From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2296
Date: Tuesday, October 26, 2004 10:49 AM


There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: That time of year again (storage)
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

2. Re: Misfiring on low RPM
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

3. DCS video part 2
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

4. Re: Downshifting
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

5. Re: Re: That time of year again (storage)
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

6. Diagnostic plug
From: nicholden_at_dml_yahoo.com

7. RE: DCS video part 2
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

8. Re: regraining body panels
From: Cory Cooley <mrdelorean88_at_dml_yahoo.com>

9. Re: Diagnostic plug
From: "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_cox.net>

10. RE: Installing the Trip Reset Shaft
From: "James Espey" <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>

11. Re: Diagnostic plug
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

12. DeLorean Parts and Service Facilities
From: "James Espey" <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>

13. Re: Diagnostic plug
From: "outatym2001" <outatym2001_at_dml_yahoo.com>

14. Re: End of life for idle ECU's
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

15. RE: Re: Fans cycling
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

16. RE: WTB: Wrecked Delorean/Chassis/Frame
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

17. Re: Delorean in junk yard
From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink_at_dml_yahoo.com>

18. Re: Las Vegas Reminder
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>

19. RE: Misfiring on low RPM
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

20. Re: That time of year again (storage)
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

21. Re: Installing the Trip Reset Shaft
From: "p12c16" <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com>

22. Re: RE: Installing the Trip Reset Shaft
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMUK Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

23. Re: That time of year again (storage)
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>

24. RE: regraining body panels
From: "Dismukes, Marc E" <marc.e.dismukes_at_dml_lmco.com>

25. Re: That time of year again (storage)
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2004 19:44:01 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: That time of year again (storage)



Jackstands are a good idea, just use them under the lower control arm
in the front and the rear bearing carrier in the back. The idea is to
try to maintain "Ride Height" so you don't put stress on the bushings.
You might want to use a small piece of plywood under each of the
jackstands so you don't damage the bottom of the Carcoon. As for fuel
I still recomend removing it all so you don't have to use fuel
stabilizers. I would add remove the battery and store in a heated area
on wood and trickle charge it once a month for 1 day. Save the oil
change for when you take it out of storage. Remove anything in the
garage that could fall on the car while in storage, it is a lot more
common than you might think, ask your insurance company about it. Keep
the insurance policy in a safe place other than the car.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Mike Walsh" <yahoo_at_dml_o...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi All.
> 
> I have been on the forum for about 4 years and have read just about 
> every post, but this is the 1st year actually owning one. 
> 
> Usually around this time of year there are a few posts about storing 
> the car for the winter. I know there are lots of other posts from 
> previous years, but I also know that there are new products, methods, 
> and with the cars getting older, there may be better ways of doing it.
> 
> I purchased a "carcoon" and plan on storing the car in that (un-
> heated dry garage). FYI - a "carcoon" is a plastic bubble that keeps 
> a trickle charge on the battery and circulates dry air to control 
> humidity - http://www.carcoon.com
> 
> I plan on doing the following:
> 1 Oil Change
> 2 Drive to almost out of gas and fill 1/2 way with fresh gas
> 3 Add fuel stabilizer
> 4 Clean, leather conditioner, ect.
> 5 Check coolant for temp range (changed 2 months ago).
> 6 Store with all docs, keys, etc
> 7 Store in Carcoon with car cover
> 8 Put on jack stands / blocks to take most of the weight off tires???
> (to eliminate flat spots)
> 
> Anything else I am missing or should / should not do?
> 
> Mike Walsh
> #17084
> Niagara Falls, Ont Canada
> (Great White North)








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2004 19:34:57 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Misfiring on low RPM



How did you check vacuum, ignition cables, etc? It could still be that
and/or other things like a dirty fuel injector, worn spark plugs, one
of the timing advance systems not working correctly etc. There a just
a lot of things that can cause or contribute to these symptoms.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Johan" <dmc_at_dml_t...> wrote:
> 
> I have a strange problem.
> 
> 700-1500 RPM engine runs bad, no power shakes alot.
> 
> 1500 and above engine runs normal.
> 
> I have checked vaccum, ignition cables etc.
> What causes this ?
> 
> Regards
> Johan
> 5425








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2004 15:33:56 -0400
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: DCS video part 2


I had a lot of owners ask me if there is more video avail from the car show at PF.

