From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2192
Date: Tuesday, August 24, 2004 4:11 PM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Cooling System Care
From: "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_cox.net>

2. Re: Low fuel warning indicator
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

3. Re: Cooling System Care
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

4. Re: Still a starting problem
From: "Mike" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>

5. Re: Still a starting problem
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

6. Re: Charging Problem.......Help :)
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

7. Re: New sputtering problem
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

8. Re: Low fuel warning indicator
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>

9. Re: Door won't close
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>

10. Funny stories about DeLoreans. This ones the best.
From: Scott Curnow <scott_curnow_at_dml_yahoo.com.au>

11. Rear Bumper Lettering
From: "Mike" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>

12. Re: Cooling System Care
From: Andrew Prentis <aprentis_at_dml_rocketmail.com>

13. Re: Rear Bumper Lettering
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>

14. RE: Re: DeLorean's dumped into the sea?
From: "Dom Diaz" <dom_diaz_at_dml_hotmail.com>

15. Low Brake Fluid Indicator: was Low fuel warning indicator
From: "bkp944" <bk_pollard_at_dml_hotmail.com>

16. Door and window alignment
From: "Jeff Phillips" <jmanis2_at_dml_yahoo.com>

17. CO2 screw supply
From: "Jeff Phillips" <jmanis2_at_dml_yahoo.com>

18. Charging Problem.......Solved! :)........
From: "Mike" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>

19. Fuel Economy
From: "Jeff Phillips" <jmanis2_at_dml_yahoo.com>

20. Re: Cooling System Care
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

21. car covers
From: "Mike Walsh" <yahoo_at_dml_oneskydojo.com>

22. Re: Cooling System Care
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

23. Re: Rear Bumper Lettering
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

24. Re: DeLorean "Computers"/Jump Starting (Lauren)
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

25. Re: BLINKERS BLINKERS(half way solved)
From: John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2004 02:08:11 -0000
From: "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Cooling System Care

You *can* use distilled water, but it will be a bit more expensive 
and more difficult to get the water flowing thru to really flush it.

I thought about the same thing when I did mine, and the garden hose 
worked best.

If you remove the engine block drain plugs after you flush it, you 
will get practially all of the water out.  Besides, if you do it 
every two years anyway, you'll be maintaing your system properly.

Don't forget to pressure-bleed the radiator to get the air out after 
you fill it back up with coolant.

Johnny
5518


> When flushing a cooling system should the new coolant be mixed 
with tap water or distilled water or does it really matter? Several 
years ago I had a head gasket failure on an aluminium block Cadillac 
engine and the service manager told me  that if I had added GM 
Cooling System Seal Tabs(Part No. 3634621-a $4 part) with an engine 
flush every 3 or 4 years it would likely have eliminated a $1500 
head gasket repair. Since the DeLorean engine block is aluminium 
should a similiar additive be used in it?  Your thoughts will be 
appreciated.
> 
> 		
> ---------------------------------
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Win 1 of 4,000 free domain names from Yahoo! Enter now.
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2004 03:27:04 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Low fuel warning indicator

A very simple way to test the light is to remove the spare tire,
remove the cover, and with the key on slowly lift the sender unit out
of the tank until the low fuel light goes on. While you are in there
ther is a test button on the brake resovoir to test the low brake
fluid light. Neither light does not "self test" when you start the
car. The other condition that light s the brake light is the emergency
brake.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757   


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "bkp944" <bk_pollard_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> Rich,
> 
> Thanks for the answer. Driving it all the way out was my next step - 
> while carrying a 2.5 gallon gas can under the bonnett.
> 
> Must have been very close to "seeing the light" the last time. I'll 
> push it a bit further this time (under 1/2 tank now).
> 
> -Brian
> VIN#4494
> 
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> > Brian,
> > 
> > The sender is pretty new. The light is supposed to come on at 
> around 
> > 1.3 gallons remaining according to the owner's manual. Mine seems 
> to 
> > come on around 2 gallons remaining but I have an original fuel 
> sender.
> > 
> > If you're really desperate to know if it works, drive it until 
> you're 
> > low, then carry a small, plastic jerry can aroung with you.
> > 
> > Rich A.
> > #5335
> >




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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2004 04:51:39 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: Cooling System Care

Rod - As far as the coolant is concerned, the conservative approach 
is to use a 50/50 mix of a good quality antifreeze that has anti-
corrosion additives for aluminum engines with distilled water.  Tap 
water CAN have minerals that can build up in the cooling system, 
eventually causing restrictions in the flow, and blockages (worst 
case).  You shouldn't use deionized water because it can be 
chemically aggressive.  Honestly, most people that I know use plain 
tap water with antifreeze and seem to get along just fine, but 
distilled water would be the best.  If you have extremely soft tap 
water, I would definitely head towards distilled water, as soft 
water is more corrosive.  Ask your local hot tub guy about that.  In 
regards to the chronic use of system sealants such as what you 
mentioned, I think that you'll find that the consensus is that it's 
a bad thing over time because that too may build up in the system, 
and result in the same problems as mineralization.  Proper 
maintenance should allow you to avoid "over-medicating" your car.  
Additives that make water a better cooling media (Redline products), 
and provide better corrosion protection and water pump lubrication 
are always welcome. 

