From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2214
Date: Monday, September 06, 2004 6:43 PM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Ignition issue- RESOLVED (long)
From: "endotex23" <endotex23_at_dml_yahoo.com>

2. Re: Binnacle removal
From: "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade_at_dml_hotmail.com>

3. Water Pump
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com

4. Re: DMC Maintenence
From: John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_yahoo.com>

5. Re: Photo Shoot
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

6. Re: Door Latch Adjustment
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

7. Re: Alternator problems
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

8. Re: Ignition issue- RESOLVED (long)
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

9. Re: Ignition issue- RESOLVED (long)
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

10. Right rear fender lens and trim-WTB
From: "Roland Smith" <roland_at_dml_dnai.com>

11. Car show-Oakland, California
From: "Roland Smith" <roland_at_dml_dnai.com>

12. Re: Binnacle removal
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

13. Re: Ignition issue- RESOLVED (long)
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

14. RE: Water Pump
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

15. RE: Ignition issue- RESOLVED (long)
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

16. Re: Re: The problem with my car...
From: Thomas Mc Auley <dmc4087_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>

17. Inspection sucess
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>

18. RE: Re: Alternator problems
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

19. hotstart problems
From: Me <fleetofworlds_at_dml_yahoo.com>

20. RE: Re: Alternator problems
From: kevin creason <kcreason77_at_dml_yahoo.com>

21. Re: Ignition issue- RESOLVED (long)
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com>

22. Re: hotstart problems
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

23. RE: Right rear fender lens and trim-WTB
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>

24. Re: Ignition issue- RESOLVED (long)
From: "endotex23" <endotex23_at_dml_yahoo.com>

25. Re: hotstart problems
From: "checksix3" <jetjock11_at_dml_hotmail.com>





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 06 Sep 2004 01:02:38 -0000
From: "endotex23" <endotex23_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Ignition issue- RESOLVED (long)


> bite the bullet and buy the right parts for your car.  you will be 
glad you did in the end.<

If you're advocating buying such parts only from a vendor that's 
nonsense. All you're doing when you succumb to this is admitting you 
don't have the expertise to know the difference. Do you really think 
DMC or any other vendor has a factory out back making spark plugs, 
wires, coils, or most other components?

All you're doing is saving time and that's certainly your choice but 
the plain truth is the time required to determine the suitability of 
a part is inversly proportional to your knowledge of the part or 
system in question.

 




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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 05 Sep 2004 20:51:46 -0400
From: "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Binnacle removal

Nuts on mine (the center 2) are actually 8mm.  Already removed the the other 
4 nuts (which were 7mm).  Are there any other nuts this size around 
thecolumn?

Ed


>You are turning the wrong nuts!  you only need to remove the six (i think)
>7mm (i think!) little lock nuts to remove the binnacle.

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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2004 21:23:06 EDT
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Water Pump

Is anyone out there using the "Volvo" pump with the bolt on pulley?
 
I need to replace my pump and the pulley is quite rusted and also appears  to 
be cracking at its hub.
 
What pump did you buy, where did you get it and what kind of warranty does  
it have?
 
What pulley are you using?  The one from DeLorean Parts Northwest  seems good.
 
Thank  you,

Dave and 6530




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2004 19:27:45 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: DMC Maintenence

Be very, very careful when you let someone mess with the jetronic K fuel system who does not have experience working on Deloreans'.  It is nearly bullet proof, remember their are components that are Not Volvo, It is a delorean!  I've been down that road by someone that was an "expert on Volvo's and Yes jaguar's too" over the years and speak from experience and it was not fun!-one of those two shops are now out of business.
Just some food for thought.
 
Other issues fine but when someone that is not familiar with the Deloearn fuel system starts trying to figure it out you could more likely be spending ALOT more money than necessary.  The fuel system is something you don't want to leave inexperience mechanic trying to learn on your car.  No matter how much they try and convince you, ask have they ever worked on deloeran's specifically the fuel system?
 