Most bought Video Bobs and enjoyed it.  The quality is excellent.

I asked Video Bob to see what he has left and if he can make a second DVD for us.  He said he would look at it and see what is left and he does have a lot of footage left to choose from so I hope he finds enough.

More is better I guess:-)

This is a good quality video.(not fuzzy and a lot more steady than normal video with a hand cam)  

Ken






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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2004 19:31:42 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Downshifting



The shift computer is "ill". The whining could be the fluid level (too
high or too low) or possibly a plugged up filter. Check the fluid
level as per the Workshop Manual and check the line pressure. It is
probably a good idea to just clean the filter anyway. Go to the Tech
area at dmcnews.com for the procedure on cleaning the filter or find a
new filter and gasket. You should also do ALL the external
adjustments. Of course I am assuming here that we are talking about an
automatic transmission.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "artbywarren" <artbywarren_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi, All. 
> 
> Noticed another new oddity with our DMC this past weekend. You get in 
> the car and start it up (after letting it sit without driving it 
> for.. I donno.. let's say one day or so) and you take off in her. 
> 
> Accellerate.. BAM! Second.
> 









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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2004 20:09:43 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: Re: That time of year again (storage)


I will disagree with Dave on one point - do not leave old oil in 
the crankcase.  The contaminants in used oil are not friendly to 
bearings.  Change oil before you put the car up.
--
Mike


-------------- Original message from "David Teitelbaum" : -------------- 

> 
> 
> 
> Jackstands are a good idea, just use them under the lower control arm 
> in the front and the rear bearing carrier in the back. The idea is to 
> try to maintain "Ride Height" so you don't put stress on the bushings. 
> You might want to use a small piece of plywood under each of the 
> jackstands so you don't damage the bottom of the Carcoon. As for fuel 
> I still recomend removing it all so you don't have to use fuel 
> stabilizers. I would add remove the battery and store in a heated area 
> on wood and trickle charge it once a month for 1 day. Save the oil 
> change for when you take it out of storage. Remove anything in the 
> garage that could fall on the car while in storage, it is a lot more 
> common than you might think, ask your insurance company about it. Keep 
> the insurance policy in a safe place other than the car. 
> David Teitelbaum 
> vin 10757 
> 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2004 20:50:41 -0000
From: nicholden_at_dml_yahoo.com
Subject: Diagnostic plug



Hi, what is the purpose of the sensor on the back of the engine that 
reads off the fly wheel and goes up to the diagnostic plug? I am 
stripping my engine of all unnessary parts at the moment as i now 
have EFI fitted. Just wondering if i really need the diagnostic plug 
now as i have a computer that i can read actual values off. 

Thanks Nick -sydney








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2004 15:09:55 -0500
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: DCS video part 2


I guess if there is enough interest I will put something together.
I had 12 hours of footage, including the entire awards, raffle and auction.
So I will put something together and try to fit it all on one 2 hour DVD.
I might not make it as involved as the PF video,
the Pigeon Forge video has an interactive DVD menu, sleeve, custom titles 
and all
sorts of stuff on it...if I make this other video it will not be as tricked 
out, but the
quality will still be good.
- VB

>From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] DCS video part 2
>Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2004 15:33:56 -0400
>
>
>
>I had a lot of owners ask me if there is more video avail from the car show 
>at PF.
>
>Most bought Video Bobs and enjoyed it.  The quality is excellent.
>
>I asked Video Bob to see what he has left and if he can make a second DVD 
>for us.  He said he would look at it and see what is left and he does have 
>a lot of footage left to choose from so I hope he finds enough.
>
>More is better I guess:-)
>
>This is a good quality video.(not fuzzy and a lot more steady than normal 
>video with a hand cam)
>
>Ken
>
>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2004 15:18:52 -0700 (PDT)
From: Cory Cooley <mrdelorean88_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: regraining body panels


Its a simple concept, you take whats called a schlor pad, basically sandpaper formed into a cube, with a bucket of water or what ever, wet the pad and place on what panel that needs to be regrained. GO WITH THE GRAIN, and attempt to make it as straight as possible any little twitches could screw up the grain and thats not a good thing. When doing areas such as the truck, LITTLE PRESSURE AS POSSIBLE. forcing it will cause that annoying "X" to show up, then your screwed.
Cory C

gotojayjay_at_dml_aol.com wrote:


how would you do this? has anyole else done this?





