From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2258
Date: Monday, October 04, 2004 9:11 PM


There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. To: Everyone In The DeLorean Community
From: "maddog6198_2000" <maddog6198_at_dml_aol.com>

2. RE: Battery not charging
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>

3. Re: Battery not charging
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

4. Re: no heat! (and no defrost!)
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

5. RE: Battery not charging
From: Chris Almy <chris.almy_at_dml_comcast.net>

6. Re: Battery not charging
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

7. Re: Dented Doors
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

8. Re: #1 cylinder problems
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

9. Re: The DeLorean Community
From: "William" <wbowie2003_at_dml_yahoo.com>

10. Re: Battery not charging
From: "Owen _at_dml_ Aerodrome" <owen_at_dml_aerodrome.us>

11. How do you clean your wheels rims?
From: "Owen _at_dml_ Aerodrome" <owen_at_dml_aerodrome.us>

12. Re: Archive (was How do you clean ..)
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

13. Re: How do you clean your wheels rims?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

14. Re: Adjusting the throttle cable
From: "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_myrealbox.com>

15. Re: Archive (was How do you clean ..)
From: "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_myrealbox.com>

16. RE: no heat! (and no defrost!)
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

17. Re: Battery not charging
From: "Owen _at_dml_ Aerodrome" <owen_at_dml_aerodrome.us>

18. Factory painted Ds
From: "anbrahaesl" <anders_at_dml_smartfilm.se>

19. Re: Re: How do you clean your wheels rims?
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayfw_at_dml_charter.net>

20. Re: Factory painted Ds
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

21. Re: #1 cylinder problems
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

22. Re: Factory painted Ds
From: Warren Turkal <wt_at_dml_midsouth.rr.com>

23. Re: no heat! (and no defrost!)
From: "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_cox.net>

24. Re: Factory painted Ds
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

25. Re: How do you clean your wheels rims?
From: "Jason" <rowejj_at_dml_tds.net>





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 03 Oct 2004 23:39:57 -0000
From: "maddog6198_2000" <maddog6198_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: To: Everyone In The DeLorean Community



Dear Friends:

Recently, I made the decision to sell 15943 to a collector / 
investor. It was a decision that was difficult to make and only came 
together because everything fell into place rather quickly. Now that 
JIGAWAT has a new home in Richmond, Virginia. I am sure the new 
owner will be making himself to the known community when the time 
comes. He is a nice person and huge DeLorean fan. I am going to be 
looking at some other opportunities as well. 

I can truly say it was a pleasure meeting all of you (except D1) and 
being with you at these events. My sincerest thank you goes out to 
Ken Koncelik. I will always appreciate his efforts and advice over 
the past several years. I have never met a nicer DeLorean 
enthusiast. From my perspective, he has been the best friend to 
everyone within the group. I want to go on record to say that his 
actions and kindness will never be forgotten with me.

I also wish to thank Stephen, Warren, and James for receiving the 
panic parts phone calls when I was getting ready for Pigeon Forge. I 
was especially blown away when James answered the phone on a 
Saturday when they were closed. It is amazing how stressed you get 
when the crunch is on! 

I also want to acknowledge Dave Bauerle. Dave is an awesome DeLorean 
Tech and quite frankly, the only person to ever work on JIGAWAT 
other than myself. Dave is an ace and truly worth the drive to see 
him. 

My only regret was not beating Dan Deutsch before he 
officially "retired". With all that in mind, again, many thanks to 
all and feel free to e-mail me if I can ever help with anything.

Incidentally, for those of you that were in Pigeon Forge, I now have 
a 28 ft trailer that I am in no longer in need of also.

Warmest Regards,

John Curry
Columbus, Ohio
maddog6198_at_dml_aol.com









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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 3 Oct 2004 20:49:57 -0400
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>
Subject: RE: Battery not charging


I have somehting like this happening also and was meaning to post about
it, but I am not sure where to start.

Brand new battery, but when I step on the brakes (when car is not
running) everything dims!  If my car sits for more then 1-2 days with
the batteryhooked up, it does not start.  Battery is dead.  I can jump
it and it kicks right up.