You might be alot better off diagnosing and repairing the car yourself with the help of the DML, we all have just about seen every issue with fuel system and could probably nail down problem pretty quickly if it isn't already been diagnosed and best of all the advice is free and your get the correct parts from the correct vendors!!!


 
Hey everybody,

Just bought a DeLorean a few weeks ago. It's an 81 Automatic, dark 
grey interior, with 28K on it. I've always wanted one and thought 
they are just the neatest looking cars. It runs and drives very well. 
The previous owner (I'm guessing) didn't put in any of the updates 
because everything looks original. I had the common (I think) hot 
start problem. Everything i've read said the most common thing to fix 
it is the fuel accumulator. I replaced that first, hoping it would 
solve the problem. Well, it didn't, so I then tried the check valve O-
Rings. It was missing the O-Ring on the piston, so i thought that 
would solve my problem. I put the new rings in, and started it up. I 
let it get warm, and shut it off. I let it sit for ten minutes, and 
it fired right back up. I then did the same thing, letting it sit for 
fifteen minutes. It fired back up. I took it down the street to put 
gas in, and it wouldn't start again. I had to call a flatbed tow 
truck to tow it two miles down the road :( Since I live quite a bit 
away from and of the DMC Service Centers, I called a local Volvo 
service center. The owner, of course, knew that thew DeLoreans used 
the same Bosch K Jetronic fuel system as a Volvo. They took the car 
in, and started to check it out. His first thought was that it was 
the fuel pump, but as he looked more into it, he thinks it may be the 
fuel relay, because he says it smells burned. So that is where I am 
with it.

My question: Has anyone had a similar problem like myself? 

Thanks!
Matt 
VIN # 2205




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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 06 Sep 2004 03:20:35 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Photo Shoot

There are "brokers" (agents) who list your car and call you if anyone
calls them for a car. If you go to enough car shows you will
eventually find them or they will find you. You can also look in the
Yellow Pages under advertising, you may find some of them listed
there. I don't know how much of this is done in your area, the New
York area does a lot of this and I don't get many calls.
 As for charging it varies. It depends on if they have to have the car
moving or not, how long the car will be used, whether they have to
alter the car, etc, etc. I was offered $300 for 2 hours and they kept
the car & me there for 5. I am going to try to get more. They are also
supposed to feed you after 4 hours. I also asked for 1 copy of the C/D
and a credit in the case (car provided by D/T). Hopefully the car may
get some publicity and maybe generate more calls. Charity events do
not pay. I guess you could also advertise the car yourself for kids
parties and such.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Louie G <louie_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> I've heard about several list members doing photo shoots, corporate
events, parties, and movies lately. How do these interested parties
contact you? Is there a way to get on some registry or something? How
do you figure out how to charge for these events, and how do you
ensure the safe and timely return of your car? I'd love to be able to
do some of these things with my car, who knows it might help offset
cost of ownership. I've heard of people doing charity events and stuff
as well, I'd love to be able to give back some too. Is there any sort
of protocol for "dummies" on this subject?
> 
> Louie Golden
> VIN 5252 Charlotte, NC




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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 06 Sep 2004 14:32:21 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Door Latch Adjustment

The striker pin may still have "movement" left in the striker 
bracket but movement is inhibited by the cover. You can cut away 
some of the cover with a reamer tool to allow the additional 
movement you may need. It can get more complex because of the 
washers used for in/out spacing, etc. so be careful. The need for 
considerable movement among the cars and unsightly holes in the 
cover for the needed movement must have been a constant issue 
because eventually DMC introduced the rubber cover to dress up the 
area around the striker pin.

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "EJ Chambers" <marmieej_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> I am in the process of trying to adjust my door latches. To note, I
> have also recently replaced all my door seals (per the previous
> discusison) I have successfully adjusted the passenger door so that
> the latch pins line up directly with the door latch.
> 





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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 06 Sep 2004 13:57:21 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Alternator problems

Too bad you don't have a known working Motorola alternator or 
regulator. Did you check the light function? That is, disconnect the 
light wire and ground it there by the alternator - the light comes 
on? If so then you most likely do have a bad alternator/regulator. 
Did you load up the electrical system with fans on, etc.?

