From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2251
Date: Wednesday, September 29, 2004 7:56 AM

There are 22 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. LockZILLA with Remote ZILLA kit for sale
From: "Robert Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

2. Re: Lock Module Wireing
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

3. Copyright Photos?
From: "media1524" <brentlun_at_dml_netrax.net>

4. Re: Defrost troubles
From: Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

5. RE: LockZILLA with Remote ZILLA kit for sale
From: "Service" <service_at_dml_techno-concepts.com>

6. Re: LockZILLA with Remote ZILLA kit for sale
From: "checksix3" <jetjock11_at_dml_hotmail.com>

7. Delorean for sale in St. Louis (on ebay)
From: "Paul" <vrt10whips_at_dml_yahoo.com>

8. Re: Brake light trouble 3
From: "p12c16" <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com>

9. Re: Delorean for sale in St. Louis (on ebay)
From: "Mike" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>

10. Re: Copyright Photos?
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_fuse.net>

11. Re: LockZILLA with Remote ZILLA kit for sale
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>

12. RE: VIN 1913 Needs some help ...
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>

13. Re: Removing Broken CO Adjustment Wrench
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

14. Re: Digest Number 2250 (non mechanic)
From: "Marvin" <marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com>

15. Re: Defrost troubles
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

16. Re: Lock Module Wireing
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

17. Re: VIN 1913 Needs some help ...
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

18. Re: Trailing arm bolt question
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

19. RE: LockZILLA with Remote ZILLA kit for sale
From: M M <dmc4matt_at_dml_yahoo.com>

20. Re: Steering Column Bushing shortcut
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

21. Re: Lock Module Wireing
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

22. RE: VIN 1913 Needs some help ...
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2004 18:24:02 -0000
From: "Robert Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: LockZILLA with Remote ZILLA kit for sale

as per my previous post, I am installing a 3rd party remote alarm kit.
So I will be removing and selling my LOCKZILLA with the REMOTEZILLA kit.
I had decorated the remote to look really cool with a custom "DMC"
logo on it.
The kit comes with two remotes and simply plugs in.
It takes about one minute to install.
Just lift your fuse access cover, unplug the lock module and 
plug the ZILLA kit into it.
That's it.
You will now be able to lock and unlock your doors by remote
and never need to use the key again.

These sell for $220 each ($440 for both plus shipping)
and I have been told that ZILLA doesn't seem to be making
these anymore and they are hard to get, so I don't know if they
are still in stock anywhere or not...

... but if someone wants mine before I stick it on eBay I will
take $420.00 for it shipped, since it is like new anyway.

If no one bites then it will go on eBay where I know it will sell.
These are in high demand and the quickest install you can do.
The alarm/remote start kit I am installing is costing me over $600
not to mention the extras!
So the ZILLA kit is not only easy but reversable, no permanant
modifications and no wire cutting.

Everything comes in the original boxes with paperwork and two remotes.
Contact me directly for details.
Thanks.
- Videobob







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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2004 18:29:50 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Lock Module Wireing

Its in the "technical manual" 

Also take a look at
http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/doorlocks.htm

Dave



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Robert Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_h...> 
wrote:
> Does anyone have a wire diagram of the lock module and the 
connections
> coming out of it?
> I am going to install a 3rd party remote lock and alarm system
> and I need to know what goes where.
> If anyone can help, please let me know.
> - Videobob




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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2004 15:19:06 -0000
From: "media1524" <brentlun_at_dml_netrax.net>
Subject: Copyright Photos?

Does anyone remember when some "artist" used a photo of Matt Olan's 
car at Memphis to create an "origional work" for sale on e-Bay?

Has anyone seen this?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?
ViewItem&category=4150&item=2272728861&rd=1

You can't miss D-Rex and Curtis' car.  Does this vendor have 
permission to sell these images?

Brent Lundgren
VIN #17006




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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2004 11:53:22 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Defrost troubles

Dani,
 
The foggy windows could be a lot of things, but as far as air flow is concerned...
 
First check that the polarity is correct on your fan motor, as some GM replacements turn the wrong direction.  Also, make sure your A/C mode switch is not leaking.  
 
Provided those two things are ok, see this link to fix the likely source of your problem:
 
http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/heatairleak.htm
 
This procedure dramatically increased my airflow, as well as keep my feet cozy in the winter!
 
