From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2204
Date: Wednesday, September 01, 2004 4:11 AM

There are 20 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: eBay Water Pumps, etc
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

2. Re: shift boot and e-brake boot vendor
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. Re: shift boot and e-brake boot vendor
From: "lakelanier20" <derek4567_at_dml_hotmail.com>

4. Power Window Removal
From: "EJ Chambers" <marmieej_at_dml_yahoo.com>

5. Shipping a car - USA -> Europe
From: "Tom" <tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl>

6. Clutch replacement procecure
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>

7. Re: Re: shift boot and e-brake boot vendor
From: kevin creason <kcreason77_at_dml_yahoo.com>

8. T-Pannel Removal
From: "gjl463" <gjlednicky_at_dml_comcast.net>

9. Re: Clutch replacement procedure
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>

10. Re: Clutch replacement procecure
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

11. Re: Shipping a car - USA -> Europe
From: Thomas Mc Auley <dmc4087_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>

12. Re: T-Pannel Removal
From: "azman3us" <azman3us_at_dml_yahoo.com>

13. Auto trans inhibitor
From: Thomas Mc Auley <dmc4087_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>

14. Re: Clutch replacement procedure
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

15. Re: Next Weekend
From: <docrth_at_dml_verizon.net>

16. My car won't start
From: "eremhcel" <dmcfive0_at_dml_aol.com>

17. Leather Shift Boot Seams?
From: "Stephen Card" <stephen_at_dml_procomroofing.com>

18. Re: 4th Angle Drive
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

19. Frame Replacement-Anyone Up For Saving A DeLorean?
From: "Michael & Denise" <luckeys71_at_dml_cox.net>

20. Door Locks Locking Up?
From: "Robert Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2004 03:04:07 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: eBay Water Pumps, etc

I only mention drilling & tapping because 2 of the 3 pumps I've
purchased off eBay came that way (better for my particular engine
BTW). They were advertised as "Volvo water pumps" -- no specific model
years or applications. A proper parts house pump should of course come
ready to install (open the box and look at it before you take it to
the cash register. If it isn't correct, simply don't buy it!)

If you're saavy some real bargains can be had on eBay. Rather than
repair my leaking A/C compressor, I picked up a brand new in the box
Sanden 510 for less than $100 (word to the wise: most bidders are
looking for SD 508's, thus lowering our competition). Bought a new
Series 038 CPR for $75. The engine now in my car came new from the
factory, complete on a pallet, for $500. Bought a running B27, also
complete, for $50. Etc.

I think most eBay bidders err by not asking questions or requesting
additional pics. If you're concerned about a water pump thermal time
switch port, get the seller to photograph it from that angle! Get a
pic of the impeller while you're at it to ensure the pump isn't right
handed.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Not everyone on the list is a good amateur machinist. Or even a bad 
> one. 
> 
> Considering that a Volvo place will probably charge $700 for this job 
> AND screw up your car, the ability to single-source the parts, 
> get "free" advice, and do it yourself is probably worth it to a 
> significant portion of the group, and they will still save money. 
> 
> To many people the ability to open the box and put the thing on vs. 
> spending all day driving around, drilling and tapping, and then 
> coming up short some obscure gasket on a Saturday evening, is worth 
> it. The difference between a $30 pump and a $130 pump could easily be 
> more than $100 of someone's time. It depends on what you mean my 
> significant.
> 
> I have done it the "parts store way" and will probably do it that way 
> in the future, but I also realize that quite a few of the folks out 
> there don't have the time or skills (or patience!) to go that route. 
> 
> Dave S. 
> 





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2004 07:38:18 -0000
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: shift boot and e-brake boot vendor

The e-brake cover does look nice I must say.

Joe OBrien

2524 & 16634





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2004 13:09:15 -0000
From: "lakelanier20" <derek4567_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: shift boot and e-brake boot vendor

Is the e-brake boot that they sell just the leather part in the 
photos on their website?  Is the original rubber handle/cover still 
on there?  Meaning, does the boot they sell slide over the original 
rubber cover?

-Derek L
VIN 5302



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:
> The e-brake cover does look nice I must say.
> 
> Joe OBrien
> 
> 2524 & 16634




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2004 13:54:29 -0000
From: "EJ Chambers" <marmieej_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Power Window Removal

I have my door panels currently torn off doing some work. It got me
wondering how does the power window mirror come out of the door if it
needs to be replaced?

Thanks!
Ej




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2004 18:56:21 +0200
From: "Tom" <tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl>
Subject: Shipping a car - USA -> Europe

Hello!

