From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2191
Date: Tuesday, August 24, 2004 3:42 AM

There are 14 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Door won't close
From: "llynn019" <llynn019_at_dml_yahoo.com>

2. DMC Club picnic and the former AG Becker estate
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>

3. Re: New sputtering problem
From: PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com

4. Re: New sputtering problem
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

5. Cooling System Care
From: Rod Dillman <rhdillman_at_dml_yahoo.com>

6. Re: Low fuel warning indicator
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

7. MTV Commercial
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>

8. Re: Low fuel warning indicator
From: "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_cox.net>

9. Re: Door won't close
From: "Jeff Phillips" <jmanis2_at_dml_yahoo.com>

10. Re: Door won't close
From: Christopher Mack <christopher_mack_at_dml_yahoo.com>

11. Re: Low fuel warning indicator
From: John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_yahoo.com>

12. Re: New sputtering problem
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

13. Re: Low fuel warning indicator
From: "bkp944" <bk_pollard_at_dml_hotmail.com>

14. Re: Still a starting problem
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2004 19:59:20 -0000
From: "llynn019" <llynn019_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Door won't close

Unfortunately when the driver door was open the front latch got 
pushed to the "latched" position.  Now I can't close the door and I 
can't get it to "unlatch."  Any suggestions... I have tried to move 
it manually in conjunction with the door handle release and with a 
screwdriver... it isn't moving.

Thanks
Lorraine




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2004 18:32:00 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>
Subject: DMC Club picnic and the former AG Becker estate

The Delorean Midwest Connection club picnic was this past Saturday
and a big thanks goes out to Tony and Robin Swann for inviting our
bunch of Delorean fanatics out to their family's summer home, the
former AG Becker estate, on nearly 20 acres of beautiful gardens,
bluffs, woodlands and private beach, over-looking Lake Michigan.
This will go down as one of our clubs premier events of all time.

As Marvin mentioned with the Woodward Cruise, this past Saturday
in Chicago was picture perfect, 100% sunshine, 75 degrees, very 
low humidity and a gentle lake breeze made for ideal weather for
a picnic.  Sitting in the backyard or on the beach was tranquil,
except for the occasional jet fighter passing by on its way to
the Chicago Air Show about 20 miles south, near North Ave. beach.

We had our Deloreans parked on the circular driveway in front of
the house, which made for excellent photo opportunities for all.
And if the surroundings were not already special enough, the food
certainly exceeded everyone's expectations.  Burgers, brats, corn
on the cob, hotdogs and a few other things started it all off,
with plenty of side dishes and enough variety of beverages to
keep everyone happy and hydrated.  However, who can forget the
desserts, including a delicious chocolate cake with an airbrushed
photo of a Delorean on it.  Outstanding!! (thanks Jay)  No one
dared to leave hungry or thirsty.

I will be putting some photos together for Dave S. to post on the
DMC News website under the Gatherings section, so if you missed
all the food and fun, or just want to re-live it again, I hope to
have some photos posted up there soon.

If you are not a member of the Delorean Midwest Connection club,
please note we have an upcoming Fall Tech Session and the British
Car Union events coming up on Sept. 11 and 12.  Check out the club
website for more details.  http://www.delorean-midwest.org

Later,
Rich W.




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2004 17:50:58 EDT
From: PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: New sputtering problem

The same thing happened to me about a week ago.   I couldn't even drive it.   
I replaced the warm up regulator with Hervey's, which didn't do much to fix 
the problem.   Next I replaced the spark plug wires with Hervey's 8mm version.  
 That fixed the problem, and the car flies like a bat out of hell now (at 
least compared to what it had been driving like for the past year).   If you have 
the original wires, I suggest replacing them like I did.   Also, check out 
the pickup coil with an ohm meter by uplugging the connection that goes into the 
firewall on the bottom lefthand corner.   See if that has resistance, and if 
not, that may be the problem.

Patrick
1880


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2004 21:00:47 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: New sputtering problem

If it sputters when you give it hard gas, it sounds like a problem a 
few of us are having. I too have replaced the entire fuel and 
ignition system INCLUDING the ignition ECU without success.

I'm a 5-speed though so our symptoms may differ a bit.

