From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2227
Date: Tuesday, September 14, 2004 5:08 PM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Fuel Temperature.
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

2. RE: Re: Vapor Lock --> A deflector shield
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_bwig.net>

3. Re: Re: Vapor Lock
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

4. Re: Vapor Lock
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

5. Re: Re: Vapor Lock
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>

6. Re: changing to synthetic oil
From: "Cecil Longwisch" <dmc1982_at_dml_msn.com>

7. Re: changing to synthetic oil
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>

8. RE: Re: changing to synthetic oil
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

9. Re: Engine Oil "Enemas"
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

10. Re: Re: Rear Sway Bar
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

11. Re: Steering Rack Enigma?
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

12. Another Non-Starting D
From: motarhedd_at_dml_aol.com

13. Re: Brake lights not working
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

14. Original dealer/mechanic discovered
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

15. Re: Scotch Brite Pads
From: "Ratfink65" <dennis.p.lowery_at_dml_lmco.com>

16. Brake light 3rd
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

17. RE: Re: Vapor Lock --> A deflector shield
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

18. Dave Bauerle's Fuel Tank Protector
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_fuse.net>

19. Fuel Pump Care
From: Rod Dillman <rhdillman_at_dml_yahoo.com>

20. Re: Fuel Temperature.
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>

21. Re: Re: Vapor Lock
From: "Richard Strecker" <dmc1219_at_dml_one.net>

22. Advertising.
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

23. Re: Fuel Pump Care
From: Peter Lucas <lucas_at_dml_Maya.com>

24. Re: Another Non-Starting D
From: Michael Paine <mpaine_at_dml_tycomsystems.com>

25. Re: Fuel Temperature.
From: ttanaka504_at_dml_aol.com





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 18:43:15 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Fuel Temperature.

Have anyone verified that Fuel Temperature is a
problem?  Cold fuel is more efficient, but many people
drive their DeLoreans in hot climate with no problems.

Many years back, there was someone selling a rubber
shield that blocked the hot air coming out of the
radiator from blowing over the fuel tank.

I don't remember who it was, but I have seen a few
installed on cars.  Looked to be a good idea, although
I saw no data to prove it was effective.


--- tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com wrote:

<SNIP>

> felt like it was burning his skin.  Between the hot
> air blowing on 
> the tank from the radiator, and the fuel being
> returned to the tank 
> from the engine compartment as part of the
> recirculation that goes on 
> continuously in the DeLorean, the fuel was heated to
> a significant 
> degree (pun intended).  Here's the question for the
<SNIP>


		
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Express yourself with Y! Messenger! Free. Download now. 
http://messenger.yahoo.com



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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 21:17:22 -0500
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_bwig.net>
Subject: RE: Re: Vapor Lock --> A deflector shield

Related thought ...

Years ago, someone made a deflector that directed the warm radiator air down
and away from the tank.  It may be worth considering.  The downside of that
kit is that it used sheet metal screws to anchor to the frame and I am
FIRMLY opposed to breaking the frame seal.

The deflector was a heavy ?1/2 inch? rubber mat.  There are probably better
materials and anchoring alternatives.

Food for thought,

Nick Kemp

-----Original Message-----
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com [mailto:tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com]
Sent: Monday, September 13, 2004 6:33 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Vapor Lock


Hello List - I had a conversation with a DeLorean owner who had
driven his car to Pigeon Forge.  On the trip, he had a number of
suction hose issues down in the tank, and actually had
the "opportunity" to do a little DeLorean "tank diving" alongside the
interstate.  He told me that the fuel was so hot in the tank that he
felt like it was burning his skin.  Between the hot air blowing on
the tank from the radiator, and the fuel being returned to the tank
from the engine compartment as part of the recirculation that goes on
continuously in the DeLorean, the fuel was heated to a significant
degree (pun intended).  Here's the question for the List - Would this
phenomenon have any bearing on the discussions about fuel vapor
lock?  I know that the book that I have on Bosch fuel injection
systems says that tank shape is critical for the K-Jetronic system
that we have.  According to the book, the tank must be oriented
vertically and should be relatively deep so that there can be good
intermix of hot and cool fuel within the tank, in order to avoid
temperature stratification. Consider the shape and orientation of the
DeLorean fuel tank ...