To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
Yahoo! Groups Links








		
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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2004 22:42:11 -0000
From: "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Diagnostic plug



>From what I understand, that plug really isn't hooked up for anything 
except for timing and you can do that with a timing light.

It may have been put in there for future purposes, but right now it's 
just an unused socket.

Johnny
5518


> 
> 
> Hi, what is the purpose of the sensor on the back of the engine 
that 
> reads off the fly wheel and goes up to the diagnostic plug? I am 
> stripping my engine of all unnessary parts at the moment as i now 
> have EFI fitted. Just wondering if i really need the diagnostic 
plug 
> now as i have a computer that i can read actual values off. 
> 
> Thanks Nick -sydney








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2004 17:43:46 -0500
From: "James Espey" <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: RE: Installing the Trip Reset Shaft


Patrick -

I've asked Jill here at DMC (Texas) to send you a PDF of the illustrated
instructions on how to replace this part. Future buyers of this part will
get these instructions with the part.

The original AC-Delco part was very weak, and was discontinued several years
ago. More details about the new ones are here:

http://www.delorean.com/trip-reset-shaft.asp

There should be no need to "band-aid" it together with glue or anything
else, even if you do still have the broken piece. For $15, you made the
right move to fix it right.

Let me know how they work out for you.

Regards,

James Espey
DeLorean Motor Company (Texas)
15023 Eddie Drive
Humble, Texas 77396

http://www.delorean.com




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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2004 23:34:56 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Diagnostic plug



The flywheel sensor is not used. The diagnostic plug is useful for
checking system voltage and Lambda duty cycle so I would not remove
the plug, just the sensor to the flywheel and the wire. Refer to
M:03:01-:02
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "thebrave65" <johnnysher1_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> 
> 
> From what I understand, that plug really isn't hooked up for anything 
> except for timing and you can do that with a timing light.
> 
> It may have been put in there for future purposes, but right now it's 
> just an unused socket.
> 
> Johnny
> 5518
> 
> 
> > 
> > 
> > Hi, what is the purpose of the sensor on the back of the engine 
> that 
> > reads off the fly wheel and goes up to the diagnostic plug? I am 
> > stripping my engine of all unnessary parts at the moment as i now 
> > have EFI fitted. Just wondering if i really need the diagnostic 
> plug 
> > now as i have a computer that i can read actual values off. 
> > 
> > Thanks Nick -sydney








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2004 18:02:03 -0500
From: "James Espey" <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: DeLorean Parts and Service Facilities


(I was out of town all last week on vacation, and just now am catching
Gary's posting.)

Gary and list -

The DeLorean community doesn't need another internet-only part seller - it
needs more service centers. You never hear anyone on the list complaining
about where to get parts, only where to get service near to where they live.
We'd love to see a service center open in an area that is not currently
served by a DeLorean-specific center and we'd support it all we could.

The fact remains that ALL of the "on the side" parts sellers that have
popped up in the last 20+ years have all gone away - anyone here remember
Scientific Automotive (Ben Byrd), DeLorean Specialties (Fred Lockett),
DeLorean Gold (Gene Tufaro), DeLorean Parts (Teri Jennings), Joe Perotta,
Harry Ward, Elite Motors, DeLorean Specialty Products, even DMC Joe. Some of
the things that some of them sold were not that well designed or suited for
the purpose for which they were sold.

All of them have/had the best of intentions, but changes of life or other
reasons caused them to disappear (and in some cases intermittently re-appear
only to disappear again), leaving behind a trail of broken promises,
warranties, etc. Something to keep in mind when you decide where to buy your
parts.

Many owners complain about the stupid thing(s) the "PO" (previous owners)
did to their cars, without realizing that in some instances they are doing
the *same* things to their cars when they bypass the proper vendors (those
with shops that have the hands-on experience with the parts they sell) any
by parts that may or may not be the correct ones. Just because a part
happens to be listed in a cross-reference listing for the DeLorean does NOT
mean that it's the RIGHT part for the car.

