From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2205
Date: Wednesday, September 01, 2004 11:50 AM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Exhaust Back pressure
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

2. ? Length of starter bolts?
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_bwig.net>

3. RE: My car won't start
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

4. Re: My car won't start
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

5. Re: Frame Replacement-Anyone Up For Saving A DeLorean?
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

6. Re: My car won't start
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

7. Re: Re: T-Pannel Removal
From: Todd Nelson <tan5732_at_dml_rit.edu>

8. RE: water pump replacement
From: "darryl" <darryl_at_dml_techline.com>

9. Re: My car won't start
From: Todd Nelson <tan5732_at_dml_rit.edu>

10. Fascia paint
From: nicholden_at_dml_yahoo.com

11. Re: Shipping a car - USA -> Europe
From: "Mike" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>

12. Re: Door Locks Locking Up?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

13. Re: My car won't start
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

14. Re: Fascia paint
From: Thomas Mc Auley <dmc4087_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>

15. Re: T-Pannel Removal
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

16. Re: Exhaust Back pressure
From: "Mike Walsh" <yahoo_at_dml_oneskydojo.com>

17. Re: Fascia paint
From: Rod Dillman <rhdillman_at_dml_yahoo.com>

18. Monster Garage, Monster Nation 1 re-play
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>

19. Re: Exhaust Back pressure
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

20. Re: Re: T-Pannel Removal
From: Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

21. Re: My car won't start
From: Noah <sitz_at_dml_onastick.net>

22. Re: Frame Replacement-Anyone Up For Saving A DeLorean?
From: Noah <sitz_at_dml_onastick.net>

23. Microswitch (:was automatic inhibitor switch)
From: Thomas Mc Auley <dmc4087_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>

24. Sloppy doors; Was: Door Locks Locking Up?
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

25. Re: Darryl Tinnerstet's Water Pump Pulley
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>





Message: 1
Date: Wed, 01 Sep 2004 02:24:11 -0000
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Exhaust Back pressure

I am wondering if there is any back pressure specifications the PRV-6
requires? I've been running a straight pipe (no cat or muffler) for
quie some time and don't really see that much of a performance gain.
Am I doing damage? Thanks -Dani B. 5003




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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2004 21:26:50 -0500
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_bwig.net>
Subject: ? Length of starter bolts?

What is the length of the starter bolts (3)?

The bolts are M8x1.25x?

Help!  I took my starter off a while back and stored the 3 mounting bolts in
a very secure location.  If only I could remember where:-(

I was hoping to get the starter and coolant leak fixed for the Sept 12th MN
DeLorean get together.

Thanks in advance,
Nick Kemp




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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2004 21:43:48 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: My car won't start

Mike,
You need to adjust the 02 / Mixture screw only when a new 02 sensor has been
replaced and the car is ( Hot ). If you don't have a new 02 sensor then your
adjusting to an old one can take it to far out of adjustment rich or lean. I
also recommend that you put the 3mm long handle wrench in the hold until you
can feel it set in the hex head and turn it in small baby steps and not
taking it out as to loose your clock position.
Hope this helps if it's not to late.
You could have a low spark situation or plugs are gas fouled.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com




-----Original Message-----
From: eremhcel [mailto:dmcfive0_at_dml_aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, August 31, 2004 6:45 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] My car won't start



On Monady night, I was running my car and thought I could smooth out
the idle a little by playing with the mixture screw. I turned the
screw a little both ways and while doing that the engine would shake
and want to die. I turned the screw back and it recovered from dying,
then when I tried to smooth it out, it started shaking again then
died before I could turn the screw back. Now the car won't start. I
tried a few times later on because it seemed like the engine was
getting flooded. I tried to start it after sitting over night and a
few other times and it will start for a second then stall out. I have
the battery on a charger because I could see the volts going low from
cranking the engine, so after the battery is charged up I'll try
starting it again. Does it sound like it's not starting because the
battery was low, or because I turned the mixture screw too much? It
always started before I played around with the mixture screw. Any
help, suggestions greatly appreciated!
Thanks in advance,
Mike
5623




To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2004 22:49:23 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: My car won't start

In a message dated 8/31/04 9:08:22 PM Central Daylight Time, dmcfive0_at_dml_aol.com 
writes:


> Does it sound like it's not starting because the 
> battery was low, or because I turned the mixture screw too much? It 
> always started before I played around with the mixture screw. Any 
> help, suggestions greatly appreciated! 
> Thanks in advance,
> Mike
> 5623

Mike,

Lucky for you, you only have two variables here.  the mixture screw is 
definitely part of the problem since it died, then failed to restart.  before you go 
'fixing' things again (LOL) you need a fully charged battery. put it on a 
slow charger all night long, then try adjusting the screw again.  the screw is 
very sensitive to changes and it doesn't take much between a car running and one 
that's not, and there is a very fine point where the car will run REALLY well 
(actually, the stoichiometric ratio is a little off from maximum power OR 
maximum economy, but i bet you are looking for an even-sounding idle (a feat in 
itself).  my guess is you have the car running too lean.  try turning the idle 
screw clockwise about 15 degrees, replace the rubber CO plug (if you don't, 
that's a big vacuum leak) and try starting the car. don't keep cranking on it. 
it won't start but it will wear down your battery.  try turning the screw 15 
deg again. replace plug and try to start.  once you get it running, you can 
either attempt to tune it by ear, or a better idea is to use a dwell meter to 
check the frequency valve duty cycle, thereby inferring the CO level.  

since you were adjusting the screw in the first place, i am guessing you have 
more problems then a screw out of adjustment.  when you get it running again, 
you should spend a few bucks and do a full ignition tune up, fuel system tune 
up, replace air filter if dirty, check timing, and check all of your vacuum 
hoses for correct routing.  better yet, replace them all if they are dry or 
cracked.  try this revealing test also - turn the key into the 'on' position, and 
go back to the engine.  turn the throttle spool as if you were accelerating, 
then slowly let it go back again.  you should hear two distinct 'click' 
sounds.  the first is the idle speed microswitch being tripped by the throttle 
hammer at the end of the linkage (which is what tells the idle speed motor to begin 
metering air to the engine since the butterfly plates are closed) and the 
other click can be heard at the back of the engine between the fuel distributer 
and the firewall.  that little canister with vacuum lines and an electrical 
connector is the ignition advance solenoid/canister.  this solenoid determines if 
the ignition recieves vacuum advance.  if it doesn't click, you may have 
advance at inappropriate times.  only after EVERYTHING is verified correct and is 
brand new (if a disposable part), should you try to set the CO screw.  many 
people try to turn this screw as a 'magic idle fixer' when in reality the 
problem is a simple crack in a hose or whatever.

good luck,
Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 01 Sep 2004 02:40:21 -0000
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Frame Replacement-Anyone Up For Saving A DeLorean?

If I didn't live so far and didn't have college- I would help you.
This procedure can be difficult and time consuming if you're doing
this for the first time-but if you have others who've done this before
to help then you will be in good shape. It will take some time, and
you will need usual tools
(socket sets, open end wrenches, etc) as well as floor jacks for
actually lifting the body off, cement blocks for holding the body up
while the frame is out, and engine removal hoists or etc. I can remove
my frame myself in just about 2 hours, so if you have a few people
helping you it should be a breeze. Once the frame is out of course
take a glance over all your lines-fuel, brake, and coolant. Of course
if they look leaky or look badly rusted (bend them by hand to see if
they are week in the rusted areas) then replace them. Stainless
braided clutch line is a great thing to install at this point if you
don't have one. Nonetheless, if you can get a few people who can bring
the necessary tools, then this should be no problem. I've taken my
frame out numerious times and had to even do a graft of the front
section of my frame so if you have any specific questions or just want
further help-feel free to contact me off list I'd be happy to assist.
Dani B-5003


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Michael & Denise" <luckeys71_at_dml_c...>
wrote:
> Hi gang,
>   After replacing the slave cylinder last week with a big assist
from Dave Sontos I decided to buy a frame listed on eBay in the hopes
of saving my rusted car.  The problem lies in the fact that I do not
have the technical capabilities or the tools to do this so I thought
I'd consult with the group here to see if the possibility exists of
assembling a team to try and accomplish this.  There are many small
issues to work out but if this can be done I would be happy to have
folks stay with my here in Newport News, Va. for however many weekends
would be needed or pay for accommodations at our area hotels.  This is
a big project to undertake and I honestly don't know if it can be
pulled off but I felt I should at least try.  All kinds of things
would probably need to be replaced when disassembling the vehicle
(brake lines, coolant lines, etc.) so anyone with any suggestions on
things to look for or replace I would appreciate it.  As Dave Sontos
can attest to the frame is pretty much shot but the car runs strong
and the interior and exterior are in fairly nice shape which makes me
feel like this is worth a shot.  So tell me honestly guys am I
dreaming or can this actually be done?  Any and all input is
appreciated as I've already learned so much from this list it's
unbelievable.
> Thanks for listening and I hope to hear some of your thoughts,
> Mike
> rusty frame #3760
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 01 Sep 2004 03:11:59 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: My car won't start

