From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2213
Date: Sunday, September 05, 2004 7:15 PM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: DMC Maintenence
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com>

2. RE: DMC Maintenence
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

3. Re: Looking for a DMC (Andy)
From: Todd Nelson <tan5732_at_dml_rit.edu>

4. Re: Re: Looking for a DMC (David T)
From: Todd Nelson <tan5732_at_dml_rit.edu>

5. RE: Re: Speaker wire
From: "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade_at_dml_hotmail.com>

6. Re: Exhaust Manifold Gaskets (Enid/Jeremiah)
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

7. Re: Alternator problems
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

8. Re: DMC Maintenence
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

9. Re: Alternator problems
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

10. Door Latch Adjustment
From: "EJ Chambers" <marmieej_at_dml_yahoo.com>

11. Re: Frame Replacement-Game On!
From: "lakelanier20" <derek4567_at_dml_hotmail.com>

12. Re: Door Latch Adjustment
From: Chris Shepherd <chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com>

13. Re: Alternator problems
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

14. Re: Digest Number 2212-Sitting around
From: dqauto_at_dml_aol.com

15. Ignition issue- RESOLVED (long)
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

16. Re: Door Latch Adjustment
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

17. RE: Alternator problems
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

18. Binnacle removal
From: "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade_at_dml_hotmail.com>

19. Photo Shoot
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

20. Re: DMC Maintenence
From: "dmc4matt" <dmc4matt_at_dml_yahoo.com>

21. Re: Binnacle removal
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

22. Re: Ignition issue- RESOLVED (long)
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

23. Re: Photo Shoot
From: Louie G <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>

24. Re: Re: Exhaust Manifold Gaskets (Enid/Jeremiah)
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com>

25. Re: Ignition issue- RESOLVED (long)
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2004 19:22:32 -0700 (PDT)
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: DMC Maintenence

> My question: Has anyone had a similar problem like
> myself? 


I would have the RPM (fuel) relay replaced.  If it
still doesn't start, place a paperclip in the 87B and
30 (bottom left and top right) and see if the fuel
pump runs - just like this.

http://specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/rpm-relay-jumper.jpg

If the fuel pump runs, check your cold start valve and
make sure it's getting fuel.  Could be a faulty
thermotime switch as well.


		
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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2004 21:18:48 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: DMC Maintenence

Matt, Providing you have no vacuum leak somewhere, I would say the
enrichment needs to be adjusted. I would put in a new 02 sensor and
re-adjust.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com





-----Original Message-----
From: dmc4matt [mailto:dmc4matt_at_dml_yahoo.com]
Sent: Saturday, September 04, 2004 4:31 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] DMC Maintenence


Hey everybody,

Just bought a DeLorean a few weeks ago. It's an 81 Automatic, dark
grey interior, with 28K on it. I've always wanted one and thought
they are just the neatest looking cars. It runs and drives very well.
The previous owner (I'm guessing) didn't put in any of the updates
because everything looks original. I had the common (I think) hot
start problem. Everything i've read said the most common thing to fix
it is the fuel accumulator. I replaced that first, hoping it would
solve the problem. Well, it didn't, so I then tried the check valve O-
Rings. It was missing the O-Ring on the piston, so i thought that
would solve my problem. I put the new rings in, and started it up. I
let it get warm, and shut it off. I let it sit for ten minutes, and
it fired right back up. I then did the same thing, letting it sit for
fifteen minutes. It fired back up. I took it down the street to put
gas in, and it wouldn't start again. I had to call a flatbed tow
truck to tow it two miles down the road :(  Since I live quite a bit
away from and of the DMC Service Centers, I called a local Volvo
service center. The owner, of course, knew that thew DeLoreans used
the same Bosch K Jetronic fuel system as a Volvo. They took the car
in, and started to check it out. His first thought was that it was
the fuel pump, but as he looked more into it, he thinks it may be the
fuel relay, because he says it smells burned. So that is where I am
with it.

My question: Has anyone had a similar problem like myself?

Thanks!
Matt
VIN # 2205




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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 04 Sep 2004 22:33:56 -0400
From: Todd Nelson <tan5732_at_dml_rit.edu>
Subject: Re: Looking for a DMC (Andy)

Andy,

Thanks a lot for the info.  The last I heard on the car the owner was going 
to take it back to the dealership he bought it from 23 years ago and have 
them do some "repairs".  He was hoping to get out for $1,000, then ask 
$15,000 for it.  I tried not to laugh because it would probably cost that 
much to just get the car in this dealerships doors, but then again I am not 
exactly sure what he had in mind to fix.  He said he would give me a call 
before he did anything with it, so I'll keep you posted.