It is hard to say what might be bad since I believe (I can't find my 
motorola literature) the motorola is internally energized and the 
light function is a "triggered" function that is activated 
separately by the regulator. Therefore the alternator will work even 
if the light bulb is bad, gone, etc.

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Rich and I were working on an alternator issue today that I've 
never 
> run into. I know how to look for the usual stuff, but this one has 
me 
> stumped.
> 
> Start car - alternator light stays on, charging system at 12.1 
volts 
> (DVM, not the dash gauge. Dash gauge looks to be about 9 volts). 
> 
> Rev Engine - charging system jumps to 13.9 volts, light stays on. 
> 
> Let it idle back down, stays at 13.9, light stays on. (Dash just 
> above the 13). 
> 
>




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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 06 Sep 2004 15:33:19 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Ignition issue- RESOLVED (long)

I could agree with you but most of the people on the DML are not
qualified to determine the "correct" parts. In some cases cross-over
referenced parts may change sources and no longer be suitable. It is
hard enough for most people to do the work at all let alone to figure
out if the parts will work. They could end up buying the parts and
doing the work twice, once to use the "el cheapo" parts and once to
use the parts from the venders. You are correct that the venders do
not manufacure many parts but some they do and in all cases they use
these parts on cars they service so they know they will work and will
stand behind them when they don't. They will also provide telephone
support but you can't expect them to help you when you buy the parts
at Autozone! Anyone can do whatever they want and buy their parts from
whoever they choose. When you go to buy a Delorean and you don't see a
Perflux oil filter and other parts that didn't come from a Delorean
vender you wonder just what the P.O. did with all the cross-referenced
parts and if they wil work. It also isn't just a matter of IF the
parts work, it is also how reliable and how long they will function.
In many cases the Delorean vender's prices are less then you will pay
elsewhere, especally on the Bosch parts. In some cases it makes no
sense at all to buy some things from the Delorean venders, like tires,
wiper blades, batteries, light bulbs, oil, etc.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



> If you're advocating buying such parts only from a vendor that's 
> nonsense. All you're doing when you succumb to this is admitting you 
> don't have the expertise to know the difference. Do you really think 
> DMC or any other vendor has a factory out back making spark plugs, 
> wires, coils, or most other components?
> 
> 




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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2004 11:39:29 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Ignition issue- RESOLVED (long)

In a message dated 9/6/04 8:51:38 AM Central Daylight Time, 
endotex23_at_dml_yahoo.com writes:


> If you're advocating buying such parts only from a vendor that's 
> nonsense. All you're doing when you succumb to this is admitting you 
> don't have the expertise to know the difference. Do you really think 
> DMC or any other vendor has a factory out back making spark plugs, 
> wires, coils, or most other components?
> 
> All you're doing is saving time and that's certainly your choice but 
> the plain truth is the time required to determine the suitability of 
> a part is inversly proportional to your knowledge of the part or 
> system in question.

I myself would be comfortable doing such things.  however it is quite 
apparent that many on the list are not.  take the original poster for example.  he 
tried to save a few bucks by buying some plug wires that MIGHT work and they 
obviously didn't.  i think it's too easy to forget that the majority of owners on 
here are not very mechanically or automotive inclined.  i met quite a few at 
pigeon forge.  for some, it may not be a problem - but if in doubt, the 
vendors are the only way to go, both for quality and convenience.  Bill Robertson 
with his water pump post is a good example of how SOME people can pull it off.  
many can't.

Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2004 09:33:03 -0700
From: "Roland Smith" <roland_at_dml_dnai.com>
Subject: Right rear fender lens and trim-WTB

I am interested in purchasing the red lens which in long, thin and
rectangular for the right rear fender.  I also need the trim that fits
between the lens and the rear of the fender.

TIA
Roland Smith
Oakland, California
6667





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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2004 09:44:37 -0700
From: "Roland Smith" <roland_at_dml_dnai.com>
Subject: Car show-Oakland, California

The Montclair Lions Club is staging a flea market, community fair and
informal car show on Saturday September 11, 2004 from 9:00 am through 3:00
pm.

