From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2250
Date: Tuesday, September 28, 2004 1:29 PM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: warning to non-mechanics (gas tank)
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

2. RE: Gas Mileage
From: "D F" <funkstuf_at_dml_hotmail.com>

3. Re: Gas Mileage
From: "sweitzel_2000" <sweitzel_at_dml_lffltd.com>

4. Re: Blower Speeds 1 & 2 out
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

5. Re: Blower Speeds 1 & 2 out
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

6. Re: Steering Column Bushing shortcut
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

7. Re: warning to non-mechanics (gas tank)
From: "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

8. Re: Brake light trouble 3
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

9. Re: Gas Mileage
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

10. Re: Manual Shifting questions - Now Idle issues
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

11. carfax vs. autocheck?
From: kevin creason <kcreason77_at_dml_yahoo.com>

12. Re: Open Ended Transmission Question
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

13. Re: Brake light trouble 3
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

14. Re: warning to non-mechanics (gas tank)
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

15. Defrost troubles
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

16. Trailing arm bolt question
From: "sweitzel_2000" <sweitzel_at_dml_lffltd.com>

17. Re: Re: Manual Shifting questions - Now Idle issues
From: Chris Shepherd <chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com>

18. Re: Steering Column Bushing shortcut
From: DANIEL SHANE <daniel.shane_at_dml_btinternet.com>

19. Re: warning to non-mechanics (gas tank)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>

20. Roadworks Auto Carpet Kit
From: "austinbrumley" <austinbrumley_at_dml_delorean.com>

21. VIN 1913 Needs some help ...
From: "Adam Lee" <delorean852003_at_dml_yahoo.com>

22. Lock Module Wireing
From: "Robert Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

23. Re: warning to non-mechanics (gas tank)
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>

24. Re: warning to non-mechanics (gas tank)
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>

25. Re: Re: Gas Mileage
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayfw_at_dml_charter.net>





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2004 02:29:08 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: warning to non-mechanics (gas tank)

Marvin - Thanks for sharing ... that took some guts.  We have some 
new and used tanks in stock, so we can set you up.  The old one will 
come out - you just need to coax it a little more.  Of course, you 
must make sure that everything is disconnected from the tank.  
You'll need to shove it as far forward as possible in order to avoid 
jamming it into the tapered "VEE" of the frame.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Marvin" <marv_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> 
> Anyone have a good, cheap gas tank with the foam attached?
> 
> Anyone have a suggestion how the new one will fit in, when the old 
one won't come completely out?
> 





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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2004 02:50:54 +0000
From: "D F" <funkstuf_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Gas Mileage

Interesting that I just tested this last weekend with a 700 mile trip.
It seems if I drive with the air conditioner off on level averaging about 
70MPH the car gets about 28 or better mpg.. In the hot summer with the air 
conditioner on it seems closer to 24.  I've not tested it in town but I've 
noticed the mileage is somewhat lower in town just by how much gas I put in 
it.  To me that seems like very good gas mileage.
Happy driving.
Dale Funk
4984



>From: Todd Nelson <tan5732_at_dml_rit.edu>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: DMC News <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
>Subject: [DML] Gas Mileage
>Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2004 23:59:26 -0400
>
>Hey,
>
>Has anyone ever looked into improving the gas mileage on their DeLorean?  
>Or is that not a concern?
>



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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2004 01:21:57 -0000
From: "sweitzel_2000" <sweitzel_at_dml_lffltd.com>
Subject: Re: Gas Mileage

> in a 20 year old car, your doing excelent.  Of course, expect about 
a 
> 3-6 mpg drop in milege for the automatic cars...
> 
> Tom Porter
> Dreaming of a DMC

I'm in an automatic and drive with the AC on practically all the 
time. I get between 18 and 20mpg in town and about 23 highway.




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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2004 02:23:39 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: Blower Speeds 1 & 2 out

Greg - You probably need to look at the resistor for the blower fan 
motor.  The part number is 101275, and it is located on the bottom 
of the fan housing.  This is how you get varied speeds on the fan.  
Each speed is powered through a different resistor coil.  There have 
been many reports of one or more of the coils breaking, which causes 
the power loss to the fan motor for that speed.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> When I switch my blower fan speed to 1 or 2, I get no air flow...  
3 and 4 work properly.  Searching the archive, I found a lot of the
> opposite, which went back to the separate relays for 3 and 4.  I 
also don't see relays listed for fan speeds 1 & 2....  are they 
controlled by the circuit braker?  Anyone had this before?
> 
> Thanks,
> --Greg




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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2004 02:39:01 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Blower Speeds 1 & 2 out

Check Fuse 10 - it also controls the AC clutch and door lock light 
(go figure). This fuse is also known to "burn out" the OEM fuse 
holder. This fuse causes other symptoms when it is about to burn 
out - blowing the fuse is usually the last thing to happen. So, if 
the fuse holder is still in-tact then you should check for a short 
in the circut if a new fuse blows again. Be sure to put the new fuse 
in and out several times to "clean" the contacts well and assure a 
good connection.

