From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2240
Date: Tuesday, September 21, 2004 8:25 PM


There are 26 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Burned engine oil
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

2. Re: Sudden acceleration syndrome?
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

3. Re: Yet Another Oil Thread
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

4. Re: Auto trans leak part 3
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

5. Re: Yet Another Oil Thread
From: ttanaka504_at_dml_aol.com

6. Re: Burned engine oil
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

7. Re: Yet Another Oil Thread
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>

8. Re: Burned engine oil
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

9. Re: JC Whitney LED 3rd brake light...
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

10. RE: Delorean Mid-Atlantic "Design Out Logo" Contest! (You can win an easy $100!!!)
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>

11. Re: Yet Another Oil Thread
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

12. Re: Radiator mounting differences in 83 models?
From: "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_cox.net>

13. Re: Radiator mounting differences in 83 models?
From: "Mike" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>

14. Running too Cold
From: "Mike" <Michael.Fischer_at_dml_dittybase.com>

15. RE: Re: DELOREAN AUTO TRANS SWAP
From: "Wizard" <wizard_at_dml_tdgllc.com>

16. Re: Yet Another Oil Thread
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

17. Angle Drive (1983-VIN 16893)
From: "billeg1983" <billeg1983_at_dml_yahoo.com>

18. Re: Yet Another Oil Thread
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

19. Re: Running too Cold
From: "Mike Walsh" <yahoo_at_dml_oneskydojo.com>

20. Re: DMCH's exhaust .....yanked??
From: "James Espey" <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>

21. Re: Running too Cold
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

22. Re: Re: Burned engine oil
From: "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade_at_dml_hotmail.com>

23. serious door alignment issue
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>

24. RE: Yet Another Oil Thread
From: "Nelson, Allan" <abnelson_at_dml_waterousco.com>

25. Re: Yet Another Oil Thread
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>

26. Grid-lines over Taillights
From: Jan van de Wouw <delorean_at_dml_home.nl>





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2004 04:21:23 -0000
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Burned engine oil

You've got to be an idiot to drain the manual transmission fluid
thinking its the engine oil (sorry if there is anyone reading that has
done this). The plug is on the transmission, and is a small square
headed plug, all the way under the car. I've had my share of
concussions, but please guys I am finally healed now :P lol...It was
indeed the engine oil, and no need to check the dipstick because I had
to check it a million times to make sure I filled it with the right
amount after the oil change. So basically, it is NOT auto trans fluid,
and it WAS the engine I drained (MT Fluid will be changed in another
month or so)...If my engine was out of oil it would
have siezed up by now with all the driving I do. Doesn't the light
come on eventually as well? Any other ideas guys?? -Dani B. #5003

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...>
wrote:
> Are you sure you didn't drain the transmission? Check the dipstick
on
> the motor and see if the oil is still in there. The drain plug on
the
> bottom of the manual trans is very obvious, 



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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2004 04:26:59 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Sudden acceleration syndrome?

The other diagnostic is to temporarily disable the idle speed motor
with 3/4" vacuum caps and idle the engine manually using either the
brass screws or simply cracking the throttle plates. 

This is why I advocate knowing how to idle your PRV the "old
fashioned" way, for diagnosis if nothing else.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_o...> wrote:
> Chris,
> 
> I just resolved an almost exact problem with another club members
> car yesterday.  FYI - the car is an early 82 model automatic that
> is garage kept and very well maintained.  He described the problem
> to me a few days ago, in almost the exact details you mentioned.
> 
> Idle had always been rock solid at about 750, then, out of nowhere
> the idle shot up to 1800 - 2200 a few times and up to 2600 once.
> There is no cruise control on this car but from what I understand,
> your "resume" example is an accurate description of what happens.
> 



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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2004 04:53:34 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Yet Another Oil Thread

In 1985 Volvo issued a service bulletin substituting 10W30 for the
10W40 spec previously used in owner's manuals for B27 and B28 equipped
automobiles. Heavier oil wasn't circulating properly, leading to
premature camshaft wear. This is BTW the only official word from Volvo
regarding PRV camshaft problems (in contrast to the "soft B27
camshaft" rumor prevalent in the DeLorean community).