For me and 1063,
Jake Kamphoefner


Dani B <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net> wrote:
Hey guys, every time it rains I have the worst problem with everything
fogging up on me. I turn on defrost and it hardly does anything. Does
this rely on the A/C? I know the defrosters are opening because you
can feel air coming from them. The air isn't rushing out though, same
with any other position on my control-the air just doesn't flow as
quick as I thought it should... is there anyway to increase air flow?
Anywhere to check for restrictions? It just seems as the fan doesn't
deliver enough air. Thanks for the help-Dani B. #5003




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2004 15:12:24 -0400
From: "Service" <service_at_dml_techno-concepts.com>
Subject: RE: LockZILLA with Remote ZILLA kit for sale

Everyone,

Just got off the phone with Bob Zilla and he said he is still making 
all the quality products we have been buying from our vendors
with full warranty and all new updates.

He just updated my Lockzilla and sent it right back to me.
He has been running a little behind due to some special projects.

It's worth the wait for new, unaltered, updated product.

Ken
#2700




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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2004 19:46:31 -0000
From: "checksix3" <jetjock11_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: LockZILLA with Remote ZILLA kit for sale


$600? For around $100 and you doing the work you could install a full 
alarm (with door monitoring, shock sensor, and siren), remote start, 
keyless entry (locking and unlocking), door launchers (one or both 
doors) and many other programmable options like timed start, window 
control, ect. A few more bucks will get you paging. All these 
functions are integrated into one small off the shelf box and easy to 
wire. Dual remotes (with or without paging) are included.

I spent time analyzing both controller specs and the car's wiring to 
find a commercially available box that would integrate into the car's 
wiring with a minimum of fuss. It's also a high frequency long range 
rolling code system so it's secure and you don't need to be anywhere 
near the car to make it work. And work well it does.

Btw, unless your new system provides more than trigger signals and 
can handle the locking logic (or you intend to do some wiring 
changes) you're still going to need a lock module.

Just my two cents...




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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2004 20:06:34 -0000
From: "Paul" <vrt10whips_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Delorean for sale in St. Louis (on ebay)

Hey all,

Just thought I would let you know, this D that is on ebay is 
Literally 2 miles away from my house.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?
ViewItem&rd=1&item=2491142269&category=31830

I would be more than happy to check it out for anyone who is 
interested, or if you had anything in particular that you would like 
me to look at.  

I believe this is the third delorean they have sold, and the second 
one this year.  I went and checked out the one they had for sale 
earlier this year, and they were very friendly and let me test drive 
it without a second thought, and left me alone to look at it.

Just let me know.

Regards,

Paul Nolan
MidWestWhips




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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2004 20:36:03 -0000
From: "p12c16" <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Brake light trouble 3

He has it fixed now, but just to correct Toby, the early cars do in fact have another in-line 
fuse for the brakelights.  It hangs from the wiring loom near the left wall of the driver's 
side of the car.Mine did and it burned up on me one day, and I am positive it was installed 
at the factory.  It is a white fuse holder with a green wire in one end and a brown in the 
other.  Eventually DMC eliminated it and installed the fuse in the spare socket of the fuse 
box in the back.  That is why on the fuse box the early cars say the #18 fuse is "spare" 
while in later cars it says "Brake Lamps".  Just a little trivia for all of you.  

Patrick
1880




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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2004 20:49:36 -0000
From: "Mike" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Delorean for sale in St. Louis (on ebay)

Hi

Yes this is the third one they have sold... i privatley bought their 
their second one :)
Very proffesional and honest in thier description of the car and 
what exactly needed doing to it...  As for this one on Ebay, I would 
ask for further shots of the underside for this one as there looks 
to be some areas of rust to be 'bothered' about

Regards

Mike
#2001
Yorkshire, UK




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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2004 16:58:51 -0400
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_fuse.net>
Subject: Re: Copyright Photos?

Thanks for the heads-up!  Man, looks like this guy went through every 
major DeLorean website, and snagged as many photos as he could!  That's 
Ken's 170 mile car up in the right hand corner, and my car third row 
down on the left.

I've contacted the seller, and ebay about this.  I don't mind people 
promoting the car on a lighter, but you gotta at least get permission 
before you use somebody else's property in order to make a profit.

-Josh


media1524 wrote:

>Does anyone remember when some "artist" used a photo of Matt Olan's 
>car at Memphis to create an "origional work" for sale on e-Bay?
>
>Has anyone seen this?
>
>http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?
>ViewItem&category=4150&item=2272728861&rd=1
>
>You can't miss D-Rex and Curtis' car.  Does this vendor have 
>permission to sell these images?
>
>Brent Lundgren
>VIN #17006
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
> 
>
>
>
>
>  
>





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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2004 21:33:37 -0000
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: LockZILLA with Remote ZILLA kit for sale

Did he happen to mention if he plans to make any more Fanzilla units 
anytime soon? 

