From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2259
Date: Tuesday, October 05, 2004 4:45 AM


There are 19 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Factory painted Ds
From: jvdmc12_at_dml_aol.com

2. Re: no heat! (and no defrost!)
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

3. Re: And for my next trick.....
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>

4. No Factory painted Ds
From: deloreanss_at_dml_aol.com

5. Re: Re: How do you clean your wheels rims?
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

6. RE: Re: Factory painted Ds
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

7. exhaust
From: "andy" <andydandy777_at_dml_aol.com>

8. Partial Lighting?
From: "John Rydholm" <ebondefender_at_dml_yahoo.com>

9. Radio Upgrade
From: "John Rydholm" <ebondefender_at_dml_yahoo.com>

10. Clutch cylinders
From: "Joshua Weader" <weader_at_dml_moocow.org>

11. Re: Door Launchers
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>

12. Re: Clutch cylinders
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

13. RE: Re: no heat! (and no defrost!)
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

14. Re: Radio Upgrade
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

15. Re: Clutch cylinders
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

16. Re: Re: How do you clean your wheels rims?
From: "delorean3502" <delorean_at_dml_charter.net>

17. Re: Re: How do you clean your wheels rims?
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

18. Re: Radio Upgrade
From: "Robert J. Peek" <robert.peek_at_dml_comcast.net>

19. Left front fender
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 04 Oct 2004 12:31:55 -0400
From: jvdmc12_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Factory painted Ds


Many dealerships would paint their cars before putting them out on lots, as a way to boost sales and distinguish them. He could be confused to whatever the dealer-ship fed him at the time of purchase to make him feel like what he bought is worth more then it is





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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 04 Oct 2004 16:20:45 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: no heat! (and no defrost!)



I ran into something similar to this in my new engine. Cooling system
was packed with a Cosmoline like product (but granular, like caviar,
not smooth like Crisco). Was packed solid. Dried out too. I dug out as
much as possible, and erroneously thought the remainder would be water
soluble. Ended up overheating on my inagural test drive due to no
water circulation.

Like you, I am now clear (and in this instance cool).

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> 
> 
> That was probably me.  One of my pipe going into the heater core (the 
> ones next to the fuel tank) was totally blocked with crap.  In fact, 
> the fluid that ran out of the core looked new which tells me there 
> was no circulation.
> 
> I was in the process of flushing the system and replacing the 
> radiator and decided to take a look at the heater problem while I was 
> at it.
> 
> I ended up using a wire hanger to clear the pipe.  Plenty of heat now.
> 
> Johnny
> 5518









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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 04 Oct 2004 16:36:22 -0000
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>
Subject: Re: And for my next trick.....



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> 
> That one's easy - wait for one of them to fail, then yank the trans. 
> A bad pilot or TO bearing will give you tons of notice (i.e. noise) 
> before it fails. 
> 
> Honestly - I've never seen one of these go bad before the car needed 
> a clutch anyway (at least on a DeLorean - don't get me started on old 
> Fords). 

Mine did. ~50k miles on the original clutch. TO bearing started making
noise one day. Clutch was still good but both cylinders were leaky and
I still had the plastic line. It shifted fine under about 4k rpm,
anything higher between 1st and 2nd and I got a little grinding due to
incomplete clutch release I assume. Ignoring the TO bearing, I could
have replaced the cylinders & line and gone another 6-12 months of
daily driving on that clutch. But then, I don't abuse the car and
neither did the original owner.

Anyway, I replaced it all last month. It's nice to have such a big job
out of the way.