Advance registration is not required.  There in no entry fee.

The Montclair Park is located just off the Thornhill/Moraga off ramp from
the 13 freeway. This is the freeway that connects the 24 and 580 freeways.

Roland Smith
Oakland, California
510-238-3378 ofc
510-531-0256 res
510-708-4318 cell
VIN 6667





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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2004 11:48:25 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Binnacle removal

In a message dated 9/6/04 9:33:17 AM Central Daylight Time, 
edgarbade_at_dml_hotmail.com writes:


> Nuts on mine (the center 2) are actually 8mm.  Already removed the the 
> other 
> 4 nuts (which were 7mm).  Are there any other nuts this size around 
> thecolumn?
> 
> Ed

Ed,  you found them all.  you should be able to just lift up on the cluster 
and it will come out.  there will be two wiring harnesses going into the back 
of the cluster and of course the speedo cable goes into the back of the 
speedometer. also removable.  the cluster could be kind of tight removing.  the 
threads on the brackets that hold the nuts you removed could be dug into the dash 
and are catching. 

Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 06 Sep 2004 16:44:24 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: Ignition issue- RESOLVED (long)

Exactly!  Most people who are looking for crossover parts
DON'T know what really works and what doesn't - nor do they 
have the slightest clue what it takes to qualify a part.  
They certainly don't have the time, equipment, or expertise 
to do it on their own.  

What may work on a single car in a single location given a 
single driving pattern won't necessarily work under different
circumstances.  There is no guarantee that the part will
work anywhere else.  Take spark plugs and wires.  Are they
the correct impedance?  Are they the correct temperature 
range?  Are they gapped correctly?  Just because a set of
wires will reach from the cap to the plugs doesn't mean
they are the correct parts.  Just look at the issues 
that have been reported on this list regarding replacement
coils.

What DMC and other vendors have is exposure to a large 
population of cars.  They can determine from their experience
over that population what works and what doesn't.  They are 
also better equipped to quantitatively determine if a part is 
better or not.

--
Mike


-------------- Original message from "endotex23" : -------------- 

> 
> > bite the bullet and buy the right parts for your car. you will be 
> glad you did in the end.< 
> 
> If you're advocating buying such parts only from a vendor that's 
> nonsense. All you're doing when you succumb to this is admitting you 
> don't have the expertise to know the difference. Do you really think 
> DMC or any other vendor has a factory out back making spark plugs, 
> wires, coils, or most other components? 
> 
> All you're doing is saving time and that's certainly your choice but 
> the plain truth is the time required to determine the suitability of 
> a part is inversly proportional to your knowledge of the part or 
> system in question. 
> 



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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2004 12:27:53 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Water Pump

Dave, I sold several pumps with the bolt on pulley. There is no difference
in the pumps. I have both in stock, but the press on pulley is the most
predominant. We also have a life warranty on our new pumps.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com



-----Original Message-----
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com [mailto:doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com]
Sent: Sunday, September 05, 2004 7:23 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Water Pump


Is anyone out there using the "Volvo" pump with the bolt on pulley?

I need to replace my pump and the pulley is quite rusted and also appears
to
be cracking at its hub.

What pump did you buy, where did you get it and what kind of warranty does
it have?

What pulley are you using?  The one from DeLorean Parts Northwest  seems
good.