Just curious since those have been unavailable for almost a year if 
not longer.

Thanks for any info,

Joe O'Brien

2524 & 16634






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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2004 16:29:38 -0500
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: VIN 1913 Needs some help ...

Hmmm. I think there could be a number of things that could cause such 
symptoms. Unfortunately intermittent things are usually a bear to find and 
fix, and you can't just slap an OBDII reader on the car to find out what's 
happening.

Intermittent timing issues?
Intermittent/poor spark?
Ignition crossfire?
Intermittent/poor fuel delivery?
Timing chain jumped a tooth or too slack?

To begin with look carefuly around your engine compartment for anything 
obvious like electrical connectors that have fallen off. Next, think "tune 
up" if this hasn't been done in a while just to get that out of the way of 
further troubleshooting. Verify that your distruibutor cap, rotor, wires, 
and plugs are all in good condition. Make sure the initial timing is at 13 
degrees BTDC and does not jump around. Make sure the secondary (high 
voltage) wire is making solid contact at the coil. Sometimes the rubber boot 
can push itself off the tower and it naturally drags the wire with it.

Next what about your fuel delivery? The last thing you mentioned before you 
experienced the problem was that you filled up. Was the gas bad?

Does your air sensor vane move freely inside the cone or is it binding or 
sticking? If it sticks the car could run lean or rich, and either situation 
might cause some of the driveability symptoms you mention.

How's your fuel pump and fuel pickup hose? The hose can collapse which would 
make the car run lean. A lean engine could backfire and cause the pops you 
heard as well as lack of power.

Flames out the tail pipe is most likely unburned fuel igniting in the 
exhaust. If one or more of your cylinders is not firing properly they are 
dumping a rich mixture into your exhaust manifolds where it can be ignited 
by exhaust from cylinders that are firing.

You'll probably have to systematically check/correct/eliminate possible 
causes until you come upon the cause or causes of this. Only actually doing 
the troubleshooting will lead yiou to the answer, but I suspect fuel 
delivery issues. If you have a K-Jet fuel pressure gauge, look at your fuel 
pressures. (System pressure and control pressure) to make sure they are in 
spec.

Have you done anything to the car recently? If so, what?

Good luck!

-Joe Kuchan

>From: "Adam Lee" <delorean852003_at_dml_yahoo.com>
>Subject: [DML] VIN 1913 Needs some help ...
>
>I was driving my car the other day and had no problems.  I filled up
>with gas and drove home. On the way home she started kinda "cutting
>Out". The engine would be running but I had no control over the pedal
>(no Acceleration). Then it would kick back on and I would have power
>again.



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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2004 21:53:55 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Removing Broken CO Adjustment Wrench

The fuel/air mixture unit is surprisingly easy to disassemble. Pivot
shaft is NOT pressed in (air sensor plate counter weight does hold it
tightly however -- loosen the two screws on either side, accessed from
below). Then simply remove the snap rings and push it out with a
screwdriver. Can extract the broken allen wrench, free up the CO
adjustment screw, etc.

This unit does need to be vacuum tight -- treat yourself to a new
gasket from one of the vendors during reassembly. May as well replace
all the O rings as well.

Bill Robertson
#5939



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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2004 17:54:30 -0400
From: "Marvin" <marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com>
Subject: Re: Digest Number 2250 (non mechanic)

Thanks for all the verbal support regarding my dumb action and the damaged gas tank. 

The main reason I sent in the story was to let other non mechanic DeLorean owners know that there are other owners who, at least try, depending on the needed fix, to repair their own cars, as well, some danger areas. We may not have all the technical skills to do electrical stuff or understand what a solenoid does, but we try and doing so, learn a little bit more about the car. If and when successful, we really feel good! If we screw up, yes, it may cost some $$ to fix the blunder. We will go slower, ask more question on this email format, and amaze ourselves, when it goes well.

In this case, I had a licensed mechanic also overlook the fact there were no straps holding the gas tank in place. We assumed (bad word) the tank was held in place "some way". We were on coolant lines mode, not gas tank mode.

This experience, in no way, ends my mechanical apprentice career. However, the next time I screw up big time, you won't hear it about from me! 

