From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2239
Date: Tuesday, September 21, 2004 4:32 AM

There are 19 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Sudden acceleration syndrome?
From: "Christopher Hawes" <chris_at_dml_hawes74.freeserve.co.uk>

2. Re: Sudden acceleration syndrome?
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>

3. Re: DELOREAN AUTO TRANS SWAP
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

4. RE: Brake light 3rd
From: Chris Shepherd <chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com>

5. Re: Brake light 3rd
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

6. Re: Burned engine oil
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

7. Re: DELOREAN AUTO TRANS SWAP
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

8. Re: Slightly high idle when warm
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

9. Radiator mounting differences in 83 models?
From: "Scott McMullan" <mcmullas_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>

10. Re: Factory Shifts/Key Code
From: kevin creason <kcreason77_at_dml_yahoo.com>

11. Re: Burned engine oil
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

12. Re: Burned engine oil
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

13. Re: Re: DeLorean turns over, but won't start?
From: bc007carrington_at_dml_aol.com

14. Yet Another Oil Thread
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

15. Re: DELOREAN AUTO TRANS SWAP
From: Jeff Angwin <jeff_at_dml_angwin.us>

16. Re: Re: Sudden acceleration syndrome?
From: Chris Shepherd <chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com>

17. Re: Factory Shifts/Key Code
From: Warren Turkal <wt_at_dml_midsouth.rr.com>

18. RE: Re: Alternate Car Seats ???
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_bwig.net>

19. Re: Burned engine oil
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2004 23:12:32 +0100
From: "Christopher Hawes" <chris_at_dml_hawes74.freeserve.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Sudden acceleration syndrome?

I had this and it turned out to be my idle computer..... swap it with
another owner to prove that this one.  It is located in the panel on the
drivers side of the rear parcel shelf.  Simply unscrew and unplug as it is I
suppose a late 70's attempt at plug and play technology....

Regards

Chris Hawes
vin 5255

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chris Shepherd" <chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, September 20, 2004 9:28 PM
Subject: [DML] Sudden acceleration syndrome?


> I have a problem that has me scratching my head, soon to be banging
against wall. My idle will suddenly increase from 780 to 2600. Not just at
idle either. The first time it happened I was going down the road and it
seemed like I had hit "resume" on a cruise control (no, there isn't one and
never has been). It may stay at the 2600 idle for several 



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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2004 23:34:29 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>
Subject: Re: Sudden acceleration syndrome?

Chris,

I just resolved an almost exact problem with another club members
car yesterday.  FYI - the car is an early 82 model automatic that
is garage kept and very well maintained.  He described the problem
to me a few days ago, in almost the exact details you mentioned.

Idle had always been rock solid at about 750, then, out of nowhere
the idle shot up to 1800 - 2200 a few times and up to 2600 once.
There is no cruise control on this car but from what I understand,
your "resume" example is an accurate description of what happens.

This is the Idle Control Computer or Idle Control ECU.  This is
the black box computer under the parcel shelf behind the driver's
seat.  The best way to verify that this is actually the problem
is to swap it with a known good computer from another Delorean.

If you have another Delorean owner located near you, this is a
check that can be done with a Philips screwdriver in 5 minutes.
You cannot "hurt" this part by trying it in another car, but make
sure to have the key OFF before connecting or disconnecting it.

I swapped out a spare that I had from an early VIN 81 model and
that one seemed to idle low (500-600) on the 82, so I swapped out
a spare that I had from a late VIN 81 model and that one appeared
to fix the problem perfectly.  Although there may be no difference
in the VIN association with this part, there were discussions on
the DML a while back suggesting there may be two different models.

I have a feeling that this may be one of those parts that has less
than a 25 year life-span and we may be seeing more failures in the
near future.  The good news is there seems to be a decent supply
of replacement parts.  Bad news is that a new one can be 3 bills.

Good Luck and let the list know if this fixes the problem.

Later,
Rich W.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Chris Shepherd <chrisau79_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:
> I have a problem that has me scratching my head, soon to be 
banging against wall. My idle will suddenly increase from 780 to 
2600. Not just at idle either. The first time it happened I was 
going down the road and it seemed like I had hit "resume" on a 
cruise control (no, there isn't one and never has been). It may stay 
at the 2600 idle for several minutes, up to 60, or it may just go up 
and then down and anything in between. Hard to explain and VERY 
annoying. 
>  
> snip <




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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2004 22:00:17 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: DELOREAN AUTO TRANS SWAP

