From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2244
Date: Thursday, September 23, 2004 6:12 PM

There are 26 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Delorean hard to keep running when engine is cold
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

2. RE: Delorean hard to keep running when engine is cold
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

3. Re: A new set of keys
From: Rod Dillman <rhdillman_at_dml_yahoo.com>

4. Re: DMC Maitenence Continued.....
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

5. Reproduction Side Stripes - BLOWOUT SALE
From: "Robert Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

6. Signal flashers
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

7. RE: DMC Maitenence Continued.....
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

8. Re: Re: Red Oil Herring (B27 vs B28)
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

9. OEM Side-Stripes
From: "Robert Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

10. OEM Side-Stripes
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

11. VIN 3879 For Sale
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

12. Re: Signal flashers
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

13. Re: Signal flashers
From: Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

14. Re: Factory Shifts/Key Code
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayfw_at_dml_charter.net>

15. Shop Manual and Parts Catalog Needed
From: "tenchi_alex" <tenchi_alex_at_dml_yahoo.com>

16. Re: Shop Manual and Parts Catalog Needed
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

17. Re: Factory Shifts/Key Code
From: "dmcorlando2003" <SundeQuick_at_dml_aol.com>

18. Re: A new set of keys
From: Owen Emry <owen_at_dml_aerodrome.us>

19. Re: Shop Manual and Parts Catalog Needed
From: "tenchi_alex" <tenchi_alex_at_dml_yahoo.com>

20. Re: Factory Shifts/Key Code
From: Phil Priestley <phil_at_dml_alessandros120.com>

21. Electronic Ignition Keys
From: Rod Dillman <rhdillman_at_dml_yahoo.com>

22. emptying fuel tank
From: "westleymills2003" <westleymills2003_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>

23. Re: Delorean hard to keep running when engine is cold
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

24. Re: emptying fuel tank
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

25. Re: Delorean hard to keep running when engine is cold
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

26. Re: Corrected URL's (B27/B28 Camshafts)
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2004 02:54:32 -0000
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Re: Delorean hard to keep running when engine is cold

Sounds like the mixture is out of adjustment.  You can adjust it using
a 3mm hex key and inserting it into the hole just below the fuel
distributor.

Matt
#1604
--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cambpd" <cambpd_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Hi, does anyone have a tech tip on what my son and I can do too fix
> the cold starting problem my Delorean has? 
> 
> When the engine is cold and we start it up it runs fast for about 2
> seconds, like it should when cold, and then it chokes and cuts off. I
> try to start it again and does about the same or worse. After 5 or 6
> trys and with playing with the gas pedal it will start and stay
> running (probably because it has warmed up enough.) 
> 
> Any advice will be much appreciated! 
> 
> Thanks, 
> Mike




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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2004 21:56:55 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Delorean hard to keep running when engine is cold

Mike, I would make sure that non of the linkage hanging up. Even though WD40
is a cleaner and light lubricant I would use it liberally around the
throttle body and spindle. Then I would make sure the lower screw on the
throttle body arm is not adjusted out to far. Then there several other
things that could be making this happen.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com



-----Original Message-----
From: cambpd [mailto:cambpd_at_dml_yahoo.com]
Sent: Wednesday, September 22, 2004 4:07 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Delorean hard to keep running when engine is cold


Hi, does anyone have a tech tip on what my son and I can do too fix
the cold starting problem my Delorean has?

When the engine is cold and we start it up it runs fast for about 2
seconds, like it should when cold, and then it chokes and cuts off. 



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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2004 18:23:46 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rod Dillman <rhdillman_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: A new set of keys

If your car has a single key that fits both the doors and the ignition, a Volvo X29 key blank works. My locksmith shop had the blanks made by Cole. It says" fits Volvo " on the blank and also has the number VO73 on one side.

"trekkerlb_at_dml_netzero.com" <TrekkerLB_at_dml_Netzero.Com> wrote:

I found a local (Nutley NJ) locksmith that was able to cut a door key for me. I've been trying to get the ignition key made up, but have not had luck yet - I lost my only one and have to pull the cylinder!

He charged me $5 for the door key.




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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2004 05:44:58 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: DMC Maitenence Continued.....