How do I know this is true? Because we see a lot of cars here at DMC (Texas)
that have changed hands a time or two. We know that the car with the
overheating problem that has the aftermarket Volvo waterpump or the car that
doesn't run right that has the NGK or Bosch copper plugs belongs or used to
belong to "Joe Owner" and we've been called/emailed or the car has been
brought in to us the make it right. In my mind that is the only good thing
about people buying these incorrect parts - we get the extra income making
it "right".

James Espey

------------------------------------
DeLorean Motor Company
Vice President
james_at_dml_delorean.com
15023 Eddie Drive
Humble, Texas 77396 USA
tel: 800/872-3621
tel2:281/441-2537
fax: 281/441-2813
http://www.delorean.com
------------------------------------

(Gary, I think for the record you should have stated that you/your company
(Xynext Internet Strategies) created and/or maintains and/or hosts websites
for two of the companies that fall into the category of selling parts but
not having a service center - John Hervey and Toby Peterson (Special T Auto
and DeLorean Parts Northwest). So to some degree it could be reasoned that
your comments have a financial motive. I don't believe that to be true,
because I know you and that's not the type of person you are.)

Gary wrote:

Please take this as it is intended - as honest feedback.

Personally, I disagree with the apparent DMC-T decision to cut off specific
vendors - supposedly because they don't have a "dealer-like" business -
rather than setting up reasonable wholesale prices based on volume. But it
seems to be their decision to make - for better or worse.

However what really upsets me is DMC-T's arrogance and lack of ethics in
essentially calling specific vendors "Improper" - by referring to selected
vendors as "Proper".

There is more than enough hate and discontent on this list without adding
fuel to the fire by using this term on a regular basis.

Please be honest and just refer to DMC-T's chosen "dealer-like" vendors as
DMC-T's "Selected Vendors".

Thanks,

Gary
IN2TIME
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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Tue, 26 Oct 2004 07:09:41 -0000
From: "outatym2001" <outatym2001_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Diagnostic plug



Hi Nick.
The answer to this one is easy since I have the DeLorean workshop 
manual in front of me.
Yes, as far as I've heard there was never any device made to attach 
to this plug to take a reading.

Page M:03:01
Diagnostic Socket
The Diagnostic Socket on the engine enables the following to be 
carried out direct with approved instruments-
Checking H.T. circuit
Duty cycle frequency valve
Initial advance setting
Checking the development of centrifugal and vacuum curves
Measuring engine R.P.M.

     Wire Connections
A  Lambda Electronic Control Unit Orange.
   Frequency Valve Monitor

B  Feed Wire Purple. Battery Feed

C  T.D.C. Pick-Up on Cylinder Block

D  Earth. Yellow wire

Terminal Allocation          Wire Colour
1.  T.D.C. Signal Pick-up      RED

2.  Diagnostic Socket
    Earth (ground)             YELLOW

3.  Lambda Electrical
    Control Unit               BLACK

4.  T.D.C. Signal Pick-Up      WHITE

5.  T.D.C. Pick-up Screening

6.  Feed                       GREY

Terminal number 1 starts at top row far left socket inside plug.  
Number 2 top middle.  Number 3 top right.  Number 4 second row far 
left.  Number 5 second row middle.  Number 6 second row far right. 

Plagiarized by yours truly.

Many interesting items inside the DeLorean workshop manual.  
Including the torque specs.  Control circuit diagrams.  Brake 
bleeding procedure.  Explanation of the heating and air conditioning.
For example page M:07:01 "A defective relay is indicated by the 
failure of the unit it operates."
Pretty simple.

Mark R. Vanyo
VIN # 02261
markman660{at}ncplus.net

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, nicholden_at_dml_y... wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi, what is the purpose of the sensor on the back of the engine 
that 
> reads off the fly wheel and goes up to the diagnostic plug? I am 
> stripping my engine of all unnessary parts at the moment as i now 
> have EFI fitted. Just wondering if i really need the diagnostic 
plug 
> now as i have a computer that i can read actual values off. 
> 
> Thanks Nick -sydney








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Tue, 26 Oct 2004 00:39:20 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: End of life for idle ECU's



You're correct - I gave you bad info! The motor will not close by 
disconnecting the plug. You have to run it to close with jumpers. I 
can't find my wiring diagram that shows which wires do it - Hervey 
might have it.