Thanks again,
Todd



----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Soma576_at_dml_aol.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, September 03, 2004 9:23 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] Looking for a DMC (Andy)


> In a message dated 9/3/04 12:30:39 PM Central Daylight Time, 
> tan5732_at_dml_rit.edu
> writes:
>
>
>> Also note, EVERYTHING is original down to the tires, I have heard of many
>> improvements / upgrades that are considered a necessity to use this car 
>> as a
>> daily driver, this car has not seen any of those.
>>
>> Your response is greatly appreciated.
>>
>> Todd
>
> Todd,
>
> This one sounds like one of those cars that is NOT worth $18K.  I would
> advise either talking this one down if the rest of the body and interior 
> are
> PRISTINE to maybe $12K - other than that, don't feel bad if you walk away 
> from this
> one.  the car I described that is worth $18K would be in much better
> electrical condition.  why it has so many problems with only 11,000 miles 
> is quite odd.
> perhaps the speedo doesn't work so it hasn't logged any miles in a long 
> time?
> do the tires look like they have 11,000 miles on them?  this car has quite 
> a
> story behind it, i am sure.
>
> don't hesitate to keep looking if you have a gut feeling it's a problem 
> car.
> but then again, some people like that challenge, and it could still be a 
> good
> deal IF everything else were PERFECT.   as for the transmission grinding 
> in
> reverse, that is a typical problem of an OEM plastic clutch line. 
> switching to
> a stainless braided line would probably eliminate that problem.  i 
> wouldn't
> be too worried about that part.
>
> Andy
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
> 




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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 04 Sep 2004 22:39:48 -0400
From: Todd Nelson <tan5732_at_dml_rit.edu>
Subject: Re: Re: Looking for a DMC (David T)

David,

Thanks for the input, I've been going back and forth with Andy and his 
feelings seem similar to yours.  I guess if I can convince the owner that 
this car does need some significant work, he'll reflect that in the asking 
price.  Who knows, but I'll keep you apprised.

The reply was greatly appreciated,
Todd



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, September 03, 2004 10:46 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: Looking for a DMC


> It has been my experience with a lot of old cars that even if you find
> one that has been garaged since new you will have all kinds of
> problems. Maybe when you first start to use it you might only have a
> window that won't work but very quickly the aging process catches up.
> The brakes will start to leak. The water pump will leak. Electrical
> problems will pop up out of nowhere. The more you exercise it the more
> problems you will have. It will be a steep curve and you will fall
> behind but eventually you will catch up on them and slowly you will
> have less and less trouble until it is reliable. The trouble with this
> piecemeal approach is that it seems like it is bleeding you to death a
> little at a time while stranding you at the worst possible times and
> places. The other way to approach this is to "bite the bullet" and
> just do all the work that you know it will need all at once. This
> means all of the usual things for a Delorean like struts, cooling
> system service, fuel system service, rebuild the brakes and clutch, do
> ALL the updates and recalls, a couple of Zillas or something similar,
> door seals, C/V boots,fuel accumulater and filter, tires, clutch line,
> change ALL the fluids, wiper blades, Tune-up, trailing arm bolts,
> lubricate EVERYTHING, and on and on. You will spend at least $5,000
> just on parts. You really have to be honest with yourself and budget
> for it when you buy a "sleeper"
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
>
>
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113_at_dml_y...> wrote:
>> " What you want to avoid is an all original, stock car that has been
>> sitting it's whole life with no miles"
>>
>>    Somehow I find this rather hard to believe, I purchased my car
>> with 89 miles on the clock and on top of being concourse worthy its
>> a dream to own and drive. Did I spend $$ to make it that way? yes
>> but not that much and having everything addressed from the beginning
>> is in my opinion the best way to go. Im sure that in 5 years time I
>> would have paid less to keep my car on the road than most others.
>> I would go as far as putting my car up against a DMCH anytime
>> The 20 thousand rule is on its way to becoming obsolete (maybe an
>> average good shape car)....you couldnt pry some cars from their
>> owners for 35 thousand certainly not mine.
>>
>> Harry VIN #2696 "In all her glory I might add"
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
> 




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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 04 Sep 2004 22:43:52 -0400
From: "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Speaker wire

So here is what I found.  I had a disco glove box.  So what exactly is a 
disco glove box you ask?  Someone decided to hook my speaker wires up to the 
glove box light.  Guess it was suppose to light in tune to the music.

So the responses actually helped me get my glove box light and right front 
speaker working.

Replaced both front speakers and they worked fine.  But think my radio is on 
the way out.  Right channel is weak on front and rear.  Will try and look at 
the harness later to see if anything is loose just not up to removing the 
console right now.

Many thanks for the replys I received on this issue.

