From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2256
Date: Saturday, October 02, 2004 7:53 PM


There are 24 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. RE: Oil Light
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

2. NOS vs New
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

3. Re: Pigeon Forge DVD set
From: "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113_at_dml_yahoo.com>

4. Re: Re: Single Key For Two Key Cars
From: kevin creason <kcreason77_at_dml_yahoo.com>

5. Delorean Side stripes
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

6. Re: Single Key For Two Key Cars
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

7. Re: Dented Doors
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

8. Re: Single Key For Two Key Cars
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

9. RE: Oil Light
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>

10. Re: Ignition upgrading
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

11. Re: Oil Light
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

12. Re: Ignition upgrading
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

13. Re: Pigeon Forge DVD set
From: DmcGman_at_dml_comcast.net

14. Re: Ignition upgrading
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

15. Delorean Spotted
From: Samuel <samuel_yahoo_at_dml_lightspeed.cx>

16. Reminder
From: "Flavia" <frvianna_at_dml_yahoo.com>

17. adjusting the idle
From: Warren Turkal <wt_at_dml_midsouth.rr.com>

18. Re: Ignition upgrading
From: "p12c16" <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com>

19. NJ anybody
From: "baseball8819" <baseball8819_at_dml_netscape.net>

20. Re: Delorean Owners Coming to Las Vegas Nov 5 -9, 2004
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>

21. And for my next trick.....
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

22. #1 cylinder problems
From: S E Ableman <s.ableman_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>

23. Re: And for my next trick.....
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

24. Re: #1 cylinder problems
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>





Message: 1
Date: Fri, 1 Oct 2004 18:32:15 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Oil Light

Luis,
The oil pressure sending unit on the drivers side of the front part of the
block may need replacing. They are only $11.50. Also be sure your running a
20/40 or 20/50 weight oil to get the correct pressure.
If the cat was not glowing red then it should be ok, it get real hot.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com


-----Original Message-----
From: trekkerlb [mailto:TrekkerLB_at_dml_Netzero.Com]
Sent: Friday, October 01, 2004 2:57 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Oil Light



I'm still new at being my own mechanic, and reciently I have had the
oil light come on, and does not turn off.  The oil pressure gauge
indicate between 1/4 to 1/2, I checked and added some oil, but yet
it stay on.  Is it possible to put a oil pressure gauge right into
the sensors opening and take readings?  Any guess as to what it may
be.  Unfortuneatly, the car had sat for some time, when I finally
got it running this happened.

This leads me to another question.  While adding oil, I had spilled
some onto the Cat - a fire started due to this,



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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 02 Oct 2004 00:36:35 -0000
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: NOS vs New

Group, 
I get several questions about the words we throw around and 
sometimes they need a little explaining to some of the new people 
getting into automotive. 
The one I get the most is NOS ( New old Stock and New ( Like in 
brand new ).
Be carefull with NOS inventory, especially items that contain seals, 
rubber or flexable diaphrams. Items like this will dry out over time 
and will leak or only work for a short time and quit. Example: 
clutch master cylinders, accumlators, brake master cylinders and 
clutch slave cylinders. These items may have been on the shelf for 
20+ years and the price you pay for someone selling it cheaper to 
get rid of them won't be worth the trouble of replacing the part for 
the sake of saving a few dollars.  Ask about warranty or replacement 
time if it's NOS stock.  
I hear this often about clutch master cylinders and accumulators. 
The customer say's he just put one in 6 months ago and it's already 
leaking. More that likley he got a New old stock. ( NOS ) not brand 
new fresh inventory. 
My point is just be carefull about the word ( NEW ) being used and 
the company should say (NOS ).
Normally metal parts that are NOS are good if they have no rust. 
Remember,parts are  ( not ) stored in climate control warehouses and 
the heat and cold over years will take it's tole.
So, Before you buy you may want to find out is it Brand new like in 
the last year or so or is't it NOS like old inventory.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com

          




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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 01 Oct 2004 22:37:41 -0000
From: "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Pigeon Forge DVD set

 I wasnt at PF so I bought the dvd set from VB. Personally I think 
he did a really good job putting it together. I think we should keep 
in mind that he is only one guy and im sure wanted to enjoy the show 
himself. Did I really like the footage? .....Well, Fred Dellis made 
my day, Curtis and the rest? Kinda like a star trek convention to 
me...but thats not Video Bob's doing. Afterall he was just filming 
not producing. I think the show had its successes and shortcomings 
as with all things. I think we should all be grateful Ken put it 
together and someone was there to capture it. 




