From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2223
Date: Sunday, September 12, 2004 8:47 PM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: RE: PIGEON FORGE VIDEOS ARE HERE!!!!!! PIGEON FORGE VIDEOS ARE HERE...
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

2. Re: Owners Going to LV
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>

3. Re: RE: PIGEON FORGE VIDEOS ARE HERE!!!!!! PIGEON FORGE VIDEOS ARE HERE!!!!!!
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

4. Re: PIGEON FORGE VIDEOS ARE HERE!!!!!! PIGEON FORGE VIDEOS ARE HERE!!!!!!
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

5. Re: HELP ME
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

6. Re: hotstart problems
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

7. Brakes
From: fred lockett <delorean_pilot_at_dml_yahoo.com>

8. RE: Headlight Switch Reproductions
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

9. Italian CarFest in Grapevine Texas
From: "Robert Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

10. Charcoal canister
From: "usndmc" <usndmc_at_dml_yahoo.com>

11. Re: RE: PIGEON FORGE VIDEOS ARE HERE!!!!!! PIGEON FORGE VIDEOS ARE HERE!!!!!!
From: Aaron Crocco <acrocco_at_dml_gmail.com>

12. I am now an owner
From: Aaron Crocco <acrocco_at_dml_gmail.com>

13. Re: Water Pump replacement and Penetrating OIl
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

14. Re: HELP ME
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

15. Re: automatic transmission problems
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

16. Re: Re: HELP ME
From: david hudgins <painterdave72_at_dml_yahoo.com>

17. Re: Brakes
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

18. Re: Brakes
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

19. RE: Brakes
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

20. Re: Keys
From: "trekkerlb" <TrekkerLB_at_dml_Netzero.Com>

21. RE: RE: PIGEON FORGE VIDEOS ARE HERE!!!!!! PIGEON FORGE VIDEOS ARE HERE!!!!!!
From: "Joe Thome" <joethome_at_dml_jps.net>

22. Re: HELP ME
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

23. Scotch Brite Pads
From: "EJ Chambers" <marmieej_at_dml_yahoo.com>

24. Re: Charcoal canister
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

25. 108388 Headlight Switch (update)
From: "james" <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2004 22:33:19 EDT
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: RE: PIGEON FORGE VIDEOS ARE HERE!!!!!! PIGEON FORGE VIDEOS ARE HERE...

I am going to stick up for Video Bob on this one.
 
We do a lot of editing for the shows and it does take hours and hours of  
time to do it. Although I have not seen the videos yet I am sure the footage Bob  
took and decided to use is really detailed ( I actually told him to cut out  
more than he did by 2 hours) 
 
The dvd's label and covers all have cost and it does take time to get  them 
and his video also isn't much more than some of the videos of previous  shows 
that others did and sold and his is a dvd set 
 
I cannot do a show and make a video so I am sure we will be getting reviews  
of the dvd's soon and I hope those that want to relive the moment take up the  
offer.  I wish I had more video of the last three shows.  
 
One thing that never gets taken into consideration is time 
 
And time is worth something. 
 
Thanks for the effort can't wait to see the show
You all know I never got a chance to see it LOL
 
Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2004 21:58:10 -0500
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>
Subject: Re: Owners Going to LV

Last time I was in LV, we got together with Rob and Matt and two other D 
owners who were in town for Florida and NY.  

Well we are going to be in LV 9-26 to 9-30   any other D owners going to 
be there during this time.

How about November 7-9

Bob Brandys

PS would the D owner from Florida please contact me off line?




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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2004 22:18:00 -0500
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RE: PIGEON FORGE VIDEOS ARE HERE!!!!!! PIGEON FORGE VIDEOS ARE HERE!!!!!!

Thanks for your support!
Yes, I agree that the video is too long.
However the work it would have been to disect it peice by peice would have 
taken too long
so it was better to leave it there and let the view hit the NEXT button and 
go to the next scene
and make thier own choice.
I talked with Ken about this and he also told me to make it shorter,
however my dillema was that I wanted to cut out a lot of people, some of 
which are my friends ut I was afraid they might take it personaly and I know 
how certain vendors have their loyal minions so I didn't want to appear to 
play favorites and I wanted to give everyone a fair shot.
I did not get much of Grady because he simply wasn't there - he was too 
late.
Some of the other people that are not seen simply didn't have time or were 
camera shy.

