From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2194
Date: Wednesday, August 25, 2004 2:33 PM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: How can I protect my connector plugs?
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

2. Re: How can I protect my connector plugs?
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

3. RE: How can I protect my connector plugs?
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

4. Re: Door Seals (was Door and window alignment)
From: John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_yahoo.com>

5. Re: BLINKERS BLINKERS(solved solved)
From: John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_yahoo.com>

6. Correction: Initial Setting Of CO Screw
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

7. Coolant System Flushing..........?
From: "Mike" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>

8. Engine shuts off _at_dml_ idle(was blinkers blinkers fixed)
From: John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_yahoo.com>

9. Re: Rear Bumper Lettering
From: "Mike" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>

10. fuel gauge
From: Sean Mulligan <sean_mulligan_at_dml_yahoo.com>

11. Re: How can I protect my connector plugs?
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

12. Re: car covers
From: "James Espey" <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>

13. Re: Engine temp gauge not working
From: "Mike Walsh" <yahoo_at_dml_oneskydojo.com>

14. Re: Low Brake Fluid Indicator: was Low fuel warning indicator
From: "bkp944" <bk_pollard_at_dml_hotmail.com>

15. Re: Coolant System Flushing..........?
From: andydandy777_at_dml_aol.com

16. Source for coolant resovoir
From: "Roland Smith" <roland_at_dml_dnai.com>

17. Re: How can I protect my connector plugs?
From: "Payne" <bpayne_at_dml_macnet.com>

18. Re: CoverCraft Car Cover Suppliers
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

19. Cooling System/ Temp Guage
From: "ltshaneclarke" <ltshaneclarke_at_dml_yahoo.com>

20. Re: fuel gauge
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

21. Fuel Guage Inoperative
From: "ltshaneclarke" <ltshaneclarke_at_dml_yahoo.com>

22. Re: fuel gauge
From: "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_cox.net>

23. Re: Low Brake Fluid Indicator: was Low fuel warning indicator
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

24. RE: Re: Engine temp gauge not working
From: "Dom Diaz" <dom_diaz_at_dml_hotmail.com>

25. Re: Engine shuts off _at_dml_ idle(was blinkers blinkers fixed)
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>





Message: 1
Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2004 03:39:43 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: How can I protect my connector plugs?

Steve - I believe that the best option is dielectric grease.  That's 
what I use on Winged1, and also on all my other cars.  I don't know 
about a magic spray-on treatment to last twenty years, but I haven't 
had any further electrical contact corrosion issues in several years 
since starting to use this material.  The best treatment seems to be 
to thoroughly clean all connections with emery cloth and electrical 
contact cleaner, and then apply a light smear of the dielectric 
grease.  Other folks on the List might have their own preferences, 
so you can consider this to be my own personal favorite.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, S E Ableman <s.ableman_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> List,
> 
>I cleaned up all of my plugs, both male & female. Does anyone sell 
a paste like substance that will help keep my connections from 
needing a cleaning once every 20 or so years? I hoping there is 
something like the Blue Stuff that you used to spray on TV tuners 
years ago.  Is the spray used for batteries to prevent corrosion a 
possibility?
> 
> Steve, 1089




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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2004 02:25:15 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: How can I protect my connector plugs?

I use "bulb grease" that I picked up at NAPA.

Harold McElraft - 3354

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, S E Ableman <s.ableman_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> List,
> 
>     I cleaned up all of my plugs, both male & female. Does anyone 
sell a 
> paste like substance that will help keep my connections from 
needing a 
> cleaning once every 20 or so years? I hoping there is something 
like the 
> Blue Stuff that you used to spray on TV tuners years ago.    Is 
the 
> spray used for batteries to prevent corrosion a possibility?
> 
> Steve, 1089




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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2004 23:14:30 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: How can I protect my connector plugs?

