From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2202
Date: Monday, August 30, 2004 3:17 PM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Impact Absorber.
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

2. Re: Re: Rear Bumper Lettering
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

3. Re: Re: Rear Bumper Lettering - daytime
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

4. Re: Re: SIDE STRIPES
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

5. RE: Re: SIDE STRIPES
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

6. Re: need pics of shift boot please
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>

7. Water pump replacement
From: "drdhdmd" <doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com>

8. Re: Auto trans inhibitor switch
From: Thomas Mc Auley <dmc4087_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>

9. Re: Re: Rear Bumper Lettering - daytime
From: Peter Lucas <lucas_at_dml_Maya.com>

10. Re: Auto trans inhibitor switch
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

11. Re: Auto trans inhibitor switch
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

12. angle drive
From: "Marvin" <marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com>

13. Re: 4th Angle Drive
From: "Hank" <henry_at_dml_ix.netcom.com>

14. Re: angle drive
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

15. Re: Water pump replacement
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

16. Re: SIDE STRIPES
From: "p12c16" <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com>

17. Re: angle drive
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

18. Changing Oil
From: Chris Shepherd <chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com>

19. Re: Re: Auto trans inhibitor switch
From: Peter Lucas <lucas_at_dml_Maya.com>

20. Re: Water pump replacement
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

21. Re: Re: SIDE STRIPES
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

22. Re: Changing Oil
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

23. RE: Water pump replacement
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

24. RE: Re: SIDE STRIPES
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

25. RE: Water pump replacement
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2004 01:40:34 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Impact Absorber.

I've never seen any issue with just leaving it as it. It does not 
seem to be an open-cell foam. I've never seen the foam rot, and I've 
seen a lot of these cars apart now. 

I HAVE seen someone very effectively cover it with duct tape. 
Otherwise, just about any paint would do the job. 

Dave S


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_c...> 
wrote:
> After replacing my water pump, I am now in the middle of 
reassembling 
> the engine, and soon, I'll be remounting the rear facia. In the 
mean 
> time, I have a quick question.
> 
> While working on the back of my car, a good portion of the coating 
on 
> the rear impact absorber has sloughed right off the foam in sheets. 
> Does anyone know what I can spray back on, to cover the exposed 
> areas? Looking at it, I understand that this is to keep the foam 
from 
> rotting, by keeping water spray off of it. 




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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2004 21:57:25 EDT
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Rear Bumper Lettering

for what it is no one will ever notice the wires and such on the  road.
 
I like the looks of it 
 
Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2004 21:55:32 EDT
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Rear Bumper Lettering - daytime

 
In a message dated 8/29/2004 8:26:48 PM Eastern Daylight Time,  
mcb_at_dml_babbtechnology.com writes:

http://www.geocities.com/malevy_nj/bumper/ 


A flat ribbon would have been an interesting way it could have gone behind  
the letters and not required all the drilling then made to look like an accent  
strip on the bumper.
 
Just a thought but I think it can be done with no holes drilled
 
Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2004 21:52:20 EDT
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: SIDE STRIPES

One thing to note here 
 
Vinyls usually do well in UV and many have UV inhibitors 
if they don't they won't last a year.
 
Anyway I am not here to debate the new sidestripes just thought I would add  
my 2 cents on vinyl..  More important is the adhesive.
 
Ken
 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2004 21:30:04 -0500
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Re: SIDE STRIPES

I stand by my statement....
Sure, Stainless Steel will last a lot longer, but if you leave it out in the 
sun long enough,
say 1000 years or so... it will deteriate. - LOL
- VB


>From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Re: SIDE STRIPES
>Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2004 01:19:20 -0000
>
>I disagree with your statement that nothing is "sunproof". On just
>about any of the Deloreans I have seen, in whatever shape they may be
>in, the Stainless Steel is still fine except for some scratches! I
>believe that is why even a 20 year old Delorean that has not been well
>taken care of and "left-for-dead" outside can still look as good as it
>does! Any other 20 year old car taken care of like that usually has no
>paint left. No one thinks to look underneath where the "real" money
>will have to be spent.
>David Teitelbaum
>vin 10757
>
>
> > part of it is going to deteriate....the louvers, the bumpers, the rub
> > strips, the interior....all of it.
> > Nothing is SUN PROOF.
> >
> > - VB
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>





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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2004 12:18:43 -0000
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: need pics of shift boot please

Agreed, a waste of time because after all that effort, you'll still 
have the flimsy plastic boot. DMCH & Grady both have a nice metal 
boot with a really nice & soft real leather boot also. I have one of 
each on both cars, and the one from Houston has slightly thicker 
leather. Keep you spare leather you have now, in case you were to 
tear the new on, then you could just recover the metal boot. Just a 
thought, since the plastic just gives you problems.

