From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2295
Date: Monday, October 25, 2004 2:58 PM


There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. WTB: Wrecked Delorean/Chassis/Frame
From: "thinkstainless" <stldrgn_at_dml_delorean.com>

2. Misfiring on low RPM
From: "Johan" <dmc_at_dml_tranceponder.se>

3. Re: Fans cycling
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>

4. Re: Fans cycling
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

5. Re: AW: Re: End of life for idle ECU's
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMUK Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

6. Re: End of life for idle ECU's
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMUK Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

7. ATTN: Time Machine Owners / Builders - TIME CIRCUITS
From: "Robert Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

8. Re: Re: End of life for idle ECU's
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMUK Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

9. Re: Re: End of life for idle ECU's
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMUK Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

10. Re: Re: End of life for idle ECU's
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMUK Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

11. Re: Re: Plugged canister
From: kevin creason <kcreason77_at_dml_yahoo.com>

12. That time of year again (storage)
From: "Mike Walsh" <yahoo_at_dml_oneskydojo.com>

13. Re: exhaust manifold gaskets
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMUK Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

14. RE: Re: stripping paint
From: "Jason Sisto" <wizard_at_dml_tdgllc.com>

15. Re: That time of year again (storage)
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

16. RE: Re: Fans cycling
From: "D F" <funkstuf_at_dml_hotmail.com>

17. Re: exhaust manifold gaskets
From: "D F" <funkstuf_at_dml_hotmail.com>

18. RE: Re: Fans cycling
From: "D F" <funkstuf_at_dml_hotmail.com>

19. regraining body panels
From: gotojayjay_at_dml_aol.com

20. Re: stripping paint
From: "gullwingmagazine" <gullwingmagazine_at_dml_juno.com>

21. End of life for idle ECU's
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com

22. RE: Re: Fans cycling
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

23. Downshifting
From: "artbywarren" <artbywarren_at_dml_yahoo.com>

24. Re: WTB: Wrecked Delorean/Chassis/Frame
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

25. Re: That time of year again (storage)
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2004 03:43:22 -0000
From: "thinkstainless" <stldrgn_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: WTB: Wrecked Delorean/Chassis/Frame



Im working on a car project and I need a complete chassis from a 
Delorean. I know Perma frame is out there but its so expensive. Does 
anyone out there know of or have a Wrecked Delorean without chassis 
damage, or just the chassis or whatever. I saw one on ebay and am 
considering that one, but its incomplete. Whats up with this 
Delorean in a Junk yard? Anyone got pics or a number or a price?


Sean








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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2004 08:47:32 +0200
From: "Johan" <dmc_at_dml_tranceponder.se>
Subject: Misfiring on low RPM


I have a strange problem.

700-1500 RPM engine runs bad, no power shakes alot.

1500 and above engine runs normal.

I have checked vaccum, ignition cables etc.
What causes this ?

Regards
Johan
5425






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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2004 00:23:15 -0700 (PDT)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Fans cycling


replace the relay for the fans.
jordan
11613


John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:


Fans cycle on _at_dml_ idle for about 5 seconds then off for another 5 or so, very noticeable. What gives wires seem fine and connections are tight, the same results _at_dml_ higher R M P's too. New Alt. and the fan fix is installed for about 6 months with no problems until now. Except A/C stopped blowing cold at same time.
Any suggestions?



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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2004 13:37:30 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Fans cycling



There are 3 things that could cause this.

1 A bad otterstadt switch or if you have the old style pipe, an air
bubble.

2 A bad or old, undersize circuit breaker for the cooling fans.

3 A low charge of refrigerent in the A/C system

For #1 To test it just jumper the 2 wires at the switch and see if
that helps.
For #2 Listen if it clicks when the fans go on and off.
For #3 Does this happen if the A/C is off? If so then it is not the A/C.
Since you say the A/C is not blowing cold my guess is that the
quick-cycling only happens when the A/C is on and you need some
refrigerent.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_y...>
wrote:
> 
> Fans cycle on _at_dml_ idle for about 5 seconds then off for another 5 or
so, very noticeable.  What gives wires seem fine and connections are
tight, the same results _at_dml_ higher R M P's too.  New Alt. and the fan
fix is installed for about 6 months with no problems until now. 
Except A/C stopped blowing cold at same time.
> Any suggestions?
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]