Matt - I am personally very skeptical that clogged fuel injectors 
would result in the sudden failure to start that you described.  The 
symptom for the injectors would be a gradual worsening of engine 
performance.  The last time that this happened to with a local car, 
it was the fuel pump wiring terminals with excessicve corrosion.  
The car ran great, right up until the owner filled it up with gas, 
and it wouldn't start after the fillup.  It went home on a flatbed.  
I replaced the fuel pump for him, and that was all that was wrong.  
The wires had basically rotted away under the fuel pump boot.  
Another car suddenly quit running, and we replaced the RPM relay to 
solve the problem.  For your symptoms, I'd look at the fuel pump 
connections, the pump itself, the RPM relay, and the fuel pump 
relay.  Don't forget the obvious choices like a blown fuse, etc.  
Sometimes it is the very basic things that get us, and 
also "professional shops".

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "dmc4matt" <dmc4matt_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Hey Guys,
> 
> If you remember, I posted awhile ago about the subject of DMC 
> Maintenance. 
> 
> Here was my original Post: ...

> The Volvo place just called me today. They think it is that only 
one of the six fuel injectors is spraying like it should, and the 
other five are dripping and not functioning right. They were getting 
the parts in this afternoon, and hope to install them tomorrow 
morning. Do you guys think this should solve my problem, or have 
they not come across anything likely to cause it?
> 
> Thanks Everyone!
> Matt
> VIN 002205




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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2004 07:58:31 -0000
From: "Robert Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Reproduction Side Stripes - BLOWOUT SALE

For those of you sitting on the fence about getting a set of my
reproduction side stripes, now is the time to act without delay.

...long story short, the people who I got to make these for me
made me a deal and I traded with them for a few more sets of the 
stripes using up the remaining amount of the rare textured material
so I might not be making any more of these in the future.

I am going to liquidate the few extra sets of these that I have
for the lowest price I can allow.

If you want a set for only $150.00 then you can grab them
from eBay at:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2490265717

You can view pictures of them on my car at
http://www.dfwdmc.com

When they are GONE, they are GONE.
I don't think I will be making any more of them.
Some of you who have already gotten your Pigeon Forge DVD's will
have a sample peice of the material to examine.
They are very thick and high quality and stick like grim death!

- Videobob
VIN#5278




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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2004 04:51:47 -0000
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Signal flashers

The flashers are installed on a steel plate, only mine is (along with
the logic box) hanging down by my clutch pedal. Where does this plate
clip back to? I see it has clips on the sides, must have gotten loose
and fallen.
Thanks guys -Dani B. #5003




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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2004 22:06:17 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: DMC Maitenence Continued.....

Matt, The fuel pump relay turns on the fuel pump with a pulse from the pulse
coil. So, if the fuel pump is turning on the RPM relay is good smell or not.
You can have a check valve or injector bleeding down releasing all the
pressure. You could have a connection heating up and breaking connection on
the inertia switch or #7 fuel.
My other question is, if you swapped the WUR wire with the cold start wire
would it start. If so That would help.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com



-----Original Message-----
From: dmc4matt [mailto:dmc4matt_at_dml_yahoo.com]
Sent: Wednesday, September 22, 2004 8:45 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] DMC Maitenence Continued.....


Hey Guys,

If you remember, I posted awhile ago about the subject of DMC
Maitenence.

Here was my original Post:

J====They took the car
in, and started to check it out. His first thought was that it was
the fuel pump, but as he looked more into it, he thinks it may be the
fuel relay, because he says it smells burned. So that is where I am
with it.

My question: Has anyone had a similar problem like myself?


The Volvo place just called me today. They think it is that only one
of the six fuel injectors is spraying like it should, and the other
five are dripping and not functioning right. They were getting the
parts in this afternoon, and hope to install them tomorrow morning.
Do you guys think this should solve my problem, or have they not come
across anything likely to cause it?

Thanks Everyone!
Matt
VIN 002205



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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2004 10:37:57 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: Red Oil Herring (B27 vs B28)



content22207 wrote:

>What is your source of 1970's camshaft changes? Volvo factory
>literature is totally mum. 
>
All the Volvo specialists (over here) I've ever spoken to about it. And 
Renault went through the same thing too I believe.

Martin





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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2004 08:02:41 -0000
From: "Robert Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: OEM Side-Stripes

I forgot to mention,
I also have an original set of OEM Side-Stripes that are new and unused
and include the original instructions and transfer tape.
These look as good as new, and might be the best ones you will ever
find. If you are looking to have a complete restored car to pass
a concourse competition then you need these.
These are super rare and not available anywhere for anyprice.