I am about to ship my car to Europe and I'd like to ask if somebody would 
recommend a reliable and inexpensive shipping company. I know that there is 
a lot of them out there, but I'd like to go with one that was tried out 
before.
Any happy customers? Let me know.

Tom Niemczewski
tomcio_at_dml_gtemail.net
VIN 6149
Save the dream so you can live the dream...




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2004 16:34:03 -0000
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>
Subject: Clutch replacement procecure

Hello,

I'll be replacing my clutch next weekend (PJ Grady's complete
Centerforce clutch kit), and need a basic procedure on how to do it.
I've never done this before. For that matter, I don't even know
exactly where the pressure plate, etc, is located, let alone how to
get to it and what to do once I've got it apart.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

-Ryan




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2004 09:31:42 -0700 (PDT)
From: kevin creason <kcreason77_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: shift boot and e-brake boot vendor

Exactly, the leather part only, and it slides over the
rubber piece.
So, if your rubber piece is very trashed all the way
up through the hand area, it won't help a whole lot.


--- lakelanier20 <derek4567_at_dml_hotmail.com> wrote:

> Is the e-brake boot that they sell just the leather
> part in the 
> photos on their website?  Is the original rubber
> handle/cover still 
> on there?  Meaning, does the boot they sell slide
> over the original 
> rubber cover?
> 
> -Derek L
> VIN 5302
> 
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Joe OBrien"
> <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_y...> 
> wrote:
> > The e-brake cover does look nice I must say.
> > 
> > Joe OBrien
> > 
> > 2524 & 16634
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
>     dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> 
>  
> 
> 


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2004 17:25:23 -0000
From: "gjl463" <gjlednicky_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: T-Pannel Removal

I just removed my T-pannel to check things out while I'm re-painting 
the windshield header and it appeared that the T-pannel was secured 
to the body with some sort of thick double-sided tape.  In some 
spots the tape was layered thicker to create a higher resting 
position to the body.  It looks like it was meant to be done this 
way to help level the panel to the body and match height to the 
doors and especially the front header.  Is this a correct 
assumption?  Does anyone know what type of tape can be used to 
replace it with?  Looks like a half-inch black double-sided 
weatherstrip tape. (note: this is not the same tape that covers the 
electrical compartment)




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2004 21:04:09 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>
Subject: Re: Clutch replacement procedure

Ryan,

Hopefully you either already owned or recently purchased Delorean
manuals from PJ Grady with your clutch kit.  If you do not have a
workshop manual or at least the technical information manual with
the parts manual, the first suggestion is to buy a set.

http://www.pjgrady.com/lgspec.asp?id=12

Next, read up on manual transmission related work on the DMC News
website, under the Technical Information section.  Although there
is no clutch replacement document, the document on the removal of
the manual transmission from the car is a good start.

http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/manualtrans.htm

The next piece of advice is to have a second person there to help
whether you do this work on a lift or while on jack stands.

It is also a good idea to plan to change other items in the clutch
system such as the clutch slave while the transmission is out.  It
is a good habit to change the clutch master and the clutch slave
at the same time, since one new unit is likely to cause the other
older unit to leak within the first 1,000 miles after the work.
Make sure you have a stainless steel braided clutch line installed
on your existing clutch system.  If you still have the original
black plastic clutch line, now is the time to replace it.

I highly recommend that you try to perform this work with another
Delorean person who has done a clutch job before.  Plan to remove
and resurface the flywheel if it has any hint of grooves in the
surface.  Many NAPA stores have this service in-house.

Do not under-estimate the time it will take to do this job.  If all
goes well, you may be able to finish in one day at a leasurely pace.

Later,
Rich W.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_r...> wrote:
> Hello,
> 
> I'll be replacing my clutch next weekend (PJ Grady's complete
> Centerforce clutch kit), and need a basic procedure on how to do 
it.
> I've never done this before. For that matter, I don't even know
> exactly where the pressure plate, etc, is located, let alone how to
> get to it and what to do once I've got it apart.
> 
> Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> -Ryan




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2004 22:04:46 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Clutch replacement procecure

First & foremost -- unlike a domestic transmission, the bellhousing
bolts do NOT hold it in alignment. There's a surprising amount of play
within their holes (from the factory). If you try to use the bolts to
remate the transmission, you will NOT come at the engine at a proper
angle. Input shaft splines will be too low, and will bind in the
clutch disc. This is the voice of experience talking. The splines are
so small that you'll bend and deform them without even feeling it. Is
*VERY* different from a 10 spline American transmission.

I recommend jacking the car up level (all 4 wheels off the ground).
Transmission MUST be mated ALL THE WAY to the block by hand only. Is
too hard to do that at an angle.

