From: <>
To: <>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2285
Date: Wednesday, October 20, 2004 9:41 AM

There are 3 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Re: Auto to Manual!!!--My experience
From: Thomas Mc Auley <>

2. RE: door seal
From: "Dave Sontos" <>

3. Re: Re: door seal
From: "Elvis Nocita" <>

Message: 1
Date: Wed, 20 Oct 2004 07:58:20 +0100 (BST)
From: Thomas Mc Auley <>
Subject: Re: Re: Auto to Manual!!!--My experience

Thanks for the advice, sounds like good news. I am actually getting a local 'De Lorean genius' to do the work, so I forwarded your email to him to read.
I already have sorted out most of the parts so hopefully it shouldnt be too long before I have my car back.
Will let you know the outcome!
Vin 4087

My House <> wrote:

Several years ago I converted my D from auto to manual. Compared to
the headaches I had with the automatic, the manual has been relatively

The tranny portion of the swap was no more difficult than removing &
replacing automatic-to-automatic or manual-to-manual. However, that's
only part of the battle. The auto pedal assembly must be swapped with
the manual assembly (obviously). 

The most difficult part of the swap (for me) was installing the manual
shift linkage. The only difference I've been able to see between the
frame on a manual transmission car and the frame of an automatic is the
shift linkage mounting plate on the inside the center tube of the
frame. To mount the manual linkage you must cut a larger opening in
the mounting plate and drill mounting holes. I used a round hack saw
blade and a lot of patience to cut the plate. Somewhere I have photos
and a cardboard template which I'd be glad to send if you go ahead with
the conversion.

Before installing the manual tranny I recommend checking the shifting
forks inside the tranny to be sure nothing is bent (may save grinding
into second gear). You also might want to consider taking the tranny
to a good transmission shop for inspection and replace all of the
tranny seals. 

Also, I suggest the following:

- Install a new slave cylinder, master cylinder & steel clutch line
- Install a new centerforce II clutch plate
- Replace the rear crank seal in the engine
- Replace the pilot & throwout bearings
- Check other posts for items that are recommended for replacement when
removing a manual tranny (I'm going from memory)
- take photos as you go

As I recall, the steering column must be removed to replace the pedal
assembly. If this is the case, remove the u-joint in the steering
shaft and soak the joint in hot synthetic gear lube for about 12 hours
(this forces lube into the joint and extends its life - heat with a hot
plate - outside - and be very careful).

Hopefully, this will give you an idea of what to expect and a start on
your project.

Good luck,


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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 20 Oct 2004 07:32:19 -0400
From: "Dave Sontos" <>
Subject: RE: door seal

You need to spray silicon lubricant on the seals where they contact the
door. This allows the door to slide on the new rubber. 

Why the vendors don't supply the lubricant or at least tell you to apply it
when installing new seals bothers me a great deal.

Dave Sontos
Vin 02573

-----Original Message-----
From: zeilner0 [] 
Sent: Tuesday, October 19, 2004 6:14 AM
Subject: [DML] door seal

I tried to mount the inner seal on my passenger door. But after 
mounting, the door wonīt close any more. I couldnīt find an other way 
of mounting. Is there a trick, or can I get a seal that fits? Please 
help a new delorean owner in Austria


Message: 3
Date: Wed, 20 Oct 2004 12:23:37 +0200 (MEST)
From: "Elvis Nocita" <>
Subject: Re: Re: door seal

I don't see why he should adjust the anchor pins when they worked properly
before ?

I guess he has the common problem now, that the inner door seal
on the top front outer corner is touching the door when closing.

Gerhard, check out if the seal is being pulled to the inside of the 
car when closing the door. That's very often a problem with new door 
seals. Don't mess with the anchor pins if they were set correctly before.

Maybe it's a good idea to get you in touch with some other Austrian

Elvis & 6548

> It is very likely that the anchor pins that the door locks close on
> were adjusted to the old, worn door seals. With the new seals the pins
> must be readjusted. It is not too hard to do but if you don't have a
> lot of experience it could take a while of trial-and-error. Take the
> round rubber grommets off and you will see that you can put a wrench

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