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, doctorDHD_at_dml_a... wrote:
> 
> Harold etal.  Pardon my ignorance but why should the engine die 
when the wire 
> to the "idle speed motor" (ISM) is removed.  The ISM seems to be a 
motorized 
> vane valve and mine, stays in the partially opened position when 
power is 
> removed.  Is it supposed to close without power?  I wouldn't think 
so.  Am I 
> wrong?  Can anyone check and confirm this?
> 
> Dē & 6530








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2004 20:26:45 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Fans cycling


Dale, As David pointed out some of the things that will make the fans cycle.
Also, The low pressure switch will cycle to protect the Evaporator from
freezing up if your running the blower motor on low and the AC on high. Your
recycling cold air and that is what it is supposed to do. If you want to do
some testing. Then put the mode switch on normal to draw in out side air and
maybe turn the blower motor up a notch, you should see less cycling. The
otterstat or temp switch will also be working at the same time.
John Hervey
Delorean Parts Supplier



-----Original Message-----
From: D F [mailto:funkstuf_at_dml_hotmail.com]
Sent: Monday, October 25, 2004 9:21 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [DML] Re: Fans cycling




This brings up another question that I had been wondering about.
My cooling fans work fine when the car heats up.  They cool it down and shut
off.
When my air conditioner is on they cycle.  I have a new otterstat switch and
fairly recently had my air conditioner charged.  I just thought it was
normal that the fans cycled like that so straighten me out.

Sincerely,
Dale Funk
4984

>From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Re: Fans cycling
>Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2004 13:37:30 -0000
>
>
>
>
>There are 3 things that could cause this.
>
>1 A bad otterstadt switch or if you have the old style pipe, an air
>bubble.
>
>2 A bad or old, undersize circuit breaker for the cooling fans.
>
>3 A low charge of refrigerent in the A/C system
>
>For #1 To test it just jumper the 2 wires at the switch and see if
>that helps.
>For #2 Listen if it clicks when the fans go on and off.
>For #3 Does this happen if the A/C is off? If so then it is not the A/C.
>Since you say the A/C is not blowing cold my guess is that the
>quick-cycling only happens when the A/C is on and you need some
>refrigerent.
>David Teitelbaum
>vin 10757
>
>
>
>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_y...>
>wrote:
> >
> > Fans cycle on _at_dml_ idle for about 5 seconds then off for another 5 or
>so, very noticeable.  What gives wires seem fine and connections are
>tight, the same results _at_dml_ higher R M P's too.  New Alt. and the fan
>fix is installed for about 6 months with no problems until now.
>Except A/C stopped blowing cold at same time.
> > Any suggestions?
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>







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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2004 20:55:08 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: WTB: Wrecked Delorean/Chassis/Frame


I have and standard shift chassis on the web site.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/deloreans-for-sale.html

-----Original Message-----
From: thinkstainless [mailto:stldrgn_at_dml_delorean.com]
Sent: Sunday, October 24, 2004 9:43 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] WTB: Wrecked Delorean/Chassis/Frame





Im working on a car project and I need a complete chassis from a
Delorean. I know Perma frame is out there but its so expensive. Does
anyone out there know of or have a Wrecked Delorean without chassis
damage, or just the chassis or whatever. I saw one on ebay and am
considering that one, but its incomplete. Whats up with this
Delorean in a Junk yard? Anyone got pics or a number or a price?


Sean








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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 26 Oct 2004 02:10:14 -0000
From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Delorean in junk yard



The yard is on the west side of I94 at mile marker 19.  Since I live 
in Michigan I always come down I96 then get on I94. Whenever I go by 
with my family I also slow down and make then look.  They are 
starting to get anoyed whenever I do this, but hey....i'm driving.  
The delorean is backed up so you can only see the rear of it.  It is 
on the south east corner of the lot right in the corner.  If anyone 
checks it out before I do, let me know.  I'm planning on being in 
that area again within the month so i'll look again.  Hopefully 
someone will be there and I don't get attacked again by the 2 
rottweilers that protect the place at night.

erik


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> 
> Eric,
> 
>  where is this junk yard?  I know a number of junk yard owners and 
may 
> be able to find out some info.
> 
> 
> BOB








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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2004 21:26:25 -0500
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>
Subject: Re: Las Vegas Reminder


We will be in LV and are planning to get together with DeLorean people 
saturday evening Nov. 6   So far we have about 8 people attending.

