From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2219
Date: Friday, September 10, 2004 4:38 AM

There are 21 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Mode Switch Replacement???..............Advice Please
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

2. Repairing peeling frame epoxy
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>

3. Vendors workshop manuals
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>

4. Re: Replacing the Door Strut
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>

5. RE: Mode Switch Replacement???..............Advice Please
From: "D F" <funkstuf_at_dml_hotmail.com>

6. Re: Replacing the Door Strut
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

7. Re: DeLorean Options - (Ground Effects)
From: "EJ Chambers" <marmieej_at_dml_yahoo.com>

8. Dye Tapping the timing Cover....Help :)
From: "Mike" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>

9. Re: Removing the Dashboard
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

10. RE: Vendors workshop manuals
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

11. Re: Repairing peeling frame epoxy
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

12. Re: Repairing peeling frame epoxy
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

13. Re: Replacing the Door Strut
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

14. Re: Dye Tapping the timing Cover....Help :)
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

15. Re: Replacing the Door Strut
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

16. Re: Replacing the Door Strut
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>

17. Re: Looking for a DMC (Ryan)
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>

18. Re: Vendors workshop manuals
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

19. Cincinnati Tech Session, Final Reminder
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_fuse.net>

20. Re: Replacing the Door Strut
From: "checksix3" <jetjock11_at_dml_hotmail.com>

21. Coolant leak under manifold ... but where?
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_bwig.net>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2004 03:29:38 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Mode Switch Replacement???..............Advice Please

Before you go digging after the mode switch and ordering parts you
might want to make sure you have vacuum on it when the motor is
running. You could have a hose knocked loose, or cut.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, kKoncelik_at_dml_a... wrote:
> take the switch apart and clean and lube it 
> If the diaphram is broken replace it 
> The diaphrams are avail at either PJ Grady or DMC Houston
> 
> Ken




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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2004 04:39:23 -0000
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>
Subject: Repairing peeling frame epoxy

I've got my transmission out for a clutch replacement, and noticed
some of my frame epoxy is missing and peeling under the bellhousing.
There is no rust whatsoever, but I should fix this before I put the
transmission back in on Friday.

Any advice on what to do?

Also, my apologies if I already posted this. I thought I'd posted it
earlier this week but couldn't find my message on the list, so I must
have forgotten to do so.

-Ryan




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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2004 04:41:43 -0000
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>
Subject: Vendors workshop manuals

Are the vendor's workshop manuals as bad as mine? Mine looks
photocopied, and is in a huge three ring binder. Pictures are almost
impossible to see (they look like large black blobs), page numbers are
hard to read and I can't find a decent table of contents. So it's
almost impossible for me to find anything. I have no problem spending
the $50 or so on a new one, so long as it's not just more of the same. I
mean, if I had the last DeLorean on earth I could get by with this
manual, but spending hours digging through it's grimy photocopied
pages for one little sentence of information is not my idea of fun.

Also, does any one vendor have a better manual than the others, or are
they all the same?

Thank you,

-Ryan





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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2004 04:53:25 -0000
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>
Subject: Re: Replacing the Door Strut

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "dmcryder" <dmcryder_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> How difficult is this? looks fairly simple, but no luck yet. Thanks.

I haven't replaced my door struts (previous owner took care of that
shortly before I bought it), but it shouldn't be any different from
the others. You'll probably need to support the doors somehow. The
strut itself should just pop off on the cylinder end if you pull on
it. The shaft end will have a little retaining clip (hard to see, it's
round and sort of wraps around the bulge at the end of the shaft).
Flip that out of the way and pop that end off, too. A good hard pull,
or a few light taps from a hammer right close to each end should do
the trick.

-Ryan




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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2004 06:05:18 +0000
From: "D F" <funkstuf_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Mode Switch Replacement???..............Advice Please

Mike,
You probably don't need to buy a new mode switch.
I just fixed mine last weekend with a rebuild kit from DMC Houston.
It includes the diaphragm and the clip insert.
In my case the insert had broken.. It is made of rigid plastic and if it 
breaks the spring does not hold the diaphragm in.
It takes about an hour to fix.. Just take the console off and the mode 
switch sits directly behind the control.  Make sure all the vacumn lines 
stay on.. It is very clear how to fix it once it's off.

