From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2262
Date: Wednesday, October 06, 2004 8:14 PM


There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Lockzilla or WingsAloft???
From: "Tom Watkins" <dmctom_at_dml_earthlink.net>

2. Upper Steering Joint Play.....Question.......
From: "Mike" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>

3. RE: losing power
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>

4. Re: Delorean Movie (Team America : World Police)
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

5. RE: losing power
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>

6. RE: engine vibrates
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>

7. Archive (I'm doing something about it)
From: "ryanpwright" <dmcnews_list_at_dml_ryanwright.com>

8. Re: #1 cylinder problems
From: "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade_at_dml_hotmail.com>

9. RE: losing power
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

10. Re: #1 cylinder problems
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

11. Re: losing power
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

12. Re: Wierd mechanical problems
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

13. Re: The last place you Looked - Side stripes
From: "James" <deloreandmcxii_at_dml_excite.com>

14. Re: Upper Steering Joint Play.....Question.......
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

15. Spymate...
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_fuse.net>

16. Early Injection Manifold Pic Uploaded
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

17. Re: Lockzilla or WingsAloft???
From: Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

18. Insurance
From: Jamie Hamlin <jamiepierce2000_at_dml_yahoo.com>

19. Re: Re: Radio Upgrade
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>

20. Re: Lockzilla or WingsAloft???
From: "ryanpwright" <dmcnews_list_at_dml_ryanwright.com>

21. Re: Lockzilla or WingsAloft???
From: "p12c16" <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com>

22. Funny sound behind dash?
From: "John Rydholm" <ebondefender_at_dml_yahoo.com>

23. Re: losing power
From: "Larry Donn" <lumpyd2003_at_dml_yahoo.com>

24. Re: losing power
From: "Larry Donn" <lumpyd2003_at_dml_yahoo.com>

25. RE: Re: Radio Upgrade
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>





Message: 1
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2004 07:11:41 -0400
From: "Tom Watkins" <dmctom_at_dml_earthlink.net>
Subject: Lockzilla or WingsAloft???


Your question will generate lots of different opinions.   There are only 2 vendors that offer these options as you noted.   Currently, the Wings-A-Loft system is the only door opening system available with the Zilla Door Launcher system still in process of going into production.

Toby offers many of the products you are looking for and has them available now.    I cannot vouch for the ease of installation as I do not have any of his products in my car.   The Zilla line is true plug-and-play.  I am not a sharp one when it comes to electronics and went with Zilla for ease of installation.  I'm sure Toby and others can give you more information and he seems to have good customer follow up and help with installing.

Some of this is a loyalty thing, some is a price difference, some is ease of installation, some is solenoids vs. actuators........ The factors are numerous regarding the two systems and is often a much debated subject.    Either way you go you will find 2 guys who are dedicated to the DeLorean product and have only the best interest of their customers in mind.

I have only Zilla in my car as I like the product and it was a snap to install.  I am waiting for the Zilla Door Launcher system to be produced and I will be quite honest with you that if Bob Zilla were to announce that his Door Launch system was not going to be produced I would buy Toby's kit.   I am loyal to the Zilla line but I would not slam the other guys product as it has many satisfied customers.  


Tom Watkins
dmctom_at_dml_earthlink.net
Why Wait? Move to EarthLink.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 06 Oct 2004 12:36:49 -0000
From: "Mike" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>
Subject: Upper Steering Joint Play.....Question.......



Hi All

Can anyone tell me just how much play there should be if any in the 
upper steering coloum joint... i can get over rough roads a rattle in 
the steering wheel and all i can put it down to is this joint...the 
rack, steering bush and lower knuckle seem fine... but the top one 
does move a little

Many thanks for your time

Mike
#2001
Yorkshire, UK








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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 06 Oct 2004 07:42:08 -0500
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: losing power


If the accumulator is actually leaking fuel, then it could affect power as a 
significant leak would drop system pressure. Do you smell raw fuel or see 
any signs of leaking?

-Joe Kuchan

>From: "Larry Donn" <lumpyd2003_at_dml_yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] losing power
>Date: Tue, 05 Oct 2004 20:33:54 -0000
>
>
>
>
>I have a 1981 (#5210) with about 10,300 miles. For the last couple
>months, the car has been looning alot of power. I'm pretty sure the
>accumulator needs to be replaced (starts fine cold, but not hot), but
>would this cause the car to loose power? Off the line, I need to play
>with the gas a bit to get it to go. I use only 93 octane and have
>used injector cleaner.