I will take $350.00 for them.
(Just to let you know, I paid $500 for them and used them
as the reference for my reproductions)

Contact me directly if you are interested,
otherwise they go on eBay.
- VB




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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2004 05:34:56 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: OEM Side-Stripes

I sold a set on Ebay 2 yrs ago for $120!

--- Robert Moseley <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com> wrote:

<SNIP>
> I will take $350.00 for them.
> (Just to let you know, I paid $500 for them and used
> them
> as the reference for my reproductions)
> 
> Contact me directly if you are interested,
> otherwise they go on eBay.
> - VB



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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2004 06:36:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: VIN 3879 For Sale

FYI for those looking,
VIN 3879 is for sale in the Greater Toledo, OH area (Holland/Sylvania, OH?). 
For pictures see "3879 for sale" in the photos section.

Here is what I found out from the owner:
- Asking $9,000.
- He is the 2nd owner. He bought it fromt the 1st owner who only drove it for the
first 2 summers then stored it. Before driving it the 1st two summers the 1st
owner disconnected the speedometer at 725 miles. The 2nd owners says there is
less than 5k miles on the car.
- New fuel pump, accumulator, door struts, hood struts
- He says the car runs but only if he drips (oil? gas?) somewhere. Which tells
him the fuel injectors are bad. He says he will put new injectors (currently on
their way from Napa) on the car and it will run.
- I asked if the car was stored with or without gas, he didn't know but did say
that he cleaned out the tank and re-did the entire fuel system.
- New tires

Here is what I saw on my brief visit:
- 80 amp alt.
- frame: from what I could see thru the tall grass it looked to be good. All
though it's sitting in tall grass... not good.
- Passenger door did not close very well & doesn't look like it fits properly
when closed.
- Drivers door was ripped apart & did not open, window stuck open a little.
- Interior over all is in good shape.
- Fender mount antenna was broken off.
- Facia a bit warped with ill fitting headlights
- Drivers Door & LF Fender were damaged & had under gone some repair. More repair
is needed.

Owners contact info:
Jr. Brooks
419-866-1480

This car may show up with more info on the DML For Sale page in the future. The
owner was un-aware of this "free" service ;-)

Disclaimer: I do not know & have no affiliation with this owner, his family,
associates or 2nd cousin's mother's uncle once removed. I just saw it sitting
along the road & want it to find a good home. 

Shannon Y
16506



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Message: 12
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2004 13:38:36 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Signal flashers

That plate goes back above the steering column and is vertical between
the steering column and the dash. You can find a picture of it in the
Parts Manual, I don't have the page # with me. It is rather difficult
to get placed correctly so that is why it fell. The P.O. probably just
had it stuffed up in there after removing it for who knows why. They
don't fall out on their own unless removed and improperly reinstalled.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> The flashers are installed on a steel plate, only mine is (along with
> the logic box) hanging down by my clutch pedal. Where does this plate
> clip back to? I see it has clips on the sides, must have gotten loose
> and fallen.
> Thanks guys -Dani B. #5003




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Message: 13
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2004 07:13:54 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Signal flashers

Dani,
 
I went through the same thing last winter.  That plate is a real bastard to attach, if you don't know where to put it.  I just took a look at one of the "exploded" pics in the parts manual to understand the orientation and placement of the plate, and had it snapped back in in a couple minutes.  If you can use another car as a reference, even better!
 
Good Luck.
 
Jake Kamphoefner
1063
 


Dani B <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net> wrote: The flashers are installed on a steel plate, only mine is (along with
the logic box) hanging down by my clutch pedal. Where does this plate
clip back to? I see it has clips on the sides, must have gotten loose
and fallen.
Thanks guys -Dani B. #5003






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 14
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2004 06:43:33 -0700
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayfw_at_dml_charter.net>
Subject: Re: Factory Shifts/Key Code

I agree, re key codes.  I have NEVER locked my D, ALWAYS leave the key in
the ignition, leave it at Super Market parking lots and malls while I shop,
sometimes even leave a door open due to extreme ambient heat.  NOW, if
someone wants to take advantage of the situation that I am advertising and
drive from say New York City or Los Angeles etc to Walla Walla, Washington
State and find my car and drive it off, they are welcome to try.   I DO take
other precautions however...I have remote start and about 15 fail safes
along with it. Nothing you could do to start the car.  I is ALWAYS in my
garage when not being driven...it is NEVER left outside the house on the
street.  The garage door would need to be forced open somehow and alarm
systems would then all go off.  People are very used to false alarms with
horns honking intermittently, but a loud SIREN is a different story.     I
am sure all of this is mostly due to the fact that we live in a small town
(30K pop) and not into the terrific crime rates of the big cities.   I have
many standing NEAR the car when I come back to it who are mainly interested
in the novelty of it all rather than interested in try to steal it.  I would
have no hesitation at all in telling someone my "secret code" to make a key
for it or how to break into it.   Of course, also, it is fully insured!   So
have at it.