You may have fouled the spark plugs. Did you cover the hole up after
you messed with the mixture screw? If you didn't it would never idle
right. Pull the plugs and clean and regap them. Charge up the battery
and put the mixture screw back where you started. Plug the hole over
it in the housing. This should get you going again. You CANNOT fix the
idle up by adjusting the mixture screw. If the idle is not right then
you usually need to replace ignition parts and/or find and fix vacuum
leaks. Make sure the 3 brass screws are closed too.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757  


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "eremhcel" <dmcfive0_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> On Monady night, I was running my car and thought I could smooth out 
> the idle a little by playing with the mixture screw. I turned the 
> screw a little both ways and while doing that the engine would shake 
> and want to die. I turned the screw back and it recovered from dying, 
> then when I tried to smooth it out, it started shaking again then 
> died before I could turn the screw back. Now the car won't start. I 
> tried a few times later on because it seemed like the engine was 
> 




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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2004 23:15:38 -0400
From: Todd Nelson <tan5732_at_dml_rit.edu>
Subject: Re: Re: T-Pannel Removal

The mounting tape installation method does not sound right to me.  I was 
under the impression that all panels were fastened using a simple bolt down 
method that ensured easy removal for minor repairs.  I would go to 
delorean.com and look under their online store, then open the "frame and 
body" section.  Click on the area of the car that best fits your T-panel 
(most likely the roof section).  Look at the diagrams that they include they 
are very descriptive and would give you exact part numbers for original 
parts.  Delorean.com is based out of Houston which is where all of the spare 
parts from Dunmurry were shipped to when the factory shut down.  So you know 
you are going to get original parts.  I would guess that you are not the 
original owner of the car and that the previous owner made a "quick-fix".  I 
would without a doubt get the right part if you have already gone through 
the trouble of taking it all apart.

Todd
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "azman3us" <azman3us_at_dml_yahoo.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 31, 2004 6:05 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: T-Pannel Removal


> Most auto stores carry 3M Molding tape - this tape is from the VHB
> family (has a red liner) you can also stack the tape.  As all
> attachment tape jobs you MUST have a clean surface to work with, as
> oil, dirt etc will cause the tape to fail.  As a tip when
> instructions call for the use of rubbing alcohol do not use the 70%
> mixture, as the other 30% is water, look for the 100% or 90%
> products.  As I have never removed a T panel not sure of the way it
> is installed - the tape sounds fishy Can any one else speak to this?
>
> Randal
>
>
>
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "gjl463" <gjlednicky_at_dml_c...> wrote:
>> I just removed my T-pannel to check things out while I'm re-
> painting
>> the windshield header and it appeared that the T-pannel was secured
>> to the body with some sort of thick double-sided tape.  In some
>> spots the tape was layered thicker to create a higher resting
>> position to the body.  It looks like it was meant to be done this
>> way to help level the panel to the body and match height to the
>> doors and especially the front header.  Is this a correct
>> assumption?  Does anyone know what type of tape can be used to
>> replace it with?  Looks like a half-inch black double-sided
>> weatherstrip tape. (note: this is not the same tape that covers the
>> electrical compartment)
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
> 




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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2004 23:02:41 -0700
From: "darryl" <darryl_at_dml_techline.com>
Subject: RE: water pump replacement

"What about using the bolt on pulley?  Do I need to buy the special one from DNW?" 