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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 1 Oct 2004 16:05:53 -0700 (PDT)
From: kevin creason <kcreason77_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Single Key For Two Key Cars

> I have to file
> shoulders off an X29 blank (lengthening the keyway)
> to make it work in
> my ignition, which would indicate 2 key heritage.
Um, no. The X29 key blank should work without
modification in a Delo ignition if cut correctly. Your
spaces may be off on the blank that you are using.
There is room for the tip of the key blank to push
through the end of the cylinder, so this is my guess.

> And now that you
> mention it: my key does bottom out in the door
> cylinders, which would
> indicate a shorter original. 

This is even more weird. In a 2-key car it is a
totally different keyway and the cuts are off-center
from each other.

Bill, one of your locks is definitely not original
manufacturer. If you park your car for the winter,
pull 'em off and mail them to me, I'll see what I can
do for you.


		
_______________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Declare Yourself - Register online to vote today!
http://vote.yahoo.com



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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 02 Oct 2004 00:50:21 -0000
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: Delorean Side stripes

Group,
With the help of Videobob I now have the black side stripes as shown 
on the web site. $124.95 per set. I have done a lot of looking and 
with the help of my brother in law who has all the equiptment and 
makes the plastic type signs, we have I feel the closest match to 
the original grain of the original black side stripes with out 
having to have it remade. Take a look at it and let me know what you 
think. Now that the pattern is in the computer, we may be able to 
make different colors if the material is available.
John Hervey
 http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/accessories.html




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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 02 Oct 2004 01:32:31 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Single Key For Two Key Cars

My car is a two key system. The door key will work only when in 
inserted one way. The ignition key works which-ever way.

Harold McElraft - 3354



-- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp_at_dml_s...> 
wrote:
>  
> Actually, I may need to partially retract my statement...
>  
> I just posted saying that both the door key and the ignition key 
on my two key system were bilaterally symmetrical. On closer 
inspection, it appears my door key is different on the two sides, 
unlike the ignition key.  But I have never consciously oriented the 
key a certain way when unlocking my car.  Have I just been lucky??
>  



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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 02 Oct 2004 01:38:13 -0000
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Dented Doors

If you know me, you know I can't leave something broken or damaged
without at least trying to repair. I have been doing body work for
years, and even some stainless work (very little)-so I figured why the
hell not. In a case such as mine, the rock hit so hard it "stretched"
the steel inwards. I used a propane torch to trick the metal into
forming back into position (of course there was some rippling) but now
it is almost perfect (and has no ripples). I just need to do a tiny
bit more work and it
will look like nothing ever happened. Except the very bottom of the
door where it is impossible to hit from behind, this will still be a
little rough. This work took me about 6 hours, so its very slow going
to make it perfect. But you take this kind of time, and you will be
very happy with the results. With this kind of steel you need to
fashion your own kind of tools, but other then that, its kinda fun. If
you havent done any repairs on metal I wouldn't go out and just start
hammering away, this takes time, skills and all kinds of tools and
rigging.
I'll be sure to post pictures of the repaired dent tomorrow- Dani B.
#5003

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...>
wrote:
> You just "hit the nail on the head", so to speak. The only way to
work
> the dents out of Dani's and my doors is to hammer them from behind.
> Unfortunately inner door skins prevent access.
> 



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Message: 8
Date: Sat, 02 Oct 2004 02:04:12 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Single Key For Two Key Cars

Key situation isn't broken -- why should I fix it? Little else is
original spec on the vehicle anyway...

If any cylinder has been replaced, it is probably ignition. Doubt PO
would go to the trouble of replacing both door locks. How standard
would ignition cylinder have been?

Living down South, my car is in service year round.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, kevin creason <kcreason77_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> Bill, one of your locks is definitely not original
> manufacturer. If you park your car for the winter,
> pull 'em off and mail them to me, I'll see what I can
> do for you.



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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 01 Oct 2004 21:11:35 -0500
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Oil Light

Luis,

Was your cat REALLY hot, i.e. glowing red and/or emitting creaking, 
snapping, ticking, or popping sounds, or giving off any smells before the 
oil hit it? If not you are probably OK. If you experienced any of these 
symptoms, then for some reason you may be running extremely rich to the 
point where combustion is finishing in the exhaust system. Cats will glow 
red hot if they are receiving unburned fuel in the exhaust stream which then 
burns inside the cat itself. In cases like that internal damage to the cat 
usually occurs.

