From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2199
Date: Saturday, August 28, 2004 4:02 AM

There are 18 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. RE: Re: Rear Bumper Lettering
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

2. Re: Help! Evaporator removal
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_fuse.net>

3. Re: Door won't close
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

4. Re: Alternator amps
From: nicholden_at_dml_yahoo.com

5. Re: Disabling/Reactivating CIS
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

6. Re: Torsion bar adjustment = cake!
From: DANIEL SHANE <daniel.shane_at_dml_btinternet.com>

7. Re: Need Island Turbo compressor fan
From: "Dave Stragand" <dave.stragand_at_dml_forwardlook.net>

8. RE: Re: Alternator amps
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

9. Re: Re: Rear Bumper Lettering
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayfw_at_dml_charter.net>

10. Re: Torsion bar adjustment = cake!
From: "Jake Kamphoefner" <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

11. Re: Steering Rack Boots.
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

12. Re: Door won't close
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

13. Re: Door won't close
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

14. Re: Arkansas Delorean
From: "wayofcain" <wayofcain_at_dml_yahoo.com>

15. Re: Bosch Alternator On DeLorean
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

16. Re: Torsion bar adjustment = cake!
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>

17. Re: Arkansas Delorean
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com>

18. Re: Cruise Night
From: "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_cox.net>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2004 22:53:04 -0500
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Rear Bumper Lettering

There is only two ways of doing it, and both would need some drilling into 
the fascia.
Either you would cut the letters out with a dremmel and put a translucent 
plate and a light behind it or you would use indiglo paper cut to fit, run 
the wire through the center of the letter
and out the back.
Unless this is a complete plate that fits OVER the old letters.

I have thought about all this before, where I wanted to cut the letters out 
and put a plate behind it that glows a dim white when on, and then turn bright 
red when braking.

It's not something that you could sell as a kit really, you just have to do 
it.
- VB


>From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Re: Rear Bumper Lettering
>Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2004 01:59:17 -0000
>
>I saw the lettering in person earlier this week. It is FANTASTIC!  It
>looks as good in the daylight when it is off as it does at night.
>There are a couple of minor issues yet to be resolved but this is one
>of the better cosmetic upgrades I have seen in a while. It should be
>easy to install when all the "bugs" are fixed. It is not quite ready
>for sale but if you are interested you should let Mark know so he can
>gauge the demand. He may be comming to the Fall Tour so if he does
>then more people can see it in person. BTW it is NOT obvious how he
>did it but it is clever!
>David Teitelbaum
>vin 10757
>
>

[moderator snip]



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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2004 00:01:21 -0400
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_fuse.net>
Subject: Re: Help! Evaporator removal

Jeff,

Evaporator removal is probably one of the most involved projects you can 
do on a DeLorean.  I've been parting these damaged cars out that I have 
over here for about a year now, and of the four I have down to the bare 
fiberglass bodies...two still have the evaporator/heater core box in 
them because they are such a pain to get out.

It does basically involve removing the center console, passenger 
kneepad, glovebox and just about everything else in that area.  Once you 
have all that out, you have to disconnect the pipes on the front, by 
either getting in the passenger side front wheel well, or by removing 
the fuel tank access panel under the spare tire, and most often you have 
to go at it from both sides.  Since they are aluminum fittings, they are 
almost always seized, and just generally a pain in the butt to get off.

The problem with trying to remove just the bottom portion of the box, is 
that there are not only screws that go all along the lip in the middle, 
(all the way around, including around back against the cowl) but also 
some screws that hold the evaporator box to the heater core box.  Not a 
fun job.  After discovering the dreaded antifreeze residue on my 
windshield from the heater core leaking earlier this year, I've just 
about decided to take my car into a shop to have this fixed.  I hate 
that job!

-Josh
VIN 5102
VIN 15964
VIN 11289 (parts)
VIN 10236 (parts)
VIN 3951 (parts)

Jeff Phillips wrote:

>I'm trying to remove my evaporator to have the AC repaired and I 
>can't figureout how to get it out.  I've read the manual and can't 
>make heads or tails from the terms they use (the tunnel, left crash 
>pad, etc).  I've removed the blower, removed all of the down facing 
>bolts holding the bottom of the heat/ac unit together and the one
>(are there two) bolts connecting the bottom half of the heat/ac unit 
>to the center portion of the unit.  
>
>Does this thing have to come out a a whole unit or can I get the 
>bottom off and remove the evaporator w/o removing the center console 
>and entire unit?  What am I missing here?
>
>Jeff



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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2004 05:13:38 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Door won't close

As a last resort (because you'll have to readjust it), you can
disconnect the troublesome connecting rod from the bell crank and
activate it manually.