Dale Funk
4984


>From: "Mike" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Mode Switch Replacement???..............Advice Please
>Date: Wed, 08 Sep 2004 09:01:36 -0000
>
>Hi All
>
>Next job on my car is to find out why the heating and ac doesnt
>change to differnent vent positions....the heater fan is running fine
>and blows cold on all speeds but i know i think i am losing vaccumm
>on the main heater air intake as when the system it is running after
>a while the flap closes causing a loud squeel :)...i can hear also
>hear no 'swoosh' noise when i change the mode switch to each position
>
>Any advice before i 'waste' my cash on a new mode switch only to find
>some other problem is causing it ??
>
>Thanks All
>
>Mike
>#2001
>doc403
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>





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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2004 12:23:15 -0000
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Re: Replacing the Door Strut

If you're tall enough, you can do this by yourself.  Remove the 2
clips from the strut, support the door with your arm, and then pop
each end of the strut off of the mounting balls.  Simple.

Matt
#1604


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "dmcryder" <dmcryder_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> How difficult is this? looks fairly simple, but no luck yet. Thanks.




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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2004 12:16:15 -0000
From: "EJ Chambers" <marmieej_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: DeLorean Options - (Ground Effects)

Shannon:

Its an old DW mag. These date back to the 80's. The vendor's name
was/is DeLorean Specialties. The pictures of their side skirts do not
have the word "DeLorean" on the side. The ad also claims that they are
Lotus desgined.

Their address is Philly, PA which could explain Dave S side skirts.

Hope this helps!
Ej
4475

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Both Grady and DMCH offer the side ground effects (I know Grady has
front & back
> as well). They both have air scoops in the sides towards the rear
and also
> "DELOREAN" recessed in the middle. 
> Just like Ron's car... without the carbon fiber inserts: 
> ( http://www.deloreancarshow.com/dcs-2004/2004-wed/IMG_3300.JPG )
> 
> Not sure but I believe they come from the same company: Custom
Fiberglass, New
> Haven CT (203) 776-1341. They made an older style of side skirts
with no-scoop
> and no-recessed "DELOREAN" like Dave Colley's car:
> http://www.entermyworld.com/custom/custclv2kj1x1.jpg
> and now mine (Thanks Kayo!).
> 
> Both Dave Straghand and James LaLonde have side skirts with the air
scoop but no
> "DELOREAN" on their cars. I've asked where they got them but both do
not know the
> original source. What mag and vendor does your ad say they came 
from? Could
> bring some closure to them & their cars.
> 
> Shannon Y
> 16506
> -----------------
> 
> Message: 7         
>    Date: Wed, 08 Sep 2004 00:36:01 -0000
>    From: "EJ Chambers" <marmieej_at_dml_y...>
> Subject: DeLorean Options
> 
> I have been reading some old issues of a DeLorean Mag that I have
> acquired and noticed some of the DeLorean accessories that used to be
> offered. I was wondering if any of these options are still offered by
> any of the DeLorean vendors. 
> 
> Such accessories would include rear spoiler, double wiper blades,
> switch cover that covers the 5 console switches, side skirts with air
> scoops
> 
> Thanks in advance!!
> 
> 
> 	
> 		
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> New and Improved Yahoo! Mail - 100MB free storage!
> http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail




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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2004 07:56:56 -0000
From: "Mike" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>
Subject: Dye Tapping the timing Cover....Help :)

Hi

I need to retap the lower AC belt / pulley arrangement, the threads 
on the lower 7mm hole are stripped and hence as i cant tighten this 
enough i have a slight weep from the blanking plate / gasket behind.

I have never retapped a hole and whilst i have purchased a new tap 
and dye set there are no instructions / advice on how to do this.?