-Ryan








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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 4 Oct 2004 13:16:25 EDT
From: deloreanss_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: No Factory painted Ds


Hey, As the owner of a painted DeLorean, this particular subject was of great 
interest to me after I bought my car. The owner from whom I bought my car 
told me a nice story like that as well, "there were only 5 painted DeLoreans to 
leave the factory as prototypes." Well, needless to say I am wiser now. I have 
done lots of research on this, Dave covered most of the good stuff in his 
post, but I will tell you some more. I have several primary resources, guys who 
worked at the factory, in management, etc., who will go on record that there 
were no cars painted at that factory. There were no facilities to paint cars at 
the factory. No cars left on boats for the US painted from the factory. That 
basically covers every step in the process. That said, there was in the works a 
contract with DuPont to develop a special formula Imron-type primer that would 
etch and adhere to the stainless surface. In 1983 the contract was dead. No 
paint was ever sold by DuPont to the DeLorean corporation. I had heard rumors 
that another option in the works was a sort of dye or glaze that could be 
applied to the stainless giving it color along with the grain, much like the old 
aluminum cups from the 60's. I have not been able to unearth any tangible 
evidence of this rumor. Here's a good way to determine whether a D was indeed some 
type of factory test, does it have a decal indicating such? Unfortunately that 
is probably not going to be the case. Fortunately for me, I was able to do a 
paper trail on my car back to the Texas dealer that sold the car, and I was 
able to find documentation stating that my car had been painted in '82 at the 
dealership. The title from 82 indicates as such. The paint on my car is 22 years 
old, and shows its age in places, but for the most part looks great attesting 
to the quality of the dealer job. All of the inside edges, jambs, sills are 
painted red. The point of all of this, there were no cars that left North 
Ireland any color except for stainless, except for those 200 or so that are buried 
in the Utah desert, the ones that were built in Canada, hehe. 

John Weaver
RED DMC #10527
MidSouth DMC
www.msdmc.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 04 Oct 2004 12:24:03 -0500
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: How do you clean your wheels rims?


I have the chromed rims, which I think might be easier to clean than the 
painted rims.
I like to spray degreaser on the rims like "Greased Lightning" which works 
fantastic however
I noticed that these cleaners will suck all the grease out of the tires and 
turn them ashy
and white, or brown....then you have to put on a lot of gels to get the 
tires shiny again.
Most of the tire foams will work but you need to do it over and over again 
to get the tires
to look black again.
So I found that the "rim cleaners" that they sell at Wal-Mart that are made 
for cleaning
chrome and painted rims are the best because they seem to clean the metal 
but not
suck the juice out of the tires.
I use a long handle soft bristle brush, first I soap the whole car up and 
scrub it with the
brush, but I keep a separete brush for the rims only because they are extra 
dirty and greasy.
Lately I have been using that "Mr. Clean" soap sprayer system they sell at 
Wal-Mart for $20.00
The sectret to it is that is uses a big water filter cartridge that prevents 
spots from forming
and it really does work.
I wash the car about 3 times a week or so, just a quick rinse.
However when I need to detail it I will use Windex and paper towels and hand 
wipe the
entire car down and it will shine line new.
As long as you keep washing all the time and don't let the grime build up it 
is easy to keep
clean. If you go for a while without cleaning it the grain of the steel will 
become filled with
little black grime and make the car dull and grey.
Once it stains you need to use the abrasive methods to get the shine back.
I will use Greased Lightning or other metal cleaners when I need to on the 
skin.

...but back to the rims, just use a soft brush after letting them soak with 
RIM CLEANER
and then use some TIRE FOAM afterwards to let the tires soak in what they 
were robbed.
- VB




>From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayfw_at_dml_charter.net>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
>Subject: Re: [DML] Re: How do you clean your wheels rims?
>Date: Mon, 4 Oct 2004 07:55:26 -0700
>
>
>
>I have used a chemical wheel cleaner made for that type of surface, that I
>get from Schucks.   You spray it on and leave it for 30 seconds and hose it
>off.  For regular cleaning it doesn't get very dirty.   I also sometimes 
>use
>my pressure washer, which really peels the grime off quickly and set the
>pressure pretty low.
>I have been using these methods for over 8 years and the wheels always
>sparkle.  People often comment and ask how I get all those little grooves 
>so
>clean.
>Murray
>Vin: 05962
>Lic:  DMC-XII





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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 04 Oct 2004 12:25:45 -0500
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Factory painted Ds


...let's not confuse "factory" painted cars with "dealer" painted cars.
There were "new" cars painted and sold as new that were painted.
- VB


