From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2197
Date: Thursday, August 26, 2004 10:38 PM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Re: fuel gauge
From: Sean Mulligan <sean_mulligan_at_dml_yahoo.com>

2. RE: Rear Bumper Lettering
From: "Michael C. Babb" <mcb_at_dml_babbtechnology.com>

3. Vac. Solonoid & idle
From: Louie G <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>

4. RE: Rear Bumper Lettering
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

5. Re: Rear Bumper Lettering
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

6. RE: Rear Bumper Lettering
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

7. RE: Rear Bumper Lettering
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

8. Re: Rear Bumper Lettering
From: "endotex23" <endotex23_at_dml_yahoo.com>

9. Re: Brake Clicking
From: "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_cox.net>

10. Re: Cruise Night
From: whocruiser_at_dml_aol.com

11. Re: Vac. Solonoid & idle (Louie Golden)
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

12. Re: Re: Engine temp gauge not working
From: "Jace & Jenn" <judtnet_at_dml_cableone.net>

13. Re: Arkansas Delorean
From: motarhedd_at_dml_aol.com

14. Re: Steering Rack Boots.
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

15. Need Island Turbo compressor fan
From: "bluemax86" <massimot_at_dml_rushmore.com>

16. Re: Alternator amps
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

17. Help! Evaporator removal
From: "Jeff Phillips" <jmanis2_at_dml_yahoo.com>

18. Re: Vac. Solonoid & idle (Louie Golden)
From: Louie G <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>

19. Re: Cruise Night
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

20. Re: Re: Steering Rack Boots.
From: "Rustproof" <Rustproof_at_dml_comcast.net>

21. Re: Cruise Night
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

22. Re: Rear Bumper Lettering
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

23. Re: Vac. Solonoid & idle
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

24. Re: Rear Bumper Lettering
From: "Rustproof" <Rustproof_at_dml_comcast.net>

25. Re: Door won't close
From: "llynn019" <llynn019_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2004 12:26:05 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sean Mulligan <sean_mulligan_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: fuel gauge

it's usually below the "0" position, but it will shoot
up and show fuel levels from time to time (usually
once during a drive).  i did find it pointing straight
up on several occasions as well.

-seany
10054

--- thebrave65 <johnnysher1_at_dml_cox.net> wrote:

> What exactly is it doing?  If it's pointing straight
> up, it's more 
> than likely your fuel sender.  Easy fix.
> 
> Johnny
> 5518
> 
> 
> > hey everyone,
> > 
> > my fuel gauge hasn't worked in a long time...was
> > wondering if it's the gauge itself or something
> > different?  what are the common causes of this (if
> > any)?  thanks.
> > 
> > -sean mulligan
> >  vin #10054



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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2004 11:18:29 -0400
From: "Michael C. Babb" <mcb_at_dml_babbtechnology.com>
Subject: RE: Rear Bumper Lettering

OK - we definitely need to know how you did this!!!


-----Original Message-----
From: malevy_nj [mailto:malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com]  
Subject: [DML] Rear Bumper Lettering


How about LIT letters??
http://www.geocities.com/malevy_nj/bumper/Nightime.jpg






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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2004 11:30:29 -0700 (PDT)
From: Louie G <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Vac. Solonoid & idle

I was just wondering if anyone could confirm to me that my vacuum hose routing into my vacuum solonoid is correct. I have the line with the u-shaped bend connected to the port closest to the electrical connector.

Also, my mode switch hisses when I turn it while the car is not running. That means I've got a vacuum leak there, right? The car is idling at about 1000-1100 rpms when it gets warm. When the car is cold it idles glassy smooth at 750rpms. I've replaced my microswitch, vacuum solonoid, idle speed motor, and have adjusted my throttle arm to ensure there's no play in it and I still idles high. Turning on the A/C compressor kicks the idle down to where it should be. This seems to tell me I've still got a vacuum leak somewhere. Should I try a mode switch next? Looking through my receipts folder the car's past owner replaced the mode switch multiple times. Are they just badly made parts, or could there be a reason why my car is chewing through so many?

