From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2284
Date: Wednesday, October 20, 2004 9:00 AM


There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Symptoms of bad TA bolts
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>

2. Re: Proper operation of mode switch
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

3. Re: Re: Auto to Manual!!!--My experience
From: My House <BePositive2000_at_dml_Yahoo.com>

4. Re: hey everyone I am new to the delorean mailing list
From: "LJScarlet2" <ljscarlet2_at_dml_yahoo.com>

5. Re: Fall Tour
From: "media1524" <brentlun_at_dml_netrax.net>

6. Re: Proper operation of mode switch
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

7. Unsigned Posts/Vendor posts
From: Holler <thehauntfactory_at_dml_att.net>

8. Re: hey everyone I am new to the delorean mailing list
From: "R... V.W." <phaedradolly_at_dml_yahoo.com>

9. Re: headlight blackout covers
From: "R... V.W." <phaedradolly_at_dml_yahoo.com>

10. Re: Las Vegas
From: "M. P. Olans" <mpolans_at_dml_creeper.com>

11. RE: Fall Tour
From: "Scott McMullan" <mcmullas_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>

12. Re: Symptoms of bad TA bolts
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

13. Re: door seal
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

14. Re: hey everyone I am new to the delorean mailing list
From: "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113_at_dml_yahoo.com>

15. Re: Symptoms of bad TA bolts
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMUK Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

16. Installing Trip Reset Shaft
From: "p12c16" <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com>

17. RE: Fall Tour
From: Kevin Abato <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>

18. Continued: Cooling leak ...
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_bwig.net>

19. Re: Painting Fibreglass
From: "Sean Howley" <delorsche_at_dml_msn.com>

20. Re: Symptoms of bad TA bolts
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>

21. 17000 Vins..
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

22. Re: door seal
From: chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com

23. RE: Installing Trip Reset Shaft
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

24. Re: Re: Symptoms of bad TA bolts
From: JDub <doki_pen_at_dml_yahoo.com>

25. Re: Symptoms of bad TA bolts
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2004 16:18:33 -0000
From: "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com>
Subject: Re: Symptoms of bad TA bolts



Harry,

I don't believe there are any symptoms until it's too late.

That said, you don't need a lift. A set of ramps and a jack to help
release the load when you remove the bolts is plenty. This is a very
easy job (unless you have an automatic).

-Ryan

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Other than visual inspection is there away one can diagnose bad 
> trailing arm bolts by driving, handling characteristics? Curious, as 
> I wouldnt want anything to happen and dont always have the luxury of 
> a lift available.
> 
> Thanks guys
> Harry 2696








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2004 16:21:13 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Proper operation of mode switch



Ryan- Stick your hand behind the heater where that foam piece you
taped up 
is and run it on normal. You will feel if there are any more leaks. I
tried duct 
tape but apparently it didn't stop all my leaks. I poured fast tack
adhesive all 
over the place; the foam/heater box/and hoses themselves and now I
don't 
have any leaks. Also-check to make sure your rugs arent in the way of
the 
heater footwell ducts, it is typical for this to happen-the ducts are
up on the 
tunnel by the heater. I don't remember which place-but there was a bulletin 
either in the bulletin book or dmcnews that describes this problem so check 
that out. If this doesn't improve
your 
problems, then you'd want to check out the vac lines. Vent should
just come 
out the door vents and the one above the radio, bi-level comes out
the vents 
and footwells, heater just comes out the footwell vents-there is a
description in 
the shop manual where the air will flow (in the heating section I
believe) at a 
given setting-check the book and you should be all set. Let us know what 
happens- Dani B. #5003