>From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Re: Factory painted Ds
>Date: Mon, 04 Oct 2004 15:42:57 -0000
>
>
>
>
>To my knowledge there is NO SUCH THING AS A FACTORY-PAINTED CAR!!!
>It is true that the factory was experimenting with painting the S/S.
>There was a test panel that was in the wharehouse in Ohio that had
>different color paint on it. DMC even had a procedure that was given
>out to paint the S/S. It is also said that DMC was planning to offer a
>painted panel kit that you could have installed when you wanted to
>change the color of your car. You would get credit for your old panels
>and drive out the same day with a different colored car! That said
>there were many Deloreans that got painted in the 80's by dealerships
>trying to move out the "dead" inventory. They thought by painting them
>the public would be more inclined to buy them. The other way Deloreans
>got painted is if they had any body damage. In the early 80's body
>shops couldn't get panels so they would use body filler and talked the
>owner into painting the whole car to cover it up. The problem here is
>the S/S alloy used on Deloreans is non-magnetic so you cannot use a
>magnet to see if any of the panels are repaired with "bondo". If you
>buy a painted car it could be expensive to remove the paint. In any
>case the car would have to be regrained. Part of the process to paint
>the car involved using an orbital sander to prepare the surface so it
>will be all scratched up under the paint even if there is no filler.
>If you buy a painted Delorean you should figure leaving it painted.
>David Teitelbaum
>vin 10757

[long quote trimmed by moderator]





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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 04 Oct 2004 17:27:29 -0000
From: "andy" <andydandy777_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: exhaust



FYI, the stainless steel exhaust system from Stainless steel exhaust 
in England is price at $1,200 American dollars plus about $400 
shipping. They no longer sell this with the catylist converters 
because of the heat build up.








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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 04 Oct 2004 17:46:24 -0000
From: "John Rydholm" <ebondefender_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Partial Lighting?



Hey all,
I've got a weird little problem with my DeLorean. For some reason My 
interior (cockpit) light only lights up when I tilt it, and the back 
interior as well as door lamps will not light up at all. My reverse 
lights also seem to be out I'm told. All the exterior lights and 
blinkers work just fine, though. I recently replaced the entire bulb 
and circuit board set in the rear, as well as all 4 headlamps. -I got 
the stock headlamps from DMC and the tail set from pjgrady.com. I 
checked all of my fuses and they are all in working order. Could this 
be some sort of internal wiring problem? Anyone have a hypothesis? I 
appreciate it because I'm no electrician! ^_^ Thanks all.
---John








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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 04 Oct 2004 17:50:38 -0000
From: "John Rydholm" <ebondefender_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Radio Upgrade



I found my power antenna doesn't like to raise or lower and I'm 
pretty sure it's broken. But since I wanted to upgrade the radio 
someday anyway, what do you all think is a good type to put in the 
DMC-12? (i.e. what will FIT correctly) And is it possible to put an 
amp in the car? That luggage compartment is really small! My main 
concern is just to have a working radio. Maybe I should put an 8-
track in there lol (I still think the car rules.)

PS: I can't seem to get my CD walkman to work with the lighter jack 
for some odd reason. But the thing lights stuff on fire just fine-
useless, as I don't smoke.








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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 4 Oct 2004 14:55:51 -0500
From: "Joshua Weader" <weader_at_dml_moocow.org>
Subject: Clutch cylinders



I'm having problems with my (new) clutch slave.  I replaced the slave cylinder
and the rigid part of the clutch line.  The bleeder screw had broken off, but
the clutch system was functional at the time, so I did not replace the master
cylinder.  I bled the system with fresh fluid, took the car for a test drive,
and everything seemed ok.  Two days later, all the fluid had drained out of
the system.  I was not able to determine whether it had leaked out of an end
of the clutch line, or out of one of the cylinders.

1.  Was I ok to just change out the slave, or did I ruin the new slave by
doing just one, and I now have to replace both of them?