Louie Golden
VIN 5252 Charlotte, NC



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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2004 14:57:46 -0500
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Rear Bumper Lettering

How did you do that?
-vb


>From: "malevy_nj" <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Rear Bumper Lettering
>Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2004 01:53:14 -0000
>
>
>
>How about LIT letters??
>
>http://www.geocities.com/malevy_nj/bumper/Nightime.jpg



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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2004 13:42:27 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Rear Bumper Lettering

Yup, my car..  01860

Not a whole heck of a lot to tell..  It is an idea I
had about 2 yrs ago, but never got around to
finnishing it until recently.

It is not all that bright..  The photo may be
deceptive... I dont know about it being illegal.


--- Hank <henry_at_dml_ix.netcom.com> wrote:

> That's pretty cool, Mark. Is that your car?  Can you
> tell us more?
> 
> BTW, any comments on the legality of letters that
> bright on the rear of the car?
> 
> -Hank



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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2004 13:44:57 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Rear Bumper Lettering

I been thinking about offering it for sale, but I dont
know if I can do it for a reasonable cost..  It took
me a few tries to get it that good (and it is still
not perfect)..  I could probably reproduce it to sell
for about $200.

It has only been on my car a week or so, it may be
premature to offer it for sale.

--- "Michael C. Babb" <mcb_at_dml_babbtechnology.com> wrote:

> OK - we definitely need to know how you did this!!!



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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2004 14:09:24 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Rear Bumper Lettering

You want me to give away my hard work for free??  

LOL

--- Video Bob <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com> wrote:

> How did you do that?
> -vb
> 



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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2004 21:22:41 -0000
From: "endotex23" <endotex23_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Rear Bumper Lettering


It should be obvious how he did it. Looks good at night but it 
appears to cover the original letters and probably doesn't look so 
good in the daylight. I did the same long ago but mine is backlit 
behind the original molded letters. The downside is you'll have to 
cut them out and replace with what I used. Mine comes on with the 
brakes. You can wire it anyway you like though.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> How did you do that?
> -vb





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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2004 21:41:04 -0000
From: "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Brake Clicking

Is it clicking constantly while applying the brake?  Can you tell 
where it's coming from?

Johnny
5518


> This spring I rebuilt my brakes, new pads, pistons and
> kits. Cleaned,re-installed and bled. I keep hearing a
> rather noticeable "click" everytime I put on the
> brakes. Brakes work fine but the "click" is
> irratating. Any ideal what is causing this?
> Steve T




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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2004 18:27:30 EDT
From: whocruiser_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Cruise Night

In a message dated 8/26/2004 4:40:37 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com writes:


> Message: 24        
>    Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2004 17:04:30 -0000
>    From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
> Subject: Cruise Night
> 
> Last night I went to Bear Mountain for a Cruise Night. The weather was
> perfect. It is held every night during the summer on Wednesday night
> near West Point in New York. The announcer said we broke the unoffical
> record for the # of cars. There were 1,021 cars and I was the ONLY
> Delorean! I met a woman who claimed her sister, Rose, was the personal
> seamstriss to Christina Ferrare. She used to do all her clothes and
> the drapes and such for the mansion. Said she still has the fitting
> maniken for C/F. Just a bit of trivia and you never know who you might
> meet at a show! Of course you get the ones too that said "I new
> someone that had a Delorean once"! or some tell you about the one they
> saw parked behind a house, inside the house, rotting under the tree,
> etc, etc. 
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 

That's a real "blast from the past", David...  I grew up right in that area, 
in Highland Falls, the little town right between Bear Mountain & West Point.  
My Uncle used to be the official doctor at all of the Bear Mountain sporting 
events for like 40 years running.  I haven't been back there in years (live in 
Florida now) but it'd sure be a great area for someone to take a driving tour 
- Palisades Parkway, across the Bear Mountain Bridge, great views from winding 
mountain roads, especially from West Point over Storm King Mountain to the 
Cornwall/Newburgh area.  I was going to drive the D through there on the way 
home from Ken's Cleveland show a few years back, but the car was delayed getting 
out of the shop that month from some major work, and I flew up & back instead 
:-(

          *****WhoCruiser_at_dml_aol.com is Dan Harris*****
WhoCruiser's Personal Home Page: http://members.aol.com/WhoCruiser
Read about The Sci-Fi Sea Cruise at: http://www.scificruise.com
Purr-use The Cat House at: http://members.aol.com/LookAtMyCatsPage



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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2004 22:39:38 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Vac. Solonoid & idle (Louie Golden)

Last I saw your engine you were setting idle speed manually by
cracking the throttle plates. Unless you've reactivated CIS, you're in
control of idle speed. Is set high to accomodate the A/C compressor
load. When fall comes you can dial it back full time until next summer.