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Rod Dillman <rhdillman_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> When flushing a cooling system should the new coolant be mixed 
with tap water or distilled water or does it really matter? Several 
years ago I had a head gasket failure on an aluminium block Cadillac 
engine and the service manager told me  that if I had added GM 
Cooling System Seal Tabs(Part No. 3634621-a $4 part) with an engine 
flush every 3 or 4 years it would likely have eliminated a $1500 
head gasket repair. Since the DeLorean engine block is aluminium 
should a similiar additive be used in it?  Your thoughts will be 
appreciated.





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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2004 08:11:42 -0000
From: "Mike" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Still a starting problem



Your baffle arrangement isn't doing you any favours ...I had no end 
of trouble with my standard hose collapsing, car juddering and damm 
noisy fuel pump and lines...... my fuel pump and baffle was in and 
out at least 6 times over 2 weeks, worked fine for a while with the 
petrol rash to show for it !.... in the end i bought J.Hervey's 'own' 
baffle and pick up hose kit...fitted easily and works great and damm 
quiet too.... and certainly no more probs on the hills round here!

No more messing with silly plastic baffles and kinked soft hoses for 
me! :)







mike
#2001
Yorkshire, UK


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> I apologize, I didn't really think about the incline problem until
> yesterday when I was at the parts store buying some parts for my 50
> buick and it gave me a hell of a time to start. Anyway, I had the 
tank
> out in March and cleaned it but I will do it again just for piece of
> mind. Also about the suction hose, I have the stock soft hose, it is
> really flimsy... How does it connect to the baffle on the bottom? Is
> it possible to install a thicker rubber fuel hose from the pump to 
the
> baffle? The soft hose has those formed curves so it can go from the
> baffle to the pump, but a previous owner cut down the hose so much
> that it just doesn't seem to install that great. Lastly, where is 
the
> baffle supposed to sit in the tank? I have mine pointed towards the
> back of the tank. Thanks so much for your help, maybe soon I'll be
> able to start my car with no problems! Thanks again-Dani B. 5003
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...>
> wrote:
> > Gee! you have a lot of problems with your car! And you don't 
mention
> > them all at 1 time. For your incline problem pull the fuel pump,
> drain
> > and wipe out the fuel tank, and inspect all the parts in there. 
Make
> > sure they are all there, and they are properly positioned. I 
suspect
> > you will need to replace your suction hose. You may also need new
> > boots for the fuel pump, especailly if they do not fit good but in
> any
> > case if they are deteriorated. This may also help with your cold
> start
> > problem. The fuel pump is geting air into the fuel system and not
> > getting the pressure up like it should. Like I said before, MANY 
of
> > the fuel system problems begin in the fuel tank! I think if you 
ever
> > have any fuel system problems the FIRST thing that should be done 
is
> > an inspection in the tank. You will be amazed at the conditions
> that I
> > have seen even on good running cars have in the tank. From
> completely
> > deteriorated boots to rust to water sloshing around, dirt, and 
parts
> > put of position. And I don't see all that many cars so most of the
> > Deloreans out there probably should have the fuel tanks cleaned 
out
> > and inspected! It isn't all that hard to do. The biggest thing is 
to
> > safely get the fuel out and that can be made easy if you run the
> tank
> > down by driving. I recomend that when you store the car for the
> winter
> > you drain ALL the fuel out and wipe out the tank. That way when 
you
> > start the car up in the Spring you can do it on FRESH gas. BTW the
> gas
> > companies blend fuel for each season so if you parked the car on
> Fall
> > gas it will not be the right blend for the Spring besides being
> months
> > old. One bad tank of gas can really ruin your day. If the station
> has
> > a leaky tank and you get a big slug of water your fuel injection
> > system will not like it one bit! It will stay in your tank because
> it
> > goes right to the bottom.
> > David Teitelbaum
> > vin 10757
> > 
> > 
> > --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> > > I will check out the cold start valve and jump the switch today.
> But I
> > > also wanted to mention that I discovered the vehicle WILL NOT
> start
> > > when the front end is inclined up more the the rear like parking
> on a
> > > hill or any slight incline for that matter. Doesn't matter when 
I
> come
> > > back to start it, it will not start without spray or until it is
> level
> > > again. Must be a malfunction in the tank still??? Thanks, Dani 
B.
> 5003
> > > 
> > > --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" 
<jtrealty_at_dml_w...>
> > > wrote:




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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2004 03:09:40 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Still a starting problem

If the hose is soft and cut short and not even connected to the baffle
you do indeed have a problem. I would replace the hose first of all.
The replacement that Rob Grady sells is a lot stiffer than the
origional. You could also put a spring inside if you want. The hose
goes to the center screened baffle inside the tank. A picture is in
the Parts Manual 2-1-0. The baffle goes off center, there is a bump in
the tank to help locate it. The whole assembly has to be inserted in
pieces and assembled inside the tank, like a ship in a bottle.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> I apologize, I didn't really think about the incline problem until
> yesterday when I was at the parts store buying some parts for my 50
> buick and it gave me a hell of a time to start. Anyway, I had the tank
> out in March and cleaned it but I will do it again just for piece of
> mind. Also about the suction hose, I have the stock soft hose, it is
> really flimsy... How does it connect to the baffle on the bottom? Is
> it possible to install a thicker rubber fuel hose from the pump to the
> baffle? The soft hose has those formed curves so it can go from the
> baffle to the pump, but a previous owner cut down the hose so much
> that it just doesn't seem to install that great. Lastly, where is the
> baffle supposed to sit in the tank? I have mine pointed towards the
> back of the tank. Thanks so much for your help, maybe soon I'll be
> able to start my car with no problems! Thanks again-Dani B. 5003
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...>
> wrote:
> > Gee! you have a lot of problems with your car! And you don't mention
> > them all at 1 time. For your incline problem pull the fuel pump,
> drain
> > and wipe out the fuel tank, and inspect all the parts in there. Make
> > sure they are all there, and they are properly positioned. I suspect
> > you will need to replace your suction hose. You may also need new
> > boots for the fuel pump, especailly if they do not fit good but in
> any
> > case if they are deteriorated. This may also help with your cold
> start
> > problem. The fuel pump is geting air into the fuel system and not
> > getting the pressure up like it should. Like I said before, MANY of
> > the fuel system problems begin in the fuel tank! I think if you ever
> > have any fuel system problems the FIRST thing that should be done is
> > an inspection in the tank. You will be amazed at the conditions
> that I
> > have seen even on good running cars have in the tank. From
> completely
> > deteriorated boots to rust to water sloshing around, dirt, and parts
> > put of position. And I don't see all that many cars so most of the
> > Deloreans out there probably should have the fuel tanks cleaned out
> > and inspected! It isn't all that hard to do. The biggest thing is to
> > safely get the fuel out and that can be made easy if you run the
> tank
> > down by driving. I recomend that when you store the car for the
> winter
> > you drain ALL the fuel out and wipe out the tank. That way when you
> > start the car up in the Spring you can do it on FRESH gas. BTW the
> gas
> > companies blend fuel for each season so if you parked the car on
> Fall
> > gas it will not be the right blend for the Spring besides being
> months
> > old. One bad tank of gas can really ruin your day. If the station
> has
> > a leaky tank and you get a big slug of water your fuel injection
> > system will not like it one bit! It will stay in your tank because
> it
> > goes right to the bottom.
> > David Teitelbaum
> > vin 10757
> > 
> > 
> > --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> > > I will check out the cold start valve and jump the switch today.
> But I
> > > also wanted to mention that I discovered the vehicle WILL NOT
> start
> > > when the front end is inclined up more the the rear like parking
> on a
> > > hill or any slight incline for that matter. Doesn't matter when I
> come
> > > back to start it, it will not start without spray or until it is
> level
> > > again. Must be a malfunction in the tank still??? Thanks, Dani B.
> 5003
> > > 
> > > --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...>
> > > wrote:




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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2004 03:22:58 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Charging Problem.......Help :)

I understand that plating is a DC process. I have also seen
(especailly on boats) where you get AC leakage and all the fittings
will dissolve. I don't like the idea of having the car continuosly
connected up to the house AC power. I have seen electralisys (oops) on
cars and the best guess was the trickle (float) charge that the owner
says he used. Old anit-freeze will only contribute to the problem.
There can be a HUGE difference between a battery charger and an
alternator. Alternators do not have much filtering so they send out a
large ripple that the battery absorbs. Some battery chargers do much
worse and if the battery is bad then there is nothing to absorb the
ripple. The AC will float around with small leakage currents capable
of causing electrolysys (oops again). The one thing we both agree on
is that cars were made to be driven. With all the different types of
metals used in the car any electrolysys is dangerous. Especially over
a prolonged period of time. If you HAVE to use a charger continuosly
at least remove the battery from the car.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Cirillo Ronald A NPRI <cirillora_at_dml_n...>
wrote:
> Dave,
> 
> I saw this post and I had to add my 2 cents worth.  I agree that a
trickle charger left on all the time is not a good idea because of the
possibility of overcharging.  A float charger may work depending if it
is indeed a float charger.  A battery will lose a charge very slowly
because of its internal resistance that constantly causes current to
be drained.  I respectfully disagree with the antifreeze electrolyte
hypothesis.  First of all, electrolytic corrosion is basically a DC 