Steve, I grew up in electronics and haven't heard the word Blue Stuff in
years. Yes, if you can find it you can use it. I wouldn't use the battery
preventative to use on connections.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com





[duplicate quote removed by moderator]



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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2004 22:57:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Door Seals (was Door and window alignment)

Did someone say Door seals, if your looking for brand new seals.  An inexpensive alternative to new seals try Heninger and Associates _at_dml_aol.com(e-mail only).  They were at the show in Tenn. and I do understand they will have a web site coming out soon.  
For $140 you can purchase both sets of outer door seals-very high quality, $70 bucks a pair, very reasonable.
Or $120 for the set of inners-that does both doors. 
Just installed them last week no complaints.
Looks great and works even better!
One difference than stock, the outers are flatter than the originals which a PLUS, no ridges for those of you that have problems closing the doors all the way,  i.e does not get caught up on the body.  
Anyone interested e-mail off list for their number?  By the way, not affiliated in any way. 

Jeff Phillips <jmanis2_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
Lots of questions from me today.

I finally realigned the pass window so it no longer jumps off of the 
track and I'm estatic about how it operates. Except it now properly 
hits the window stop at the bottom of its travel causing the top 1/4" 
or so to stay above the window opening. Is this the proper stop 
location and can I adjust it. If you want to hang your arms out the 
window this would be uncomfortable.

Also, the pass door doesn't seem to be aligned properly. The side 
stripe is at least a 1/4" low in the front even after I adjusted the 
strikers. The door seems to be torqued but I doubt it is as the 
structural strength of those puppuies is pretty high. My door seals 
are also pretty torn up as when the door closes the door frame will 
rub the seals pretty hard in the back T panel section. Is there a 
good procedure to check and align the doors for proper closing? 
Anyone have a good cross-refernce for door seals?

Jeff
#10544



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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2004 23:25:09 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: BLINKERS BLINKERS(solved solved)

Well problem solved both blinkers front and rear on driver side side now work. 
The issues turned out to be linked to the connection behind the ignition coil on the black plastic plug green/red wire it controls not just the rear blinker, like I thought but apparently the front driver also.  It was not loose just not making a good connection, I guess.  Lights on-lights off works like new.
Thanks, to all for the quick help! 

John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
Two Blinker Issues: 
#1 My rear driver side blinker does not work at all BULBS AND FUSES GOOD, the passenger rear and front side is fine?

#2 Also the driver front blinker works fine but only WITHOUT the headlights. When the headlights are on it does not light up at all? VERY ODD and the dash gauge for the left blinker is steady, i.e does not blink but is lit.

I can't help think the two are related? If my front driver side did not work at all either this problem would be pretty easy to diagnosis, but that is not the case. 

Any suggestions or anyone ever had this problem before, Thanks? 






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2004 06:56:27 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Correction: Initial Setting Of CO Screw

Forgot to mention: plug the empty injector boot with a 3/8" or 10mm
bolt. Otherwise you'll have a major vacuum leak that will affect air
sensor plate movement.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> Unplug the coil, jump the RPM relay (remember that the pump spins
> continuously like that, whether the car is energized or not -- don't
> leave it jumped), pull an injector and place it in a bottle, and set
> your CO screw lean. Then turn the engine with the starter motor
> (lowering the air sensor plate naturally) and enrich the CO screw
> until the pulled injector starts to spray. This should be close enough
> to start the engine and make your final adjustments.
> 
> Bill Robertson
> #5939
> 
> >--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Jeff Phillips" <jmanis2_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> > Having recently been able to drive the DeLorean for extended periods 
> > of time I've just noticed that I've horrendous fuel efficiency around 
> > 10 MPG.  My exhaust is extremely rich, so much so the fuel vapors 
> > will cause your eyes to tear up, hence my ongoing investigation of 
> > the CO2 adj.  Meanwhile I pulled the plugs to inspect them and to to 
> > a compression check and expected all 6 to be saturated in fuel.  Much 
> > to my surprise 4 were clean and tan in color but the two closest to 
> > the firewall on the drivers side were wet with fuel.  I'm now 
> > suspecting that the problem may be the injectors and took some of 
> > Hervey's advise and poured in a bottle of Berryman 12 fuel cleaner 
> > into the tank.  Only a half tank later I've seen remarkable improment 
> > in my milage (on track for 20MPG) but the fuel smell hasn't improved 
> > much.  I'll be pulling the injectors and inspecting the spray this 
> > week as I suspect those two may not be closing fully and causeing 
> > fuel to leak into the cylinders.
> > 
> > Am I on the right track with my assumptions?  Also, since my CO screw 
> > is stripped I'm going to replace it with my newly pulled one.  Where 
> > should I set the screw initially so I can adjust it to the proper 
> > position?
> > 
> > Jeff
> > #10544




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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2004 07:50:40 -0000
From: "Mike" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>
Subject: Coolant System Flushing..........?