Are you still running that Series 038 CPR? If so, don't try to route
its vacuum enrichment like a Series 066 (factory). Should be connected
directly to full manifold vacuum at all times, with no delay valve or
thermal switch. 

In fact: if you're going to continue to use that CPR I'd recommend
jetisoning remaining vacuum hoses in lieu of vacuum advance taken from
the ported line from under the throttle plates. You'd only have two
engine vacuum lines then:
1) directly from the manifold to the CPR
2) directly from the ported nipple to the distributor
Thermal vacuum switch would be unused under the intake (plug its
former takeoff on the driver intake rail with a 3/16" vacuum cap).

I seem to remember your CPR Tee'd from the vacuum canister purge line.
The smaller line next to it is the ported purge signal. Simply insert
a 3/16" Tee in it and run a hose to the distributor. 

Note that you may need to switch to idling from the brass manifold
screws rather than cracking the throttle plates (cracking them is what
opens that ported nipple).

Mode switch will hiss as it routes vacuum internally between different
positions. You're only in trouble if it hisses while stationary in the
same position.

Contact me off List (brobertson(at)carolina.net) if you'd like to
arrange a vacuum hose tech session.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Louie G <louie_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> I was just wondering if anyone could confirm to me that my vacuum
hose routing into my vacuum solonoid is correct. I have the line with
the u-shaped bend connected to the port closest to the electrical
connector.
> 
> Also, my mode switch hisses when I turn it while the car is not
running. That means I've got a vacuum leak there, right? The car is
idling at about 1000-1100 rpms when it gets warm. When the car is cold
it idles glassy smooth at 750rpms. I've replaced my microswitch,
vacuum solonoid, idle speed motor, and have adjusted my throttle arm
to ensure there's no play in it and I still idles high. Turning on the
A/C compressor kicks the idle down to where it should be. This seems
to tell me I've still got a vacuum leak somewhere. Should I try a mode
switch next? Looking through my receipts folder the car's past owner
replaced the mode switch multiple times. Are they just badly made
parts, or could there be a reason why my car is chewing through so many?
> 
> Louie Golden
> VIN 5252 Charlotte, NC




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Message: 12
Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2004 18:17:44 -0500
From: "Jace & Jenn" <judtnet_at_dml_cableone.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Engine temp gauge not working

What's the easiest way to get though everything to get at the sender/wire?

Jace
VIN 3488


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 2004 9:58 AM
Subject: [DML] Re: Engine temp gauge not working


> The sender unit by the oil filter is for the oil pressure gauge. The
> sender unit for the temp gauge is on the front of the right side
> cylinder head. The sender unit for the oil pressure light is on the
> left side of the motor towards the rear. To test the temp gauge, with
> the key on, MOMEMTARALY ground the wire going to the sender. Don't
> keep it grounded or you will burn out the gauge. It should peg all the
> way to hot it if the gauge is working. If it does "peg" then either
> you are not making a good connection on the sender or the sender is
> bad. The sender doesn't fail often so I figure you really don't have a
> good connection on the sender.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757





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Message: 13
Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2004 19:37:07 -0400
From: motarhedd_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Arkansas Delorean

hey there,

a quick look on the internet for D's will bring up this particular car. i emailed the owner, back when i was in the market, and all he really had to say was it had minor mechanical problems. it was going for about 9k... kinda fishy. obviously a fixer-upper.

Good Luck,
Russell
vin#1790



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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2004 00:07:21 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Steering Rack Boots.

I consider this typical of chain store performance - not all of 
course, but I have seen it so often.

First, unless you are very careful to mark and count rotations when 
you remove the tie-rod to put on the new boot an alignment will be 
needed again. Further, if you read the service manual for the rack 
you will find that servicing it properly requires removal. The whole 
thing is really not that big a deal if done by someone who has 
experience, etc. or will be careful and read the manual.

Depending on the character of the service or store manager at your 
NTB store, they may be willing to tackle and correct the job with 
their top technician. I would consider this a "fat-chance" though. 