I never got around to shooting much of Hervey, but we hear enough of him 
anyway! - LOL

I really wanted to get some stuff with Toby, and we had diner together 
several times but for some reason or another I was always doing something 
else.

Even though we were there for 4 days, it seemed like 2 hours.
Everything was happening to fast.
Next time I will have more of a schedule and might een have several crews 
running around.
The next video in 2006 will be awesome!
- VB

>From: "Payne" <bpayne_at_dml_macnet.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
>Subject: Re: [DML] RE: PIGEON FORGE VIDEOS ARE HERE!!!!!! PIGEON FORGE 
>VIDEOS ARE HERE!!!!!!
>Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2004 18:23:20 -0700
>
>
>Mr. Moseley actually said that there would be no shipping charge on top of
>the DVD price. I'm not sure but I believe he doesn't charge shipping on any
>of the stuff you buy from him. I don't think that $20 is too much when you
>consider that it's two discs and around 4 hours of content. If anything,
>that's almost too much content. I've paid much more buying a few TV shows 
>on
>DVD.
>
>He does need to make it somewhat profitable to be worth his time. If people
>like the quality then maybe he'll put together another one for the next
>Delorean Car Show.
>
>payne
>#2975
>
>
>
> >
> > While I think it's great that people can take the skills they have to
> > create quality things, I can't see how it's something to charge $20
> > for.  I understand your time is worth something, but I can't imagine
> > your cost of manufacturing is even close to this number.  I'm also
> > sure there is a S&H charge on top of the $20.  Bottom line, I really
> > don't agree with this.  I guess I should delete my PF MPEG's before I
> > get sued or something.  :-p
> >
> > -Aaron Crocco
> > VIN 5591
> >
> >
>
>
>
>---
>[This E-mail Scanned for viruses by Onlinemac.com]
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>





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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2004 03:26:59 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: PIGEON FORGE VIDEOS ARE HERE!!!!!! PIGEON FORGE VIDEOS ARE HERE!!!!!!

I see you found your car! I guess you will be bringing it to the Fall
Tour to show it off! Much better than that P.O.S you brought last time.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 & 7138




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Aaron Crocco <acrocco_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> e there is a S&H charge on top of the $20.  Bottom line, I really
> don't agree with this.  I guess I should delete my PF MPEG's before I
> get sued or something.  :-p
> 
> -Aaron Crocco
> VIN 5591




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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2004 03:24:42 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: HELP ME

I would check the mechanical advance AND the vacuum advance. It is
pretty simple to do with a timing light. It sounds like one, the
other, or both are not coming on like they should. Before using the
light a visual inspection of all the vacuum hoses for correct routing
and damage should be done. I have seen on more than a few cars the
mechanical advance was stuck. You have to dissasemble it and clean and
lubricate it. A vacuum leak from an old, cracked hose will cause the
vacuum advance to malfunction. Old, hard, leaking injector seals can
also give these symptoms. Backfiring during deceleration can be caused
by the decel valves not opening. They are the little spring-loaded
things on the throttle plates. Check to see if they are stuck.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "painterdave72" <painterdave72_at_dml_y...>
wrote:
> Hello i am new to this forum but others have recommended it... I am
having a 
> problem with my car where it is hesitating until about 2000 rpms
then u can 
> feel it kick in and have all sorts of power.. I spoke to Many people
including 
> Rob Grady who seems to this it is the fuel distributor going bad.. I
took it off 
> and cleaned all the openings cause if u look in there u can see
little fiters 
> where the lines hook up and they looked dirty.. this seemed to help
alot but it 
> still does it and is backfires in the exhaust when u let off the gas
i do have a 





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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2004 03:36:57 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: hotstart problems

If you keep insisting that the problem is vapor lock you will not look
to where the problem really exists. Heat soak IS a problem but not
relating to fuel. It seems to cause a bad pick-up coil in the
distributer to act up. The next time the motor is hot and won't start
check for spark. If you don't have any it is "probably" the pick-up
coil. If you DO have spark try the plug swap. If THAT works then you
DO have a fuel system problem, maybe you aren't holding up the rest
pressure like you think. The rest pressure "in theory" is supposed to
prevent vapor lock by keeping the fuel under so much pressure it can't
boil. The fuel also gets recirculated by the fuel pump so it doesn't
get so hot when the system is running. Maybe you have a bad suction
hose in the tank and the pump is getting air. That can cause the
symptoms you are experiencing too. Deloreans in general do not usually
have a problem with vapor lock unless there is something wrong.
Installing shrouds may get rid of the symptoms but you are not
correcting the underlying problem.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Me <fleetofworlds_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> 
> As long as rest pressure is maintained there is no typical heat soak 
> condition that-- >(should)<-- cause fuel vaporization and prevent a hot 
> start. 
> 
>  
> 
> We can argue that something shouldnt happen all day long.However
even when the proper rest pressure is maintained the problem still
exsists .So you can go by the book all day long and quote specs till
your blue in the face but dont cry to me when you get stranded
somewhere.Heat soak is a constant problem with Deloreans and Fiats.I
have installed cooling shrouds on several cars with excellent
results.I also point out that ford uses fuel injector cooling shrouds
on several of its vehicles.