Ed
10541

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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 05 Sep 2004 03:27:43 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Exhaust Manifold Gaskets (Enid/Jeremiah)

Be careful removing exhaust manifold nuts. Studs are small and fine
thread pitch. Nuts are usually well rusted to them. Does not take much
torque to snap a stud off in the heads.

I recommend:
- Week prior soak them every day with an honest to goodness
penetrating oil (not WD 40)
- Zap them with highest heat possible before attempting to turn (for
example MAPP gas in a plumbing torch)
- Do not use a cheater if you can help it

I didn't even attempt to turn mine (previous engine), but rather split
the nuts off with a nut splitter and cold chisel. 7mm stainless nuts
are available for easier removal in the future. Rob grady even had the
studs themselves made in stainless (7mm is a VERY uncommon size).

BTW: full throttle microswitch is triggered as the result of fully
open throttle plates. It does not open them itself -- that's
accomplished by the plate and rod attached to the throttle spool.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Enid/Jeremiah
<hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> Now for next Saturday...the day Casey and I begin to
> change the exhaust manifold gaskets...=)
> 





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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 05 Sep 2004 04:05:27 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Alternator problems

I would agree that the alternator is bad. I suspect you have blown 1
or more of the diodes. That would cause a high ripple DC that the
voltage regulator cannot control. Changing the regulator won't help.
You need to replace the alternator or at least replace the bad diodes.
In most cases it is prudent to replace ALL of the diodes because even
though some may not have failed the others are probably on borrowed
time. The cheapest way is usually to just replace the alternator
rather than try to rebuild it. By time you do the brushes, bearings,
voltage regulator, and diode bridge, you can buy a reconditioned one
for less. Of course that is assuming you get one done by a reputable
shop. Many only replace the bad part, wash it (and wash out any
lubrication in the bearings) and spray paint it. This is not what I
would call "reconditioned". An ordinary dc voltmeter cannot read the
AC component in the DC voltage. Try reading on the AC scale. Anything
over around 1-2 volts AC is BAD. If you take the alternator out and
have it bench-tested they should be able to quickly see if the diodes
are popped. The diodes can be damaged by jump-starting and momentaraly
connecting the cables up wrong. It doesn't always happen immediatly
either. Overheating the alternator can also be the cause from
overloading it.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Rich and I were working on an alternator issue today that I've never 
> run into. I know how to look for the usual stuff, but this one has me 
> stumped.
> 
> Start car - alternator light stays on, charging system at 12.1 volts 
> (DVM, not the dash gauge. Dash gauge looks to be about 9 volts). 
> 
> Rev Engine - charging system jumps to 13.9 volts, light stays on. 
> 





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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 05 Sep 2004 04:36:45 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: DMC Maintenence

Matt - You should have a look at the RPM relay.  We have moved a 
number of them recently.  It seems to be their cycle at this time.  
This relay allows power to the fuel pump when the engine is running 
(or at least turning over a minimum of RPM's).  You can jumper the 
RPM relay socket to test this, but this is only a very temporary 
test configuration.  Don't operate the car with the RPM relay 
bypassed.  You do this by making a short jumper wire with male spade 
terminal ends, and inserting them in the #30 and #87b positions in 
the RPM relay socket.  If the car starts and runs in this mode, 
replace the RPM relay.  If this doesn't do the trick, then the hunt 
is on for the culprit.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com  


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "dmc4matt" <dmc4matt_at_dml_y...> wrote:
 His first thought was that it was 
> the fuel pump, but as he looked more into it, he thinks it may be 
the fuel relay, because he says it smells burned. So that is where I 
am with it.





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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 05 Sep 2004 04:45:55 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: Alternator problems

Dave - I went through a similar exercize a couple of years ago.  The 
alternator was making voltage, but the light was on.  BTW - I have a 
Delco 110 amp alternator in my car.  It turned out that alternators 
can develop voltage without having the amperage to back them up.  I 
changed the previously installed "Al's Auto Supply" rebuilt special 
with a new Delco unit, and have had no issues since.  I'm sure that 
one of the electrical theorists on the List can tell us how this all 
works, but that was my experience.  Give me a bent bolt over a burnt 
fuse anytime!

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com 


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Rich and I were working on an alternator issue today that I've 
never run into. I know how to look for the usual stuff, but this one 
has me stumped. Start car - alternator light stays on, charging 
system at 12.1 volts (DVM, not the dash gauge. Next step is to 
replace the alternator with a new one, but did I miss anything? 
> 
> Dave S




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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 05 Sep 2004 04:48:13 -0000
From: "EJ Chambers" <marmieej_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Door Latch Adjustment

I am in the process of trying to adjust my door latches. To note, I
have also recently replaced all my door seals (per the previous
discusison) I have successfully adjusted the passenger door so that
the latch pins line up directly with the door latch.