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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2004 05:42:17 -0700 (PDT)
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Delorean Movie (Team America : World Police)


Are there 2 stretched limos in the movie? Reason for asking is that in the
on-line trailer (http://www.teamamericamovie.com/) they show a white stretched
Lamborghini Countach. It is about 1/4 the way thru the trailer if you want to
drag the bar frame by frame.

If not, maybe the author of http://www.foxnews.com/story/0,2933,134467,00.html
just got the cars wrong since the doors are somewhat similar.

Shannon Y
16506

-------------------

   Date: Tue, 05 Oct 2004 15:28:17 -0000
   From: "A___" <bigpmdawnfan_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Delorean Movie

There is the new movie TEAM AMERICA : WORLD POLICE, which comes out any day now. 

In the movie, a stretch DeLorean is featured, but I believe it will just be a
small model stretch DeLorean, maybe something around a 1:18 scale size.





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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2004 08:44:13 -0400
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: RE: losing power


You probably have a vacuum leak. Check for a broken vacuum hose somewhere.
You probably have a cold start problem too, right?

Dave Sontos

-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Donn [mailto:lumpyd2003_at_dml_yahoo.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, October 05, 2004 4:34 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] losing power

I have a 1981 (#5210) with about 10,300 miles. For the last couple 
months, the car has been looning alot of power. I'm pretty sure the 
accumulator needs to be replaced (starts fine cold, but not hot), but 
would this cause the car to loose power? Off the line, I need to play 
with the gas a bit to get it to go. I use only 93 octane and have 
used injector cleaner. 






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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2004 08:55:39 -0400
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: RE: engine vibrates


Dave, if you consider this post as a serious problem then you need to
include a lot more information on the maintenance and condition of your
engine. If you're posting just to see how many emails you can get try a
different forum.

When was the last complete tuneup you did on the engine? (plugs, wires,
distributer cap, rotor) Have you changed the fuel filter lately. Has the gas
tank been opened since you bought the car? Have you tried running any
injector cleaner in the tank or replaced the injectors?

Dave Sontos

-----Original Message-----
From: painterdave72 [mailto:painterdave72_at_dml_yahoo.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, October 05, 2004 6:58 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] engine vibrates

My engine shakes in my car at idle.. does anyone else have this problem?? it

runs great other than the little bit of shaking at idle.. just wondering if 
something is wrong.. thanks. Dave..






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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 05 Oct 2004 22:52:11 -0000
From: "ryanpwright" <dmcnews_list_at_dml_ryanwright.com>
Subject: Archive (I'm doing something about it)



OK, I'm not the only one who has had problems searching this list and
finding archived items. It's always annoyed me but now that I know it
also annoys others, I've done something about it.

Behold the DMCNews Mailing List Archive:
http://www.ryanwright.com/dmcnews/

Beginning immediately, all new messages to this group will be
automatically archived there without my having to do a thing. They
will be sorted by month, then further sorted by thread, and the whole
darn thing will be fully searchable as soon as I get a proper search
engine online (give me a week or two - there aren't any messages in it
now, anyway).

This process is fully automated. Which means it should always work and
always be up to date - no waiting on me.

Enjoy...

-Ryan

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> 
> The older (up thru 2001) archives are at www.dmcnews.com. I have 
> everything after that (multiple copies and backups) stored but 
> haven't bothered to upload it to the site because its a huge amount 
> of work to catalog and set up the links. I see a request like this 
> about once a year so it doesn't seem to be a big deal. 
> 
> You'll notice that even though the archives are old, technical
> info on the car has not really changed much since  then. The same
> stuff still goes wrong. 
> 
> Dave S
> 










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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2004 09:05:43 -0400
From: "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: #1 cylinder problems


Any chance the distributor cap is burned or cracked.  I have see one cap in
the past (Dodge Dart) where a couple of the contacts were burned and the
remaining 6 were fine.  Car did not display the symptoms you have though.

Ed
10541


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "S E Ableman" <s.ableman_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 05, 2004 4:34 PM
Subject: [DML] #1 cylinder problems


>
>
> List,
>
>     I haven't had much time to work on the #1 cylinder problem. I did
> manage to remove the spark plug wire . That wasn't easy, and putting it
> back was worse. The wire checks good. It is 452 ohms  and 16" long ,
> made from Taylor 8mm silicon _at_dml_350 ohms per foot. I have a dc power
> supply that goes up to 32 volts. It showed  70 ma current  when hooked
> up tp the supply.  I twisted and pulled it as hard as I could and the
> current remained the same. So, the wire seems to be good unless it
> breaks down at high voltage. I'm going to look at it tonight in the dark
> to see if I can see any stray sparks flying around.





