From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2289
Date: Friday, October 22, 2004 9:27 AM


There are 10 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Re: Fuel Economy
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

2. Re: DeLorean Handling
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

3. LED for Headlight / Hazard Switch
From: "gjl463" <gjlednicky_at_dml_comcast.net>

4. Rewiring the AC Panel Lights
From: "birdwell77095" <birdwells_at_dml_usa.net>

5. Which way does the water pump rotate
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_bwig.net>

6. RE: Delorean Frame for sale
From: "D F" <funkstuf_at_dml_hotmail.com>

7. DeLorean Handling Setups
From: "bbbigray" <bbbigray_at_dml_insightbb.com>

8. Re: Proper operation of mode switch
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

9. Re: Rewiring the AC Panel Lights
From: "Richard" <dmc_driver_at_dml_yahoo.ca>

10. Re: LED for Headlight / Hazard Switch
From: "anbrahaesl" <anders_at_dml_smartfilm.se>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2004 17:58:00 -0500
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Fuel Economy


#1 Fill your gas tank first, reset the tripometer.

#2 Drive till it is almost empty.

#3 Fill the tank.

#4 Divide the gallons filled by the miles driven and you get your MPG.

Impossible to do this by judging 1/4 tank.

Mark V






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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2004 22:48:22 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: DeLorean Handling



I'd have to disagree there. With proper suspension, tire pressure, and
tires, the DeLorean is pretty damn easy to get back on the road. In
fact, I've had the same experience that Rich did, where my car will
snap back into place, and continue straight.

>From my experience, 26psi is too dangerously low of a pressure to run
in your tires. You can easily break the rear tires loose at that
pressure. I run 36, and it's like I'm on rails. I sacrifice a slightly
more bumpy ride, for allot more safety.

Tires are the most important factor of all, next to driver skill. If
you don't have good quality tires, you will fail to properly re-grip
the road when you need. And you loose grip allot more easily durring
turning, and braking. I like the Cooper Cobras, because of my
experience with them. My second choice given all tires on the market
would be the Pirellis (I chose not to go with these for asthetic
purposes, not because of performance). Yeah, there are the XGT's, but
since no one has ever really reported an experience with sliding out
of control on these, I won't consider them. But in any case, the
proper tire will increase your braking performance, handling, and
safety factor.

The weight bias of the DeLorean not only makes it a more unique car,
but IMO, it makes it a helluva lot more safer, if you know how to
handle it. I've had pickup trucks, and driven full size vans that
would lose grip in the back, and were impossible to regrip the
surface, until the vehicle came to a complete stop. The DeLorean is a
different story, and a much happier one.

With the understeer, you can easily counter the rear sway. And with
the lock to lock of the steering rack, you can spin the steering wheel
very quickly, to correct that rear sway. If it's wet, or oily out, a
quick tap on the gas will sling the water off, and you'll quickly regrip.

The absolute WORST thing you can do is panic, and step on the brakes.
Did that once, and spun a 180 in traffic.

Would the DeLorean be a more dangerous car if it came with a more
powerful engine? I doubt it. Of all the people that have had engine
swaps performed, engines upgraded, or turbo kits strapped on, I've not
once heard anyone complain that their cars are any more squirly.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> 
> 
> I have to agree with Mike. A rear weight bias is the worst case. Think
> of it as a pendulum. Once it starts swinging there is no way to stop
> it and the chance to correct is very small. Factor in the limited
> steering radius of the front wheels and you are very quickly past the
> point where you can catch and correct a spin. On top of that the rear
> will probably break loose without much warning so you don't know just
> where that edge of performance is without going over it. Now you might
> start to understand some of the inherent benefits of a front wheel
> drive car with a front engine over a rear wheel drive car with a rear
> engine. It will allow you to "power steer" through a spin. Changing
> the motor and increasing the weight in the rear will only cause things
> to get worse, not better. In fact the easier it is to spin the tires,
> the easier it will be to spin the car. Maybe a slightly underpowered
> Delorean was a safer Delorean! Of course there are many other
> variables, for instance the amount of fuel (weight) in the tank, the
> condition of the tires and road surface, temperature, etc.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, mike.griese_at_dml_w... wrote:
> > 
> > I'm not sure I agree that a rear weight bias is easier to catch than
> > a mid or front weight bias, particularly with the DeLorean because
> > it is almost impossible to steer with the throttle.  Coupled with a
> > light front end, once it goes, it's gone.
> > 
> > --
> > Mike
> > 
> > 
> > -------------- Original message from "LJScarlet2" : -------------- 
> > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > Handling? Who had time to think about the handling? I was fearing 
> > > for my life--and screaming! Plus, that burning rubber smell really 
> > > demands your attention. 
> > > 
> > > In all fairness to Marc, and to his lovely vehicle, it was nothing 
> > > but pure driving skill coupled with a slow-to-fishtail car that 
> > > stopped us from plowing backwards into an SUV. 
> > > 
> > > In normal driving conditions, I have found the cornering to be
quite 
> > > good. Then again, I drive like a grandma ;) 
> > > 
> > > And, if my car has to spin, I'd rather the weight be in the back 
> > > because it is easier for you to regain control since it is less 
> > > disorienting than if the front was pushing the spin. 
> > > 
> > > 
> > 
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]