Toby Peterson VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...>
wrote:
> Isn't vapor lock a suction problem, not a pressure problem (liquid
> turning to gas due to lowered evaporation point)? If so, the only
> place it could possibly happen on a DeLo is inside the tank, which
is highly unlikely given the cooling effect of all that fuel.





To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Yahoo! Groups Links









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2004 02:58:40 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: Re: Vapor Lock

I would think the heat might cause the pickup hose to collapse causing fuel 
starvation.

Mike

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2004 05:04:51 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Vapor Lock

I understand vapor lock to be abnormal sucking of gasseous fuel when
you'd otherwise be sucking liquid fuel. Isn't equipment failure, like
a collapsing pickup hose. Pump, carburetor, whatever is working
normally. It just ends up trying to suck fuel in the wrong form
(fuel's fault, not the device's).

I disagree with David's contention that increasing pressure can cause
abnormal fuel evaporation. Just like freon in the condensor, higher
pressure RAISES its boiling temperature. 

I suspect people often blame a variety of other ills on "vapor lock".
As stated before, except for a short period using K Jetronic on my
DeLo, I've driven properly tuned carbureted vehicles exclusively. Have
never once experienced an inability to suck fuel. My current PRV not
only has its carb 3/4" above an all aluminum engine (which everyone
claims is radiating MORE heat than a cast iron block), but the
compartment has virtually no air flow through it. The fuel filter
rests less than 1/2" above the driver valve cover (versus a cooler,
but less accessible, remote location). My experience driving to Pigeon
Forge was uneventful. Note I am using the same fuel tank with a low
PSI pump in a stock boot. And the fuel line runs adjacent to heater
core lines, versus a cooler route through the frame.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, tobyp_at_dml_k... wrote:
> Hello List - I had a conversation with a DeLorean owner who had 
> driven his car to Pigeon Forge.  On the trip, he had a number of 
> suction hose issues down in the tank, and actually had 
> the "opportunity" to do a little DeLorean "tank diving" alongside the 
> interstate.  He told me that the fuel was so hot in the tank that he 
> felt like it was burning his skin.  Between the hot air blowing on 
> the tank from the radiator, and the fuel being returned to the tank 
> from the engine compartment as part of the recirculation that goes on 
> continuously in the DeLorean, the fuel was heated to a significant 
> degree (pun intended).  Here's the question for the List - Would this 
> phenomenon have any bearing on the discussions about fuel vapor 
> lock?  I know that the book that I have on Bosch fuel injection 
> systems says that tank shape is critical for the K-Jetronic system 
> that we have.  According to the book, the tank must be oriented 
> vertically and should be relatively deep so that there can be good 
> intermix of hot and cool fuel within the tank, in order to avoid 
> temperature stratification. Consider the shape and orientation of the 
> DeLorean fuel tank ...
> 
> Toby Peterson VIN 2248 "Winged1"
> DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
> www.delorean-parts.com
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> 
> wrote:
> > Isn't vapor lock a suction problem, not a pressure problem (liquid
> > turning to gas due to lowered evaporation point)? If so, the only
> > place it could possibly happen on a DeLo is inside the tank, which 
> is highly unlikely given the cooling effect of all that fuel.




________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2004 08:54:07 -0500
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Vapor Lock

I remember years ago, someone was making an air diverter that went 
behind the radiator so that the hot air did not blow onto the gas tank.  

I also remember hearing that a number of people installed these and that 
they really did work.  

Anyone else remember this.?  Anyone  know any of the details or has a 
car with one of these?


This might by useful with this vapor lock issue.


BOB




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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 21:56:18 -0400
From: "Cecil Longwisch" <dmc1982_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Re: changing to synthetic oil

You will definitely have sludge in your oil pan and possibly in the oil passages. There are arguments both ways if you want to stir it up or leave it alone.
If you are going to switch to a highly detergent oil such as a synthetic I think you want to clean it up first. And with the synthetic it will not be back.