-Joe Kuchan

>This leads me to another question.  While adding oil, I had spilled
>some onto the Cat - a fire started due to this, fortuneately it did
>not do any damage, other than scare me to death!  I had run the car
>for approximately 15-20 minutes, a co-worker thought that something
>was wrong because the cat was that hot - is he correct?
>
>Thanks for the help!
>
>Luis
>3723

_________________________________________________________________
Get ready for school! Find articles, homework help and more in the Back to 
School Guide! http://special.msn.com/network/04backtoschool.armx




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Message: 10
Date: Sat, 02 Oct 2004 02:37:12 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Ignition upgrading

I researched a while when I dove in to getting my D ready for PF. 
Personally I was afraid to venture too far from OEM components. Over 
the years I have observed lots of issues when folks tried different 
stuff when it comes to the spark. The one issue that concerned me 
the most is the coil. The resistance, the ECU and induction unit all 
need to work together for proper performance. Mechanically, the 
rotor, cap, plugs and wires were a lesser concern to me although the 
spark plugs should be in the correct heat range for the engine. So, 
move away from OEM and I see lots of mismatch possibilities and 
guess work unless there is some engineering involved. That's when I 
looked at DMCH's Nology stuff. A bit pricey but, the engineering 
appeared to be there to suit me. I have been very impressed so far 
with the Nology kit. A noticeable kick too. I especially like the 
performance at the higher revs. I also had the engine analyzed for 
emission performance after the tune - super clean - passed with 
flying colors.

I did get a new OEM NOS coil from DMCH to have a "fresh" unit and 
BTW it is less expensive than other "replacements". Nology has a 
coil amplifier engineered for that unit. The Nology wires are cool 
looking but you really don't see much of them once you have 
everything back together.

I also got all the Hervey switching that comes with new rubber and 
his neat marking system for easy hookup, Hervey's silicone vacuum 
hoses, and heater valve. I have Grady's deluxe water pump kit 
(thermostat, gaskets, etc.), silicone coolant hoses, seals and bolt 
kits.

The only thing I had to fabricate was a coil wire. Go figure, Nology 
does not include a coil wire with the set. So, I got a Taylor 8mm 
Pro silicone coil wire from the local speed shop and made my own.

Harold McElraft - 3354



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Louie G <louie_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Hi List,
> 
> I'm about to take off my intake manifold to replace some vacuum 
components on my car, and I figured while I am in "the valley of 
death" that I'd just go ahead and replace and upgrade all the 
components  in the area. I'd like some advice or experience on 
upgrading my ignition system. 



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Message: 11
Date: Sat, 02 Oct 2004 02:50:48 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Oil Light

You do not need to replace the sender unit on the driver's side. You
WILL have to remove it, disassemble it, clean it, reseal with
silicone, and reinstall so it will stop leaking. The reason the light
stays on is that the wire going to it is a "crispy critter". It got
burnt up and the insulation is gone so it is grounding on the engine
causing the light to remain on. You just have to replace a short
section of the wire with something that will take the high temperature.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> Luis,
> The oil pressure sending unit on the drivers side of the front part
of the
> block may need replacing. They are only $11.50. Also be sure your 




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Message: 12
Date: Sat, 02 Oct 2004 03:02:19 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Ignition upgrading

Replacing the 20 year old parts will get you plenty of "upgrading". If
you want more you will get very little for the money you will spend.
Stay away from the platinum plugs. Rob Grady was enamored with them at
one time and it was all he would put in. That was until he started to
see cars he did come back running bad. He finally figured out that the
platinum plugs were leaking at the shell where it was crimped on the
porcelein. The blow-by reduced the compression and the performance.
BTW the platinum plugs aren't supposed to make the car run any better,
they are only supposed to last longer. Not a really big issue for most
of us who use the car sparingly and/or are limited by insurance to
2,500 miles per year. You will replace the spark plugs way before you
wear them out even if you only tune up the car every 10 years! Running
a hotter coil may give you a slight improvement until you break down
the cap, rotor, or ignition wires from the higher voltages. When you
are under the intake manifold the only things you have to replace
besides the "O" rings and the coolant hoses, are the vacuum hoses. The
switches and valves seem to be reliable.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> Louie
> I'll chime in for you and the rest of the group. The 8mm Taylor
wires are
> low resistance performance wire (350 ohm's per foot )and wound as to
cancel
> out RFI noise ( radio interference). Also, keep in mind that the
rotor we
> use has a 5000 ohm's resistance built into that, which again cut's 