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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2004 23:24:47 -0000
From: "gjl463" <gjlednicky_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: LED for Headlight / Hazard Switch



Hi,
I'm in the process of replacing my bulbs to LEDs and was curious if 
anyone knows if there is a replacement LED for the Headlight and 
Hazard Switch?  Also, awhile back I thought I read somewhere a 
workaround for placing the center console lights on the same dimmer 
switch as the Instrument panel.  Can't seem to remember where I saw 
this.  Thanks for your help!








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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2004 23:34:30 -0000
From: "birdwell77095" <birdwells_at_dml_usa.net>
Subject: Rewiring the AC Panel Lights



Sometime back someone wrote about rewiring the AC panel lights so 
that they come on only when the headlights are on. Can someone send 
me instructions?

Shannon
16113








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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2004 19:38:43 -0500
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_bwig.net>
Subject: Which way does the water pump rotate


Clockwise or counter clockwise?

The first pressure test caused fluid on the block.  Filled it up and tested
again and no fluid this time.  Wow, a self healing car!  Not.

Thanks,

Nick






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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2004 03:35:09 +0000
From: "D F" <funkstuf_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Delorean Frame for sale


Would that frame work on an 81 5 speed?
also, do you know the weight of the frame for shipping costs?
Thanks,
Dale Funk
4984

>From: "Stainless_Illusion" <stainless_illusion_at_dml_insightbb.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
>Subject: [DML] Delorean Frame for sale
>Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2004 15:05:02 -0400
>
>
>
>I have a Delorean Frame on eBay for sale at the moment.  I know there are
>many with rusty frames so I figured
>I would let everyone know about this.  You can contact me through ebay or
>email privately if you have any questions.
>
>-StainlessIllusion
>
>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>







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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2004 04:04:04 -0000
From: "bbbigray" <bbbigray_at_dml_insightbb.com>
Subject: DeLorean Handling Setups



Hi List.

Great thread!

Haven't really heard a lot about setups, handling, and driving 
technique till this came up.

Have had the P.J. Grady lowering/suspension package and Don Steger's 
adjustable lower control arms on my PDC-equipped DMC since June now, 
and am just getting it wrung out.

The Grady setup is indeed a bit softer in the ride dept. than stock, 
though for the last twenty years the tight factory ride and feel has 
been a highlight.  With the lowered package and the adjustable shocks 
at factory pressure, the car grips a bit better on uneven surfaces, 
but at the price of increased body motion.  (Must admit I miss the 
old ride.)  Tearing around just takes a bit more finesse and planning 
than with the old legs, in return for a being a bit more forgiving 
when pushed on bumpy corners.

Having also added an Island Twin Turbo to the mix, I find the car 
much more fun to balance on the throttle in the corners.  Planting 
the rear wheels with the power and pushing or drifting to the exit is 
terrific to say the least, though I always leave plenty of room to 
turn out of the corner if the rear end protests.  (BTW, I agree that 
lifting at that point would likely induce rotational excursions with 
palpitations and shortness of breath.)  

Haven't had the nerve to try agressive trail braking into a corner or 
blasting a turn that tightens up on the way through. (like First 
Curve at Suzuka)  Anybody got a good technique?  Will have to do a 
Sunday at the track to play around with that as I would expect to 
exit backwards ocassionally.
  
On that note, lifting to rotate the car on entry (The Porsche 
technique) sounds like a good way to play sprint car/disk furrow if 
you're not choosy about the locale, so I'll save that for the track 
too.