Thinking of putting in a 8mm thread for a new bolt, will i need to 
redrill the hole or am i ok using the existing.......

Thanks All

Mike
#2001




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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2004 12:25:58 -0000
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Re: Removing the Dashboard

Yes, this is difficult.  Mainly because you need to remove a number of
nuts that are not easy to get to.  The one that comes to mind is the
one right in the center of the dash.  Easier to loosen, more difficult
to tighten.  You'll need to remove all of the dash kneepads, the
binnacle, the glove box, and then finally the dash.  Finding the nuts
isn't too difficult, but getting to them with a wrench is.  Go take a
look.

Matt
#1604

 
--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "dmcryder" <dmcryder_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Is this difficult? Any suggestions? Thanks.




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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 08:38:17 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Vendors workshop manuals

Ryan, There were a lot of 2nd, 3rd and 4th generation copies. Ours is from
the original by Copy Max.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/accessories.html



-----Original Message-----
From: ryanpwright [mailto:yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com]
Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 2004 10:42 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Vendors workshop manuals


Are the vendor's workshop manuals as bad as mine? Mine looks
photocopied, and is in a huge three ring binder. Pictures are almost
impossible to see (they look like large black blobs), page numbers are
hard to read and I can't find a decent table of contents. So it's
almost impossible for me to find anything. I have no problem spending
the $50 or so on a new one, so long as it's not just more of the same. I
mean, if I had the last DeLorean on earth I could get by with this
manual, but spending hours digging through it's grimy photocopied
pages for one little sentence of information is not my idea of fun.

Also, does any one vendor have a better manual than the others, or are
they all the same?

Thank you,

-Ryan





To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Yahoo! Groups Links









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2004 14:16:09 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Repairing peeling frame epoxy

Clean it up good with solvent (laquer thinner/acetone). Remove any 
loose epoxy, sand/grind off any rust. Paint with POR15 (best) or 
Rustoleum (distant second best). This is actually a fairly rust-
immune part of the frame because about 90% of the cars leak oil all 
over it. The fact that the epoxy has come of just shows that at some 
point in the past the clutch slave leaked, since this is where it 
drips and it does a good job of softening the epoxy. 

Dave S


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_r...> wrote:
> I've got my transmission out for a clutch replacement, and noticed
> some of my frame epoxy is missing and peeling under the bellhousing.
> There is no rust whatsoever, but I should fix this before I put the
> transmission back in on Friday.
> 
> Any advice on what to do?
> 




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Message: 12
Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2004 14:48:34 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Repairing peeling frame epoxy

You should remove any loose paint. Wire brush the metal, feather the
edges of the paint, and wipe clean. Prime and then paint with Krylon
"Smoke Grey".
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_r...> wrote:
> I've got my transmission out for a clutch replacement, and noticed
> some of my frame epoxy is missing and peeling under the bellhousing.
> There is no rust whatsoever, but I should fix this before I put the
> transmission back in on Friday.
> 
> Any advice on what to do?
> 
> Also, my apologies if I already posted this. I thought I'd posted it
> earlier this week but couldn't find my message on the list, so I must
> have forgotten to do so.
> 
> -Ryan




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2004 15:51:31 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Replacing the Door Strut

Sometimes they don't pop off all that simple. I made up a rig to 
support the door from the sill - highly recommended since the door 
gets heavy very quickly if something goes wrong. 

Dave

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_p...> 
wrote:
> If you're tall enough, you can do this by yourself.  Remove the 2
> clips from the strut, support the door with your arm, and then pop
> each end of the strut off of the mounting balls.  Simple.
> 
> Matt
> #1604
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "dmcryder" <dmcryder_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> > How difficult is this? looks fairly simple, but no luck yet. 
Thanks.




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Message: 14
Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2004 16:18:33 -0000
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Re: Dye Tapping the timing Cover....Help :)

Mike,

Your 8mm tap should be fine if what you currently have is a stripped 
7mm hole.  Just make sure you take your time with it, and move it 
back and forth (dont put it in a drill) to allow the shavings to 
clear.  