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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2004 14:44:48 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMUK Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: AW: Re: End of life for idle ECU's


Elvis Nocita wrote:

 >And still - a good control loop can compensate any hunting of the idle,
 >especially the bad ones that let the idle vary with about 1Hz.
 >
 >There's absolutely no reason or explanation behind an idle speed hunting
 >
It's simply down to the speed at which the auxiliary air valve can move.
Modern engines use ignitionadvance/retard to fine-tune engine speed, and
the aux air valve is just for coarse adjustments. That coarse (slow)
adjustment is all we have.

 >And also there's a diference between cold and warm ! Sometimes when cold
 >the engine may hunt very bad but suddenly stopps to hunt when it gets 
warm.
 >
The point at which it stops is the point at which the lambda system
switches into active mixture control - proving that the hunting is
caused by a rich mixture in the first place. This is normal on an
original DeLorean engine.

I agree with you that a vac leak will not cause our typical hunting.

Martin







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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2004 14:45:09 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMUK Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: End of life for idle ECU's


  The problem will be somewhere else. When you unplig the motor, it'll 
freeze at the point when you unplug it so of course it'll stabilise. But 
you have to catch it perfectly for it to stay at 800rpm. Wait till the 
fans come in, or a cold mornking, and it won't run properly at that point.

Martin

doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com wrote:

>Dave T or anybody else.  My idle is pretty darn solid when I  disconnect the 
>wire going to the idle speed motor.  It hunts bady when  connected.  Is this a 
>clue as to where the problem is?
> 
>Dē & 6530
>  
>







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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2004 08:55:15 -0000
From: "Robert Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: ATTN: Time Machine Owners / Builders - TIME CIRCUITS



If you already have a time machine, or are hoping to build one then I
have just the thing for you!

I have a set of working TIME CIRCUITS for sale.
These sit on top of the console and have a keypad so you can enter in
the dates you wish to time travel too.... much more than just
a backlit box, this sucker works just like the one in the movie.
The buttons make sounds when pressed, you can enter in the month,
day, year, time, and AM or PM.

The top section is where you enter the time,
the center section keeps the real current time (when powered)
and the lower section displays the last time entered.

This is a totally cool prop and a must have!!!!

These pop up from time to time and sell for about $800.00 or more.
usually they don't have the sound effects, but this one does.

I have it for sale much cheaper than it usually goes for,
so if you want it please contact me directly.

You can see it in my BTTF-STORE at http://dfwdmc.com/
or download this video to see more:
http://dfwdmc.com/media/timecircuits.mpg

If no one buys it from me in the next few days I will list
it on eBay where I will most likely sell it.
I thought I would offer to ya'll first.
I know a lot of you might want it as a cute car show prop,
or to be the finishing touch on your time machine.
It looks pretty good on top of my BTTF pinball machine too!

Trust me, this one is cool!
I only have this ONE and this will be the ONLY one.
I am NOT making these or selling them.
This is a one time only thing.
- Videobob









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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2004 14:45:35 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMUK Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: End of life for idle ECU's


  Sounds like it's running lean to me, and is on the limit of the 
control band the lambda system has. Therefore I agree it's probably 
vacuum lrelated

Martin

David Teitelbaum wrote:

>I recently worked on a car for a nearby owner that had a
>hiccup-hunting type problem. It would idle smooth and had a regular
>repeating bump up and down in the idle. Rob Grady tried to smooth it
>out but the owner didn't want to spend a lot of time (read money) on
>it so Rob had to leave it alone. I figured I "knew better" and just
>had to substitute a known good idle ECU and maybe a Lambda ECU. My
>origional theory was some kind of interaction between the different
>control loops. As pointed out the ECU's only communicate with each
>other by their interactions on the motor itself. I figured they were
>chasing each other's tails so-to-speak. Ater swapping the ECU's and
>several other things that we could think of WITH NO EFFECT I had to
>think of something else. I started looking for vacuum leaks. I found
>the "O" ring to the cold start valve under the mixture unit was out
>and the brass piece that holds it in was sliding around on the tube. I
>got the brass piece and the "O" ring back correctly and although it
>made a BIG   difference, it still hunted a little. I still suspect
>multiple vacuum leaks under the intake manifold but we didn't have the
>time to "go digging" in there. In any case the owner was happier with
>the improvement. You would think a vacuum leak would cause a constant
>effect, not a cyclical one but I have seen it with my own eyes. Anyway
>there was nothing wrong with any of the ECU's. The moral here is you
>HAVE to correct ALL vacuum leaks or the control systems cannot work
>right. Vacuum leaks also have a cumulative affect ie, many small ones
>add up, not cancel out. I have done several motors and when you do all
>the seals, "O" rings, and gaskets you can have the idle very smooth.
>For Elvis where he notices a sudden cahnge in the idle it could be as
>the motor warms up and one of the warm-up systems which uses vacuum
>goes on or off he has a vacuum leak which is causing that, not
>anything with the idle ECU. Of course you HAVE to have a tuned up
>motor with clean fuel injectors, good ignition wires and good compression.
>David Teitelbaum
>vin 10757
>
>
>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, doctorDHD_at_dml_a... wrote:
>  
>
>>Dave T or anybody else.  My idle is pretty darn solid when I 
>>    
>>
>disconnect the 
>  
>
>>wire going to the idle speed motor.  It hunts bady when  connected.
>>    
>>
> Is this a 
>  
>
>>clue as to where the problem is?
>> 
>>Dē & 6530
>>
>>
>>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>    
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
> 
>
>
>
>
>.
>
>  
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2004 14:45:41 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMUK Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: End of life for idle ECU's



David Teitelbaum wrote:

>>From my experience what I have found as a cause for a hunting idle is
>vacuum leaks for sure but mostly 1 or more cylinders are not firing
>evenly. A dirty fuel injector, a bad ignition wire, low compression, a
>valve out-of-adjustment, is the kind of thing to look for. 
>
The single biggest cause of a hunting engine (the typical rythmic 
up-down-up-down) is simply a rich mixture. This is why almost all 
original engines do it when the engine's cold - because until the lambda 
system decides the exhaust sensor is hot enough, it puts itself in 
"rich". This same effect can be duplicated at idle by depressing the 
full-throttle microswitch. The engine _should_ immediately start hunting 
heavily. This is how I quickly check the full throttle switch. You can 
make any DeLorean do it by turning the mixture screw 1/4 clockwise. I'm 
NOT suggesting peiople do this unles s you have the CO meter to put it 
back again!

Vacuum leaks make an engine run lean and *slightly* lean results in what 
I call an "idle flutter" where the engine is never smooth but the rpm's 
flutter around the right point in a random pattern. This is usually only 
a fraction out on the mixture screw.

I have seen an engine with a high idle problem which turned out to be a 
partially damaged ignition ecu putting out spurious signals which in 
turn confused the idle ECU.

>MY theory
>is when the motor fires on the low cylinder the engine slows down. The
>idle ECU tries to compensate by increasing the idle but by time the
>correction kicks in the engine is already past that cylinder and is
>now firing on a better running cylinder so the correction causes an
>overshoot so now the motor is running too fast so now it slows the
>motor down. 
>
The idlespeed system in the DeLorean is simply not quick enough to have 
this kind of effect. Modern EFI engines still use the "auxiliary air 
valve" but the ecu fine-tunes the idlespeed by using ignition timing, 
and uses the aux air valve only for coarse adjustments.