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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2004 08:42:32 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: losing power


Larry,
You could have a catalytic converter stopped up or the warm up regulator /
control pressure regulator going bad. You might also have low fuel pressure
due to a bad fuel filter or marginal pump.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com




-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Donn [mailto:lumpyd2003_at_dml_yahoo.com]
Sent: Tuesday, October 05, 2004 2:34 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] losing power





> I have a 1981 (#5210) with about 10,300 miles. For the last couple
> months, the car has been looning alot of power. I'm pretty sure the
> accumulator needs to be replaced (starts fine cold, but not hot), but
> would this cause the car to loose power? Off the line, I need to play
> with the gas a bit to get it to go. I use only 93 octane and have
> used injector cleaner.
> 
> Please help.
> 
> 
> Larry





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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 06 Oct 2004 14:27:10 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: #1 cylinder problems



The way you have tested the wire is OK but you still cannot rule out
that the insulation breaks down under high voltage. You will not be
able to see if the boot breaks down inside the spark plug well. A
better test is to switch the wire with another and see if the trouble
moves. If you twisted and pulled on the wire "as hard as you could"
you should now throw it away, you have broken the inner core. You
cannot use the injector port to check compression, it only goes behind
the intake valve, not into the combustion chamber. Get a compression
tester that CAN fit into the spark plug hole. If the plug "carbons up"
SOMETHING (oil or fuel) is getting on it!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, S E Ableman <s.ableman_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> 
> List,
> 
>     I haven't had much time to work on the #1 cylinder problem. I did 
> manage to remove the spark plug wire . That wasn't easy, and putting it 
> back was worse. The wire checks good. It is 452 ohms  and 16" long , 
> made from Taylor 8mm silicon _at_dml_350 ohms per foot. I have a dc power 
> supply that goes up to 32 volts. It showed  70 ma current  when 








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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 06 Oct 2004 14:38:55 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: losing power



Loss of power is a very general complaint and can have many causes.
Here is a short list of possabilities
Plugged fuel filter
bad ignition wires, cap, rotor, spark plugs
dead lambda system
dirty injectors
dirty air filter
vacuum leaks
bad ignition coil
dragging brakes
low compression in 1 or more cylinders
problem in the mechanical or vacuum advance
Generally when you have a problem like this if the car hasn't been
tuned-up in a long time you start with that. In the course of doing
the tune-up you generally come across the cause and fix it. I would
start by inspecting the insides of the fuel tank and all the internal
parts. The accumulater does not usually cause a loss of power but if
you know it's bad change it so you can rule it out as  possability. I
do not like using injector cleaner, gasoline comes with cleaners built in.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Larry Donn" <lumpyd2003_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> 
> I have a 1981 (#5210) with about 10,300 miles. For the last couple 
> months, the car has been looning alot of power. I'm pretty sure the 
> accumulator needs to be replaced (starts fine cold, but not hot), but 
> would this cause the car to loose power? Off the line, I need to play 
> with the gas a bit to get it to go. I use only 93 octane and have 
> used injector cleaner. 
> 
> Please help. 
> 
> 
> Larry








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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 06 Oct 2004 15:14:00 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Wierd mechanical problems



I have to assume you have an automatic transmission.
When you blew the hose and lost coolant you may have overheated the
motor and/or the transmission whcih could explain these symptoms.
Separate them into engine and transmission problems. For the trans I
would change the fluid and check the line pressure. When you pull the
pan and clean or replace the filter you will know if you "cooked" it.
For the motor I would try to figure out if, when it dies, you lose
fuel or spark and follow up from there. My first guess on the engine
dying would be an electrical problem, maybe a pick-up coil or a bad
connection. Since you say your "D" "wasn't in the best of shape" when
you bought it, I would dive into the fuel tank and inspect all the
parts in there.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "secret_jedi_guy"
<secret_jedi_guy_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Well here we go again.  I may post quite a few more of these so bare 
> with me.  When I bought my D' it wasn't in the best of shape. On 
> Monday of this week my heater hose burst and literally sprayed anti-
> freeze all over the place and emptied my coolant tank.  I have just 
> replaced all of the radiator and heater hoses (there were 6 
> including the one that burst).  I picked it up yesterday from the 
> shop and it ran fine for about 20 miles.  At the end of those 20 
> 








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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 06 Oct 2004 15:18:06 -0000
From: "James" <deloreandmcxii_at_dml_excite.com>
Subject: Re: The last place you Looked - Side stripes



I bought a set of stripes from thelastplaceyoulooked 2 years ago. 
Decent quality. I prefer the real thing. I bought a set of NOS 
stripes for only $40 bucks a few months ago... The place I found 
them still has a set of thin grey stripes for the same ridiculously 
low price - amoung many other NOS part that they are selling for the 
DEALER price published in the original parts manual.

