From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2292
Date: Sunday, October 24, 2004 8:20 AM


There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: stripping paint
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>

2. Re: LED A/C Lights (Was Re: Rewiring the AC Panel Lights)
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

3. Re: Delorean Frame for sale
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

4. End of life for idle ECU's
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com

5. RE: Re: stripping paint
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

6. Re: Automatic door-coloser (Was: RE: LockZILLA with Remote ZILLAkit for sale)
From: "Shiraz Cupala" <shiraz_at_dml_cupala.com>

7. Re: Re: stripping paint
From: "Owen _at_dml_ Aerodrome" <owen_at_dml_aerodrome.us>

8. ECU end of life- Part deux
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

9. Re: stripping paint
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

10. My newest trick-
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

11. Re: Automatic door-coloser (Was: RE: LockZILLA with Remote ZILLAkit for sale)
From: "dmcorlando2003" <SundeQuick_at_dml_aol.com>

12. Re: End of life for idle ECU's
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

13. Brake Problem
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

14. Re: Re: Automatic door-coloser
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>

15. Plugged canister
From: kevin creason <kcreason77_at_dml_yahoo.com>

16. Re: Re: stripping paint
From: deloreanss_at_dml_aol.com

17. exhaust manifold gaskets
From: kevin creason <kcreason77_at_dml_yahoo.com>

18. Door Question
From: "Steve" <steve_at_dml_fotofx.net>

19. Auction in Merced, CA
From: "istewart88" <istewart88_at_dml_yahoo.com>

20. Goofy electrical stuff
From: "painterdave72" <painterdave72_at_dml_yahoo.com>

21. VIN 10497
From: "Cecil Longwisch" <dmc1982_at_dml_msn.com>

22. Re: Brake Problem
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>

23. Re: Goofy electrical stuff
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

24. Re: Plugged canister
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

25. Re: exhaust manifold gaskets
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2004 10:25:20 -0500
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>
Subject: Re: stripping paint


I removed the black imron paint from the delorean I bought using 
aircraft paint stripper.  It took 3 months.

BOB






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2004 10:29:42 -0500
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: LED A/C Lights (Was Re: Rewiring the AC Panel Lights)


Yes, those are the same bulbs, but not the same source.
Since I will be buying them in bulk from the manufacturer I will get them 
for less.
So, if you were planning to buy some of these, DO NOT order them from this 
site.
Please wait about a week and I will have them fully tested with photos and 
listed
on my site for much cheaper.
I may offer them as a package with my side marker LEDS, dash cluster LEDS, 
Door light LEDS
and my other running lights, etc....
- Videobob

>From: "Jake Kamphoefner" <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
>Subject: Re: [DML] LED A/C Lights (Was Re: Rewiring the AC Panel Lights)
>Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2004 02:45:10 -0500
>
>
>
>
>Bob,
>
>     Are these the ones you found??
>
>http://autolumination.com/otherleds.htm
>
>For anyone who is interested, they are the BA7s (scroll down about 3/4 down
>the page listed above).  For 3 bucks a piece, get 4 white and 3 red to do
>your A/C panel.  They plug right in, just as the old bulbs do.  No worries
>about polarity or improper fit.  Just put the 4 white ones in the sockets
>behind the panel, and the 3 red bulbs in the fan fail, defroster, and lock
>doors sockets.  *Be careful not to push the sockets back behind the panel 
>or
>you'll have to reach behind and "feel" them back into the hole*
>
>I mention this with excitement as I just performed this mod to my car a
>couple weeks ago.  On my early car, I was worried about damaging the
>"unique" earliest style panel from the heat.  Doing the wiring mod kept 
>them
>off during the day, but that thing would still burn my hand if I touched it
>at night -so I just unplugged the lights all together.  Thanks to Rod
>Dillman and others for posting the info for this site back in July.  I
>bought the bulbs, installed them using only one small, phillips 
>screwdriver.
>Very easy, the light is bright and even, and the panel is always cool to 
>the
>touch.
>
>By the way, I have no affiliation with the site I listed above.  I'm just a
>satisfied customer.  :-)
>
>Jake Kamphoefner in St. Louis
>(Driving 1063 to the World Series next week!  Whoo hoo!)
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
>To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
>Sent: Friday, October 22, 2004 1:29 PM
>Subject: Re: [DML] Re: Rewiring the AC Panel Lights
>
>
> >
> >
> > I might have another solution to this problem,
> > I have finally found some LED lights that plug directly into the console
> > without modification
>
>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2004 14:52:28 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Delorean Frame for sale



