From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2226
Date: Tuesday, September 14, 2004 4:39 AM

There are 6 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: fan fail kit
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

2. RE: fan fail kit
From: "D F" <funkstuf_at_dml_hotmail.com>

3. Re: changing to synthetic oil
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

4. VIN #11594
From: "Matthew P. Tilchen" <mtilchen_at_dml_mac.com>

5. Re: Vapor Lock
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

6. Delorean Mid-Atlantic Club Fall Tour and Logo Contest are heating up fast!
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 16:39:09 -0500
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: fan fail kit

Turn your A/C mode switch to off before turning off the ignition. You 
should have really contacted John Hervey first before posting since you 
might have a problem with the fan fail.

Always ask the vendor whom you bought your parts from first then post 
if you still need help.

Mark V



On Monday, September 13, 2004, at 09:59  AM, alistairmccann wrote:

>
> Hi Folks
>
> My engine cooling fans have started acting up.  I noticed that after
> I turned of the ignition that they stayed on and wont turn off.
>
> I had fitted the special T auto fan fail kit a few months back and
> it was working fine up until today.
>
> I took out the kit and fitted in the original relays and the fans
> went off but the temp gage is stuck on the half way point between
> 100 and 220...
>
> Is my temp sender or the otterstat broken???
>
> Alistair
> doc 404
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>




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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 21:52:58 +0000
From: "D F" <funkstuf_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: fan fail kit

I have occassionally had this same problem with that particular fan fail 
kit.
It seemed that once I placed it so that there was no physical pressure on it 
it worked better.
I'm not really sure if that's the fix but I haven't had the problem for 
awhile.
I'm interested to hear if others have had this problem.

Dale Funk
4984

>From: "alistairmccann" <alistairmccann_at_dml_yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] fan fail kit
>Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 14:59:47 -0000
>
>
>Hi Folks
>
>My engine cooling fans have started acting up.  I noticed that after
>I turned of the ignition that they stayed on and wont turn off.
>
>I had fitted the special T auto fan fail kit a few months back and
>it was working fine up until today.
>
>I took out the kit and fitted in the original relays and the fans
>went off but the temp gage is stuck on the half way point between
>100 and 220...
>
>Is my temp sender or the otterstat broken???
>
>Alistair
>doc 404
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>





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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 23:24:44 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: changing to synthetic oil

I don't know that I buy the congealed oil stuff, but I did 
experience what I believed to be some stuck piston rings in a D that 
had been sitting for over five years. My concern was getting oil 
flow open to the rings and dissolving any sludge, etc. My search 
turned up a product made in Germany called LM Lubro Moly Oil Sludge 
Remover. I found it at a foreign auto parts store in Houston. I have 
not seen it at the usual places like NAPA, etal. The parts manager 
had a B28 Volvo and said he had used it in his engine and thought it 
was great stuff. So I decided to try it.

This stuff is to be used before an oil change for about 200 miles 
and drained hot. I did that. The oil I drained was only a 1000 miles 
old and was it black. After that, no more noisy pistons and the oil 
stayed clean. That was about 45,000 miles ago. That's the only time 
I have used the sludge remover and it seemed to do the job.

Harold McElraft - 3354



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "captain_hydrogen" 
<captainhydrogen_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> [MODERATOR'S NOTE: The debate on preferred motor oil comes up 
often and this will not be one of those debates. This is not a 
question about what the best motor oil is and responses of that form 
will be dumped as being repetitive with the massive archive we have 
on oil.]
> 
> I will be changing to Mobil 1 Synthetic next weekend and would 
like 
> some opinions or factual information concerning something the guy 
at 
> the auto store said.  I told him that prior to buying my DeLorean, 
it 
> sat dormant for a few years with all fluids present.  He said that 
> over time, sediment can gather in the bottom of the oil pan and 
other 
> places and when changing over to synthetic oil, the smaller 
molecules 
> of the synthetic medium can loosen the old sediment and 
> cause "chunks" of congealed oil to clog the passage ways.  He 
> suggested that I use a motor flush prior to changing oil and 
pointed 
> me to the motor flush section.  He said that anyone will work, but 
> pointed to one he had experience with, "Fast Motor Flush, 5-Minute 
> Engine Cleaner, by CRC (www.crcindustries.com, part #05336)".  I 
> bought two cans because of the amount of oil used in the engine.  
If 
> I need it, I have it, if I don't need it, I can return it.
> 
> The question is, do I need it, or did I buy two cans of "snake 
oil"?  
> Is what the auto store guy said true?  Since I will be changing 
over 
> to synthetic oil, is it possible that not using a motor flush 
prior 
> to the change, can damage my engine?
> 
> Looking for answers and clarity.
> 
> Thank you,
> Ben Ferguson
> Arizona DeLorean Club, VIN 10365
> American Hydrogen Association
> captainhydrogen_at_dml_c...




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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 20:55:39 -0400
From: "Matthew P. Tilchen" <mtilchen_at_dml_mac.com>
Subject: VIN #11594

Before I put my car up for sale in other venues, I wanted to give the
community an opportunity to look at it first. You all have been an ammazing
resource and incredibly helpful during the years I have owned this car. Its
condition is a testimony to that. Thanks again.

So if you are looking for a car and you have a minute, please visit
http://69.14.24.239/dmc VIN #11594 is an '82 5-Speed, Black/Grey interior
with 40K miles. If you have any questions please contact me at:
matt(at)tilchen.net | 248.761.9855.

-Matt




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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2004 00:32:38 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: Vapor Lock

Hello List - I had a conversation with a DeLorean owner who had 
driven his car to Pigeon Forge.  On the trip, he had a number of 
suction hose issues down in the tank, and actually had 
the "opportunity" to do a little DeLorean "tank diving" alongside the 
interstate.  He told me that the fuel was so hot in the tank that he 
felt like it was burning his skin.  Between the hot air blowing on 
the tank from the radiator, and the fuel being returned to the tank 
from the engine compartment as part of the recirculation that goes on 
continuously in the DeLorean, the fuel was heated to a significant 
degree (pun intended).  Here's the question for the List - Would this 
phenomenon have any bearing on the discussions about fuel vapor 
lock?  I know that the book that I have on Bosch fuel injection 
systems says that tank shape is critical for the K-Jetronic system 
that we have.  According to the book, the tank must be oriented 
vertically and should be relatively deep so that there can be good 
intermix of hot and cool fuel within the tank, in order to avoid 
temperature stratification. Consider the shape and orientation of the 
DeLorean fuel tank ...

Toby Peterson VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> 
wrote:
> Isn't vapor lock a suction problem, not a pressure problem (liquid
> turning to gas due to lowered evaporation point)? If so, the only
> place it could possibly happen on a DeLo is inside the tank, which 
is highly unlikely given the cooling effect of all that fuel.





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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 21:29:39 -0400
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>
Subject: Delorean Mid-Atlantic Club Fall Tour and Logo Contest are heating up fast!

Just dropping a note to let you all know that the Delorean Mid-Atlantic
club is really heating up this fall!

We are still accepting entries for our "Design our logo" contest in
which you can win a $100 PJ Grady gift certificate!!!

Also, we now have the Fall Tour V registration form and details on
dinner posted on our site!  Hurry and sign up now to save HUGE on this
event with early registration and member discounts!!!!!!

Details on both can be found here:
http://www.deloreanmidatlantic.com/updates/updates.htm

Kevin Abato
Vin# 16680


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
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