Hi All

Whats the best procedure for flushing out a d's cooling 
system?...dont really have any info on how to do this correctly!

Thanks Again All


Mike

#2001




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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2004 00:00:32 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Engine shuts off _at_dml_ idle(was blinkers blinkers fixed)

In the engine bay, while I was back there working on`the blinkers behind the ignition coil.   I noticed under all the different color plugs, and to the right of the coil, there is a BLACK WIRE which looks like a ground wire.
Well when the wire is moved the slightest the engine dies _at_dml_ idle.  
It comes out of the firewall along the right side of the engine and looks like it goes somewhere under the coolant bottle.  Seems to be an easy diagnosis but before I start replacing it, what it go to???  Part # etc... etc...
Any suggestions, or anyone ever seen this problem before?  
One electrical problem followed by another or maybe another!





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2004 08:46:15 -0000
From: "Mike" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Rear Bumper Lettering

....cant seem to see any listed on their web site??....any other help 
appreciated! :)



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_c...> 
wrote:
> To kind of second/add to this. Does anyone know where I can get a 
set 
> of those raised, carbon fibre bumper letters? Someone was selling 
> them on eBay, and I'm still kicking myself for not getting a set of 
> the black ones for my car.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> -Robert
> vin 6585 "X"
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Mike" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_b...> wrote:
> > Hi All
> > 
> > Does anyone know where i can get hold of some rear bumper 
> lettering?.
> > not the ones that fit in the recess ie: individual letters, but 
the 
> > one which is like a plaque with the lettering cut out?
> > 
> > Thanks All
> > 
> > 
> > Mike
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > #2001
> > Yorkshire, UK




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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2004 23:25:50 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sean Mulligan <sean_mulligan_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: fuel gauge

hey everyone,

my fuel gauge hasn't worked in a long time...was
wondering if it's the gauge itself or something
different?  what are the common causes of this (if
any)?  thanks.

-sean mulligan
 vin #10054



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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2004 13:25:38 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: How can I protect my connector plugs?

You can buy a foaming contact cleaner in a can at Radio Shack. Just 
spray and watch the contacts shine in a few seconds.

To protect them -after- that, I use CRC brand, di-electric grease. It 
comes in a pressurized can with a long, narrow tip to get into tight 
spots. Do not over-apply. A thin coating is best. You can find it at 
Advance Auto and the like.

Rich A.
#5335

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, S E Ableman <s.ableman_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> List,
> 
>     I cleaned up all of my plugs, both male & female. Does anyone 
sell a 
> paste like substance that will help keep my connections from 
needing a 
> cleaning once every 20 or so years? I hoping there is something 
like the 
> Blue Stuff that you used to spray on TV tuners years ago.    Is the 
> spray used for batteries to prevent corrosion a possibility?
> 
> Steve, 1089




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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2004 08:28:24 -0500
From: "James Espey" <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: Re: car covers

No offense, Bill, but how is buying a car cover from a company that Dave at
one time was a distributor for keeping it "in the family"? Maybe I mis-read
your message...

All the big three vendors carry fitted car covers in various materials
(indoor, outdoor, cotton, waterproof, etc) - and they can all supply you
with a Carcoon as well. Only when someone buys from the within the industry
is it really keeping the money where it will most benefit the future of the
marque.

James Espey
http://www.delorean.com

--------------------------------------

Bill wrote:

Check out pics of CoverCraft's custom fit cover in #5939's photo
album. At one time Dave Stragand (Project Vixen) was a CoverCraft
distributor, if you wish to keep money "in the family". Otherwise JC
Whitney sells them.