Seriously doubt anything's been bent. Latch itself is a thick piece of
pronged steel, against which your striker bolt is merely bonking.
You'd probably force the striker bolt out of the underbody before you
damaged anything inside the door.

I once got one of my latches hopelessly stuck closed with the door up
until I realized the door lock button had been inadvertently flipped.
Freshly unlocking the door allowed me to easily flip it open with a
screwdriver.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "llynn019" <llynn019_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Thanks for the advise on trying to "unlatch" my open door... it isn't 
> working.  Anyone know if the latch is something easy to fix?  I can't 
> exactly drive around with the door open.  I think the latch has 
> gotten bent when the door was attempted to be closed with it in 
> the "latched" position.
> 
> Lorraine
> 1141




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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2004 06:25:17 -0000
From: nicholden_at_dml_yahoo.com
Subject: Re: Alternator amps

I live in Australia so would not be pratical to get one freighted 
over as they charge on weight. It wouldnt cost me anything to modify 
this bosch one apart from a bit of time, but dont want to put a 120 
amp one on to be dissapointed with its performance. Thanks for all 
the replys!

Cheers Nick 10927



Message: 16
Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2004 00:18:48 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Alternator amps

Why mess around with a modification when any of the DeLorean vendors 
can help you. And, I can tell you from experience, John Hervey's 130 
works great!

Harold McElraft - 3354

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, nicholden_at_dml_y... wrote:
> Hi, my old alternator has gone and my question is i have a brand 
new 
> bosch one available that i can modify quite easily to fit. This 
> alternator is 120 amps. Is this enough or am i best to go for a 
> higher one? I know amps seems to be a big issue with delorean 
> electrical systems. I have never driven the car with the original 
> motorola one so cant comment on its performance with 80-90 amps.
> 
> Cheers Nick 10927






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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2004 06:03:14 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Disabling/Reactivating CIS

How long did it take you to reactivate CIS? Five minutes perhaps?
That's why I advocate at least knowing how to idle the engine manually
(for diagnostics if nothing else):
1) Is temporary, not permanent
2) CIS can be disabled or reactivated within minutes

CPR currently on your engine does allow it to run rich 50% longer than
a stock unit, but ultimately warms up to the same spec (including a
full throttle enrichment mechanism). Every Volvo ap CPR likely to be
encountered max's at 49-53 PSI counter pressure. Only difference is
cold pressure (Series 038 starts close to 0 versus 15 PSI for 066
Series), length of time to warm up (038 max's at 160 versus 105
degrees F), and presence/method of full throttle enrichment (Series
004 used on B27F has none). 

PRV's do not like liquid fuel at all. That's my jetting issue
(secondaries are not vaporized like primaries). Is also why I've
disconnected the accelerator pump. I suppose someone with leaking or
improperly spraying K Jetronic injectors suffers the same consequences.

Home made dual exhaust costs $150 using common mail order parts. No
kit is necessary.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Louie G <louie_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> I'm actually not running on manual idle right now. I've decided with
cooler weather around the corner I need to try and hunt down my idle
problems as the car is a bear to start and keep running when the
weather is cold with manual idle. You had the luxury of an auxilliary
air valve on your car which I don't have. I've really gotten my idle
improved though. Something which made the biggest difference was
bending the throttle arm so that it contacts the microswitch in the
dead center. It wasn't always tripping the microswitch before as it
was off center. I've also played around with that wonderful little
throttle link which is between the throttle arm and throttle spool.
I've messed with it until there isn't any play in the system any more
which could cause either the throttle plates to be slightly cracked,
or to not trip the microswitch. I unplugged my vacuum solonoid a while
back and the rpms dropped from 1500 down to 750. So I figured I must
have a faulty solonoid. The new solonoid helps with the idle (and with
acceleration!), but it hasn't completely cured my problem. The car
hunts ever so slightly (we're talking no more than 100 rpms) but it's
there. So coupled with the A/C knocking down the rpms I'm thinking
I've got a vacuum leak somewhere. But I also had a thought: I remember
the fuel curves for the 038 CPR were different than the 066. Is it
possible it's feeding the engine more gas when the car warms up, and
is causing the higher idle? It's literally like a switch flipping...
the car when cold will idle just beautifully at 750, but then jumps up
to about 1100.
> 
> Anyways, how's life on your end? Are the Lincolns occupying all your
time, or have you played any more with your DeLo? Once you get it
jetted right it should be an absolute hoot to drive. I've got people
asking me all the time about your exhaust BTW. You could make up a kit
yourself and go into business! :-) Well, I'm at work so I guess I
should go. We do need to get together sometime soon though, you really
need to meet Jeff from Concord. I think you two would really enjoy
each other. Plus I hardly ever see you anymore. Well, that's all for
now. -Louie
> 