Martin

>Now you can see why the motor seems to "hunt". There is no
>way to adjust any dampening into the control loop so the "fix" is to
>get all the cylinders firing as evenly as you can. Do a compression
>test. Forget the actual pressure #. Just compare them to each other
>and if they are not within 5% you will have trouble getting the engine
>to idle smooth. Next, clean and regap the spark plugs very carefully
>so they are all the same. Clean the fuel injectors and replace the
>seals. If it won't idle any better look for a vacuum leak, like the
>"O" rings on the intake manifold to the head or the "O" ring under the
>mixture unit to the cold start valve. It is also possible the idle
>motor "sticks" and is not responding fast enough to the ECU. In this
>case trying someone else's might prove that out. I know it is possible
>for the idle ECU to go bad but it is a low failure rate item. A lot
>more likely to find a bad ignition wire, a miss-gapped sprk plug, or
>dirty fuel injectors.
>David Teitelbaum
>vin 10757
>
>
>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, doctorDHD_at_dml_a... wrote:
>  
>
>>Elvis,  
>>
>>I just read your post and I agree... I cannot figure out why a
>>    
>>
>vacuum leak  
>  
>
>>or bad O2 sensor would cause the idle to hunt, (as mine does 900 - 1200)
>> 
>>The only way I can see this happening is if the vacuum leak is
>>    
>>
>somehow not  
>  
>
>>constant and keeps changing then the ECU might have a hard time
>>    
>>
>compensating 
>  
>
>>for  it.
>> 
>>Please let me know what you find out.
>>
>> 
>>Thanks
>>
>>Dē & 6530
>>
>>
>>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>    
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
> 
>
>
>
>
>.
>
>  
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2004 14:44:54 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMUK Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: End of life for idle ECU's




Harold McElraft wrote:

>Open throttle plates are a common cause of your symptom. You might 
>check that because the engine should die when you disconnect the 
>idle speed motor. 
>
No it won't - unless you catch it when it's closed (ie slowing the 
engine down). The Renault idlespeed ecu gives a pin that can be grounded 
to close the valve completely. The DeLorean one doesn't have this so you 
have to resort to putting 12v across two of the three pins on the 
idlsepeed motor

Martin







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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2004 05:00:41 -0700 (PDT)
From: kevin creason <kcreason77_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Plugged canister


Is it possible that the inside is also packed full of
dirt?
I tossed the bottom filter and put a new one in. The
next filter piece up was also pretty dirty, but not as
dirty. It is not replaceable, I could only blow the
dirt off at an angle.
I'm just curious about the condition of the charcoal
inside, now.

--- David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net> wrote:

> 
> 
> 
> I was the person that mentioned it. The nipple to
> the carb bowl should
> have a cap on it but it really doesn't seem to
> matter all that much.
> It is important that the filter is clean and the
> hose comming out of
> the bottom is not plugged up. Mine was solid too and
> I thought it was
> some kind of insect cr-p, I am not sure. Whatever it
> was it was SOLID!
> This will cause a fuel smell if the vapors cannot
> vent and the
> cannister cannot absorb them because the filter or
> hose is plugged up.
> The OEM is a Rochester Products.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, kevin creason
> <kcreason77_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> > 
> > Some time ago someone mentioned replacing the
> little
> > filter in the bottom of the charcoal canister.
> > I finally did that this weekend, and wish I had
> done
> > it earlier.
> > The filter was completely filled and packed with
> dirt.
> > The drain tube was also plugged with "stuff"-- not
> > just dirt but with something else that was
> starting to
> > look like old, rotting cardboard.
> > I recommend pulling it out and cleaning it. Don't
> blow
> > too much air into the inlets though, that little
> bowl
> > on top will blow its lid off with some force. 
> > 
> > I do have a question about the canister: mine is a
> > Rochester part (made in US). Is this OEM or
> > aftermarket? I have a fourth hose nipple labeled
> carb
> > bowl which was unplugged so I remedied that some
> time ago.
> > 
> > 
> > 		
> > _______________________________
> > Do you Yahoo!?
> > Declare Yourself - Register online to vote today!
> > http://vote.yahoo.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
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> sale see www.dmcnews.com
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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2004 13:09:17 -0000
From: "Mike Walsh" <yahoo_at_dml_oneskydojo.com>
Subject: That time of year again (storage)



Hi All.

I have been on the forum for about 4 years and have read just about 
every post, but this is the 1st year actually owning one. 

Usually around this time of year there are a few posts about storing 
the car for the winter. I know there are lots of other posts from 
previous years, but I also know that there are new products, methods, 
and with the cars getting older, there may be better ways of doing it.