The most important thing is once you stir it up do not cheap out to get it safely out. After the flush process I would put a new filter and regular light weight (10W30) oil in it and run or drive it for an hour and then drain it and put the good stuff in.

You will be surprised at how dirty the oil will be.

Cecil Longwisch
#10663

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: captain_hydrogen<mailto:captainhydrogen_at_dml_cox.net> 
  To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com<mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com> 
  Sent: Monday, September 13, 2004 3:43 PM
  Subject: [DML] changing to synthetic oil


  [MODERATOR'S NOTE: The debate on preferred motor oil comes up often and this will not be one of those debates. This is not a question about what the best motor oil is and responses of that form will be dumped as being repetitive with the massive archive we have on oil.]

  I will be changing to Mobil 1 Synthetic next weekend and would like 
  some opinions or factual information concerning something the guy at 
  the auto store said.  I told him that prior to buying my DeLorean, it 
  sat dormant for a few years with all fluids present.  He said that 
  over time, sediment can gather in the bottom of the oil pan and other 
  places and when changing over to synthetic oil, the smaller molecules 
  of the synthetic medium can loosen the old sediment and 
  cause "chunks" of congealed oil to clog the passage ways.  He 
  suggested that I use a motor flush prior to changing oil and pointed 
  me to the motor flush section.  He said that anyone will work, but 
  pointed to one he had experience with, "Fast Motor Flush, 5-Minute 
  Engine Cleaner, by CRC (www.crcindustries.com<http://www.crcindustries.com/>, part #05336)".  I 
  bought two cans because of the amount of oil used in the engine.  If 
  I need it, I have it, if I don't need it, I can return it.

  The question is, do I need it, or did I buy two cans of "snake oil"?  
  Is what the auto store guy said true?  Since I will be changing over 
  to synthetic oil, is it possible that not using a motor flush prior 
  to the change, can damage my engine?

  Looking for answers and clarity.

  Thank you,
  Ben Ferguson
  Arizona DeLorean Club, VIN 10365
  American Hydrogen Association
  captainhydrogen_at_dml_cox.net<mailto:captainhydrogen_at_dml_cox.net>




  To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
  moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com<mailto:moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

  For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com<http://www.dmcnews.com/>

  To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews> 
  Yahoo! Groups Links



   



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2004 03:42:05 -0000
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: changing to synthetic oil

This is actually a good thread for all those cars that have sat for 
many years. The topic of flushing out any old contaminents is more 
important here than the type of oil. I myself would be very 
interested in reading if the so called "flushing" agents work like 
they said.

Thanks,

Joe


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "captain_hydrogen" 
<captainhydrogen_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> [MODERATOR'S NOTE: The debate on preferred motor oil comes up 
often and this will not be one of those debates. This is not a 
question about what the best motor oil is and responses of that form 
will be dumped as being repetitive with the massive archive we have 
on oil.]
> 
> I will be changing to Mobil 1 Synthetic next weekend and would 
like 
> some opinions or factual information concerning something the guy 
at 
> the auto store said.  I told him that prior to buying my DeLorean, 
it 
> sat dormant for a few years with all fluids present.  He said that 
> over time, sediment can gather in the bottom of the oil pan and 
other 
> places and when changing over to synthetic oil, the smaller 
molecules 
> of the synthetic medium can loosen the old sediment and 
> cause "chunks" of congealed oil to clog the passage ways.  He 
> suggested that I use a motor flush prior to changing oil and 
pointed 
> me to the motor flush section.  He said that anyone will work, but 
> pointed to one he had experience with, "Fast Motor Flush, 5-Minute 
> Engine Cleaner, by CRC (www.crcindustries.com, part #05336)".  I 
> bought two cans because of the amount of oil used in the engine.  
If 
> I need it, I have it, if I don't need it, I can return it.
> 
> The question is, do I need it, or did I buy two cans of "snake 
oil"?  
> Is what the auto store guy said true?  Since I will be changing 
over 
> to synthetic oil, is it possible that not using a motor flush 
prior 
> to the change, can damage my engine?
> 
> Looking for answers and clarity.
> 
> Thank you,
> Ben Ferguson
> Arizona DeLorean Club, VIN 10365
> American Hydrogen Association
> captainhydrogen_at_dml_c...