If you want plug-and-play you do need the correct frame. 

But - don't let this put you off an othewise good frame - the ONLY 
difference is how the shifter mounts to the frame, and this can be  
corrected with some metalwork around the shifter mount panel. There 
is no other difference with regard to how the trans mounts to the 
frame, the crossover linkage, etc.  

Dave S



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, deloreanernst_at_dml_a... wrote:
> 
> In a message dated 10/22/2004 12:11:32 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
> funkstuf_at_dml_h... writes:
> <<Would that frame work on an 81 5 speed?>>
> 
> The 5 spd and auto frames are different since they mate up with 
different 
> style and shape trannys.
> 
> Wayne
> 11174
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2004 11:42:23 EDT
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: End of life for idle ECU's


Elvis,  

I just read your post and I agree... I cannot figure out why a vacuum leak  
or bad O2 sensor would cause the idle to hunt, (as mine does 900 - 1200)
 
The only way I can see this happening is if the vacuum leak is somehow not  
constant and keeps changing then the ECU might have a hard time compensating 
for  it.
 
Please let me know what you find out.

 
Thanks

Dē & 6530


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2004 10:37:17 -0500
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Re: stripping paint


No offense to anyone who owns a red D, but I have never liked the red 
painted cars,
something about the color does not seem to complement the car for some 
reason.
Many other people I have talked to agree.
If you like it, that's all that matters.

It seems most everyone seems to like Ron's yellow D, but I think all the 
additions he has made
seem to give it a tuner look and make it a little more modern looking than 
most.
...but in my opinion, the only color that looks good on a D is BLACK.
Stephen's black D with the Ferrari style rims was one of the coolest looking 
D's I have ever seen.
If I were to have a painted car, it would be a black one.

However, if there is something wrong with the car as far as having some body 
damage covered
up by bondo and paint, and you really want it to look original consider this 
cheesy option,
just paint the thing metalic SILVER.
If you get the color of silver just right, from a short distance no one will 
know the difference!
With a nice clear coat you won't have all the washing trouble the rest of us 
suffer!

- Videobob

>From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Re: stripping paint
>Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2004 13:51:48 -0000
>
>
>
>
>IMHO, if you want stainless there are too many D's available to mess
>with taking paint off of one - especially if you don't know what is
>under the paint (Bondo, etc.).
>
>Harold McElraft - 3354
>
>
>
>
>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Jay Gosciniak" <gotojayjay_at_dml_a...>
>wrote:
> >
> > Hey everyone I have found a delorean for about $8,000 around where
>my
> > grandfather lived, except that it is painted red, is there any way
>to strip
> > the paint? Would I have to get it professionally done? Thanks! -
>Jay
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2004 21:08:44 -0000
From: "Shiraz Cupala" <shiraz_at_dml_cupala.com>
Subject: Re: Automatic door-coloser (Was: RE: LockZILLA with Remote ZILLAkit for sale)