After several hours, it also has issues starting.  It seems to have
juice, but the starter turns for a second, and then clicks.

I guess I should start with checking the ground?  (I removed the battery
switch, but that did nothing).
What if the ground is not the prob?  What could be draining my battery
so fast?

BTW:  It does start after being jumped and charging for a few min.



-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Almy [mailto:chris.almy_at_dml_comcast.net] 
Sent: Sunday, October 03, 2004 6:37 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Battery not charging




I had a similar problem too. Even though I replaced the battery and 
alternator, the battery would slowly drain. This was happening during 
regular driving. The problem turned out to be a bad battery ground. The 
connection from the negative cable to the frame was rusted and had over
45 
ohms of resistance. With that amount, the alternator couldn't properly 
charge the battery.

A quick temporary fix that worked for me was to use a jumper cable from
the 
negative battery post to the passenger seat belt bolt. This would bypass

the bad grounding point and allow the battery to charge.

Just be careful when repairing the ground. The bolt can easily break
off. 
Make sure you remove the lock nut inside the frame first.

Chris
VIN 4099

At 06:19 PM 10/3/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>Hey guys, I've noticed for a while now that every time I start my car, 
>the battery seems to be getting a little weaker. This battery was just 
>purchased in April so I don't think the battery is the problem. My volt

>gauge shows a good reading, 





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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 04 Oct 2004 01:08:48 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Battery not charging



You start by cleaning ALL the "big" connections. If you don't know if
the alternator is charging go to a shop and most will test the battery
and alternator for free in the hopes of selling you soemthing. Sears
does it too. If the stop lights were drawing too much current then you
would be eating up fuses. If the battery is over 5-6 years old it is
probably shot.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> 
> I have somehting like this happening also and was meaning to post about
> it, but I am not sure where to start.
> 
> Brand new battery, but when I step on the brakes (when car is not
> running) everything dims!  If my car sits for more then 1-2 days with
> the batteryhooked up, it does not start.  Battery is dead.  I can jump
> it and it kicks right up.
> 
> After several hours, it also has issues starting.  It seems to have
> juice, but the starter turns for a second, and then clicks.
> 
> I guess I should start with checking the ground?  (I removed the battery
> switch, but that did nothing).
> What if the ground is not the prob?  What could be draining my battery
> so fast?
> 
> BTW:  It does start after being jumped and charging for a few min.
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Chris Almy [mailto:chris.almy_at_dml_c...] 
> Sent: Sunday, October 03, 2004 6:37 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [DML] Battery not charging
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had a similar problem too. Even though I replaced the battery and 
> alternator, the battery would slowly drain. This was happening during 
> regular driving. The problem turned out to be a bad battery ground. The 
> connection from the negative cable to the frame was rusted and had over
> 45 
> ohms of resistance. With that amount, the alternator couldn't properly 
> charge the battery.
> 
> A quick temporary fix that worked for me was to use a jumper cable from
> the 
> negative battery post to the passenger seat belt bolt. This would bypass
> 
> the bad grounding point and allow the battery to charge.
> 
> Just be careful when repairing the ground. The bolt can easily break
> off. 
> Make sure you remove the lock nut inside the frame first.
> 
> Chris
> VIN 4099
> 
> At 06:19 PM 10/3/2004 +0000, you wrote:
> >Hey guys, I've noticed for a while now that every time I start my car, 
> >the battery seems to be getting a little weaker. This battery was just 
> >purchased in April so I don't think the battery is the problem. My volt
> 
> >gauge shows a good reading,








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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 04 Oct 2004 01:11:39 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: no heat! (and no defrost!)