Joe OBrien

2524 & 16634




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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2004 12:05:58 -0000
From: "drdhdmd" <doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Water pump replacement

What is the newest info on a water pump replacement?  Are the Car 
Quest pumps a good fit?  What about using the bolt on pulley?  Do I 
need to buy the special one from DNW?  Lastly, what about replacing 
the hoses and the metal pipe in the valley of death?  Is silicone THE 
way to go?

Thanks again,

Dave & 6530




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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2004 13:39:18 +0100 (BST)
From: Thomas Mc Auley <dmc4087_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Auto trans inhibitor switch

Ok Dave/David, I have both of the connections out on the gearbox, what exactly am I looking for or supposed to do? I checked the relay and the connections seem fine, I even sprayed them with electrical contact cleaner just incase.
 
The problem is, sometimes my car would not start, and I would have to shake the shifter in park or neutral, and then it would start. This doesnt work anymore. Any ideas welcomed!

Dave Swingle <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com> wrote:
Be really sure to put a new o-ring on it, and some RTV, or it will leak forever. 
 
That is also the reverse light switch. 
 
Dave
----- Original Message ----- From: Thomas Mc Auley 
To: Dave Swingle 
Sent: Sunday, August 29, 2004 4:59 PM
Subject: Re: Auto trans inhibitor switch



Really?! I had that out, and because oil poured into my face I thought that was the wrong thing! 
Thanks Dave!
Thomas,
Vin 4087

Dave Swingle <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com> wrote:
Looking from the back of the car, just above the pan on the transmission
there are two electrical connection. It is the one on the right that is held
in with a couple of allen screws. When you pull it out the fluid will come
out the hole so it's best to drain the trans first.

This seldom fails - check the relay and other wiring first.

Dave Swingle

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Thomas Mc Auley" 
To: 
Sent: Sunday, August 29, 2004 4:22 PM
Subject: Auto trans inhibitor switch


Hi guys, can anyone tell me where the inhibitor switch is for the
auto trans, I cant find it, and the manuals arent helpful.
Thanks!
Thomas
4087




---------------------------------
ALL-NEW Yahoo! Messenger - all new features - even more fun! 
		
---------------------------------
 ALL-NEW Yahoo! Messenger - all new features - even more fun!  

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2004 09:26:59 -0400
From: Peter Lucas <lucas_at_dml_Maya.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Rear Bumper Lettering - daytime

> Just a thought but I think it can be done with no holes drilled
>
Also just a thought, but I bet if you pierce the plastic with a pair of 
  very fine sewing needles and use them as conductors, the holes that 
would remain would be all but invisible--especially if you did it at an 
edge of one of the indented letters.

--Pete Lucas
   VIN #06703




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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2004 14:04:26 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Auto trans inhibitor switch

You didn't say before that it worked if you moved the shifter! I would
now go over the adjustments of the shifter linkage and make sure
everything is nice and tight and lubricated. If the switch isn't in
park or neutral it doesn't matter where the shifter in the console is.
The switch is inside the transmission so the linkage must have it in
the correct position. Of the two connections in the trans the one held
in by bolts is the combo switch. There are 2 plungers on it. One is
for the back-up light and the other is for the neutral switch. You can
also check and clean the plugs in the big plug thingy on the firewall
by the diagnostic plug.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Thomas Mc Auley <dmc4087_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Ok Dave/David, I have both of the connections out on the gearbox,
what exactly am I looking for or supposed to do? I checked the relay
and the connections seem fine, I even sprayed them with electrical
contact cleaner just incase.
>  
> The problem is, sometimes my car would not start, and I would have to 




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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2004 14:31:56 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Auto trans inhibitor switch

The two little plungers on thw switch are the start inhibit and 
backup light switches. You should be able to check them easily with 
an ohm meter or test light. I'd more likely suspect that there is 
some mis-adjustment in the linkage, i.e. it may get bad enough to be 
able to start with the lever in "reverse" and the backup lights are 
coming on in "neutral". If bad enough you may not be able to get the 
car into park. This adjustment is at the crossover linkage next to 
the accumulator. 