I have been thinking about this for a while.  I would think that it 
would be better for the doors too.  I imagined that to close the 
system would just release all pressure in an instant and that would 
cause the doors to drop rapidly on their own weight.  I'm thinking 
that this would avoid the unintential off axis pressure when 
manually closing the doors.  I can't imagine the system would take 
that much room or be that complicated.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Payne" <bpayne_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> Has anyone ever considered the use of a micro hydraulic system 
much like
> that on some convertible tops? I know the PT Cruiser uses small 
hydraulic
> pistons that would be of a similar size to our existing door 
struts. Of
> course this wouldn't be practical as you have to find a place to 
fit the
> pump and all the other hardware.
> 
> I know this wouldn't be that practical considering the cost and 
possible
> modifications to the door, but I think it could be done.
> 
> Payne
> #2975
> 
> 
> ---
> [This E-mail Scanned for viruses by Onlinemac.com]








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2004 14:25:23 -0700
From: "Owen _at_dml_ Aerodrome" <owen_at_dml_aerodrome.us>
Subject: Re: Re: stripping paint


Videobob Moseley wrote:
> However, if there is something wrong with the car as far as having some body 
> damage covered
> up by bondo and paint, and you really want it to look original consider this 
> cheesy option,
> just paint the thing metalic SILVER.
> If you get the color of silver just right, from a short distance no one will 
> know the difference!
> With a nice clear coat you won't have all the washing trouble the rest of us 
> suffer!

What's this about trouble washing?  Granted, my car picks up fingerprints like nobody's business, but it's super-easy to clean with soap and water.  Isn't it?  What am I missing?

Regards,
Owen
VIN 10470 "1 21 GW"





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2004 21:41:35 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: ECU end of life- Part deux



I'm consolidating my answers to all responses here:

I am not 100% blaming the ECU- yet. I haven't even started 
troubleshooting. I was making a comment that my car seems to do what 
the last 3 folks' cars did and I'm wondering if I have the same 
problem.

I will say that my idle thermistor is only 17 months old. (Of course 
we all know what happens when I say that right) I haven't read 
resistance across pins 1 and 9. Thanks for that info.

So far, the car has only done that high rev one time in several 
weeks. I also haven't has a surge while driving in weeks.

I appreciate the info regarding the wiring diagrams on DMCUK and 
thanks to Elvis for dissection one for improvement.

Rich A.
#5335








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2004 21:54:37 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: stripping paint



The most efficient way to remove the paint is with chemical strippers.
You must be very careful not to get it on any painted or plastic
surfaces. It is messy and creates a disposal problem. The BIG problem
is that you may uncover a damaged panel that was repaired with body
filler. My advice is to try to leave the paint alone unless you are
ready to repair or replace body panels. You *could* remove the damaged
panel (or panels) and send them to one of the Delorean venders for
repair. After removing the paint you will probably have to regrain the
whole car too.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



-- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Jay Gosciniak" <gotojayjay_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> 
> Hey everyone I have found a delorean for about $8,000 around where my
> grandfather lived, except that it is painted red, is there any way
to strip
> the paint? Would I have to get it professionally done? Thanks! - Jay 
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2004 21:59:17 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: My newest trick-



I'm sure plenty of folks here have done a fuel delivery test before 
so I'm not impressing anyone but I wanted to share the experience I 
had today when I performed the test on my car:

I lack real test equipment. I also was afraid to do this test 
because my fuel lines are brittle and I've broken 2 of them so far. 
Those were the biggest reasons for my procrastination.

After installing new lines, Mike Cohee and I purchased a 6-pack of 
ICB cream soda. After drinking/draining and washing the bottles we 
put them back in the 6-pack and dropped the injectors into the 
bottles. 5 of 6 had useless spray patterns when throttle was 
applied. 3 of those 5 barely sprayed at all. You could force them to 
spray, or change the pattern by lightly tapping the injector with a 
screwdriver handle. There was barely any "singing" from the chatter 
valve that atomizes the fuel.

Fortunately we had a spare set of injectors and they were replaced 
and the pattern checked. The injectors are quite loud when they all 
sing and atomize the fuel correctly. We also checked to make sure 
they open at exactly the same time.