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_r...> wrote:
> 
> 
> What is the proper operation of the mode switch? In other words,
where
> should I get air on the various settings?
> 
> Here's the deal: I get A/C just fine on the three A/C settings, but
> there isn't much of a difference between them. The airflow is
boosted
> slightly when on max. Mid and low appear identical. When the
> temperature is switched to hot, "vent" directs air at my feet,
> "heater" doesn't seem to direct air anywhere, and "defrost" seems to
> direct more air toward the windshield but not as much as I'd expect.
> If I switch the temperature over to cold, all of this changes
> completely!
> 
> So I dug into it tonight. The dreaded previous owner screwed up my
> vaccumn lines. I did my best to sort them out, following the diagram
> here (http://www.usadmc.com/dmcstore/images%5C730.gif). There was an
> extra T where one shouldn't be, another with a missing hose, etc.
> Anyway, I think it's all as it should be now, but the situation
hasn't
> changed any. 
> 
> I've:
> 
> 1. Rebuilt the mode switch. There are no vaccumn leaks that I know
of
> either up front or at the engine - doesn't mean they aren't there,
> just that I don't know of them. :)
> 
> 2. Sealed (as best as I could) that foam behind the heater box with
> some duct tape.
> 
> 3. Tried to sort out the vaccumn lines, I THINK they're correct, but
> who knows.
> 
> Any thoughts?
> 
> -Ryan








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2004 09:53:31 -0700 (PDT)
From: My House <BePositive2000_at_dml_Yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Auto to Manual!!!--My experience


Several years ago I converted my D from auto to manual.  Compared to
the headaches I had with the automatic, the manual has been relatively
trouble-free.

The tranny portion of the swap was no more difficult than removing &
replacing automatic-to-automatic or manual-to-manual.  However, that's
only part of the battle.  The auto pedal assembly must be swapped with
the manual assembly (obviously).  

The most difficult part of the swap (for me) was installing the manual
shift linkage.  The only difference I've been able to see between the
frame on a manual transmission car and the frame of an automatic is the
shift linkage mounting plate on the inside the center tube of the
frame.  To mount the manual linkage you must cut a larger opening in
the mounting plate and drill mounting holes.  I used a round hack saw
blade and a lot of patience to cut the plate.  Somewhere I have photos
and a cardboard template which I'd be glad to send if you go ahead with
the conversion.

Before installing the manual tranny I recommend checking the shifting
forks inside the tranny to be sure nothing is bent (may save grinding
into second gear).  You also might want to consider taking the tranny
to a good transmission shop for inspection and replace all of the
tranny seals.  

Also, I suggest the following:

- Install a new slave cylinder, master cylinder & steel clutch line
- Install a new centerforce II clutch plate
- Replace the rear crank seal in the engine
- Replace the pilot & throwout bearings
- Check other posts for items that are recommended for replacement when
removing a manual tranny (I'm going from memory)
- take photos as you go

As I recall, the steering column must be removed to replace the pedal
assembly.  If this is the case, remove the u-joint in the steering
shaft and soak the joint in hot synthetic gear lube for about 12 hours
(this forces lube into the joint and extends its life - heat with a hot
plate - outside - and be very careful).

Hopefully, this will give you an idea of what to expect and a start on
your project.

Good luck,

Woody

 






		
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2004 16:54:38 -0000
From: "LJScarlet2" <ljscarlet2_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: hey everyone I am new to the delorean mailing list



Hi Jay.

Good luck with your search for a D!  If I can offer any advice, it is 
this:  make sure you save enough money for one in decent condition.  
I tried to save a little on the initial purchase, and wound up 
spending a lot more in repairs than I had expected.  I only paid $13k 
for the car, but am up to about $20k including repairs, upgrades, 
etc. and I still have lots more to do.  There are no bargains.  For 
that much, I could have started with a better car and spent less time 
in the shop!  Still, she is my baby and I am now devoted to fixing 
her up.  

I attended the Mid-Atlantic club fall tour this weekend, and it 
really showed me how great these cars can be.  The other club members 
have made their cars look like they just rolled out of the factory.  
So beautiful!  And, there is nothing like the looks we got driving 
around 19 of them in a row.  It is a fantastic car, and a fun hobby.  
Let us know when you get yours!  