As to Electronically coded keys.....my pet peeve.   We bought a new Chrysler
Sebring from my brothers estate recently and I had a key made without asking
the cost.....I went thru the ceiling and have not come down yet.  I thought
they were going to cut me a spare key for six dollars, but it was $90.00 and
I was told that some cost like $120 or so.....most ridiculous thing I ever
heard of.  I blame the dealer for not telling customers this fact before
they start.  It would eliminate a lot of hard feelings and a deterent for
future sales or work at that dealership.
        Murray
        Vin: 05962
        Lic: DMC-XII




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Message: 15
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2004 14:36:12 -0000
From: "tenchi_alex" <tenchi_alex_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Shop Manual and Parts Catalog Needed

Hiya all! (^_^)/

Hope everyone is doing great!

Anyways, I'm wondering if you guys know where I could get a copy of 
the "shop manual" and "parts catalog".   I'm not sure if this has 
been addressed here already, so sorry if it has.   I would have 
searched the group to see if this were so, but the Yahoo Groups 
search engine is NOT GOOD, and goodness there are a LOT of messages 
here! *sigh*...and hehe, yes I've have Googled the question! ^^

Anyways, if anyone can held that would be GREAT! (^-^)

Talk to you guys later, and take great care! (^-^)/```
==Tenchi




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Message: 16
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2004 14:46:42 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Shop Manual and Parts Catalog Needed

All the usual vendors have them, in fact most of them even have the 
parts manual on-line as a part ordering device. Owning the paper 
copies of these is the best $75 you'll spend on the car. Call any 
vendor. I also believe that DMC Houston is selling the parts book on 
CD-ROM almost for free. But it's pretty hard to use with greasy 
fingers in the garage. 

alphabetically:
www.delorean.com
www.delorean-parts.com
www.deloreanmotorcenter.com
www.pjgrady.com
www.specialtauto.com

see also:
http://www.dmcnews.com/links.html

The parts manual is also downloadable on www.dmcnews.com in a couple 
of formats, where you'll also find an archive search (that searches 
stuff more than a couple of years old). But it's certainly cheaper to 
buy it hard copy unless you get a great deal on paper and printer 
cartridges.

Dave Swingle

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "tenchi_alex" <tenchi_alex_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:
> Hiya all! (^_^)/
> 
> Hope everyone is doing great!
> 
> Anyways, I'm wondering if you guys know where I could get a copy of 
> the "shop manual" and "parts catalog".   




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Message: 17
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2004 16:08:55 -0000
From: "dmcorlando2003" <SundeQuick_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Factory Shifts/Key Code

This may come as a shock to some...but hopefully not..LOL  Any good 
locksmith can make a key for your car in a matter of minutes.  I once 
lost my keys to a Honda I owned (only set.)  My uncle who is a 
locksmith came out and hade a key made in litterally 10 minutes.  I 
laughed and said it was just that my car was easy.  So to prove his 
point that he could do it to another car he promptly made a key to 
the car parked next to me and I watched in amazement as the door 
locked popped up and the door opened.  

He said the proceedure isn't that hard at all.  When you put a balnk 
into the lock you turn it side to sid eand the internals of the lock 
will leave scratches on the black.  The blank is then filed and again 
it is tried. Eventually after a few tries of turning and filing the 
key will turn all the way and the door open.  

The funny thing is most alarms will honk your horns when they go 
off.  Simply reach under the front and unplug them...problem solved.

Also, if somebody really wants your car they will get it.  Do like 
the Repo guys do.  Simply backup to it and tow it away.  No alarm no 
matter how sophisticated will prevent that...

