From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2221
Date: Saturday, September 11, 2004 9:27 PM


There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Motor Tick (was Looking for a DMC (Ryan))
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

2. Re: What the hell is going on here...my shift cable MELTED?
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

3. RE: DMC (Texas) Workshop (and other) manuals
From: "Sean Manning" <sean_at_dml_manninghome.net>

4. Re: What the hell is going on here...my shift cable MELTED?
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

5. AW: What the hell is going on here...my shift cable MELTED?
From: "Ralf Philipp" <enteklemmer_at_dml_web.de>

6. DMC Houston - You are the greatest!
From: "Stian Birkeland" <delorean_at_dml_netcom.no>

7. Water Pump replacement and Penetrating OIl
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com

8. Re: What the hell is going on here...my shift cable MELTED?
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

9. RE: PIGEON FORGE VIDEOS ARE HERE!!!!!! PIGEON FORGE VIDEOS ARE HERE!!!!!!
From: Aaron Crocco <acrocco_at_dml_gmail.com>

10. Re: What the hell is going on here...my shift cable MELTED?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

11. Re: Re: hotstart problems
From: Me <fleetofworlds_at_dml_yahoo.com>

12. RE: Coolant leak under manifold ... but where?
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>

13. Re: DMC (Texas) Workshop (and other) manuals
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

14. RE: Re: Speaker wire
From: Jan van de Wouw <delorean_at_dml_home.nl>

15. Re: What the hell is going on here...my shift cable MELTED?
From: Jan van de Wouw <delorean_at_dml_home.nl>

16. Evaluating a Delorean
From: "deloreanz" <deloreanz_at_dml_yahoo.com>

17. automatic transmission problems
From: "gert christensen" <ingegert_at_dml_mail.tele.dk>

18. HELP ME
From: "painterdave72" <painterdave72_at_dml_yahoo.com>

19. Re: Looking for a DMC (Ryan)
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>

20. Re: Coolant leak under manifold ... but where?
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

21. Re: PIGEON FORGE VIDEOS ARE HERE!!!!!!
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

22. RE: RE: PIGEON FORGE VIDEOS ARE HERE!!!!!! PIGEON FORGE VIDEOS ARE HERE!!!!!!
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

23. 6585 Back on the road!
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

24. Re: What the hell is going on here...my shift cable MELTED?
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

25. Re: RE: PIGEON FORGE VIDEOS ARE HERE!!!!!! PIGEON FORGE VIDEOS ARE HERE!!!!!!
From: "Payne" <bpayne_at_dml_macnet.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2004 04:00:01 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Motor Tick (was Looking for a DMC (Ryan))

Bad connecting rod journals or pins don't really "tick" or "click" --
they "bang" and "knock".

Little noises are usually rocker arms tapping against valve stems. On
some engines, like the PRV, excessive lash can be adjusted out.

Note that valve tap can also be caused by the PRV's indirect
lubrication system. Oil does not wash over the rocker arm/valve stem
interfaces, but rather is slung against them by rotating camshaft
lobes. Viscosity problems, low oil pressure (caused by leakage after
the sending unit, such as timing chain tensioners), and gummed up
orifices will exacerbate the problem.

While we're on the subject: there's an urban legend about "soft" B27
camshafts, corrected in the B28. This is nonsense -- both are made of
the same hardened materials (were actually three different lobe
combinations). Volvo *NEVER* mentioned changes in camshaft
composition. What they *DID* mention in a 1984 Service Bulletin was to
discontinue use of grade SE oil in lieu of SF, and to substitute 10W30
oil for the 10W40 recommended in earlier owner's manuals. Basically
it's an attempt to overcome oiling weaknesses endemic to all PRV's
with increased detergents and lower viscosity. Some Volvo owners also
feel the oil return passages are too small (same size between B27 and
B28 BTW) and drill them larger.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Mike Substelny <msubstel_at_dml_l...> wrote:
> When I first heard a motor tick from my DeLorean I thought it was a rod 
> problem, too.  It turned out to be just a leaky exhaust manifold 
> gasket.  Replacing them is not easy, but the job is much cheaper than 
> the engine rebuild I thought I needed.
> 
> The exhaust manifold gasket is a pretty common failure point in 
> DeLoreans, and to this day I am amazed at the awful sound made by any 
> DeLorean afflicted with this problem.  It really does sound like moving 
> engine parts smashing into each other in ways never intended by PRV.  
> You'd think the engine was tearing itself apart.
> 
> I might be wrong, but if I am right this DeLorean can be purring like a 
> kitten for $30 in parts and one day of hard work.
> 
> - Mike Substelny
> VIN 1280, 10 wonderful years
> 
> Wizard wrote:
> 
> >Ryan:
> >
> >I missed your previous e-mails.  I may be selling my 81 Delorean if
I an
> >successful at purchasing another one next week.  The reason I am
selling
> >it is because someone painted it red.  If runs o.k., has a loud tick,
> >probably the rods.  It has had quite a bit of work done to it and I was
> >going to used another one I have that is smashed as a donor car. 
Plus I
> >have an extra engine and block that I will sell with the red one.
> >Besides being red and the motor tick, the trans seems fine, new brakes,
> >etc.  Let me know if you are interested and I will keep you on my list.
> >Like I said, if I do not get this other car, which does not run and
> >needs an entire engine, then I will probably not sell.
> >
> >Jason
> >  
> >