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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2004 20:42:10 -0700 (PDT)
From: fred lockett <delorean_pilot_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Brakes

Got pedal going almost to floor, Car does stop but not
well. Afraid to take it on the street. Was in dead
storage a few years. What should I do to get it to
mechanic? Any way to get the pedal up and brakes to
work a little better? It's a ten mile drive...




		
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Message: 8
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2004 22:57:48 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Headlight Switch Reproductions

Steve, Has the switch melted inside.
John



-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Deichman [mailto:swdeichman_at_dml_yahoo.com]
Sent: Saturday, September 11, 2004 8:06 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Headlight Switch Reproductions


Great news, as my headlight switch burned up on the way home from my class
reunion 5 years ago next weekend and I have had to live with a temporary
solution since!!

advise how to order - thanks
Steve

Rod Dillman <rhdillman_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:

After reading James' recent posting about DMC, Humble's plan to offer owners
a chance to pre-order headlight switches as well as a follow up posting, I
talked with Stephen Wynne at DMC. I have owned two Deloreans over the past
five years and have never needed a headlight switch for either. My first
DeLorean had around 80,000 miles showing on the broken speedometer when I
traded it for a refurbished DeLorean from DMC then located in Houston. While
my refurbished car has been trouble free for the 3 years I have owned it, I
still carry a spare fuel pump with me on trips as well as spare belts, spare
fuses, replacement lamps for the xenon boosted headlights that I upgraded to
and small tools and screwdrivers. I probably should also carry a spare water
pump and if it were as compact as the fuel pump I would have already bought
it. I pre-ordered two Headlight Switches today in hopes that the 250 goal
will be achieved soon and DMC can place the order with the manufacturer. To
me $80 is
insignificant should you have a headlight switch failure on a dark night
away from home and, for me ,probably on a weekend. If I never need either
headlight switch, just the peace of mind of having one on a trip is worth
the price. Recently there was a headlight switch and a hazard switch on ebay
for a Buy It Now price of $125. I was tempted but I would rather have a new
reproduction switch for $40 than a 20 plus year old NOS switch even if the
price were the same. I encourage any others who may feel the same as I, to
place orders soon so that production can begin and the new switches
delivered. Just for the record, I have no connection whatsoever with DMC,
Humble other than being a satisfied customer.


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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2004 04:04:27 -0000
From: "Robert Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Italian CarFest in Grapevine Texas

I went to the italian Carfest in Grapevine Texas today,
they would not let me put my car in because it is a "Italian" only show.
Which brings up a good question...
What country is our car officially from?

I mean, it was Italian designed, Irish assembled, British backed
with a Swiss/French drive train but the parent company was based in
the United States.
So when someone asks me "where is this car from?"
I am not sure what to say.
I usually go through the whole spiel....

"Well, it was built in Ireland, but the engine is Volvo based
but it was an Italian designed car...."

So does anyone know the official answer?
Is it:
(1) American
(2) Italian
(3) Irish
(4) British
(5) Swiss
(6) French
(7) Krypton

...I don't know.

I had a great time at the show, even though I couldn't park the car
inside it drew a large crowd outside the gate.
I have the doors up, flux fluxing, hoverboard hovering, and Huey Lewis
blasting... even though there were Countach's, Diablo's,
Tesstarossa's, Pantera's, Fiat's and even an Enzo Ferrari - (that is a
$1,000,000.00 car that can go 0-100 in 3 seconds).
I think there were more pictures taken of my car than any of them.

While I was walking though the crowd hundreds of feet away from my
car, I could hear people reminiscing about what they just saw...
"dude, it even had a real Flux Capacitor! That hoverboard was awesome!
Did you see the doors? Man that was cool!".