Lauren


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Jay Gosciniak" <gotojayjay_at_dml_a...> 
wrote:
> 
> Hello everyone, my name is Jay Gosciniak and I am new to the 
mailing list
> and am seriously interested in Deloreans. I am a sophomore at NCHS 
in
> Naperville Illinois and am saving like CRAZY to buy a delorean. 
Just wanted
> to introduce myself.









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2004 19:22:48 -0000
From: "media1524" <brentlun_at_dml_netrax.net>
Subject: Re: Fall Tour



I enjoyed your pictures of Fall Foliage Tour V.  I couldn't help but 
laugh at the caption about the red Plymouth under Aaron with his new 
DeLorean.  My DeLorean is under repair but I was sooooooooo tempted 
to change my plans for that weekend so I could attend and drive in 
front of him during the tour in my Volkswagen.

Brent Lundgren
VIN #17006

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Scott McMullan" <mcmullas_at_dml_b...> 
wrote:
> 
> 
> If anyone cares, I assembled a very few of my photos from the fall 
tour into
> a nice little arrangement.
> 
> http://www.sixgeeks.org/~scott/DeLorean/falltour5
> 
> And due to a quirk, there is actually one picture after the last 
one listed,
> you'll need to hit the "next" button to see it (can't get to it 
from the
> text navigation on the left)
> 
> I only had half my pictures available when I threw this together, 
so it
> might change over time.








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2004 19:24:18 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Proper operation of mode switch



Pages N:01:03-09 of the Workshop Manual show graphically which
diaphragms should be activated for each HVAC mode switch setting. Text
at the bottom of each page also explains quite well. Page N:08:15
documents vacuum hose routing -- if you still have factory hoses
simply follow their colored stripes ("pipe traces").

A hand vacuum pump is invaluable for trouble shooting vacuum operated
devices. Will verify that all HVAC plumbing is indeed vacuum tight
from the engine compartment Tee forward (remember: my leak was under
the console). Can also use it to manually operate each ductwork
diaphragm individually. 

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_r...> wrote:
> 
> 
> What is the proper operation of the mode switch? In other words, where
> should I get air on the various settings?
> 
> Here's the deal: I get A/C just fine on the three A/C settings, but
> there isn't much of a difference between them. The airflow is boosted
> slightly when on max. Mid and low appear identical. When the
> temperature is switched to hot, "vent" directs air at my feet,
> "heater" doesn't seem to direct air anywhere, and "defrost" seems to
> direct more air toward the windshield but not as much as I'd expect.
> If I switch the temperature over to cold, all of this changes
> completely!
> 
> So I dug into it tonight. The dreaded previous owner screwed up my
> vaccumn lines. I did my best to sort them out, following the diagram
> here (http://www.usadmc.com/dmcstore/images%5C730.gif). There was an
> extra T where one shouldn't be, another with a missing hose, etc.
> Anyway, I think it's all as it should be now, but the situation hasn't
> changed any. 
> 
> I've:
> 
> 1. Rebuilt the mode switch. There are no vaccumn leaks that I know of
> either up front or at the engine - doesn't mean they aren't there,
> just that I don't know of them. :)
> 
> 2. Sealed (as best as I could) that foam behind the heater box with
> some duct tape.
> 
> 3. Tried to sort out the vaccumn lines, I THINK they're correct, but
> who knows.
> 
> Any thoughts?
> 
> -Ryan








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2004 16:21:08 -0400
From: Holler <thehauntfactory_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Unsigned Posts/Vendor posts


Thanks go out to all the moderators.
Most of us are here to USE the list for our personal gain, whether it be
through sales, information, or fellowship.
The moderators help us all achieve this by ensuring quality, efficiency
and generally making this one of the NICEST lists (on ANY topic) on the internet.

It is obvious that you all care and put much time and consideration into
these recent issues, as well as the day to day smooth operation of the list.