With the motor running and warmed up and the heater on feel the 2
hoses behind the front right wheel on the frame going to the heater.
If they are not hot then you are not circulating coolant into the
heater core. Something is plugged up, maybe the heater valve is moving
but the insides are stuck.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 


-- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Cameron, Peter" <cameron_at_dml_b...> wrote:
> 
> I recently bought a low mileage (16000), well cared for delorean
automatic.
> Delighted with the car. I'm doing all the little things to bring it
into the









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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 03 Oct 2004 19:25:13 -0700
From: Chris Almy <chris.almy_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: RE: Battery not charging


Whenever you are troubleshooting electrical problems with the DeLorean, you 
must have a multi meter. I couldn't imagine trying to fix the electrical 
problems without one. The first thing you should do is disconnect the 
negative battery cable. With one end of the meter's leads connected to the 
cable, check the resistance using the other meter lead on various ground 
points. If you have more then a few ohms resistance on all the grounding 
points, then you have a bad primary ground.

If your ground is good and the charging system is working (electrical 
system is at approximately 14 volts while running), then you might have 
something draining the battery. A properly working system won't have this 
problem, so you need to do more troubleshooting. Try setting up the multi 
meter to measure the current across the battery. With the doors closed so 
the lights are off, you shouldn't be reading more then 40mA for a stock 
car. If you are, start pulling fuses until you find the circuit that's 
taking the majority of the load.

Good luck with the troubleshooting. It took me awhile, but now I can leave 
my car parked for a few weeks at a time and it will start right up.

Chris
VIN 4099

At 08:49 PM 10/3/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>I have somehting like this happening also and was meaning to post about
>it, but I am not sure where to start.
>
>Brand new battery, but when I step on the brakes (when car is not
>running) everything dims!  If my car sits for more then 1-2 days with
>the batteryhooked up, it does not start.  Battery is dead.  I can jump
>it and it kicks right up.
>
>After several hours, it also has issues starting.  It seems to have
>juice, but the starter turns for a second, and then clicks.
>
>I guess I should start with checking the ground?  (I removed the battery
>switch, but that did nothing).
>What if the ground is not the prob?  What could be draining my battery
>so fast?
>
>BTW:  It does start after being jumped and charging for a few min.






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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 04 Oct 2004 02:33:50 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Battery not charging



Careful how you say that - you don't measure current "across" the 
battery. If you set a meter to measure current and put it across the 
battery you'll see fireworks. You need to put the meter in series 
with the battery, i.e. between the battery and one of the power 
cables. 

Anyhow - I agree that a properly working car can sit for quite a 
while without running down the battery. I never disconnect mine 
except when parking the car for the winter, and it will occasionally 
sit for a month hooked up and I notice no problem with it being 
charged. 

On an unmodified car, the most likely cause of excessive current 
drain is the original lock module. It can fail in a way that it still 
works, but leaks current much more than it should. I have no 
experience with the aftermarket controllers. Other common faults are 
interior/door market lights that don't go off when the doors are 
closed.

Back to the original problem - the other posts are good guidance - 
start chasing all the ground connections, especially the one that 
uses one of the trailing arm attaching screws. 

Dave S

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Chris Almy <chris.almy_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> 
-> 
> If your ground is good and the charging system is working 
(electrical 
> system is at approximately 14 volts while running), then you might 
have 
> something draining the battery. A properly working system won't 
have this 
> problem, so you need to do more troubleshooting. 

Try setting up the multi 
> meter to measure the current across the battery. 

With the doors closed so 
> the lights are off, you shouldn't be reading more then 40mA for a 
stock 
> car. If you are, start pulling fuses until you find the circuit 
that's 
> taking the majority of the load.
> 
> Good luck with the troubleshooting. It took me awhile, but now I 
can leave 
> my car parked for a few weeks at a time and it will start right up.
> 
> Chris
> VIN 4099








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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 04 Oct 2004 02:29:18 -0000
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Dented Doors



I've posted pictures of what the dent looks like now (bottom picture).
It is all gone except for the few dings you can still see on the very
bottom part-here it is impossible to fix since you can't hammer from
behind. Best thing about this all was-it was free and only took a few
days! :) Dani B. #5003 

http://damngoodsite.net/5003damage.html








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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 04 Oct 2004 02:35:58 -0000
From: "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: #1 cylinder problems



This sounds like you have bad rings on this piston. The only way fuel
to get into oil is to get past the piston rings, and the oil is
blowing by the rings upwards causing your carbon and fouling.
Compression test will tell you for sure. -Dani B. #5003