Jay - As far as I know, the engine itself is identical between the 5-
speed and the automatic.  You will have to remove the flywheel and 
other clutch components from the "new" engine, and replace them with 
the flex plate and torque converter from the automatic 
configuration.  The starter and other ancilliary parts should work 
just fine.  The subject line of your post is kind of misleading in 
terms of what you are actually asking about (BTW).  This would be a 
good time to take the torque converter and have it completely cleaned 
out and inspected.  Also, the engine rear main seal and transmission 
front seal can be easily changed at this time, just to be on the safe 
side.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248  "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Wizard" <wizard_at_dml_t...> wrote:
> I have an 81 DeLorean (automatic trans) and want to swap the ENGINE
> only, not the transmission with a spare engine out of an 81 DeLorean
> (standard trans).  Anyone done this before?  Any issues I should 
know about.
> 
> Any input would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> JAY




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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2004 15:45:03 -0700 (PDT)
From: Chris Shepherd <chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Brake light 3rd

I really don't remember but would guess '95 or '96. I think they used the same one for a number of years.
 
Chris

Scott Mueller <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com> wrote:
What year Suburban?

Scott Mueller 002981


-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Shepherd [mailto:chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com] 
Sent: Monday, September 20, 2004 11:13 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Brake light 3rd




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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2004 23:01:54 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Brake light 3rd

Say, that is nice. I've never seen one of these mounted on the top of 
the louvers before, so I had no idea what the looked like. Hence why 
I went with the Corvette light.

Any pics of what this looks like when illuminated? A head on shot is 
good, but since you're in a garage, a shot of the light washing the 
garage door, with the lights off would be great. That would give us 
an idea of both how bright the LEDs are, and how spread out their beam
(s) are. The 4 bulb incandesent lamps are both bright, and can be 
seen from some wide angles.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "bkp944" <bk_pollard_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> > Chris Shepherd <chrisau79_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> > My personal preference, and choice, is the LED strip from a 
> Suburban. It looks like it was original to the D.
> 
> 
> I agree with Chris. I installed this LED strip also and went a step 
> further by adding a flasher unit to the strip. Now, for the 1st 5 
> seconds after the brake pedal is depressed, the LED strip flashes. 
> If the brake pedal is left depressed past that, the strip lights 
> continuously.
> 



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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2004 23:55:58 -0000
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Burned engine oil

The car is standard transmission. The oil isn't like bright red- isn't
even close to AT fluid! It was very very dark maroon, it was hard to
tell if it was black or that maroon color but you could tell it wasn't
fully black. Drip it on something white and you could definitly tell
it was a dark maroonish color. Engine has 65K on it, I don't remember
what oil type it was or even the weight, but right now I put in 10W30
because it's getting cold in my area at this time of year. I probably
should be using the 20W40 as Mr. Hervey indicated but too late now.
Nonetheless, I'm just trying to find out if its a pressure issue, not
how or when to change my oil. Engine isn't burning any at the rings,
I'm just hoping it isn't something wrong with the internals of the
engine. I was told this car sat in North Carolina prior to when I got
it, how long is unknown. In Feb. when the engine was out, I had the
pan off and everything looked fine. But like I said this is the only
time in the years owning the car I've had weird burned oil drain out.
Probably is nothing to worry about, but I figured I would ask you
guys...


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> RED and BURNED?
> Are you sure you didn't drain the TRANSMISSION?





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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2004 00:03:44 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: DELOREAN AUTO TRANS SWAP

Just make sure that the two roll pins (alignment pins) are back in 
place. Sometimes they stick to the engine and sometimes to the 
transmission. Doesn't matter which, but you gotta have them. If you 
end up without them in there at all, you will quickly destroy the 
gear teeth on the torque converter and maybe even the converter. If 
you have them in both places, you'll never get the engine and trans 
to mate up. 

BTDT

Dave S

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Wizard" <wizard_at_dml_t...> wrote:
> I have an 81 DeLorean (automatic trans) and want to swap the ENGINE
> only, not the transmission with a spare engine out of an 81 DeLorean
> (standard trans).  Anyone done this before?  Any issues I should 
know
> about.
> 
> Any input would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> JAY




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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2004 00:05:05 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Slightly high idle when warm

This is a symptom of a malfunctioning vacuum switch for the vacuum 
advance. Vacuum is supposed to be OFF at idle. Check for proper 
function and correct hose routing to/from thermo vacuum switch, warm-
up regulator, and vacuum advance switch. There are several other 
possibilities too including the idle speed motor and associated 
electrics of the activating switch, proper throttle valve 
adjustment, linkage adjustments, and the main idle screw could be 
open (it should be closed).