I purchased a "carcoon" and plan on storing the car in that (un-
heated dry garage). FYI - a "carcoon" is a plastic bubble that keeps 
a trickle charge on the battery and circulates dry air to control 
humidity - http://www.carcoon.com

I plan on doing the following:
1 Oil Change
2 Drive to almost out of gas and fill 1/2 way with fresh gas
3 Add fuel stabilizer
4 Clean, leather conditioner, ect.
5 Check coolant for temp range (changed 2 months ago).
6 Store with all docs, keys, etc
7 Store in Carcoon with car cover
8 Put on jack stands / blocks to take most of the weight off tires???
(to eliminate flat spots)

Anything else I am missing or should / should not do?

Mike Walsh
#17084
Niagara Falls, Ont Canada
(Great White North)









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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2004 14:45:04 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMUK Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: exhaust manifold gaskets


Whenever we do a manifold gasket set, we take the manifolds to a machine
shop and have the faces run through a milling machine. He has had to
take as much as half a millimetre off one to make it uniformly flat.
There's a lot of variation, and it's not down to heat but the poor
original casting. We haven't been going long enough to see the longevity
of one of our jobs but over the weekend I saw a car on which we did the
job a year ago and it has the sweetest exhaust note now, having done
several thousand miles in between. The trip to the machine shop is also
useful for removing any snapped off studs.

We use the individual gaskets and replace all hardware at the same time.

Martin

kevin creason wrote:

 >How long do the exhaust manifold gaskets last? Low,
 >high, average? Any ideas?
 >I replaced all mine 2.75 years ago, and I can hear a
 >little "beetling" on initial acceleration. It's not
 >bad yet, as you can't hear it standing out back
 >working the throttle spool, and a fellow car-nut
 >(mustang) passenger couldn't hear it all. But it is
 >enough to that I can hear it and I don't like it.
 >
 >And why do the Delo's have this problem? Is it the
 >aluminum engine and the cast iron exhaust manifolds?
 >I saw on someone's site that there are stainless-steel
 >gaskets. Will those work any better? Will stainless
 >steel manifolds work better?
 >-Kevin
 >#4687
 >








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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2004 09:44:21 -0400
From: "Jason Sisto" <wizard_at_dml_tdgllc.com>
Subject: RE: Re: stripping paint


Also, MAKE SURE YOU REMOVE ALL BODY PANELS!!!!  The aircraft paint remover (which works best & can be purchased at WalMart) eats away at the rubber.  It is worth the time and effort of removing the panels, especially if you have to regrain them as well.

Jay

-----Original Message-----
From: Jason Sisto 
Sent: Sunday, October 24, 2004 10:52 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [DML] Re: stripping paint




Check out http://www.sk1pper.com/paint_removal.htm  
 
E-Mail skipperlandry_at_dml_cox.net <mailto:skipper_at_dml_sk1pper.com>   He removed the paint before on his Delorean.
 
I also have a red Delorean and was considering removing the paint and he pointed me in the right directions.
 
Jay

	-----Original Message----- 
	From: deloreanss_at_dml_aol.com [mailto:deloreanss_at_dml_aol.com] 
	Sent: Sat 10/23/2004 6:55 PM 
	To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com 
	Cc: 
	Subject: Re: [DML] Re: stripping paint
	
	



	You will, without a doubt, have to regrain the car as the grain was most
	likely smoothed out to create a flat paint job. I've depainted a VW beetle, and
	trying all the methods, I also found chemical strippers to be the best. They
	will eat plastic or fiberglass though, so be careful. You ought to get in contact
	with Evil Dan Deutsch (hope I spelled that right) as he has been through the
	whole process on his car. The final result is stunning.
	
	VB, please leave the red cars alone, we all work hard to keep our cars as
	nice as can be and some of us like the red (as well as stainless steel). You know
	what they say, if you can't say something nice...
	
	John Weaver
	RED DMC #10527
	MidSouth DMC
	www.msdmc.com
	
	
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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2004 15:13:14 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: That time of year again (storage)


Putting the car on blocks and allowing the suspension to 
droop is a bad idea.  The suspension bushings are 
rubber cylinders that are gripped on the outside by
the suspension arm and are bonded to a metal 
sleeve on the inside.  The metal sleeve is clamped
by the suspension bolts when they are tightened.
The bolts do not (or are not supposed to)
rotate within the bushing, and the bushing is not
supposed to rotate within the suspension arm.
The bushing itself gets twisted along it's length 
as the suspension moves.  If you let the suspension
hang, you are deforming the rubber in the bushing
to it's maximum.  If you leave it like this for a long
time, you will ruin the bushings.