Anyone interested can send me $359.99 via paypal, check, or money 
order - that seems to be the going mark-up rate for finding DMC 
parts these days, right Bob?

(In reality, email me, I'll have to dig up my info on them... it'll 
be free)

Dispite some people's insistance to the contrary- NOS stripes will 
stick perfectly fine. The set I bought was in the original box DMC 
used to send the kits to dealers... they were rolled up, so I left 
them under some phone books for a day. They remain firmly stuck to 
be car today. If you can arrange to have the fascias off the car, it 
will make it look a litte more profressionally installed at the area 
where stainless meets polyurethane. 
I'm not sure what they were made of, but they looked like metal tape 
on the back.

Last I heard DMC Houston gave thelastplaceyoulooked some guff over 
the use of the DMC lettering. So they stopped selling the DeLorean 
related stuff. I *THINK* DMCH actually bought tlpyl's remaining DMC-
stuff stock.

The repros from tlpyl were only $120... your only source now, 
unfortunately, looks to be VideoBob.

James LaLonde 004009








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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 06 Oct 2004 15:22:15 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Upper Steering Joint Play.....Question.......



There should be no perceptible play in the U-joints or the couplings.
Make sure the bolts that tighten the couplings to the steering column
and rack are tight. If the play is in the joints they should be
replaced. Inspect the tie rod ends and the ball joints, control arm
bushings, sway bar bushings and shocks too. A real qiuck and "dirty"
test is to move the car foward slowly and as you hit the brakes hard
have someone watch the front wheels from the side. They must not seem
to move back as you stop. If they move then something is loose/worn.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


-- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Mike" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_b...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi All
> 
> Can anyone tell me just how much play there should be if any in the 
> upper steering coloum joint... i can get over rough roads a rattle in 
> the steering wheel and all i can put it down to is this joint...the 
> rack, steering bush and lower knuckle seem fine... but the top one 
> does move a little
> 
> Many thanks for your time
> 
> Mike
> #2001
> Yorkshire, UK








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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 06 Oct 2004 11:44:53 -0400
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_fuse.net>
Subject: Spymate...


Sorry Mark...meant to post that e-mail I sent you to the list...

We did an article about "Spymate" in a past issue of DCS magazine.

BTW, our next issue is due out at the end of October...and so far it's 
looking awesome!  Articles by Claudia Wells and Bob Gale...and articles 
about Pigeon Forge, pilot 25, Project DeLorean, the gold cars and a 
whole lot more!  We've also included a very special DeLorean poster in 
this issue of the magazine.  Don't miss it!  It'll be our best yet.

Yours,
Josh







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Message: 16
Date: Wed, 06 Oct 2004 15:55:22 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Early Injection Manifold Pic Uploaded



I've uploaded a pic of the pre K Jetronic PRV manifold to #5939's
photo album. Lines to injectors #3 and #6 are clearly visible (note
that they're missing protective rubber sleeves too -- I've seen other
pics with DeLo style hoses). Lineage of later model centralized fuel
metering and distribution is obvious.

Note also location of the CPR on "passenger" valve cover. Full
throttle vacuum enrichment runs straight from it to the side of the
manifold, via a tee next to the PCV/oil spout (that's how pre 066
Series CPR's work). An aux air valve is visible in the same area as
later model idle speed motors.

Bill Robertson
#5939









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Message: 17
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2004 09:28:50 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Lockzilla or WingsAloft???


 
Not exactly, Chris.   The factory module *is* weak, but only when throwing current-heavy solenoids.  For less than $100, I put in Toby's door lock actuator kit.  I can't tell a difference from the solenoids in the way the system works, and I've been using the stock lock module with them.  I drive the car everyday and lock it everywhere I go.  It works perfectly.
 
I installed them just after Pigeon Forge, and I've put about 9,000 miles on the car since.
 
I should note though, that if your stock module is already damaged, you'll need to do as Chris suggests (buy Lockzilla, repair the old module, buy a NOS module, etc.).  Mine was fine as I unhooked it when I bought the car.
 