I repeat: do not install the mounting bolts until bellhousing is flush
with the engine.

BTW: transmission is held in alignment by two roll pins just outside
the top mounting bolts. Make sure they're in place...

You'll probably end up removing the exhaust crossover pipe during this
procedure. Do yourself a favor when reinstalling it and use stainless
nuts! Will then be very easy to remove it in the future to change
ignition cap & rotor, vacuum lines, heater core shutoff valve, etc
(everything that DeLo owners complain about "being hidden" is easily
accessed from below).

I'd recommend replacing the slave cylinder while you're under there.
My fittings were frozen together. Rather than damage the hard steel
line, I removed the cylinder with it still attached. Spun the new
cylinder onto it on the workbench and reinstalled as a unit. Bleeding
the clutch hydraulics is still easier from above (due to angle of the
bleeder screw).

Here's a thought: replacing the gear oil is super easy while the
transmission is on the ground. Simply pull the bellhousing off, tip it
up to drain it, then refill straight from the gallon jug. Note: unlike
an American unit, the bellhousing *IS* the front of the transmission.
Do not pull it off level or you'll end up with gear oil all over the
driveway (voice of experience talking).

The flywheel bolts are not symmetrical. Scrib a orientation mark on it
before removing to avoid playing "guess the bolt pattern" during
reinstallation.

Have you replaced your trailing arm bolts yet? Perfect time to do so
would be while the transmission is out of the car.

As you're ordering parts, get:
- New bushings for the shift lever
- Rear main oil seal *AND* a gasket for the plate that holds it

Oh -- almost forgot the 8mm Bolt From Hell! You'll recognize it when
you reach up and feel it (can't see it...). It's one of the upper ones
that holds the triangular shift cable bracket to the transmission. Can
*NOT* be approached directly with a socket extension. After screwing
around blind with a universal, discovered the obvious solution: Shift
cable is held by two brackets with horseshoe shaped openings for the
cable. Unfortunately the cable is too big to fit through those
openings. Since they're opposed to one another, the openings can be
enlarged and the cable will still be held 360 degrees. Allows you to
attach the triangular bracket while the transmission is still on the
ground. After it's back in the car, simply slip the shift cable
through the enlarged opening and secure from below with the other
bracket. Too easy.

Replacing a DeLo clutch is certainly within the realm of most owners,
but differs significantly from an American clutch. Thus you'll have to
ignore advice from GM and Ford (and Chrysler) owners in lieu of the
List. Following domestic procedures *WILL* get you into trouble. This
is the voice of experience talking...

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_r...> wrote:
> Hello,
> 
> I'll be replacing my clutch next weekend (PJ Grady's complete
> Centerforce clutch kit), and need a basic procedure on how to do it.
> I've never done this before. For that matter, I don't even know
> exactly where the pressure plate, etc, is located, let alone how to
> get to it and what to do once I've got it apart.
> 
> Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> -Ryan




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2004 22:04:55 +0100 (BST)
From: Thomas Mc Auley <dmc4087_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Shipping a car - USA -> Europe


Use Transcar! I got my De Lorean from Texas to here in Belfast, Northern Ireland for around $2000.

All the best

Thomas


		
---------------------------------
 ALL-NEW Yahoo! Messenger - all new features - even more fun!  

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2004 22:05:15 -0000
From: "azman3us" <azman3us_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: T-Pannel Removal

Most auto stores carry 3M Molding tape - this tape is from the VHB 
family (has a red liner) you can also stack the tape.  As all 
attachment tape jobs you MUST have a clean surface to work with, as 
oil, dirt etc will cause the tape to fail.  As a tip when 
instructions call for the use of rubbing alcohol do not use the 70% 
mixture, as the other 30% is water, look for the 100% or 90% 
products.  As I have never removed a T panel not sure of the way it 
is installed - the tape sounds fishy Can any one else speak to this?

Randal 



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "gjl463" <gjlednicky_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> I just removed my T-pannel to check things out while I'm re-
painting 
> the windshield header and it appeared that the T-pannel was secured 
> to the body with some sort of thick double-sided tape.  In some 
> spots the tape was layered thicker to create a higher resting 
> position to the body.  It looks like it was meant to be done this 
> way to help level the panel to the body and match height to the 
> doors and especially the front header.  Is this a correct 
> assumption?  Does anyone know what type of tape can be used to 
> replace it with?  Looks like a half-inch black double-sided 
> weatherstrip tape. (note: this is not the same tape that covers the 
> electrical compartment)




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2004 22:07:54 +0100 (BST)
From: Thomas Mc Auley <dmc4087_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Auto trans inhibitor

Ok David/Dave, I had the oil pan from the bottom of the gearbox off to have a lookie underneath. The linkage seems fine, when the car is in park or neutral, the inhibitor switch is pressed down by the metal thing attached to the linkage rods.
How exactly do I jump the starter inhibit relay? All the connections are clean and tight. 
 