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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2004 09:47:33 +0100 (BST)
From: DANIEL SHANE <daniel.shane_at_dml_btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Torsion bar adjustment = cake!

Matt,

I would be interested in a video of the procedure. 
Maybe as an Mpeg file that We could all download ????

Dan

 --- Matt Spittle <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu> wrote: 
> If some of you remember the prequel to this post, it
> was 
> called "Help my torsion bar is coming out!"
> 
> I finally got around to fixing it this evening.  I
> propped the door 
> open with a broomstick.  Then, using a 1/2" breaker
> bar, hex socket, 
> and 4' steel pipe ONLY, my friend and I proceeded to
> remove the bar, 
> and then reinsert it, pushing it completely into
> front hinge.  There 
> was some dirt that prevented it from going in
> beforehand.  The 
> louvers and T-panel were both removed already.
> 
> I've gotta tell you guys, repairing the power mirror
> switch is about 
> 5 times harder than removing the torsion bar.  That
> is, with the 
> right tools.  One thing that makes it a lot simpler
> is the fact that 
> the retaining bracket bolts are VERY short, probably
> only like 1 
> inch long total.  As far as torque on the bar, with
> the door open 
> and a 4 foot pipe, the torque is barely noticeable. 
> In fact, it may 
> even be a better idea to use a shorter pipe (3')
> just so that you 
> don't remove the breaker bar prematurely.  
> 
> I can make an instructional video (on VHS) if anyone
> is 
> interested.  :)  My digital cam can only do like 15
> fps.  I may 
> readjust the bars on both doors anyway after I get
> the door panels 
> back on them.  I wasn't sure what the proper amount
> of torque would 
> be, since I purchased Toby's door lock actuators.  
> 
> Matt
> #1604



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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2004 08:32:26 -0400
From: "Dave Stragand" <dave.stragand_at_dml_forwardlook.net>
Subject: Re: Need Island Turbo compressor fan

Max wrote: 
> I am looking for a compressor fan (the silver looking one) for an Island
turbo. 
> If anyone has one could you please let me know off line ASAP.
 
Max,  I have an Island turbo and have no idea what fan you're talking about.
The kit did not come with any additional fans.
 
-Dave Stragand
VIN #5927


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2004 07:43:53 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Alternator amps

[MODERATOR NOTE: Yes, please do send your response by private email.  - moderator Mike Substelny]

Nick, Just for kicks, What's the postal code over there. You can send off
line if you wish.
John Hervey


-----Original Message-----
From: nicholden_at_dml_yahoo.com [mailto:nicholden_at_dml_yahoo.com]
Sent: Friday, August 27, 2004 12:25 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Alternator amps


> I live in Australia so would not be pratical to get one freighted
> over as they charge on weight. It wouldnt cost me anything to modify
> this bosch one apart from a bit of time, but dont want to put a 120
> amp one on to be dissapointed with its performance. Thanks for all
> the replys!
> 
> Cheers Nick 10927



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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2004 05:49:43 -0700
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayfw_at_dml_charter.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Rear Bumper Lettering

I guess I am the rebel in the group.   I would prefer to somehow fill in
those letters so the that bumper area is smooth as silk.....then take off
the front DMC logo on the "grille".  No ID showing externally whatsoever!
Before I got my D about 8 years ago I was looking forward to getting the SS
inserts for that area but after talking to one of our PNWD members, I
decided I liked his thought of having it "dark and mysterious".   Of course
in the first place even doing that, you are not going to FOOL anyone as to
the origin of the car.  I pretty much Stands Out anyway!  Just my thoughts
FWIW!  Everyone to their own poison!

Murray
Vin: 05962
Lic: DMC XII




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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2004 08:23:07 -0500
From: "Jake Kamphoefner" <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Torsion bar adjustment = cake!