Jake Kamphoefner
1063

Chris Almy <chris.almy_at_dml_comcast.net> wrote:


> You should take note that the DPNW option uses the stock door lock 
> controller. This device has several known problems and should not be used. 
> You can either rebuild it using the directions from the Tech Section or 
> purchase a LockZilla. I went the rebuild route, but that required lots of 
> soldering, which isn't easy if you don't deal with electronics a lot.
> 
> Another option you might want to consider is buying the LockZilla and the 
> Wings-A-Loft remote. This gives you good reliability, while still costing 
> less then buying both Zillas.
> 
> Chris
> VIN 4099

[moderator snip]





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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2004 11:42:15 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jamie Hamlin <jamiepierce2000_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Insurance


Does anyone know anything about buying back a totaled car through
Allstate in Florida?
 
Jamie Hamlin
Milton Florida
Vin# 2606 (totaled from Ivan)





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Message: 19
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2004 10:07:37 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Radio Upgrade


I agree with Ryan's approach.  To support my high-end
Sony head deck I installed Don Steger's kick panel
speakers.  I also kept the dash speakers with a cross
over to "fill in the sound".

Six inch speakers are mounted in cut-outs in the rear
panel along with the amp.  (Mounting it here
eliminates much of the heat dissapation concern.)  

The only other thing I added was a "small" sub-woofer
which is placed in the cubby hole behind the drivers
seat - - NOT to have my insides vibrate and to
serenade the neighborhood, but to simply add a small
touch of clean crisp base.

All in all I am VERY staisfied with the setup although
I know purists will cringe.  But, since I do many many
long distance drives, I wanted to be sure I have good
sounds along the way.

Dick Ryan
VIN 16867 



--- ryanpwright <dmcnews_list_at_dml_ryanwright.com> wrote:
> 
> Another option is to eliminate the front speakers
> alltogether, and
> instead buy kick-panel boxes from Don Steger _at_dml_
> deloreanmotorcenter.com. I believe that gets you
> 5.25" speakers up
> front. I'm planning to buy a set of these myself,
> though I'll still
> use the 4" speakers on a crossover to help fill the
> sound.
> 
> In the back, the 4x10s aren't even worth replacing.
> I just left mine
> in, cut two holes in the back panel and mounted a
> couple of Boston
> Acoustic 6" speakers. The sound is a hundred times
> improved.
> 
> Amps come next, not sure where I'm going to mount
> mine. I'd thought
> about up front, but might see if I can get something
> under the seat
> instead. Heat is a concern there, though. I won't do
> it if there is a
> possibility of damaging the seats.
> 
> -Ryan

[moderator snip]





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Message: 20
Date: Wed, 06 Oct 2004 19:19:53 -0000
From: "ryanpwright" <dmcnews_list_at_dml_ryanwright.com>
Subject: Re: Lockzilla or WingsAloft???



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Chris Almy <chris.almy_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> 
> You should take note that the DPNW option uses the stock door lock 
> controller. This device has several known problems and should not be
used. 

Not necessarily. The problems with the stock door lock controller stem
primarily from it's being overloaded - the stock lock solenoids simply
draw a LOT of power which the relays on the controller can't handle.

If your module is currently working, it is a better idea to replace
the lock solenoids instead of the control module. The stock lock
solenoids are heavy, power hungry, and expensive at $110+ a piece if
(not when) you have to replace them. For $100 total, you can get a
pair of brand new linear actuators to replace the solenoids in both
doors and some outboard relays to drive them - meaning your stock lock
module will no longer be overloaded and should last the life of the
car. This has the added benefit of reducing the strain on your door
torsion bars & struts, reducing the strain on the electrical system,
and it's a quarter the cost of replacing your lock module & solenoids.
This kit is sold by www.delorean-parts.com as the "Wings-A-Loft Door
Lock Actuator Upgrade", part #K2500DP. (direct link:
http://delorean-parts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=DPNW&Product_Code=K2500DP&Category_Code=9401)

-Ryan









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Message: 21
Date: Wed, 06 Oct 2004 19:41:53 -0000
From: "p12c16" <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Lockzilla or WingsAloft???



"Another option you might want to consider is buying the LockZilla and the 
Wings-A-Loft remote. This gives you good reliability, while still costing less then buying 
both Zillas."