That same bulletin upgraded all PRV's to API grade SF oil.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> When in doubt, read the owner's manual. Paraphrased from the second 
> version manual, although I recall the specs to be similar in the 
> first one:
> 
>    Based on outdoor temperature when operating:
>    Always above 20C (64F) - 20W50
> 
>    Between -20C and 40C (2F and 102F) - 10W20, 10W30, 10W40, 20W40.
> 
>    Below -20C (-2F) 5W20, 5W30. NOTE: This Oil Should Not be used 
> when temperature is continuously above 0C (32F).
> 
> I'm always surprised how many people are using 5W30 in their car, 
> only because that's whats used in most modern cars. 
> 
> This heavy oil spec is not as unusual as you may think - Other Euro 
> cars of the era have similar specs. I work with older BMWs and their 
> recommendations are very close to this. 
> 
> Many of the above weights are no longer sold.  A really nice 
> compromise is Mobil 1 15W50 Synthetic - a bit pricey but after 
> recently taking apart a 170,000 mile BMW engine that ran this stuff 
> I'm a believer. Comes in 5-quart jugs at WalMart.
> 
> Dave S




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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2004 04:56:23 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: Auto trans leak part 3

Dave - This is quite a long shot, but we had a perplexing (and 
significant) fluid leak on our Ford Explorer.  I looked at all of 
the usual suspects, and found no source for our leak.  It continued 
to get progressively worse, until I could no longer tolerate it.  It 
turned out that a crack had developed in the torque converter input 
shaft.  The shaft is a hollow tube that runs in a lip seal on the 
front (or in the case of the DeLorean, the back) of the 
transmission, and is welded to the body of the torque converter.  
Where the two are welded, a crack had formed and had slowly grown.  
It eventually trashed the seal and the bushings that it rides in 
inside the front housing.  In any event, I think that you'd be time 
and money ahead by dropping the transmission out, rather than trying 
to work with it in situ, either with or without the engine in place.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com 

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Yes - I'm still chasing it. After another weekend of quality time 
> under the car, I'm starting to think that the leak is between the 
> auto trans and the differential. So - a couple of questions for 
the automatic transmission rebuilders out there. > --Has anyone ever 
seen this problem? 
> --Is is possible to separate the transmission from the 
differential IN the car? (NOT the whole trans-axle, just removing 
the automatic part). I'm suspecting that the leak is where the two 
join together, and if it can be separated at that point it would 
maybe save some effort.
> 





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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2004 03:07:16 EDT
From: ttanaka504_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Yet Another Oil Thread



        One example. I am using 0W20 in above 20C for 2 years.
I did not any problem so far. the engine oil contains
molybdenum. cost me $25 for 4 liters in Japan.
The oil is Toyota genuine   oil for V8 engine. 

       My opinion is this oil is pretty good as long as I dont drive hard.
When my car starts up, it is just one click to wake the engine up.
Better performance than Ex engine oil, Castrol Syntec 20W50.
    
      I dont know which oil is best, but I know I like Toyota 0W20 oil.
I dont recommend this 0W20 
However, I want list to know a fact that there is one car using 0W20 oil for 
2 years.

Blacknight  







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2004 05:32:12 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Burned engine oil

Actually Volvo disagrees with you. In late 1984 they issued a service
bulletin for all B28F, changing earlier 10W40 oil spec to 10W30. This
applied retroactively to earlier PRV's. Heavier oil wasn't flowing
properly through constricted oil orifices, leading to "Excessive
Camshaft/Rocker Arm Wear" (title of the bulletin).

DeLorean owners are well served to study history of our engines beyond
the short time frame in which DMC was buying them.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> The burning smell may be a function of the brand of oil you used or 
> oil filter failure - like in a plugged oil filter. An overheated 
> engine can also contribute to a burning oil smell. I don't know 
> where you are but 10w30 is not the ideal oil for a DeLorean. Simply 
> put, the w is winter flow rating and the 30 is the hot flow rating 
> of the oil. Depending on your cold start needs look for the correct 
> w and for hot flow look for 40. 30 is too thin even with the 
> quantity of oil used in the DeLorean engine. Therefore, a 5w40, 
> 10w40, 15w40, 20w40 are all theoretically 40 weight oils with 
> different cold start flow properties. I personally prefer 5w40 but 
> then I like thinner oil for all cold starting. And of course using a 
> correct and quality oil filter is essential. If you ever doubt the 
> filter, change it on the spot - you don't have to change the oil to 
> change the filter.
> 
> Harold McElraft - 3354
> 





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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2004 08:18:04 -0500
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>
Subject: Re: Yet Another Oil Thread

ARCO tried to market an oil with graphite back in the 70s because it had 
lower friction properties similar to moly based lubricants.  
It did not sell well and was discontinued.

