From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2206
Date: Wednesday, September 01, 2004 9:20 PM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Fascia paint
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

2. Re: Sloppy doors; Was: Door Locks Locking Up?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

3. Re: T-Pannel Removal
From: "p12c16" <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com>

4. Re: Exhaust Back pressure
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

5. RE: Re: Door Locks Locking Up?
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

6. Re: Re: T-Pannel Removal
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

7. Re: Door Locks Locking Up?
From: Todd Nelson <tan5732_at_dml_rit.edu>

8. Re: Frame Replacement-Anyone Up For Saving A DeLorean?
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

9. Leak
From: Chris Shepherd <chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com>

10. Re: Clutch replacement procedure
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>

11. RE: Sloppy doors; Was: Door Locks Locking Up?
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

12. Re: Re: Fascia paint
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_fuse.net>

13. Re: Exhaust Back pressure
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

14. Looking for a DMC
From: "waldwagen" <waldwagen_at_dml_hotmail.com>

15. Re: Digest Number 2205
From: jordang <jordan_at_dml_investmentplanner.net>

16. Re: Frame Replacement-Anyone Up For Saving A DeLorean?
From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink_at_dml_yahoo.com>

17. Re: Door Locks Locking Up?
From: Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

18. Re: Leak
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>

19. The problem with my car...
From: Thomas Mc Auley <dmc4087_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>

20. Carpet
From: "Ratfink65" <dennis.p.lowery_at_dml_lmco.com>

21. Re: Frame Replacement-Anyone Up For Saving A DeLorean?
From: "Ratfink65" <dennis.p.lowery_at_dml_lmco.com>

22. Funny Fascias
From: Todd Nelson <tan5732_at_dml_rit.edu>

23. Re: Fascia paint
From: "dmcorlando2003" <SundeQuick_at_dml_aol.com>

24. Re: Exhaust Back pressure
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

25. Josh's tech session
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com





Message: 1
Date: Wed, 01 Sep 2004 16:34:14 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Fascia paint

It's about impossible to really match the stainless because it seems 
to change color based on the lighting. 

I have one like that - the car I just bought had the facias painted 
by the PO. Much lighter than original silver color.  It's actually 
grown on me. It is not an attempt to match the stainless, my guess is 
that it was more a case of using what he had a quart of laying 
around. In fact I'd swear it matches my mom's Buick Park Avenue. I 
don't have any good pics handy, but will send something tonight. 


Unfortunately they did a pretty crappy job on the painting and I'll 
probably have to get it done over again. 

Dave S


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, nicholden_at_dml_y... wrote:
> Hi, before i re-assemble my car (which is a while off yet!) i am 
> going to have all the fascias re-painted. Has anyone ever had them 
> painted a silver to try match the stainless as opposed to the 
> standard grey/sliver which looks like it was trying to match but 
> never quite did. Any photos would be great.
> 
> Cheers Nick 10927




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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 01 Sep 2004 16:33:39 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Sloppy doors; Was: Door Locks Locking Up?

As I said in an earlier post, you CANNOT adjust the striker pins to
compensate for shot door seals. If your doors shake while driving over
rough roads replace the door seals. As a bonus you will notice a lot
less wind noise. If you were to adjust the doors to close tighter
against the seals the doors would not match up well with the other
panels and when you finally do replace the door seals you would have
to readjust the striker pins back to where they are now.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Dave T,
> 
> I have noticed that my doors, (driver's especially) "shake" when I 
> drive over bumps. I even noticed my "door ajar" light briefly come on 
> when taking a hard, right curve. The door is completely latched and 
> lines up perfectly with the rest of the body when shut. The door 
> latches as you described below. It should, you adjusted it for me at 





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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 01 Sep 2004 16:38:40 -0000
From: "p12c16" <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: T-Pannel Removal

On my car, VIN 1880, I most definately had double stick black foam tape up there.  I can 
guarantee the previous owner never did anything up there, considering all of the dust.  
Plus the car had 6,500 miles on it.  My car came from the factory like that, and I assume 
they devised a better way to do it on later cars.  I used a tube or two of black RTV, putting 
the T-Panel back on with a towel on top and a tool box on the towel to hold it down to set 
for 2 days, and obviously one of the foam tape strips overlapped because if you look 
closely the T-Panel is curved too much in one spot which makes it look like it is popping 
up.  