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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2004 03:28:45 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: New sputtering problem

My guess is a vacuum leak in the advance system for the ignition.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> Have you checked the adjustment on the idle speed motor control 
> switch (it also activates a vacumm advance control switch)? Sounds 
> like it is staying closed too long or possibily sticking.
> 
> Harold McElraft - 3354
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Enid/Jeremiah 
> <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> > Ok everyone, here is a new scenario.  Give me whatever
> > you can think of.
> > 
> > Engine cold.  Car runs fine.
> > 
> > Engine warm - the rpms bounce around.  The bouncing is
> > minimal - less than 100 rpm fluctuation, but it's
> > definitely noticeable when idling.  It does this in
> > all gears (automatic transmission).  Next if you give
> > the car gas, the engine "sputters"; you can actually
> > feel the engine sputter from 0-1000 rpms.  As you gain
> > acceleration (and this is after...2 seconds tops), the
> > sputtering goes away, and the engine is normal.  If
> > you only go 0-25 mph and come to a complete stop, the
> > engine will continue to sputter when idling/rolling
> > slowly, the rpms jump around, and this problem
> > continues.  
> > If you go above 35 mph at a fast pace (basically, you
> > give it hard gas..NOT flooring it), then come to a
> > complete stop - the problem goes away completely.  The
> > car runs normally and everything described is gone.  
> > 
> > Turn car off, wait a couple minutes, turn car on, and
> > the problem begins all over again.
> > 
> > It does not do this at a cold startup.
> > 
> > For a thorough but not complete list of what I've done
> > in repairs and restoration to the car, look here:
> > http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/534926/3
> > 
> > I did check the auto tranny fluid just to be safe;
> > it's cherry red.  All plug wires are on solidly. 
> > Except for the fuel accumulator, the entire fuel
> > system has been replaced and cleaned.  Could it have
> > anything to do with the electric distributor or one of
> > the ecus?  Just throwing thoughts out here; I'm at
> > school so I can't completely diagnose the problem
> > until I get home.  Throw me whatever you've got
> > everyone.
> > 
> > Jeremiah
> > Winner of the Greasiest Hands Award, and ready to get
> > dirty and greasy again.
> > 
> > ** - On a very interesting note, this problem used to
> > happen once every 2 months or so.  This would happen
> > if the car was hot, cold, warm - it was completely
> > sporadic.  Now it does it everytime the car is hot
> > started. - **




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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2004 05:29:00 -0000
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Low fuel warning indicator

Last time I replaced the fuel pump on #2524 I had previously drove 
it low the night before to minimize the hand pumping of 5 gallons of 
gas. When my light came on I drove an additional 35-40 miles home. 
The next day I siphoned out 2 3/4 gallons of gas. As with many 
people that have DMCH's sender you have anywhere from 3 to 3 1/2 
gallons left when it comes on, depending slightly on the angle you 
are sitting at. As in reading their site, it gives you a more 
extended range over the OEM sender, which is very obvious.

It works on a series of switches, which if you notice when you look 
at the fuel gauge, then look back a little while later, you've 
dropped a significant amount. Once the float has reached a certain 
point, it corresponds the gauge to fall to that level, no smooth 
transition. Bugged me at first, like I thought I was getting 
horrible fuel economy at times, then after being explained how it 
works, it all makes sense. 

If you are bottoming out on the gauge, and still no light, maybe the 
bulb is burnt out? Try switching bulbs, they are cheap. Usually you 
will have a descent amount of fuel when the light comes on with 
DMCH's sender. Works nice in the effect if you don't push driving 
with the light on, you shouldn't burn up your fuel pump.

Just don't get me started on the reliability of the junk fuel pumps 
the Delorean has. I can now change them blindfolded after doing over 
5 of them. And now I think 16634 needs a new pump after an amazing 
52 miles on the new on I just installed. Yeah! What fun.


Joe O'Brien

2524 & 16634







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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2004 09:26:42 -0000
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Door won't close

You will half to use some force, but if your problem is that you 
simply moved the latch while the door was up, a screwdriver, used 
forcefully will bring it back to the proper position. I've had to do 
it before because of a dumb kid, aka my brother was messing with my 
doors one day when I had my car over there. He knows there is a 
strict "no touching" policy now.


Joe OBrien

2524 & 16634











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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2004 19:46:07 +1000 (EST)
From: Scott Curnow <scott_curnow_at_dml_yahoo.com.au>
Subject: Funny stories about DeLoreans. This ones the best.

