From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2230
Date: Thursday, September 16, 2004 4:28 AM

There are 8 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Idle Speed Regulator Problem
From: "Jim Reeve" <jim.reeve_at_dml_wayzata.k12.mn.us>

2. Cold Start
From: "artbywarren" <artbywarren_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. Re: Can you clean paint off of the rub strips??
From: "p12c16" <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com>

4. Re: Advertising.
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

5. Re: Cold Start
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

6. Re: Cold Start
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

7. Re: powder coating the frame?
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>

8. Re: Transmission substitution?
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>





Message: 1
Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2004 20:00:34 -0000
From: "Jim Reeve" <jim.reeve_at_dml_wayzata.k12.mn.us>
Subject: Re: Idle Speed Regulator Problem

I wouldn't call it buzzing, but the Idle Speed Regulator should be
humming with the key on and engine off.  Everything I've heard from
them is more subtle than a buzzing sound, and should definately be
accompanied by a vibration.  Put your hand on it, you should feel it.
 Yes, it is normal.

Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minneosota DeLorean Club
DMC6960

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, motarhedd_at_dml_a... wrote:
> I mentioned this in my other post, but i thought i was a serious
enough problem for its own thread.
> 
> when the key is in the on position the ISR buzzes, is this a normal
thing?
> 
> Thanks,
> Russell
> Vin#1790





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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2004 19:07:12 -0000
From: "artbywarren" <artbywarren_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Cold Start

Hi, everyone!

My DMC and I have come a relatively long way in the past year, and 
we've been restoring her little by little during this time. We were 
just about to take her to the "Sports Car Clinic" (a very reputable 
Bosch exotic car shop) when, for no apparent reason, she won't start. 
She'll crank and crank and crank.. and tries her best to catch, but 
never does.. but ONLY when you try and start her cold. ..ONLY. 

Over the past.. probably month.. she has had a harder and harder time 
cold-starting. Now, when you DO get her to start, and you go out for 
a drive and get it nice and hot, then turn off the key and start it 
again, it fires up faster than you can blink. But as of now, she 
won't start at all. It's not the charge, I'm sure.. her lights are 
bright, and she has a relatively new alternator.

On her first trip to the Clinic, she had fuel contamination, but the 
guys managed to save the fuel pump, warm up regulator, all injectors, 
ect.. besides.. she doesn't have the fuel problems now.. when you get 
going, it runs like nobody's business! Awesome to drive!

I spoke to Rob a while back and on the list of things he had on file 
that were not repaired when he had it in his posession, (which was 
the fault of an uncaring previous owner) was the starting coil. (he 
remarked that it was the wrong one, but not broken, although if it 
were him he would want to remedy that).

Also, in the paperwork I got when I brought her back from the Clinic 
the first time, they had stated that the cold start was wired wrong 
(rigged) but that they remedied that. Poor car.. I've put so much 
into her and she just doesn't want to give back.. The previous owners 
had Rob do approximately Six grand worth to her, and since I've had 
her, I've probably sunk in at least Four. ..Plus I still need to 
eventually replace the TAB's and I want to put in a new Computer 
Governer to try and smooth out the shifts.

OK, OK.. anyway.. lol!  Can someone tell me as to why she won't cold-
start?  Also, any VA owners, I'd love to hear from you!

Thanks!

Warren and Heather
Black Auto. #0809




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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2004 22:32:50 -0000
From: "p12c16" <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Can you clean paint off of the rub strips??

And if the lacquer thinner makes it look faded and dull, you can always mask off the 
stainless and hit the rub strips with a little bumper black or any good black spray paint 
that will stick to it.  They should come out looking new if there aren't any big chunks 
missing.

Patrick
1880




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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2004 15:43:28 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Advertising.

I have a first generation copy from the master.  Maybe
I will get together with Kevin and get it posted to
the Delorean Midatlantic web site.


--- jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:

> does a decent version of this commercial exist
> somewhere in the world.  Looks like a recording of a
> BETAMAX tape that was recovered from an airline
> crash site.
>  
> jordan
> 11613



		
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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2004 22:56:14 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: Cold Start

Warren - We just had a local car with a cold start problem.  The 
owner took apart the warm-up regulator, and all *appeared* to be 
okay.  However, on further examination, it wasn't passing fuel at 
all.  There was some internal sludge buildup that had totally clogged 
the passage way for fuel flow. He was able to force some solvent 
through it with compressed air, and got the flow going.  The cold 
start problem was solved with that.  The bottom line - you may want 
to consider either replacing or completely cleaning the CPR (or warm 
up regulator) to solve this.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "artbywarren" <artbywarren_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:
> Hi, everyone!
> 
> My DMC and I have come a relatively long way in the past year, and 
> we've been restoring her little by little during this time. We were 
> just about to take her to the "Sports Car Clinic" (a very reputable 
> Bosch exotic car shop) when, for no apparent reason, she won't 
start. 
> She'll crank and crank and crank.. and tries her best to catch, but 
> never does.. but ONLY when you try and start her cold. ..ONLY. 
> 





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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2004 23:24:06 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Cold Start

I would go over the cold start circuit very carefully checking
everything. You can also try a SMALL shot of ether (starting fluid)
when cold to rule out any ignition problem. The other circuit to check
is the ignition bypass circuit. It is supposed to supply full voltage
to the coil when starting. Low compression and worn spark plugs can
also cause hard cold starting. If the ignition parts are old maybe a
tune-up is required. The ignition wires could be breaking down.
Generally a problem like this is a little of this and a little of that
with no exact cause. Vacuum leaks can be among the causes too. If the
trans is shifting badly don't wait too long to do something about it.
Hard shifting and erratic shifting is VERY hard on the auto trans and
has been known to do serious (read expensive) internal damage.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "artbywarren" <artbywarren_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Hi, everyone!
> 
> My DMC and I have come a relatively long way in the past year, and 
> we've been restoring her little by little during this time. We were 
> just about to take her to the "Sports Car Clinic" (a very reputable 
> Bosch exotic car shop) when, for no apparent reason, she won't start. 
> She'll crank and crank and crank.. and tries her best to catch, but 
> never does.. but ONLY when you try and start her cold. ..ONLY. 
> 
> Over the past.. probably month.. she has had a harder and harder time 
> cold-starting. Now, when you DO get her to start, and you go out for 
> a 




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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2004 18:39:19 -0500
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>
Subject: Re: powder coating the frame?

Jeff,

Beautiful frame and engine. Hope you bring it to DCS 2006 in Chicago.






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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2004 18:45:37 -0500
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>
Subject: Re: Transmission substitution?

John,

THere is some information on this transconversion on the Delorean 
Midwest Connection (See 97 Delorean)  website and in an article in 
Delorean World magazine.

THe stock automatic in the D is a ZF 3 transmission.   The  next version 
was a ZF4 -4 speed overdrive automatic..  IT is approximately the same 
size at the D transmission and fits the D frame.  

The best one to get is an HP22HL  from an early 80s Porsche.  The trick 
is to get a custom behousing made (which is removable from the trans) to 
match the engine.  

BOB




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