Or you could by Toby's door lock actuators for $100, thus making the locking mechanism 
even more reliable, taking weight out of the doors, strain off the torsion bars, etc.  I plan 
on buying a set myself before long.  I think this is the way to go vs. Lockzilla, as the door 
lock module can't burn out or lock up the actuator the same way it does the solenoids.  
Correct me if I am wrong.

Patrick
1880








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Message: 22
Date: Wed, 06 Oct 2004 21:12:14 -0000
From: "John Rydholm" <ebondefender_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Funny sound behind dash?



Recently I read a post about a strange buzzing sound behind the 
dashboard. However I couldn't find the original message. Could 
anyone please enlighten me as to what this sound is? It's a strange, 
faintly-quiet buzzing sound. It seems to becoming from somewhere in 
between the luggage compartment and the console. None of my warning 
lights were on, and I also had the fan and A/C unit off. Whut in 
tarnation iz it?? Thanks! :)
-Johnny








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Message: 23
Date: Wed, 06 Oct 2004 21:24:43 -0000
From: "Larry Donn" <lumpyd2003_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: losing power


No fuel leaks and no gas smell. 



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_h...> 
wrote:
> 
> If the accumulator is actually leaking fuel, then it could affect 
power as a 
> significant leak would drop system pressure. Do you smell raw fuel 
or see 
> any signs of leaking?
> 
> -Joe Kuchan
> 

[long quote trimmed by moderator]





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Message: 24
Date: Wed, 06 Oct 2004 21:26:54 -0000
From: "Larry Donn" <lumpyd2003_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: losing power


The car starts fine cold. I only have problems when it is hot. I 
think it could be a vacuum leak, But I can't locate it.




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_v...> wrote:
> 
> You probably have a vacuum leak. Check for a broken vacuum hose 
somewhere.
> You probably have a cold start problem too, right?
> 
> Dave Sontos
> 

[moderator snip]





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Message: 25
Date: Wed, 06 Oct 2004 17:52:58 -0500
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Radio Upgrade


I agree with this, but for those of you not willing to make the investment 
or the changes I have a
solution for the front dash speakers at least.

I have found some decent 3 1/2" speakers that will fit in the dash that do 
not have tweeters
in the middle. They have a nice mid sound and are much better than the 
original and will
fit without modification.
The best part is that they are CHEAP!
I can sell you a set for only $29.99 including the shipping.
I will add them to my website soon, or you can contact me directly.

Just a note, I did manage to squeeze some little Rockfords in there by using 
a stack of washers as
a spacer for the tweeters, but I have learned that they need to sit flush in 
order to create
a seal. The dash itself becomes the speaker and the seal lets the small 
cosnes create some bass
this way.

- Videobob


>From: "ryanpwright" <dmcnews_list_at_dml_ryanwright.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Re: Radio Upgrade
>Date: Wed, 06 Oct 2004 05:34:10 -0000
>
>
>
>The stock speakers suck. There's no way around it, the sizes are
>terrible, and the backs are difficult to get to. Even if you could,
>why would you want to replace them - you can't buy a decent sounding
>4x10 to save your life.
>
>I installed 4" speakers up front. Your speakers up there are mounted
>up inside the dash, flush with the top, so as you can see modern
>speakers don't work very well due to the tweeters sticking up a bit.
>How did I fit the 4 inchers? If you look under the dash, the speakers
>are up inside what can only be described as "inverted cupholders".
>There's like a hollow channel in the dash that they mount way up into.
>
>So, to get 4" speakers, don't put them up into the hollow space. The
>"woofer" on a 4" speaker fits almost perfectly in that hole, the
>bracket to mount it doesn't. Instead, mount the bracket to the
>underside of the dash, so the woofer is sending the sound through that
>little channel and out the holes in the top of your dash. Some short
>self-tapping wood screws did the trick nicely.
>
>Another option is to eliminate the front speakers alltogether, and
>instead buy kick-panel boxes from Don Steger _at_dml_
>deloreanmotorcenter.com. I believe that gets you 5.25" speakers up
>front. I'm planning to buy a set of these myself, though I'll still
>use the 4" speakers on a crossover to help fill the sound.
>
>In the back, the 4x10s aren't even worth replacing. I just left mine
>in, cut two holes in the back panel and mounted a couple of Boston
>Acoustic 6" speakers. The sound is a hundred times improved.
>
>Amps come next, not sure where I'm going to mount mine. I'd thought
>about up front, but might see if I can get something under the seat
>instead. Heat is a concern there, though. I won't do it if there is a
>possibility of damaging the seats.
>
>-Ryan

[quote trimmed by moderator]





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