If you are going to be in LV for SEMA or another conference or vacation 
and want to join us, let me know .

BOB Brandys






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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2004 20:36:23 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Misfiring on low RPM


Base on the little information your giving, I would say you need to look at
the Warm up regulator/control pressure regulator, injectors or maybe fuel
distributor. I would put a CIS tester on it to check the pressure of the
fuel system.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com
Delorean Parts supplier





-----Original Message-----
From: Johan [mailto:dmc_at_dml_tranceponder.se]
Sent: Monday, October 25, 2004 12:48 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Misfiring on low RPM




I have a strange problem.

700-1500 RPM engine runs bad, no power shakes alot.

1500 and above engine runs normal.

I have checked vaccum, ignition cables etc.
What causes this ?

Regards
Johan
5425






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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 26 Oct 2004 02:09:39 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: That time of year again (storage)



-Take the battery out and put it on a battery tender.
-I believe in storing with the gas tank as empty as possible. After 
doing two restorations of fuel systems, Less Is Better. Moisture is 
not a huge problem on this car (if the fuel pump boot is solid) 
because of the plastic tank.
The only year I had any difficulty getting it to start was when I 
used fuel stabilizer, so now I don't. I dump about 5 gallons of fresh 
gas in before I start it in the spring. 
-An alternative to putting it on jackstands is to pump the tires up 
to the max on the label. That minimizes the flat-spotting, which is 
not really a huge problem in five months of storage anyway. 

Dave S

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Mike Walsh" <yahoo_at_dml_o...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi All.
> 
> I have been on the forum for about 4 years and have read just about 
> every post, but this is the 1st year actually owning one. 
> 
> Usually around this time of year there are a few posts about 
storing 
> the car for the winter. I know there are lots of other posts from 
> previous years, but I also know that there are new products, 
methods, 
> and with the cars getting older, there may be better ways of doing 
it.
> 
> I purchased a "carcoon" and plan on storing the car in that (un-
> heated dry garage). FYI - a "carcoon" is a plastic bubble that 
keeps 
> a trickle charge on the battery and circulates dry air to control 
> humidity - http://www.carcoon.com
> 
> I plan on doing the following:
> 1 Oil Change
> 2 Drive to almost out of gas and fill 1/2 way with fresh gas
> 3 Add fuel stabilizer
> 4 Clean, leather conditioner, ect.
> 5 Check coolant for temp range (changed 2 months ago).









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Message: 21
Date: Tue, 26 Oct 2004 02:47:04 -0000
From: "p12c16" <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Installing the Trip Reset Shaft



Jill sent me a PDF file, and the detail is amazing.  It gives pictures and every step needed 
to do the replacement, unfortunately I won't have a chance to do it for a few more weeks.  
The DMCH instructions were far more detailed than what other people had told me to do, 
but everyone else's advice was much appreciated as well.  I will post my experience once I 
have it installed.

Patrick
1880








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 22
Date: Tue, 26 Oct 2004 10:12:14 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski - DMUK Ltd <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: RE: Installing the Trip Reset Shaft


Hi James

Can you quickly confirm that this replaces the broken plastic piece - 
Both mine are broken (one by me, boy did that make me swear!) - there's 
nothing wrong with the shaft itself, but the stupid little plastic 
"socket" it goes in to?

Best Wishes

Martin
#1458
#4426

James Espey wrote:

>Patrick -
>
>I've asked Jill here at DMC (Texas) to send you a PDF of the illustrated
>instructions on how to replace this part. Future buyers of this part will
>get these instructions with the part.
>
>  
>







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Message: 23
Date: Tue, 26 Oct 2004 03:42:41 -0000
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: That time of year again (storage)



I have been looking for a set of junk rims to do just exactly that. 
Would you know of a manufacturer's rim of a certain model car that 
could be used to bolt up to the delorean for winter storage? Any 
tips on model year/model/manufacturer would be great if you know of 
any.