Thank  you,

Dave and 6530




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2004 12:45:23 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Ignition issue- RESOLVED (long)

Endotex,
Since you didn't sign your post I think what they are trying to say is that
vendors like me have time tested and in stock and proven parts that work on
the Delorean in most cases. Also as you may know, most all the vendors give
free tech help when something stumps the customer or they just want a second
opinion. Believe it or not but I save people a lot of money buy not buying
parts that are not needed.
Maybe you don't need it and that's fine. But even the shops I talk to get
stumped and need help. Sure you can spend hours and buy all your parts at
the local stores or they will have to order them, then try to get help. It
may be hard.
Yes, I do manufacture several items like HP wires 8mm wires, alternators and
re-man a lot of items and several updated items for the Delorean.
Just my comments.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com





-----Original Message-----
From: endotex23 [mailto:endotex23_at_dml_yahoo.com]
Sent: Sunday, September 05, 2004 7:03 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Ignition issue- RESOLVED (long)



> bite the bullet and buy the right parts for your car.  you will be
glad you did in the end.<

If you're advocating buying such parts only from a vendor that's
nonsense. All you're doing when you succumb to this is admitting you
don't have the expertise to know the difference. Do you really think
DMC or any other vendor has a factory out back making spark plugs,
wires, coils, or most other components?

All you're doing is saving time and that's certainly your choice but
the plain truth is the time required to determine the suitability of
a part is inversly proportional to your knowledge of the part or
system in question.






To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
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Yahoo! Groups Links









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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2004 20:09:07 +0100 (BST)
From: Thomas Mc Auley <dmc4087_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: The problem with my car...

Hi Toby, I finally narrowed down the problem after using the proper equipment. It was the starter solenoid, the metal connections inside it were fried, so I am having that fixed tomorrow. I think that should do it...hopefully.
Thanks for all your help and suggestions!
Thomas,
Vin #4087
Belfast

tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com wrote:
Thomas - We had a PNDC member in Spokane, Washington with an 
automatic. He had a similar challenge, in that the starter wouldn't 
crank or even make a noise. A few of us went over for a parade 
there, and had a mini-tech session with this car to see if we could 
get it going so that the owner could be in the parade. After 
tracing down all of the wires, and doing a bunch of basic trouble-
shooting, we arrived at the solution. There are some large 
connectors under the coil cover that connect several of the wiring 
looms together through the "firewall". It turned out that there was 
some corrosion on one of the terminals in the red connector (as I 
recall) that was for a white/red wire. When we cleaned and reset 
all of the connectors in this area, the car started flawlessly. In 
the wiring diagrams, this white/red wire goes from the starter 
solenoid through to the start inhibit relay. (When one hears the 
term "start inhibit", what comes to mind?) All this to say, take 
each of those connectors apart, clean each terminal with emery cloth 
and contact cleaner, and then reassemble with dielectric grease. 
Then, when your car starts, let the List know what the solution was 
for everybodies learning. 

Toby Peterson VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Thomas Mc Auley wrote:
> Ok, heres the overall problem with my car...it wont start, wont 
even
> crank. Its an automatic, > 





To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2004 12:12:50 -0700 (PDT)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Inspection sucess

Hey all,


Looks like the Delorean is good to go for another two
years.  It passed the full inspection including
emissions without any problems, abeit alot of
questions.

Now it is safe to start up on some last projects
before the winter comes.

Just for those who wish to know, here are the
highlights of the emmissions test.  Any thoughts

Test              Minimum      Maximum    Actuall

_at_dml_Idle(RPM)          600        1000       790
   CO Percent       ---        0.500      0.004

_at_dml_HighNeutral(RPM)   2500       3000       2910
   CO Percent       ---        0.300      0.005

Lambda Measure      0.970      1.030      1.016


thanx
Jordan



		
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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 06 Sep 2004 14:07:32 -0500
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Alternator problems

I have a Motorolla Alternater that was working fine when I pulled it to 
replace it with one of John Hervey's 140 Amp Brutes.
Does anyone want it?
What's it worth?
I'd take $100 for it.
-VB