But yes, your car is not the only one with the tape, don't rag on the PO.  :)
Patrick
1880




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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 01 Sep 2004 16:51:06 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Exhaust Back pressure

If your straight pipe is attached to the exhaust crossover pipe,
you're still forcing both exhaust streams into a single constricted
outlet.

See Message #43710 (note that our odd firing sequence pretty much
negates the traditional theories).

I'm running true dual exhaust, 2" diameter, no catalytic converters.
Hard to compare directly to a DeLo B28 because I'm also running
different fuel metering (carburetion), but performance shows no sign
of needing improvement.   

Biggest faults with stock DeLo exhaust:
- Extreme heat
- Accessibility (front of the engine as well as the back)
- Restricted flow

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> I am wondering if there is any back pressure specifications the PRV-6
> requires? I've been running a straight pipe (no cat or muffler) for
> quie some time and don't really see that much of a performance gain.
> Am I doing damage? Thanks -Dani B. 5003




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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 01 Sep 2004 11:50:50 -0500
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Door Locks Locking Up?

I still have some adjustments to do, but man it is tough!
It is difficult enough to adjust ONE of these stiker pins, let alone TWO of 
them and get them in a position so that they both catch in the same place!
Right now, it sticks a little when you open it but at least it is catching 
enough that the door will lock and unlock which is my main concern.
I hope to install the door launching kits soon, and as most people have 
found when they install them that if your door is in not absolutely perfect 
alighnment, with good seals and struts your door will just pop, and not 
launch or be aloft at all!

I liked the setup Danny from DMCC has on his time machine, he has a little 
kicker that pushes the door up and give it that extra UUUMMPH it needs.

I hope this information helps someone else before they go tearing thier dors 
apart and replacing solonoids or relays and such.

- Videobob
VIN#5278

PS - Today, I am 30 years old!
Yeah, I made it!
09/01/74


>From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Re: Door Locks Locking Up?
>Date: Wed, 01 Sep 2004 03:27:45 -0000
>
>You figured out what I have been trying to tell most people on the
>DML. You MUST have the door closed in the "second" latching position.
>BOTH LATCHES MUST be in 2nd position to lock. If you try to lock the
>door with either latch NOT in 2nd position you bend, stretch, and
>force things out of adjustment. The doors are NOT SUPPOSED to be able
>to be locked unless you are in 2nd position. If it won't lock easily
>it is trying to tell you that. Before you can do the door adjustments
>you need to have the doors close properly. You CANNOT compensate for
>old, flat door seals by adjusting the locking anchor pins. Lockzilla
>says it cannot compensate for out-of-adjustment doors and bad
>solenoids so you should have known it would not "fix" your problems.
>As you close the door SLOWLY you can hear and feel the latches as they
>catch in the first locking position and then (if everything is
>adjusted correctly) the 2nd locking position. Slamming the door will
>not make it work, in fact that is how you can jam it. The other thing
>I see all too often is that the head of the anchor pins hit the door.
>This pushes the door foward or back as the case may be making it hard
>to open and close the door. The other thing I see is that the door
>guides strike the pins. If the pins are adjusted right they should go
>right up the middle of the guides and not even touch them. It is a
>little tricky to get it right because the doors close in an ARC. It
>may take some trial-and-error to get it right but once you get it you
>tighten that pin real tight and it won't move.
>David Teitelbaum
>vin 10757
>
[moderator snip]



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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2004 11:59:08 -0500
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Re: T-Pannel Removal

http://retroserver.no-ip.com/

This clearly shows double sided tape in the T-panel removal.

Mark V




On Wednesday, September 1, 2004, at 11:38  AM, p12c16 wrote:

> On my car, VIN 1880, I most definately had double stick black foam 
> tape up there.  I can
> guarantee the previous owner never did anything up there, considering 
> all of the dust.
> Plus the car had 6,500 miles on it.  My car came from the factory like 
> that, and I assume
> they devised a better way to do it on later cars.  I used a tube or 
> two of black RTV, putting
> the T-Panel back on with a towel on top and a tool box on the towel to 
> hold it down to set
> for 2 days, and obviously one of the foam tape strips overlapped 
> because if you look
> closely the T-Panel is curved too much in one spot which makes it look 
> like it is popping
> up.
>
> But yes, your car is not the only one with the tape, don't rag on the 
> PO.  :)
> Patrick
> 1880
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>




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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 01 Sep 2004 12:56:37 -0400
From: Todd Nelson <tan5732_at_dml_rit.edu>
Subject: Re: Door Locks Locking Up?