Matt
#1604


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Mike" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_b...> wrote:
> Hi
> 
> I need to retap the lower AC belt / pulley arrangement, the 
threads 
> on the lower 7mm hole are stripped and hence as i cant tighten 
this 
> enough i have a slight weep from the blanking plate / gasket 
behind.
> 
> I have never retapped a hole and whilst i have purchased a new tap 
> and dye set there are no instructions / advice on how to do this.?
> 
> Thinking of putting in a 8mm thread for a new bolt, will i need to 
> redrill the hole or am i ok using the existing.......
> 
> Thanks All
> 
> Mike
> #2001




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2004 14:57:20 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Replacing the Door Strut

I don't recomend doing it by holding with your arm. You can get into a
bind if you get one end loose and have trouble with the other. I was
at a show once where we mangled a strut trying to remove the end. We
eventually had to crack it off. Hold the door open with a prop from
the doorsill, NOT THE FLOOR. If the car were to move the prop would
slip out if it was from the floor. A short piece of 2X4 and a hammer
may be required to get the strut off. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE
SMALL CLIPS ON THE ENDS!!!!. Failure to remove the clips will result
in damage to the ball studs and frame. Don't ask a friend to hold the
door open either, it could take a lot longer than you figure. If you
drop a tool or have to get one how can you do that when you are
holding the door up? Sometimes the simplist tasks can get you into big
trouble, work safe.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> If you're tall enough, you can do this by yourself.  Remove the 2
> clips from the strut, support the door with your arm, and then pop
> each end of the strut off of the mounting balls.  Simple.
> 
> Matt
> #1604
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "dmcryder" <dmcryder_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> > How difficult is this? looks fairly simple, but no luck yet. Thanks.




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2004 17:45:25 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>
Subject: Re: Replacing the Door Strut

When removing door struts, make sure to remove the retaining clip
on each end before you attempt to remove the strut from the ball
mount.  Note that your struts may be missing one or more clips.
A small flat screwdriver or long nose pliers may be needed.

As far as removing the strut from the ball mount, I have had good
results using long nose pliers placed under the strut "cup" over
the ball mount area and then pry gentlty while making sure the
door weight is not being supported by the strut.  This rocking
action should remove the strut from the mounting ball and once
the first side is off, repeat the procedure on the other side
of the strut, then repeat both on the other door.

After the struts are removed, clean off the ball mounts, especially
if there is any rust and smear a small dab of grease on the ball 
mount to insure the strut can move freely on the ball mount and it
also helps keep rust from forming during non-use of the doors.

Later,
Rich W.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Sometimes they don't pop off all that simple. I made up a rig to 
> support the door from the sill - highly recommended since the door 
> gets heavy very quickly if something goes wrong. 
> 
> Dave
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_p...> 
> wrote:
> > If you're tall enough, you can do this by yourself.  Remove the 2
> > clips from the strut, support the door with your arm, and then 
pop
> > each end of the strut off of the mounting balls.  Simple.
> > 
> > Matt
> > #1604
> > 
> > 
> > --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "dmcryder" <dmcryder_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> > > How difficult is this? looks fairly simple, but no luck yet. 
> Thanks.




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2004 18:33:40 -0000
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>
Subject: Re: Looking for a DMC (Ryan)

It's hard to say. To start with, the entire brake system, clutch
system, cooling system, and fuel systems, and that assumes it runs
perfectly. I bet you'd sink $5k in parts into it the first couple of
months just to make it somewhat reliable, not even including anything
cosmetic. If you do your own labor it wouldn't be bad, but if not, I
wouldn't touch a car like this with a ten foot pole.

And certainly not at their asking price. 