While at work today i was looking at a car magazine which a friend was reading. I noticed a DeLorean for sale and we began chatting about it. A little later another person comes over and saids to me. You know that car was built by Cuban drug lords to get rid of excess money and was built in Cuba. I was startled immediatley correcting him stating that the DeLorean was in fact built in Ireland and not by Cuban drug lords. I told him that John DeLorean was arrested with the supposed cocaine stories but that was the closest thing. Anyway most certainly one of the strangest story ive ever heard.
 
>From Scott



---------------------------------
Find local movie times and trailers on Yahoo! Movies.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2004 12:26:23 -0000
From: "Mike" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>
Subject: Rear Bumper Lettering

Hi All

Does anyone know where i can get hold of some rear bumper lettering?.
not the ones that fit in the recess ie: individual letters, but the 
one which is like a plaque with the lettering cut out?

Thanks All


Mike



#2001
Yorkshire, UK




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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2004 03:45:04 -0700 (PDT)
From: Andrew Prentis <aprentis_at_dml_rocketmail.com>
Subject: Re: Cooling System Care

I changed my car's coolant last weekend and used
distilled water with the anti freeze.Definately better
to use that than tap water since tap water has alot of
additives and impurities in it which can eat away at
the engine over time.
I've never used an additive in my car and don't think
it is necessary as long as you stick with a good name
brand coolant.In Australia a couple of years ago they
tested some cheap brands of coolant and found they
were just made of water with green dye in it!
I also think coolant should be changed more frequently
than 3-4 years.I change mine every 2 years.
More crucial though is to get the 50/50 mix of anti
freeze/anti corrosion and water correct.

Andrew
VIN 2883
Sydney,Aus.

--- Rod Dillman <rhdillman_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:

> When flushing a cooling system should the new
> coolant be mixed with tap water or distilled water
> or does it really matter? Several years ago I had a
> head gasket failure on an aluminium block Cadillac
> engine and the service manager told me  that if I
> had added GM Cooling System Seal Tabs(Part No.
> 3634621-a $4 part) with an engine flush every 3 or 4
> years it would likely have eliminated a $1500 head
> gasket repair. Since the DeLorean engine block is
> aluminium should a similiar additive be used in it? 
> Your thoughts will be appreciated.



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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2004 13:19:13 -0000
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Rear Bumper Lettering

www.deloreanmotorcenter.com had them last time I looked about a 
month ago, they still should. And I believe they have it in a few 
styles, like carbon fibre in colors, stainless and a few others. 
Give them a ring or visit their site and see what is available.


Joe OBrien

2524 & 16634







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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2004 09:52:28 -0400
From: "Dom Diaz" <dom_diaz_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Re: DeLorean's dumped into the sea?

What 500 black bodies? That's news to me, I thought they had several 'mules' 
for refining building but not 500...


>From: "dmc12v6" <dmc12v6_at_dml_yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Re: DeLorean's dumped into the sea?
>Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2004 16:43:40 -0000
>
>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "alistairmccann"
><alistairmccann_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> > The body dies were owned by the DMC and in turn owned by the
>british
> > government, they were sent to Northern Ireland for the auction and
> > sold.
> >
> > For about a year or so they lay in a scrape yard in belfast then
> > were bought by the fishery compnay.
>
>
>The only Deloreans that might have been dumped at sea,besides the DMC
>dies,i suspect,might be those first 500 black bodies,think about
>it,for a moment----WHERE--- did they disappear to. As we all know
>today after stripping down 1 parts car, it is rather diffucult to get
>rid of that black body,how did the company manage to dispose of those
>500 or so black fiberglass shells,at the bottom of the sea maybe?



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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2004 14:44:19 -0000
From: "bkp944" <bk_pollard_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Low Brake Fluid Indicator: was Low fuel warning indicator

Thanks David for the advice, I'll try that before trying to run out 
of gas on the highway.

Your second comment about the brake fluid reservoir now has me 
intrigued. My brake fluid reservoir has a cap with an orange 
electrical connector, but no wiring is connected to it.

Several weeks ago I looked for a loose electrical connector to mate 
with the cap, but didn't find one. At the time, I just thought the 
PO had replaced the cap with some aftermarket one with an electrical 
connector the DeLorean didn't use.

Is the test button the black button right in the middle of the cap?

Time to get out the schematic and look for wire color codes and see 
if I can find out what is going on.

Thanks,
Brian
VIN#4494 

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> 
wrote:
> A very simple way to test the light is to remove the spare tire,
> remove the cover, and with the key on slowly lift the sender unit 
out
> of the tank until the low fuel light goes on. While you are in 
there
> ther is a test button on the brake resovoir to test the low brake
> fluid light. Neither light does not "self test" when you start the
> car. The other condition that light s the brake light is the 
emergency
> brake.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757   
> 
> 

[very long quote trimmed by moderator]



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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2004 15:50:17 -0000
From: "Jeff Phillips" <jmanis2_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Door and window alignment

Lots of questions from me today.