2.  Someone mentioned a while ago that bleeding an existing system can damage
the internal seals in the slave cylinder by forcing internal corrosion through
the seals.  Is this true, and if it is, how can anyone ever bleed their system?

Thanks,

--Josh
#5553

---------------------------------------------
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty: soap,
ballot, jury, and ammo.  Please use in that order." - Ed Howdershelt






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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 04 Oct 2004 17:28:33 -0000
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>
Subject: Re: Door Launchers



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Tom Watkins" <dmctom_at_dml_e...> wrote:
> 
> If you go to Bob's site it says that the launch system is $458.00.  
> Unless you have information to the contrary I'm not sure where you 
> get $600-800.   

Then the price has changed or my memory is flawed. When I was looking
at it back in April, I recall it being quite a bit higher. It's nice
that the price has dropped, though - that makes it only $897.00 when
you include the required Lockzilla and LockZilla Remote.

> Yes, you do need the remote  lock system for it to be integrated.    
> I have no doubt that Toby has many satisfied customers but I feel 
> it's inappropriate to suggest that being tied into the Zilla line is
> somehow a negative thing.

I didn't suggest that it was a negative thing, only that it was a
consideration. 

Personally, this is what I appreciate about Toby: When I told him I
wanted a set of door launchers but didn't need the remote control
system (I'd planned to use the AUX outputs on my own system), he
gladly sold me only the parts I needed. Bob's response to the same
question about his launchers was, and I quote, "It will only be
plug-in compatible with our own 2 way paging alarm system."

> While at P.F. it was suggested to me that I pull all my Zilla stuff 
> out of my car and replace it with Toby's products.   

Now that's just silly. There's nothing wrong with Bob's stuff. I find
the prices to be high and the tie-ins somewhat unethical, but if you
already own the stuff then those aren't issues to you. Suggesting you
should yank out a perfectly good system and replace it with another
doesn't make any sense.

> There are many people out there with Zilla products in their cars.  
> Adding Zilla Launcher system at this point will be far easier than 
> to start from scratch.    As for delays...yeah we all have life 
> stuff that gets in the way of things.   I'm willing to wait to get 
> the Zilla launchers. 

FYI, Toby's launchers will integrate just fine with your Zilla stuff.
You wouldn't have to start from scratch. And if you already have the
Zilla remote system, then you can add door launchers today for $129.95
(http://delorean-parts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=DPNW&Product_Code=K2400DP&Category_Code=9401).

I'm not trying to convince you - I really don't care whose kit you buy
- just making sure you know the facts. If you'd rather wait for the
Zilla launchers that's fine. It's a personal decision and I can't see
why anyone would fault you for choosing one over the other. 

> Just remember that there are many satified Zilla product owners, 
> such as myself, who are don't have a problem with being "tied" into 
> the Zilla line and may take your comments as a slam against their 
> decision to continue to be loyal to the Zilla line.   I have no 
> doubt you didn't mean it this way but the evaluation of your 
> intended meaning comes from the person reading it.

I didn't mean it that way at all, and honestly I try not to concern
myself with how people take my comments. I'm not much for political
correctness. If Zilla owners feel I'm slamming their products, that's
unfortunate. I won't walk on glass around people and waste time
carefully choosing words and phrases so as to never offend anybody -
people choose to be offended and someone will always make that choice
no matter what I say. So I'll just be my normal blunt self and let the
chips fall where they may.

-Ryan








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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 4 Oct 2004 15:43:13 -0500
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Clutch cylinders


I was told replace the clutch master cylinder at the same time as the 
clutch slave cylinder since they both have the same amount of usage and 
if one is shot the other will soon follow, this is for all cars not 
just the Delorean.