I know I speak for many here:
Thank You!

Oliver Holler
Vin# 10694
"It is said that those you choose to associate with will reflect in your
own character."





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2004 13:25:42 -0700 (PDT)
From: "R... V.W." <phaedradolly_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: hey everyone I am new to the delorean mailing list


Hi Jay,
Welcome to a future De Lorean owner. I saw my first De Lorean in high school too, too bad it took 21 years to finally get one. Mine is to me unfortunately painted white. I learned to fall in love with it. After $15 k in upgrades, I am very fond of it now.
 
Rita

Jay Gosciniak <gotojayjay_at_dml_aol.com> wrote:


Hello everyone, my name is Jay Gosciniak and I am new to the mailing list
and am seriously interested in Deloreans. I am a sophomore at NCHS in
Naperville Illinois and am saving like CRAZY to buy a delorean. Just wanted
to introduce myself.





- Jay Gosciniak



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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2004 14:38:32 -0700 (PDT)
From: "R... V.W." <phaedradolly_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: headlight blackout covers


Hi 
There are a pair on ebay. I also have a set and am contemplating selling them. Funny, they are a brownish tint, but looks tinted black and has white DMC on the corner of them. I got them from the guy that sold me the D about a year and a half ago. 
Rita

deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com wrote:


In a message dated 10/7/2004 8:43:58 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
stangboy70us_at_dml_yahoo.com writes:
<help me find a set or direct me to someone that sells them? >>

Hi- I looked too a few years ago. Definitely out of production unless one of 
the vendors just started making them. A clear pair... way less cool than the 
smoke gray... just went for over $200. on ebay.
Wayne A. Ernst


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For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2004 21:47:31 -0000
From: "M. P. Olans" <mpolans_at_dml_creeper.com>
Subject: Re: Las Vegas



11/5?
     Very nice.  I'll be up there that night.  Might not make it to 
the meeting, though, so I will send Evil Dan in my place....:)  The 
AZ-D also hosts Las Vegas members and we welcome everyone into the 
club.  We make it to Vegas a few times every year and host a lot of 
events with different vendors and special guests in the Phoenix area 
each year.  Check out our website (under construction) at www.az-
d.org.

Matthew, AZ-D Veep
VIN 16816

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> 
> JW
> 
> There is no organized LV DeLorean club.  However, LV D owners do 
get 
> together when we come to town.  November 5  will be our 4th meeting 
this 
> year.
> 
> Are you the new D owner in LV?
> 
> BOB








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2004 18:18:59 -0400
From: "Scott McMullan" <mcmullas_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>
Subject: RE: Fall Tour



Thanks!

We're pretty close; I'm VIN# 17094.

-----Original Message-----
From: media1524 [mailto:brentlun_at_dml_netrax.net]
Sent: Tuesday, October 19, 2004 3:23 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Fall Tour





I enjoyed your pictures of Fall Foliage Tour V.  I couldn't help but
laugh at the caption about the red Plymouth under Aaron with his new
DeLorean.  My DeLorean is under repair but I was sooooooooo tempted
to change my plans for that weekend so I could attend and drive in
front of him during the tour in my Volkswagen.

Brent Lundgren
VIN #17006

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Scott McMullan" <mcmullas_at_dml_b...>
wrote:
>
>
> If anyone cares, I assembled a very few of my photos from the fall
tour into
> a nice little arrangement.
>
> http://www.sixgeeks.org/~scott/DeLorean/falltour5
>
> And due to a quirk, there is actually one picture after the last
one listed,
> you'll need to hit the "next" button to see it (can't get to it
from the
> text navigation on the left)
>
> I only had half my pictures available when I threw this together,
so it
> might change over time.