Trace the wiring up to the connection box on the firewall (driver 
side) - are all the plugs clean and tight? Take a look a the wiring, 
this goes close to the crossover pipe and if mis-placed can burn thru 
and cause all kinds of interesting problems. 

Does your transmission appear to be in the right gear based on lever 
position? Do the reverse lights operate normally? Can you "jump" the 
switch at the relay or junction box and get it to start? 

Dave

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Thomas Mc Auley <dmc4087_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Ok Dave/David, I have both of the connections out on the gearbox, 
what exactly am I looking for or supposed to do? I checked the relay 
and the connections seem fine, I even sprayed them with electrical 
contact cleaner just incase.
>  
> The problem is, sometimes my car would not start, and I would have 
to shake the shifter in park or neutral, and then it would start. 
This doesnt work anymore. Any ideas welcomed!
> 




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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2004 10:40:01 -0400
From: "Marvin" <marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com>
Subject: angle drive

After installing the new angle drive, how does the speedo cable bracket fit and to what? My was hanging down. Any photos?

Marv.
# 17077
marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2004 10:48:09 -0400
From: "Hank" <henry_at_dml_ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: 4th Angle Drive

>Is there a solution?

Yes, Bob, there is a solution.   Sell your Delorean, and buy a !#$%^&*$_at_dml_ Mustang!








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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2004 15:40:11 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: angle drive

There are a couple of ways to do this. 

Early cars have a small plastic snap-slip that is supposed to hold 
the cable in the same place, but it's essentially useless except as 
an anchor point for a zip-tie. 

In the "photos" section on the Yahoo site (tech stuff) there's a pic 
of the later wire-type bracket that holds the cable. Drawback to that 
is that installing a new bracket requires R&R of the brake caliper. 

Also common is to thread a zip tie around the speedo cable and the 
hard brake line it passes. Not as elegant but it works. 

Dave S

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Marvin" <marv_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> After installing the new angle drive, how does the speedo cable 
bracket fit and to what? My was hanging down. Any photos?
> 
> Marv.
> # 17077
> marv_at_dml_p...
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2004 15:42:24 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Water pump replacement

For some reason there's a popular misconception in the DeLo community
that PRV water pumps are obscure or rare. Nothing could be further
from the truth (Douvrin *DID* manufacture nearly 1,000,000 engines!).
I've purchased 3 NIB off eBay, all from different manufacturers (plus
3 on my various engines -- total of 6). Slight variations in
reinforcing ribs cast into the housings, and some have additional
sensor ports around the thermostat neck, but they otherwise share:
- Same overall dimensions
- Same three mounting holes
- Same shaft (pulley or flange just presses on)
- Same thermostat housing mating surface
- Same location for a thermal time switch, though it may not be
drilled & tapped
- Same return barbs
- Same back mating surface

NOTE: There are some pumps that have the takeoff barb on the other
side of the back (what I call "right handed", because the barb is on
the right). These will NOT mate to our internal water distribution
pipes. Impeller groove is 180 degrees opposite as well, so you can't
simply swap the backs either.

Otherwise, any PRV water pump should work on a DeLo. 

Bolt on Volvo pulleys are the same diameter as pressed on DeLo
pulleys, with the rear belt located the same distance from the pump
(are double belted). Darryl Tinnerstet's pulley uses the same
dimensions, but omits the front belt. Remember that you need a flange
pressed onto the shaft for such pulleys to bolt to.