-Ryan

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Todd Nelson <tan5732_at_dml_r...> wrote:
> Ryan,
> 
> That was my estimation as well.  What do you think would need to be
done to 
> it, given its age.
> 
> Thanks
> Todd
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_r...>
> To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Friday, September 03, 2004 3:31 PM
> Subject: Re: [DML] Looking for a DMC (Andy)
> 
> 
> >
> > Sounds like a project car to me, worth maybe $8,000-$10,000 to someone
> > who wants a cheap D and doesn't mind spending a lot of time fixing
it up.
> >
> > -Ryan
> >
> > --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Todd Nelson <tan5732_at_dml_r...> wrote:
> >> Andy,
> >>
> >> Thanks for the response.  It has been a while since I have driven
> > the car,
> >> about a month and a half, and even that was only for an hour or so.
> > But
> >> I'll try to give you a better idea of what the car was like.
> >>
> > [moderator snip]
> >
> >
> >
> > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> > moderators_at_dml_d...
> >
> > For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> > www.dmcnews.com
> >
> > To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2004 21:02:04 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Vendors workshop manuals

Like John said, there are different revisions to the manual. However,
who knows if these are actually from the factory or not. I have a
manual that sounds exactly the same as the one that you're describing.
I bought it off another DMLer years ago. It's a heinus photo copy with
blacked out pictures, showing someone doing an engine rebuild. It also
has a couple of additions, such as a fold out electrical diagram, and
the templete, and instructions for installing the electric antenna in
the rear. I don't know who compliled this manual, but the copy I have,
has D-1 badging in it. It also didn't come in a 3-ring binder. This
one was in a note book, with paper covers.

I also have the manual from DMC Houston. Theirs' is a much cleaner
copy, but uses clip art from other car makers, when it describes the
engine, etc. Much cleaner, and easier to read, but is made for someone
whom is familiar with car repair already, as has been described in the
past by others. However, I'm still wondering where DMCH got this copy
from. It's not an original, as in a couple of places, there are
handwritten notes in the guide.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_r...> wrote:
> Are the vendor's workshop manuals as bad as mine? Mine looks
> photocopied, and is in a huge three ring binder. Pictures are almost
> impossible to see (they look like large black blobs), page numbers
are
> hard to read and I can't find a decent table of contents. So it's
> almost impossible for me to find anything. I have no problem
spending
> the $50 or so on a new one, so long as it's not just more of the
same. I
> mean, if I had the last DeLorean on earth I could get by with this
> manual, but spending hours digging through it's grimy photocopied
> pages for one little sentence of information is not my idea of fun.
> 
> Also, does any one vendor have a better manual than the others, or
are
> they all the same?
> 
> Thank you,
> 
> -Ryan




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2004 20:49:39 -0400
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_fuse.net>
Subject: Cincinnati Tech Session, Final Reminder

Hey Gang,

Just one last quick reminder about my tech session going on in 
Cincinnati, tomorrow through Sunday.  We will be replacing Mike Luckey's 
frame, installing a new windshield, demonstrating fiberglass repair, 
offering great deals on my collection of used DeLorean parts and of 
course, eating, drinking and just generally having a great DeLorean 
people centered good time!

Hope you can make it!  Contact me off list (jhaldeman(AT)fuse.net) if 
you need directions.

Take care,
Josh
VIN 5102
VIN 15964
VIN 10236 (parts)
VIN 11289 (parts)
VIN 3951 (parts)





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Message: 20
Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2004 23:55:54 -0000
From: "checksix3" <jetjock11_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Replacing the Door Strut


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> 
wrote: Hold the door open with a prop from the doorsill, NOT THE 
FLOOR.<

Fwiw, you know what works great for this? Crutches. They're cheap, 
adjustable, and padded. Fit like a glove too. There must be millions 
of crutches collecting dust in America, just scare a pair (or one) up 
and you'll be all set.





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Message: 21
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 21:47:21 -0500
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_bwig.net>
Subject: Coolant leak under manifold ... but where?

I have a coolant leak under the intake manifold.  I've pulled the manifold
out but the leak is not obvious.
The following are still installed so I may have missed something:
- The 2 rubber hoses seem OK
- The "Y" pipe is in fine shape
- The straight pipe shows some rust but nothing obvious

Does anyone have any words of wisdom that may focus me in the right
direction?

Thanks,  ... still trying to get it running for Sunday's get together:-(

Nick




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