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2004 04:15:05 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: What the hell is going on here...my shift cable MELTED?

I'd suspect a dead short. Somewhere along the line you probably
accidentially grounded the starter motor supply line to the block. Why
it manifested itself there I do not know. Just be glad your battery
didn't explode.

BTW: most people jump the solenoid trigger with a piece of little
wire, not the big lines in & out themselves (starter motor pulls
tremendous amperage straight from the battery. Very painful).

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> Yes, that's right folks.  Remember the other day I was talking about 
> all that smoke I saw when I was trying to start my car with a 
> wrench?  It turns out that it was the shift cable melting.  I found 
> this out when I tried to wiggle the shift lever and it wouldn't 
> budge.  So, I take a look underneath my car, and the black part of 
> the manual transmission shift cable is all bubbled up and melted.  
> What the HELL just happened here?????  BTW, I'm still trying to 
> remove the shift cable, as it's not coming out easily.
> 
> 
> Matt
> #1604 - the cursed car




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2004 21:31:32 -0700
From: "Sean Manning" <sean_at_dml_manninghome.net>
Subject: RE: DMC (Texas) Workshop (and other) manuals

Are there any plans to offer the Technical Information Manual in a screen
printed 3-ring binder so that it too can look nice on a shelf in the garage?

Sean

-----Original Message-----
From: James Espey [mailto:james_at_dml_usadmc.com] 
Sent: Friday, September 10, 2004 1:39 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] DMC (Texas) Workshop (and other) manuals

...

All of the above manuals are sold with screen printed, high quality
three-ring binders. Over the years we've found that they work best for
manuals of this size, and they certainly look nice on a shelf in your
garage.

The "Technical Information Manual" was given to the service techs as a
"primer" to the DeLorean systems and is a good guide for getting started.
Again, reproduced from a new, original copy. This one is in a spiral comb
type of binding.

...

James

------------------------------------
DeLorean Motor Company
Vice President
james_at_dml_delorean.com
15023 Eddie Drive
Humble, Texas 77396 USA
tel: 800/872-3621
tel2:281/441-2537
fax: 281/441-2813
http://www.delorean.com
------------------------------------

---
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moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2004 04:36:00 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: What the hell is going on here...my shift cable MELTED?

Matthew - This is just a shot in the dark, but did you remember to 
attach all of the grounds for the engine when you put it back in?  
If the ground straps weren't there, the electricity is going to do 
what it can to find a way through.  Perhaps it found the shift cable 
and tried to use it as a ground path?  A poor ground pathway would 
have a relatively high resistance, which would lead to high heat in 
the presence of the kind of amperage that you'd have during the 
starting phase.  Can you identify where the cable is hanging up 
during the attempted removals?  Based on the above theory, I'm going 
to guess that the outer jacket is melted and fused to some piece of 
the frame that became the electrical contact point.  You'll probably 
need a replacement shift cable (101363).

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_p...> 
wrote:
> Yes, that's right folks.  Remember the other day I was talking 
about all that smoke I saw when I was trying to start my car with a 
> wrench?  It turns out that it was the shift cable melting.  I 
found this out when I tried to wiggle the shift lever and it 
wouldn't budge.  So, I take a look underneath my car, and the black 
part of the manual transmission shift cable is all bubbled up and 
melted.  What the HELL just happened here?????  BTW, I'm still 
trying to remove the shift cable, as it's not coming out easily.