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...>
wrote:
> 
> 
> Try swapping the ignition wire with another cylinder and see if it
> changes anything. A compression test and leak-down test will tell
you
> if it is anything mechanical.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, S E Ableman <s.ableman_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> > 
> > List
> >     I can put a new spark plug in #1 cylinder and it will carbon
up in 
> > 15 minutes at idle. All the others plugs are fine. I swapped
injectors 
> > with another cylinder and the problem stays in #1. If left alone
it 
> > fouls the plug and causes the unburned  gas to get into the
crankcase 
> > which dilutes the oil.  I'm thinking that this points to a valve
> problem 
> > or fuel distributor, any suggestions ?
> > 
> > Steve








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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 04 Oct 2004 02:49:08 -0000
From: "William" <wbowie2003_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: The DeLorean Community


I live in SC. I don't own D yet, but would be willing to help the 
guy with his restoration.  That's if he wants any extra help.

William
Columbia SC

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, tobyp_at_dml_k... wrote:
> 
> 
> Hello List -  We sometimes refer to this ecclectic bunch of 
DeLorean 
> enthusiasts and wannabe's as the "Delorean community".  The term 
was 
> proven again tonight to be a true description.  We got a call 
> tonight at 8:30 Seattle time from a gentleman in New Jersey who 
had 
> just bought a DeLorean today, and was going to drive it home to 
> South Carolina tomorrow.  





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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 03 Oct 2004 20:07:57 -0700
From: "Owen _at_dml_ Aerodrome" <owen_at_dml_aerodrome.us>
Subject: Re: Battery not charging


Check to make sure your door lights (on both sides) actually do turn off when the door closes.  My car's previous owner told me that he once was afflicted with the infamous battery drain and after some investigation, he discovered the right-side door light switch broken -- it wasn't breaking the circuit when the door closed.

Regards,
Owen





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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 03 Oct 2004 20:17:57 -0700
From: "Owen _at_dml_ Aerodrome" <owen_at_dml_aerodrome.us>
Subject: How do you clean your wheels rims?


Thought I'd see what the collective list wisdom is on cleaning the "turbine" wheels.  I haven't found a toothbrush narrow enough to get in between the spokes.

On an unrelated note, is there a better way to dig through the archives other than with the Yahoo interface?  I can't seem to get it to search more than a few hundred messages at a time, which is rather useless.

Best regards, and thanks in advance for any tips!

-Owen

VIN 10470 "1 21 GW"





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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 04 Oct 2004 03:56:38 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Archive (was How do you clean ..)


The older (up thru 2001) archives are at www.dmcnews.com. I have 
everything after that (multiple copies and backups) stored but 
haven't bothered to upload it to the site because its a huge amount 
of work to catalog and set up the links. I see a request like this 
about once a year so it doesn't seem to be a big deal. 

You'll notice that even though the archives are old, technical
info on the car has not really changed much since  then. The same
stuff still goes wrong. 

Dave S


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Owen _at_dml_ Aerodrome" <owen_at_dml_a...> wrote:
>> 
> On an unrelated note, is there a better way to dig through the 
archives other than with the Yahoo interface?  I can't seem to get it 
to search more than a few hundred messages at a time, which is rather 
useless.









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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 04 Oct 2004 04:45:53 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: How do you clean your wheels rims?



You get your favorite wheel cleaner and an old toothbrush. Grind it on
both sides to a taper and it works for a while. BTW you are supposed
to use a new toothbrush every 6 months so if you have a family you
should have a good supply of old toothbrushes, enough to keep your
wheels clean! Bottle type brushes have a metal spine so I don't like
them, they could scratch the paint. The first time you clean the rims
it takes a lot of work but it is easier to keep them clean then to do
the initial cleaning. The front ones get the dirtiest from the brake
dust. When I clean my rims I find it a lot easier to take them off the
car and lay it on the driveway. Always use a tire valve cap on the
tire valves. It keeps the dirt and moisture out of the tire valve.
Don't forget to clean and check the spare. When I have the tires off I
also inspect for metal and glass in the treads, bulges and
delaminations, tread wear, etc. Also a good time to inspect the
suspension, brakes, and grease the front end.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