Mark V



On Monday, October 4, 2004, at 02:55  PM, Joshua Weader wrote:

>
>
>
> I'm having problems with my (new) clutch slave.  I replaced the slave 
> cylinder
> and the rigid part of the clutch line.  The bleeder screw had broken 
> off, but
> the clutch system was functional at the time, so I did not replace the 
> master
> cylinder.  I bled the system with fresh fluid, took the car for a test 
> drive,
> and everything seemed ok.  Two days later, all the fluid had drained 
> out of
> the system.  I was not able to determine whether it had leaked out of 
> an end
> of the clutch line, or out of one of the cylinders.
>
> 1.  Was I ok to just change out the slave, or did I ruin the new slave 
> by
> doing just one, and I now have to replace both of them?
>
> 2.  Someone mentioned a while ago that bleeding an existing system can 
> damage
> the internal seals in the slave cylinder by forcing internal corrosion 
> through
> the seals.  Is this true, and if it is, how can anyone ever bleed 
> their system?
>
> Thanks,
>
> --Josh
> #5553





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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 4 Oct 2004 17:28:13 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Re: no heat! (and no defrost!)


Johnny, Now the question is where did all that stuff go and what does the
rest of the system look like. I would pressure rinse out the system while
your there.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com





-----Original Message-----
From: thebrave65 [mailto:johnnysher1_at_dml_cox.net]
Sent: Monday, October 04, 2004 8:55 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: no heat! (and no defrost!)





> That was probably me.  One of my pipe going into the heater core (the
> ones next to the fuel tank) was totally blocked with crap.  In fact,
> the fluid that ran out of the core looked new which tells me there
> was no circulation.
> 
> I was in the process of flushing the system and replacing the
> radiator and decided to take a look at the heater problem while I was
> at it.
> 
> I ended up using a wire hanger to clear the pipe.  Plenty of heat now.
> 
> Johnny
> 5518





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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 04 Oct 2004 22:39:22 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Radio Upgrade



The lighter is slightly larger than the normal American lighter 
outlet. You can get a small adapter ring at cellphone places (maybe 
Radio Shack) to make it fit tighter and keep contact. Sort of. You 
might be better off mounting another aftermarket outlet hidden under 
the dash. 

There are no longer very many aftermarket radios that will fit in the 
space in the dash unless you cut the dash. I believe DMC Houston 
still sells a replacment dash that's already cut, or you can just cut 
the one you have. I'm sure others will fill in more here - I'm not 
much of a stereo nut. 

Lots of people have put amps in the car. Some in that compartment you 
mention, some on the back deck, some in the trunk. Depends on how 
loud you need it. You'll find that the original speakers are the 
biggest limitation of the system as installed in the car.  

Dave S. <still driving around with a Genuine Craig Radio and 4x10 
speakers.....

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Rydholm" <ebondefender_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:
> 
> 
> I found my power antenna doesn't like to raise or lower and I'm 
> pretty sure it's broken. But since I wanted to upgrade the radio 
> someday anyway, what do you all think is a good type to put in the 
> DMC-12? (i.e. what will FIT correctly) And is it possible to put an 
> amp in the car? That luggage compartment is really small! My main 
> concern is just to have a working radio. Maybe I should put an 8-
> track in there lol (I still think the car rules.)
> 
> PS: I can't seem to get my CD walkman to work with the lighter jack 
> for some odd reason. But the thing lights stuff on fire just fine-
> useless, as I don't smoke.








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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 04 Oct 2004 21:04:49 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Clutch cylinders



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Joshua Weader" <weader_at_dml_m...> wrote:
<SNIP>
> 2.  Someone mentioned a while ago that bleeding an existing system 
can damage
> the internal seals in the slave cylinder by forcing internal 
corrosion through
> the seals.  Is this true, and if it is, how can anyone ever bleed 
their system?
<SNIP>

This deals with contaminated hydraulic fluid. I.e. if you've got 
original fluid in the system, or it has become contaminated by water, 
dirt, etc. Once you flush the old gunk out, and replace it with 
fresh, it will destroy the OLD, ORIGINAL rubber seals in the system.

I experienced this first hand with my car. The plastic clutch line 
was replaced, but the master and slave cylinders were left alone. The 
MC reservoir developed a BIG ASS LEAK soon after (granted it was 
already resleeved and "booger welded"), as my stained carpet can 
attest to. At 26K miles, the cluch was torn up. Replaced clutch, and 
the new one was torn up after about 2,500 miles. I then replaced the 
Master and Slave with the new clutch, and my clutch has been tight as 
a drum ever since, with nice, smooth shifting, even after almost 
30,000 miles have been added to it.