I don't know where you live but I would suggest finding a shop that 
deals with "special" cars. They are around; you just have to find 
them. A shop I go to for alignments has a group of enthusiasts that 
tell others about him at drive-in nights at some of the local haunts 
here in north central NJ. Because of my car he now has the DeLorean 
in the alignment computer. (BTW, where did NTB find the specs?) At 
this shop I use it is also the first time someone actually took the 
time to examine some alignment issues with me. Replacing some 
control arm bushings put me back into spec. Now the handling is 
right. I also found a "Doc Brown" type transmission shop through him 
to fix my automatic which works perfectly now. I find I pay these 
folks by the hour rather than flat rate but it is worth it.

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Rustproof" <Rustproof_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> Does anyone know where I can get a set of new steering rack boots? 
I went to NTB Tire & Battery for a front end alignment a couple of 
weeks ago. Two days ago, I found some fluid on my garage floor. I 
slipped under the car and you wouldn't believe what I found. When 
they adjusted the front tie rods, they neglected to unclamp the 
boots. They were twisted around like a cork screw! The driver's side 
finally cracked. Wish I had checked their work a little sooner. Live 
and learn.  Anyway, I have checked around and nobody seems to carry 
just the boots. Does anyone know a good cross reference or a source 
for these? Thanks in advance.
> Rustproof
> Vin #1559
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 15
Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2004 00:00:30 -0000
From: "bluemax86" <massimot_at_dml_rushmore.com>
Subject: Need Island Turbo compressor fan

Hi,

I am looking for a compressor fan (the silver looking one) for an
Island turbo. If anyone has one could you please let me know off line
ASAP.

Thanks
Max




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Message: 16
Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2004 00:18:48 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Alternator amps

Why mess around with a modification when any of the DeLorean vendors 
can help you. And, I can tell you from experience, John Hervey's 130 
works great!

Harold McElraft - 3354

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, nicholden_at_dml_y... wrote:
> Hi, my old alternator has gone and my question is i have a brand 
new 
> bosch one available that i can modify quite easily to fit. This 
> alternator is 120 amps. Is this enough or am i best to go for a 
> higher one? I know amps seems to be a big issue with delorean 
> electrical systems. I have never driven the car with the original 
> motorola one so cant comment on its performance with 80-90 amps.
> 
> Cheers Nick 10927




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Message: 17
Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2004 00:39:40 -0000
From: "Jeff Phillips" <jmanis2_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Help! Evaporator removal

I'm trying to remove my evaporator to have the AC repaired and I 
can't figureout how to get it out.  I've read the manual and can't 
make heads or tails from the terms they use (the tunnel, left crash 
pad, etc).  I've removed the blower, removed all of the down facing 
bolts holding the bottom of the heat/ac unit together and the one
(are there two) bolts connecting the bottom half of the heat/ac unit 
to the center portion of the unit.  

Does this thing have to come out a a whole unit or can I get the 
bottom off and remove the evaporator w/o removing the center console 
and entire unit?  What am I missing here?

Jeff




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Message: 18
Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2004 17:41:31 -0700 (PDT)
From: Louie G <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: Vac. Solonoid & idle (Louie Golden)

I'm actually not running on manual idle right now. I've decided with cooler weather around the corner I need to try and hunt down my idle problems as the car is a bear to start and keep running when the weather is cold with manual idle. You had the luxury of an auxilliary air valve on your car which I don't have. I've really gotten my idle improved though. Something which made the biggest difference was bending the throttle arm so that it contacts the microswitch in the dead center. It wasn't always tripping the microswitch before as it was off center. I've also played around with that wonderful little throttle link which is between the throttle arm and throttle spool. I've messed with it until there isn't any play in the system any more which could cause either the throttle plates to be slightly cracked, or to not trip the microswitch. I unplugged my vacuum solonoid a while back and the rpms dropped from 1500 down to 750. So I figured I must have a faulty solonoid. The new solonoid helps with the idle (and with acceleration!), but it hasn't completely cured my problem. The car hunts ever so slightly (we're talking no more than 100 rpms) but it's there. So coupled with the A/C knocking down the rpms I'm thinking I've got a vacuum leak somewhere. But I also had a thought: I remember the fuel curves for the 038 CPR were different than the 066. Is it possible it's feeding the engine more gas when the car warms up, and is causing the higher idle? It's literally like a switch flipping... the car when cold will idle just beautifully at 750, but then jumps up to about 1100.