Notice how much better the DeLo cover fits than the supposed custom
Lincoln covers next to it.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Mike Walsh" <yahoo_at_dml_o...> wrote:
> With "car storage" season coming up I was wondering if anyone had any
> car cover recommendations. I want a good one and don't mind paying a
> little extra for it. The Delorean might be stored in a heated room or
> a unheated garage. It won't be outside so I am not too concerned with
> rain/snow.
>
> - Mike
> #17084
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.740 / Virus Database: 494 - Release Date: 8/16/2004




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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2004 13:05:11 -0000
From: "Mike Walsh" <yahoo_at_dml_oneskydojo.com>
Subject: Re: Engine temp gauge not working

Have a look at the temp sender on the engine. When I first got my 
Delorean the gauge was not working either. I found the wire was off. 
I ended up replaceing it because the readings were all over the place 
(after I hooked it back up)

It is located on the passenger side beside the oil filter.

- Mike
#17084




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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2004 12:20:59 -0000
From: "bkp944" <bk_pollard_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Low Brake Fluid Indicator: was Low fuel warning indicator

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> 
wrote:
> ... If the P.O. did this (or his mechanic) you
> should be suspicous of ALL the work done on the car. 
> Whoever did this
> was reckless and had no regard for the safety of the driver of that
> car. By disconnecting that plug you would have no warning if there 
> was a serious malfunction in the brake system. ...

I agree completely. That is one of the reasons I am going through 
this car so thoroughly to correct things of this nature.

I have receipts where the P.O. bought new calipers and brake pads in 
March '03. When I first got the car, I looked over the brake system 
and everything does look to be in order. The brake lines appear to 
be factory, so I had planned on replacing those this winter with SS 
braided overwrapped lines and to flush the brake and clutch system.

When I got home last night I searched for the "missing" connector. 
Sure enough, I found it very nicely wire-tied to the harness above 
the crumple tube. Judging by the amount of crud inside the 
connector, it had been tied up there for a very long time.

I cleaned out the connector, then jumpered across it to see what 
happened - my brake warning indicator came on. 

Next I cleaned the contacts on the brake fluid reservoir's 
connector, plugged in the "missing" connector, and retested. 
Everything works as it should! BTW, the brake fluid looked very good 
and I don't think I need to change my plans about flushing the 
system before I replace the brake lines.

Next came the low fuel warning light tests...
I slowly raised the fuel sender until it cleared the gasoline. No 
low fuel warning light.

Next I unplugged the sender's electrical connector, jumpered across 
the correct terminals, and the low fuel light came on.

A bit stumped, I decided to take out the fuel sender and see if 
there was anything I could do to it. When it cleared the tank, I 
noticed that gas was still dripping slowly from the bottom. I held 
it there until all the gas stopped dripping (a couple minutes).

At that point, I reconnected the plugs and I had a low fuel warning 
light! Previously, I just had not allowed enough time for the sender 
to drain. 

I should be good to go now on both the brake warning and low fuel 
warning lights. Thanks again for your advice.

-Brian
VIN# 4494




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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2004 10:04:12 EDT
From: andydandy777_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Coolant System Flushing..........?

 
In a message dated 8/25/2004 8:46:47 AM Central Daylight Time,  
mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com writes:

Hi  All

Whats the best procedure for flushing out a d's cooling  
system?...dont really have any info on how to do this  correctly!

Thanks Again  All


Mike

#2001


----------------------

Go the DMCNEWS home page and you will see tech information library click on  
this and scroll down to the engine section there you will fine cooling system  
maintenance click on this and you will be up too speed. One more note while I 
 was doing this I would order the self bleeder kit for Toby (Delorean Parts  
Northwest) this is a cheap kit and is real easy to install and will come in  
handy later.
03513 Andy B



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Message: 16
Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2004 07:11:26 -0700
From: "Roland Smith" <roland_at_dml_dnai.com>
Subject: Source for coolant resovoir

Who has coolant reservoirs for sale.  DMC only sells the metal ones and
their supplier has not filled their current orders.

Roland Smith
Oakland, California
VIN 6667






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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2004 22:33:51 -0700
From: "Payne" <bpayne_at_dml_macnet.com>
Subject: Re: How can I protect my connector plugs?