Your best bet would be to find any rim that will fit
the car and put on cheap old tires on them and let
the car sit on those while it is stored.  The car 
wouldn't be driven on these tires, so they could 
even be used tires from the scrap bin at a tire shop.
They just need to hold air.  If you are only going to 
store the car for one winter season, overinflate 
your tires and don't worry about them.  If you 
are going to store for years, leave the tires alone -
you will want to replace them after being stored that
long anyway.

--
Mike


-------------- Original message from "Mike Walsh" : -------------- 

> 
> 
> 
> Hi All. 
> 
> I have been on the forum for about 4 years and have read just about 
> every post, but this is the 1st year actually owning one. 
> 
> Usually around this time of year there are a few posts about storing 
> the car for the winter. I know there are lots of other posts from 
> previous years, but I also know that there are new products, methods, 
> and with the cars getting older, there may be better ways of doing it. 

[snip]

> 8 Put on jack stands / blocks to take most of the weight off tires??? 
> (to eliminate flat spots) 
> 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2004 15:21:25 +0000
From: "D F" <funkstuf_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Fans cycling


This brings up another question that I had been wondering about.
My cooling fans work fine when the car heats up.  They cool it down and shut 
off.
When my air conditioner is on they cycle.  I have a new otterstat switch and 
fairly recently had my air conditioner charged.  I just thought it was 
normal that the fans cycled like that so straighten me out.

Sincerely,
Dale Funk
4984

>From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Re: Fans cycling
>Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2004 13:37:30 -0000
>
>
>
>
>There are 3 things that could cause this.
>
>1 A bad otterstadt switch or if you have the old style pipe, an air
>bubble.
>
>2 A bad or old, undersize circuit breaker for the cooling fans.
>
>3 A low charge of refrigerent in the A/C system
>
>For #1 To test it just jumper the 2 wires at the switch and see if
>that helps.
>For #2 Listen if it clicks when the fans go on and off.
>For #3 Does this happen if the A/C is off? If so then it is not the A/C.
>Since you say the A/C is not blowing cold my guess is that the
>quick-cycling only happens when the A/C is on and you need some
>refrigerent.
>David Teitelbaum
>vin 10757
>
>
>
>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_y...>
>wrote:
> >
> > Fans cycle on _at_dml_ idle for about 5 seconds then off for another 5 or
>so, very noticeable.  What gives wires seem fine and connections are
>tight, the same results _at_dml_ higher R M P's too.  New Alt. and the fan
>fix is installed for about 6 months with no problems until now.
>Except A/C stopped blowing cold at same time.
> > Any suggestions?
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>







________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2004 15:30:31 +0000
From: "D F" <funkstuf_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: exhaust manifold gaskets


This will be interesting to track.  when I first got my auto it had been 
sitting for quite some time and once I did the fuel system and started it 
the first thing I noticed was the exhaust gasket.
that was about (3,000 miles ago)  I also had the exhaust manifold milled, it 
was amazing how bad it was.  I had assumed that sitting around for an 
extended period may have facilitated the corrosion just due to a lot of 
condensation, and the differing metals.
Dale Funk
4984


>From: Martin Gutkowski - DMUK Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [DML] exhaust manifold gaskets
>Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2004 14:45:04 +0100
>
>
>
>Whenever we do a manifold gasket set, we take the manifolds to a machine
>shop and have the faces run through a milling machine. He has had to
>take as much as half a millimetre off one to make it uniformly flat.
>There's a lot of variation, and it's not down to heat but the poor
>original casting. We haven't been going long enough to see the longevity
>of one of our jobs but over the weekend I saw a car on which we did the
>job a year ago and it has the sweetest exhaust note now, having done
>several thousand miles in between. The trip to the machine shop is also
>useful for removing any snapped off studs.
>
>We use the individual gaskets and replace all hardware at the same time.
>
>Martin
>
>kevin creason wrote:
>
>  >How long do the exhaust manifold gaskets last? Low,
>  >high, average? Any ideas?
>  >I replaced all mine 2.75 years ago, and I can hear a
>  >little "beetling" on initial acceleration. It's not
>  >bad yet, as you can't hear it standing out back
>  >working the throttle spool, and a fellow car-nut
>  >(mustang) passenger couldn't hear it all. But it is
>  >enough to that I can hear it and I don't like it.
>  >
>  >And why do the Delo's have this problem? Is it the
>  >aluminum engine and the cast iron exhaust manifolds?
>  >I saw on someone's site that there are stainless-steel
>  >gaskets. Will those work any better? Will stainless
>  >steel manifolds work better?
>  >-Kevin
>  >#4687
>  >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2004 15:23:44 +0000
From: "D F" <funkstuf_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Fans cycling