On the flip side, I cannot adjust the driver pins enough so that I
have the same result. The front latch pin appears to be knocking up
against the fiberglass body so that I cannot adjust it further. The
rear latch pin lines up correctly.

Also, I it is my belief, along with others who have been helping me,
that the driver door at some point in time was, for lack of a better
word, "tweaked". Reason for this belief is the front bottom part of
the door is curved in more than it should be; hence not aligning up
with the fender panel when closed.

Our current assessment is that the door must have had a good "knock"
when in the open position or in the process of opening, causing a bend
in the lower front door and possibly mis-aligning the door just a tad,
so that I cannot compensate it by adjusting the latch pins alone.

So, does this sounds any what plausible? Can a door become
mis-aligned? Is there a way to re-align the door with the door
attached to the car? Is there a way I can adjust the latch pins even
more? It would not take much of an change in how the door is bolted to
the car. Of course, my first thought that comes to mind when thinking
about this is the torsion bar.

Does anyone have insight, advice, idea, anything to help out? All help
is greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!!
Ej
4475
 




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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 05 Sep 2004 05:02:50 -0000
From: "lakelanier20" <derek4567_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Frame Replacement-Game On!

Sounds like fun (to watch, anyway, hehe).  I would definitely come if 
I didn't live about 500 miles from Cincinnati.  Make sure to take 
lots of pictures, and a video if you can!  I'm sure everyone will be 
very curious about the procedure.

-Derek L
VIN 5302




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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2004 06:34:03 -0700 (PDT)
From: Chris Shepherd <chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Door Latch Adjustment

Given your description here's what I would try. Cut a 2X4 to support the front of the door and pull down on the back of the door very gently. IF this appears to make a positive difference, however slight, continue. Very small positive tweaks are the way to go rather than trying to do it all at once. Also, the 2X4 should be against a "meaty" part of the door, not the lip.
 
Chris

EJ Chambers <marmieej_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
I am in the process of trying to adjust my door latches. To note, I
have also recently replaced all my door seals (per the previous
discusison) I have successfully adjusted the passenger door so that
the latch pins line up directly with the door latch.

On the flip side, I cannot adjust the driver pins enough so that I
have the same result. The front latch pin appears to be knocking up
against the fiberglass body so that I cannot adjust it further. The
rear latch pin lines up correctly.

Also, I it is my belief, along with others who have been helping me,
that the driver door at some point in time was, for lack of a better
word, "tweaked". Reason for this belief is the front bottom part of
the door is curved in more than it should be; hence not aligning up
with the fender panel when closed.

Our current assessment is that the door must have had a good "knock"
when in the open position or in the process of opening, causing a bend
in the lower front door and possibly mis-aligning the door just a tad,
so that I cannot compensate it by adjusting the latch pins alone.

So, does this sounds any what plausible? Can a door become
mis-aligned? Is there a way to re-align the door with the door
attached to the car? Is there a way I can adjust the latch pins even
more? It would not take much of an change in how the door is bolted to
the car. Of course, my first thought that comes to mind when thinking
about this is the torsion bar.

Does anyone have insight, advice, idea, anything to help out? All help
is greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!!
Ej
4475





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Message: 13
Date: Sun, 05 Sep 2004 14:30:08 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: Alternator problems

I agree with what Dave T. is saying, except that didn't you say that 
you tried a couple other alternators and regulators? I doubt they're 
all bad.

I would definitely do the A/C voltage test to check for A/C ripple.

I've yet to see a car with the Motorola and the regulator. Is the 
regulator external? Where is is mounted?

Also, forgive me for saying this:

You -have- ensured that you're hooking up the small (field?) wire for 
the light to the right contact right? I know you've done this a 
million times but when fatigue sets in...I hooked up my little wire 
to the wrong stud and the light stayed on. I freaked out until I 
figured out what I'd done.

I look forward to hearing the resolution.

Rich A.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Rich and I were working on an alternator issue today that I've 
never 
> run into. I know how to look for the usual stuff, but this one has 
me 
> stumped.
> 
> Start car - alternator light stays on, charging system at 12.1 
volts 
> (DVM, not the dash gauge. Dash gauge looks to be about 9 volts). 
> 
> Rev Engine - charging system jumps to 13.9 volts, light stays on. 
> 
> Let it idle back down, stays at 13.9, light stays on. (Dash just 
> above the 13). 
> 
> Things we tried - remove light bulb - acts exactly the same (but 
with 
> no light - duh). Checked wire (brown w/yellow trace) from 
alternator 
> to idiot light with both ends disconnected - no shorts to ground, 
> overall resistance of the wire less than an ohm. Cleaned up 
bulkhead-
> to-frame ground, bypassed engine-to-frame ground, check all 
> connections at instrument cluster. Checked connections at 
alternator 
> (all those stupid brown wires). Tried another battery. Keep in mind 
> that the car starts and runs fine, which rules out most of the 
> grounding issues since the starter ground and alternator ground are 
> essentially the same path. 
> 
> I'm suspecting that the regulator in the alternator is bad, but we 
> tried three different used OEM Motorola alternators (all of 
> admittedly suspect quality). Unfortunately I'm not sure the other 
two 
> worked the same - we didn't try reving the engine with those. In 
all 
> the cases the idiot light was on brightly. 
> 
> Next step is to replace the alternator with a new one, but did I 
miss 
> anything? 
> 
> Dave S