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2004 12:32:44 +0200
From: "Ralf Philipp" <enteklemmer_at_dml_web.de>
Subject: AW: What the hell is going on here...my shift cable MELTED?

probably your ground connection to the motor is bad. So the current found
its way over the shift cable.

Check your motor ground connection and replace your shift cable, then
everything should be fine.

bye,
Ralf.
VIN10284

-----Ursprüngliche Nachricht-----
Von:
sentto-1154320-36798-1094873181-enteklemmer=web.de_at_dml_returns.groups.yahoo.
com
[mailto:sentto-1154320-36798-1094873181-enteklemmer=web.de_at_dml_returns.group
s.yahoo.com]Im Auftrag von Matt Spittle
Gesendet: Samstag, 11. September 2004 03:35
An: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Betreff: [DML] What the hell is going on here...my shift cable MELTED?


Yes, that's right folks.  Remember the other day I was talking about
all that smoke I saw when I was trying to start my car with a
wrench?  It turns out that it was the shift cable melting.  I found
this out when I tried to wiggle the shift lever and it wouldn't
budge.  So, I take a look underneath my car, and the black part of
the manual transmission shift cable is all bubbled up and melted.
What the HELL just happened here?????  BTW, I'm still trying to
remove the shift cable, as it's not coming out easily.


Matt
#1604 - the cursed car




To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2004 13:27:34 +0200
From: "Stian Birkeland" <delorean_at_dml_netcom.no>
Subject: DMC Houston - You are the greatest!

Just got the monthly newsletter from DMC Houston.
All I can say is "wow" - this time there are really some new goodies!

140mph speedo
Trip Reset Shaft
Rheostat Stop

and of course - the pre-order option for new light switches which we have all heard about by now.

Thanks for keeping the Dream alive!

Best wishes
Stian Birkeland
Norway

VIN # 06759




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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2004 09:06:33 EDT
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Water Pump replacement and Penetrating OIl

I will be replacing my water pump soon and want to know  if there are any 
bolts I have to be extra careful with.
 
Should I use penetrating oil and if so what  kind.
 
Is it ok to use / run the car after applying the oil or  will that make it 
worse by "baking it in"?
 
Dave and 6530


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 8
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2004 13:41:33 -0000
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Re: What the hell is going on here...my shift cable MELTED?

Bill,

Have you ever measured the resistance between the HOT wires and 
ground in the car, with the battery disconnected from the circuit?  
On my car, this comes out to about 1 ohm.  Does this seem right?  
Consider the door lights, along with whatever else is "always on."

Matt
#1604


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> 
wrote:
> I'd suspect a dead short. Somewhere along the line you probably
> accidentially grounded the starter motor supply line to the block. 
Why
> it manifested itself there I do not know. Just be glad your battery
> didn't explode.
> 
> BTW: most people jump the solenoid trigger with a piece of little
> wire, not the big lines in & out themselves (starter motor pulls
> tremendous amperage straight from the battery. Very painful).
> 
> Bill Robertson
> #5939
> 
> >--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_p...> 
wrote:
> > Yes, that's right folks.  Remember the other day I was talking 
about 
> > all that smoke I saw when I was trying to start my car with a 
> > wrench?  It turns out that it was the shift cable melting.  I 
found 
> > this out when I tried to wiggle the shift lever and it wouldn't 
> > budge.  So, I take a look underneath my car, and the black part 
of 
> > the manual transmission shift cable is all bubbled up and 
melted.  
> > What the HELL just happened here?????  BTW, I'm still trying to 
> > remove the shift cable, as it's not coming out easily.
> > 
> > 
> > Matt
> > #1604 - the cursed car




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2004 09:46:16 -0400
From: Aaron Crocco <acrocco_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: RE: PIGEON FORGE VIDEOS ARE HERE!!!!!! PIGEON FORGE VIDEOS ARE HERE!!!!!!