Harold McElraft - 3354




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "D F" <funkstuf_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> Everything went perfect.. and.. I checked gas mileage which turned 
out to be 
> between 27 and 28 for the whole trip..   At this point, and after 
doing most 
> everything to my car the only issue seems to be that it idles at 
1000 rpms.  
> I've checked every spot for air leaks and so have several 
mechanics.. Any 
> idea why it would idle at 1000 when it's warm.. It seems to be at 
750 when I 
> first start it.
> 
> Dale Funk
> #4984
> 





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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2004 20:13:09 -0400
From: "Scott McMullan" <mcmullas_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>
Subject: Radiator mounting differences in 83 models?


I'm having my original radiator and fans replaced with the 3-core radiator
and quiet fans from John Hervey (can't wait to NOT hear my fans!).

The shop that's doing the work for me has encountered some difficulty
getting the new assembly to mount properly.  It was my understanding that
this assembly should be a drop-in replacement for an original radiator and
fans, but clearly it's not this time. I have contacted John Hervey about the
matter to see what input he has, but I also wanted to ask the list if anyone
out there has seen differences in the radiator mounting in different model
year or market cars.  My car is a Canadian '83 model, so it's possible that
there is some little-known manufacturing difference that someone is aware
of.

It's also possible that there's something custom going on under there; I
know I have a very unusual grille in front of my car
(http://www.sixgeeks.org/~scott/DeLorean/falltour4/100_0441.JPG) ... which
I'd like to replace with something more standard sometime, but not until I
see either a great deal on one or I'm done working on more important things.

As this problem is very new and my car isn't in my driveway, I don't have
any pictures to share of just what it looks like under there.

And while we're on the topic, if anyone out there needs an original radiator
/ fan set, contact me off-list.  I would love to keep the parts off the
scrap heap.

Thanks!
--Scott




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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2004 17:21:09 -0700 (PDT)
From: kevin creason <kcreason77_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Factory Shifts/Key Code

No, that is not a key code.
That date is probably your car finished the rough
assembling. Interesting.
So... if #4494 is one of the first cars built in
October, at a rate of 58 cars a day (1,800 cars from
the dmcnews chronology divided by 31 days) that puts
my car (#4687) just a few days before my eleventh
birthday. :-(
Although.. September was a low build month compared to
both August and October... so that make me think there
must be some ramp-up speed!
September looks to be about 25 cars per day, so let's
say the first week continues at 30 cars per day
equaling 210 cars for October 1-7; that means we have
to see them get 1,590 cars by the 31st. This raises
the rate to 66 cars a day and I still miss it.
Oh well... I can still believe what I want to believe
unless James or anyone finds something to tell me
otherwise. Just don't tell me. 
No, wait, tell me anyway.



--- bkp944 <bk_pollard_at_dml_hotmail.com> wrote:

> I pulled the headliner off my driver's door for the
> first time.
> 
> Written inside was:
> "October 1st / 12:40 am"
> 
> My car, #4494, is an October '81 build. Is it
> possible 4494 was the 
> first car completed in October '81?
> 



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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2004 19:34:58 -0500
From: "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Burned engine oil

You should be using 20/50 unless you are living in freezing temps....like 
Alaska in January.
- VB


>From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [DML] Burned engine oil
>Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2004 23:55:58 -0000
>
>The car is standard transmission. The oil isn't like bright red- isn't
>even close to AT fluid! 



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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2004 00:41:30 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Burned engine oil

The burning smell may be a function of the brand of oil you used or 
oil filter failure - like in a plugged oil filter. An overheated 
engine can also contribute to a burning oil smell. I don't know 
where you are but 10w30 is not the ideal oil for a DeLorean. Simply 
put, the w is winter flow rating and the 30 is the hot flow rating 
of the oil. Depending on your cold start needs look for the correct 
w and for hot flow look for 40. 30 is too thin even with the 
quantity of oil used in the DeLorean engine. Therefore, a 5w40, 
10w40, 15w40, 20w40 are all theoretically 40 weight oils with 
different cold start flow properties. I personally prefer 5w40 but 
then I like thinner oil for all cold starting. And of course using a 
correct and quality oil filter is essential. If you ever doubt the 
filter, change it on the spot - you don't have to change the oil to 
change the filter.

Harold McElraft - 3354



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> I just changed my oil today after about 3500 miles since my last
> change. The oil came out reddish and smelled burned. Is this just
> because I didn't change it soon enough, or is this the result of a
> deeper problem-the lack of correct oil pressure? I'm not sure if 
this
> was described already on the list but- How can the pressure
> be checked? I've installed pins in all my gauges-so the needle in 
the
> oil gauge goes past the highest number and hits the pin always. I 
run
> 10W30, and have never had this problem before until now. what do 
you
> guys think? -Dani B. #5003




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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2004 20:39:51 EDT
From: bc007carrington_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: DeLorean turns over, but won't start?

try jumping with another battery. If you don't have enough cranking amps it  
will crank all day but not start. Good luck.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2004 01:24:01 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Yet Another Oil Thread

When in doubt, read the owner's manual. Paraphrased from the second 
version manual, although I recall the specs to be similar in the 
first one:

   Based on outdoor temperature when operating:
   Always above 20C (64F) - 20W50

   Between -20C and 40C (2F and 102F) - 10W20, 10W30, 10W40, 20W40.