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 23:10:30 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Re: changing to synthetic oil

There is a product that you can buy at most stores called Reslone that will
free up most stuck rings and clean out the oil flow system. follow
directions on the label.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com





-----Original Message-----
From: Harold McElraft [mailto:hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com]
Sent: Monday, September 13, 2004 5:25 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: changing to synthetic oil


I don't know that I buy the congealed oil stuff, but I did
experience what I believed to be some stuck piston rings in a D that
had been sitting for over five years. My concern was getting oil
flow open to the rings and dissolving any sludge, etc. My search
turned up a product made in Germany called LM Lubro Moly Oil Sludge
Remover. I found it at a foreign auto parts store in Houston. I have
not seen it at the usual places like NAPA, etal. The parts manager
had a B28 Volvo and said he had used it in his engine and thought it
was great stuff. So I decided to try it.

This stuff is to be used before an oil change for about 200 miles
and drained hot. I did that. The oil I drained was only a 1000 miles
old and was it black. After that, no more noisy pistons and the oil
stayed clean. That was about 45,000 miles ago. That's the only time
I have used the sludge remover and it seemed to do the job.

Harold McElraft - 3354



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "captain_hydrogen"
<captainhydrogen_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> [MODERATOR'S NOTE: The debate on preferred motor oil comes up
often and this will not be one of those debates. This is not a
question about what the best motor oil is and responses of that form
will be dumped as being repetitive with the massive archive we have
on oil.]
>
> I will be changing to Mobil 1 Synthetic next weekend and would
like
> some opinions or factual information concerning something the guy
at
> the auto store said.  I told him that prior to buying my DeLorean,
it
> sat dormant for a few years with all fluids present.  He said that
> over time, sediment can gather in the bottom of the oil pan and
other
> places and when changing over to synthetic oil, the smaller
molecules
> of the synthetic medium can loosen the old sediment and
> cause "chunks" of congealed oil to clog the passage ways.  He
> suggested that I use a motor flush prior to changing oil and
pointed
> me to the motor flush section.  He said that anyone will work, but
> pointed to one he had experience with, "Fast Motor Flush, 5-Minute
> Engine Cleaner, by CRC (www.crcindustries.com, part #05336)".  I
> bought two cans because of the amount of oil used in the engine.
If
> I need it, I have it, if I don't need it, I can return it.
>
> The question is, do I need it, or did I buy two cans of "snake
oil"?
> Is what the auto store guy said true?  Since I will be changing
over
> to synthetic oil, is it possible that not using a motor flush
prior
> to the change, can damage my engine?
>
> Looking for answers and clarity.
>
> Thank you,
> Ben Ferguson
> Arizona DeLorean Club, VIN 10365
> American Hydrogen Association
> captainhydrogen_at_dml_c...




To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Yahoo! Groups Links









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2004 05:22:04 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Engine Oil "Enemas"

Rings are lubricated by oil slung up from the crankshaft. Hard to
imagine anything interfering with that.

Oil galleys are a different story altogether. I once bought a 1982 AMC
with so much crap in its oil passages that the lifters couldn't pump
up properly. Cleaned them out by idling with diesel fuel in the
crankcase. Car has worked flawlessly since (gave it to my little
brother, where it continues in daily service). 