THe problem was the graphite made the oil black from initial 
installation.  American car owners want to see clean clear oil in there 
cars, regardless of other advanced high pressure lubricants that have a 
dark apparance like molydinum disulfide.

Interesting that Toyota sells such an oil and Japan.  Do  you know if 
Toyota uses it in cars they sell in Japan or other countries?    Maybe 
Japaneese car owners accept the different color because they understand 
what is really going on to better protect their engine.






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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2004 12:30:17 -0000
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Burned engine oil

So I've already changed sensor 102462 (I was told this doesn't send
any info to the gauge, but mine was leaking last year), and I believe
I will need the updated 102763 pressure sender. Is there anything else
I will need to replace in order to get an accurate reading on the
gauge? Dani B #5003




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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2004 05:48:35 -0700 (PDT)
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: JC Whitney LED 3rd brake light...

"gzapf" (Daddy),

I have two of these mounted on my car under the top louver on either side of the
center support:
http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10101&productId=2186&catalogId=10101&langId=-1

This model gives you just a bit more flat surface area to put some double sided
body molding tape to stick the lights to the car. 

Which ever you choose be sure to run an inline fuse when tapping into the brake
light wires. In case there is a kink & a short, the fuse will blow and you still
will have the other two brake lights.

Shannon Y
16506
-----------

 Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2004 19:48:15 -0000
   From: "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_myrealbox.com>
Subject: JC Whitney LED 3rd brake light...

I've seen a few variations of 3rd brake lights installed on DeLoreans,
and I like the idea...  Has anyone tried or seen these:

http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/ProductDisplay/c-10101/s-10101/p-160587/mediaCode-ZX/appId-386080

They look like they might be perfect to put one on each side of the
center bar, underneath the top louvre slat.


		
_______________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Declare Yourself - Register online to vote today!
http://vote.yahoo.com



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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2004 08:16:17 -0400
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>
Subject: RE: Delorean Mid-Atlantic "Design Out Logo" Contest! (You can win an easy $100!!!)

Just over a week is left to submit your Logo Design(s) for the Delorean
Mid-Atlantic club!  So far the results have been great!  We have 19
logos that have been submitted from several different people.   It
doesn't take much..just some imagination and a little time.  You could
still be the winner of the $100 prize!!!!

See details below on how to enter.   We are looking forward to seeing
your ideas.

Kevin Abato
Vin# 16680

>  -----Original Message-----
> Bust out your Crayons, Paint, Pen and paper because Delorean
> Mid-Atlantic is proud to announce our new contest: "Design our Logo"!
> The DMA is looking for a unique logo to use on our web site, shirts,
> etc. We decided to make this into a fun contest for everyone to enjoy,
> and the winner will receive a gift certificate to P.J. Grady! You
> don't need to have any kind of graphic design talent, just some
> imagination and the will to put it on paper.
> For more information, check out web site at:
> http://www.deloreanmidatlantic.com/updates/updates.htm
> Hurry!  This contest is only open for a limited time!!!!!!
> 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2004 12:12:16 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Yet Another Oil Thread

How many miles? Two years sitting in the driveway, for example, 
wouldn't mean much. 

Why do you "like" Toyota 0-20 oil? Have you run it for over 100K 
miles and then measured the engine wear? Have you ever had it 
analyzed?

At any rate, by far the most important thing is to keep it changed 
regularly. Generally problems caused by the wrong oil take a very 
long time to show up, and a couple of years of normal driving do not 
mean much. On the other hand, let it get extrememly dirty and never 
change it, you'll toast the engine quickly. 

That's what makes oil such a religious argument, it takes a long time to see any difference under normal conditions. 

Dave S

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, ttanaka504_at_dml_a... wrote:
>         One example. I am using 0W20 in above 20C for 2 years.
> I did not any problem so far. the engine oil contains
> molybdenum. cost me $25 for 4 liters in Japan.
> The oil is Toyota genuine   oil for V8 engine. 
> 
>        My opinion is this oil is pretty good as long as I dont 
drive hard.
> When my car starts up, it is just one click to wake the engine up.
> Better performance than Ex engine oil, Castrol Syntec 20W50.
>     
>       I dont know which oil is best, but I know I like Toyota 0W20 
oil.
> I dont recommend this 0W20 
> However, I want list to know a fact that there is one car using 
0W20 oil for 
> 2 years.