I gotta tell you, I felt really good about the car.
I even ran into the great guy who sold me the car, he was really
impressed with all the updates I have done, and people never stop
telling me how great those new seats I got from DMCH look.
For those who know Deloreans, they always compliment Stegar's chrome
rims. They really look fantastic and stand out over the grey painted
originals. 
This was my first time at a real car show, so it was fun to sit back a
few feet and listen in to what people were saying.
It seems that about 90% of everything I heard was total BS.
It was like a crowd full of "Cliff Claven's" (the postman from CHEERS)
all being know-it-all's with each other.
I just say back and giggled as people talked about every misconception
there is about the car... then if you correct them they argue with you
so I don't bother half the time....
Most of you have already done all this but I got a kick out of it.

There is something very cool about a guy who owns a half-a-million
dollar car telling ME my car is cool.
Gotta love it.

- Videobob
VIN#5278




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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2004 04:09:21 -0000
From: "usndmc" <usndmc_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Charcoal canister

While searching the archives for something else, I happened to see 
this message from 2000 and had a question about it:

Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2000 00:17:48 -0800
From: "Robert Rooney" <dmcvegas(AT)worldnet.att.net>
X-Mailing-List: dmcnews(AT)egroups.com
Subject: [DML] re: Charcoal Filter
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
The Charcoal Filter is apart of the emissions system. It is designed 
to
recover the gas fumes from within the tank to burn them up in the
engine. If the charcoal inside the filter is no good, it is unable to
absorb the gasoline vapors. When gasoline vapors escape into the air,
they only disappear for a while. Aside from creating smog, when it 
gets
cold in the morning, the vapors will condinsate back into a liquid 
form
onto plants the exact same way morning dew does. As I belive it, a
common symptom of a charcoal canister needing replacement is the "Hot
Start" problem. To add something else to this, my question is: Is a
replacement of the entire assembly nessisary, or can you refill the
canister. And if so, will regular aquarium charcoal do the job?
-Robert

--------

I couldn't find any replies to the post. Does the charcoal canister 
really need to be refilled/replaced every so often?

-Dave
#5968




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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2004 00:26:43 -0400
From: Aaron Crocco <acrocco_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: RE: PIGEON FORGE VIDEOS ARE HERE!!!!!! PIGEON FORGE VIDEOS ARE HERE!!!!!!

( Note from the moderator: Bob has had plenty of opportunity to discribe the video he's offering and now Aaron has had the opportunity to defend his character. I think it's time to move on and leave this subject. )  



Bob,

See, now I was all in agreement with you on all your points until you
decided to say something of a personal nature towards me.  My post
only questioned the manufacturing costs of these videos.  Your
response has shown me that you are unable to make a counter-point
without crossing the line.

Now I really couldn't give two f**cks about your DVD's and your $100k
a year job.  If you knew anything about me, you would know I am one of
the hardest working owners here and extremely enthusiastic about being
in this community.  If you knew anything about me, you would know I am
far from cheap as you have implied, and if you knew anything about
common sense, you would have better sense than to insult my finances
on a public forum.  That was uncalled for.

You say there's one in every bunch?  Well consider me one to always
question people's actions when I don't quite agree with them. 
Consider me one of those people who do not take everything on face
value and definitely consider me one to question people's intentions
when money is involved.

As for my "standards", I won't even begin to justify this with a
response.  I am a well respected person in this community and I intend
to keep it that way.  If you beg to differ, I am sure there are many
people who will verify this claim.

Keep it professional and think before you press "send".