I finally realigned the pass window so it no longer jumps off of the 
track and I'm estatic about how it operates.  Except it now properly 
hits the window stop at the bottom of its travel causing the top 1/4" 
or so to stay above the window opening.  Is this the proper stop 
location and can I adjust it.  If you want to hang your arms out the 
window this would be uncomfortable.

Also, the pass door doesn't seem to be aligned properly.  The side 
stripe is at least a 1/4" low in the front even after I adjusted the 
strikers.  The door seems to be torqued but I doubt it is as the 
structural strength of those puppuies is pretty high.  My door seals 
are also pretty torn up as when the door closes the door frame will 
rub the seals pretty hard in the back T panel section.  Is there a 
good procedure to check and align the doors for proper closing?  
Anyone have a good cross-refernce for door seals?

Jeff
#10544




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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2004 15:02:40 -0000
From: "Jeff Phillips" <jmanis2_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: CO2 screw supply

I took a trip to a local junk yard yesterday and pulled open a few 
Bosch air/fuel mix units.  I discovered that regardless of the 
specific Jetronic unit the internal CO2 adjustment screws were 
identical.  I pulled two from a Mercedes 560SeL and a 1986 VW 
Cabriolet that were identical, given that they were very different in 
size externally perhaps the internals are fairly interchangeable.  
Also I was able to screw the adjustment screw in all of the way and 
remove it without removing the rocker arm.  Hope that helps others, 
also I now have an extra that is in fairly good shape if anyone needs 
it please contact offline. 

Jeff
#10544




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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2004 16:01:23 -0000
From: "Mike" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>
Subject: Charging Problem.......Solved! :)........

Hi All

Just wanted to post a big thank you to all who have helped me out 
with my charging problem.

....After installing a brand new alternator sourced within the UK, i 
found that my battery light was still illuminating and subsequently 
not charging my system. With your help i assessed that the battery 
and wiring etc was all ok and that by testing the new alterntor's 
output, that this was the cause of my problems.....lesson learned 
just because its new it doesnt mean it works! :).... 

I especially wish to highly praise one of your suppliers ....John 
Hervey,'Special T' for his help, in not only choosing an alternator 
suitable for my needs but for shipping this so quickly to me in the 
UK...sent this out the same day friday and i got this on the monday 
at 8.30am!, and at such a very reasonable cost too. (infact cheaper 
including the delivery, than for the supply only of a 'origional' 
spec alternator )

..The 140 he supplies is simply brilliant, quiet, compact and dead 
simple to install and has all shiny new bolts, 'proper' electrical 
connections and even a new dash bulb!...with easy and plain 
instructions.... what more do i want?.... Took the car out on a 30 
mile run last night and threw everything at it lights, ac, stereo and 
even hazards at the same time :)....not even a blip in the engines 
performance at speed or idle... it may be me but i swear it runs 
smoother than it ever has.

Many thanks again for all the advice and help...its the best auto 
newsgroup i know of.


Mike


#2001
doc403
Yorkshire,UK

(in no way affiliated to Special T Auto.)









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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2004 15:33:58 -0000
From: "Jeff Phillips" <jmanis2_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Fuel Economy

Having recently been able to drive the DeLorean for extended periods 
of time I've just noticed that I've horrendous fuel efficiency around 
10 MPG.  My exhaust is extremely rich, so much so the fuel vapors 
will cause your eyes to tear up, hence my ongoing investigation of 
the CO2 adj.  Meanwhile I pulled the plugs to inspect them and to to 
a compression check and expected all 6 to be saturated in fuel.  Much 
to my surprise 4 were clean and tan in color but the two closest to 
the firewall on the drivers side were wet with fuel.  I'm now 
suspecting that the problem may be the injectors and took some of 
Hervey's advise and poured in a bottle of Berryman 12 fuel cleaner 
into the tank.  Only a half tank later I've seen remarkable improment 
in my milage (on track for 20MPG) but the fuel smell hasn't improved 
much.  I'll be pulling the injectors and inspecting the spray this 
week as I suspect those two may not be closing fully and causeing 
fuel to leak into the cylinders.

Am I on the right track with my assumptions?  Also, since my CO screw 
is stripped I'm going to replace it with my newly pulled one.  Where 
should I set the screw initially so I can adjust it to the proper 
position?

Jeff
#10544




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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2004 17:09:22 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Cooling System Care

Engines can vary greatly between manufacturer, or even casting, and 
assembly batches. Some motors like GM's can be sensetive to non-
Dexcool compatable coolants. However, the DeLorean will run just fine 
with a good premium coolant, and no additives.

Now, a word about tap water. Some people find that tap water works ok 
in their cars. And in some cases, that is true. It just depends upon 
the mineral content in your water supply. Now, the big question 
is, "How hard is the water in my area?" The easiest way to fine out, 
is to head to your local hardware store. Go down the plumbing isle, 
and ask them about the life span of water heaters in your area. If 
there is a problem with heavy minerals in your area, home water 
heaters are the first to go.