My philosophy, based on my personal experience, is when waking up 
derelict car* for road use again, you're gonna need to literally bite 
the bullet, and replace ALL of your hydraulic systems ASAP! Brake 
hydraulics are a bit different. Since they are not a intensely used, 
they will last a bit longer. But will eventually fail on you none the 
less.

Once you've got everything brand new installed, just flush the system 
every 2 years per the manual, and you'll have a reliable system that 
you can forget worring about. I definetly would not consider this a 
high worry item once you've done the initial work. And believe me, 
it's not all that bad.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"

*From what I have seen, there is a HUGH difference between a dormant, 
and a derelict car. And neither have a thing to do with cosmetics. 
Dormant is where someone puts the car away for the winder, and with 
minimal work, it becomes just as road worthy as the last time it was 
parked.

Derilect is a car that time forgot. Weather it was in "investment" 
that someone bought and subsequently parked, a car that they lost 
interest in, or even where someone died, and their widow just let the 
car sit next to the sprinklers for 12 or so years and till this day I 
still can't get the damn water stains off my driver's side mirror.

Dormant cars are already on their factory reccomended maintenance 
schedules, and should need only consumable parts. Derilect cars are 
quite driveable, but will have considerably more downtime, as their 
unmaintained components will wear out more rapidly, as all those 
missed maintenance sessions will catch up with a vengance.








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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 4 Oct 2004 16:38:27 -0700
From: "delorean3502" <delorean_at_dml_charter.net>
Subject: Re: Re: How do you clean your wheels rims?


Came across a good wheel cleaner last year, on TV, I am sure all have seen a 
add for a small steam cleaner showing a woman cleaning a stove top with one, 
with a little grease remover sprayed on first this small steam cleaner 
really doe's a job. It's small, only holds 16 oz. of water, had to promise 
the better half I would keep the shower stall clean to get one, but a small 
price to pay for clean wheels. Price about $100. Need any info on the name 
ask and will look it up on the box.
Lloyd #3502 







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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 4 Oct 2004 19:46:00 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: How do you clean your wheels rims?


I bought a brush at NAPA that is about 18" long, black plastic handle, blue 
brush.  it's for washing your car actually.  I use Eagle One A-Z All Wheel 
Cleaner.   Then i wet the brush, shake it out, and scrub the wheels really well.  
The bristles are long enough to get inside the vanes and it always does a good 
job as long as you don't go too long between washes.  I clean the wheels like 
this every time i wash my car (always by hand). Like David T said, once you 
get them super clean once, it is easy to keep them clean.  

Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 04 Oct 2004 20:01:23 -0700
From: "Robert J. Peek" <robert.peek_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Radio Upgrade


I installed an Eclipse EA3422 4/3/2 channel amp under the passenger 
seat. I mounted it to the floor. There is a switch which allows you to 
set it up eather as a 4 channel, 3 channel, or 2 channel amp. I have 
mine set up for 3 channel, running a 8" sub located behind the drivers 
seat and some speaker boxes located in the front floor. I beleve 
Delorean.com sells this type of speaker package.

John Rydholm wrote:

>
>I found my power antenna doesn't like to raise or lower and I'm 
>pretty sure it's broken. But since I wanted to upgrade the radio 
>someday anyway, what do you all think is a good type to put in the 
>DMC-12? (i.e. what will FIT correctly) And is it possible to put an 
>amp in the car? That luggage compartment is really small! My main 
>concern is just to have a working radio. Maybe I should put an 8-
>track in there lol (I still think the car rules.)
>
>PS: I can't seem to get my CD walkman to work with the lighter jack 
>for some odd reason. But the thing lights stuff on fire just fine-
>useless, as I don't smoke.





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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 4 Oct 2004 21:03:58 EDT
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Left front fender


I have one left front fender that is in perfect condtion if any one  needs it 
please contact me offline.  This is the last one I have
 
Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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