For those who -haven't- done this test but want to, I offer my non-
expert advice- Use clear glass bottles, not brown (plastic melts), 
mark a calibration line on each bottle. This'll tell you if they all 
deliver the same amount of fuel in a given number of seconds. If the 
injectors don't sing, they're dirty. Make sure you don't have any 
that drip when you're NOT applying throttle, and that they all open 
at the same time.

The whole thing was very educational. My idle is rock-solid, the 
Lambda system is working properly, the car starts with a bump of the 
key and I have all the power I'm going to get from the stock 
configuration.

Rich A.
#5335








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2004 22:10:28 -0000
From: "dmcorlando2003" <SundeQuick_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Automatic door-coloser (Was: RE: LockZILLA with Remote ZILLAkit for sale)



That just sounds WAY too dangerous to me.  The doors are close to a 
hundred pounds.  That kind of weight "falling" without it being able 
to be stopped would scare the hell out of me.  Think if a person 
wasn't inside the car all of the way...

Michael Q

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Shiraz Cupala" <shiraz_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> 
> 
> I have been thinking about this for a while.  I would think that it 
> would be better for the doors too.  I imagined that to close the 
> system would just release all pressure in an instant and that would 
> cause the doors to drop rapidly on their own weight.  I'm thinking 
> that this would avoid the unintential off axis pressure when 
> manually closing the doors.  I can't imagine the system would take 
> that much room or be that complicated.
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Payne" <bpayne_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> > Has anyone ever considered the use of a micro hydraulic system 
> much like
> > that on some convertible tops? I know the PT Cruiser uses small 
> hydraulic
> > pistons that would be of a similar size to our existing door 
> struts. Of
> > course this wouldn't be practical as you have to find a place to 
> fit the
> > pump and all the other hardware.
> > 
> > I know this wouldn't be that practical considering the cost and 
> possible
> > modifications to the door, but I think it could be done.
> > 
> > Payne
> > #2975
> > 
> > 
> > ---
> > [This E-mail Scanned for viruses by Onlinemac.com]








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2004 22:14:40 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: End of life for idle ECU's



>From my experience what I have found as a cause for a hunting idle is
vacuum leaks for sure but mostly 1 or more cylinders are not firing
evenly. A dirty fuel injector, a bad ignition wire, low compression, a
valve out-of-adjustment, is the kind of thing to look for. MY theory
is when the motor fires on the low cylinder the engine slows down. The
idle ECU tries to compensate by increasing the idle but by time the
correction kicks in the engine is already past that cylinder and is
now firing on a better running cylinder so the correction causes an
overshoot so now the motor is running too fast so now it slows the
motor down. Now you can see why the motor seems to "hunt". There is no
way to adjust any dampening into the control loop so the "fix" is to
get all the cylinders firing as evenly as you can. Do a compression
test. Forget the actual pressure #. Just compare them to each other
and if they are not within 5% you will have trouble getting the engine
to idle smooth. Next, clean and regap the spark plugs very carefully
so they are all the same. Clean the fuel injectors and replace the
seals. If it won't idle any better look for a vacuum leak, like the
"O" rings on the intake manifold to the head or the "O" ring under the
mixture unit to the cold start valve. It is also possible the idle
motor "sticks" and is not responding fast enough to the ECU. In this
case trying someone else's might prove that out. I know it is possible
for the idle ECU to go bad but it is a low failure rate item. A lot
more likely to find a bad ignition wire, a miss-gapped sprk plug, or
dirty fuel injectors.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, doctorDHD_at_dml_a... wrote:
> 
> Elvis,  
> 
> I just read your post and I agree... I cannot figure out why a
vacuum leak  
> or bad O2 sensor would cause the idle to hunt, (as mine does 900 - 1200)
>  
> The only way I can see this happening is if the vacuum leak is
somehow not  
> constant and keeps changing then the ECU might have a hard time
compensating 
> for  it.
>  
> Please let me know what you find out.
> 
>  
> Thanks
> 
> Dē & 6530
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2004 22:28:20 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Brake Problem