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Message: 13
Date: Sat, 02 Oct 2004 01:30:58 +0000
From: DmcGman_at_dml_comcast.net
Subject: Re: Pigeon Forge DVD set

As I stated twice in my original post the DVD's are well worth 20 bucks.  Comments and suggestions should be welcome.  If all of us owners were satisfied with simply going out to our garages to look at a "D" then I guess no one would show up to these shows.  I think Ken's shows offer a heck of a lot more than a walk to my garage does as far as the cars on display.  Again something that I think is the main attraction.  I think there was plenty to see on the dragon of the cars navigating the turns in groups, not to mention the sceneary, and probably enough to see at the car show to fill two more DVD's.  Again much more than a trip to the garage, which is why people travel from all over the world to attend these events.  It isnt to listen to just lectures.  They are one part of many that make up these great events. 

Gary 


<<I tried to put together a video of the "dragon run", but really what is 
there to show?
It is something you have to experience for yourself to be effective.
Otherwise, it was just video of the road twisting and turning.
That get's boring after about 10 seconds.
As far as the car show goes, there were a ton of photos taken,
again, my defense is that if you want to take a look at a Delorean go 
outside
and look in your garage if you have one.
If you've seen one you have pretty much seen them all.
With the exception of a different shifter knob or cute little add on here 
and there,
I do regret not spending more time on the time machines....
I only concentrated on the important stuff like speakers, that stuff happens
only ONCE and you have to get it when it happens, the cars will always be 
there.

I will get more of the cars next time..... then we can have a 6 hour DVD.
- VB>>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 14
Date: Sat, 02 Oct 2004 03:49:08 -0000
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Ignition upgrading

I'm running +4 plugs, 8mm wires and an MSD coil. Resistor is stock.
Couldn't be happier with the results. I did this back in April and
still haven't had 1 problem with the ignition system since. Dani B. #5003




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Message: 15
Date: Fri, 01 Oct 2004 23:59:36 -0400
From: Samuel <samuel_yahoo_at_dml_lightspeed.cx>
Subject: Delorean Spotted

I was on my way to a friend's house this evening and I spotted a delorean parked one street over. Just about gave my girlfriend whiplash. No one was home, left a note and hope they contact me. I'm in Clearwater, FL. Bit of a drive for the owner.

Vin 11082 (was owned by Tom Rimkus), Arkansas state tag (plate read BAKNTIM). Any info of who owns it?

Samuel
#5096 (DR BROWN)




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Message: 16
Date: Sat, 02 Oct 2004 05:12:18 -0000
From: "Flavia" <frvianna_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Reminder

Just to remind you all that this coming Sunday, Oct 3 (11am to 4pm) 
will be the Classic Car Show at my college, which I am helping with 
the organization. The DeLorean Mid Atlantic Club supported us by 
posting an ad on their website. For those who didn't meet me in PF, I 
am a big BTTF fan, a DeLorean enthusiastic and I'd love to see more 
and more D's there. I have a couple confirmed.
The proceeds of the show will be donated to the American Cancer 
Society and the organizers are the officers and members of Phi Theta 
Kappa, International Honor Society.
The show will have a lot of activities, i.e: garage sale, kids' 
corner (so they won't touch the cars!), food, music, raffle, etc. The 
raffle has gift cards for local businesses that offer car services, 
an autographed item from the NJ Devils, season tickets for the local 
baseball league (Somerset Patiots), miniature cars and a lot more.
You can register on the day of the show, here are the directions: 
http://www.raritanval.edu/info/directions.html
I hope to see those who are in the Central Jersey area there!

Flavia





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Message: 17
Date: Sat, 2 Oct 2004 06:22:21 -0500
From: Warren Turkal <wt_at_dml_midsouth.rr.com>
Subject: adjusting the idle

Where would I find the description of the process for adjusting the throttle 
plate to be closed and setting the idle switch screws appropriately in the 
workshop manual?

wt
-- 
Warren Turkal
President, GOLUM, Inc. 501(c)3
http://www.golum.org/



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Message: 18
Date: Sat, 02 Oct 2004 14:54:21 -0000
From: "p12c16" <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Ignition upgrading


I replaced my plugs with the platinum ones Hervey sells, as well as the spark plug wires 
with the 8mm ones that Hervey sells (I won them in PF).  I also replaced the coil with a new 
one, but it is the original style, not the high powered one.  I notice a definate 
improvement...my car is MUCH peppier than it ever was before.  This could be due to the 
fact that before I changed anything I had the original wires and plugs in it still, but I highly 
recommend Hervey's products on this one.