To clear this up a little - at the time I designed the aluminum bolt-on water pump pulley, nearly 18 years ago, DeLorean water pumps were being sold for $240 without a pressed-on pulley and with no warranty.  You had to remove the pulley and re-install it yourself, often ruining it (and new ones were not available).  At the same time you could go to the closest auto parts store and get the identical pump, only with a bolt flange for a bolt-on pulley, for $90 - $130, usually with a lifetime warranty.  (There is no flange to be pressed on, it's already there; there are no holes to tap, its the right pump.)  I just took a stock DMC pump with the pulley on it and had new bolt-on billet aluminum pulleys made that had the identical diameter and offset as DMC used.  That way the customer had the option of purchasing a genuine DMC pump, or getting a pulley and locally sourcing a Volvo-type pump with a better warranty.

Today the market may have changed and replacement pumps may be available from the vendors with the pulley pressed on.  But if you want something a little different, and less expensive, check these hand-crafted beauties out.  They are now available from DeLorean Parts Northwest at www.delorean-parts.com.


Darryl Tinnerstet
(formerly Specialty Automotive)
McCleary, WA
(still lurking, so watch what you say...)




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2004 23:38:18 -0400
From: Todd Nelson <tan5732_at_dml_rit.edu>
Subject: Re: My car won't start

Try getting the Bosch K-Jetronic info sheet from the following location...

http://labwww.csv.cmich.edu/luke/auto/delorean/repair/hezekiel/bosch.htm

** Note- the last time I checked the above page was gone, so not guarantees.
This has a lot of good info on the fuel injection / mixture adjustments in 
deloreans, which sounds like whats throwing off your starting.
Bosch also made a service manual just for this injection system, back when 
it was still used, you might see if you can find one of those.

Todd


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "eremhcel" <dmcfive0_at_dml_aol.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 31, 2004 8:44 PM
Subject: [DML] My car won't start


>
> On Monady night, I was running my car and thought I could smooth out
> the idle a little by playing with the mixture screw. I turned the
> screw a little both ways and while doing that the engine would shake
> and want to die. I turned the screw back and it recovered from dying,
> then when I tried to smooth it out, it started shaking again then
> died before I could turn the screw back. Now the car won't start. I
> tried a few times later on because it seemed like the engine was
> getting flooded. I tried to start it after sitting over night and a
> few other times and it will start for a second then stall out. I have
> the battery on a charger because I could see the volts going low from
> cranking the engine, so after the battery is charged up I'll try
> starting it again. Does it sound like it's not starting because the
> battery was low, or because I turned the mixture screw too much? It
> always started before I played around with the mixture screw. Any
> help, suggestions greatly appreciated!
> Thanks in advance,
> Mike
> 5623
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 




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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 01 Sep 2004 11:46:16 -0000
From: nicholden_at_dml_yahoo.com
Subject: Fascia paint

Hi, before i re-assemble my car (which is a while off yet!) i am 
going to have all the fascias re-painted. Has anyone ever had them 
painted a silver to try match the stainless as opposed to the 
standard grey/sliver which looks like it was trying to match but 
never quite did. Any photos would be great.

Cheers Nick 10927




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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 01 Sep 2004 07:22:04 -0000
From: "Mike" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Shipping a car - USA -> Europe

Hi

Yes Thomas is right, most if not all of us here in the UK use them 
for our d imports and we have never has a problem with them, in fact 
they pulled out all the stops for me to collect my car and transport 
it to Balltimore to catch the boat in just 2 days!
You 'may' find a cheaper quote but i didint and its reasuring to know 
your new toy is in safe hands!

Website:-

http://www.tgal.us/

Mike
#2001
doc403



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Tom" <tomciodmc_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> Hello!
> 
> I am about to ship my car to Europe and I'd like to ask if somebody 
would 
> recommend a reliable and inexpensive shipping company. I know that 
there is 
> a lot of them out there, but I'd like to go with one that was tried 
out 
> before.
> Any happy customers? Let me know.
> 
> Tom Niemczewski
> tomcio_at_dml_g...
> VIN 6149
> Save the dream so you can live the dream...




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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 01 Sep 2004 03:27:45 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Door Locks Locking Up?