Harold McElraft - 3354

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> When I switch my blower fan speed to 1 or 2, I get no air flow...  
3
> and 4 work properly.  Searching the archive, I found a lot of the
> opposite, which went back to the separate relays for 3 and 4.  I 
also
> don't see relays listed for fan speeds 1 & 2....  are they 
controlled
> by the circuit braker?  Anyone had this before?
> 
> Thanks,
> --Greg




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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2004 02:59:04 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Steering Column Bushing shortcut

See message 42580. Mine is still in and working fine.

Harold McElraft - 3354

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "wayofcain" <wayofcain_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Hello,
> 
> Saturday vin2835 lost the steering column bushing. It seems that 
> somewhere I read of a shortcut to getting a new one in there that 
> bypassed the removal of the column. I believe it involved cutting 
the 
> bushing and using some good old epoxy.
> 
> I have searched and searched with no luck finding the message. 
Anyone 



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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2004 02:46:25 -0000
From: "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: warning to non-mechanics (gas tank)

O My gosh!!
Just glad to hear that you are alright,we ALL have done our share of 
stupid things.Mine was getting a very bad cut on my arm on the SS 
while changing a window motor.(never even felt it,just saw red juice 
everywhere)
Just be glad that was NOT a metal gas tank,as the sparks would have--
you don't want to know.
That is one reason that a lot of car makers have switched to plastic 
tanks,the Delorean was ahead of its time,in that factor,as I do NOT 
know of any other car maker at that time that was using plastic 
tanks,even Lotus was not using plastic tanks in their Lotus Esprits.
The car can be fixed,and a big lesson was learned.(the hard way)
The only suggestion I could make is, if someone must drive without 
the skid plate,fabricate three thick gage brackets to run across the 
bottom of the tank area and bolt those into place.(as the nuts are 
welded onto the frame,then you can still see if anything is leaking 
without worry of tank droppage,just remember those would be for 
temporary use only,and for inspection use,put the skid plate back on 
after the work is complete.
CBL


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Marvin" <marv_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> In disclosing one's stupidity, it is hoped that other non-mechanics 
working on their DeLoreans, do not follow my scenario. 
> 
> When replacing the lower 2 coolant lines located behind the skid 
plate, the plate must be removed. After replacing the 2 hoses, the 
plate must be immediately reinstalled. If you don't, and decide to 
drive your car to make sure the hoses do not leak (as I did) you will 
end up having one big headache. The back of the gas tank will slide 
downwards, out of the car, gas will pour out of the hole caused by 
the tank rubbing against the roadway, the fire dept. will be called 
to lay down gas absorbent material, the city sweeper / washer will be 
called in to flush away the line of gas trailing from 2 miles away, 
and basically you will feel like the idiot you are. Don't even think 
about the 10 gallons of gas you just put into the tank, which is now 
bone dry.
> 



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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2004 03:12:58 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Brake light trouble 3

Try Radio Shack. It probably isn't 12 amps. Look again. The numbers
are real small. It is probably more like 15 amps.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "secret_jedi_guy"
<secret_jedi_guy_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Okay I have diagnosed the problem and I need a new circuit board and 
> a new fuse.  The problem is that I can't find the right fuse at any 
> automotive or hardware store. It is the glass 12 amp fuse that is 
> held by the pedals in the plastic/vynl case.  Where can I find a 
> replacement fuse?  If it is on the DMC Houston site tell me where to 
> find it cuz I can't.  Thanks for the help.
> 
> VIN: 01223




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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2004 03:13:30 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Gas Mileage

RPM's are the biggest MPG killers (assuming rest of the engine is
tight and in tune). 1981 highway measurements were made at 55 MPH
national speed limit: near 2,000 RPM for a 5 speed. Today's speed
limits (70 MPH posted in North Carolina) increase engine rotation
close to 3,000 -- 25-33% MPG reduction right there.