To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Yahoo! Groups Links












________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2004 23:11:59 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Symptoms of bad TA bolts



About the only way to properly inspect the TAB's is to remove any
loads on the bolt, loosen the nut, and rotate the head of the bolt
while watching to see if anything is bent. Toby explains this better
in his post. My advice is if you have ANY doubts about the integrity
of this critical fastener you should just replace it.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_r...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Harry,
> 
> I don't believe there are any symptoms until it's too late.
> 
> That said, you don't need a lift. A set of ramps and a jack to help
> release the load when you remove the bolts is plenty. This is a very









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2004 23:20:17 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: door seal



It is very likely that the anchor pins that the door locks close on
were adjusted to the old, worn door seals. With the new seals the pins
must be readjusted. It is not too hard to do but if you don't have a
lot of experience it could take a while of trial-and-error. Take the
round rubber grommets off and you will see that you can put a wrench
on the pin to loosen it so you can reposition it. The pin should go
right into the center of the door lock without banging on the guides.
Both pins must hit the first locking position at the same time.
Remember that the door closes in an arc. For the first time you try
this you will find it easier if you remove one of the pins and adjust
the other  pin first and then reinstall the one you removed and adjust
it to the first one. In some cases you must file away some of the
fiberglass to get a little more adjustment room for the pin.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "zeilner0" <zeilner0_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> 
> I tried to mount the inner seal on my passenger door. But after 
> mounting, the door wonīt close any more. I couldnīt find an other way 
> of mounting. Is there a trick, or can I get a seal that fits? Please 
> help a new delorean owner in Austria
> 
> Gerhard








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2004 21:20:28 -0000
From: "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: hey everyone I am new to the delorean mailing list



Welcome aboard, you are in the right place if you care or are
interested in Deloreans. The guys here are all very helpful and
knowledgeable. Goodluck.








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2004 21:32:59 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMUK Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Symptoms of bad TA bolts


Try doing a quick left-right-left manoever, as if avoiding something in 
the road. The back end should feel tight and positive. If it wanders 
around behind you, the TA bolts are loose

Martin

spaceace3113 wrote:

>
>Other than visual inspection is there away one can diagnose bad 
>trailing arm bolts by driving, handling characteristics? Curious, as 
>I wouldnt want anything to happen and dont always have the luxury of 
>a lift available.
>
>Thanks guys
>Harry 2696
>
>  
>







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2004 21:21:50 -0000
From: "p12c16" <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Installing Trip Reset Shaft



Well I finally broke down and bought the DMCH trip reset shaft and all parts needed to 
install it.  Mine had been broken off since I bought the car, and I never really saw the need 
to fix it.  I was wondering if there are any instructions out there as to how to replace it?  
Getting the binacle and gauges off is no problem, but I was wondering if anyone else has 
replaced this shaft before?  I am sure I could figure it out, but I want to know if there are 
any tricky steps, because I would hate to break something else inside the speedo.

Thanks,
Patrick 
1880  








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2004 20:07:21 -0400
From: Kevin Abato <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>
Subject: RE: Fall Tour


Aaron's a good guy...I don't think it would have bothered him one bit.
We actually had several cars mingled in our caravans and nobody was
upset about it.  We also spent a good majority of the weekend cracking
on him about his other car, but hey...it wouldn't have been an event
without him to beat up on.  ;)

He is the true dedication to owning a DMC.  Aaron was on the DML for
several years, worked an "internship" with P.J. Grady, paid membership
to the Mid-Atlantic club, and volunteered to help do the club
newsletter.....ALL BEFORE OWNING A CAR!

CONGRATS AARON ON GETTING YOUR CAR!  You deserve it!  :)


Kevin Abato
Vin# 16680



-----Original Message-----
From: media1524 [mailto:brentlun_at_dml_netrax.net] 
Sent: Tuesday, October 19, 2004 3:23 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Fall Tour





I enjoyed your pictures of Fall Foliage Tour V.  I couldn't help but 
laugh at the caption about the red Plymouth under Aaron with his new 
DeLorean.  My DeLorean is under repair but I was sooooooooo tempted 
to change my plans for that weekend so I could attend and drive in 
front of him during the tour in my Volkswagen.