Robert,

Sounds like you have the problem fixed.  However I have heard of issues 
revolving around the fact that the car has two striker posts and therefore 
LATCHES twice and LOCKS twice, the issue is that either one of the locking 
arms will get out of sync and fail to lock/unlock.  A solution that I have 
seen is to disable the LOCKING portion of the system on one of the striker 
posts, this prevents the whole system from getting out of sync and failing 
to lock/unlock.  Keep in mind you are only disabling the locking portion on 
ONE post, both posts will still latch closed for safety but only one will 
lock.  This is a simple fix and allows you to keep using the original system 
instead of buying an expensive ZILLA system.  That is unless you have 
damaged your solenoids beyond repair by allowing them to receive constant 
power.

Todd


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robert Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 31, 2004 9:31 PM
Subject: [DML] Door Locks Locking Up?


> Your door seals have you locked in.
> Read more to find out what I mean......
>
> Many of us have suffered from frozen door locks.
> My drivers side door has always worked fine, but the passenger door
> from time to time would sometimes lock, and would need to be flipped
> back and forth a few times before you could get it.
> I thought that $440 on a Lock-ZILLA with a remote would have solved
> the problem but it had no effect.
> All it did was lock me out from remote!
>
> This time it locked up good.
> I haven't been able to get in the passenger side for weeks.
> Today I had to do something about it.
> So from the inside I began to rip the door apart.
> After messing with for a while it magicly opened.
>
> I assumed, like most of you that the problem was the solonoid,
> so I took it out to clean it...but it seemed fine, operated smooth
> and seemed to be strong.
> It worked strong and quick LOCKING, but UNlocking it sometimes
> it would not budge. Even if you dissconnected the ZILLA box and tried
> to push it with your thumb it was stuck and would not move.
>
> Well I am here to tell you that after I pulled the solonoid, all the
> rods and linkages, and the door latches out and cleaned them with WD40
> and then relubed them with silicone and put everything back
> together....... NOTHING HAPPENED. It was still doing the same crap!
>
> So I did some major investigation on the door latches and figured out
> how they work. I notived that unless the latch was all the way in the
> closed position that the mechanism would not allow itself to move
> into the UNLOCKED position, or rather allow the door handle rod
> linkage to catch the latch release.
> With this knowledge being truth, it MUST mean that the reason the door
> locks are malfunctioning is because my door is not closed all the way
> or at least the latch has not been forced all the way inside by the
> striker and the door is being held tight my the rubber door seals just
> enough to keep it closed.
>
> Long story short, after making some adjustments to move the striker
> pins UP and OUT (about the 10:00 position) the door latches TIGHTER
> than it did before and the locks work smoothly in either direction.
>
> YEEAAAAHHHH!!!!
>
> But how did this happen in the first place?
> Ok, all of us know what it is like to give someone a ride for the
> first time... when they first attepmt to close the door from the
> inside they pull it down a little and it catches but doesn't close all
> the way. Usually the front latch catches and the back is hanging
> becuase of the position of the door handle.
> (this problem was solved with the addition of the pull straps in the
> doors) ...now you need to explain to them how to open the door and to
> close it harder. This time they turn into the Incredible HULK and slam
> it down! Same thing when they get out of the car.
> Over time the stricker pins get pushed down a little at a time if they
> are tightend down as much as they should be.
> The pin is too far down to catch inside the latch all the way.
> Another scenerio is that the bone head who owns the car, (that would
> be me) decides to make some adjustments to the strikers because the
> door is rattling. Why would the door rattle?
> Because my cheap ass has not replaced my leaky shredded door seals
> and now they are flat and not giving pressure to the door making a
> good seal, so the door rattles.... so I just assumed that moving the
> pins down a notch would make the door close MORE - WRONG.
>
> So I hope this information will help someone having the same problem.
> Sometimes the solution is not to replace parts, but to simply adjust
> them. 20 something years can do wonders to a car.
>
> If you have some simular experience with this subject I would love to
> hear your thoughts.
>
> Hope this helps!
> - Videobob
> VIN#5278
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
> 




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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 01 Sep 2004 14:18:30 -0400
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Frame Replacement-Anyone Up For Saving A DeLorean?