In any case, tap water is the absolute best way to go. If you have 
relativly soft water in your area, then using the garden hose to 
flush out the system is just fine. Although,I myself would then take 
the extra step of draining the block, and trying to blow out the 
lines.

In any case, do NOT use tap water to fill the system! Distilled water 
is damn cheap, at about 60 or so a gallon. So if you think $4 was 
cheap insurance for your one engine, think again about this price as 
well. Using tap water will affect your radiator, engine block, water 
pump, heater core, and all seals and pipes by allowing mineral scale, 
accellerating corrosion, and scum to build up throught the system.

Aside from the normal warnings of clean up any spilled coolant, and 
dispose of in a sanitary sewer, etc... I'll give you some advice that 
I had to discover on my own, the hard way. Don't use the Orange 
Prestone Extended life coolant in any of your vehicles, if you can 
help it. Why? It's colored orange. And when trying to examine your 
cooling system for rust, that orange color masks evidence of 
corrosion all too well (maybe that's why car mfgs love this stuff 
now). Instead, either use the traditional green, or Prestone now 
makes a coolant that is yellow colored, and is compatable with both 
green, and orange Dexcool coolants, and has the same 5 year/150K mile 
protection. Most importantly, no matter what the procedure or system, 
follow your maintenance schedule on ALL cars that you own.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Rod Dillman <rhdillman_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> When flushing a cooling system should the new coolant be mixed with 
tap water or distilled water or does it really matter? Several years 
ago I had a head gasket failure on an aluminium block Cadillac engine 
and the service manager told me  that if I had added GM Cooling 
System Seal Tabs(Part No. 3634621-a $4 part) with an engine flush 
every 3 or 4 years it would likely have eliminated a $1500 head 
gasket repair. Since the DeLorean engine block is aluminium should a 
similiar additive be used in it?  Your thoughts will be appreciated.




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 21
Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2004 17:29:41 -0000
From: "Mike Walsh" <yahoo_at_dml_oneskydojo.com>
Subject: car covers

With "car storage" season coming up I was wondering if anyone had any 
car cover recommendations. I want a good one and don't mind paying a 
little extra for it. The Delorean might be stored in a heated room or 
a unheated garage. It won't be outside so I am not too concerned with 
rain/snow.

- Mike
#17084




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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2004 13:31:57 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Cooling System Care

Using "tap" water is usually fine. Where it may not be so good is if
you have a well and the water is particularly hard. The minerals will
come out of solution inside your cooling system coating the inside and
reducing the ability of the system to transfer heat. Distilled water
is usually overkill unless you know your area has hard water. In that
case most houses will have a water softener and if you don't go
overboard with the softener that water is probably OK. Always try to
stay with a premium branded anti-freeze, it usually won't be green
dye. You don't have to change it every 2 years. It can be tested to
see if it is becoming acidic.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Andrew Prentis <aprentis_at_dml_r...> wrote:
> I changed my car's coolant last weekend and used
> distilled water with the anti freeze.Definately better
> to use that than tap water since tap water has alot of
> additives and impurities in it which can eat away at
> the engine over time.
> I've never used an additive in my car and don't think
> it is necessary as long as you stick with a good name
> brand coolant.In Australia a couple of years ago they
> tested some cheap brands of coolant and found they
> were just made of water with green dye in it!
> I also think coolant should be changed more frequently
> than 3-4 years.I change mine every 2 years.
> More crucial though is to get the 50/50 mix of anti
> freeze/anti corrosion and water correct.
> 
> Andrew
> VIN 2883
> Sydney,Aus.
> 
> --- Rod Dillman <rhdillman_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> > When flushing a cooling system should the new
> > coolant be mixed with tap water or distilled water
> > or does it really matter? Several years ago I had a
> > head gasket failure on an aluminium block Cadillac
> > engine and the service manager told me  that if I
> > had added GM Cooling System Seal Tabs(Part No.
> > 3634621-a $4 part) with an engine flush every 3 or 4
> > years it would likely have eliminated a $1500 head
> > gasket repair. Since the DeLorean engine block is
> > aluminium should a similiar additive be used in it? 
> > Your thoughts will be appreciated.




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 23
Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2004 18:17:14 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Rear Bumper Lettering

To kind of second/add to this. Does anyone know where I can get a set 
of those raised, carbon fibre bumper letters? Someone was selling 
them on eBay, and I'm still kicking myself for not getting a set of 
the black ones for my car.

Thanks!