Owners of manually equipped cars may also over rev them in town (let's
be honest -- it's more fun). Progressive shift points are in the mid
2,000 RPM's. Some of us push that to 4,000 or so, again reducing MPG.

Don't forget how heavy a DeLo is. By comparison, a 1981 Civic weighed
almost half as much (1,800 lbs I think?).

And the fat back tires are going to put up more resistance on the
pavement than something 200mm or less in width. Low inflation spec
exacerbates this. 

My PRV is burning an unmatched carburetor. Mileage around town is in
the mid teens, rising to the low 20's on the highway. Caravan gas
stops put me approximately 1 gallon behind fuel injected units (I buy
~12 gallons to their ~11). 

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Todd Nelson <tan5732_at_dml_r...> wrote:
> Hey,
> 
> Has anyone ever looked into improving the gas mileage on their
DeLorean?  Or is that not a concern?
> 
> Thanks,
> Todd
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2004 03:20:58 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: Manual Shifting questions - Now Idle issues

Mike - It sounds to me like a stuck idle speed motor.  They can get 
gummed up inside, and fail to operate correctly.  If you unplug it, 
or fiddle with the connection which can disturb the power to the 
motor, and the idle drops to 900 rpm, then it tells me the motor is 
stuck open allowing too much air in when powered up.

In regards to the broken allen wrench, you might be able to 
carefully depress the mass air flow sensor plate enough to get to 
the adjusment screw in order to extract it.  I would definitely get 
the tool end out of there so that it can't find it's way into the 
engine (that would be bad).  The CO2 screw must be totally 
corroded.  You may have to disassemble enough to get it out and 
clean everything up.  A good adjustment will then be required.  
Sometimes the short cut is the longest way around.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Mike Polzin" <MPolzin_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> I am still having problems with a high idle. I tested the 
frequency valve and it is good. The car was idling warm around 2000 
RPM's, and I started to mess with the plug that goes to the idle 
speed motor and the RPM's suddenly dropped down to a steady 900 
RPM's... I thought great, the connections are dirty, easy fix! So I 
cleaned up the connections, plugged it back in and I was back at 
2000 RPM's, and no amount of playing with the plug would change
> anything. After taking the car out for a spin, it was then idling 
at 3000 RPMs. I am pretty sure the mixture is off because the 
exhaust smells bad, and it is sucking gas at an unreal rate. I tried 
adjusting the mixture screw because I am sure it had already been 
tampered with but couldn't get the mixture screw to budge... I 
snapped my hex key trying. Now I need to figure out how to get the 
head of the hex key out of there.





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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2004 20:23:53 -0700 (PDT)
From: kevin creason <kcreason77_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: carfax vs. autocheck?

Hey-
I just bought a 60-day auto-check account. I'm curious
to compare it to carfax. If anyone has a carfax and is
looking at vins, email me and we can do a criss-cross
and compare.
I'll let the group know if one is better than the
other.
-Kevin
#4687


		
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail Address AutoComplete - You start. We finish.
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail 



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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2004 03:48:07 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Open Ended Transmission Question

Could it be because you have to throw shift gate out for 2nd but not
for 4th? Might encounter same problem for 6th if transmission was so
equipped.

Physics of shoving the linkage versus pulling it may account for
problems at the bottom of shift pattern rather than top.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> The other major cause is the front/back pivot bolt bending or coming 
> loose, or having been fudged in the past. For some reason this always 
> affects second! We've also had 1-2 synchro die for this reason.
> 
> Open ended question: Why is it only second that's affected in the 
> majority of cases?
> 
> Martin
> 





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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2004 04:03:45 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: Brake light trouble 3

The only two inline fuses that I am aware of are to the radio and 
the clock.  The fuse for the brake lights is number 18 in the normal 
fuse box.  So ... I'm not sure what other fuse you might have, but 
it's probably not stock.  We have NOS circuit boards in stock.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "secret_jedi_guy" 
<secret_jedi_guy_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Okay I have diagnosed the problem and I need a new circuit board 
and a new fuse.  The problem is that I can't find the right fuse at 
any automotive or hardware store. It is the glass 12 amp fuse that 
is held by the pedals in the plastic/vynl case.  Where can I find a 
> replacement fuse?  If it is on the DMC Houston site tell me where 
to find it cuz I can't.  Thanks for the help.
> 
> VIN: 01223




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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2004 03:22:58 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: warning to non-mechanics (gas tank)