While I think it's great that people can take the skills they have to
create quality things, I can't see how it's something to charge $20
for.  I understand your time is worth something, but I can't imagine
your cost of manufacturing is even close to this number.  I'm also
sure there is a S&H charge on top of the $20.  Bottom line, I really
don't agree with this.  I guess I should delete my PF MPEG's before I
get sued or something.  :-p

-Aaron Crocco
VIN 5591



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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2004 15:15:25 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: What the hell is going on here...my shift cable MELTED?

As suggested you are probably missing the ground connection from the
motor to the frame and the battery. When you forget to put the cable
back I have seen it melt throttle cables (on other make cars)and
little wires when the heavy current seeks any path it can.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757  


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Ralf Philipp" <enteklemmer_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> probably your ground connection to the motor is bad. So the current
found
> its way over the shift cable.
> 
> Check your motor ground connection and replace your shift cable, then
> everything should be fine.
> 
> bye,
> Ralf.
> VIN10284
> 
> -----Ursprüngliche Nachricht-----
> Von:
> sentto-1154320-36798-1094873181-enteklemmer=web.de_at_dml_r...
> com
> [mailto:sentto-1154320-36798-1094873181-enteklemmer=web.de_at_dml_r...
> s.yahoo.com]Im Auftrag von Matt Spittle
> Gesendet: Samstag, 11. September 2004 03:35
> An: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Betreff: [DML] What the hell is going on here...my shift cable MELTED?
> 
> 
> Yes, that's right folks.  Remember the other day I was talking about
> all that smoke I saw when I was trying to start my car with a
> wrench?  It turns out that it was the shift cable melting.  I found
> this out when I tried to wiggle the shift lever and it wouldn't
> budge.  So, I take a look underneath my car, and the black part of
> the manual transmission shift cable is all bubbled up and melted.
> What the HELL just happened here?????  BTW, I'm still trying to
> remove the shift cable, as it's not coming out easily.
> 
> 
> Matt
> #1604 - the cursed car
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_d...
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2004 08:58:18 -0700 (PDT)
From: Me <fleetofworlds_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: hotstart problems



As long as rest pressure is maintained there is no typical heat soak 
condition that-- >(should)<-- cause fuel vaporization and prevent a hot 
start. 

 

We can argue that something shouldnt happen all day long.However even when the proper rest pressure is maintained the problem still exsists .So you can go by the book all day long and quote specs till your blue in the face but dont cry to me when you get stranded somewhere.Heat soak is a constant problem with Deloreans and Fiats.I have installed cooling shrouds on several cars with excellent results.I also point out that ford uses fuel injector cooling shrouds on several of its vehicles.








__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2004 09:20:33 -0700 (PDT)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Coolant leak under manifold ... but where?

For any car that has the original hoses under the
manifold, it is always a good idea to take the
manifold off and fix everything at once including all
rubber seals and rings.  Everyone saw the web site
with the crap that was waiting to be found under
there.  


"nobody has time to do it right, but everybody has
time to do it again"

jordan
11613
 



--- Video Bob <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com> wrote:

> I can vouch for this, I just had to replace ALL of
> the hoses and connectors 
> that was part of my heater hoses system, it is
> easier to replace the whole 
> nest of them in one piece that to try to
> do them one by one.
> 
> Sometimes you can develop a tiny crack that has a
> pinhole, and under 
> pressure the fluid can squirt
> several feet away and pool up somewhere else.
> 
> I once had a bad oil leak in an old Pontiac GrandAM
> of mine, one side of the 
> engine and tranny was covered in oil, sopping wet. I
> showed it to a mechanic 
> who told me that it was the main seal
> and that I would have to spend over $1000 to fix it.
> So, I let it leak. I would just put a quart of oil
> in it everyday.
> I never bothered to changed the oil filter or the
> oil because hell, it 
> always had fresh oil in it! Right?
> One day when the car was running, I dropped a tool
> and it of course ran all 
> the way to the center
> of under the car. While crawling under there to get
> it I noticed that there 
> was a tiny little stream
> of oil squirting from a pinhole on the side of the
> oil filter onto the top 
> of the transmission.
> HOLY CRAP! For the last few months I had been
> wasting money and oil on a car 
> I thought was
> doomed and all it needed was a friggin $3 oil
> filter!!!!!
> I changed the filter and it never leaked a drop.
> 
> Something similar could be your problem, and you
> will want to change all of 
> your hoses in one shot.
> You can get a pre-assembled kit from John Hervey.
> You first have to heat up your engine and poke your
> head in there and see if 
> you can spot the leak.
> Once you determine that it is your heater hoses, you
> need to change them.
> ...and if they have never been changed, then you
> need to anyway.
> 
> There is only one way to do it.
> First off all you need a set of skinny hands.
> I had to get my brother to help because my bear paws
> would'nt fit in there.
> You have to remove your louvers and your deck lid.
> Then I put a blanket over the engine and both sides
> of the pontoon,
> then I cut a piece of plywood so that it fit
> directly over top the engine 
> and pontoon.
> This way you can climb up on top with your knees and
> reach down behind the 
> engine.
> The hardest part is getting a little stubby
> screwdriver down there and 
> getting the hose clamp loose.
> The other end runs down into the frame under a
> cover.
> 
> The only other way is to remove the who intake, and
> really that is not much 
> better because
> the hose connection to the engine is underneath the
> distributor and you 
> can't take that off,
> so you might as well do it the way I suggested.
> 
> Been there, done that.
> - Videobob
> VIN#5278
> 
> 
> 
> 
> >From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
> >Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> >To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
> >Subject: RE: [DML] Coolant leak under manifold ...
> but where?
> >Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2004 00:08:47 -0500
> >
> >Nick, Remember, That when the coolant heats up it's
> under 15lb's of 
> >pressure
> >and then coolant will find a place to leak out
> since it's thinner than
> >water. Also there are 2 O rings under the internal
> Y pipe. Coolant will 
> >also
> >leak at times around the connections on the side of
> the water pump,the 
> >large
> >hoses since the openings aren't round but oval. You
> can see that on the web
> >site.
> >John Hervey
> >www.specialtauto.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: Nick Kemp [mailto:nkemp_at_dml_bwig.net]
> >Sent: Thursday, September 09, 2004 8:47 PM
> >To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> >Subject: [DML] Coolant leak under manifold ... but
> where?
> >
> >
> >I have a coolant leak under the intake manifold. 
> I've pulled the manifold
> >out but the leak is not obvious.
> >The following are still installed so I may have
> missed something:
> >- The 2 rubber hoses seem OK
> >- The "Y" pipe is in fine shape
> >- The straight pipe shows some rust but nothing
> obvious
> >
> >Does anyone have any words of wisdom that may focus
> me in the right
> >direction?
> >
> >Thanks,  ... still trying to get it running for
> Sunday's get together:-(
> >
> >Nick
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> >moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> >
> >For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
> >
> >To search the archives or view files, log in at
> >http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> >Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> >moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> >
> >For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
> >
> >To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> >http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> >Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
>     dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> 
> 
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Message: 13
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2004 16:35:59 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: DMC (Texas) Workshop (and other) manuals

That's great to hear that everything is getting properly updated. 
However, I do have one small request. Could you please print extra 
binders this time? To keep things clean, I placed the pages of my 
workshop manual into plastic sheet protectors. But because the 
sleeves are so much larger, I had to split my Workshop Manual into 
two volumes.

I'd like to keep everything as professional looking as possible, with 
matching binders. But you guys don't seem to have any extras in 
stock, and I know that I can't be the only person out there who's 
using the sheet protectors.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "James Espey" <james_at_dml_u...> wrote:
> The quality of the manuals available for the DeLorean has long been
> something I have noticed and bothered about. I was the one, who 
back in the
> early days of the DML, recreated the parts manual in PDF format 
that is
> available for download at the DMC-News website.
> 
> Just in the last month or two, we've completely revised the parts 
manual,
> with changes on nearly every page ranging from correcting 
illustrations to...
<SNIP>




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Message: 14
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2004 20:08:52 +0200
From: Jan van de Wouw <delorean_at_dml_home.nl>
Subject: RE: Re: Speaker wire

Sorry on responding a week late, but I've been out quite
a lot and just went through about 30 DML-digests...

On Sat, 04 Sep 2004 22:43:52 -0400, "Ed Garbade" wrote:

> Replaced both front speakers and they worked fine.
> But think my radio is on the way out.  Right channel
> is weak on front and rear.

Check if the Common Ground is still connected to the radio,
if not, you will only hear the difference in output between
front and rear. You don't need to pull the console for this,
just turn the Balance all te way to the right and play with
the Fader-control. if the common ground is loose at some point
you'll have no sound at all...