All that said, some of you guys have alluded to modified or custom 
setups.  What hardware are you running specifically, and what has it 
done for you?  I'd love to see details like gas pressures, spring 
choices, ride control, brake specs, and so on.

As for me, I'm still digesting all the changes to The Big D, and 
expect to do little more than play with shock and tire pressures at 
the track next spring.  If I discover anything newsworthy I'll post 
the useful and entertaining parts.  Suffice it to say that plumbing 
the depths of the existing package is way enough fun for now.

Happy and Safe Driving,

--Ray
10693 and Counting.    








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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2004 05:43:29 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Proper operation of mode switch



I believe you're seeing the defroster vent linkage.

Disconnect each line at the HVAC mode switch and use a vacuum pump to
manually activate its diaphragm. You'll be able to feel the effect at
various vents. There are only three to check (vacuum opens): dash
vents (red), defrost vents (blue), and foot vents (brown). Remember to
cap the supply line to prevent a vacuum leak to the engine (unmarked,
tied to a big 1/4" hard plastic line under the console with a step
down connector). If your pump has a built in gauge you'll also be able
to watch the diaphragms hold vacuum. Orange line has a Tee in it to
operate both the inside/outside air supply flap and the heater core
shutoff valve -- shutoff valve linkage is visible in the engine
compartment but air supply is burried inside the heater/evaporator
core box. Be sure to check this one because the original hard plastic
heater core shutoff line is prone to crack in the engine compartment.

DeLo temperature control flap is not vacuum operated. It is attached
to the knob with a cable. Turning towards "Hot" opens the flap over
the heater core. This is very common in cars of its era.

Again, I urge you to check the whole assembled HVAC system for vacuum
tightness at the Tee in the engine compartment (right after the
takeoff barb on the passenger intake rail). See the pic of my vacuum
leak damaged plugs in #5939's photo album. A crack in the big 1/4"
supply line did that to me. Am very lucky not to have melted the
pistons or warped the valves. Other side of that Tee goes to the brake
booster -- check it too.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "ryanpwright" <yahoo1_at_dml_r...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Thanks Bill & Dani. Appreciate your replies. I'll go pick up a hand
> vaccum pump, and checkout that section of the workshop manual to
> ensure my lines are setup correctly. 
> 
> I can't help but wonder if one of my diaphragms isn't working. How can
> you tell whether they're working? I know there is one of them in the
> dash that moves a metal bar. I can clearly see it move, so it's OK,
> but I can't see if the others have anything similar (I can see the
> diaphragms themselves, but don't see any actuators coming off of them
> looking from underneath the driver's side).
> 
> Also -- Is the hot/cool knob supposed to change the location of air?
> For instance, I get air out the vents when it's on one setting, but
> change it and the airflow from the vents stops. I've never had a car
> work this way before.
> 
> -Ryan
> 









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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2004 06:05:37 -0000
From: "Richard" <dmc_driver_at_dml_yahoo.ca>
Subject: Re: Rewiring the AC Panel Lights



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "birdwell77095" <birdwells_at_dml_u...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Sometime back someone wrote about rewiring the AC panel lights so 
> that they come on only when the headlights are on. Can someone send 
> me instructions?
> 
> Shannon
> 16113


Look here: http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/acpanellites.htm

Hope this helps.  ;-)

Richard Rowe
5853








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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2004 10:42:46 -0000
From: "anbrahaesl" <anders_at_dml_smartfilm.se>
Subject: Re: LED for Headlight / Hazard Switch



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "gjl463" <gjlednicky_at_dml_c...> wrote:

I've been investigation LEDs a little and I think I've found the LED for the hazard 
switch. And all other bulbs as well but I'm pretty sure that you can forget the 
headlights.  

Check out this link for the hazard bulb:
http://autolumination.com/otherleds.htm

Also check out:
http://www.lampbulbs.com.tw/products/led.htm
http://www.myroadster.net/led.asp

Anders
VIN 10238

> 
> Hi,
> I'm in the process of replacing my bulbs to LEDs and was curious if 
> anyone knows if there is a replacement LED for the Headlight and 
> Hazard Switch?  Also, awhile back I thought I read somewhere a 
> workaround for placing the center console lights on the same dimmer 
> switch as the Instrument panel.  Can't seem to remember where I saw 
> this.  Thanks for your help!








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