Thanks guys, I appreciate all your help!
Thomas
Vin 4087

		
---------------------------------
 ALL-NEW Yahoo! Messenger - all new features - even more fun!  

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Wed, 01 Sep 2004 00:44:34 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Clutch replacement procedure

You should also have a clutch alignment tool. It will make the
reinstallation of the transmission MUCH easier. A floor jack would be
nice too. That way you can let the trans down on it and use it to put
it back in. A lot easier than trying to lift it up while on your back.
Take the oil out of the trans so you don't spill it all over yourself.
You can refill with fresh when you put it back in.
While you have the trans out you may want to change some of the seals
on it if they are leaking and replace the roll pin. When you get it
all back together you should go over all the shifter adjustments and
lubricate the linkage. Be careful, it is real easy to damage your
fingers working with heavy parts. Don't force anything. If it doesn't
come apart easily you may have missed removing a bolt so work slowly
and carefuly.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 


-- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_o...> wrote:
> Ryan,
> 





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2004 17:29:48 -0500
From: <docrth_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Next Weekend

Where are all these places?
DocRTH
StPete,FL
> 
> From: deloreanss_at_dml_aol.com
> Date: 2004/08/30 Mon PM 06:26:05 CDT
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DML] Next Weekend
> 
> Hey all in the Southeast, it's only 12 days until the first MidSouth DeLorean 
> Motor Club meet at Tapoco Lodge. If you haven't heard about it, we're driving 
> the Dragon, of course, and then Sunday morning we're driving a new venue, the 
> Cherohala Skyway. The lodge we are staying at is conveniently located between 
> the two, really a get away. If you are looking for something to do with your 
> DeLorean, we encourage you to join us. If you can't make the Saturday trip, 
> you are welcome to meet up with us at the lodge Sunday morning. In all 
> likelyhood, we won't leave the lodge until between 9-10 am. Email me offlist for 
> directions. 
> 
> Also, if you are a MSDMC member (and if not, you should be, www.msdmc.com) 
> don't forget that we have a discussion board. Log on and talk about the upcoming 
> events. Only about six weeks until Eurofest!
> 
> John Weaver
> MSDMC
> RED DMC 10527
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
>  
> 
> 




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Wed, 01 Sep 2004 00:44:40 -0000
From: "eremhcel" <dmcfive0_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: My car won't start

On Monady night, I was running my car and thought I could smooth out 
the idle a little by playing with the mixture screw. I turned the 
screw a little both ways and while doing that the engine would shake 
and want to die. I turned the screw back and it recovered from dying, 
then when I tried to smooth it out, it started shaking again then 
died before I could turn the screw back. Now the car won't start. I 
tried a few times later on because it seemed like the engine was 
getting flooded. I tried to start it after sitting over night and a 
few other times and it will start for a second then stall out. I have 
the battery on a charger because I could see the volts going low from 
cranking the engine, so after the battery is charged up I'll try 
starting it again. Does it sound like it's not starting because the 
battery was low, or because I turned the mixture screw too much? It 
always started before I played around with the mixture screw. Any 
help, suggestions greatly appreciated! 
Thanks in advance,
Mike
5623




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Wed, 01 Sep 2004 01:16:04 -0000
From: "Stephen Card" <stephen_at_dml_procomroofing.com>
Subject: Leather Shift Boot Seams?

Does anyone know why there is an additional seam in the back of the 
leather shift boot? Was it done just for "looks"?
Thanks,
Stephen
Vin 3601




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2004 21:19:30 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: 4th Angle Drive

In a message dated 8/29/04 7:29:04 PM Central Daylight Time, 
videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com writes:


> This last unit was noticablly off center and wobbly.
> It lasted around the block, when I backed in the driveway it snapped.
> 
> Is there a solution?
> - Videobob
> VIN#5278
> 

Videobob,

your problems are not common and there is apparently a problem on your end 
that needs to be resolved.  i am surprised DMC Houston has been so helpful to 
keep replacing them when there is obviously another problem.  something is 
definitely hanging up, causing extra stress on the whole system.  

have you replaced the lower speedo cable with the updated shorter version? 
have you installed the guide bracket that goes on the steering knuckle? have you 
opened up your lambda counter to check for mashed up gears?   maybe there is 
a problem with your installation technique?

