> -Robert
> vin 6585 "X"
> 

Robert,

Toby's actuators don't even take a second to open. Maybe half a
second. Once the actuator receives power the door releases in about
the same amount of time it takes you to pull on the handle. 

-Ryan




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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2004 08:56:48 -0700 (PDT)
From: Chris Shepherd <chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Charging Problem.......Help :)

We are not talking about a car that is to be stored for years. We are talking about a car that will be stored in a garage for 1-6 months. I think most of us change the coolant every two years. As to the gas stabilizers I follow the same procedures with my boat and it always starts at the beginning of the next season. It's use is also strongly recommended for any two cycle mix that you may store over the winter.
 
Chris
 

David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net> wrote:
I do not recomend a permanently installed trickle charger. It will
impress a very low A/C voltage on the car's electrical system. This
will cause electrolytic corrosion in the cooling system, the coolant
will act as an electrolyte between the dissimilar metals, aluminum,
steel, and brass. If you want to use a trickle charger my advice is to
use it for 1 day, once a month. I have seen trickle chargers dry out
the batteries in some cars. There is no way to replenish the
electrolye on the new batteries. On the older type where you can add
water I have seen the need to add water when a trickle charger was
used. They do not appear to be as automatic as they would have you
believe. When you say trickle charger I assume you really mean the
newer computerized "float" chargers like the Battery Tender. Even with
a battery switch a battery will lose it's charge slowly over time.
That is why it really is better for a battery to be in a car that is
used regularly. The battery is always kept charged up fully. For a car
that is being stored the "best" thing to do is to remove the battery
anyway.
On the subject of fuel stabilizers, I don't like them either. The
volitiles still come off eventually. The fuel becomes "dead" even
though it doesn't become sludge. It can become impossible to start the
car on the old, "stabilized" gas. If the car is to be stored for any
length of time the "best" advice is to drain the fuel. I have seen too
many cars that were put away for a couple of months (like over a
winter) only to be "rediscovered" 20 years later with a rotten fuel
system. The old advice of having the fuel tank left full to reduce
condensation only means there will be that much more sludge in the
tank when all the volitiles have evaporated off. It is also that much
more of a fire hazard. Modern gasoline does not store well for long
periods. The additives that make it work break down or evaporate
quickly leaving the gas smelling "dead". 
Remember too that if you ARE storing the car for a long time the
anti-freeze will be come acidic eventually and the brake fluid will
absorb moisture which will corrode the insides of the brake system and
the clutch system. The bottom line is that cars do not store well for
extended periods of time unless the proper preparations are done.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Chris Shepherd wrote:
> A permanently installed trickle charger is a whole lot simpler and
will keep the battery fully charged at all times.
> 
> Chris
> 
> David Teitelbaum wrote:
> 
> Here is how I installed a master switch AND don't lose my presets.




To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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Yahoo! Groups Links






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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 22
Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2004 16:58:15 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Still a starting problem

Gee! you have a lot of problems with your car! And you don't mention
them all at 1 time. For your incline problem pull the fuel pump, drain
and wipe out the fuel tank, and inspect all the parts in there. Make
sure they are all there, and they are properly positioned. I suspect
you will need to replace your suction hose. You may also need new
boots for the fuel pump, especailly if they do not fit good but in any
case if they are deteriorated. This may also help with your cold start
problem. The fuel pump is geting air into the fuel system and not
getting the pressure up like it should. Like I said before, MANY of
the fuel system problems begin in the fuel tank! I think if you ever
have any fuel system problems the FIRST thing that should be done is
an inspection in the tank. You will be amazed at the conditions that I
have seen even on good running cars have in the tank. From completely
deteriorated boots to rust to water sloshing around, dirt, and parts
put of position. And I don't see all that many cars so most of the
Deloreans out there probably should have the fuel tanks cleaned out
and inspected! It isn't all that hard to do. The biggest thing is to
safely get the fuel out and that can be made easy if you run the tank
down by driving. I recomend that when you store the car for the winter
you drain ALL the fuel out and wipe out the tank. That way when you
start the car up in the Spring you can do it on FRESH gas. BTW the gas
companies blend fuel for each season so if you parked the car on Fall
gas it will not be the right blend for the Spring besides being months
old. One bad tank of gas can really ruin your day. If the station has
a leaky tank and you get a big slug of water your fuel injection
system will not like it one bit! It will stay in your tank because it
goes right to the bottom.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> I will check out the cold start valve and jump the switch today. But I
> also wanted to mention that I discovered the vehicle WILL NOT start
> when the front end is inclined up more the the rear like parking on a
> hill or any slight incline for that matter. Doesn't matter when I come
> back to start it, it will not start without spray or until it is level
> again. Must be a malfunction in the tank still??? Thanks, Dani B. 5003
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...>
> wrote:





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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 23
Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2004 13:47:37 -0400
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: MTV Commercial

The funniest commercial with a Delorean in it to date!