Michael
VIN #02944

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, kevin creason <kcreason77_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> You are all being waaay to sensitive about keycodes.
> There is a good chance you can take any key for any
> car, walk up to a similar model and it will work on
> the stranger's car. That's why they've started
> embedding chips on keys.
> As a formerly-practicing locksmith, I have a key
> cutter and codes for the Delo's. It's a lot more
> trouble than it is worth to find someone's key code,
> cut a key, find their car and steal it. It would be
> far easier to break in and outright steal it. Or
> trick/bribe a tow truck driver into taking someone's
> car....
> Just chill.
> 
> 
> --- Warren Turkal <wt_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> > Please don't publically post a suspected keycode. It
> > just seems like you are 
> > asking for trouble if you do.
> >




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Message: 18
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2004 08:48:31 -0700
From: Owen Emry <owen_at_dml_aerodrome.us>
Subject: Re: A new set of keys

kevin creason wrote:

> Pull the headliners in your door, and look for a
> WR5xxx number-- that is your door code. A K7xxx
> through K9xxx will be your ignition. It usually ends
> with an "X" too but that letter doesn't matter.
> 
> Anyway, get that code and go to any locksmith.

Okay, so now I've got my key code -- you're telling me that any locksmith anywhere can make me a new DeLorean key with nothing more than that number and the right blank?

(For anyone who cares, my current keys are Ilco copies, and the blanks say "X170 NE48" on them.)

-Owen




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Message: 19
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2004 15:31:37 -0000
From: "tenchi_alex" <tenchi_alex_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Shop Manual and Parts Catalog Needed

Hey there Dave! (^-^)/

First off, THANK YOU for the responce! ^^   
Well, I found exactly what I was looking for thanks to you! ^_^   I 
found it here:

http://www.pjgrady.com/lgspec.asp?id=12

It's a little bit more pricey ($90) than your mentioned "$75" but 
like you said,  this is VERY important info! ^^

Well, that's it for now...thanks again Dave! ^_^
==Tenchi


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> All the usual vendors have them, in fact most of them even have the 
> parts manual on-line as a part ordering device. Owning the paper 
> copies of these is the best $75 you'll spend on the car. Call any 
> vendor. 



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Message: 20
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2004 09:28:29 -0700
From: Phil Priestley <phil_at_dml_alessandros120.com>
Subject: Re: Factory Shifts/Key Code

I just had to get a spare key for my 98 Mercedes-Benz E320. They use an 
totally electronic key to start the car with a metal side cut emergency 
blade that will open the doors and trunk but do nothing else. To get a 
spare you have to give them your Vin and show proof of ownership, then 
they order the key from MB. One week and $135 later I had a spare.
That sure made the $35 for an OEM door key and ignition blank from DMCH 
look like a steal.
Phil Priestley
Alessandros 120
http://alessandros120.com/
(503)370-9951

On Sep 23, 2004, at 6:43 AM, Murray Fisher wrote:

>  I thought
> they were going to cut me a spare key for six dollars, but it was 
> $90.00 and
> I was told that some cost like $120 or so.....most ridiculous thing I 
> ever
> heard of.




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Message: 21
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2004 10:58:48 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rod Dillman <rhdillman_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Electronic Ignition Keys

I recently had a new key made for my Cadillac Eldorado that my son was taking to college. The Cadillac dealer charged me $40 dollars for the electronic ignition key. I assumed that only a Cadillac dealer could make a replacement key for it. A couple of weeks later I was in a local locksmith shop and inquired about replacement electronic ignition keys. The locksmith told me that he had a scanner that would read the chip in the Cadillac key and that he could make me a replacement key for $17. He also said that new car dealers usually imply that they are the only source for the electronic keys. The lesson I learned is to first check with a trusted local locksmith to see if they can make a key and if so at what price. 

		
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Message: 22
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2004 19:17:49 -0000
From: "westleymills2003" <westleymills2003_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: emptying fuel tank

hi whats the best way to goe about emptying my fuel tank as im puting 
the car up for the winter,also i thought id clean the tank while i 
was at it as its probably never been done.   many thanks in advance 
westley




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Message: 23
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2004 18:45:23 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: Delorean hard to keep running when engine is cold

Mike - We have a local car that is behaving in a similar fashion, and 
we have identified the problem as being a clogged and corroded CPR 
(control pressure regulator).  The most consistent way of starting 
this car is with a shot of ether.  You may want to consider this 
component as a possible cause of your problem.  The local owner 
intends to rebuild his CPR to correct the issue.  Replacement may be 
more convenient for the average owner.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cambpd" <cambpd_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Hi, does anyone have a tech tip on what my son and I can do too fix
> the cold starting problem my Delorean has? 
> 
> When the engine is cold and we start it up it runs fast for about 2
> seconds, like it should when cold, and then it chokes and cuts off. 
I
> try to start it again and does about the same or worse. After 5 or 6
> trys and with playing with the gas pedal it will start and stay
> running (probably because it has warmed up enough.) 
> 
> Any advice will be much appreciated! 
> 
> Thanks, 
> Mike