I have the space and if you get enough bodies to do it we could do it in a weekend but you need 8 or so capable persons to do a Monster Garage type frame swap.

I have currently 25,000 sq ft of space open but I cannot hang on to something for too long since I am trying to rent it out.

I also have film equipent and remote cameras so we can film it.

Ken



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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2004 10:33:16 -0700 (PDT)
From: Chris Shepherd <chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Leak

I have a water leak, not a good thing in Oregon, on the passenger side. I comes in between the A Post trim and the dash, the little seam (gap) right above the door switch. I've cleaned the channel from the roof down, wasn't very dirty, to let water run freely. Still leaks. Any other ideas? 

		
---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail - Helps protect you from nasty viruses.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 01 Sep 2004 18:48:19 -0000
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>
Subject: Re: Clutch replacement procedure

Thank you all for the advice.

I really underestimated this job. I didn't realize the tranny had to
come out. I suppose now is as good a time as ever to learn, though, so
I'll be digging into it this weekend. I figure with a three day
weekend I ought to be able to get it done, assuming nothing goes wrong
that forces me to wait for parts.

-Ryan

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> You should also have a clutch alignment tool. It will make the
> reinstallation of the transmission MUCH easier. A floor jack would be
> nice too. That way you can let the trans down on it and use it to put
> it back in. A lot easier than trying to lift it up while on your back.
> Take the oil out of the trans so you don't spill it all over yourself.
> You can refill with fresh when you put it back in.
> While you have the trans out you may want to change some of the seals
> on it if they are leaking and replace the roll pin. When you get it
> all back together you should go over all the shifter adjustments and
> lubricate the linkage. Be careful, it is real easy to damage your
> fingers working with heavy parts. Don't force anything. If it doesn't
> come apart easily you may have missed removing a bolt so work slowly
> and carefuly.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757 
> 
> 
> -- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_o...> wrote:
> > Ryan,
> >




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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 01 Sep 2004 12:05:11 -0500
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Sloppy doors; Was: Door Locks Locking Up?

I know this was addressed to David, but let me toss in a few cents.
My door light used to do the same thing, I would make a hard right and my 
dome light would come on. I ended up using a small peice of rubber hose to 
extend the length of the arm a bit.
Make sure the little screw that holds it in place is tight.

The rattle could be flat door seals.
..most likely.
You have just that little bit of slack that lets them vibrate.
However, this is where I ran into my problems.
Remember Dave mentioned the first and second latch?
You are most likely only hitting the first catch, and if anything the pins 
should come OUT and not in.
Does this make sense?
This was the same assumtion and mistake I made by trying to push the pins 
inward, thinking that the door would close tighter, well the door did close 
tighter but only in the first latching position and that is why the door 
locks would not operate.
By adjusting the pins outward, more of the pin is caught inside the latch 
letting it close completely.

I hope this makes sense, and I am sure David's reply will explain it better 
than mine!
- VB

>From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Sloppy doors;   Was: Door Locks Locking Up?
>Date: Wed, 01 Sep 2004 14:26:39 -0000
>
>
>Dave T,
>
>I have noticed that my doors, (driver's especially) "shake" when I
>drive over bumps. I even noticed my "door ajar" light briefly come on
>when taking a hard, right curve. The door is completely latched and
>lines up perfectly with the rest of the body when shut. The door
>latches as you described below. It should, you adjusted it for me at
>the Spring Social. ;-)
>
>Is this a case of flat seals, or should the striker pins be moved in-
>ward just a bit?
>
>Thanks,
>Rich A.
>#5335
>
[moderator snip]



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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 01 Sep 2004 13:07:20 -0400
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_fuse.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Fascia paint

Speaking of fascia painting...My theory on the original color selection 
is that it closely resembles the interior color of the gray cars.  Since 
you can't really match stainless, for the reason Dave gives below, they 
chose the next thing possible.