Brent Lundgren
VIN #17006

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Scott McMullan" <mcmullas_at_dml_b...> 
wrote:
> 
> 
> If anyone cares, I assembled a very few of my photos from the fall
tour into
> a nice little arrangement.
> 
> http://www.sixgeeks.org/~scott/DeLorean/falltour5
> 
> And due to a quirk, there is actually one picture after the last
one listed,
> you'll need to hit the "next" button to see it (can't get to it
from the
> text navigation on the left)
> 
> I only had half my pictures available when I threw this together,
so it
> might change over time.








To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com

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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2004 19:27:24 -0500
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_bwig.net>
Subject: Continued: Cooling leak ...


I was hoping to post that fixing the t'stat gasket solved the problem but
...

I pressurized the system and there was leak down but no leak.  Today when I
checked, the block is full of coolant again.  I suspect:
- Head gaskets
- Y-Pipe fittings

I sure wish something would simply squirt.  It would make it a lot easier.

Nick






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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2004 20:37:51 -0400
From: "Sean Howley" <delorsche_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Re: Painting Fibreglass


The two main secrets to painting vertually anything is to ensure that the surface to be painted has all contaminants removed.  The second is to ensure that the surface to be painted have the proper surface finish on it (sanded).  Painting the engine compartment will require a lot of attention to be paid to cleaning.  Any oil, grease, silicone, etc. ("bad guys") that exists must be removed or the paint might flake off or worse.

In the application to fiberglass, there is an additional fear.  These bad guys can be beneath the surface and would require more than a wipe off to completely remove.  If I were going to paint this area of the car, I would also like to spend some additional time smoothing the surface to be painted.  This way, the random fibers that are on our glass could be hidden to show a more attractive finish.

As far as types of paint, the best type to use would be a two part type for the best adherance.  However, there are many "spray can" paints that can produce a great finish too.  Just make sure that you use the proper types per the manufacturer's suggestions as some types do not adhere to the glass as well as others and there are adherance promoter type of pre paint products that you might also look into using.

Sean Howley
VIN#2345

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 20
Date: Wed, 20 Oct 2004 00:49:31 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>
Subject: Re: Symptoms of bad TA bolts



Harry,

I would recommend reviewing Post 46068 by Joe Kuchan, echoing the
advice of David T. and others.  This is not a very easy job if all
does not go well.  Joe's son Peter has a very nice, low mileage 
Delorean and we had one bolt that we could not remove with a 40 ton
press and we had the luxury of using a lift.  I guess if we had a
torch, we may have gotten it out but I almost doubt it.  Luckily
we had a spare trailing arm to replace the one with the stuck bolt
but it turned into at least a good half day job (on a 5-speed).

I have replaced a few dozen TA bolts over the years on many cars
and I only had one go "very easy" and that was my Canadian D.
Maybe my experience has been with too many "rust belt" Deloreans
but I always allow for plenty of time to change a set of TA bolts.

Later,
Rich W.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_r...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Harry,
> 
> I don't believe there are any symptoms until it's too late.
> 
> That said, you don't need a lift. A set of ramps and a jack to help
> release the load when you remove the bolts is plenty. This is a 
very
> easy job (unless you have an automatic).
> 
> -Ryan
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:
> > 
> > 
> > Other than visual inspection is there away one can diagnose bad 
> > trailing arm bolts by driving, handling characteristics? 
Curious, as 
> > I wouldnt want anything to happen and dont always have the 
luxury of 
> > a lift available.
> > 
> > Thanks guys
> > Harry 2696








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Message: 21
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2004 18:42:56 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: 17000 Vins..


17000 vins...  Do you have the 81 or 82 style tail
pipes??