>From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Re: Alternator problems
>Date: Mon, 06 Sep 2004 13:57:21 -0000
>
>Too bad you don't have a known working Motorola alternator or
>regulator. Did you check the light function? That is, disconnect the
>light wire and ground it there by the alternator - the light comes
>on? If so then you most likely do have a bad alternator/regulator.
>Did you load up the electrical system with fans on, etc.?
>
>It is hard to say what might be bad since I believe (I can't find my
>motorola literature) the motorola is internally energized and the
>light function is a "triggered" function that is activated
>separately by the regulator. Therefore the alternator will work even
>if the light bulb is bad, gone, etc.
>
>Harold McElraft - 3354
>
>
>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> > Rich and I were working on an alternator issue today that I've
>never
> > run into. I know how to look for the usual stuff, but this one has
>me
> > stumped.
> >
> > Start car - alternator light stays on, charging system at 12.1
>volts
> > (DVM, not the dash gauge. Dash gauge looks to be about 9 volts).
> >
> > Rev Engine - charging system jumps to 13.9 volts, light stays on.
> >
> > Let it idle back down, stays at 13.9, light stays on. (Dash just
> > above the 13).
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>





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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2004 12:18:26 -0700 (PDT)
From: Me <fleetofworlds_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: hotstart problems

Note to new owners.The fuel accumulator is not always responsible for the car not starting when hot.This problem is also caused by an overheted fuel system. The components get so hot from engine heat that fuel will not regulate properly.Notice that alot of other mechanical fuel injection systems have special cooling fans and shrouds over certain components.The engine being in the rear of the vehicle limits air flow.So things get extra hot especially when the engine stops.Besides adding a custom cooling setup (which isnt diffcicult) there are not many ways to deal with it.If you car wont start sometime try opening the engine compartment for a few minutes.If the car seems to start easier after doing so this is most likely your problem.

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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2004 13:52:51 -0700 (PDT)
From: kevin creason <kcreason77_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Alternator problems

build a camping generator with it....

--- Video Bob <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com> wrote:

> I have a Motorolla Alternater that was working fine
> when I pulled it to 
> replace it with one of John Hervey's 140 Amp Brutes.
> Does anyone want it?
> What's it worth?
> I'd take $100 for it.
> -VB
> 
> 
> >From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
> >Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> >To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> >Subject: [DML] Re: Alternator problems
> >Date: Mon, 06 Sep 2004 13:57:21 -0000
> >
> >Too bad you don't have a known working Motorola
> alternator or
> >regulator. Did you check the light function? That
> is, disconnect the
> >light wire and ground it there by the alternator -
> the light comes
> >on? If so then you most likely do have a bad
> alternator/regulator.
> >Did you load up the electrical system with fans on,
> etc.?
> >
> >It is hard to say what might be bad since I believe
> (I can't find my
> >motorola literature) the motorola is internally
> energized and the
> >light function is a "triggered" function that is
> activated
> >separately by the regulator. Therefore the
> alternator will work even
> >if the light bulb is bad, gone, etc.
> >
> >Harold McElraft - 3354
> >
> >
> >--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle"
> <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> > > Rich and I were working on an alternator issue
> today that I've
> >never
> > > run into. I know how to look for the usual
> stuff, but this one has
> >me
> > > stumped.
> > >
> > > Start car - alternator light stays on, charging
> system at 12.1
> >volts
> > > (DVM, not the dash gauge. Dash gauge looks to be
> about 9 volts).
> > >
> > > Rev Engine - charging system jumps to 13.9
> volts, light stays on.
> > >
> > > Let it idle back down, stays at 13.9, light
> stays on. (Dash just
> > > above the 13).
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> >moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> >
> >For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
> >
> >To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> >http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> >Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
>     dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> 
>  
> 
> 



		
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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2004 14:09:44 -0700 (PDT)
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Ignition issue- RESOLVED (long)

I agree with where this post is going on both sides. 
For instance,  I know what kind of ignition coil,
spark plugs, light bulbs, and whatnot to use without
having to necessarily go to the vendors.  Now if it
comes to something like a waterpump, fuel distributor,
or alternator - then you might be getting a bit more
brave than myself.  I remember before I bought the
DeLorean; I didn't know what the color of antifreeze
was.  Now I know how to adjust the idle system, how
some of the fuel system works, how to work on brake
systems...but I know my lines and my limits.  I
devloped confidence and knowledge, but I know I still
have so much to learn.  The exhaust system - I've been
getting excellent information from experienced people
here on the list this week.  Excellent tips, thanks
again everyone.  Point is, the more you do, the more
you know, and the more one can make judmental calls
like what kind of parts to use and when.  It all
depends on your comfort factor and your confidence
level.