Patrick
1880






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Message: 19
Date: Sat, 02 Oct 2004 15:18:24 -0000
From: "baseball8819" <baseball8819_at_dml_netscape.net>
Subject: NJ anybody



does anybody here own a delorean in NJ and possibly be willing to go 
and look at a car i'm interested in buying? I found a beauty, and it 
looks great in the pics i've been sent, but i'd also like a human's 
report. If you are interested send me an email at 
baseball8819_at_dml_gmail.com








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Message: 20
Date: Sat, 02 Oct 2004 11:49:00 -0500
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>
Subject: Re: Delorean Owners Coming to Las Vegas Nov 5 -9, 2004


A number of DeLorean owners appear to be headed for Las Vegas to the 
SEMA convention the first week in November.

I will be there on friday the last day of the show.  John and Steven are 
supposed to be there.   It would be great if the Delorean people can get 
together over the weekend.

Let me know if you are interested.

BOB Brandys








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Message: 21
Date: Sat, 02 Oct 2004 19:21:24 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: And for my next trick.....



I finally broke down and put military base decals on my car so I could
use the big DIY-autoshop.

I topped off my transmission gear oil from the axle seal replacement
job  I did and I replaced the front LH wheel bearing. (Ah...the car
lift was so nice to have)

I've been told many times by different people that the "wheel bearings
are sealed. You don't need to worry about replacing them". Hogwash.
The howling noises I got when driving say otherwise. 

Even sealed, the lubricant breaks down after 23 years of exposure to
heat, humidity and age. Faster if the seal ruptures when the rubber
dries out. They are very deceptive about failing too. You can't grab
the wheel and check for slop. Mine was tighter than a banjo string but
after I pressed it out of the hub, it rattled like a cheap kid's toy
made in Taiwan.

So far, I've done 3 of the 4 wheel bearings. I know, I know; I should
replace them in pairs. Well the only reason I didn't was because I was
told that they never fail!

The moral of my story is: Next time you take a pleasure drive on a
winding road, turn the radio off and listen for the "wow wow wow wow"
or growling noise. Especially if your car was a basket-case resto like
mine.

'Nuff said.

Rich A.
#5335








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Message: 22
Date: Sat, 02 Oct 2004 14:19:43 -0400
From: S E Ableman <s.ableman_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
Subject: #1 cylinder problems


List
    I can put a new spark plug in #1 cylinder and it will carbon up in 
15 minutes at idle. All the others plugs are fine. I swapped injectors 
with another cylinder and the problem stays in #1. If left alone it 
fouls the plug and causes the unburned  gas to get into the crankcase 
which dilutes the oil.  I'm thinking that this points to a valve problem 
or fuel distributor, any suggestions ?

Steve






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Message: 23
Date: Sat, 02 Oct 2004 19:27:21 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: And for my next trick.....



I ran into the same thing on the raffle car - the LF bearing was 
noisy and the noise would go away on left turns. When I took it apart 
there were microscopic pits on only one of the ball bearings - other 
than that it seemed fine. But they were enough to make the noise. 

Dave S

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> 
> 
 I did and I replaced the front LH wheel bearing. (Ah...the car
> lift was so nice to have)
> 
> I've been told many times by different people that the "wheel 
bearings
> are sealed. You don't need to worry about replacing them". Hogwash.
> The howling noises I got when driving say otherwise. 
> > 
> Rich A.
> #5335








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Message: 24
Date: Sat, 02 Oct 2004 20:20:01 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: #1 cylinder problems



Try a new plug wire.

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, S E Ableman <s.ableman_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> 
> List
>     I can put a new spark plug in #1 cylinder and it will carbon 
up in 
> 15 minutes at idle. All the others plugs are fine. I swapped 
injectors 
> with another cylinder and the problem stays in #1. If left alone 
it 
> fouls the plug and causes the unburned  gas to get into the 
crankcase 
> which dilutes the oil.  I'm thinking that this points to a valve 
problem 
> or fuel distributor, any suggestions ?
> 
> Steve








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