Thanks,

Joe OBrien





--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, mike.griese_at_dml_w... wrote:
> 
> Putting the car on blocks and allowing the suspension to 
> droop is a bad idea.  The suspension bushings are 
> rubber cylinders that are gripped on the outside by
> the suspension arm and are bonded to a metal 
> sleeve on the inside.  The metal sleeve is clamped
> by the suspension bolts when they are tightened.
> The bolts do not (or are not supposed to)
> rotate within the bushing, and the bushing is not
> supposed to rotate within the suspension arm.
> The bushing itself gets twisted along it's length 
> as the suspension moves.  If you let the suspension
> hang, you are deforming the rubber in the bushing
> to it's maximum.  If you leave it like this for a long
> time, you will ruin the bushings.
> 
> Your best bet would be to find any rim that will fit
> the car and put on cheap old tires on them and let
> the car sit on those while it is stored.  The car 
> wouldn't be driven on these tires, so they could 
> even be used tires from the scrap bin at a tire shop.
> They just need to hold air.  If you are only going to 
> store the car for one winter season, overinflate 
> your tires and don't worry about them.  If you 
> are going to store for years, leave the tires alone -
> you will want to replace them after being stored that
> long anyway.
> 
> --
> Mike
> 
> 
> -------------- Original message from "Mike Walsh" : -------------- 
> 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Hi All. 
> > 
> > I have been on the forum for about 4 years and have read just 
about 
> > every post, but this is the 1st year actually owning one. 
> > 
> > Usually around this time of year there are a few posts about 
storing 
> > the car for the winter. I know there are lots of other posts 
from 
> > previous years, but I also know that there are new products, 
methods, 
> > and with the cars getting older, there may be better ways of 
doing it. 
> 
> [snip]
> 
> > 8 Put on jack stands / blocks to take most of the weight off 
tires??? 
> > (to eliminate flat spots) 
> > 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]








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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 26 Oct 2004 05:31:46 -0500
From: "Dismukes, Marc E" <marc.e.dismukes_at_dml_lmco.com>
Subject: RE: regraining body panels


WRONG...

The "Brushed Finished" is done with a rotary brush #3 attached to a
Pneumatic inline polisher/buffer.
The finish is maintained with a "Scotch Brite" (I think it's a #7)
medium grit pad that we use in auto body work. The pad is RED and you
can get it at all auto body supply places.



	Marc





-----Original Message-----
From: Cory Cooley [mailto:mrdelorean88_at_dml_yahoo.com] 
Sent: Monday, October 25, 2004 5:19 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] regraining body panels




Its a simple concept, you take whats called a schlor pad, basically
sandpaper formed into a cube, with a bucket of water or what ever, wet
the pad and place on what panel that needs to be regrained. GO WITH THE
GRAIN, and attempt to make it as straight as possible any little
twitches could screw up the grain and thats not a good thing. When doing
areas such as the truck, LITTLE PRESSURE AS POSSIBLE. forcing it will
cause that annoying "X" to show up, then your screwed.
Cory C

gotojayjay_at_dml_aol.com wrote:


how would you do this? has anyole else done this?





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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 25
Date: Tue, 26 Oct 2004 15:06:06 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: That time of year again (storage)


Unfortunately, I don't know of another rim.  They are out there, 
however, as several owners have replaced their stock wheels.  
If worse comes to worst, you could always buy some damaged
stock rims and use those.  I store my car over the winter
(5 months or so), and just run my tire pressures up to about 
45lbs.  I also clean the car thoroughly, put a fresh oil change in 
the car, and top off the fuel tank.  I remove the battery and put
it on a battery maintainer.  When I recommission the car, I 
put the battery back in, bleed the brakes and clutch, and
fire up the car.

--
Mike


-------------- Original message from "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>: -------------- 


> 
> 
> 
> I have been looking for a set of junk rims to do just exactly that. 
> Would you know of a manufacturer's rim of a certain model car that 
> could be used to bolt up to the delorean for winter storage? Any 
> tips on model year/model/manufacturer would be great if you know of 
> any. 
> 
> Thanks, 
> 
> Joe OBrien 
> 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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