Marv.
# 17077
marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2004 22:29:49 -0000
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Defrost troubles

thanks for the help-It was of course-the foam in back of the box that you had 
indicated. I found it was falling off, but still part was attached. I poured fast tack 
adhesive around the edges and around the holes where the hoses pass 
through, and now I have all kinds of air flow.  I always wondered why my feet 
were freezing a few winters ago...Doing this work has also motivated me to 
rebuild my mode switch once again, (still leaks on MAX though-but at least it 
moves better now that it is all lubed up). I also rebuilt my otterstat switch-
removing those crummy plastic pieces that broke, very simple to do I will post 
pictures and description of this work for those who are interested. I was 
wondering about the A/C having anything to do with defrosting, because I 
have no A/C in my car, I've removed the compressor and lines-people have 
told me that when you use defrost it uses a little A/C. But my 1950 buick 
defrosts just great with no A/C, so I'm sure I will be find. Thanks again Jake, I 
should have looked through the tech pages first before posting, but thanks for 
the help and reminding me about the tech pages...

-Dani B. #5003



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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2004 23:03:44 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Lock Module Wireing

Try this.
http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/doorlocks.htm

Harold McElraft - 3354

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Robert Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_h...> 
wrote:
> Does anyone have a wire diagram of the lock module and the 
connections coming out of it?



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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2004 23:04:40 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: VIN 1913 Needs some help ...

Start with the fuel tank. Are you low on fuel, maybe the suction hose
is letting air in. Does the fuel pump even run? Try a squirt of ether.
If it runs then you can be sure you have a fuel problem.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Adam Lee" <delorean852003_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> I was driving my car the other day and had no problems.  I filled up 
> with gas and drove home. On the way home she started kinda "cutting 
> Out". The engine would be running but I had no control over the pedal 
> (no Acceleration). Then it would kick back on and I would have power 
> again.



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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2004 23:10:38 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Trailing arm bolt question

When you have a problem with an item you purchesed form a vender
generally the first step is to contact them. I am sure if you did Toby
would give you the whole procedure. A shortened version follows:
Raise car. Remove the bolts holding the LEFT SIDE trailing arm to the
rear carrier and the trailing arm bolt. You do not need to remove or
disconnect the brake line, just move the trailing arm enough to get
out of the way. BTW only tighten the trailing arm bolt WITH THE WEIGHT
OF THE CAR ON THE SUSPENSION!!!! Doing it any other way preloads the
bushings and will cause early failure.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


-- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweitzel_2000" <sweitzel_at_dml_l...> wrote:
> I bought a set of Toby TAB's and am planning to install them very 
> soon. Tonight I was under the car and realized that I need some 
> clarification.



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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2004 17:02:08 -0700 (PDT)
From: M M <dmc4matt_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: LockZILLA with Remote ZILLA kit for sale

Hey Everyone,
 
Just wondering what these "New Zilla Updates" are. I am looking into getting the door launchers for my car eventually, and just want to know what is new on the market. 
 
BTW- Stupid Question: Is there such a thing as a door closer??? I know there are the launchers, but is there such a product that will close the doors?
 
Thanks,
Matt
VIN 2205

Service <service_at_dml_techno-concepts.com> wrote:
Everyone,

Just got off the phone with Bob Zilla and he said he is still making 
all the quality products we have been buying from our vendors
with full warranty and all new updates.



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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2004 17:46:07 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Steering Column Bushing shortcut

If you spread the clamp apart a bit with a
screwdriver, the spline will slide in easier.

--- DANIEL SHANE <daniel.shane_at_dml_btinternet.com> wrote:

<SNIP>
> Then you can remove the complete column, replace the
> bush and re-fit.  Easier to refit if there are 2
> people doing it as getting the splines on the column
> to fit into the knuckle can be very tricky on your
> own.
<SNIP>




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Message: 21
Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2004 17:51:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Lock Module Wireing

I can sell you one..


--- Robert Moseley <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com> wrote:

> Does anyone have a wire diagram of the lock module
> and the connections
> coming out of it?
> I am going to install a 3rd party remote lock and
> alarm system
> and I need to know what goes where.
> If anyone can help, please let me know.
> - Videobob



		
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail - 50x more storage than other providers!
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail



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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2004 20:49:34 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: VIN 1913 Needs some help ...

Adam, Several things could be happening.
#1. Fuel pressure: When was the last time the filter screen and fuel filter
was changed.
#2. Warm Up Regulator /CPR check out if above is ok.
#3. What does your volt meter say or how is the alternator and the state of
the battery charge. If the battery is low or the alternator isn't putting
out enough voltage then the fuel pump won't turn fast enough and that leads
to a low fuel pressure problem.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com



-----Original Message-----
From: Adam Lee [mailto:delorean852003_at_dml_yahoo.com]
Subject: [DML] VIN 1913 Needs some help ...


I was driving my car the other day and had no problems.  I filled up
with gas and drove home. On the way home she started kinda "cutting
Out". The engine would be running but I had no control over the pedal
(no Acceleration). Then it would kick back on and I would have power
again.



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


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