The D showed for quite a while in a commercial for the MTV music video
awards.  The D had a wide side stripe..  Whose is it?

You might have to watch MTV for the next 24/7 to see it, the awards are
on the 29th.  I'll make a video if it plays again.

Jim  



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Message: 24
Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2004 11:10:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: New sputtering problem

Ok everyone, here is a new scenario.  Give me whatever
you can think of.

Engine cold.  Car runs fine.

Engine warm - the rpms bounce around.  The bouncing is
minimal - less than 100 rpm fluctuation, but it's
definitely noticeable when idling.  It does this in
all gears (automatic transmission).  Next if you give
the car gas, the engine "sputters"; you can actually
feel the engine sputter from 0-1000 rpms.  As you gain
acceleration (and this is after...2 seconds tops), the
sputtering goes away, and the engine is normal.  If
you only go 0-25 mph and come to a complete stop, the
engine will continue to sputter when idling/rolling
slowly, the rpms jump around, and this problem
continues.  
If you go above 35 mph at a fast pace (basically, you
give it hard gas..NOT flooring it), then come to a
complete stop - the problem goes away completely.  The
car runs normally and everything described is gone.  

Turn car off, wait a couple minutes, turn car on, and
the problem begins all over again.

It does not do this at a cold startup.

For a thorough but not complete list of what I've done
in repairs and restoration to the car, look here:
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/534926/3

I did check the auto tranny fluid just to be safe;
it's cherry red.  All plug wires are on solidly. 
Except for the fuel accumulator, the entire fuel
system has been replaced and cleaned.  Could it have
anything to do with the electric distributor or one of
the ecus?  Just throwing thoughts out here; I'm at
school so I can't completely diagnose the problem
until I get home.  Throw me whatever you've got
everyone.

Jeremiah
Winner of the Greasiest Hands Award, and ready to get
dirty and greasy again.

** - On a very interesting note, this problem used to
happen once every 2 months or so.  This would happen
if the car was hot, cold, warm - it was completely
sporadic.  Now it does it everytime the car is hot
started. - **



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Message: 25
Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2004 13:52:15 -0400
From: Cirillo Ronald A NPRI <cirillora_at_dml_npt.nuwc.navy.mil>
Subject: RE: Re: Charging Problem.......Help :)

Dave,

I saw this post and I had to add my 2 cents worth.  I agree that a trickle charger left on all the time is not a good idea because of the possibility of overcharging.  A float charger may work depending if it is indeed a float charger.  A battery will lose a charge very slowly because of its internal resistance that constantly causes current to be drained.  I respectfully disagree with the antifreeze electrolyte hypothesis.  First of all, electrolytic corrosion is basically a DC issue not an AC issue.  It is action/reaction of anode to cathode in a conductive medium.  There is no significant difference between a battery charger and an alternator when it comes to charging a battery.  The battery charger uses a rectifier circuit to convert AC to DC while the alternator (a 3 phase AC device) uses a rectifier bridge to convert AC to DC.  Neither produces a clean DC but relies on the Battery for filtering.  Antifreeze is designed to be a corrosion inhibitor with the use of proprietary
compounds.  If the antifreeze is contaminated with substances that make it acidic it will cause electrolytic corrosion with either a battery charger or the alternator.  The best way to prevent this is change the antifreeze in accordance with the antifreeze manufacturers recommendation.  If you really want to make sure you are not introducing contaminants use distilled water.  The best way to keep your battery charged is to drive it.

Ron 


From: 	David Teitelbaum [mailto:jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net] 
Sent:	Sunday, August 22, 2004 11:48 PM
To:	dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject:	[DML] Re: Charging Problem.......Help :)

> I do not recomend a permanently installed trickle charger. It will
> impress a very low A/C voltage on the car's electrical system. This
> will cause electrolytic corrosion in the cooling system, the coolant
> will act as an electrolyte between the dissimilar metals, aluminum,
> steel, and brass. If you want to use a trickle charger my advice is to
> use it for 1 day, once a month. I have seen trickle chargers dry out
> the batteries in some cars. There is no way to replenish the
> electrolye on the new  batteries. On the older type where you can add
> water I have seen the need to add water when a trickle charger was
> used. They do not appear to be as automatic as they would have you
> believe. When you say trickle charger I assume you really mean the
> newer computerized "float" chargers like the Battery Tender. Even with
> a battery switch a battery will lose it's charge slowly over time.
> That is why it really is better for a battery to be in a car that is
> used regularly. The battery is always kept charged up fully. For a car
> that is being stored the "best" thing to do is to remove the battery
> anyway.

[very long duplicate quote trimmed by moderator]



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


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