Technical info on Deloreans AND helpful hints on dental hygiene.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Owen _at_dml_ Aerodrome" <owen_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> 
> Thought I'd see what the collective list wisdom is on cleaning the
"turbine" wheels.  I haven't found a toothbrush narrow enough to get
in between the spokes.
> 
> On an unrelated note, is there a better way to dig through the
archives other than with the Yahoo interface?  I can't seem to get it
to search more than a few hundred messages at a time, which is rather
useless.
> 
> Best regards, and thanks in advance for any tips!
> 
> -Owen
> 
> VIN 10470 "1 21 GW"








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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 04 Oct 2004 06:04:12 -0000
From: "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_myrealbox.com>
Subject: Re: Adjusting the throttle cable



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> I recently checked my full-throttle switch situation to discover that
> my throttle spool is not rotating completely when the accellerator
> pedal is completely depressed.  This leads me to believe I haven't
> actually fully opened the throttle on my '81 automatic.
> 
> Looking at my accellerator pedal, the stop screw, although sticking
> out quite a bit, already allows the cable to go back into it's outer
> tube as far as possible, so it doesn't look like I have room for
> adjustment there.

I was looking again at my accelerator pedal, and noticed it has a bend
in the upper arm, which may explain the lack of travel on my throttle...  

Can anyone with an automatic, or a vendor with the part please check
out the photo in the #2894 folder and let me know what you think?

Thanks
--Greg
#2894








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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 04 Oct 2004 06:43:14 -0000
From: "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_myrealbox.com>
Subject: Re: Archive (was How do you clean ..)



There was a way, until recently...  Google's search-this-site feature,
and adding "delorean" to your query would effectively search this
forum.  However, something did change recently, and I get very few
hits anymore, on content I know exists.  I've recently had to hit
"Next" on the built-in searches quite often.  :-(  Yahoo's main search
doesn't seem to be aware of their Groups content...  Anyone know of
some advanced / hidden Yahoo search for this purpose?

--Greg

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> 
> The older (up thru 2001) archives are at www.dmcnews.com. I have 
> everything after that (multiple copies and backups) stored but 
> haven't bothered to upload it to the site because its a huge amount 
> of work to catalog and set up the links. I see a request like this 
> about once a year so it doesn't seem to be a big deal. 
> 
> You'll notice that even though the archives are old, technical
> info on the car has not really changed much since  then. The same
> stuff still goes wrong. 
> 
> Dave S
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Owen _at_dml_ Aerodrome" <owen_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> >> 
> > On an unrelated note, is there a better way to dig through the 
> archives other than with the Yahoo interface?  I can't seem to get it 
> to search more than a few hundred messages at a time, which is rather 
> useless.








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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 4 Oct 2004 05:31:01 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: no heat! (and no defrost!)


Peter, I would still suspect the heater core valve assembly. It may be
stopped up.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/heater-conbtrol-valve-kit.
jpg





-----Original Message-----
From: Cameron, Peter [mailto:cameron_at_dml_bnl.gov]
Sent: Sunday, October 03, 2004 12:14 PM
To: 'dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com'
Cc: Cameron, Peter
Subject: [DML] no heat! (and no defrost!)


> I recently bought a low mileage (16000), well cared for delorean automatic.
> Delighted with the car. I'm doing all the little things to bring it into the
> condition needed for everyday driving.
> 
> Heater doesn't work. A/C is fine, quite strong. Checked heater flap cable -
> it's OK, or at least when I look under dashboard on passenger side, I can
> see that it rotates the shaft for the heater flap on the heater box. Heater
> water valve (in the 'valley of death' back there in front of the intake
> manifold) cycles properly when going to and from max A/C setting as
> determined by visual inspection, so I assume it is sending hot water to the
> radiator core. All pneumatic flaps in the heater box seem to be working
> properly, heater mode switch checks out OK. But no heat! Please, any
> suggestions on what to do next?