Anyways, how's life on your end? Are the Lincolns occupying all your time, or have you played any more with your DeLo? Once you get it jetted right it should be an absolute hoot to drive. I've got people asking me all the time about your exhaust BTW. You could make up a kit yourself and go into business! :-) Well, I'm at work so I guess I should go. We do need to get together sometime soon though, you really need to meet Jeff from Concord. I think you two would really enjoy each other. Plus I hardly ever see you anymore. Well, that's all for now. -Louie


--- "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net> wrote:
Last I saw your engine you were setting idle speed manually by
cracking the throttle plates. Unless you've reactivated CIS, you're in
control of idle speed. Is set high to accomodate the A/C compressor
load. When fall comes you can dial it back full time until next summer.

Are you still running that Series 038 CPR? If so, don't try to route
its vacuum enrichment like a Series 066 (factory). Should be connected
directly to full manifold vacuum at all times, with no delay valve or
thermal switch. 

In fact: if you're going to continue to use that CPR I'd recommend
jetisoning remaining vacuum hoses in lieu of vacuum advance taken from
the ported line from under the throttle plates. You'd only have two
engine vacuum lines then:
1) directly from the manifold to the CPR
2) directly from the ported nipple to the distributor
Thermal vacuum switch would be unused under the intake (plug its
former takeoff on the driver intake rail with a 3/16" vacuum cap).

I seem to remember your CPR Tee'd from the vacuum canister purge line.
The smaller line next to it is the ported purge signal. Simply insert
a 3/16" Tee in it and run a hose to the distributor. 

Note that you may need to switch to idling from the brass manifold
screws rather than cracking the throttle plates (cracking them is what
opens that ported nipple).

Mode switch will hiss as it routes vacuum internally between different
positions. You're only in trouble if it hisses while stationary in the
same position.

Contact me off List (brobertson(at)carolina.net) if you'd like to
arrange a vacuum hose tech session.

Bill Robertson
#5939



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2004 01:02:20 -0000
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Cruise Night

Oh man it's too bad I didn't know about this. From where I live in the
Catskills it's not too bad of a drive- then there could have been 2
DeLos there lol. I just got back from vacation not too long ago and I
guess I really wasn't aware of this. New York is a great area to drive
around and see great sights, I'll miss it when I move to Cali next
year :(. If any of you know the Catskills, then you know to take great
care driving on the roads...unless its Saturday! The "other" people
out there make it hell. Dani B, 5003
> > 
> > Last night I went to Bear Mountain for a Cruise Night. The weather was
> > perfect. It is held every night during the summer on Wednesday night
> > near West Point in New York. The announcer said we broke the unoffical
> > record for the # of cars. There were 1,021 cars and I was the ONLY
> > Delorean! I met a woman who claimed her sister, Rose, was the personal
> > seamstriss to Christina Ferrare. She used to do all her clothes and
> > the drapes and such for the mansion. Said she still has the fitting
> > maniken for C/F. Just a bit of trivia and you never know who you might
> > meet at a show! Of course you get the ones too that said "I new
> > someone that had a Delorean once"! or some tell you about the one they
> > saw parked behind a house, inside the house, rotting under the tree,
> > etc, etc. 
> > David Teitelbaum
> > vin 10757

[long quote trimmed by moderator]



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Message: 20
Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2004 21:45:11 -0400
From: "Rustproof" <Rustproof_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Steering Rack Boots.

In answer to David's question...No they didn't inform me that I needed new
boots because I didn't. They were in very good shape. The guy was just too
lazy to do it right. No pride in workmanship whatsoever.  They claimed they
were probably like that when I came in...but so much time had
passed...Besides, after a brief discussion, it was obvious that the manager
had the intellectual capacity of a snow-cone and simply wasn't worth the
trouble. Lesson Learned...NO CHAIN STORE SHOPS.  As for Harold's
question...I brought the alignment specs with me. I knew there was no chance
they would have them.  (I now wonder if they even read them)  Anyway, I'm
going to see if the local parts store can match up what I have over the
weekend. If I don't have any luck there, I think I will take advantage of
Mike's generous offer in the UK. Unfortunately, by the time they arrive it
will be time to button her up for the season. Thanks everyone for your
input! Mike I'll let you know on Monday if that's O.K. with you.