JAN van de Wouw

Thinking Different...   Using a Mac...
Living the Dream...   Driving a DeLorean...

#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
--------------------------------




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Message: 15
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2004 20:12:54 +0200
From: Jan van de Wouw <delorean_at_dml_home.nl>
Subject: Re: What the hell is going on here...my shift cable MELTED?

On Sat, 11 Sep 2004 01:35:22 -0000, "Matt Spittle" wrote:

> Yes, that's right folks.  Remember the other day I was
> talking about  all that smoke I saw when I was trying
> to start my car with a wrench?  It turns out that it
> was the shift cable melting.

Check the ground-strap between the frame and the engine.

I've seen this befor on someone elses car; he had had the
engine out and forgot to put the strap back in.
Car would turn over VERY slowly and fionaly started to
smell funny. Turned out the only ground it still had was
through the shift-cable, as the engine is on rubber mounts...

Expensive learning curve at allmost $100,-
he'll NEVER forget the ground strap ever again :o)

JAN van de Wouw

Thinking Different...   Using a Mac...
Living the Dream...   Driving a DeLorean...

#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
--------------------------------




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Message: 16
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2004 19:11:37 -0000
From: "deloreanz" <deloreanz_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Evaluating a Delorean

Hi, if anyone would be so kind as to help me evaluate a Delorean I'm 
considering, I would appriciate it very much.  I have several large 
res pics of the different important areas of the car, and pertinent 
info regarding its mechanical/cosmetic history.  I would be 
particularly interested in cruznmd's opinion since he was so nice as 
to take time and help me look at a Delorean previously.  And of 
course, I would also appriciate help from those w/ advanced 
technical knowlege of the Delorean.  I have done my own evaluation 
based on info I've read, but would like others' opinions.  Thanks,

perferably reply to my new email:  deloreanz_at_dml_gmail.com

Bryan




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Message: 17
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2004 21:14:27 +0200
From: "gert christensen" <ingegert_at_dml_mail.tele.dk>
Subject: automatic transmission problems

hey group

After engine swap, today I put it back in the car. Everything works fine, except
the transmission
reverse is working , parking is ok, neutral is ok, 1st "hold" is ok, 2nd "hold"
is working and shift ok, but drive is total dead (just like neutral). Before the
engine swap, I have never had transmission problems.

any suggestions ????????

gert  win 2884
denmark


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 18
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2004 19:33:01 -0000
From: "painterdave72" <painterdave72_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: HELP ME

Hello i am new to this forum but others have recommended it... I am having a 
problem with my car where it is hesitating until about 2000 rpms then u can 
feel it kick in and have all sorts of power.. I spoke to Many people including 
Rob Grady who seems to this it is the fuel distributor going bad.. I took it off 
and cleaned all the openings cause if u look in there u can see little fiters 
where the lines hook up and they looked dirty.. this seemed to help alot but it 
still does it and is backfires in the exhaust when u let off the gas i do have a 
free flow exhaust with headers though... but this problem is recent i just did an 
entire top end engine rebuild during the winteer a bout six months ago... all 
new sensors under the manifold new water pump new warm up regulator all 
new cap and rotor, nologys new wire and plug and coil booster kit.. and a new 
coil  there was a loose big black ground wire in the coil box which i tighted 
which also seemed to help but the problem is still there.. What is going on 
here???? could it be  the fuel dist going bad??? any one else have this 
problem ever???? I do have all the original relays in the car still havent gotten 
around to replacing them yet... Any help would  be appreciated.. oh yeah it 
does spit sparks out of the exhaust sometimes when u let off the gas and 
pops... Thanks. Dave.




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Message: 19
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2004 20:30:53 -0000
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>
Subject: Re: Looking for a DMC (Ryan)

You must have me confused with somebody else. I am not looking for a
DeLorean... I already have a very nice one. :)