I use dielectric grease for my electrical connections. It's available at any
parts store. Mine came from a Honda dealer simply because I used to work
there.

Payne



> List,
>
>     I cleaned up all of my plugs, both male & female. Does anyone sell a
> paste like substance that will help keep my connections from needing a
> cleaning once every 20 or so years? I hoping there is something like the
> Blue Stuff that you used to spray on TV tuners years ago.    Is the
> spray used for batteries to prevent corrosion a possibility?
>
> Steve, 1089
>
>



---
[This E-mail Scanned for viruses by Onlinemac.com]




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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2004 14:23:52 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: CoverCraft Car Cover Suppliers

I was talking about Dave vesus JC Whitney.

Is DMCH a CoverCraft distributor now? Last I checked you didn't sell
that particular manufacture.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "James Espey" <james_at_dml_u...> wrote:
> No offense, Bill, but how is buying a car cover from a company that
Dave at
> one time was a distributor for keeping it "in the family"? Maybe I
mis-read
> your message...
> 
> All the big three vendors carry fitted car covers in various materials
> (indoor, outdoor, cotton, waterproof, etc) - and they can all supply you
> with a Carcoon as well. Only when someone buys from the within the
industry
> is it really keeping the money where it will most benefit the future
of the
> marque.
> 
> James Espey
> http://www.delorean.com
> 





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Message: 19
Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2004 14:34:21 -0000
From: "ltshaneclarke" <ltshaneclarke_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Cooling System/ Temp Guage

I had one question for everyone and then some comments.  
On the back of my water pump right below the thermostat there is a 
large bolt and a washer that has a slight leak.  I've tried torquing 
it and it still has a slight leak.  I called DMC and they told me to 
take it off and purchase a new washer at any hardware store.  Before 
I begin my project I invite all comments on size, type of metal and 
any special torquing techniques for that particular washer bolt 
configuration.
With regards to the temp guage not working on someone's D.  I had the 
same problem and ended up oveheating on the road due to a moron 
mechanic who told me he blead the cooling system and didn't.(I now 
always do it myself!)  I replaced the sender located on the passenger 
side of the engine block towards the firewall.  I then replaced the 
guage itself and it finally started working.  Another issue you might 
have is the wiring itself is bad. The replacement of the guage is not 
hard at all, and the only thing to remember when replacing the sender 
is drain the coolant system first so you don't have a huge mess.
As to the coolant, tap/distilled water debate.  I always use Prestone 
premix, which is prestone's "green" coolant premixed with distilled 
water, it's excellent.  I also throw in some red line water wetter, 
which has kept my car from getting even remotely hot in the Florida 
sun.  The biggest thing to remember with these cooling systems is to 
remember to get a good bleed, or you'll have a pretty bad day.
Love the forum!
Shane Clarke
2LT,USAF    




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Message: 20
Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2004 14:52:22 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: fuel gauge

The most common problem with the fuel gauge system is the OEM sender
unit. Very high failure rate and rather inaccurate. All the venders
sell an improved sender unit. You can consider a Tankzilla, a little
pricey, but IMHO worth it.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Sean Mulligan <sean_mulligan_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> hey everyone,
> 
> my fuel gauge hasn't worked in a long time...was
> wondering if it's the gauge itself or something
> different?  what are the common causes of this (if
> any)?  thanks.
> 
> -sean mulligan
>  vin #10054




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Message: 21
Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2004 14:36:22 -0000
From: "ltshaneclarke" <ltshaneclarke_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Fuel Guage Inoperative

I just wanted to comment on the fuel guage not working.  I had the 
same problem when I purchased my #1991, and I simply got the new 
sender from DMC, put it in the D in about 20 minutes and now I have a 
fuel guage.  Easy fix for those who don't mind removing a few bolts.
Shane Clarke
2LT,USAF




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Message: 22
Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2004 14:51:14 -0000
From: "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: fuel gauge

What exactly is it doing?  If it's pointing straight up, it's more 
than likely your fuel sender.  Easy fix.