Another popular misconception in the DeLo community is purpose of the 
metal heater core return pipe under the intake manifold: is only there
to locate a barb conveniently for assembly line vehicle production. Is
not there for "heat protection" (a rubber hose connects it to the
pump!). Is not there for "protection from sharp edges" (are none).
Most Volvo owners just throw it away in lieu of contiguous hose. Note
that the pipe does serve to adapt 5/8" heater core return line to 3/4"
barb on the pump back -- in it's place you will need an adapter
commonly available at any parts house or plumbing supplier.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "drdhdmd" <doctorDHD_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> What is the newest info on a water pump replacement?  Are the Car 
> Quest pumps a good fit?  What about using the bolt on pulley?  Do I 
> need to buy the special one from DNW?  Lastly, what about replacing 
> the hoses and the metal pipe in the valley of death?  Is silicone THE 
> way to go?
> 
> Thanks again,
> 
> Dave & 6530




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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2004 15:54:08 -0000
From: "p12c16" <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: SIDE STRIPES

Here is my $.02 on VB's stripe,
         I don't like how the DMC is just cut out and the stainless shows through, 
the original way was much more classy.  The silver DMC with the black 
outlines in the DMC looked very professional on the originals.  2nd, by 
looking at VB's pictures you can see how important it is that the black rubstrips 
down the side MUST be perfectly straight before adding on the sidestripe.  On 
VB's car you can see how the rear quarterpanel's stripe doesn't line up exactly 
with the door.  The same goes for the front.  It makes the stripe look crooked in 
places.  I am very picky about my D looking perfect, and the little things like 
this would bug me on my car.

Patrick
1880




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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2004 15:16:34 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: angle drive

The lower speedometer cable support bracket is attached by the 2 bolts
that hold the caliper bracket on the spindle. Just look at the back of
the spindle and you will see 2 large bolts spaced the same distance
apart as the holes in the bracket. Make sure they are reattached
tightly as they hold the brake on.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Marvin" <marv_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> After installing the new angle drive, how does the speedo cable
bracket fit and to what? My was hanging down. Any photos?
> 
> Marv.
> # 17077
> marv_at_dml_p...
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2004 10:19:45 -0700 (PDT)
From: Chris Shepherd <chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Changing Oil

I finally got smart and removed that cheezy plastic screen in the oil fill hole. After years of having to put the oil in VERY slowly I got out a flashlight and looked in. What the hell is the function of that thing? Only thing it will keep out is gravel. Am I the last one to discover this?

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2004 13:57:55 -0400
From: Peter Lucas <lucas_at_dml_Maya.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Auto trans inhibitor switch

When I first got my D, it had similar problems.  Turned out that the 
multi-switch on the transmission was physically damaged.  Probably 
nailed by a rock or some such. It didn't look very damaged, but the 
alignment is kind of critical, so it was enough.  Replacing the switch 
fixed it (those switches come with new shift computers, so lots of 
people have them on their shelves--ask around).
--Pete Lucas
   VIN #06703

On Aug 30, 2004, at 10:31 AM, Dave Swingle wrote:

> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Thomas Mc Auley <dmc4087_at_dml_y...> wrote:
>> Ok Dave/David, I have both of the connections out on the gearbox,
> what exactly am I looking for or supposed to do? I checked the relay
> and the connections seem fine, I even sprayed them with electrical
> contact cleaner just incase.
>>
>> The problem is, sometimes my car would not start, and I would have
> to shake the shifter in park or neutral, and then it would start.
> This doesnt work anymore. Any ideas welcomed!
>>




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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2004 17:31:56 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Water pump replacement

>From Bill's post you can see that there are many variations of water
pump that can fit on a PRV. It is always easier and more convenient to
order the CORRECT one from one of the Delorean venders. They can also
get you all of the other small parts, seals, hoses, etc that you WILL
need. In some cases even if you can find a part locally it might be
cheaper from a "D" vender. Besides, if you buy parts from a vender you
can get all the phone support you need. How would you feel if you got
that pump that didn't fit and called one of the venders up? The first
thing you would have to say is you bought it on E-Bay! If you know
what you are doing and are willing to "take a chance" then it can be
an option but you can't expect one of the venders to help! As for
silicone hoses YES, they are worth it. You cannot retighten the hose
clamps on many of the small hoses under the intake manifold so using
silicone removes that problem. I am not sure if all venders offer
silicone. I know P J Grady does in their kit.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> For some reason there's a popular misconception in the DeLo community
> that PRV water pumps are obscure or rare. Nothing could be further
> from the truth (Douvrin *DID* manufacture nearly 1,000,000 engines!).