I currently have 4 reconditioned, and repainted front fascias available 
right now.  All have had the reinforcement added to prevent the 
eyebrows, and they match the original color, because we used a 
cross-over for the original code.  If anyone is interested, I am asking 
$300 per fascia, and I have two very nice ones that were not damaged, 
and just needed paint, that I'm asking $400 for.  I do have pictures, 
and can forward them if you are interested.  They all look GREAT this 
time around!

-Josh



Dave Swingle wrote:

>It's about impossible to really match the stainless because it seems 
>to change color based on the lighting. 
>
>Dave S
>
>  
>





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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 01 Sep 2004 19:48:57 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Exhaust Back pressure

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...>
wrote:
<SNIP>
> Biggest faults with stock DeLo exhaust:
> - Extreme heat
> - Accessibility (front of the engine as well as the back)
> - Restricted flow
> 
> Bill Robertson
> #5939

I'll back that totally. I especially hate the positioning of the
Catalytic Convertor. I've even 
switched to the next level of hotter spark plugs, and still the plugs
on cylinders 5 & 6 are 
heat discolored.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"




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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 01 Sep 2004 20:13:00 -0000
From: "waldwagen" <waldwagen_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Looking for a DMC

Hi,

I'm new tot the group. I've always admired these cars and have 
dreamed of having one. My wife made me a deal-if I lose 100 pounds 
and complete a marathon, she's going to buy me one. The only caveat 
was that the car is completely restored and need no work. 

Any suggestions?  I've been looking at Deloreanone.com, they sell 
turnkeys for 35k.




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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 01 Sep 2004 15:32:35 -0500
From: jordang <jordan_at_dml_investmentplanner.net>
Subject: Re: Digest Number 2205

Hi, before i re-assemble my car (which is a while off yet!) i am going 
to have all the fascias re-painted. Has anyone ever had them painted a 
silver to try match the stainless as opposed to the standard grey/sliver 
which looks like it was trying to match but never quite did. Any photos 
would be great.

Cheers Nick 10927

When I bought my car a few years ago, I painted mine a silver color.  I 
did not like the gray color and close a silver color which was much 
closer to the stainless steel.  I am still very happy with the color.  
If you want I can make a picture and send it to you.
Jordan Gary






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Message: 16
Date: Wed, 01 Sep 2004 20:53:19 -0000
From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Frame Replacement-Anyone Up For Saving A DeLorean?

I would definately go for a nice video that explained the basics of 
what needed to be done.  I'm hopeing to do a frame swap and get it 
completed before the next car show.  

Erik



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, kKoncelik_at_dml_a... wrote:
> I have the space and if you get enough bodies to do it we could do 
it in a weekend but you need 8 or so capable persons to do a Monster 
Garage type frame swap.
> 
> I have currently 25,000 sq ft of space open but I cannot hang on to 
something for too long since I am trying to rent it out.
> 
> I also have film equipent and remote cameras so we can film it.
> 
> Ken




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Message: 17
Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2004 14:07:35 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Door Locks Locking Up?

Boy Todd, you're keeping me busy today!
 
The statement you made below is totally incorrect.  The procedure you describe is only to assist in the complicated "sync" portion of the front and back locks.  Since the back lock is more than enough to keep the door shut, DMC Joe used to always recommend just tossing the front lock rod.  While I'm not certain I would do it this way, it certainly makes the adjustment much easier by taking out half of the equation.
 
This procedure does *not* eliminate the need for a rework of the lock module.  The lock module acts up because weak relays throw current heavy solenoids, and eventually "weld" themselves in the open or closed position.  The fix is to either buy the Lockzilla (if your solenoids are still good) or take the load out of the system by some means such as DPNW's actuator kit (that's what my car is currently sporting).
 
Before making repair recommendations to owners, I would highly recommend you spend some time studying the manuals and attending some technical gatherings.  There are plenty of groups on the east coast, and you have PJ Grady with you in New York.  Get involved with the group and you'll learn a lot!  --But don't go explaining a procedure you don't understand, 'cause that just makes it confusing...
 