Johnny
5518


> hey everyone,
> 
> my fuel gauge hasn't worked in a long time...was
> wondering if it's the gauge itself or something
> different?  what are the common causes of this (if
> any)?  thanks.
> 
> -sean mulligan
>  vin #10054




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Message: 23
Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2004 15:09:36 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Low Brake Fluid Indicator: was Low fuel warning indicator

The fuel sender has a well in it with little holes so it reacts slowly
to fuel sloshing around. I said to remove it slowly so the fuel can
run out the little hole in the bottom. The S/S braided brake lines are
overkill but if it makes you happy go for it. You may notice a stiffer
brake pedal with them as the hoses will not bulge under pressure like
the rubber origionals. If you don't know how old the brake fluid is I
would flush it even if it is clean (you kind of have to if you are
replacing the hoses anyway). In your case you can figure the fluid was
flushed in /03 when the calipers were replaced. Make sure the brake
hoses are not kinked ie, the ridges on the surface of the brake hoses
run nice and smoothly to the calipers indicating the hoses are not
twisted. The one hose I DO recomend changing is the clutch line. The
S/S one is a big improvement over the plastic line. Jumper the plug
going to the Lambda counter and see if the Lambda light comes on. You
may want to check all your warning lights. 
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "bkp944" <bk_pollard_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> 
> wrote:
> > ... If the P.O. did this (or his mechanic) you
> > should be suspicous of ALL the work done on the car. 
> > Whoever did this
> > was reckless and had no regard for the safety of the driver of that
> > car. By disconnecting that plug you would have no warning if there 
> > was a serious malfunction in the brake system. ...
> 
> I agree completely. That is one of the reasons I am going through 





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Message: 24
Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2004 11:01:55 -0400
From: "Dom Diaz" <dom_diaz_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Engine temp gauge not working

The temp sender is near the oil sender?


>From: "Mike Walsh" <yahoo_at_dml_oneskydojo.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Re: Engine temp gauge not working
>Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2004 13:05:11 -0000
>
>Have a look at the temp sender on the engine. When I first got my
>Delorean the gauge was not working either. I found the wire was off.
>I ended up replaceing it because the readings were all over the place
>(after I hooked it back up)
>
>It is located on the passenger side beside the oil filter.
>
>- Mike
>#17084



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Message: 25
Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2004 15:17:54 -0000
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Re: Engine shuts off _at_dml_ idle(was blinkers blinkers fixed)

This is one of the main grounds of the car.  You are right, it 
connects to the frame underneath the coolant bottle.  I found this 
connection to be very loose and corroded on my car where it bolts 
through the firewall.  My solution was to rip out that bolt, pull 
the black connector out through the hole into the engine bay (the 
part that was originally inside of the car), and then use a stronger 
connector to join the two ground wires.  The type I chose looks like 
a hollow brass cylinder with 2 screws in it.  This makes the bare 
wires a little less exposed.  

Additionally, while you're in there, you'll notice there's 3 brown 
wires that connect to the main HOT for the car, bolted to the 
pontoon on your right.  These were also very loose and corroded on 
my car.  My fix here was to take those 3 brown wires, strip off the 
ends, and place all 3 of them in a single 4 gauge ring connector 
(they'll fit!) sealed with heatshrink tubing. 

Sometimes I'd really like to get ahold of the person who wired my 
car.  There's many places on the car where a whole bunch of wires go 
to the same exact place.  Rather than wire them all together and use 
a single connector, they left them all separate, with 3 to 5 
separate connectors.  It's my opinion that you should try to 
minimize the number of connections which are joined by only 
mechanical means (i.e., quick disconnect-type terminals).  Use 
solder wherever possible.  Simplicity is key!

Matt
#1604
--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:
> In the engine bay, while I was back there working on`the blinkers 
behind the ignition coil.   I noticed under all the different color 
plugs, and to the right of the coil, there is a BLACK WIRE which 
looks like a ground wire.
> Well when the wire is moved the slightest the engine dies _at_dml_ idle.  
> It comes out of the firewall along the right side of the engine 
and looks like it goes somewhere under the coolant bottle.  Seems to 
be an easy diagnosis but before I start replacing it, what it go 
to???  Part # etc... etc...
> Any suggestions, or anyone ever seen this problem before?  
> One electrical problem followed by another or maybe another!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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