On a nearby Delorean I helped the owner with some brake problems. I
mention this because it turned out to have an unusual cause. When he
first got the car it pulled really hard to the right. I correctly
diagnosed a stuck piston in the right caliper. We rebuilt it and it
fixed the pull to the right. It never really seemed "right" but it
definatly was better. Some time later (a year) the car would again
pull really hard to the right after driving for a while. It pulled so
hard to the right the right front wheel started to smoke! Afer waiting
around an hour for it to cool off it would drive normaly for a while
until it would lock up again. I thought maybe the brake fluid was
contaminated and the water inside was turning into steam causing the
pressure and locking up the right caliper. We flushed and bled and got
no water or dirt out. Now I realize that was wrong because both front
calipers would have locked up if the fluid was contaminated. I have
seen this only twice and not on Deloreans. We changed the front right
brake hose and the problem has not reoccured. It seems the inside of
the brake hose comes loose and acts like a check valve. When the brake
fluid heats up the pressure cannot be relieved back to the Master
cylinder (this is called compensation) it forces the pistons on the
caliper to lock up the rotor. I am bringing this up because most of us
are driving on 20 + year old hoses. If anyone gets these symptoms they
should immediatly consider the brake hose since it is way past it's
service life.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2004 17:58:13 -0500
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Automatic door-coloser


The gull wing doors on the brickin automatically closed.  The hydraulic 
cylinders bled down and the doors locked.  It took about 30 seconds on 
the slow hydraulics.

With the air cylinder convertion it was about 5 seconds.  Actually very 
nice except for the visual appearance of the cylinder.

Bob






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2004 15:55:19 -0700 (PDT)
From: kevin creason <kcreason77_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Plugged canister


Some time ago someone mentioned replacing the little
filter in the bottom of the charcoal canister.
I finally did that this weekend, and wish I had done
it earlier.
The filter was completely filled and packed with dirt.
The drain tube was also plugged with "stuff"-- not
just dirt but with something else that was starting to
look like old, rotting cardboard.
I recommend pulling it out and cleaning it. Don't blow
too much air into the inlets though, that little bowl
on top will blow its lid off with some force. 

I do have a question about the canister: mine is a
Rochester part (made in US). Is this OEM or
aftermarket? I have a fourth hose nipple labeled carb
bowl which was unplugged so I remedied that some time ago.


		
_______________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Declare Yourself - Register online to vote today!
http://vote.yahoo.com





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2004 18:55:59 EDT
From: deloreanss_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: stripping paint


You will, without a doubt, have to regrain the car as the grain was most 
likely smoothed out to create a flat paint job. I've depainted a VW beetle, and 
trying all the methods, I also found chemical strippers to be the best. They 
will eat plastic or fiberglass though, so be careful. You ought to get in contact 
with Evil Dan Deutsch (hope I spelled that right) as he has been through the 
whole process on his car. The final result is stunning. 

VB, please leave the red cars alone, we all work hard to keep our cars as 
nice as can be and some of us like the red (as well as stainless steel). You know 
what they say, if you can't say something nice...

John Weaver
RED DMC #10527
MidSouth DMC
www.msdmc.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2004 17:22:01 -0700 (PDT)
From: kevin creason <kcreason77_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: exhaust manifold gaskets


How long do the exhaust manifold gaskets last? Low,
high, average? Any ideas?
I replaced all mine 2.75 years ago, and I can hear a
little "beetling" on initial acceleration. It's not
bad yet, as you can't hear it standing out back
working the throttle spool, and a fellow car-nut
(mustang) passenger couldn't hear it all. But it is
enough to that I can hear it and I don't like it.

And why do the Delo's have this problem? Is it the
aluminum engine and the cast iron exhaust manifolds?
I saw on someone's site that there are stainless-steel
gaskets. Will those work any better? Will stainless
steel manifolds work better?
-Kevin
#4687



		
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail Address AutoComplete - You start. We finish.
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail 





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Sun, 24 Oct 2004 00:45:46 -0000
From: "Steve" <steve_at_dml_fotofx.net>
Subject: Door Question



I am looking at buying a DeLorean within the next few months. I have 
never actually seen one up close or been in one but have loved the 
styling since they first came out. 