   Below -20C (-2F) 5W20, 5W30. NOTE: This Oil Should Not be used 
when temperature is continuously above 0C (32F).

I'm always surprised how many people are using 5W30 in their car, 
only because that's whats used in most modern cars. 

This heavy oil spec is not as unusual as you may think - Other Euro 
cars of the era have similar specs. I work with older BMWs and their 
recommendations are very close to this. 

Many of the above weights are no longer sold.  A really nice 
compromise is Mobil 1 15W50 Synthetic - a bit pricey but after 
recently taking apart a 170,000 mile BMW engine that ran this stuff 
I'm a believer. Comes in 5-quart jugs at WalMart.

Dave S




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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2004 18:34:29 -0700
From: Jeff Angwin <jeff_at_dml_angwin.us>
Subject: Re: DELOREAN AUTO TRANS SWAP

There is an extra microswitch behind the throttle spool that the 
automatic equipped car has. The manual equipped car has only one, and 
the automatic equipped car has two. So, make sure you pull the extra 
microswitch from the old engine and install it on the new one.

As I recall, the extra switch closes on full throttle, and causes the 
auto trans to downshift. That way you can go "really fast" when you step 
on it.

---Jeff---
VIN 3034



Wizard wrote:

>I have an 81 DeLorean (automatic trans) and want to swap the ENGINE
>only, not the transmission with a spare engine out of an 81 DeLorean
>(standard trans).  Anyone done this before?  Any issues I should know
>about.
>
>Any input would be greatly appreciated.
>
>JAY
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
> 
>
>  
>





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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2004 18:53:35 -0700 (PDT)
From: Chris Shepherd <chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Sudden acceleration syndrome?

Thanks! After chasing vacuum hoses all day I had just about reached that conclusion. Now, if I can just find one to swap out for a test.
 
Chris

d_rex_2002 <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net> wrote:
Chris,

I just resolved an almost exact problem with another club members
car yesterday. FYI - the car is an early 82 model automatic that
is garage kept and very well maintained. He described the problem
to me a few days ago, in almost the exact details you mentioned.



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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2004 21:25:09 -0500
From: Warren Turkal <wt_at_dml_midsouth.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Factory Shifts/Key Code

On Monday 20 September 2004 10:13 am, bkp944 wrote:
> Secondly, this was also written in the door top:
> "300 901 / 11L"

Please don't publically post a suspected keycode. It just seems like you are 
asking for trouble if you do.

wt
-- 
Warren Turkal
President, GOLUM, Inc. 501(c)3
http://www.golum.org/



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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2004 21:59:45 -0500
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_bwig.net>
Subject: RE: Re: Alternate Car Seats ???


>What type of wish list do you have for replacement seats?
>
>- More sporty, with side bolsters, etc.?
>- Softer or more comfortable for long trips?
>- Leather?  Cloth?  Combinations of both?
>- Power seats, with or without heating/cooling?

What I originally was thinking was to:
- pull some seats from an existing car(scrap yard)
- have them reupholstered in cloth (I prefer cloth to leather ... go figure)
- Sporty preferred and comfortable
- Power not needed
- Heated is nice cooled would be nice also (then maybe leather is
interesting again)

The mounting is pretty straight forward (I've removed mine before and it is
pretty simple).  The bigger issue is size (length of the seat portion and
overall size)

That said, what are the good fits or am I better off going to a new seat as
mentioned by some of the replies?

Nick




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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2004 02:31:14 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Burned engine oil

Are you sure you didn't drain the transmission? Check the dipstick on
the motor and see if the oil is still in there. The drain plug on the
bottom of the manual trans is very obvious, the drain plug on the
motor crankcase is not as obvious. It is on an angle up against the
frame and doesn't look like the plug on the trans, it has an internal
square.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> The car is standard transmission. The oil isn't like bright red- isn't
> even close to AT fluid! It was very very dark maroon, it was hard to
> tell if it was black or that maroon color but you could tell it wasn't
> fully black. Drip it on something white and you could definitly tell
> it was a dark maroonish color. > 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Video Bob" <videobob_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> > RED and BURNED?
> > Are you sure you didn't drain the TRANSMISSION?




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


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