Jake Kamphoefner
1063 -->with both all four locks working perfectly! ;-)

Todd Nelson <tan5732_at_dml_rit.edu> wrote:
Robert,

Sounds like you have the problem fixed. However I have heard of issues 
revolving around the fact that the car has two striker posts and therefore 
LATCHES twice and LOCKS twice, the issue is that either one of the locking 
arms will get out of sync and fail to lock/unlock. A solution that I have 
seen is to disable the LOCKING portion of the system on one of the striker 
posts, this prevents the whole system from getting out of sync and failing 
to lock/unlock. Keep in mind you are only disabling the locking portion on 
ONE post, both posts will still latch closed for safety but only one will 
lock. This is a simple fix and allows you to keep using the original system 
instead of buying an expensive ZILLA system. That is unless you have 
damaged your solenoids beyond repair by allowing them to receive constant 
power.

Todd




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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2004 14:11:41 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Leak

Chris

I don't have a suggestion but I'm sure someone else
will.

BUT, your post reminded me of one of my favorite
bicyling T-shirts (not because of the girl who was
wearing it - though that would be reason enough to
remember it).  I digress!  The shirt said:   

     "Oregon - where bicyling is a water sport"

Good Luck.

Dick


--- Chris Shepherd <chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:

> I have a water leak, not a good thing in Oregon, 



		
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Message: 19
Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2004 22:16:13 +0100 (BST)
From: Thomas Mc Auley <dmc4087_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: The problem with my car...

Ok, heres the overall problem with my car...it wont start, wont even
crank. Its an automatic, so I have checked the linkage which seems
fine because it makes contact with the inhibitor switch when in
neutral and park.
When I try to start it, I can hear relays clicking behind passenger
seat so they seem fine (if I hold in the ignition, the microswitch
in the engine bay ticks constantly).
The starter fuse seems to melt down whenever the car is cranked
continuously (I got the car like that, and it happened to me last
week) and I do not know if that is normal.
I got a multi digital reader thingy which is complicated to work,
but I do get readouts from the relay sockets, battery connections
and even that fuse socket for the starter, so I think that is good.

I am going to attempt putting a 25 amp cable between the positive
battery terminal and Pin 85 of the starter relay, which may start
the car. (thanks to Nick Tomlinson for his advice!)

Clearly, I am not mechanically/electrically minded but I am picking
it up as I go along. So, can anyone tell me, or suggest what the
problem is?

Thanks,
Thomas
Vin #4087


		
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 ALL-NEW Yahoo! Messenger - all new features - even more fun!  

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Message: 20
Date: Wed, 01 Sep 2004 22:09:39 -0000
From: "Ratfink65" <dennis.p.lowery_at_dml_lmco.com>
Subject: Carpet

Has anyone purchased a set of carpet from the link below?

If so, what did you think?  What did it include?(door sills, rear 
package shelf, floorboards, etc.) what color?

http://www.sisalmats.com/Carpets/DELOREAN-carpet.htm

Dennis Lowery
VIN 4797




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Message: 21
Date: Wed, 01 Sep 2004 22:13:53 -0000
From: "Ratfink65" <dennis.p.lowery_at_dml_lmco.com>
Subject: Re: Frame Replacement-Anyone Up For Saving A DeLorean?

Count me in! I don't have the knowledge required but I can follow 
directions.  Contact me off-list to confirm dates etc. if you get 
this thing off the ground.  Good Luck!

Dennis
Woodbridge, Va


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Michael & Denise" <luckeys71_at_dml_c...> 
wrote:
> Hi gang,
>   After replacing the slave cylinder last week with a big assist 
from Dave Sontos I decided to buy a frame listed on eBay in the hopes 
of saving my rusted car.  The problem lies in the fact that I do not 
have the technical capabilities or the tools to do this so I thought 
I'd consult with the group here to see if the possibility exists of 
assembling a team to try and accomplish this.  There are many small 
issues to work out but if this can be done I would be happy to have 
folks stay with my here in Newport News, Va. for however many 
weekends would be needed or pay for accommodations at our area 
hotels.  This is a big project to undertake and I honestly don't know 
if it can be pulled off but I felt I should at least try.  All kinds 
of things would probably need to be replaced when disassembling the 
vehicle (brake lines, coolant lines, etc.) so anyone with any 
suggestions on things to look for or replace I would appreciate it.  
As Dave Sontos can attest to the frame is pretty much shot but the 
car runs strong and the interior and exterior are in fairly nice 
shape which makes me feel like this is worth a shot.  So tell me 
honestly guys am I dreaming or can this actually be done?  Any and 
all input is appreciated as I've already learned so much from this 
list it's unbelievable.
> Thanks for listening and I hope to hear some of your thoughts,
> Mike
> rusty frame #3760
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 22
Date: Wed, 01 Sep 2004 18:35:05 -0400
From: Todd Nelson <tan5732_at_dml_rit.edu>
Subject: Funny Fascias

Does anyone know why you see many Deloreans that have bent up fascias right above the headlights?