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Message: 14
Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2004 10:54:53 EDT
From: dqauto_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Digest Number 2212-Sitting around

Hi List,

Even though I don't own a Delorean yet, I am still here reading all of the 
wisdom out here on this list! :) Someday!

In this digest, someone was thinking about this D with 11,000 miles.   Well, 
this is something that I can sort of relate to.  Last winter I purchased   a 
87 300zx.   You may not remember me, but I am the crazy Zchickz that love these 
and other cool 80s cars.   Hence the on going love for the D. I have/had many 
of these cool cars.   But currently my collection is Zs, Impulses, Conquests. 


But I digress, this particular 87 was bought at a charity sale and only had 
90k on him.   Going by the inspection sticker, he sat for about 3 years or so.  
 I did call the previous owner and she told me that it was her son's and 
something aweful happened but the car sat in the garage until they could part with 
it.   All tires were close to flat, and there were some notes on the 
windshield for the yard guys "NO CLUTCH, WON'T START".    Well, being a Zchick I 
noticed right away just how STOCK this car was and by taking a quick mental tally 
of the parts in the garage, I figured what the hell! $400!!!!   I have a few 
rebuilt engines, trans, plenty of parts and cars so why not?

The NO CLUTCH was easy...   Bleeding the slave cylinder got me 10k down the 
road.   New battery and stabil in the system helped with the starting... And a 
tune up/oil change/high test gas helped with the running.   Now, it is 22k 
miles down the road and so far I have replaced alot of the hydraulic stuff like, 
4 calipers, (new pads while I was there) brake lines, clutch slave & master, 
brake master cylinder, orings for the resevior (new fluid while I was there).   
New tires. I also flushed the rad, and changed the oil at first every 500 
miles for a few times, 2500 ever since to make sure that there wasn't anything 
floating around.   The windows are slow going up so I goo'd those and the 
plastic bits on the window tracks are broken to bits so I ordered new ones of those 
from Courtesy Nissan.   No rear sway bar bushings!   The rear taillights were 
leaking really bad where the black goo wasn't goo'y any more and dried up to 
let water in.   Basically everything rubber or plastic is brittle and dried 
out.   
 I did alot of the work myself which saved on $$ but I know that he is going 
to need his 60k soon and I am almost dreading that!   I am really bad at 
'while I am there let's do this___' in the attempt to catch and kill the gremlins 
before they give me a headache.

So my theory is that if you have the time, a big bottle of ADVIL, and the 
money doesn't worry you, then try to get the car cheaper.   You WILL HAVE TO PUT 
SOME SILLY MONEY INTO THIS D TO GET HER ROAD READY AND DE-GREMLINED.   It may 
take 10k to recognize the gremlins.   So be prepared.    

FWIW,

Zya!
Anna

Owner~DesignQuest Auto Enhancing
President~Tri-State Z Car Club
IZCC #11540
Z31 #2524
Isuzuweb #6610


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 15
Date: Sun, 05 Sep 2004 15:12:21 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Ignition issue- RESOLVED (long)

I'm posting this because a few folks have related that are interested 
in my results because they have a similar problem. To recap:

Symptom(s):  Car started well, idled acceptably. All fuel pressures 
nominal by Bosch fuel pressure test rig. All fuel components 
replaced. Car stuttered heavily under load (A/C on, pulling away from 
dead-stop, hard accel), surged when maintaining steady speed, and 
experienced a power fall-off when the accelerator pedal is pressed 
more than 1/3 of the way down. The power curve "drops off" and the 
car decelerates. The engine sound changed drastically, as if 
misfiring.

I'm sorry to say that there wasn't one particular "smoking gun" to 
this problem. It was a many-layered thing. Here are the items that 
caused a noticible improvement as I fixed them:

As David Titlebaum says "Just because it's new, doesn't means it's 
working correctly".

1. My "new" plug wires were SHOT. 2 read "infinite" or "open" on my 
Fluke multimeter. The others 4 read 9k ohms or more. The normal 
resistance for new, plain old store-bought 7mm wires is around 1.5k 
ohms. My new hi-po wires read 350 ohms/ft. 8mm, silicone.