Now on to my question....

Can the doors be opened remotely? Not just unlatched but actually 
opened to the full open position? Is this an electronic function or 
do you use muscle to open them to the point the struts hold them up?


Thanks
Steve
Future DeLorean Owner








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Sun, 24 Oct 2004 01:15:12 -0000
From: "istewart88" <istewart88_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Auction in Merced, CA



Hello list,

I received some information earlier this month about an auction in Merced that took place 
today, the 23rd. The list of items showed that an '81 DMC was up for auction, but no other 
information about the car. Unfortunately I was unable to attend, so I'm wondering if 
anyone here attended or knew anything about the car. Probably a long shot, but thanks in 
advance.

Ian








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Sun, 24 Oct 2004 01:41:05 -0000
From: "painterdave72" <painterdave72_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Goofy electrical stuff



Hey all just wondering if anyone can give me some insight into this... I am 
having some goofy electrical problems... When i am driving my car at night 
and sitting at a stop light and the fans come on the volts drop dramatically 
down to about ten or nine or so.. so much that sometimes the radio actually 
cuts off.. I have a new 150 amp alternator from specialtauto and a couple 
month old battery and just installed all new relay upgrades this weekend.. I 
also notice that when my turn signal is on the tach goes up and down slightly 
with it... and good lord the door locks take an incredible amount of electricity 
to lock and unlock... which also causes the tach to jump for some reason... 
any insight would be helpful.. i do have to check the battery volts as per John 
Herveys suggestion yet.. Thanks. Dave..








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 21
Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2004 22:37:09 -0400
From: "Cecil Longwisch" <dmc1982_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: VIN 10497


Anyone on the list own this  SCEDT26T5CD010497 VIN  car??????
I have an individual trying to sell it to me and it sounds very fishy!


Cecil Longwisch
#10663













   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 22
Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2004 23:38:12 -0400
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Brake Problem


I had this same problem on my 93 pickup, drove me crazy trying to find the
problem.
Finally heard the hose whistling when bleeding the front caliper and
realized what the problem was.

Dave Sontos
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 23, 2004 6:28 PM
Subject: [DML] Brake Problem
>
> On a nearby Delorean I helped the owner with some brake problems. I
> mention this because it turned out to have an unusual cause. When he
> first got the car it pulled really hard to the right. I correctly
> diagnosed a stuck piston in the right caliper. We rebuilt it and it
> fixed the pull to the right. It never really seemed "right" but it
> definatly was better. Some time later (a year) the car would again
> pull really hard to the right after driving for a while. It pulled so
> hard to the right the right front wheel started to smoke! Afer waiting
> around an hour for it to cool off it would drive normaly for a while
> until it would lock up again. I thought maybe the brake fluid was
> contaminated and the water inside was turning into steam causing the
> pressure and locking up the right caliper. We flushed and bled and got
> no water or dirt out. Now I realize that was wrong because both front
> calipers would have locked up if the fluid was contaminated. I have
> seen this only twice and not on Deloreans. We changed the front right
> brake hose and the problem has not reoccured. It seems the inside of
> the brake hose comes loose and acts like a check valve. When the brake
> fluid heats up the pressure cannot be relieved back to the Master
> cylinder (this is called compensation) it forces the pistons on the
> caliper to lock up the rotor. I am bringing this up because most of us
> are driving on 20 + year old hoses. If anyone gets these symptoms they
> should immediatly consider the brake hose since it is way past it's
> service life.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 23
Date: Sun, 24 Oct 2004 03:39:21 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Goofy electrical stuff



