From: <>
To: <>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2275
Date: Thursday, October 14, 2004 8:29 AM

There are 6 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

From: "Robert Moseley" <>

2. Re: Transmission/Diff adjustment
From: "Dave Swingle" <>

3. Silver D with brown leather interior.
From: "Mads de Bruin" <>

4. Re: Evaporator
From: Jeff Phillips <>

5. Houston Area Owner Get Together
From: "birdwell77095" <>

6. Rough Idle
From: "birdwell77095" <>

Message: 1
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2004 03:11:09 -0000
From: "Robert Moseley" <>

For those of you out there planning on building a time machine replica,
or if you like to toss a few BTTF parts into your car at a car show,
or maybe you collect high end BTTF props for display then I have
something cool for you!

I have been working hard these last couple of weeks at making some
really awesome replicas of time machine parts.
I have made the TIME DRIVE CIRCUIT that sits near the shifter,
and now I have made the PLUTONIUM GAUGES that go in the glove compartment.

I am trying to blow these out so I can recover the money I spent
on all this stuff!

If you are interested in any stuff like this then check out my
eBay store:

- Videobob


Message: 2
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2004 04:12:59 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <>
Subject: Re: Transmission/Diff adjustment

It's in the manual, unfortunately the manual will tell you to take 
the trans completely apart and set the tension with only the 
differential in the case. If it's too tight the bearings will wear, 
too loose and the teeth on the gears will wear. 

It's a bit late now, but you do not have to remove that nut at all to 
change the seals. They just come out from the outside. This was 
discussed on the list about a month ago. 

Dave S

--- In, nicholden_at_dml_y... wrote:
> Hi, I have just replaced both the diff seals in my maunal 
> transmission, the problem i have is that on the adjustment side i 
> marked the nut, counted the turns etc etc.... but while i had the 
> adjustment nut out i washed it in solvent thus removing the black 
> mark i put on it! 
> It was one of those situations where i realised what i had done a 
> second after it was in the solvent but that was to late. I looked 
> very hard for left over marks and other ways to try identify where 
> it had been but had no luck. 
> I can get it within 1/2 a turn of where it used to be but not 100% 
> accurate. Is there a way or procedure to measure the correct 
> requiured. I am presuming that this is the adjustment for backlash 
> in the diff.
> My appoligies if this is all spelt out in the workshop manual as i 
> am on my way to the garage to consult it now. 
> Cheers Nick -sydney10927


Message: 3
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2004 06:39:06 -0000
From: "Mads de Bruin" <>
Subject: Silver D with brown leather interior.


While surfing the internet I came across a forum where someone told 
he saw a DeLorean. It's a Singapore forum.
There are two pictures in there as well, look here:

What caught my attention was the fact that it was a stainless steel 
DeLorean but with a brown leather interior.
The pics were taken two years ago so you probably all have seen it 
but for those of you who didn't, take a look at the link.
Don't know the story behind de D but I found it interesting enough to 
share it with you.

Mads de Bruin


Message: 4
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2004 07:52:32 -0500
From: Jeff Phillips <>
Subject: Re: Evaporator

   A good A/C shop can weld that pipe back together.  I just had the
same thing done to mine last month and its been working fine since. 
Usually the crack like that from overtightening or from the nipple-end
fusing to the drier.  In my case the end of the pipe was forever
attached to the drier.  The A/C shop welded a new end and threaded
fitting on and I bought a new drier.  All is good.  I don't know if
your local Midas or Sears auto store can do this,  their A/C service
usually consists of hooking your car up to a machine and pressing the
green button.  Look for a mom and pop, ask on the phone if they can do
it before bringing it in.


On Thu, 14 Oct 2004 01:47:06 -0000, Dani B <> wrote:
> I've been wondering...My evaporator-the tube that connects to the
> accumulator has split apart, so basically the tube is in 2 sections
> instead of 1 piece. I am wondering if this can be aluminum welded,
> will it hold the pressure and last? Since this has happened a few
> years ago I've since removed the compressor and lines, but if I can
> fix the evaporator I will put everything back. Any other way this can
> be fixed witout spending 500 bucks? -What do you guys think? Thanks
> -Dani B. #5003
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> Yahoo! Groups Links


Message: 5
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2004 13:01:41 -0000
From: "birdwell77095" <>
Subject: Houston Area Owner Get Together

I'm interested in getting in touch with some Houston area owners who 
would be interested in getting together one Saturday in November. 
Please contact me offline with your telephone number and part of town 
you live in. I envision a get together to meet, socialize and help 
one another work on our cars. Also, if you have a place where we 
could meet, let me know.

VIN 16113


Message: 6
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2004 12:57:20 -0000
From: "birdwell77095" <>
Subject: Rough Idle

My car normally idles at about 900 RPM. In the last couple of days it 
will drop slightly then rev back up. When I press the accelerator the 
engine will rev up roughly for about a second before smoothing out. 
Could this be a slight leak in a vacuum hose? This started a day 
after I refueled. Could it be bad gasoline?



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