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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2004 13:53:28 -0500
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: SIDE STRIPES

...this material is designed for outdoor use, for everything from truck roof 
tops to grip covering for steps.
It is very thick and durable and made to face the sun.
I don't know if it has a Coppertone tan or not, but the stuff is thick.
I will let you now how it holds up in a couple of years.
-VB


>From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [DML] Re: SIDE STRIPES
>Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2004 21:52:20 EDT
>
>One thing to note here
>
>Vinyls usually do well in UV and many have UV inhibitors
>if they don't they won't last a year.
>
>Anyway I am not here to debate the new sidestripes just thought I would add
>my 2 cents on vinyl..  More important is the adhesive.
>
>Ken
>
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>





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Message: 22
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2004 18:43:17 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Changing Oil

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Chris Shepherd <chrisau79_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> I finally got smart and removed that cheezy plastic screen in the 
oil fill hole. After years of having to put the oil in VERY slowly I 
got out a flashlight and looked in. What the hell is the function of 
that thing? Only thing it will keep out is gravel. Am I the last one 
to discover this?
<SNIP>

The purpose is to keep you from dropping stuff in. But I've got to 
say, I've never had a problem with oil flow from it. Most modern 
engines that I've seen usually have some sort of metal plate right 
there, that the oil flows around, rather than a screen.

Another nice function is that it's made from cheap plastic that melts 
easily. So, if your engine overheats, that screen melts. And if that 
screen is melted on a car that you look at, then you know that it's 
been overheated at some point in it's life.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"




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Message: 23
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2004 14:47:32 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Water pump replacement

Dave, I don't know if the Car Quest is a new one or a rebuilt one, but I
know I give a 5 year warranty on brand new one and we will also press on a
pulley and back it up. We also have all the hoses silicone and other wise.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com




-----Original Message-----
From: drdhdmd [mailto:doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com]
Sent: Monday, August 30, 2004 6:06 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Water pump replacement


What is the newest info on a water pump replacement?  Are the Car
Quest pumps a good fit?  What about using the bolt on pulley?  Do I
need to buy the special one from DNW?  Lastly, what about replacing
the hoses and the metal pipe in the valley of death?  Is silicone THE
way to go?

Thanks again,

Dave & 6530




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moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

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Message: 24
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2004 14:09:08 -0500
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Re: SIDE STRIPES

The little space on the left rear quarter panel was my fault... I messed up.
There is a deep curve there and you need to stretch the material a little 
and make it fit.
When I did the other side I did it perfect.
I plan to get another peice for the rear, peel it off and do it again to fix 
that.

As far as the cut out letters, we could make one with no letters cut out at 
all.
We thought of a way to put the printed version there, by simply cutting out 
a rectangle
and having the smooth printed peice behind it would work.

However this is just preference, I didn't do it that way to be cheap, I just 
thought
it looked more natural that way and every one I have shown it to agreed.
On most of the original stripes I have seen the paint is faded and coming 
off of the vinyl
and looks cheap in my opinion.

If you can find an original set then go for it.
I might sell the original set I used for testing....make me an offer.

- VB

>From: "p12c16" <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Re: SIDE STRIPES
>Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2004 15:54:08 -0000
>
>Here is my $.02 on VB's stripe,
>          I don't like how the DMC is just cut out and the stainless shows 
>through,
>the original way was much more classy.  The silver DMC with the black
>outlines in the DMC looked very professional on the originals.  2nd, by
>looking at VB's pictures you can see how important it is that the black 
>rubstrips
>down the side MUST be perfectly straight before adding on the sidestripe.  
>On
>VB's car you can see how the rear quarterpanel's stripe doesn't line up 
>exactly
>with the door.  The same goes for the front.  It makes the stripe look 
>crooked in
>places.  I am very picky about my D looking perfect, and the little things 
>like
>this would bug me on my car.
>
>Patrick
>1880
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 25
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2004 14:45:27 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Water pump replacement



-----Original Message-----
From: drdhdmd [mailto:doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com]
Sent: Monday, August 30, 2004 6:06 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Water pump replacement


What is the newest info on a water pump replacement?  Are the Car
Quest pumps a good fit?  What about using the bolt on pulley?  Do I
need to buy the special one from DNW?  Lastly, what about replacing
the hoses and the metal pipe in the valley of death?  Is silicone THE
way to go?

Thanks again,

Dave & 6530




To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Yahoo! Groups Links









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
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