--- Scott McMullan <mcmullas_at_dml_bellatlantic.net> wrote:
> Thanks!
> 
> We're pretty close; I'm VIN# 17094.
> 
<SNIP>
> Brent Lundgren
> VIN #17006
> 
>

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Message: 22
Date: Wed, 20 Oct 2004 02:43:22 -0000
From: chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com
Subject: Re: door seal



Before you do anything silly, like adjusting your latch pins, did 
the door line up with the panels adjacent to it with the old seal in 
place? If so DO NOT adjust anything. The new seal just needs to get 
used to being in place. Coat it with something like "back to black" 
or "armor all". These will act as a lubricant and allow the door, 
while still harder than it was, to close. 

Chris

 
> It is very likely that the anchor pins that the door locks close on
> were adjusted to the old, worn door seals. With the new seals the 
pins
> must be readjusted. It is not too hard to do but if you don't have 
a
> lot of experience it could take a while of trial-and-error. Take 
the
> round rubber grommets off and you will see that you can put a 
wrench
> on the pin to loosen it so you can reposition it. The pin should go
> right into the center of the door lock without banging on the 
guides.
> Both pins must hit the first locking position at the same time.
> Remember that the door closes in an arc. For the first time you try
> this you will find it easier if you remove one of the pins and 
adjust
> the other  pin first and then reinstall the one you removed and 
adjust
> it to the first one. In some cases you must file away some of the
> fiberglass to get a little more adjustment room for the pin.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757 
> 
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "zeilner0" <zeilner0_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> > 
> > 
> > I tried to mount the inner seal on my passenger door. But after 
> > mounting, the door wonīt close any more. I couldnīt find an 
other way 
> > of mounting. Is there a trick, or can I get a seal that fits? 
Please 
> > help a new delorean owner in Austria
> > 
> > Gerhard








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Message: 23
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2004 23:57:35 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Installing Trip Reset Shaft


Patrick, I fixed mine with a small piece of black heat shrink tubing and a
little glue.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com





-----Original Message-----
From: p12c16 [mailto:PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, October 19, 2004 3:22 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Installing Trip Reset Shaft





Well I finally broke down and bought the DMCH trip reset shaft and all parts
needed to
install it.  Mine had been broken off since I bought the car, and I never
really saw the need
to fix it.  I was wondering if there are any instructions out there as to
how to replace it?
Getting the binacle and gauges off is no problem, but I was wondering if
anyone else has
replaced this shaft before?  I am sure I could figure it out, but I want to
know if there are
any tricky steps, because I would hate to break something else inside the
speedo.

Thanks,
Patrick
1880








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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2004 22:08:30 -0700 (PDT)
From: JDub <doki_pen_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Symptoms of bad TA bolts


--- ryanpwright <yahoo1_at_dml_ryanwright.com> wrote:

>This is a very easy job (unless you have an
automatic).

Why is that?

Jon





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Message: 25
Date: Wed, 20 Oct 2004 02:44:44 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Symptoms of bad TA bolts



Easier and a lot safer to just put the car on a lift and inspect. If
you are driving around and your TAB's are THAT LOOSE then you have
already lost the shims and you are just asking for trouble. If your
car EVER feels that bad just park it and walk. One of the hallmarks of
the Delorean is it's tight handling. You should be able to throw it
into a corner and accelerate! Of course you should only push your car
hard if you have full confidence in it. Now you see why I suggest you
replace the TAB's. BTW I recomend when you inspect the TAB's you
should use a magic marker and write the # of shims on each side on the
frame. This way if any should fall out (or you ever take the bolts
out) you will know how many shims to put back. The quick left-right
manuever can tell you if the half-shafts clunk and are in need of
cleaning and relubrication. When under the car inspecting the TAB's
you should be looking around generaly for anything not "right" like
torn C/V boots, loose hardware, burnt wires, oil leaks, coolant leaks etc.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Martin Gutkowski - DMUK Ltd
<martin_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> 
> Try doing a quick left-right-left manoever, as if avoiding something in 
> the road. The back end should feel tight and positive. If it wanders 
>
> >
> >  
> >








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