Living the Dream, Having a Nightmare.
Rustproof
Vin 1559





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Message: 21
Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2004 18:47:15 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Cruise Night

I suggested this area to Ken for one of his DCS
events..  Also for a "Fall Tour".  I agree, it is a
good location for a driving tour.


--- whocruiser_at_dml_aol.com wrote:
<SNIP>
> Florida now) but it'd sure be a great area for
> someone to take a driving tour 
> - Palisades Parkway, across the Bear Mountain
> Bridge, great views from winding 
> mountain roads, especially from West Point over
> Storm King Mountain to the 
> Cornwall/Newburgh area.  I was going to drive the D
> through there on the way 
> home from Ken's Cleveland show a few years back, but
> the car was delayed getting 
> out of the shop that month from some major work, and
> I flew up & back instead 
> :-(
<SNIP>



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Message: 22
Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2004 01:59:17 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Rear Bumper Lettering

I saw the lettering in person earlier this week. It is FANTASTIC!  It
looks as good in the daylight when it is off as it does at night.
There are a couple of minor issues yet to be resolved but this is one
of the better cosmetic upgrades I have seen in a while. It should be
easy to install when all the "bugs" are fixed. It is not quite ready
for sale but if you are interested you should let Mark know so he can
gauge the demand. He may be comming to the Fall Tour so if he does
then more people can see it in person. BTW it is NOT obvious how he
did it but it is clever!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


-- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "endotex23" <endotex23_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> It should be obvious how he did it. Looks good at night but it 
> appears to cover the original letters and probably doesn't look so 
> good in the daylight. I did the same long ago but mine is backlit 
> behind the original molded letters. The downside is you'll have to 
> cut them out and replace with what I used. Mine comes on with the 
> brakes. You can wire it anyway you like though.
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> > How did you do that?
> > -vb




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Message: 23
Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2004 02:05:51 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Vac. Solonoid & idle

You shouldn't have to replace the mode switch. They can be
disassembled and lubricated. If the rubber diaphram disc is damaged it
can be replaced in a kit. Check the "O" ring seal under the mixture
unit for the pipe to the idle motor. Check the injector seals. Close
the 3 brass screws. It sounds like the idle motor circuit is not
working, it is not controling the idle speed. Turning on the A/C
should not affect the idle speed. In fact that is exactly why there is
an idle motor control, it is supposed to hold the idle speed constant
no matter the load on the motor from the alternator or the A/C.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Louie G <louie_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> I was just wondering if anyone could confirm to me that my vacuum
hose routing into my vacuum solonoid is correct. I have the line with
the u-shaped bend connected to the port closest to the electrical
connector.
> 
> Also, my mode switch hisses when I turn it while the car is not
running. That means I've got a vacuum leak there, right? The car is
idling at about 1000-1100 rpms when it gets warm. When the car is cold i




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Message: 24
Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2004 21:56:45 -0400
From: "Rustproof" <Rustproof_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Rear Bumper Lettering

[MODERATOR NOTE: Please don't start a discussion arguing how this was done.  Feel free to discuss how it *could* be done, but let's not get into a match showing off our reverse engineering skills just for the sake of looking smart.   - moderator Mike Substelny]

Looks like die or hand cut electroluminescent material to me. Must have some
small holes in each letter to run the contact wires through. I think it
looks great!
Rustproof
Vin 1559
----- Original Message -----
From: "endotex23" <endotex23_at_dml_yahoo.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 26, 2004 5:22 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] Rear Bumper Lettering


>
> It should be obvious how he did it. Looks good at night but it
> appears to cover the original letters and probably doesn't look so
> good in the daylight. I did the same long ago but mine is backlit
> behind the original molded letters. The downside is you'll have to
> cut them out and replace with what I used. Mine comes on with the
> brakes. You can wire it anyway you like though.
>
>
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> > How did you do that?
> > -vb



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Message: 25
Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2004 03:10:18 -0000
From: "llynn019" <llynn019_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Door won't close

Thanks for the advise on trying to "unlatch" my open door... it isn't 
working.  Anyone know if the latch is something easy to fix?  I can't 
exactly drive around with the door open.  I think the latch has 
gotten bent when the door was attempted to be closed with it in 
the "latched" position.

Lorraine
1141




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