There's already one out there, somewhere.  I've got a video on my hard drive
of Rob Grady doing it in Memphis.  Anyone remember what site this is on?

Jake in 1063


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "DANIEL SHANE" <daniel.shane_at_dml_btinternet.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, August 27, 2004 3:47 AM
Subject: Re: [DML] Torsion bar adjustment = cake!


> Matt,
>
> I would be interested in a video of the procedure.
> Maybe as an Mpeg file that We could all download ????
>
> Dan
>




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Message: 11
Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2004 13:14:25 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Steering Rack Boots.

I don't understand why you don't get the boots from DMCH or Grady? 
They have them in stock with clamps.

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Rustproof" <Rustproof_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> In answer to David's question...No they didn't inform me that I 
needed new
> boots because I didn't. They were in very good shape. The guy was 
just too
> lazy to do it right. No pride in workmanship whatsoever.  They 
claimed they
> were probably like that when I came in...but so much time had
> passed...Besides, after a brief discussion, it was obvious that 
the manager
> had the intellectual capacity of a snow-cone and simply wasn't 
worth the
> trouble. Lesson Learned...NO CHAIN STORE SHOPS.  As for Harold's
> question...I brought the alignment specs with me. I knew there was 
no chance
> they would have them.  (I now wonder if they even read them)  
Anyway, I'm
> going to see if the local parts store can match up what I have 
over the
> weekend. If I don't have any luck there, I think I will take 
advantage of
> Mike's generous offer in the UK. Unfortunately, by the time they 
arrive it
> will be time to button her up for the season. Thanks everyone for 
your
> input! Mike I'll let you know on Monday if that's O.K. with you.
> 
> Living the Dream, Having a Nightmare.
> Rustproof
> Vin 1559




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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2004 13:58:49 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Door won't close

This will probably involve opening up the door and unlatching it
manually. If you are having this problem you will probably have to go
over ALL the door linkage adjustments inside anyway. It is a very
involved procedure. When you remove the panels covering the inside of
the door cover all the exposed edges of the S/S with duct tape so you
don't cut yourself all up. This happens because the door gets forced.
The door is not supposed to be lockable unless BOTH front and rear
latches are in the second locked position. If one or both are not and
you force the door to be locked it stretches and bends the linkages.
The procedure is in the Workshop Manual. It is also possible a linkage
to the lock has falen off so it is not unlatching. In any case you
will have to go inside the door. After you get the door adjusted you
may have to readjust the door locking pins. Trying to close the door
when it is latched already may have knocked the pin out of alignment.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "llynn019" <llynn019_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Thanks for the advise on trying to "unlatch" my open door... it isn't 
> working.  Anyone know if the latch is something easy to fix?  I can't 
> exactly drive around with the door open.  I think the latch has 





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Message: 13
Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2004 13:28:58 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Door won't close

If it will not come unlatched then the latch was probably never 
working - that is, it was always "unlatched" when the door was 
closed. The operating rod inside the door is probably damaged or is 
disconnected. Looks like you are going to have to go door-diving to 
find out. It is not that big of a deal once you are in there - I 
seriously doubt if the latch is bent - it would take some serious 
slaming to do that.

There is a service bulletin devoted to door-lock door-latch 
adjustments (ST-10-8/81). Once the parts are working you should 
follow the steps EXACTLY. Don't get out of sequence. Once set they 
seldom get out of adjustment again.

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "llynn019" <llynn019_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Thanks for the advise on trying to "unlatch" my open door... it 
isn't 
> working.  Anyone know if the latch is something easy to fix?  I 
can't 
> exactly drive around with the door open.  I think the latch has 
> gotten bent when the door was attempted to be closed with it in 
> the "latched" position.
> 
> Lorraine
> 1141




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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2004 14:07:43 -0000
From: "wayofcain" <wayofcain_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Arkansas Delorean

Run the other way!!!

I checked it out about 2 months ago. Water in the oil (blown head 
gasket?),it's overheated many times, rusty frame, no body panels line 
up.

 The Odometer reads 42XXX or so but the cable has been disconnected 
and the car's wear isn't consistent. In fact the car's wear is more 
consistent with an un-maintained 140,000 mile car. The interior is 
heavily worn and underneath looks like it was driven regularly down a 
gravel road.