-Ryan

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Wizard" <wizard_at_dml_t...> wrote:
> Ryan:
> 
> I missed your previous e-mails.  I may be selling my 81 Delorean if I an
> successful at purchasing another one next week.  The reason I am selling
> it is because someone painted it red.  If runs o.k., has a loud tick,
> probably the rods.  It has had quite a bit of work done to it and I was
> going to used another one I have that is smashed as a donor car.  Plus I
> have an extra engine and block that I will sell with the red one.
> Besides being red and the motor tick, the trans seems fine, new brakes,
> etc.  Let me know if you are interested and I will keep you on my list.
> Like I said, if I do not get this other car, which does not run and
> needs an entire engine, then I will probably not sell.
> 
> Jason
> 
> P.S. -- I have more history on the car as well that I can give you
> 
> P.S.S. -- Depending on how much I spend on the other DeLorean, I would
> probably want around $6000 obo.
> 
> P.S.S.S. -- Check out http://www.sk1pper.com/paint_removal.htm  (not a
> typo, it is a "1")




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Message: 20
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2004 21:28:38 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Coolant leak under manifold ... but where?

Yeah, but the fun doesn't stop there! You'll also want to pull, and 
scrub any, and all gunk off the temperature probes in the Y-pipe, and 
you'll want to buy about 10'-12' of vacuum hose, to replace the 
almost quarter century old lines that are there. And, you'll need a 
shop vac to suck everything out (damn this desert sand gets 
everywhere!).

What can also complicate things, is if you have a vacuum leak before, 
and you car was tuned with it. If so, then once you seal everything 
as you put it back together, it may need to be retuned.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:
> For any car that has the original hoses under the
> manifold, it is always a good idea to take the
> manifold off and fix everything at once including all
> rubber seals and rings.  Everyone saw the web site
> with the crap that was waiting to be found under
> there.  
> 
> 
> "nobody has time to do it right, but everybody has
> time to do it again"
> 
> jordan
> 11613




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Message: 21
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2004 14:45:24 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: PIGEON FORGE VIDEOS ARE HERE!!!!!!

You were shooting to SELL a video?  I thought it was
for your own personal use.

I don't recall seeing any release forms.

--- Robert Moseley <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com> wrote:
<SNIP>
> Thanks to everyone who participated in the video and
> I hope you
> are happy with them.
<SNIP>

__________________________________________________
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 22
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2004 16:36:41 -0500
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: RE: PIGEON FORGE VIDEOS ARE HERE!!!!!! PIGEON FORGE VIDEOS ARE HERE!!!!!!

Are you kidding me?
$20 for TWO, two hour DVD's?
First of all, FREE shipping.
Secondly, these are TWO DVD's, each over 2 hours long, with thermal image 
printing on them
(not a sticky ink jet printed lable), and a full color sleeve in a double 
sided case, shirnk wrapped and
shipped....

I knew that there would be somebody out there to yank my chain on this, 
because there
is one in every bunch who expects something for nothing.

Never mind the cost of production.
Let's consider the 12 hours of tape I shot ($5 per cassette),
that means there was over 12 hours of digitizing, and then over 25 hours of 
editing,
then hour after hour of rendering, compressing to MPEG2 and then creating 
the perfect
bitrate to get all this onto 2 DVD's, building the menus, rendering them and 
then burning the
discs at a very time consuming 20 munites each.
I already have over 40 hours of time in this already.
I make about $100K per year, so that breaks down to about $50 per hour or 
something?
So by that math I have $2000 of my time into these, plus materials.

My company might have charged over $10,000 for this service if contracted to 
do it for a client.
I have over $100K worth of television production equipment to do this stuff.
It's not some fly-by-night crap.

Usually a special interest video would cost you at least $50 or more for a 
sloppy 20 minute TAPE.
Any special interest video on anything at a specialty store woulc cost you 
at least $20.00.

I think you should sell that Delorean and get something like a Chevette.
These are elite exotic cars made for people with higher standards.
If $20 for a video is breaking your bank then you need to move onto another 
hobby.

For the rest of the people out there who know a good bargain when they see 
it,
and live for the moment and want a Delorean video they will treasure 
always....

http://dfwdmc.com/store_dvd.html

- Videobob



>From: Aaron Crocco <acrocco_at_dml_gmail.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: DML <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
>Subject: [DML] RE: PIGEON FORGE VIDEOS ARE HERE!!!!!! PIGEON FORGE VIDEOS 
>ARE HERE!!!!!!
>Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2004 09:46:16 -0400
>
>
>While I think it's great that people can take the skills they have to
>create quality things, I can't see how it's something to charge $20
>for.  I understand your time is worth something, but I can't imagine
>your cost of manufacturing is even close to this number.  I'm also
>sure there is a S&H charge on top of the $20.  Bottom line, I really
>don't agree with this.  I guess I should delete my PF MPEG's before I
>get sued or something.  :-p
>
>-Aaron Crocco
>VIN 5591
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>





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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 23
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2004 22:10:07 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: 6585 Back on the road!