-Aaron Crocco
VIN 5591




On Sat, 11 Sep 2004 16:37:04 -0500, Video Bob <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com> wrote:
> Are you kidding me?
> $20 for TWO, two hour DVD's?
> First of all, FREE shipping.
> Secondly, these are TWO DVD's, each over 2 hours long, with thermal image
> printing on them
> (not a sticky ink jet printed lable), and a full color sleeve in a double
> sided case, shirnk wrapped and
> shipped....
> 
> I knew that there would be somebody out there to yank my chain on this,
> because there
> is one in every bunch who expects something for nothing.
> 
> Never mind the cost of production.
> Let's consider the 12 hours of tape I shot ($5 per cassette),
> that means there was over 12 hours of digitizing, and then over 25 hours of
> editing,
> then hour after hour of rendering, compressing to MPEG2 and then creating
> the perfect
> bitrate to get all this onto 2 DVD's, building the menus, rendering them and
> then burning the
> discs at a very time consuming 20 munites each.
> I already have over 40 hours of time in this already.
> I make about $100K per year, so that breaks down to about $50 per hour or
> something?
> So by that math I have $2000 of my time into these, plus materials.
> 
> My company might have charged over $10,000 for this service if contracted to
> do it for a client.
> I have over $100K worth of television production equipment to do this stuff.
> It's not some fly-by-night crap.
> 
> Usually a special interest video would cost you at least $50 or more for a
> sloppy 20 minute TAPE.
> Any special interest video on anything at a specialty store woulc cost you
> at least $20.00.
> 
> I think you should sell that Delorean and get something like a Chevette.
> These are elite exotic cars made for people with higher standards.
> If $20 for a video is breaking your bank then you need to move onto another
> hobby.
> 
> For the rest of the people out there who know a good bargain when they see
> it,
> and live for the moment and want a Delorean video they will treasure
> always....
> 
> http://dfwdmc.com/store_dvd.html
> 
> - Videobob
> 
> >From: Aaron Crocco <acrocco_at_dml_gmail.com>
> >Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> >To: DML <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
> >Subject: [DML] RE: PIGEON FORGE VIDEOS ARE HERE!!!!!! PIGEON FORGE VIDEOS
> >ARE HERE!!!!!!
> >Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2004 09:46:16 -0400
> 
> 
> >
> >
> >While I think it's great that people can take the skills they have to
> >create quality things, I can't see how it's something to charge $20
> >for.  I understand your time is worth something, but I can't imagine
> >your cost of manufacturing is even close to this number.  I'm also
> >sure there is a S&H charge on top of the $20.  Bottom line, I really
> >don't agree with this.  I guess I should delete my PF MPEG's before I
> >get sued or something.  :-p
> >
> >-Aaron Crocco
> >VIN 5591
> >
> >
> >
> >To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> >moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> >
> >For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
> >
> >To search the archives or view files, log in at
> >http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> >Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> 
>



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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2004 00:34:26 -0400
From: Aaron Crocco <acrocco_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: I am now an owner

Hey everyone,

I've been meaning to post this for a few days, but my time has been
short on the computer.

As of Wednesday, September 8th, I am officially a Delorean owner.  I
am the proud father of VIN 5591, a 5-speed, grey interior.  It's an
Oct '81 build with 29k miles.  I would like to take a moment to thank
everyone who replied to my calls for available cars out there and the
many people who sent me e-mails just to say hello.  It is much
appreciated.

I would also like to thank Rob Grady for pointing me in the right
direction.  Without his help, and I am sure I speak for many people, I
would be lost.  Also a big thanks to Mike DeLuca, Kevin Abato and the
Delorean Mid-Atlantic club.  The support I've recieved makes ownership
that more worthwhile.

I'm sure I'll be posting more now that I have a car to give me
questions that need answers.  I hope to see you all soon at the next
event.  Be well.

-Aaron Crocco
VIN 5591
NY Plate:  OUTATYM



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Message: 13
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2004 05:24:41 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: Water Pump replacement and Penetrating OIl

Dave - The only bolts that you have to be careful with are the steel 
bolts that are screwed into aluminum (grin).  You need to be careful 
to avoid cross-threading any and all bolts, but especially the 
intake manifold bolts.  They can be interesting.  Any good 
penetrating oil is good.  Many swear by PB Blaster.  If you run the 
car, the thermal cycles can help work the penetrant into the 
fasteners (that's a good thing).  It may stink and smoke a little, 
depending on where and how much you apply it.  Always use anti-seize 
compound for reassembly on every bolt, and replace the various O-
rings and gaskets to avoid a massive vacuum leak.  Change the hoses 
out under the manifold unless they are nearly new.  Other than 
that ... nothing to worry about.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, doctorDHD_at_dml_a... wrote:
> I will be replacing my water pump soon and want to know if there 
are any bolts I have to be extra careful with.  Should I use 
penetrating oil and if so what kind.  Is it ok to use / run the car 
after applying the oil or will that make it worse by "baking it in"?
>  
> Dave and 6530





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Message: 14
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2004 14:31:22 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: HELP ME

The first thing I would check is the vacuum hoses from the thermo-
vacuum switch to the fuel warm-up regulator and vacuum advance. Make 
absolutely sure they are routed correctly.