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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 04 Oct 2004 07:14:18 -0700
From: "Owen _at_dml_ Aerodrome" <owen_at_dml_aerodrome.us>
Subject: Re: Battery not charging


Kevin Abato wrote:
> 
> Brand new battery, but when I step on the brakes (when car is not
> running) everything dims!  If my car sits for more then 1-2 days with
> the batteryhooked up, it does not start.  Battery is dead.  I can jump
> it and it kicks right up.

Also worth pointing out is that "brand new battery" is not equivalent to "fully charged battery".  Whenever you buy a good battery, give it a good charging -- ideally leave it hooked to a trickle charger for 24 hours.  The store that sold the battery should have charged the battery after filling it, but you never can be sure how well they did it, or how long it's been sitting since then.

Also, once you've run your battery down a few times, it's anything but new.  Running a lead-acid battery flat is one of the most effective ways of ruining it.

Regards,
Owen





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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 04 Oct 2004 13:44:37 -0000
From: "anbrahaesl" <anders_at_dml_smartfilm.se>
Subject: Factory painted Ds



Hi, I just responed to an add I saw on a swedish site. A guy is selling a Delorean in 
original condition, he sais. Except the little detail I protested against - it's red!

But the fellow is claiming that the car is one of 240 factory painted cars! Does anyone 
know anything about this? As far as I know the cars was painted after the factory had 
closed.

Anders    








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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 4 Oct 2004 07:55:26 -0700
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayfw_at_dml_charter.net>
Subject: Re: Re: How do you clean your wheels rims?


I have used a chemical wheel cleaner made for that type of surface, that I
get from Schucks.   You spray it on and leave it for 30 seconds and hose it
off.  For regular cleaning it doesn't get very dirty.   I also sometimes use
my pressure washer, which really peels the grime off quickly and set the
pressure pretty low.
I have been using these methods for over 8 years and the wheels always
sparkle.  People often comment and ask how I get all those little grooves so
clean.
Murray
Vin: 05962
Lic:  DMC-XII






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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 4 Oct 2004 09:59:35 -0500
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Factory painted Ds


None were painted. You could get the car in any finish you wanted as 
long as stainless steel was the finish you picked... ha ha

Sounds almost like a quote from Henry Ford, "any color as long as it is 
black!".

Mark V




On Monday, October 4, 2004, at 08:44  AM, anbrahaesl wrote:

>
>
>
> Hi, I just responed to an add I saw on a swedish site. A guy is 
> selling a Delorean in
> original condition, he sais. Except the little detail I protested 
> against - it's red!
>
> But the fellow is claiming that the car is one of 240 factory painted 
> cars! Does anyone
> know anything about this? As far as I know the cars was painted after 
> the factory had
> closed.
>
> Anders





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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 04 Oct 2004 15:02:54 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: #1 cylinder problems



"Blowby" goes the other way -- from the cylinders into the crankcase.
Is what causes oil to get pushed backwards into the air filter when a
PCV valve is stopped up (intake suction also contributes).

Atomized fuel will indeed coalesce in a dead cylinder and run down the
walls. Rings are not tight enough to hold a low viscosity substance
like gasoline. Plus they are not solid the entire way around (are gaps
in each one).

Didn't steve say the plugs were carbon fouled, not oil fouled? Even if
they were oil fouled, problem would most likely be disintegrated valve
seals, not rings.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dani B" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> 
> 
> This sounds like you have bad rings on this piston. The only way fuel
> to get into oil is to get past the piston rings, and the oil is
> blowing by the rings upwards causing your carbon and fouling.
> Compression test will tell you for sure. -Dani B. #5003
> 









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Message: 22
Date: Mon, 4 Oct 2004 10:05:48 -0500
From: Warren Turkal <wt_at_dml_midsouth.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Factory painted Ds


On Monday 04 October 2004 08:44 am, anbrahaesl wrote:
> Hi, I just responed to an add I saw on a swedish site. A guy is selling a
> Delorean in original condition, he sais. Except the little detail I
> protested against - it's red!
>
> But the fellow is claiming that the car is one of 240 factory painted cars!
> Does anyone know anything about this? As far as I know the cars was painted
> after the factory had closed.