Well, my car is now back on the road!

The massive coolant leak was a bad O-ring on the Y-pipe, and a 
dribble from the surge tank hose. Not a bad head gasket, as 
previously thought. Where the water from the oil came from, I don't 
know. Compression tests all came out fine, and the cooling system 
held 15lbs steady, for over 10 minutes. I can only guess that the 
loose hoses on the engine, and the vacuum leaks sucked in water spray 
last winter, when I hit the flood water.

I also sealed up all my vacuum leaks, and cured my hot start issue. 
But at a price. When I disassembled the Primary Pressure Regulator, I 
discovered that instead of having a flat washer, I was entirely 
missing the rubber seal! ( http://specialtauto.com/delorean-
parts/images/fuel-prim-pressure-reg-plun.jpg ) So while my hot start 
has essentially gone away, my car is out of tune. For the time being, 
I've disconnected the LAMBDA probe, and I've tuned the motor by ear 
(a litte rich, I can feel). I'm going to try the idea mentioned, of 
shoving a washer in, to wedge the air flow meter, and turn the CO 
screw until the fuel injector cracks. If that works, great! If not, 
then it's off to the mechanic, so I can hook up to his exhaust gas 
analyzer.

As an added bonus, I fixed my front mail seal leak. The breather was 
clogged with gunk. So I pulled out the mesh/chain mail inside, 
dropped it into some chem dip (dissolving everything withing a 
minute), reassembled, and shoved back in. No more excess crankcase 
pressure, and no more leak!

One of the biggest tools that I had help me, that I would reccomend 
to anyone performing a water pump replacement or any other work is 
simple: Sharpie marker & baggies. Pull it off, shove it in a bag, and 
label it. A digital camera, and masking tape can help too. But I 
didn't rely on them as much as I thought I would.

Thanks to everyone here who helped me out with their knowlege. I do 
appriciate it! I now have a car that doesn't need a weekly coolant 
refil (only recently became that bad), and starts instantly (almost)! 
And, I feel much more relieved that not only have I replaced the 
hoses and waterpump, but that I have now completed the task itself!

Thanks again!

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 24
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2004 23:31:59 -0000
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Re: What the hell is going on here...my shift cable MELTED?

Once again my powdercoating kit has gotten me into trouble.  I did 
not *forget* the engine-->frame ground strap, but since my motor 
mounts are powdercoated, the strap did very little to provide a 
ground.  So, I did as I read that Dave Sontos did, and I grounded 
directly from the battery connection to the bellhousing.  That outta 
fix 'er!

Can anyone help me figure out how to remove the nut holding the shift 
cable to the frame???  There's a very large one directly underneath 
the console buttons, and it seems impossible to get at it.

thanks,

Matt
#1604






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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 25
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2004 18:23:20 -0700
From: "Payne" <bpayne_at_dml_macnet.com>
Subject: Re: RE: PIGEON FORGE VIDEOS ARE HERE!!!!!! PIGEON FORGE VIDEOS ARE HERE!!!!!!

Mr. Moseley actually said that there would be no shipping charge on top of
the DVD price. I'm not sure but I believe he doesn't charge shipping on any
of the stuff you buy from him. I don't think that $20 is too much when you
consider that it's two discs and around 4 hours of content. If anything,
that's almost too much content. I've paid much more buying a few TV shows on
DVD.

He does need to make it somewhat profitable to be worth his time. If people
like the quality then maybe he'll put together another one for the next
Delorean Car Show.

payne
#2975



>
> While I think it's great that people can take the skills they have to
> create quality things, I can't see how it's something to charge $20
> for.  I understand your time is worth something, but I can't imagine
> your cost of manufacturing is even close to this number.  I'm also
> sure there is a S&H charge on top of the $20.  Bottom line, I really
> don't agree with this.  I guess I should delete my PF MPEG's before I
> get sued or something.  :-p
>
> -Aaron Crocco
> VIN 5591
>
>



---
[This E-mail Scanned for viruses by Onlinemac.com]




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