Look on the bright side, You didn't have the trail of fire like in the
movie! To get the old tank (what's left of it) out you will have to
remove the coolant pipes again. You disconnect the fuel pump, sender
unit, fill and vent hoses. Now use a crowbar and force the rear of the
tank downward. It should then move rearward and out. To reinstall use
some grease on the foam pads to make it slip in. Buy a coolant
pressure tester to check out the coolant system for leaks. BTW 10
gallons of gas weighs a lot. If I recall it is around 6.5 lbs/gal so
we are talking about 65 lbs here. Add the weight of the tank and you
have maybe 72 lbs or so. One small bump and out goes the tank! Don't
feel too bad. Tire shops forget to tighten tires all the time, oil
change shops let a car out without oil every now and then. The main
thing is no one got hurt and the car is easily repairable.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Marvin" <marv_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> In disclosing one's stupidity, it is hoped that other non-mechanics
working on their DeLoreans, do not follow my scenario. 
> 
> When replacing the lower 2 coolant lines located behind the skid
plate, the plate must be removed. After replacing the 2 hoses, the
plate must be immediately reinstalled. If you don't, and decide to
drive your car to make sure the hoses do not leak (as I did) you will
end up having one big headache. The back of the gas tank will slide
downwards, out of the car, gas will pour out of the hole caused by the
tank rubbing against the roadway, the fire dept. 



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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2004 04:09:38 -0000
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Defrost troubles

Hey guys, every time it rains I have the worst problem with everything
fogging up on me. I turn on defrost and it hardly does anything. Does
this rely on the A/C? I know the defrosters are opening because you
can feel air coming from them. The air isn't rushing out though, same
with any other position on my control-the air just doesn't flow as
quick as I thought it should... is there anyway to increase air flow?
Anywhere to check for restrictions? It just seems as the fan doesn't
deliver enough air. Thanks for the help-Dani B. #5003




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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2004 06:42:48 -0000
From: "sweitzel_2000" <sweitzel_at_dml_lffltd.com>
Subject: Trailing arm bolt question

I bought a set of Toby TAB's and am planning to install them very 
soon. Tonight I was under the car and realized that I need some 
clarification. I have an automatic. It's been said that the auto 
trans doesn't have to be removed from the car to replace the TABs. I 
see that there is ample room on the passenger side to slide the bolt 
out, but can someone who's done this before re-iterate what exactly 
needs to be done or how to move the trans to get the driver's side 
bolt out?  thanks in advance -sean




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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2004 06:16:05 -0700 (PDT)
From: Chris Shepherd <chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Manual Shifting questions - Now Idle issues

Mike,
Try disconnecting your Idle Speed ECU, black box under the tray behind the drivers seat with two plugs. Unplug both plugs, then start the car. If the idle is somewhat normal and stays there, chances are that's the problem.
 
Chris

Mike Polzin <MPolzin_at_dml_sen.com> wrote:
Well, I completed the adjustment on the transmission cable this weekend.
After initially lengthening the cable - getting back 5th, but losing
Reverse, first and second - I shortened it 1/4 turn until I had everything,
so life is now good. I took the car out driving and put about 100 miles on
it and it shifts very smoothly.

I am still having problems with a high idle. I tested the frequency valve
and it is good. The car was idling warm around 2000 RPM's, and I started to
mess with the plug that goes to the idle speed motor and the RPM's suddenly
dropped down to a steady 900 RPM's... I thought great, the connections are
dirty, easy fix! So I cleaned up the connections, plugged it back in and I
was back at 2000 RPM's, and no amount of playing with the plug would change
anything.



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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2004 09:42:18 +0100 (BST)
From: DANIEL SHANE <daniel.shane_at_dml_btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Steering Column Bushing shortcut

Hi Cain,

I did mine last friday and it only took a few hours to
do properly.

Remove both knee pads on the drivers side, undo the
upper knuckle and remove it's bolt, remove the two 17
mm bolts holding the column and unplug the 3
connectors from the switch gear.

Then you can remove the complete column, replace the
bush and re-fit.  Easier to refit if there are 2
people doing it as getting the splines on the column
to fit into the knuckle can be very tricky on your
own.

I can highly recommend DMUK's replacement lower bush
as is not made from polyurethane like the original. 
Is a much tougher material.

Dan

 --- wayofcain <wayofcain_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote: 
> Hello,
> 
> Saturday vin2835 lost the steering column bushing.
> It seems that 
> somewhere I read of a shortcut to getting a new one
> in there that 
> bypassed the removal of the column. 