You figured out what I have been trying to tell most people on the
DML. You MUST have the door closed in the "second" latching position.
BOTH LATCHES MUST be in 2nd position to lock. If you try to lock the
door with either latch NOT in 2nd position you bend, stretch, and
force things out of adjustment. The doors are NOT SUPPOSED to be able
to be locked unless you are in 2nd position. If it won't lock easily
it is trying to tell you that. Before you can do the door adjustments
you need to have the doors close properly. You CANNOT compensate for
old, flat door seals by adjusting the locking anchor pins. Lockzilla
says it cannot compensate for out-of-adjustment doors and bad
solenoids so you should have known it would not "fix" your problems.
As you close the door SLOWLY you can hear and feel the latches as they
catch in the first locking position and then (if everything is
adjusted correctly) the 2nd locking position. Slamming the door will
not make it work, in fact that is how you can jam it. The other thing
I see all too often is that the head of the anchor pins hit the door.
This pushes the door foward or back as the case may be making it hard
to open and close the door. The other thing I see is that the door
guides strike the pins. If the pins are adjusted right they should go
right up the middle of the guides and not even touch them. It is a
little tricky to get it right because the doors close in an ARC. It
may take some trial-and-error to get it right but once you get it you
tighten that pin real tight and it won't move.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Robert Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> Your door seals have you locked in.
> Read more to find out what I mean......
> 
> Many of us have suffered from frozen door locks.
> My drivers side door has always worked fine, but the passenger door
> from time to time would sometimes lock, and would need to be flipped
> back and forth a few times before you could get it.
> I thought that $440 on a Lock-ZILLA with a remote would have solved
> the problem but it had no effect.
> All it did was lock me out from remote!
> 
> This time it locked up good.
> I haven't been able to get in the passenger side for weeks.
> Today I had to do something about it.
> So from the inside I began to rip the door apart.





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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 01 Sep 2004 04:40:12 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: My car won't start

See recent Messages #44435 and #44447.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "eremhcel" <dmcfive0_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> On Monady night, I was running my car and thought I could smooth out 
> the idle a little by playing with the mixture screw. I turned the 
> screw a little both ways and while doing that the engine would shake 
> and want to die. I turned the screw back and it recovered from dying, 
> then when I tried to smooth it out, it started shaking again then 
> died before I could turn the screw back. Now the car won't start. I 
> tried a few times later on because it seemed like the engine was 
> getting flooded. I tried to start it after sitting over night and a 
> few other times and it will start for a second then stall out. I have 
> the battery on a charger because I could see the volts going low from 
> cranking the engine, so after the battery is charged up I'll try 
> starting it again. Does it sound like it's not starting because the 
> battery was low, or because I turned the mixture screw too much? It 
> always started before I played around with the mixture screw. Any 
> help, suggestions greatly appreciated! 
> Thanks in advance,
> Mike
> 5623




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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2004 14:35:12 +0100 (BST)
From: Thomas Mc Auley <dmc4087_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Fascia paint

Hi Nick. I didnt do this, but I have seen pictures and I think it looks horrible. You will never be able to match the colour to the stainless steel. Why not keep the car original :-) ?
 
Thomas
Vin 4087

nicholden_at_dml_yahoo.com wrote:
Hi, before i re-assemble my car (which is a while off yet!) i am 
going to have all the fascias re-painted. Has anyone ever had them 
painted a silver to try match the stainless as opposed to the 
standard grey/sliver which looks like it was trying to match but 
never quite did. Any photos would be great.

Cheers Nick 10927




To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
Yahoo! Groups Links






		
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 01 Sep 2004 13:51:30 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: T-Pannel Removal

On the several cars I have seen the "Tee" roof removed I never saw
double-stick tape. Probably a left-over from a dreaded P.O. Towards
the front, by the windshield, there is a piece of foam. It is usually
disintgrated into dust by now. It's purpose is to hold the front of
the "Tee" roof up. When it no longer does that the doors will rub on
the "Tee" roof as they open and close. You can use just about any kind
of foam that will fit. BE VERY CAREFUL OF ALL THE SHARP EDGES ON THE
"Tee" ROOF. After you remove the "Tee" roof remove the plate that is
duct-taped on. Clean out the inside of the roof and replace the plate.
When you reinstall the "Tee" roof try to center it so the gaps on the
doors on the top of the car are even so the doors don't rub the roof.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Todd Nelson <tan5732_at_dml_r...> wrote:
> The mounting tape installation method does not sound right to me.  I
was 
> under the impression that all panels were fastened using a simple
bolt down 
> method that ensured easy removal for minor repairs.  I would go to 





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Message: 16
Date: Wed, 01 Sep 2004 13:13:55 -0000
From: "Mike Walsh" <yahoo_at_dml_oneskydojo.com>
Subject: Re: Exhaust Back pressure

Just out of interest (I am thinking of doing the same thing) are you 
using true duel exauast?