PRV has legendary oil delivery problems. Volvo newsgroups are full of
tales of clogged passages and orifices. Excessive engine heat surely
doesn't help (barbeques the oil). Anything you can do to keep them
clear & flowing is an improvement.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> I don't know that I buy the congealed oil stuff, but I did 
> experience what I believed to be some stuck piston rings in a D that 
> had been sitting for over five years. My concern was getting oil 
> flow open to the rings and dissolving any sludge, etc. My search 
> turned up a product made in Germany called LM Lubro Moly Oil Sludge 
> Remover. I found it at a foreign auto parts store in Houston. I have 
> not seen it at the usual places like NAPA, etal. The parts manager 
> had a B28 Volvo and said he had used it in his engine and thought it 
> was great stuff. So I decided to try it.
> 
> This stuff is to be used before an oil change for about 200 miles 
> and drained hot. I did that. The oil I drained was only a 1000 miles 
> old and was it black. After that, no more noisy pistons and the oil 
> stayed clean. That was about 45,000 miles ago. That's the only time 
> I have used the sludge remover and it seemed to do the job.
> 
> Harold McElraft - 3354
> 
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "captain_hydrogen" 
> <captainhydrogen_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> > [MODERATOR'S NOTE: The debate on preferred motor oil comes up 
> often and this will not be one of those debates. This is not a 
> question about what the best motor oil is and responses of that form 
> will be dumped as being repetitive with the massive archive we have 
> on oil.]
> > 
> > I will be changing to Mobil 1 Synthetic next weekend and would 
> like 
> > some opinions or factual information concerning something the guy 
> at 
> > the auto store said.  I told him that prior to buying my DeLorean, 
> it 
> > sat dormant for a few years with all fluids present.  He said that 
> > over time, sediment can gather in the bottom of the oil pan and 
> other 
> > places and when changing over to synthetic oil, the smaller 
> molecules 
> > of the synthetic medium can loosen the old sediment and 
> > cause "chunks" of congealed oil to clog the passage ways.  He 
> > suggested that I use a motor flush prior to changing oil and 
> pointed 
> > me to the motor flush section.  He said that anyone will work, but 
> > pointed to one he had experience with, "Fast Motor Flush, 5-Minute 
> > Engine Cleaner, by CRC (www.crcindustries.com, part #05336)".  I 
> > bought two cans because of the amount of oil used in the engine.  
> If 
> > I need it, I have it, if I don't need it, I can return it.
> > 
> > The question is, do I need it, or did I buy two cans of "snake 
> oil"?  
> > Is what the auto store guy said true?  Since I will be changing 
> over 
> > to synthetic oil, is it possible that not using a motor flush 
> prior 
> > to the change, can damage my engine?
> > 
> > Looking for answers and clarity.
> > 
> > Thank you,
> > Ben Ferguson
> > Arizona DeLorean Club, VIN 10365
> > American Hydrogen Association
> > captainhydrogen_at_dml_c...




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 22:01:45 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Rear Sway Bar

In a message dated 9/12/04 10:58:04 PM Central Daylight Time, 
tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com writes:


> I've mentioned on the List before that one of the many items on 
> my "projects to do" list is to come up with a better fit than the 
> currently available bar.  I lost almost 2 inches of precious ground 
> clearance due to the bracket location and the thickness of my 
> reinforcement doublers - this is a real issue in the real world of 
> speed bumps and dips in the roadway.  I felt that this project 
> shouldn't be near the top of the list due to limited demand, but ...

Toby,

If you make it, I will buy it. I have a suspension rebuild scheduled in the 
next year and this would be a welcome addition, "while i am at it".

Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 21:59:01 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Steering Rack Enigma?

In a message dated 9/12/04 10:47:31 PM Central Daylight Time, 
Rustproof_at_dml_comcast.net writes:


> Should there be any play at all in a properly assembled unit? 
> 

Rustproof,

no there shouldn't. I recently installed one of Grady's rebuilt racks, one of 
Tinnerstedt's steering linkage sets with ball bearing U-joints, and new tie 
rod ends.  aside from having to tighten the U-joints a couple times (hopefully 
this will not be chronic), i have had no problems and have absolutely NO play 
in the steering wheel.  if the car is stopped, you cannot jiggle the wheel 
even the slightest fraction of an inch.  it was about a $700 job, but it was 
worth it, even just for the confidence/stability feeling.

Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2004 01:07:34 -0400
From: motarhedd_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Another Non-Starting D


Hey all,

I've been reading up on this subject in the archives. I had just replaced the vacuum lines the last time i touched it 2wks ago. i had a problem with the throttle sticking also. since the massive amounts of rain here in FL, and waiting for two weeks for my tag to arrive, my D has been just been sitting in the driveway.
So today i tried starting it, and it would turn over and over, but not start. i replaced the batt. thinking it was weak after only 2wks. Same thing. Pulled a plug, got spark.
turned the engine over to see if i could see or smell any fuel. Nothing, no fuel that i could tell. So im not sure if im doing this right, but i pulled a hose off the warm-up regulator and tried to see if it would spray fuel into a container i found while cranking. Nothing. Also tried this on the fuel distributor, same thing. Dad's advice was to jumper out the THERMOTIME Switch connector, nothing again.

Another thing i noticed was the IDLE SPEED REGULATOR was buzzing. is this normal? it seems kind of loose, as far as the pipe that goes intothe intake wasnt secured, and i was able to pull it out of the intake easily. whats up with this?

any help is appreciated,
Thanks,
Russell
Vin#1790



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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2004 12:32:08 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Brake lights not working

It's most likely the switch though. I've seen several bad ones in the 
past year (not all in the same car). 

Dave S

> Check that brake light switch. It doesn't just bolt into place. It 
is 
> adjustable, so that you can increase, or decrease the travel of the 
> brake pedal, before the lights turn on when you press.
> > -Robert
> vin 6585 "X"




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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2004 13:02:11 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Original dealer/mechanic discovered

Hello all,

I recently discovered a local car club that has been meeting right 
under my nose. I drove my DeLorean there to show and meet new people. 
It turns out the the club Vice President, Mark Lehmann worked at a 
Cadillac/DeLorean dealership in Silver Springs, MD selling and 
working on the cars. He also still knows of one of the dealership's 
hardcore primary DeLorean mechanics.

It's not earth-shattering news but it's always neat to meet people 
who were involved with the cars in the beginning, like Don Steger and 
the rest.

I've been meaning to ask, when the cars were first sold, were there 
any television commercials advertising them or was it all billboards, 
magazines and the like? Does anyone have copies of the commercials?

Thanks,

Rich A.
#5335




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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2004 10:45:19 -0000
From: "Ratfink65" <dennis.p.lowery_at_dml_lmco.com>
Subject: Re: Scotch Brite Pads

I've had good luck with a 3M pad that I bought from Grainger.com 
Currently they sell for $1.58 for 1, and the price goes down to $1.42 
when you buy 10 (1 case). Their stock number is 4ZR12 and is 
available from this address:

www.grainger.com/Grainger/productdetail.jsp?xi=xi&ItemId=1611748244

Dennis Lowery
VIN 4797


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "EJ Chambers" <marmieej_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Hello All:
> 
> This may be a stupid question, but for graining the SS panels, can 
you
> use the green scotch brite pads you can buy in any store? What is 
the
> difference between these and the ones the vendors sell?
> 
> Thanks!
> Ej
> 4475




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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2004 14:15:09 -0000
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: Brake light 3rd

Group, I have added to the accessories page the Corvette 3rd brake 
light which looks like it was made for the Delorean. I was able to 
get 3 of them for now.
Here is the link.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/accessories.html






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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2004 14:37:15 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: RE: Re: Vapor Lock --> A deflector shield

A defelctor under the car could have aerodynamic consequences.  Deflecting air
downward will cause lift on an already light front end.  The shape of the deflector
will determine the degree of change in lift.

--
Mike

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2004 10:53:09 -0400
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_fuse.net>
Subject: Dave Bauerle's Fuel Tank Protector

Dave Bauerle installed mine about 2 or 3 years ago...never had a problem 
with the fuel pickup hose collapsing again.  It's exactly how you 
describe it...just a sheet of foam rubber screwed into the back of the 
front frame extension.  Works to divert the hot air the fans are sucking 
off the radiator under the car rather than over the gas tank.  I firmly 
believe that if DeLorean had stayed in business, we would have seen this 
improvement in the design in 1984 or 85.

Dave made sure to drizzle some POR15 in around the affected area on the 
frame, to keep it from rusting after he drilled the holes, and used 
stainless steel screws as well.