2. My "new" cap and rotor had HEAVY carbon scoring. Uncleanable. Most 
likely due to my plugs being overgapped and failing plug wires. 
Replaced with Bosch plugs of the correct part #, correctly gapped and 
new cap and rotor.

3. Grounds: I replaced the black ground cable that runs from inside 
the coil box to the frame. I cleaned the ground cable behind the 
parcel shelf wall, passenger side. Also, the ignition ECU grounds the 
coil via the white/slate wire. Inside the coil box this wire goes 
from the coil to the yellow plug, pin 3. The pins were -green- and 
didn't contact well. I cleaned these up and crimped the female closed 
a bit. I then checked the white/slate junction in the relay 
compartment. Pics available upon request. 

4. Coil: I have experimented with; Accel, OEM Bosch(blue), 18kv Bosch
(red), MSD Blaster 2.
Of these, (oddly) the red, 18kv Bosch and the Accel coils run the 
worst. For me, they cause a less acceptable idle and performance is 
not as good under load. If I had to hazard an educated guess, I say 
it's because the -internal- resistances are not OEM spec. They are 
higher. I believe to function correctly, they might need a longer 
dwell time to build the proper field in the coil prior to discharge. 
As we all know, dwell is neither readable, nor adjustable on our 
cars. The MSD has the same internal resistance as the OEM coil. It 
idled well and had good performance. The biggest difference I noted 
between MSD and the OEM coil was easier starting, a slightly better 
idle and slightly more horsepower. I'm probably not making full use 
of the MSD coil because I haven't matched it with other hi-po 
ignition components except the wires.

I don't guarantee that my problems are your problems but I make the 
following recommendations:

1. Clean the aforementioned grounds. Use contact cleaner from Radio 
Shack (spray can) and emery paper, then coat lightly with brand: CRC 
di-electric grease. Verify that all spade connections are in good 
repair and tight. Many of mine broke off due to wire-fatigue. 
(especially white/slate)

2. No matter how recently you've done a tune-up, inspect or replace 
your ignition components. I can't stress the word QUALITY enough. I 
tried to cheap out, and it caused me trouble in a couple of areas. 
Bosch, Bougicord, etc. DMCH's Nology and John Hervey's hi-po wires 
are also good (just my opinion).

3. Ensure coil compatibility. Some of you who wrote me also have the 
red, 18kv Bosch coil. I recommend experimenting with the OEM coil, 
but if you have to have a "firecracker", get the Nology kit or MSD or 
Pertronix. I would stay away from Accel and I don't think I trust the 
red 18kv Bosch coil anymore. Whatever you do, try to get a coil with 
the same internal resistance as "old blue".

My power curve is back to normal. No surging, no power drop off. I 
can push the pedal anywhere I like and the car keeps on going. A/C on 
or off. I had to fix -all- of these things to get it that way.

I hope this helps,

Rich A.
#5335




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Message: 16
Date: Sun, 05 Sep 2004 15:14:30 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Door Latch Adjustment

Some doors get "tweaked" when you try to drive the car into a garage
with the door open and the door hits the wall. "Not a good thing!"
Difficult to ever get right again. To adjust the anchor pin properly
may require grinding away some of the fiberglass so you can move the
pin a little further. Use a blanket inside the car to try to contain
the mess. To "untweak" the door involves cutting all the internal
stiffeners loose, flexing the door into the correct position, and then
rewelding the stiffeners. Do not try to correct by adjusting the
hinges. You will throw off all of the other adjustments. It is very
difficult to fix the bent corner so it looks "right". You can try
adjusting the front fender to more closely match the curve of the door
so it isn't as noticeable.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "EJ Chambers" <marmieej_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> I am in the process of trying to adjust my door latches. To note, I
> have also recently replaced all my door seals (per the previous
> discusison) I have successfully adjusted the passenger door so that
> the latch pins line up directly with the door latch.
> 
> On the flip side, I cannot adjust the driver pins enough so that I
> have the same result. The front latch pin appears to be knocking up
> against the fiberglass body so that I cannot adjust it further. The
> rear latch pin lines up correctly.
> 
> Also, I it is my belief, along with others who have been helping me,
> that the driver door at some point in time was, for lack of a better
> word, "tweaked". Reason for this belief is the front bottom part of
> the door is curved in more than it should be; hence not aligning up
> with the fender panel when closed.
> 





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Message: 17
Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2004 11:08:47 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Alternator problems

Dave, 3 things,
#1.Make sure the belt isn't glazed over and slipping. Since it comes up to
13.9 after revving and holds there that could be a possibility.
#2. Unplug the regulator plug and re stab it a time or 2. Put some
electrical grease on it also.
#3 If the above doesn't work then the light circuit in the regulator is
blown. That doesn't mean it won't charge.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com
Home of the Delorean Parts
and Delorean alternators backed 24/7.