I forgot to add this..
I do have the fan fail relay from John Hervey installed.
Thanks
Dale Funk
4984

>From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Re: Fans cycling
>Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2004 13:37:30 -0000
>
>
>
>
>There are 3 things that could cause this.
>
>1 A bad otterstadt switch or if you have the old style pipe, an air
>bubble.
>
>2 A bad or old, undersize circuit breaker for the cooling fans.
>
>3 A low charge of refrigerent in the A/C system
>
>For #1 To test it just jumper the 2 wires at the switch and see if
>that helps.
>For #2 Listen if it clicks when the fans go on and off.
>For #3 Does this happen if the A/C is off? If so then it is not the A/C.
>Since you say the A/C is not blowing cold my guess is that the
>quick-cycling only happens when the A/C is on and you need some
>refrigerent.
>David Teitelbaum
>vin 10757
>
>
>
>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_y...>
>wrote:
> >
> > Fans cycle on _at_dml_ idle for about 5 seconds then off for another 5 or
>so, very noticeable.  What gives wires seem fine and connections are
>tight, the same results _at_dml_ higher R M P's too.  New Alt. and the fan
>fix is installed for about 6 months with no problems until now.
>Except A/C stopped blowing cold at same time.
> > Any suggestions?
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>







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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2004 10:58:58 -0400
From: gotojayjay_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: regraining body panels


how would you do this? has anyole else done this?





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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2004 17:40:22 -0000
From: "gullwingmagazine" <gullwingmagazine_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: stripping paint



If you are going to go to the effort of removing the body panels, and 
I suggest you do, have the panels media blasted.  Its similar to sand 
blasting but not destructive.  

Our Yellow D, which was once red, was stripped using this method.  I 
found it very reasonibly priced and it eliminated the mess of 
chemical products.

Ron
Gullwing Magazine


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Jason Sisto" <wizard_at_dml_t...> wrote:
> 
> Also, MAKE SURE YOU REMOVE ALL BODY PANELS!!!!  The aircraft paint 
remover (which works best & can be purchased at WalMart) eats away at 
the rubber.  It is worth the time and effort of removing the panels, 
especially if you have to regrain them as well.
> 
> Jay
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jason Sisto 
> Sent: Sunday, October 24, 2004 10:52 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [DML] Re: stripping paint
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check out http://www.sk1pper.com/paint_removal.htm  
>  
> E-Mail skipperlandry_at_dml_c... <mailto:skipper_at_dml_s...>   He removed the 
paint before on his Delorean.
>  
> I also have a red Delorean and was considering removing the paint 
and he pointed me in the right directions.
>  
> Jay
> 
> 	-----Original Message----- 
> 	From: deloreanss_at_dml_a... [mailto:deloreanss_at_dml_a...] 
> 	Sent: Sat 10/23/2004 6:55 PM 
> 	To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com 
> 	Cc: 
> 	Subject: Re: [DML] Re: stripping paint
> 	
> 	
> 
> 
> 
> 	You will, without a doubt, have to regrain the car as the 
grain was most
> 	likely smoothed out to create a flat paint job. I've 
depainted a VW beetle, and
> 	trying all the methods, I also found chemical strippers to be 
the best. They
> 	will eat plastic or fiberglass though, so be careful. You 
ought to get in contact
> 	with Evil Dan Deutsch (hope I spelled that right) as he has 
been through the
> 	whole process on his car. The final result is stunning.
> 	
> 	VB, please leave the red cars alone, we all work hard to keep 
our cars as
> 	nice as can be and some of us like the red (as well as 
stainless steel). You know
> 	what they say, if you can't say something nice...
> 	
> 	John Weaver
> 	RED DMC #10527
> 	MidSouth DMC
> 	www.msdmc.com
> 	
> 	
> 	[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 	
> 	
> 	
> 	
> 	
> 	
> 	To address comments privately to the moderating team, please 
address:
> 	moderators_at_dml_d...
> 	
> 	For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
www.dmcnews.com
> 	
> 	To search the archives or view files, log in at 
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> 	Yahoo! Groups Links
> 	
> 	
> 	
> 	
> 	
> 	
> 	
> 	
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please 
address:
> moderators_at_dml_d...
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
www.dmcnews.com
> 
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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 21
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2004 13:45:34 EDT
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: End of life for idle ECU's