- Mike

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> I am wondering if there is any back pressure specifications the PRV-
6
> requires? I've been running a straight pipe (no cat or muffler) for
> quie some time and don't really see that much of a performance gain.
> Am I doing damage? Thanks -Dani B. 5003




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Message: 17
Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2004 06:57:45 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rod Dillman <rhdillman_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Fascia paint

The previous owner of my first DeLorean painted the front and rear facia a silver color that somewhat matched the stainless color. It looked OK  but I never really liked it because it was far from a perfect match. I am not sure paint could ever be so with stainless. While this is somewhat a  personal preferance issue, I always thought it stood out in a negative way since it clearly was not factory origional. To me it sent the message that it had been painted the "wrong" color. Having said that , I have always wondered why the gray color was chosen origionally since it gives a great deal opf contrast with the matching stainless. Contact me off  group if you would like a photo. I have no digital photos of the car. Rod 10921

nicholden_at_dml_yahoo.com wrote:Hi, before i re-assemble my car (which is a while off yet!) i am 
going to have all the fascias re-painted. Has anyone ever had them 
painted a silver to try match the stainless as opposed to the 
standard grey/sliver which looks like it was trying to match but 
never quite did. Any photos would be great.

Cheers Nick 10927




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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 01 Sep 2004 14:18:28 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>
Subject: Monster Garage, Monster Nation 1 re-play

To those new to the list in the last year or to those
who have not seen the episode yet, a reminder that the
Monster Garage, Monster Nation 1 episode will be on the
Discovery Channel again on Thursday, Sept. 2, 2004 at
9pm and midnight (Central Time).  This is the episode
with the GT40 Rock Crawler (seen at PF show, DCS 2004)
built by a team of Delorean enthusiasts and a few others.
This is known as the "good" Monster Garage show (so far).

As some of you already know, I filmed a Delorean profile
for the upcoming spin-off series form MG, Monster Nation
and that show will be aired sometime this winter.  This
filming also included the "return of the GT40RC", so note
at the end of the Monster Nation 1 show the announcer says
"we won't be seeing this one again" because you will see
this one again in the winter on the Monster Nation series.
No Deloreans we harmed in the filming of Monster Nation.

Later,
Rich W.




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Message: 19
Date: Wed, 01 Sep 2004 14:07:34 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Exhaust Back pressure

In just about all internal combustion engines there is a "magic"
amount of backpressure required. It changes as loads change,
atmospheric pressure, temerature, etc. Straight pipes usually do not
give an increase in power. If they are too short they can allow
ambient air to get near the exhaust valves causing them to fail from
thermal shock. In any case straight pipes are NOISY. In most states if
you do not have a muffler or a cat you cannot pass inspection. I would
at least replace the muffler. You will not get much improvement by
modifying the exhaust unless you also modify the intake.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


-- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> I am wondering if there is any back pressure specifications the PRV-6
> requires? I've been running a straight pipe (no cat or muffler) for
> quie some time and don't really see that much of a performance gain.
> Am I doing damage? Thanks -Dani B. 5003




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Message: 20
Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2004 08:09:11 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Re: T-Pannel Removal

Not so fast, Todd...
 
The T-panel was indeed secured (from the factory) with this tape/padding that the owner described, as well as bolts (ok, actually screws).  The tape/padding is used to set the level of the T-panel, and gives proper alignment so the doors don't hit it.  It is not uncommon to have a previous owner try to replace deteriorated padding with some other material, but it sounds like he's got the original stuff to me.
 
Also, Randall Brown is a 3M employee, and an expert on all 3M products used on the DeLorean  --I would trust him!  :-)
 
Besides, if this owner doesn't know about delorean.com (as well as the other parts sources), the T-panel foam is the least of his worries!
 
For me and 1063,
Jake Kamphoefner


Todd Nelson <tan5732_at_dml_rit.edu> wrote:
The mounting tape installation method does not sound right to me. I was 
under the impression that all panels were fastened using a simple bolt down 
method that ensured easy removal for minor repairs. I would go to 
delorean.com and look under their online store, then open the "frame and 
body" section. Click on the area of the car that best fits your T-panel 
(most likely the roof section). Look at the diagrams that they include they 
are very descriptive and would give you exact part numbers for original 
parts. Delorean.com is based out of Houston which is where all of the spare 
parts from Dunmurry were shipped to when the factory shut down. So you know 
you are going to get original parts. I would guess that you are not the 
original owner of the car and that the previous owner made a "quick-fix". I 
would without a doubt get the right part if you have already gone through 
the trouble of taking it all apart.