-Josh



Bob Brandys wrote:

>I remember years ago, someone was making an air diverter that went 
>behind the radiator so that the hot air did not blow onto the gas tank.  
>
>I also remember hearing that a number of people installed these and that 
>they really did work.  
>
>Anyone else remember this.?  Anyone  know any of the details or has a 
>car with one of these?
>
>
>This might by useful with this vapor lock issue.
>
>
>BOB
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
> 
>
>
>  
>





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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2004 08:10:04 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rod Dillman <rhdillman_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Fuel Pump Care

The postings about fuel temperature in the gas tank cause me to believe a theory and practice that I have had may be valid. I have always felt that heat helps to shorten the life of a fuel pump. It has always been my practice to try and keep my fuel tank at least half full, the theory being that the more gasoline that is in the tank the cooler it will be. In a DeLorean a half full tank is only 6 or 7 gallons, in one of my Cadillacs half full is 13.5 gallons since it has a 27 gallon tank. I believe that the relatively small tank on the DeLorean makes it even more important to fill up often in order to lower the tank temperature especially on hot summer days and interstate driving. While I have no proof that a fuller gasoline tank is better for the fuel pump, the practice has little down side other than causing a few extra stops which your lady will appreciate.

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2004 08:21:59 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Temperature.

While I can't say that fuel temperature is a problem
as far as vapor lock is concerned, I know that I have
experienced an extrememly noisy fuel pump when the
fuel gets hot.  

We all know that a fuel pump "hum" is not uncommon,
but when the fuel gets hot, my pump "shouts".  As soon
as I pull into a service station and fill up with cool
fuel, the noise goes away (for a while).  Most of the
time it takes about a half a tank before the noise
gets unbearable.  I've even had cars next to me at the
stoplight and they hear the noise over the fans!!

I do have the rubber "baffle" that is supposed to
direct the air downwards away from the tank.  

Recently I have seen rather compact fuel "coolers" in
hot rod and performance car magazines.  Has anyone
tried one of these?

Dick Ryan
VIN 16867

--- Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:

> 
> Have anyone verified that Fuel Temperature is a
> problem?  Cold fuel is more efficient, but many
> people
> drive their DeLoreans in hot climate with no
> problems.
> 
> Many years back, there was someone selling a rubber
> shield that blocked the hot air coming out of the
> radiator from blowing over the fuel tank.
> 
> I don't remember who it was, but I have seen a few
> installed on cars.  Looked to be a good idea,
> although
> I saw no data to prove it was effective.
> 
> 
> --- tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com wrote:
> 
> <SNIP>
> 
> > felt like it was burning his skin.  Between the
> hot
> > air blowing on 
> > the tank from the radiator, and the fuel being
> > returned to the tank 
> > from the engine compartment as part of the
> > recirculation that goes on 
> > continuously in the DeLorean, the fuel was heated
> to
> > a significant 
> > degree (pun intended).  Here's the question for
> the
> <SNIP>
> 
> 
> 		
> _______________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Express yourself with Y! Messenger! Free. Download
> now. 
> http://messenger.yahoo.com
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
>     dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 
> 



		
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 21
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2004 10:45:25 -0400
From: "Richard Strecker" <dmc1219_at_dml_one.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Vapor Lock

I have one that I obtained from David Bauerly and installed many years ago.
I had the problem before I installed it & haven't had a problem since.
Sounds like a commercial!!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Brandys" <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 14, 2004 9:54 AM
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: Vapor Lock


> I remember years ago, someone was making an air diverter that went
> behind the radiator so that the hot air did not blow onto the gas tank.
>
> I also remember hearing that a number of people installed these and that
> they really did work.
>
> Anyone else remember this.?  Anyone  know any of the details or has a
> car with one of these?
>
>
> This might by useful with this vapor lock issue.
>
>
> BOB
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 22
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2004 09:32:31 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Advertising.