-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Swingle [mailto:swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com]
Sent: Saturday, September 04, 2004 7:09 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Alternator problems


Rich and I were working on an alternator issue today that I've never
run into. I know how to look for the usual stuff, but this one has me
stumped.

Start car - alternator light stays on, charging system at 12.1 volts
(DVM, not the dash gauge. Dash gauge looks to be about 9 volts).

Rev Engine - charging system jumps to 13.9 volts, light stays on.

Let it idle back down, stays at 13.9, light stays on. (Dash just
above the 13).

Things we tried - remove light bulb - acts exactly the same (but with
no light - duh). Checked wire (brown w/yellow trace) from alternator
to idiot light with both ends disconnected - no shorts to ground,
overall resistance of the wire less than an ohm. Cleaned up bulkhead-
to-frame ground, bypassed engine-to-frame ground, check all
connections at instrument cluster. Checked connections at alternator
(all those stupid brown wires). Tried another battery. Keep in mind
that the car starts and runs fine, which rules out most of the
grounding issues since the starter ground and alternator ground are
essentially the same path.

I'm suspecting that the regulator in the alternator is bad, but we
tried three different used OEM Motorola alternators (all of
admittedly suspect quality). Unfortunately I'm not sure the other two
worked the same - we didn't try reving the engine with those. In all
the cases the idiot light was on brightly.

Next step is to replace the alternator with a new one, but did I miss
anything?

Dave S





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Message: 18
Date: Sun, 05 Sep 2004 12:16:43 -0400
From: "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Binnacle removal

Was trying to remove the binnacle to replace some bulbs.  I can't loosen the 
2 nuts closest to the steering column because the bolts are turning.  I have 
tried to grab the bolts with pliers but that isn't working.

Any thoughts?

Ed
10541

_________________________________________________________________
Check out Election 2004 for up-to-date election news, plus voter tools and 
more! http://special.msn.com/msn/election2004.armx




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Message: 19
Date: Sun, 05 Sep 2004 15:25:20 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Photo Shoot

I spent the morning (Saturday) at a photo shoot for a C/D alblum
cover. They hired my Delorean for 2 hours. It took 5. They paid for
flatbedding it to and from the shoot at Floyd Bennet Field in
Brooklyn. They wanted a kind of Back to the Future theme for the
cover. Don't get too excited over it, it is a Hip-Hop C/D by a white
rapper. The main thing I wanted to say about this whole thing was
INSURANCE! The Photo company provided a Cetificate of Insurance and
said everything was fully covered. I was suspicous so I sent it to
Hagerty and asked their opinion. They pointed out that althought there
was $125,000 coverage for the car the deductible under certain
conditions could be as high as $7,500. The offered a one time
commercial endorsement for the shoot for $92. I had the Photo company
agree to pay it. The lesson here is most of us do not have ANY
insurance that could cover the car for commercial use. If you ever do
allow your car to be used in this manner you MUST make sure you have
full and complete coverage. I can provide further details on the
alblum for anyone interested off-list.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757




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Message: 20
Date: Sun, 05 Sep 2004 17:57:27 -0000
From: "dmc4matt" <dmc4matt_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: DMC Maintenence



Hey Everybody,

Thanks for all your input. It gives me a lot to think about! 
Hopefully it will be back soon!

Matt
VIN # 2205






--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "dmc4matt" <dmc4matt_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Hey everybody,
> 
> Just bought a DeLorean a few weeks ago. It's an 81 Automatic, dark 
> grey interior, with 28K on it. I've always wanted one and thought 
> they are just the neatest looking cars. It runs and drives very 
well. 
> The previous owner (I'm guessing) didn't put in any of the updates 
> because everything looks original. I had the common (I think) hot 
> start problem. Everything i've read said the most common thing to 
fix 
> it is the fuel accumulator. I replaced that first, hoping it would 
> solve the problem. Well, it didn't, so I then tried the check valve 
O-
> Rings. It was missing the O-Ring on the piston, so i thought that 
> would solve my problem. I put the new rings in, and started it up. 
I 
> let it get warm, and shut it off. I let it sit for ten minutes, and 
> it fired right back up. I then did the same thing, letting it sit 
for 
> fifteen minutes. It fired back up. I took it down the street to put 
> gas in, and it wouldn't start again. I had to call a flatbed tow 
> truck to tow it two miles down the road :(  Since I live quite a 
bit 
> away from and of the DMC Service Centers, I called a local Volvo 
> service center. The owner, of course, knew that thew DeLoreans used 
> the same Bosch K Jetronic fuel system as a Volvo. They took the car 
> in, and started to check it out. His first thought was that it was 
> the fuel pump, but as he looked more into it, he thinks it may be 
the 
> fuel relay, because he says it smells burned. So that is where I am 
> with it.
> 
> My question: Has anyone had a similar problem like myself? 
> 
> Thanks!
> Matt 
> VIN # 2205