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "painterdave72" <painterdave72_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:
> Hello i am new to this forum but others have recommended it... I 
am having a 
> problem with my car where it is hesitating until about 2000 rpms 
then u can 
> feel it kick in and have all sorts of power.. I spoke to Many 
people including 
> Rob Grady who seems to this it is the fuel distributor going bad.. 
I took it off 
> and cleaned all the openings cause if u look in there u can see 
little fiters 
> where the lines hook up and they looked dirty.. this seemed to 
help alot but it 
> still does it and is backfires in the exhaust when u let off the 
gas i do have a 
> free flow exhaust with headers though... but this problem is 
recent i just did an 
> entire top end engine rebuild during the winteer a bout six months 
ago... all 
> new sensors under the manifold new water pump new warm up 
regulator all 
> new cap and rotor, nologys new wire and plug and coil booster 
kit.. and a new 
> coil  there was a loose big black ground wire in the coil box 
which i tighted 
> which also seemed to help but the problem is still there.. What is 
going on 
> here???? could it be  the fuel dist going bad??? any one else have 
this 
> problem ever???? I do have all the original relays in the car 
still havent gotten 
> around to replacing them yet... Any help would  be appreciated.. 
oh yeah it 
> does spit sparks out of the exhaust sometimes when u let off the 
gas and 
> pops... Thanks. Dave.




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2004 14:23:32 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: automatic transmission problems

Fluid is "full" and fuse is OK? You have driven the car in 1st and 
2nd "hold"? Sometimes the computer governer will cause crazy actions 
and it may feel like neutral - but, you say there is no "auto"? What 
happens if you pull the fuse? Does the trans lock into 3rd in the 
auto position? If it does I would suspect the computer or some other 
electrical issue. Otherwise a complete diagnostic needs done - the 
book says "roller clutch" but in my experience this is type of 
failure is rare.

Harold McElraft - 3354

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "gert christensen" <ingegert_at_dml_m...> 
wrote:
> hey group
> 
> After engine swap, today I put it back in the car. Everything 
works fine, except
> the transmission
> reverse is working , parking is ok, neutral is ok, 1st "hold" is 
ok, 2nd "hold"
> is working and shift ok, but drive is total dead (just like 
neutral). Before the
> engine swap, I have never had transmission problems.
> 
> any suggestions ????????
> 
> gert  win 2884
> denmark
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2004 07:59:27 -0700 (PDT)
From: david hudgins <painterdave72_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: HELP ME

--- David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net> wrote:
Hey Dave thanks but i just checked the vacumn advance
the other day with a timing li9ght and how do u check
the mechanical adavance?? Also the srping decel valves
are not stuck i just checked those recentlty too and i
have all new vacumn hoses on the car.. Rob Grady seems
to think it is the fuel distributor though that is
pretty expensiev wish i could check it somehow.. I
will have to try the graduated cup test with the
injectors i guess. Any more suggestions? could it be
the fuel pump or warm up regulator? Though the warm up
regulator is new as of a few months ago. Thanks.
Dave.> 


I would check the mechanical advance AND the vacuum
> advance. It is
> pretty simple to do with a timing light. It sounds
> like one, the
> other, or both are not coming on like they should.
> Before using the
> light a visual inspection of all the vacuum hoses
> for correct routing
> and damage should be done. I have seen on more than
> a few cars the
> mechanical advance was stuck. You have to
> dissasemble it and clean and
> lubricate it. A vacuum leak from an old, cracked
> hose will cause the
> vacuum advance to malfunction. Old, hard, leaking
> injector seals can
> also give these symptoms. Backfiring during
> deceleration can be caused
> by the decel valves not opening. They are the little
> spring-loaded
> things on the throttle plates. Check to see if they
> are stuck.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "painterdave72"
> <painterdave72_at_dml_y...>
> wrote:
> > Hello i am new to this forum but others have
> recommended it... I am
> having a 
> > problem with my car where it is hesitating until
> about 2000 rpms
> then u can 
> > feel it kick in and have all sorts of power.. I
> spoke to Many people
> including 
> > Rob Grady who seems to this it is the fuel
> distributor going bad.. I
> took it off 
> > and cleaned all the openings cause if u look in
> there u can see
> little fiters 
> > where the lines hook up and they looked dirty..
> this seemed to help
> alot but it 
> > still does it and is backfires in the exhaust when
> u let off the gas
> i do have a 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
>     dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> 
>  
> 
> 