Todd


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Message: 23
Date: Wed, 01 Sep 2004 22:46:26 -0000
From: "dmcorlando2003" <SundeQuick_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Fascia paint

>From a color standpoint, Stainless is much more a black based color 
than it is Silver based.  For example when you look at "Silver" 
silverware compared to "Stainless Steel" Silverware.  The real Silver 
appears VERY pale almost white-ish while the Stainless appears to 
have a deeper/darker look because of it being a more black based 
color.  

For this reason I think that is why they chose a black based grey for 
the fascias.  I have seen a silver fascia and against the Stainless 
body panels it looked like it was too white similar to the real 
Silver example above.  I have also seen a grey bumper that was (too) 
blue based gray and it too looked way off because of not having the 
proper base.  It is a case of getting a grey that is in the proper 
color family base and not so much the depth of the color.  

I have noticed in some photos in certain light the fascias on  my car 
(that are original) match the stainless almost perfectly.

Hopefully this makes a little sense...just my 2 cents and opinion

Michael  




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Message: 24
Date: Wed, 01 Sep 2004 23:28:03 -0000
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Exhaust Back pressure

I am not running a true dual exhaust as of yet although I have am
currently building one (this is my winter project to complete). In any
case, I'm sorry but I have to disagree with the straight pipe do not
give an increase in power. If you're getting the exhaust gas out of
the engine faster then the better the engine can perform. There is
(although slight) a noticable increase in power-it's not like
strapping in a turbo but there still is some better performance out of
the engine- and it takes much less time to come back to idle from a
high rev then it would with a stock setup. If they didn't do any good
no one would buy them and install them in their vehicles. I believe
that all states will not pass you if you don't have a muffler-and also
will fail you if you're vehicle comes factory with a cat and it is not
installed. In my area I'm well known by most shops and police
departments so I can get away with experimenting with exhausts of my
vehicles. For those who are interested in doing the same thing I did-
DO NOT remove your cat or run with no muffler-you WILL get stopped and
have all kinds
of new troubles from the police, DEP and when inspection time comes. I
am just asking about back pressure for my peice of mind, I'm not
recommending anyone to do the same I have. Also come winter time-I
will be experimenting with the valve train, heads, pistons and all
kinds of good stuff like that-I'll be sure to let you all know how it
goes. Dani B. 5003


> In just about all internal combustion engines there is a "magic"
> amount of backpressure required. It changes as loads change,
> atmospheric pressure, temerature, etc. Straight pipes usually do not
> give an increase in power. If they are too short they can allow
> ambient air to get near the exhaust valves causing them to fail from
> thermal shock. In any case straight pipes are NOISY. In most states
if
> you do not have a muffler or a cat you cannot pass inspection. I
would
> at least replace the muffler. You will not get much improvement by
> modifying the exhaust unless you also modify the intake.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> 
> -- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> > I am wondering if there is any back pressure specifications the
PRV-6
> > requires? I've been running a straight pipe (no cat or muffler)
for
> > quie some time and don't really see that much of a performance
gain.
> > Am I doing damage? Thanks -Dani B. 5003




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Message: 25
Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2004 19:54:18 EDT
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Josh's tech session

Since I rarely get anything done at a tech session for me and end up  working 
on everything else (just joking) I thought I would give josh's session a  
twist and get into a more dynamic project.
 
At the tech session we are going to swap an engine, that is remove and  
reinstall an engine in one day if we get enough people to help 
If not I will just finish it the next day.
 
I usually do this on my own over the course of three days so its not that  
big of job but between the beer and food (right josh) it ought to be fun.
 
Parts are all clean and ready to go on the new engine although it is just a  
long block now and has nothing on it
 
If interested see Josh for directions and see you there
 
We are also going to do a windshield like we did in Chicago.
 
Ken


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