Rich A.
#5335

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Enid/Jeremiah 
<hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Ok everyone, here is a new scenario.  Give me whatever
> you can think of.
> 
> Engine cold.  Car runs fine.
> 
> Engine warm - the rpms bounce around.  The bouncing is
> minimal - less than 100 rpm fluctuation, but it's
> definitely noticeable when idling.  It does this in
> all gears (automatic transmission).  Next if you give
> the car gas, the engine "sputters"; you can actually
> feel the engine sputter from 0-1000 rpms.  As you gain
> acceleration (and this is after...2 seconds tops), the
> sputtering goes away, and the engine is normal.  If
> you only go 0-25 mph and come to a complete stop, the
> engine will continue to sputter when idling/rolling
> slowly, the rpms jump around, and this problem
> continues.  
> If you go above 35 mph at a fast pace (basically, you
> give it hard gas..NOT flooring it), then come to a
> complete stop - the problem goes away completely.  The
> car runs normally and everything described is gone.  
> 
> Turn car off, wait a couple minutes, turn car on, and
> the problem begins all over again.
> 
> It does not do this at a cold startup.
> 
> For a thorough but not complete list of what I've done
> in repairs and restoration to the car, look here:
> http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/534926/3
> 
> I did check the auto tranny fluid just to be safe;
> it's cherry red.  All plug wires are on solidly. 
> Except for the fuel accumulator, the entire fuel
> system has been replaced and cleaned.  Could it have
> anything to do with the electric distributor or one of
> the ecus?  Just throwing thoughts out here; I'm at
> school so I can't completely diagnose the problem
> until I get home.  Throw me whatever you've got
> everyone.
> 
> Jeremiah
> Winner of the Greasiest Hands Award, and ready to get
> dirty and greasy again.
> 
> ** - On a very interesting note, this problem used to
> happen once every 2 months or so.  This would happen
> if the car was hot, cold, warm - it was completely
> sporadic.  Now it does it everytime the car is hot
> started. - **




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2004 15:08:29 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rod Dillman <rhdillman_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Cooling System Care

When flushing a cooling system should the new coolant be mixed with tap water or distilled water or does it really matter? Several years ago I had a head gasket failure on an aluminium block Cadillac engine and the service manager told me  that if I had added GM Cooling System Seal Tabs(Part No. 3634621-a $4 part) with an engine flush every 3 or 4 years it would likely have eliminated a $1500 head gasket repair. Since the DeLorean engine block is aluminium should a similiar additive be used in it?  Your thoughts will be appreciated.

		
---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Win 1 of 4,000 free domain names from Yahoo! Enter now.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2004 21:04:15 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: Low fuel warning indicator

Brian,

The sender is pretty new. The light is supposed to come on at around 
1.3 gallons remaining according to the owner's manual. Mine seems to 
come on around 2 gallons remaining but I have an original fuel sender.

If you're really desperate to know if it works, drive it until you're 
low, then carry a small, plastic jerry can aroung with you.

Rich A.
#5335

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "bkp944" <bk_pollard_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> Hello group,
> 
> Approximately how much fuel is left in your tank when your low fuel 
> warning indicator comes on?
> 
> 
> I have only been a DeLorean owner for about 6 months and am on my 
> 5th or 6th tank of fuel. I have never seen the low fuel warning 
lamp 
> come on, although I know the bulb is good.
> 
> When I turn the ignition to the run position without starting the 
> car, my low fuel lamp does not illuminate. I know modern cars will 
> illuminate the low-fuel warning lamp as a circuit check under such 
> conditions, but it is my guess the DeLorean's sender does not have 
> this much "intelligence" built in (unless, of course, the fuel tank 
> is nearly empty).
> 
> I have not replaced my fuel sender, but it says delorean.com on it, 
> so it much be DMCH's. I do not know how old it is. It appears to 
> work just fine, with the possible exception of the low fuel warning.
> 
> I have been running the fuel down low trying to get the low fuel 
> warning indicator to illuminate, but it hasn't so far. Last fillup 
> was a little over 11 gallons. I thought that would be sufficient to 
> illuminate the indicator, certainly as fuel was sloshing about and 
> the fuel gauge would go down to "0".
> 
> What is everyone else's experience? I imagine this will depend what 
> fuel sender you have installed, so I am primarily interested in 
DMCH 
> sender users.
> 
> Thanks,
> Brian
> VIN# 4494




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2004 17:42:25 -0400
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: MTV Commercial

Featuring the Delorean now available at:

http://www.eliseusa.com/delorean.htm



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2004 22:41:23 -0000
From: "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Low fuel warning indicator

Honestly, I wouldn't try to see if the light comes on by running your 
car out of fuel.  You may also end up having to buy DMCH's fuel pump 
if you do and possibly push your car home

I have their sender as well, and it takes a really low tank to get 
the light to come on.  Also makes your fuel pump whine for fuel and 
possibly burn up.

If you really, really must see that light come on, you could swap 
your seatbelt indicator with it.  I haven't tried it before, so good 
luck.