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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2004 15:35:03 -0000
From: "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Radiator mounting differences in 83 models?

So what exactly is the problem the shop is having?  Not able to mount 
properly, as in too small/too big/upside-down?

Johnny
5518


> The shop that's doing the work for me has encountered some 
difficulty
> getting the new assembly to mount properly.  It was my 
understanding that
> this assembly should be a drop-in replacement for an original 
radiator and
> fans, but clearly it's not this time. 




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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2004 17:48:35 -0000
From: "Mike" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Radiator mounting differences in 83 models?

I was wondering, with your 'new' grille, has your car been modified 
for any reason in the past.... ie new brackets installed at the 
front end for any reason?

Regards

Mike

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_c...> 
wrote:
> So what exactly is the problem the shop is having?  Not able to 
mount 
> properly, as in too small/too big/upside-down?
> 
> Johnny
> 5518
> 
> 
> > The shop that's doing the work for me has encountered some 
> difficulty
> > getting the new assembly to mount properly.  It was my 
> understanding that
> > this assembly should be a drop-in replacement for an original 
> radiator and
> > fans, but clearly it's not this time.




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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2004 17:31:22 -0000
From: "Mike" <Michael.Fischer_at_dml_dittybase.com>
Subject: Running too Cold

Funny, usually we're all concerned about overheating .. but I'm a 
little worried about "underheating"

I was out for a 3 hour or so drive this past weekend, and kept a 
watch on the temperature gauge... and I noticed .. that unless I was 
sitting in traffic, the gauge seem to stay mighty low.

(And I have the Canadian Metric gauges)

If I was in traffic, it would slowly creep up the 220 mark, and then 
the fans would kick in and bring the temp down to the middle mark,  
but when I was going down the highway, the needle would barely lift 
from the bottom mark, maybe 1/8 of an inch or so.

Outside temp was about 60F.

If I just let her sit and idle in the garage, the gauge will rise 
and the fans will kick in about 1.2 an hour.

Opinions?
-Bad gauge?
-Bad thermostat?  (do they fail in the open or closed position?)
-Leak in the cooling system somewhere?


Thanks,
Mike
#17106





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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2004 12:41:41 -0400
From: "Wizard" <wizard_at_dml_tdgllc.com>
Subject: RE: Re: DELOREAN AUTO TRANS SWAP

Tody:

Thanks for the recommendations...I will surely be purchasing the rear
main seal and transmission seals (FROM YOU GUY) when I begin the
project.  Right now the car is sitting in my friends trailer until I
make room in my garage.  I expect it to be ready for "surgery" by next
weekend.  I also plan on going through the car to make sure I do not
need any other parts so I pay for S&H once.

Again, thanks for the advise.

Jason

-----Original Message-----
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com [mailto:tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com] 
Sent: Monday, September 20, 2004 6:00 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: DELOREAN AUTO TRANS SWAP


Jay - As far as I know, the engine itself is identical between the 5-
speed and the automatic.  You will have to remove the flywheel and 
other clutch components from the "new" engine, and replace them with 
the flex plate and torque converter from the automatic 
configuration.  The starter and other ancilliary parts should work 
just fine.  The subject line of your post is kind of misleading in 
terms of what you are actually asking about (BTW).  This would be a 
good time to take the torque converter and have it completely cleaned 
out and inspected.  Also, the engine rear main seal and transmission 
front seal can be easily changed at this time, just to be on the safe 
side.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248  "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Wizard" <wizard_at_dml_t...> wrote:
> I have an 81 DeLorean (automatic trans) and want to swap the ENGINE 
> only, not the transmission with a spare engine out of an 81 DeLorean 
> (standard trans).  Anyone done this before?  Any issues I should
know about.
> 
> Any input would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> JAY




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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2004 14:38:43 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Yet Another Oil Thread

In a message dated 9/21/04 7:29:42 AM Central Daylight Time, 
ttanaka504_at_dml_aol.com writes:


>     One example. I am using 0W20 in above 20C for 2 years.
> I did not any problem so far. the engine oil contains
> molybdenum. cost me $25 for 4 liters in Japan.
> The oil is Toyota genuine   oil for V8 engine. 

Toyota Genuine Motor Oil is nothing more than rebadged Exxon Superflow.  You 
can check the MSDS sheets - it says it is manufactured by Exxon and when you 
compare the two specs, the Exxon and the TGMO are EXACTLY the same, right down 
to very last detail.  I believe either GM Goodwrench or Motorcraft is actually 
just Havoline.  I'll have to check. 