To my knowledge, cars were only painted after they left the factory. Mainly, 
the dealers would paint them.

wt
-- 
Warren Turkal
President, GOLUM, Inc. 501(c)3
http://www.golum.org/





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Message: 23
Date: Mon, 04 Oct 2004 14:54:32 -0000
From: "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: no heat! (and no defrost!)



That was probably me.  One of my pipe going into the heater core (the 
ones next to the fuel tank) was totally blocked with crap.  In fact, 
the fluid that ran out of the core looked new which tells me there 
was no circulation.

I was in the process of flushing the system and replacing the 
radiator and decided to take a look at the heater problem while I was 
at it.

I ended up using a wire hanger to clear the pipe.  Plenty of heat now.

Johnny
5518
> 
> 
> Peter - I looked briefly for a post on this very subject, but was 
> not able to find it.  Another owner had a similar experience, and 
he 
> found that the hoses were completely clogged with some form of 
> mineral or other deposits.  He was able to physically clear out the 
> lines, and his heater started producing heat just fine.  A good 
> system flush was also in order.
> 
> Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
> DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
> www.delorean-parts.com
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Cameron, Peter" <cameron_at_dml_b...> 
> wrote:
> > 
> > I recently bought a low mileage (16000), well cared for delorean 
> automatic. Delighted with the car. I'm doing all the little things 
> to bring it into the condition needed for everyday driving. 
> > 
> > Heater doesn't work.  All pneumatic flaps in the heater box seem 
> to be working properly, heater mode switch checks out OK. But no 
> heat! Please, any suggestions on what to do next?








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Message: 24
Date: Mon, 04 Oct 2004 15:42:57 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Factory painted Ds



To my knowledge there is NO SUCH THING AS A FACTORY-PAINTED CAR!!!
It is true that the factory was experimenting with painting the S/S.
There was a test panel that was in the wharehouse in Ohio that had
different color paint on it. DMC even had a procedure that was given
out to paint the S/S. It is also said that DMC was planning to offer a
painted panel kit that you could have installed when you wanted to
change the color of your car. You would get credit for your old panels
and drive out the same day with a different colored car! That said
there were many Deloreans that got painted in the 80's by dealerships
trying to move out the "dead" inventory. They thought by painting them
the public would be more inclined to buy them. The other way Deloreans
got painted is if they had any body damage. In the early 80's body
shops couldn't get panels so they would use body filler and talked the
owner into painting the whole car to cover it up. The problem here is
the S/S alloy used on Deloreans is non-magnetic so you cannot use a
magnet to see if any of the panels are repaired with "bondo". If you
buy a painted car it could be expensive to remove the paint. In any
case the car would have to be regrained. Part of the process to paint
the car involved using an orbital sander to prepare the surface so it
will be all scratched up under the paint even if there is no filler.
If you buy a painted Delorean you should figure leaving it painted.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "anbrahaesl" <anders_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi, I just responed to an add I saw on a swedish site. A guy is
selling a Delorean in 
> original condition, he sais. Except the little detail I protested
against - it's red!
> 
> But the fellow is claiming that the car is one of 240 factory
painted cars! Does anyone 
> know anything about this? As far as I know the cars was painted after 








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Message: 25
Date: Mon, 4 Oct 2004 10:59:15 -0500
From: "Jason" <rowejj_at_dml_tds.net>
Subject: Re: How do you clean your wheels rims?


         A small sponge head type paintbrush works pretty good.

                                  Jason #5903


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Owen _at_dml_ Aerodrome" <owen_at_dml_aerodrome.us>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 03, 2004 10:17 PM
Subject: [DML] How do you clean your wheels rims?


>
>
> Thought I'd see what the collective list wisdom is on cleaning the
"turbine" wheels.  I haven't found a toothbrush narrow enough to get in
between the spokes.
>
> On an unrelated note, is there a better way to dig through the archives
other than with the Yahoo interface?  I can't seem to get it to search more
than a few hundred messages at a time, which is rather useless.
>
> Best regards, and thanks in advance for any tips!
>
> -Owen
>
> VIN 10470 "1 21 GW"





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