Johnny
5518



 
> I have been running the fuel down low trying to get the low fuel 
> warning indicator to illuminate, but it hasn't so far. Last fillup 
> was a little over 11 gallons. I thought that would be sufficient to 
> illuminate the indicator, certainly as fuel was sloshing about and 
> the fuel gauge would go down to "0".





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2004 23:13:17 -0000
From: "Jeff Phillips" <jmanis2_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Door won't close

Try latching the other latch and then pulling the handle to open 
them both.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "llynn019" <llynn019_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Unfortunately when the driver door was open the front latch got 
> pushed to the "latched" position.  Now I can't close the door and 
I 
> can't get it to "unlatch."  Any suggestions... I have tried to 
move 
> it manually in conjunction with the door handle release and with a 
> screwdriver... it isn't moving.
> 
> Thanks
> Lorraine




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2004 17:06:14 -0700 (PDT)
From: Christopher Mack <christopher_mack_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Door won't close

Lorraine,

did you try using the key in the door to unlock it to
get the latch out of the latched position?  let me
know if this works  I had a different problem then
yours a few times. When opening my door the front
latch wouldn't unlatch so I couldn't get the door
open.  TO get past this I had to open the door by
reaching in and pulling up on the door handle and then
pull on the exterior door handle.

-Chris
VIN #6453
--- llynn019 <llynn019_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:

> Unfortunately when the driver door was open the
> front latch got 
> pushed to the "latched" position.  Now I can't close
> the door and I 
> can't get it to "unlatch."  Any suggestions... I
> have tried to move 
> it manually in conjunction with the door handle
> release and with a 
> screwdriver... it isn't moving.
> 
> Thanks
> Lorraine



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2004 17:32:10 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Low fuel warning indicator

I have the same fuel sender from DMCH for about a year and a half now and after about a year ago I no longer get a low fuel warning light, although it does work.  Hope it is still under warranty???

bkp944 <bk_pollard_at_dml_hotmail.com> wrote:
> Hello group,
> 
> Approximately how much fuel is left in your tank when your low fuel 
> warning indicator comes on?
> 
> 
> I have only been a DeLorean owner for about 6 months and am on my 
> 5th or 6th tank of fuel. I have never seen the low fuel warning lamp 
> come on, although I know the bulb is good.
> 
> When I turn the ignition to the run position without starting the 
> car, my low fuel lamp does not illuminate. I know modern cars will 
> illuminate the low-fuel warning lamp as a circuit check under such 
> conditions, but it is my guess the DeLorean's sender does not have 
> this much "intelligence" built in (unless, of course, the fuel tank 
> is nearly empty).
> 
> I have not replaced my fuel sender, but it says delorean.com on it, 
> so it much be DMCH's. I do not know how old it is. It appears to 
> work just fine, with the possible exception of the low fuel warning.
> 
> I have been running the fuel down low trying to get the low fuel 
> warning indicator to illuminate, but it hasn't so far. Last fillup 
> was a little over 11 gallons. I thought that would be sufficient to 
> illuminate the indicator, certainly as fuel was sloshing about and 
> the fuel gauge would go down to "0".
> 
> What is everyone else's experience? I imagine this will depend what 
> fuel sender you have installed, so I am primarily interested in DMCH 
> sender users.
> 
> Thanks,
> Brian
> VIN# 4494



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2004 01:14:27 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: New sputtering problem

Have you checked the adjustment on the idle speed motor control 
switch (it also activates a vacumm advance control switch)? Sounds 
like it is staying closed too long or possibily sticking.

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Enid/Jeremiah 
<hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Ok everyone, here is a new scenario.  Give me whatever
> you can think of.
> 
> Engine cold.  Car runs fine.
> 
> Engine warm - the rpms bounce around.  The bouncing is
> minimal - less than 100 rpm fluctuation, but it's
> definitely noticeable when idling.  It does this in
> all gears (automatic transmission).  Next if you give
> the car gas, the engine "sputters"; you can actually
> feel the engine sputter from 0-1000 rpms.  As you gain
> acceleration (and this is after...2 seconds tops), the
> sputtering goes away, and the engine is normal.  If
> you only go 0-25 mph and come to a complete stop, the
> engine will continue to sputter when idling/rolling
> slowly, the rpms jump around, and this problem
> continues.  
> If you go above 35 mph at a fast pace (basically, you
> give it hard gas..NOT flooring it), then come to a
> complete stop - the problem goes away completely.  The
> car runs normally and everything described is gone.  
> 
> Turn car off, wait a couple minutes, turn car on, and
> the problem begins all over again.
> 
> It does not do this at a cold startup.
> 
> For a thorough but not complete list of what I've done
> in repairs and restoration to the car, look here:
> http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/534926/3
> 
> I did check the auto tranny fluid just to be safe;
> it's cherry red.  All plug wires are on solidly. 
> Except for the fuel accumulator, the entire fuel
> system has been replaced and cleaned.  Could it have
> anything to do with the electric distributor or one of
> the ecus?  Just throwing thoughts out here; I'm at
> school so I can't completely diagnose the problem
> until I get home.  Throw me whatever you've got
> everyone.
> 
> Jeremiah
> Winner of the Greasiest Hands Award, and ready to get
> dirty and greasy again.
> 
> ** - On a very interesting note, this problem used to
> happen once every 2 months or so.  This would happen
> if the car was hot, cold, warm - it was completely
> sporadic.  Now it does it everytime the car is hot
> started. - **