As a side note, many new Mercedes Benz engines are recommending the use of 
0w40 full synthetic under all driving conditions.

Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2004 19:52:47 -0000
From: "billeg1983" <billeg1983_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Angle Drive (1983-VIN 16893)

I am a new member and need some advice.
Has anyone used the new / improved angle drive from Delorean.com ?
Part #106130 (AD) for $59.95 and Part #110528 (SpeedoCable bracket) 
for $19.95.  Found the "Angle Drive Removal for Dummies" on the site -
 any other suggestions for an original angle drive - do I need to 
purchase the special dust cover or should my original work ?




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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2004 19:16:13 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Yet Another Oil Thread

Another myth busted!!  Although somehow I knew that Toyota was not 
really in the oil-refinery business. 

Acutally my preferred oil (for cars other than the DMC) is BMW 5W30 
Synthetic - I get it at the BMW dealer and it's at least 50 cents a 
quart cheaper than Mobil 1 (with a club discount). It's re-packaged 
Castrol. I would never have believed that a car dealer is the 
cheapest place around to buy synthetic oil.

Dave S


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Soma576_at_dml_a... wrote:
> In a message dated 9/21/04 7:29:42 AM Central Daylight Time, 
> ttanaka504_at_dml_a... writes:
> 
> 
> >     One example. I am using 0W20 in above 20C for 2 years.
> > I did not any problem so far. the engine oil contains
> > molybdenum. cost me $25 for 4 liters in Japan.
> > The oil is Toyota genuine   oil for V8 engine. 
> 
> Toyota Genuine Motor Oil is nothing more than rebadged Exxon 
Superflow.  You 
> can check the MSDS sheets - it says it is manufactured by Exxon and 
when you 
> compare the two specs, the Exxon and the TGMO are EXACTLY the same, 
right down 
> to very last detail.  I believe either GM Goodwrench or Motorcraft 
is actually 
> just Havoline.  I'll have to check. 




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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2004 19:46:02 -0000
From: "Mike Walsh" <yahoo_at_dml_oneskydojo.com>
Subject: Re: Running too Cold

Mine does the same thing. Only once has it ever gone above 1/2 way, 
it ususally is just above 1/4. The fans only come on (except with the 
air on) just below the 1/2 way mark. It does not matter if it is 60F 
or 100F. I first thought it might be air trapped in the system, but 
after instaling 2 bleeders and flushing the system it is still the 
same. Maybe somthing with the Canadian or late 83 models?

Mike Walsh
#17084




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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2004 15:14:23 -0500
From: "James Espey" <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: Re: DMCH's exhaust .....yanked??

We've stopped selling the performance exhaust temporarily while we change
suppliers. The limited supplies left are being sold with the performance
engines until our new supplier comes online later this year. More details
about the new exhaust will be announced in the coming weeks.

James Espey

------------------------------------
DeLorean Motor Company
Vice President
james_at_dml_delorean.com
15023 Eddie Drive
Humble, Texas 77396 USA
tel: 800/872-3621
tel2:281/441-2537
fax: 281/441-2813
http://www.delorean.com
------------------------------------

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Message: 21
Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2004 20:03:48 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: Running too Cold

I would suspect NO thermostat.  When you first start the car when it is cold, you 
should be able to see evidence that the thermostat opens by watching the temp
gage.  The needle should rise to about 180 degrees, then drop as the thermostat
opens and the cooler coolant in the radiator gets pumped into the engine.  Then
the needle will rise until the fans kick on.  If the temp just keeps rising and it takes
a long time, the thermostat is stuck open or has been removed by a dreaded
previous owner.

--
Mike


-------------- Original message from "Mike" : -------------- 

> 
> Funny, usually we're all concerned about overheating .. but I'm a 
> little worried about "underheating" 
> 
> I was out for a 3 hour or so drive this past weekend, and kept a 
> watch on the temperature gauge... and I noticed .. that unless I was 
> sitting in traffic, the gauge seem to stay mighty low. 
> 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2004 16:31:59 -0400
From: "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Burned engine oil

Guess I'll ask a more basic question.  Are you sure the correct oil was put
in the engine the last time it was changed?  Transmission fluid comes in the
same type and shaped containers as engine oil.  Many people don't read the
labels they just assume and ...

Ed
10541


----- Original Message ----- 

> You've got to be an idiot to drain the manual transmission fluid
> thinking its the engine oil (sorry if there is anyone reading that has
> done this).