Don't blame the angle drive - if the drives really were THAT bad, you 
wouldn't be the only one blowing them up.  there is something on your side that isn't 
right.

Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2004 20:55:15 -0400
From: "Michael & Denise" <luckeys71_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Frame Replacement-Anyone Up For Saving A DeLorean?

Hi gang,
  After replacing the slave cylinder last week with a big assist from Dave Sontos I decided to buy a frame listed on eBay in the hopes of saving my rusted car.  The problem lies in the fact that I do not have the technical capabilities or the tools to do this so I thought I'd consult with the group here to see if the possibility exists of assembling a team to try and accomplish this.  There are many small issues to work out but if this can be done I would be happy to have folks stay with my here in Newport News, Va. for however many weekends would be needed or pay for accommodations at our area hotels.  This is a big project to undertake and I honestly don't know if it can be pulled off but I felt I should at least try.  All kinds of things would probably need to be replaced when disassembling the vehicle (brake lines, coolant lines, etc.) so anyone with any suggestions on things to look for or replace I would appreciate it.  As Dave Sontos can attest to the frame is pretty much shot but the car runs strong and the interior and exterior are in fairly nice shape which makes me feel like this is worth a shot.  So tell me honestly guys am I dreaming or can this actually be done?  Any and all input is appreciated as I've already learned so much from this list it's unbelievable.
Thanks for listening and I hope to hear some of your thoughts,
Mike
rusty frame #3760


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Wed, 01 Sep 2004 01:31:21 -0000
From: "Robert Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Door Locks Locking Up?

Your door seals have you locked in.
Read more to find out what I mean......

Many of us have suffered from frozen door locks.
My drivers side door has always worked fine, but the passenger door
from time to time would sometimes lock, and would need to be flipped
back and forth a few times before you could get it.
I thought that $440 on a Lock-ZILLA with a remote would have solved
the problem but it had no effect.
All it did was lock me out from remote!

This time it locked up good.
I haven't been able to get in the passenger side for weeks.
Today I had to do something about it.
So from the inside I began to rip the door apart.
After messing with for a while it magicly opened.

I assumed, like most of you that the problem was the solonoid,
so I took it out to clean it...but it seemed fine, operated smooth
and seemed to be strong.
It worked strong and quick LOCKING, but UNlocking it sometimes
it would not budge. Even if you dissconnected the ZILLA box and tried
to push it with your thumb it was stuck and would not move.

Well I am here to tell you that after I pulled the solonoid, all the
rods and linkages, and the door latches out and cleaned them with WD40
and then relubed them with silicone and put everything back
together....... NOTHING HAPPENED. It was still doing the same crap!

So I did some major investigation on the door latches and figured out
how they work. I notived that unless the latch was all the way in the
closed position that the mechanism would not allow itself to move
into the UNLOCKED position, or rather allow the door handle rod
linkage to catch the latch release.
With this knowledge being truth, it MUST mean that the reason the door
locks are malfunctioning is because my door is not closed all the way
or at least the latch has not been forced all the way inside by the
striker and the door is being held tight my the rubber door seals just
enough to keep it closed.

Long story short, after making some adjustments to move the striker
pins UP and OUT (about the 10:00 position) the door latches TIGHTER
than it did before and the locks work smoothly in either direction.

YEEAAAAHHHH!!!!

But how did this happen in the first place?
Ok, all of us know what it is like to give someone a ride for the
first time... when they first attepmt to close the door from the
inside they pull it down a little and it catches but doesn't close all
the way. Usually the front latch catches and the back is hanging
becuase of the position of the door handle.
(this problem was solved with the addition of the pull straps in the
doors) ...now you need to explain to them how to open the door and to
close it harder. This time they turn into the Incredible HULK and slam
it down! Same thing when they get out of the car.
Over time the stricker pins get pushed down a little at a time if they
are tightend down as much as they should be.
The pin is too far down to catch inside the latch all the way.
Another scenerio is that the bone head who owns the car, (that would
be me) decides to make some adjustments to the strikers because the
door is rattling. Why would the door rattle?
Because my cheap ass has not replaced my leaky shredded door seals
and now they are flat and not giving pressure to the door making a
good seal, so the door rattles.... so I just assumed that moving the
pins down a notch would make the door close MORE - WRONG.

So I hope this information will help someone having the same problem.
Sometimes the solution is not to replace parts, but to simply adjust
them. 20 something years can do wonders to a car.

If you have some simular experience with this subject I would love to
hear your thoughts.

Hope this helps!
- Videobob
VIN#5278


 




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
    dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
    http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
 
------------------------------------------------------------------------