Have the battery and the alternator tested. Clean ALL the "big"
connections and grounds. Do the bulkhead connectors that go through
into the ignition coil cover on the right side pontoon. Make sure to
do the grounds on the front left radiator support. It is most likely a
corroded electrical connection or a combination of several.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "painterdave72" <painterdave72_at_dml_y...>
wrote:
> 
> 
> Hey all just wondering if anyone can give me some insight into
this... I am 
> having some goofy electrical problems... When i am driving my car at
night 
> and sitting at a stop light and the fans come on the volts drop
dramatically 
> down to about ten or nine or so.. so much that sometimes the radio
actually 
> cuts off.. I have a new 150 amp alternator from specialtauto and a
couple 
> month old battery and just installed all new relay upgrades this
weekend.. I 
> also notice that when my turn signal is on the tach goes up and down
slightly 
> with it... and good lord the door locks take an incredible amount of
electricity 
> to lock and unlock... which also causes the tach to jump for some
reason... 
> any insight would be helpful.. i do have to check the battery volts
as per John 
> Herveys suggestion yet.. Thanks. Dave..








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 24
Date: Sun, 24 Oct 2004 03:46:41 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Plugged canister



I was the person that mentioned it. The nipple to the carb bowl should
have a cap on it but it really doesn't seem to matter all that much.
It is important that the filter is clean and the hose comming out of
the bottom is not plugged up. Mine was solid too and I thought it was
some kind of insect cr-p, I am not sure. Whatever it was it was SOLID!
This will cause a fuel smell if the vapors cannot vent and the
cannister cannot absorb them because the filter or hose is plugged up.
The OEM is a Rochester Products.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, kevin creason <kcreason77_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> Some time ago someone mentioned replacing the little
> filter in the bottom of the charcoal canister.
> I finally did that this weekend, and wish I had done
> it earlier.
> The filter was completely filled and packed with dirt.
> The drain tube was also plugged with "stuff"-- not
> just dirt but with something else that was starting to
> look like old, rotting cardboard.
> I recommend pulling it out and cleaning it. Don't blow
> too much air into the inlets though, that little bowl
> on top will blow its lid off with some force. 
> 
> I do have a question about the canister: mine is a
> Rochester part (made in US). Is this OEM or
> aftermarket? I have a fourth hose nipple labeled carb
> bowl which was unplugged so I remedied that some time ago.
> 
> 
> 		
> _______________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Declare Yourself - Register online to vote today!
> http://vote.yahoo.com








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 25
Date: Sun, 24 Oct 2004 03:55:05 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: exhaust manifold gaskets



If the manifolds were warped when you replaced the gaskets that could
be the reason it didn't last. You have to check for warpage and if
necessary have the manifolds surfaced. You also have to get the head
clean so the new gaskets can seal well. It is also possible some of
the studs are stripped so they really didn't tighten up enough when
you put the manifold back on. Gaskets should last a lot longer than
2.75 years. Maybe a clamp loosened up or you blew a hole in your
muffler? It may not be the gaskets this time. Stainless is better only
in that you can take the stuff apart in the future without breaking
anything, they don't rust or seize. Never-Seize compound will do the
same thing. 
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, kevin creason <kcreason77_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> How long do the exhaust manifold gaskets last? Low,
> high, average? Any ideas?
> I replaced all mine 2.75 years ago, and I can hear a
> little "beetling" on initial acceleration. It's not
> bad yet, as you can't hear it standing out back
> working the throttle spool, and a fellow car-nut
> (mustang) passenger couldn't hear it all. But it is
> enough to that I can hear it and I don't like it.
> 
> And why do the Delo's have this problem? Is it the
> aluminum engine and the cast iron exhaust manifolds?
> I saw on someone's site that there are stainless-steel
> gaskets. Will those work any better? Will stainless
> steel manifolds work better?
> -Kevin
> #4687
> 
> 
> 
> 		
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Mail Address AutoComplete - You start. We finish.
> http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
    dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
    http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
 
------------------------------------------------------------------------