Here is the commercial:

http://www.entermyworld.com/dsontv/comm/comm1.zip


<SNIP>
> I've been meaning to ask, when the cars were first
> sold, were there 
> any television commercials advertising them or was
> it all billboards, 
> magazines and the like? Does anyone have copies of
> the commercials?
<SNIP>



		
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Declare Yourself - Register online to vote today!
http://vote.yahoo.com



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 23
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2004 13:29:37 -0400
From: Peter Lucas <lucas_at_dml_Maya.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump Care

Why would having more gasoline in the tank make it cooler? *Adding* gas 
would certainly cool things down, but that would be a transient effect. 
Keeping the tank full will increase the thermal mass and reduce the 
*variability* of the temperature, but it seems to me that--depending on 
the change of outside temperature--it would be as likely to raise the 
fuel temperature as to lower it.  No?
--Pete Lucas
   VIN #06703

On Sep 14, 2004, at 11:10 AM, Rod Dillman wrote:

> The postings about fuel temperature in the gas tank cause me to 
> believe a theory and practice that I have had may be valid. I have 
> always felt that heat helps to shorten the life of a fuel pump. It has 
> always been my practice to try and keep my fuel tank at least half 
> full, the theory being that the more gasoline that is in the tank the 
> cooler it will be. In a DeLorean a half full tank is only 6 or 7 
> gallons, in one of my Cadillacs half full is 13.5 gallons since it has 
> a 27 gallon tank. I believe that the relatively small tank on the 
> DeLorean makes it even more important to fill up often in order to 
> lower the tank temperature especially on hot summer days and 
> interstate driving. While I have no proof that a fuller gasoline tank 
> is better for the fuel pump, the practice has little down side other 
> than causing a few extra stops which your lady will appreciate.




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 24
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2004 13:23:28 -0400
From: Michael Paine <mpaine_at_dml_tycomsystems.com>
Subject: Re: Another Non-Starting D

It soulds like the fuel pump might not be running... you can place a jumper
(paper clip) on the RPM relay harness (Brown wire and White/Purple wire - verify
in your manual) and that will make the fuel pump run continously - see if that
gets gas to the engine; I am sorry I don't know the next step... but if there is
no fuel - maybe you have a bad pump.

Regards,

Michael
vin 6067

Quoting motarhedd_at_dml_aol.com:

> 
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> I've been reading up on this subject in the archives. I had just replaced the
> vacuum lines the last time i touched it 2wks ago. i had a problem with the
> throttle sticking also. since the massive amounts of rain here in FL, and
> waiting for two weeks for my tag to arrive, my D has been just been sitting
> in the driveway.
> So today i tried starting it, and it would turn over and over, but not start.
> i replaced the batt. thinking it was weak after only 2wks. Same thing. Pulled
> a plug, got spark.
> turned the engine over to see if i could see or smell any fuel. Nothing, no
> fuel that i could tell. So im not sure if im doing this right, but i pulled a
> hose off the warm-up regulator and tried to see if it would spray fuel into a
> container i found while cranking. Nothing. Also tried this on the fuel
> distributor, same thing. Dad's advice was to jumper out the THERMOTIME Switch
> connector, nothing again.
> 
> Another thing i noticed was the IDLE SPEED REGULATOR was buzzing. is this
> normal? it seems kind of loose, as far as the pipe that goes intothe intake
> wasnt secured, and i was able to pull it out of the intake easily. whats up
> with this?
> 
> any help is appreciated,
> Thanks,
> Russell
> Vin#1790
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 
> 





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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 25
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2004 13:51:11 EDT
From: ttanaka504_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Fuel Temperature.



     Hello list

          May I tell you my solution...
          
         I made two separated (the upper and lower sides) covers 
behind of a radiator fan. A top is T-style, and a bottom is
just front of steering rack. I fixed them by a packaging.

        Those cover are great. Not only lower the fuel tank temperature.
Covers protect a steering rack from rust and reduce a noise from a fan. 

         I drove like this for 2 years include rainy and snow days.
I did not have any problem yet. However it is not a perfect 
solution I guess because I still feel fuel temperature is little high.
But It is only cost $5 and works more than I am satisfied.
I hope it will help

Blacknight  


           _________________________________________ 
          l                                         l
          l                                         l 
          l___________                  ____________l
                     l                  l
                     l__________________l
          __________________________________________ 
         l         :                       :          l
         l         :                       :          l
         l_________:_______________________:__________l
         





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


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