		
_______________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Shop for Back-to-School deals on Yahoo! Shopping.
http://shopping.yahoo.com/backtoschool



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2004 14:57:40 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Brakes

If the brakes are that bad it should not be driven. Break down and
open your wallet and get it towed. Just imagine how bad you will feel
if you damage the car AND hurt somebody. You probably have to rebuild
the entire brake system anyway. Chances are you have stuck pistons in
the calipers and a bad master cylinder. Have the mechanic's shop tow
it, maybe they can work it into the repair so you don't see the cost
directly. Make sure they know not to hook on the control arms, use the
loops on the frame.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, fred lockett <delorean_pilot_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Got pedal going almost to floor, Car does stop but not
> well. Afraid to take it on the street. Was in dead
> storage a few years. What should I do to get it to
> mechanic? Any way to get the pedal up and brakes to
> work a little better? It's a ten mile drive...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 		
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Mail - 50x more storage than other providers!
> http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2004 15:12:02 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Brakes

I would suggest you hire a "flat-bed" to get the car to your 
mechanic. The chance of causing an accident is just not worth the 
risk - is it?

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, fred lockett <delorean_pilot_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:
> Got pedal going almost to floor, Car does stop but not
> well. Afraid to take it on the street. Was in dead
> storage a few years. What should I do to get it to
> mechanic? Any way to get the pedal up and brakes to
> work a little better? It's a ten mile drive...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 		
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Mail - 50x more storage than other providers!
> http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2004 10:18:18 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Brakes

Fred, Your brakes probably look like this on the inside.
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/brake-caliper-1.jpg
I would be very careful in trying to drive the car. The time spent in trying
to get the brakes up and the chance take to drive it 10 miles wouldn't be
worth the risk. The damage to the seals is done and I don't think you will
revive them.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com




-----Original Message-----
From: fred lockett [mailto:delorean_pilot_at_dml_yahoo.com]
Sent: Saturday, September 11, 2004 9:42 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Brakes


Got pedal going almost to floor, Car does stop but not
well. Afraid to take it on the street. Was in dead
storage a few years. What should I do to get it to
mechanic? Any way to get the pedal up and brakes to
work a little better? It's a ten mile drive...





__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail - 50x more storage than other providers!
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail



To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Yahoo! Groups Links









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2004 15:58:34 -0000
From: "trekkerlb" <TrekkerLB_at_dml_Netzero.Com>
Subject: Re: Keys

I had a chance yesterday to remove the parts as everyone indicated.  
I found nothing on the steering column or associated parts but did 
find something on the car door.  Does 070906/28 sound like a key 
code - I have no idea what it should be like.

If so, can any vendor do this, or should I just go to DMCH?

Thanks again to alll for the help.
Luis
3723

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> 
wrote:
> In many cases there is no sticker or it was removed long ago. The
> other place is under the headliner on the driver's door in magic
> marker. If you have a key the code can be read off it. Look in the
> glove box. If you have any origional paperwork the # could be 
there too.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Soma576_at_dml_a... wrote:
> > In a message dated 9/7/04 5:22:00 PM Central Daylight Time, 
> > johnnysher1_at_dml_c... writes:
> > 
> > 
> > > Sometimes you can find the key code written under one of the
> headliners.
> > > 
> > > Johnny
> > > 5518
> > > 
> > 
> > Even easier - 
> > 
> > some cars have a round sticker on the underside of the steering 
column 
> > ignition switch shroud with the VIN number and key code written 
in
> pen.  not sure on 
> > the origin or story behind it but my car has it (VIN 11596) and 
the
> owner of 
> > VIN 6960 has it too - so it probably isn't just a KAPAC thing 
(which
> is what 
> > my car is, even though it's an '82).
> > 
> > who else has this little sticker?
> > 
> > Andy
> > 
> > 
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 21
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2004 10:24:33 -0700
From: "Joe Thome" <joethome_at_dml_jps.net>
Subject: RE: RE: PIGEON FORGE VIDEOS ARE HERE!!!!!! PIGEON FORGE VIDEOS ARE HERE!!!!!!

Bob,

Because of an illness in my family I could not make it to Pigeon Forge and
hoped that someone would make a video available. I thank you for taking your
time and skills and equipment to make what is obviously a professional job
of shooting the show and I really appreciate your having done that. I placed
my order on Saturday, immediately upon reading your e-mail that the footage
is now available.