Todd
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "azman3us" 
To: 
Sent: Tuesday, August 31, 2004 6:05 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: T-Pannel Removal


> Most auto stores carry 3M Molding tape - this tape is from the VHB
> family (has a red liner) you can also stack the tape. As all
> attachment tape jobs you MUST have a clean surface to work with, as
> oil, dirt etc will cause the tape to fail. As a tip when
> instructions call for the use of rubbing alcohol do not use the 70%
> mixture, as the other 30% is water, look for the 100% or 90%
> products. As I have never removed a T panel not sure of the way it
> is installed - the tape sounds fishy Can any one else speak to this?
>
> Randal
>
>
>
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "gjl463" wrote:
>> I just removed my T-pannel to check things out while I'm re-
> painting
>> the windshield header and it appeared that the T-pannel was secured
>> to the body with some sort of thick double-sided tape. In some
>> spots the tape was layered thicker to create a higher resting
>> position to the body. It looks like it was meant to be done this
>> way to help level the panel to the body and match height to the
>> doors and especially the front header. Is this a correct
>> assumption? Does anyone know what type of tape can be used to
>> replace it with? Looks like a half-inch black double-sided
>> weatherstrip tape. (note: this is not the same tape that covers the
>> electrical compartment)
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 21
Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2004 11:30:10 -0400
From: Noah <sitz_at_dml_onastick.net>
Subject: Re: My car won't start

On Tue, Aug 31, 2004 at 11:38:18PM -0400, Todd Nelson wrote:
> Try getting the Bosch K-Jetronic info sheet from the following location...
> 
> http://labwww.csv.cmich.edu/luke/auto/delorean/repair/hezekiel/bosch.htm

All hail the way-back machine:

http://web.archive.org/web/20040129060251/http://labwww.csv.cmich.edu/luke/auto/delorean/repair/hezekiel/bosch.htm

The image is broken, but the text is there. Also, while trying to hunt
down the image, I ran across the following:

http://web.archive.org/web/20040219190955/http://www.students.tut.fi/~hezekiel/bosch.htm

Which looks like the page your URL was copied from. Also found this:

http://www.auto-solve.com/mech_inj.htm

No warranty as to accuracy of info, YMMV, use only as directed, consult
a physician, do not taunt happy fun ball. =)

Noah "geek" R.
#2867



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Message: 22
Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2004 10:51:08 -0400
From: Noah <sitz_at_dml_onastick.net>
Subject: Re: Frame Replacement-Anyone Up For Saving A DeLorean?

On Tue, Aug 31, 2004 at 08:55:15PM -0400, Michael & Denise wrote:

> The problem lies in the fact that I do not have the technical capabilities or the tools to do this so I thought I'd consult with the group here to see if the possibility exists of assembling a team to try and accomplish this.  

It occurs to me that this would be an *excellent* opportunity for
filming. A project of this magnitude, especially involving someone who,
like most of us, isn't an expert at tearing into the car, would be a
perfect...erm...vehicle (ahem) for a documentary which the rest of us
could use for all sorts of things. There are enough things one needs to
do/check/test when performing a frame swap do answer all sorts of
questions.

Of course, this would also likely increase the chaos in the garage..

Noah "but it'd be damn cool, and I'd pay 30-40 bucks for such a video,
were it done well" Robin

#2867



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Message: 23
Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2004 16:32:26 +0100 (BST)
From: Thomas Mc Auley <dmc4087_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Microswitch (:was automatic inhibitor switch)

Hi lads, where is the microswitch, part number 102785 (the manual is again, rubbish for this)? What does this thing actually do? Would it be causing the problems with the car not cranking?
I got a meter device so I'm going to test a few things now.
 
Thomas
4087

		
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Message: 24
Date: Wed, 01 Sep 2004 14:26:39 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Sloppy doors; Was: Door Locks Locking Up?