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Message: 21
Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2004 14:03:21 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Binnacle removal

In a message dated 9/5/04 12:55:08 PM Central Daylight Time, 
edgarbade_at_dml_hotmail.com writes:


> Was trying to remove the binnacle to replace some bulbs.  I can't loosen 
> the 
> 2 nuts closest to the steering column because the bolts are turning.  I have 
> tried to grab the bolts with pliers but that isn't working.
> 
> Any thoughts?
> 
> Ed
> 10541

You are turning the wrong nuts!  you only need to remove the six (i think) 
7mm (i think!) little lock nuts to remove the binnacle.  I think you are trying 
to turn the nuts that hold the steering column to the dash.

Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 22
Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2004 14:13:55 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Ignition issue- RESOLVED (long)

In a message dated 9/5/04 12:01:52 PM Central Daylight Time, 
racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com writes:


> 
> 2. No matter how recently you've done a tune-up, inspect or replace 
> your ignition components. I can't stress the word QUALITY enough. I 
> tried to cheap out, and it caused me trouble in a couple of areas. 
> Bosch, Bougicord, etc. DMCH's Nology and John Hervey's hi-po wires 
> are also good (just my opinion).

Hind sight is always 20/20.  It amazes me how many people will do anything to 
save a few bucks (no offense to you since you saw the light!!).  I can't 
believe anyone out there would rather drive to 7 different carquests, NAPA, 
shucks, etc just save $10 on spark plug wires or to get the 'cross referenced' fuel 
pump, coil, or whatever.  the vendors make it so easy to get what you want.... 

i am willing to bet that a quarter of the DeLoreans out there that don't run 
well are directly due to using non-OEM parts and trying to 'save a few bucks'. 
OK, you saved some money, and now where are you?  I hope Rich's post helps 
others see what a waste of time it is to spend half an hour comparing your old 
part to a shoebox full of questionable 'maybe fits' parts at the local auto 
supply store.  

bite the bullet and buy the right parts for your car.  you will be glad you 
did in the end.  I know i am.

Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 23
Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2004 12:12:22 -0700 (PDT)
From: Louie G <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: Photo Shoot

I've heard about several list members doing photo shoots, corporate events, parties, and movies lately. How do these interested parties contact you? Is there a way to get on some registry or something? How do you figure out how to charge for these events, and how do you ensure the safe and timely return of your car? I'd love to be able to do some of these things with my car, who knows it might help offset cost of ownership. I've heard of people doing charity events and stuff as well, I'd love to be able to give back some too. Is there any sort of protocol for "dummies" on this subject?

Louie Golden
VIN 5252 Charlotte, NC



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Message: 24
Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2004 14:58:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Exhaust Manifold Gaskets (Enid/Jeremiah)

Excellent.  Thank you Bill for the very useful
information.  I will probably make an order to Rob in
regards to the studs.  I'm taking a good 3 weeks on
this job (weekends), so I'll make sure I take my sweet
time doing this.  Thanks again.  Oh and about the
microswitch, hehe, I'm still leanring =P.


--- content22207 <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net> wrote:

> Be careful removing exhaust manifold nuts. Studs are
> small and fine
> thread pitch. Nuts are usually well rusted to them.
> Does not take much
> torque to snap a stud off in the heads.
> 
[moderator snip]



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Message: 25
Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2004 15:30:03 -0700 (PDT)
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Ignition issue- RESOLVED (long)

AMEN.  Well put Andy.


--- Soma576_at_dml_aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 9/5/04 12:01:52 PM Central
> Daylight Time, 
> racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com writes:
> 
> 
> > 
> > 2. No matter how recently you've done a tune-up,
> inspect or replace 
> > your ignition components. I can't stress the word
> QUALITY enough. I 
> > tried to cheap out, and it caused me trouble in a
> couple of areas. 
> > Bosch, Bougicord, etc. DMCH's Nology and John
> Hervey's hi-po wires 
> > are also good (just my opinion).
> 
> Hind sight is always 20/20.  It amazes me how many
> people will do anything to 
> save a few bucks (no offense to you since you saw
> the light!!).  I can't 
> believe anyone out there would rather drive to 7
> different carquests, NAPA, 
> shucks, etc just save $10 on spark plug wires or to
> get the 'cross referenced' fuel 
> pump, coil, or whatever.  the vendors make it so
> easy to get what you want.... 
> 
[moderator snip]



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


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