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Mike" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_b...> wrote:
> Hi All
> 
> Does anyone know where i can get hold of some rear bumper 
lettering?.
> not the ones that fit in the recess ie: individual letters, but the 
> one which is like a plaque with the lettering cut out?
> 
> Thanks All
> 
> 
> Mike
> 
> 
> 
> #2001
> Yorkshire, UK




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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2004 17:46:58 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: DeLorean "Computers"/Jump Starting (Lauren)

As shipped from the factory, DeLoreans had three control modules
(ignition, CIS, and Lambda). They are not integrated, and except for
ignition are not necessary for the engine to run. I've tuned several F
series PRV's manually, with excellent results. 

IMHO every owner should know how to bypass CIS and Lambda, for trouble
shooting and diagnosis if nothing else (are not permanent mods).

Similarly, for on the road emergencies, every owner should know how to
jump other devices to limp home (RPM relay, "otterstat" or cooling fan
relay(s), low headlight relay, etc).

Renault transmission *CAN* be slam/RPM shifted very nicely (~2200 RPM)
if the hydraulics go out. 

Re: jump starting:

Don't rely on battery wire insulation colors when jumping a car. All
lengths and gauges come in black, red, or even clear. Polarity is cast
into the battery case itself, and you can usually tell from where the
wires go which is which.

Be careful generating sparks. Battery gasses are explosive. If you see
a lot of corrosion on the terminals, the battery is leaking gas. Don't
forget that the battery on the jumping car can explode too.

I push started a Honda Civic by myself once -- very difficult. Can't
imagine what it would be like to duck under a moving gull wing door.
Plus the DeLo weighs twice as much to start moving. If in doubt, park
on a hill (clutch can be popped in reverse too).

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Lauren" <LPLand_at_dml_e...> wrote:
 
> Thanks, Dave for bringing me into the present.  I once swore I'd 
> never own a car new enough to be computerized and now I have one 
> more reason why.  Except for my daily driver, the D is the newest 
> car I've ever owned.
> 
> Actually I drive a 96 Hummer (OK - I broke down and bought a 
> computerized vehicle and I hate the fact that I can't just push start 
> it myself)  with dual Optima yellow tops and am always willing to 
> come to everyone's rescue.   I'll rethink that!  Although I have to
say  
> confirming "red to positive" is my standard for jumping cars, much 
> like one would  say "clear" for a  defribulator or "four" for golfers. 
> 





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Message: 25
Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2004 13:09:51 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: BLINKERS BLINKERS(half way solved)

O.k today I fixed the rear driver blinker it was not as easy as cleaning the plug contacts and boards everything was tight and clean.  I do have the radio shack screws installed in the rivets on the boards.  However, I took a light tester to the green/red wire (power for the left rear blinker) and the board as well and found there is no power.  So I had to trace the wire to a loose connections back behind the ignition coil on the black plug in connector.  Which apparently was not making a good connection even though it was in and tight.  I'll test it out once it stops pouring out there.
 
As for the front driver blinker same problem will not blink with the headlights ON, does not light up.  Checked the grounding 10mm bolt and replaced it, no change. 
Any suggestions for that one, odd?
Soma576_at_dml_aol.com wrote:
In a message dated 8/22/04 4:49:37 PM Central Daylight Time, 
john_podlewski_at_dml_yahoo.com writes:


> Two Blinker Issues: 
> #1 My rear driver side blinker does not work 
> at all BULBS AND FUSES GOOD, the passenger rear and front side is fine?
> 

John,
try removing the tail light lens and remove the wiring harness from the 
circuit board. get some electrical cleaner and douse the circuit board where the 
clip goes on. rub it in with a towel to get any dirt off the contacts. on the 
plug, try getting a little wire brush in there so you can soak it in cleaner 
and scrub the contact pins. once they are clean, use a little allen wrench 
and bend the pins toward the middle of the connector so they will be as tight as 
possible on the board when you reinstall. i bet the one that goes to the 
blinker is either bent outwards or dirty. lots of dust can get back there so i 
wouldn't be surprised. if that still doesn't work, get a multimeter or test 
light and check for +12V off/on/off/on on that pin for the blinker (either 
follow the solder trail from the bulb or check the wire color with your shop 
manual). what do you find? also check the solder trail on the board for cracks or 
damage. 

if you still have no power back there, contract me off-list and i will assist 
in helping you with a continuity check along the rest of the electrical 
system for the light bulb.


> #2 Also the driver front blinker works fine 
> but only WITHOUT the headlights. When the headlights are on it does not 
> light up at all? VERY ODD and the dash gauge for the left blinker is steady, 
> i.e does not blink but is lit.

this one is odd. I would begin by removing the lens for the blinker and 
checking for damaged wiring or insulation. you have checked all of your frame 
grounding points and they are all clean and tight, right? I think the light 
ground is connected to the front subframe/frame extension. you can view it thru 
the brake master cycliner access cover. the screw is 10mm and there are maybe 
three other wires at the location.

Andy



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________________________________________________________________________


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