Joe Thome
VIN 6467




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 22
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2004 18:08:22 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: HELP ME

Before you go any further, check the spray pattern on all 6 
injectors. If one clogs, it will cause all other injectors to run 
richer. I had the same symptoms, except 3K RPMs was when my car 
kicked in. But I had vacuum leaks too.

Take things one step at a time, and make sure they all function 
properly. Since the fuel distributor is a mechanical part, I imagine 
it can go bad. But other than rust and varnish from improper storage, 
I've never heard of one failing before.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, david hudgins <painterdave72_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:
> --- David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> Hey Dave thanks but i just checked the vacumn advance
> the other day with a timing li9ght and how do u check
> the mechanical adavance?? Also the srping decel valves
> are not stuck i just checked those recentlty too and i
> have all new vacumn hoses on the car.. Rob Grady seems
> to think it is the fuel distributor though that is
> pretty expensiev wish i could check it somehow.. I
> will have to try the graduated cup test with the
> injectors i guess. Any more suggestions? could it be
> the fuel pump or warm up regulator? Though the warm up
> regulator is new as of a few months ago. Thanks.
> Dave.> 




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 23
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2004 18:13:03 -0000
From: "EJ Chambers" <marmieej_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Scotch Brite Pads

Hello All:

This may be a stupid question, but for graining the SS panels, can you
use the green scotch brite pads you can buy in any store? What is the
difference between these and the ones the vendors sell?

Thanks!
Ej
4475




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Message: 24
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2004 18:01:11 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Charcoal canister

I've learned car repair, and theory by working on my DeLorean. So its 
always humbling to go back, and see just how naive I was about lots 
of things.

I never did get an answer, as to weather or not the charcoal can 
go "bad", like it does in a fish tank. It is possible to refill it, 
if you were to seperate the bottom, and then reglue it after you're 
done. But who knows if it's even nessisary.

The charcoal canister wasn't related to my hot start problem. That 
was caused by a missing O-ring in the Primary Pressure Regulator. 
But, my charcoal canister was defective, none the less.

The problem with my charcoal canister, was a defective diaphram. 
Normal engine vacuum wasn't strong enough to pull it open, so that 
the canister, and hence the gas tank could vent. Because the tank 
couldn't vent, excess pressure from heat was causing the tank to 
swell dangerously.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"

Back off the road due to a bad water pump pulley.



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "usndmc" <usndmc_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> While searching the archives for something else, I happened to see 
> this message from 2000 and had a question about it:
> 
> Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2000 00:17:48 -0800
> From: "Robert Rooney" <dmcvegas(AT)worldnet.att.net>
> X-Mailing-List: dmcnews(AT)egroups.com
> Subject: [DML] re: Charcoal Filter
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> Content-Type: text/plain
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
> The Charcoal Filter is apart of the emissions system. It is 
designed 
> to
> recover the gas fumes from within the tank to burn them up in the
> engine. If the charcoal inside the filter is no good, it is unable 
to
> absorb the gasoline vapors. When gasoline vapors escape into the 
air,
> they only disappear for a while. Aside from creating smog, when it 
> gets
> cold in the morning, the vapors will condinsate back into a liquid 
> form
> onto plants the exact same way morning dew does. As I belive it, a
> common symptom of a charcoal canister needing replacement is 
the "Hot
> Start" problem. To add something else to this, my question is: Is a
> replacement of the entire assembly nessisary, or can you refill the
> canister. And if so, will regular aquarium charcoal do the job?
> -Robert
> 
> --------
> 
> I couldn't find any replies to the post. Does the charcoal canister 
> really need to be refilled/replaced every so often?
> 
> -Dave
> #5968




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Message: 25
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2004 14:13:36 -0400
From: "james" <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: 108388 Headlight Switch (update)

After the first week of accepting orders towards the 250 mark, we're standing at 
60, better than 20% of the way there. DeLorean Motor Center and PJ Grady 
both have come on baord with orders of 25 each, making a this an industry-
supported endeavor, as well as an owner/enthusiast one - see the full list of 
who's ordered and shown their support at:

http://www.delorean.com/headlightswitch.asp

I appreciate the support of those who have ordered, and encourage those who 
haven't yet done so to check out the webpages with all the detailed information.

Remember, pre-ordering is just $40 now, and once the 250 order mark is 
reached, the new retail price will be $50. And once the switches arrive, all U.S. 
pre-orders will be shipped for free.

Regards,

James Espey
DMC (Texas)
http://www.delorean.com



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


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