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Message: 24
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2004 20:27:04 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: emptying fuel tank

1 Extinguish cigarette.

2 I've never had much luck siphoning thru the filler. A quick way to 
get the tank "almost" empty is to unhook the fuel feed line from the 
fuel distributor, thread it out the bottom of the engine compartment 
into a can, jump the RPM relay and run the fuel pump until nothing 
comes out. Don't run it very long once you hit bottom, these pumps do 
NOT like running dry. Alternative - drive the car around until the 
low fuel light comes on. This usually means that you'll run out of 
gas in about 50 yards so don't be too far from home. 

3 Remove spare tire and cover in the recess.

4 Remove fuel pump, disconnect hose at bottom of pump. Let it fall 
into the tank. This is where you find out that the rubber boot 
holding the fuel pump has disintegrated at the bottom. Call up your 
favorite vendor and order a new one. Order a new cover while your at 
it, the old one will shrink and won't fit anymore. If the fuel lines 
look loose or falling apart order a couple of those too. 

5 Siphon out the rest of the gas. Clean tank. If it has lots of gooky 
black stuff in the bottom from the boot that dissolved (see step 3) 
use acetone. Wear chemical-proof gloves if you value your health.

6 Retrieve the hose you dropped in step 4, hook it back up to the 
bottom of the fuel pump. 

Re-install pump and cover.

Dave S

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "westleymills2003" 
<westleymills2003_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> hi whats the best way to goe about emptying my fuel tank as im 
puting 
> the car up for the winter,also i thought id clean the tank while i 
> was at it as its probably never been done.   many thanks in advance 
> westley




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Message: 25
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2004 21:29:37 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Delorean hard to keep running when engine is cold

I would agree that the CPR is the root of the problem. Tampering with
the fuel mixture is only a last resort item.

However, I am rather curious about something in your post, Toby. You
said that a local owner to you is planning on rebuilding the CPR.
Where is he able to find replacement parts for the gaskets/diaphram,
wiring, etc? I wound up buying a rebuilt CPR, because I couldn't find
rebuild kits, or components anywhere. Volvo dealership, BOSCH
supplier, no one had them.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, tobyp_at_dml_k... wrote:
> Mike - We have a local car that is behaving in a similar fashion, and 
> we have identified the problem as being a clogged and corroded CPR 
> (control pressure regulator).  The most consistent way of starting 
> this car is with a shot of ether.  You may want to consider this 
> component as a possible cause of your problem.  The local owner 
> intends to rebuild his CPR to correct the issue.  Replacement may be 
> more convenient for the average owner.
> 
> Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
> DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
> www.delorean-parts.com




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Message: 26
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2004 21:52:56 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Corrected URL's (B27/B28 Camshafts)

End of sentence periods threw off the URL's. This is what they should
have looked like:
http://www.swedishbricks.com/faq/engpvr6.html
http://www.alldata.com/TSB/64/79643149.html

While doing research at the Douvrin PRV 6 Engine Association I noticed
DeLorean is "Car of the Month":
http://members.fortunecity.com/douvrinprv/
This site hadn't changed in so long I thought it was dead, but
recently underwent major surgery so someone's taking car of it now.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> No one's disputing massive changes in the ~1987 redesign. My complaint
> is reports in DeLo community of massive changes circa 1980. Is the
> only place I've ever seen such. 
> 
> What is your source of 1970's camshaft changes? Volvo factory
> literature is totally mum. Volvo newsgroups are mum (example:
> http://www.swedishbricks.com/faq/engpvr6.html. Business about "face
> only" hardening is silly -- all production camshafts of that era,
> including American domestics, are made in layers. Only the lifter face
> is steel. Inner metal is gold in color (brass?)). My version of Darren
> Bowker (German PRV mechanic in Columbia SC) claims B27 and B28 are
> internally identical except for certain component *SIZES* (material
> composition was not only unchanged, but used simultaneously between
> Renault 2.7 and Volvo 2.8). The only Volvo Service Bulletin Re:
> camshaft issues is the late 1984 change in oil spec
> (http://www.alldata.com/TSB/64/79643149.html. My 1985 B28F manual has
> what I believe is this bulletin as a supplement -- I'll get it scanned
> and upload to #5939's photo album).
> 
> Bill Robertson
> #5939
> 





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