Jeremiah


		
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Message: 22
Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2004 17:20:28 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: hotstart problems

In a message dated 9/6/04 3:46:02 PM Central Daylight Time, 
fleetofworlds_at_dml_yahoo.com writes:


> If you car wont start sometime try opening the engine compartment for a few 
> minutes.If the car seems to start easier after doing so this is most likely 
> your problem.
> 

well, the point of the accumulator is to combat this exact thing from 
happening by keep the fuel system pressurized so it cannot vapor lock.  do you have 
any sources you can cite that show this to be an issue?  i have never seen this 
problem on the net and i also have Probst's book "Understanding Bosch Fuel 
Injection" which makes no mention of this situation in a car with the 
accumulator installed.

Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 23
Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2004 16:24:23 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>
Subject: RE: Right rear fender lens and trim-WTB

Give Houston a call, I'm sure they have it

-----Original Message-----
From: Roland Smith [mailto:roland_at_dml_dnai.com] 
Sent: Monday, September 06, 2004 11:33 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Right rear fender lens and trim-WTB



I am interested in purchasing the red lens which in long, thin and
rectangular for the right rear fender.  I also need the trim that fits
between the lens and the rear of the fender.

TIA
Roland Smith
Oakland, California
6667





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Message: 24
Date: Mon, 06 Sep 2004 22:07:08 -0000
From: "endotex23" <endotex23_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Ignition issue- RESOLVED (long)


Mr. Hervey, 

You misunderstood me. I have no doubt you save owners and shops time. 
Nor do I doubt the value of any vendor's tech help to those who need 
it. I was only pointing out that to state a generic part not bought 
from a vendor makes the part incorrect for a particular application 
is a fallacy. It's a very simple car with very simple systems as far 
as cars go. Not to take anything away from your contribution to the 
community but the modification of alternator cores could hardly be 
considered manufacturing. Correct me if wrong but I seriously doubt 
you manufacture plug wires. You may cut to length and terminate but 
probably little more. In addition most of the vendors "manufacture" 
even less than you when it comes to generic parts. My point remains 
valid: Time may be money but there are many non vendor parts that 
will function just fine if one understands the technology.

A few more observations. I fail to see how my not signing a post 
infers anything other than what was stated in the content of the 
post. If you were implying that I was implying time is saved by 
utilizing vendor supplied generic parts than yes, that would be true 
unless the vendor has improperly selected the part. A customer is 
trading his time and money in exchange for the expertise of the 
vendor, a result of the customer's own lack of expertise. This is all 
well and good if the vendor knows more than the customer, which is 
not always the case. It also restricts the customer to the vendor's 
idea of the part's performance. It also depends on which the customer 
values more, his time or money. But to say a customer selected part 
will not function correctly is a sweeping and invalid statement. Such 
parts can often be superior to a vendor's generic part in many ways. 

It also proves the old adage that time may be money but knowledge is 
power. It's up to the each individual to decide which has more value.




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Message: 25
Date: Mon, 06 Sep 2004 22:32:46 -0000
From: "checksix3" <jetjock11_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: hotstart problems

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Me <fleetofworlds_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Note to new owners.The fuel accumulator is not always responsible 
for the car not starting when hot.This problem is also caused by an 
overheted fuel system. 

Hi there. I usually lurk but here is some advice:

The accumulator is only one of a series of devices that maintain rest 
pressure in the fuel system. Maintaining liquid fuel under pressure 
in the system raises the vapor pressure of the fuel and prevents 
common hot start problems. 

If you're forced to ventilate the engine bay to get a hot start after 
changing your accumulator you still have a problem either with rest 
pressure or an unrelated hot start issue. I suggest you measure the 
rest pressure to verify it remains within the specs and time noted in 
the manual. 

As long as rest pressure is maintained there is no typical heat soak 
condition that should cause fuel vaporization and prevent a hot 
start. 

Gary




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