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2004 01:46:03 -0000
From: "bkp944" <bk_pollard_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Low fuel warning indicator

Rich,

Thanks for the answer. Driving it all the way out was my next step - 
while carrying a 2.5 gallon gas can under the bonnett.

Must have been very close to "seeing the light" the last time. I'll 
push it a bit further this time (under 1/2 tank now).

-Brian
VIN#4494



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Brian,
> 
> The sender is pretty new. The light is supposed to come on at 
around 
> 1.3 gallons remaining according to the owner's manual. Mine seems 
to 
> come on around 2 gallons remaining but I have an original fuel 
sender.
> 
> If you're really desperate to know if it works, drive it until 
you're 
> low, then carry a small, plastic jerry can aroung with you.
> 
> Rich A.
> #5335
> 





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2004 00:32:03 -0000
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Still a starting problem

I apologize, I didn't really think about the incline problem until
yesterday when I was at the parts store buying some parts for my 50
buick and it gave me a hell of a time to start. Anyway, I had the tank
out in March and cleaned it but I will do it again just for piece of
mind. Also about the suction hose, I have the stock soft hose, it is
really flimsy... How does it connect to the baffle on the bottom? Is
it possible to install a thicker rubber fuel hose from the pump to the
baffle? The soft hose has those formed curves so it can go from the
baffle to the pump, but a previous owner cut down the hose so much
that it just doesn't seem to install that great. Lastly, where is the
baffle supposed to sit in the tank? I have mine pointed towards the
back of the tank. Thanks so much for your help, maybe soon I'll be
able to start my car with no problems! Thanks again-Dani B. 5003

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...>
wrote:
> Gee! you have a lot of problems with your car! And you don't mention
> them all at 1 time. For your incline problem pull the fuel pump,
drain
> and wipe out the fuel tank, and inspect all the parts in there. Make
> sure they are all there, and they are properly positioned. I suspect
> you will need to replace your suction hose. You may also need new
> boots for the fuel pump, especailly if they do not fit good but in
any
> case if they are deteriorated. This may also help with your cold
start
> problem. The fuel pump is geting air into the fuel system and not
> getting the pressure up like it should. Like I said before, MANY of
> the fuel system problems begin in the fuel tank! I think if you ever
> have any fuel system problems the FIRST thing that should be done is
> an inspection in the tank. You will be amazed at the conditions
that I
> have seen even on good running cars have in the tank. From
completely
> deteriorated boots to rust to water sloshing around, dirt, and parts
> put of position. And I don't see all that many cars so most of the
> Deloreans out there probably should have the fuel tanks cleaned out
> and inspected! It isn't all that hard to do. The biggest thing is to
> safely get the fuel out and that can be made easy if you run the
tank
> down by driving. I recomend that when you store the car for the
winter
> you drain ALL the fuel out and wipe out the tank. That way when you
> start the car up in the Spring you can do it on FRESH gas. BTW the
gas
> companies blend fuel for each season so if you parked the car on
Fall
> gas it will not be the right blend for the Spring besides being
months
> old. One bad tank of gas can really ruin your day. If the station
has
> a leaky tank and you get a big slug of water your fuel injection
> system will not like it one bit! It will stay in your tank because
it
> goes right to the bottom.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> > I will check out the cold start valve and jump the switch today.
But I
> > also wanted to mention that I discovered the vehicle WILL NOT
start
> > when the front end is inclined up more the the rear like parking
on a
> > hill or any slight incline for that matter. Doesn't matter when I
come
> > back to start it, it will not start without spray or until it is
level
> > again. Must be a malfunction in the tank still??? Thanks, Dani B.
5003
> > 
> > --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...>
> > wrote:




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
    dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
    http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
 
------------------------------------------------------------------------