From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2198
Date: Friday, August 27, 2004 3:43 AM

There is 1 message in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Torsion bar adjustment = cake!
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>





Message: 1
Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2004 03:30:03 -0000
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Torsion bar adjustment = cake!

If some of you remember the prequel to this post, it was 
called "Help my torsion bar is coming out!"

I finally got around to fixing it this evening.  I propped the door 
open with a broomstick.  Then, using a 1/2" breaker bar, hex socket, 
and 4' steel pipe ONLY, my friend and I proceeded to remove the bar, 
and then reinsert it, pushing it completely into front hinge.  There 
was some dirt that prevented it from going in beforehand.  The 
louvers and T-panel were both removed already.

I've gotta tell you guys, repairing the power mirror switch is about 
5 times harder than removing the torsion bar.  That is, with the 
right tools.  One thing that makes it a lot simpler is the fact that 
the retaining bracket bolts are VERY short, probably only like 1 
inch long total.  As far as torque on the bar, with the door open 
and a 4 foot pipe, the torque is barely noticeable.  In fact, it may 
even be a better idea to use a shorter pipe (3') just so that you 
don't remove the breaker bar prematurely.  

I can make an instructional video (on VHS) if anyone is 
interested.  :)  My digital cam can only do like 15 fps.  I may 
readjust the bars on both doors anyway after I get the door panels 
back on them.  I wasn't sure what the proper amount of torque would 
be, since I purchased Toby's door lock actuators.  

Matt
#1604




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