Dave T,

I have noticed that my doors, (driver's especially) "shake" when I 
drive over bumps. I even noticed my "door ajar" light briefly come on 
when taking a hard, right curve. The door is completely latched and 
lines up perfectly with the rest of the body when shut. The door 
latches as you described below. It should, you adjusted it for me at 
the Spring Social. ;-)

Is this a case of flat seals, or should the striker pins be moved in-
ward just a bit?

Thanks,
Rich A.
#5335

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> 
wrote:
> You figured out what I have been trying to tell most people on the
> DML. You MUST have the door closed in the "second" latching 
position.
> BOTH LATCHES MUST be in 2nd position to lock. If you try to lock the
> door with either latch NOT in 2nd position you bend, stretch, and
> force things out of adjustment. The doors are NOT SUPPOSED to be 
able
> to be locked unless you are in 2nd position. If it won't lock easily
> it is trying to tell you that. Before you can do the door 
adjustments
> you need to have the doors close properly. You CANNOT compensate for
> old, flat door seals by adjusting the locking anchor pins. Lockzilla
> says it cannot compensate for out-of-adjustment doors and bad
> solenoids so you should have known it would not "fix" your problems.
> As you close the door SLOWLY you can hear and feel the latches as 
they
> catch in the first locking position and then (if everything is
> adjusted correctly) the 2nd locking position. Slamming the door will
> not make it work, in fact that is how you can jam it. The other 
thing
> I see all too often is that the head of the anchor pins hit the 
door.
> This pushes the door foward or back as the case may be making it 
hard
> to open and close the door. The other thing I see is that the door
> guides strike the pins. If the pins are adjusted right they should 
go
> right up the middle of the guides and not even touch them. It is a
> little tricky to get it right because the doors close in an ARC. It
> may take some trial-and-error to get it right but once you get it 
you
> tighten that pin real tight and it won't move.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Robert Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_h...> 
wrote:
> > Your door seals have you locked in.
> > Read more to find out what I mean......
> > 
> > Many of us have suffered from frozen door locks.
> > My drivers side door has always worked fine, but the passenger 
door
> > from time to time would sometimes lock, and would need to be 
flipped
> > back and forth a few times before you could get it.
> > I thought that $440 on a Lock-ZILLA with a remote would have 
solved
> > the problem but it had no effect.
> > All it did was lock me out from remote!
> > 
> > This time it locked up good.
> > I haven't been able to get in the passenger side for weeks.
> > Today I had to do something about it.
> > So from the inside I began to rip the door apart.




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Message: 25
Date: Wed, 01 Sep 2004 15:09:13 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Darryl Tinnerstet's Water Pump Pulley

I have both Darryl's pulley and Volvo pulleys. Rear groove dimensions
are indeed indentical. Note that Volvo pulleys have a front groove
that might interfere with a belt routed around an upper A/C idler
pulley. Since I'm running the lower A/C idler pulley only (PO mod),
can't check that out (doesn't interfere on my car). 

Rear groove of course ends up the same distance from the block,
otherwise you couldn't route the belt around the crank pulley.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "darryl" <darryl_at_dml_t...> wrote:
 
> To clear this up a little - at the time I designed the aluminum
bolt-on water pump pulley, nearly 18 years ago, DeLorean water pumps
were being sold for $240 without a pressed-on pulley and with no
warranty.  You had to remove the pulley and re-install it yourself,
often ruining it (and new ones were not available).  At the same time
you could go to the closest auto parts store and get the identical
pump, only with a bolt flange for a bolt-on pulley, for $90 - $130,
usually with a lifetime warranty.  (There is no flange to be pressed
on, it's already there; there are no holes to tap, its the right
pump.)  I just took a stock DMC pump with the pulley on it and had new
bolt-on billet aluminum pulleys made that had the identical diameter
and offset as DMC used.  That way the customer had the option of
purchasing a genuine DMC pump, or getting a pulley and locally
sourcing a Volvo-type pump with a better warranty.
> 
> Today the market may have changed and replacement pumps may be
available from the vendors with the pulley pressed on.  But if you
want something a little different, and less expensive, check these
hand-crafted beauties out.  They are now available from DeLorean Parts
Northwest at www.delorean-parts.com.
> 
> 
> Darryl Tinnerstet
> (formerly Specialty Automotive)
> McCleary, WA
> (still lurking, so watch what you say...)
> 





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