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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2004 07:25:04 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: warning to non-mechanics (gas tank)


Marvin, we must be related!!!  Sure sounds like some
of the dumb things I have done.

Dick Ryan
VIN 16867


		
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Declare Yourself - Register online to vote today!
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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2004 15:16:45 -0000
From: "austinbrumley" <austinbrumley_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Roadworks Auto Carpet Kit

Well I finally got my new carpet in. It was ordered on 9-02 & showed 
up yesterday. It is a great kit, however it is not for the purists. I 
ordered medium grey which i think is the closest match you can order. 
It is a bit darker than the original and the grain is a bit off. Also 
the carpet is cut & sewn as opposed to molded. I was worried about 
this but it looks great. Oh one last thing you are probably wondering 
about how the carpet attaches to the door sill. Well just like the 
factory it has a piece of thick vinyl that you overlap and glue in 
place with 3M adhesive. For $359 it was worth every penny my car even 
has that new car smell.


   
Austin
16182




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Message: 21
Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2004 15:53:18 -0000
From: "Adam Lee" <delorean852003_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: VIN 1913 Needs some help ...

I was driving my car the other day and had no problems.  I filled up 
with gas and drove home. On the way home she started kinda "cutting 
Out". The engine would be running but I had no control over the pedal 
(no Acceleration). Then it would kick back on and I would have power 
again. This all took place within a couple of seconds.  Then I was 
driving down the road and I lost the throttle again. Heard three 
small deep pops in the engine. Then she died.  It wouldn't start it 
would just turn over and over and sounded like it wanted to start. My 
dad is a police man and I had him come out and push the car (it has a 
push bar on the front) up to 15MPH and then I popped the clutch and 
it started (reluctanly) and my dad said that it shot out 2 - 3 inches 
of FLAMES out of the exhaust !!!! I drove her home and it kept 
cutting out and dying and I would just coast to about 15MPH and pop 
the clutch again. Once I got home (about a mile away) I let her sit 
all night long and the next morning, I tried to start it and it 
started up for about 30 Seconds and died. I havent touced it since 
(about three days ago). Please help if you can.

Adam Lee
VIN 1913  




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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2004 18:16:57 -0000
From: "Robert Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Lock Module Wireing

Does anyone have a wire diagram of the lock module and the connections
coming out of it?
I am going to install a 3rd party remote lock and alarm system
and I need to know what goes where.
If anyone can help, please let me know.
- Videobob




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Message: 23
Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2004 13:18:53 -0000
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: warning to non-mechanics (gas tank)

Just wanted to say thanks. Now I don't feel as bad for the many 
goofs I have made over the years. Good story there, sorry for your 
bad luck, but I could picture the entire scenario you just dictated. 
Least the neighbors got a good show.

Best of luck with future repairs.

Joe O'Brien

2524 & 16634






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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2004 16:49:31 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>
Subject: Re: warning to non-mechanics (gas tank)

Marv and List,

Just thought I would pass along some advice I heard at the PF show
regarding shipping a new/used Delorean fuel tank via UPS or USPS.
When they ask what the item is that you are shipping, tell them
it is a water storage tank that is used in the bow of a boat. 

This avoids all of the problems that may arise if you say that it
is a gas tank or fuel tank.  If it is a used tank, make sure to
clean it out well with solvent, then flush it out with soap/water
and let it dry completely, to get rid of any gas smell.

If a gas or solvent odor persists, you can say it's a "gray water"
storage tank and you used solvent to clean it out before shipping.

Marv, if you cannot find a good, cheap fuel tank to buy, I have a
good but not so cheap fuel tank, if you are interested.

Later,
Rich W.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Marvin" <marv_at_dml_p...> wrote:
>
> In disclosing one's stupidity, it is hoped that other non-
mechanics working on their DeLoreans, do not follow my scenario. 
> 
> snip <
> 
> Anyone have a good, cheap gas tank with the foam attached?
> 
> snip <
> 
> Marv.
> # 17077
> marv_at_dml_p...





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Message: 25
Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2004 07:56:09 -0700
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayfw_at_dml_charter.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Gas Mileage

 Hoo boy,  I hope todays moderator "crushes" the gas mileage thread before
it takes up the entire List again.   I wouldn't believe my own grandmother
or pastor when it comes to gas mileage stories and top speed
stories....personally I get 72 MPG at 170MPH in MY D.  Anyone can type
anything!!
Murray
Vin: 05962
Lic: DMC-XII




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