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Message: 23
Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2004 13:39:13 -0700 (PDT)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: serious door alignment issue

Hey all,


     I have a friend, who in the course of having part
of the car repaired had left a screw driver in the
front part of the passanger side door in the area
between the inner and outer seals.  When someone
attempted to close the door with the screwdriver in
it, it looks like it raised up the door alignment a
considerable bit at the front hinge.  

     Has anyone dealt with this sort of situation
before?

     I have created a small page where the pictures
are located.  Have a look and share your thoughts.

http://retroserver.no-ip.com/delorean/rominadoor.html


thanx

Jordan



		
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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2004 16:14:13 -0500
From: "Nelson, Allan" <abnelson_at_dml_waterousco.com>
Subject: RE: Yet Another Oil Thread

Just an FYI for anyone interested...Castrol Syntech is not technically
synthetic like Mobil 1.  It can legally be called synthetic after Castrol
won the lawsuit initiated by Mobil but its base stock is just highly refined
petroleum, not synthesized stock.  Mobil objected to Catrol using the term
"synthetic" in its marketing since Castrol was able to sell its product for
less (petroleum stock is cheaper than real synthetic) and market it to be
"equal" to Mobil 1 (which it isn't).  Castrol ultimately won the right to
call their product synthetic (but it isn't).  More fuel for the oil fire.

AL

-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Swingle [mailto:swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com]
Sent: Tuesday, September 21, 2004 2:16 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Yet Another Oil Thread


Another myth busted!!  Although somehow I knew that Toyota was not 
really in the oil-refinery business. 

Acutally my preferred oil (for cars other than the DMC) is BMW 5W30 
Synthetic - I get it at the BMW dealer and it's at least 50 cents a 
quart cheaper than Mobil 1 (with a club discount). It's re-packaged 
Castrol. I would never have believed that a car dealer is the 
cheapest place around to buy synthetic oil.

Dave S






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Message: 25
Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2004 21:30:03 -0000
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>
Subject: Re: Yet Another Oil Thread

>> A really nice compromise is Mobil 1 15W50 Synthetic

I have used Mobil 1 exclusively in my cars for the past several years. 
When I bought the D I went straight to the 15W50. At $5 a quart it's
not cheap but it makes me feel warm and fuzzy inside...

-Ryan

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> When in doubt, read the owner's manual. Paraphrased from the second 
> version manual, although I recall the specs to be similar in the 
> first one:
> 
>    Based on outdoor temperature when operating:
>    Always above 20C (64F) - 20W50
> 
>    Between -20C and 40C (2F and 102F) - 10W20, 10W30, 10W40, 20W40.
> 
>    Below -20C (-2F) 5W20, 5W30. NOTE: This Oil Should Not be used 
> when temperature is continuously above 0C (32F).
> 
> I'm always surprised how many people are using 5W30 in their car, 
> only because that's whats used in most modern cars. 
> 
> This heavy oil spec is not as unusual as you may think - Other Euro 
> cars of the era have similar specs. I work with older BMWs and their 
> recommendations are very close to this. 
> 
> Many of the above weights are no longer sold.  A really nice 
> compromise is Mobil 1 15W50 Synthetic - a bit pricey but after 
> recently taking apart a 170,000 mile BMW engine that ran this stuff 
> I'm a believer. Comes in 5-quart jugs at WalMart.
> 
> Dave S




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Message: 26
Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2004 23:25:30 +0200
From: Jan van de Wouw <delorean_at_dml_home.nl>
Subject: Grid-lines over Taillights

Hi,

I want to try something different with my taillights, but to
do so, I'd have to remove the gridlines from the lenses.

When I took a look at them, they seemed to be fused/melted
onto the casing, but quite some time ago I saw a DeLorean
completely missing the gridlines.
The owner hadn't even noticed himself!

Can't remember who it was, but I seem to remember it
was before I even owned a DeLorean myself. This coming
saturday that will be over 4 years ago!

Can anyone shed some light onto this?
It's not 100% nessecary to remove them to do what I intend,
but it would make things a whole lot easier to do...

Thanks,

JAN van de Wouw

Thinking Different...   Using a Mac...
Living the Dream...   Driving a DeLorean...
Shifting Expectations...   Driving a Nissan...

DMC-12 "Dagger" since Sep. 2000
100NX "Saphire" since Nov. 2002
-------------------------------





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