It's electrical system is shot, melted fues box, previous owner quick 
fix jury rigging, and it looks like someone jumped it in the air 
General Lee style when you look under the front. Lots of hidden 
damage there.

I could go on and on about how bad of shape it's in.

The owner pleads ignorance and that the car is fine. Yet in the trunk 
were print outs of pages from Delorean.com, even though the owner 
acted as though he didn't know you could still get parts. I saw many 
printouts for the parts I saw that needed replacing, including the 
headgasket and more printouts for parts I hadn't even looked at so 
there is more hidden.

He originally was asking $13,500 but quickly came down to $6,000!!

The only way that car would be worth buying was if it were $2500 and 
you planned on making a super custom or something. Otherwise it's 
nearing the end of its life cycle and will be parts soon.

Cain Grimes
002835



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Jason" <rowejj_at_dml_t...> wrote:
>             Hey All,
>                         I keep forgetting to ask this. I went to 
Mountain Home Arkansas (up by Missouri) a couple months ago. 
> There was a small car museum in town. It was only open on saturday, 
I got there on Sunday and left on Friday so I didn't
> get to go to it. Anyway, I looked through the front window of the 
building and there was a red Delorean right in front of the 
> window. The buildings windows were tinted so I couldn't get that 
great a look at it. Anyone know about this car? I'm looking
> to move to the area within the year so there may be a red one and a 
stainless one!  
> 
>                                                                     
    Jason #5903
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 15
Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2004 15:53:39 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Bosch Alternator On DeLorean

Biggest problem you're likely to encounter is inability to use the
stock adjusting bracket. DeLo adjusting bolt is much less than 180
degrees from the pivot bolt -- simply make yourself a new bracket that
curves around the housing. Notice the bracket that holds the pivot
bolt at the back of the alternator is not cast into the housing.

Input terminal may be a spade rather than threaded stud.

Make sure the alternator has a built in voltage regulator...

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, nicholden_at_dml_y... wrote:
> I live in Australia so would not be pratical to get one freighted 
> over as they charge on weight. It wouldnt cost me anything to modify 
> this bosch one apart from a bit of time, but dont want to put a 120 
> amp one on to be dissapointed with its performance. Thanks for all 
> the replys!
> 
> Cheers Nick 10927
> 





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Message: 16
Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2004 16:11:33 -0000
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>
Subject: Re: Torsion bar adjustment = cake!

I would also be interested. I need to adjust mine, they're too strong
now that I've replaced those heavy door lock solenoids.

-Ryan

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, DANIEL SHANE <daniel.shane_at_dml_b...> wrote:
> Matt,
> 
> I would be interested in a video of the procedure. 
> Maybe as an Mpeg file that We could all download ????
> 
> Dan

[moderator snip]



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Message: 17
Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2004 11:32:31 -0700 (PDT)
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Arkansas Delorean

I have seen that car many times.  I'd have another 10k
bare-minimum for it ready.  The previous owner of my
car told me "Yeah it runs great, just needs a quick
tuneup and a new exhaust manifold".  Well, almost 18k
later, I'm still working (and haven't fixed that
exhaust manifold gasket yet ..lol).  IG to what I
payed for though, so I'm not saying I was COMPLETELY
ripped off, but any car under 15k-20k...I would start
sniffing around to find out waht stinks about it. 
Just my two cents. (Now $18000.02 in debt =P)

Jeremiah


--- motarhedd_at_dml_aol.com wrote:

> 
> hey there,
> 
> a quick look on the internet for D's will bring up
> this particular car. i emailed the owner, back when
> i was in the market, and all he really had to say
> was it had minor mechanical problems. it was going
> for about 9k... kinda fishy. obviously a
> fixer-upper.
> 
> Good Luck,
> Russell
> vin#1790



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Message: 18
Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2004 15:00:22 -0000
From: "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Cruise Night

That's so true.  At the Cailfornia Autofest, I met a spectator that 
was at the shooting of the "remote controlled DeLorean" at Putne 
Hills Mall for BTTF.  He said that he watched the scene when the car 
was running around the lot and also when the film crew were dousing 
the car with liquid nitrogen to get that fresh time-dispersal look.

That's one thing I've learned about car shows: diversity of people.

Johnny
5518



Just a bit of trivia and you never know who you might
> meet at a show! Of course you get the ones too that said "I new
> someone that had a Delorean once"! or some tell you about the one 
they
> saw parked behind a house, inside the house, rotting under the tree,
> etc, etc. 
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757




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