Harold etal.  Pardon my ignorance but why should the engine die when the wire 
to the "idle speed motor" (ISM) is removed.  The ISM seems to be a motorized 
vane valve and mine, stays in the partially opened position when power is 
removed.  Is it supposed to close without power?  I wouldn't think so.  Am I 
wrong?  Can anyone check and confirm this?

Dē & 6530





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Message: 22
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2004 18:29:25 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: RE: Re: Fans cycling


The fans should run if the A/C compressor is running or the
otterstadt closes.  So, if the coolant is cool and the A/C 
compressor is on, the fans will run.  If the coolant is hot, 
the fans should run regardless of the state of the compressor.

--
Mike


-------------- Original message from "D F" : -------------- 

> 
> 
> This brings up another question that I had been wondering about. 
> My cooling fans work fine when the car heats up. They cool it down and shut 
> off. 
> When my air conditioner is on they cycle. I have a new otterstat switch and 
> fairly recently had my air conditioner charged. I just thought it was 
> normal that the fans cycled like that so straighten me out. 
> 
> Sincerely, 
> Dale Funk 
> 4984 
> 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 23
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2004 18:09:36 -0000
From: "artbywarren" <artbywarren_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Downshifting



Hi, All. 

Noticed another new oddity with our DMC this past weekend. You get in 
the car and start it up (after letting it sit without driving it 
for.. I donno.. let's say one day or so) and you take off in her. 

Accellerate.. BAM! Second.

Accellerate.. BAM! Third. 

No problem! So you drive for a while and decide to stop somewhere 
along the way. Turn off the car (or not.. it makes no difference)... 
get out and do your thing.  Get back in, fire it up.. try and go.. 

You go all right.. but the car's still in either second or third gear 
from when you were travelling a few minutes ago.  What's The deal?!

As an interesting side note, I had to have both transmission mounts 
replaced in April, and while the car was there (the transmission 
shop), they did a full check on it and said it was fine (as far as 
they could tell).  The only other oddity is the fact that the Tranny 
makes a very bizzare "whining" sound when you start the car.. 

...don't ask.. I have no idea. The transmission shop never made 
mention of the whining and I never knew what it was, so I just had 
the shop (where I have most of the work done) look for the noise just 
for the hell of it, they checked it, found out it was in the tranny, 
but said everything seemed OK.

..that probably wasn't even worth mentioning, I just find it odd.

So anyway: You think it could be anything other than the CPU governer 
causing this?  I mean,  I'm more than willing to just replace it or 
have  Mr. Hervey service it  (was going to do that last trip but 
spent the alotted funds for the month).  However, the car never 
has "trouble" up-shifting, the shifts are very much right on time and 
there is no in-between. The car also has NO trouble popping right 
into reverse or drive on command, another sign of a failing shift 
CPU.  I'm confused!  What's your vote?



 









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Message: 24
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2004 15:27:27 -0400
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: WTB: Wrecked Delorean/Chassis/Frame


I may have what you need 
e-mail me back privately or give me a call
the number is on the dcs web page

Ken





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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 25
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2004 15:25:00 -0400
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: That time of year again (storage)


I have a building that we use for car storage
it is heated and clean 
rates start at $59 
go to cincinnaticarstorage.com
So far the DeLoreans outnumber other cars including the one lonely vett
Ken





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