From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2297
Date: Wednesday, October 27, 2004 11:15 AM


There are 23 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: That time of year again (storage)
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

2. Re: That time of year again (storage)
From: "twinenginedmc12" <twinenginedmc12_at_dml_gendreaumicro.com>

3. Re: That time of year again (storage)
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

4. RE: Re: That time of year again (storage)
From: "robert parker" <roberthparker_at_dml_hotmail.com>

5. Re: That time of year again (storage)
From: Thomas Mc Auley <dmc4087_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>

6. Re: RE: Installing the Trip Reset Shaft
From: "James" <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>

7. Re: regraining body panels
From: "deloreand" <ed_at_dml_dmc-service.nl>

8. Re: regraining body panels
From: Jeff Phillips <rvparty_at_dml_gmail.com>

9. Re: regraining body panels
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

10. Re: Re: Diagnostic plug
From: Peter Lucas <lucas_at_dml_Maya.com>

11. Reproduction Headlight Switches (update)
From: "James Espey" <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>

12. Upper Door Seal
From: Phil Priestley <phil_at_dml_alessandros120.com>

13. looking for stock tool kit/jack parts
From: "Owen _at_dml_ Aerodrome" <owen_at_dml_aerodrome.us>

14. Re: That time of year again (storage)
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

15. Re: That time of year again (storage)
From: "Richard" <dmc_driver_at_dml_yahoo.ca>

16. Re: That time of year again (storage)
From: "Richard" <dmc_driver_at_dml_yahoo.ca>

17. Re: That time of year again (storage)
From: "Mike Walsh" <yahoo_at_dml_oneskydojo.com>

18. Re: That time of year again (storage)
From: <ks_at_dml_steinerklaus.de>

19. Door LED's
From: "M. P. Olans" <mpolans_at_dml_creeper.com>

20. Re: Diagnostic plug
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

21. LED's for the center console - I GOT THEM!
From: "Robert Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

22. LED A/C Lights (Was Re: Rewiring the AC Panel Lights)
From: "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_myrealbox.com>

23. Re: Prototype cars (DMC-24)
From: "bjmccool" <bjmccool_at_dml_comcast.net>





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 26 Oct 2004 16:27:30 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: That time of year again (storage)



Not to start a run on them, but with all the cars being parted out 
there are a ton of leftover DMC mini-spares available. Many of them 
have a hard time holding air, which may not really be a big deal for 
this application. 

Most older 4-bolt Japanese cars use the same bolt circle dimension as 
the DMC but a smaller center hole. You could aquire some cheap Honda 
wheels and grind the center hole out larger. Just don't drive on 
them. 

(Just for fun I mounted my DMC wheels on my Integra a few years back -
 they fit fine other than fender clearance in the back. Since the DMC 
center hole is larger it would not have been safe to drive it 
however).

Dave

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, mike.griese_at_dml_w... wrote:
> 
> Unfortunately, I don't know of another rim.  They are out there, 
> however, as several owners have replaced their stock wheels.  
> If worse comes to worst, you could always buy some damaged
> stock rims and use those.  I store my car over the winter
> (5 months or so), and just run my tire pressures up to about 
> 45lbs.  I also clean the car thoroughly, put a fresh oil change in 
> the car, and top off the fuel tank.  I remove the battery and put
> it on a battery maintainer. 








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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 26 Oct 2004 17:43:01 -0000
From: "twinenginedmc12" <twinenginedmc12_at_dml_gendreaumicro.com>
Subject: Re: That time of year again (storage)



Hello.

Wheels from a 1988-1989 Honda Prelude will fit.  They have 4x100mm 
bolt spacing.  I've done it.  This wheel size was very common about 
then.  I would suspect any Accord or Civic wheel from that era would 
be the same.  If you look up "bolt pattern" on the internet, you'll 
get dozens of matches.

Rick Gendreau

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:
> 
> 
> I have been looking for a set of junk rims to do just exactly that. 
> Would you know of a manufacturer's rim of a certain model car that 
> could be used to bolt up to the delorean for winter storage? Any 
> tips on model year/model/manufacturer would be great if you know of 
> any.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Joe OBrien
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, mike.griese_at_dml_w... wrote:
> > 
> > Putting the car on blocks and allowing the suspension to 
> > droop is a bad idea.  The suspension bushings are 
> > rubber cylinders that are gripped on the outside by
> > the suspension arm and are bonded to a metal 
> > sleeve on the inside.  The metal sleeve is clamped
> > by the suspension bolts when they are tightened.
> > The bolts do not (or are not supposed to)
> > rotate within the bushing, and the bushing is not
> > supposed to rotate within the suspension arm.
> > The bushing itself gets twisted along it's length 
> > as the suspension moves.  If you let the suspension
> > hang, you are deforming the rubber in the bushing
> > to it's maximum.  If you leave it like this for a long
> > time, you will ruin the bushings.
> > 
> > Your best bet would be to find any rim that will fit
> > the car and put on cheap old tires on them and let
> > the car sit on those while it is stored.  The car 
> > wouldn't be driven on these tires, so they could 
> > even be used tires from the scrap bin at a tire shop.
> > They just need to hold air.  If you are only going to 
> > store the car for one winter season, overinflate 
> > your tires and don't worry about them.  If you 
> > are going to store for years, leave the tires alone -
> > you will want to replace them after being stored that
> > long anyway.
> > 
> > --
> > Mike
> > 
> > 
> > -------------- Original message from "Mike Walsh" : --------------
 
> > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > Hi All. 
> > > 
> > > I have been on the forum for about 4 years and have read just 
> about 
> > > every post, but this is the 1st year actually owning one. 
> > > 
> > > Usually around this time of year there are a few posts about 
> storing 
> > > the car for the winter. I know there are lots of other posts 
> from 
> > > previous years, but I also know that there are new products, 
> methods, 
> > > and with the cars getting older, there may be better ways of 
> doing it. 
> > 
> > [snip]
> > 
> > > 8 Put on jack stands / blocks to take most of the weight off 
> tires??? 
> > > (to eliminate flat spots) 
> > > 
> > 
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]








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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 26 Oct 2004 15:48:04 -0400
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: That time of year again (storage)


Not many cars use a four-lug pattern.  Since the car won't be driven, and it only has to sit on the wheels, you should be able to find some corroded Honda Civic wheels at a junk yard for cheap.  Most older Hondas use 4 lugs.  don't even have to really fit right!!  14" should be easy, not sure about the rear 15".  but then again, since the discs are so small, you could put 14" 's in the back too i bet.

Andy





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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 26 Oct 2004 20:12:55 +0000
From: "robert parker" <roberthparker_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Re: That time of year again (storage)


Tire inflation addendum:  An article in the Buick Club's  "Bugle" mentioned 
to OVER-inflate car tires for storage. At least to 40 PSI.   I put ~44 PSI 
in my '38 Buick's tires, & ~40 PSI in the Delorean's.  Interesting, as my 
'78 Suzuki Owner's Manual recommends DE-flating by 1/3.  Drive Stainless    
Robert    VIN 6924

From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: That time of year again (storage)
Date: Tue, 26 Oct 2004 02:09:39 -0000




-Take the battery out and put it on a battery tender.
-I believe in storing with the gas tank as empty as possible. After
doing two restorations of fuel systems, Less Is Better. Moisture is
not a huge problem on this car (if the fuel pump boot is solid)
because of the plastic tank.
The only year I had any difficulty getting it to start was when I
used fuel stabilizer, so now I don't. I dump about 5 gallons of fresh
gas in before I start it in the spring.
-An alternative to putting it on jackstands is to pump the tires up
to the max on the label. That minimizes the flat-spotting, which is
not really a huge problem in five months of storage anyway.

Dave S

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Mike Walsh" <yahoo_at_dml_o...> wrote:
 >
 >
 > Hi All.
 >
 > I have been on the forum for about 4 years and have read just about
 > every post, but this is the 1st year actually owning one.
 >
 > Usually around this time of year there are a few posts about
storing
 > the car for the winter. I know there are lots of other posts from
 > previous years, but I also know that there are new products,
methods,
 > and with the cars getting older, there may be better ways of doing
it.
 >
 > I purchased a "carcoon" and plan on storing the car in that (un-
 > heated dry garage). FYI - a "carcoon" is a plastic bubble that
keeps
 > a trickle charge on the battery and circulates dry air to control
 > humidity - http://www.carcoon.com
 >
 > I plan on doing the following:
 > 1 Oil Change
 > 2 Drive to almost out of gas and fill 1/2 way with fresh gas
 > 3 Add fuel stabilizer
 > 4 Clean, leather conditioner, ect.
 > 5 Check coolant for temp range (changed 2 months ago).









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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2004 00:11:50 +0100 (BST)
From: Thomas Mc Auley <dmc4087_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: That time of year again (storage)


Why not just run the car around the block every week or two to keep it running nice instead of going to all that bother each winter?
 
Thomas
Vin 4087

mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net wrote:


Unfortunately, I don't know of another rim. They are out there, 
however, as several owners have replaced their stock wheels. 
If worse comes to worst, you could always buy some damaged
stock rims and use those. I store my car over the winter
(5 months or so), and just run my tire pressures up to about 
45lbs. I also clean the car thoroughly, put a fresh oil change in 
the car, and top off the fuel tank. I remove the battery and put
it on a battery maintainer. When I recommission the car, I 
put the battery back in, bleed the brakes and clutch, and
fire up the car.

--
Mike


-------------- Original message from "Joe OBrien" : -------------- 


> 
> 
> 
> I have been looking for a set of junk rims to do just exactly that. 
> Would you know of a manufacturer's rim of a certain model car that 
> could be used to bolt up to the delorean for winter storage? Any 
> tips on model year/model/manufacturer would be great if you know of 
> any. 
> 
> Thanks, 
> 
> Joe OBrien 
> 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 26 Oct 2004 16:30:08 -0000
From: "James" <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: Re: RE: Installing the Trip Reset Shaft



The shaft and the socket are what comprises the complete trip reset
shaft. So if your shaft broke out of the socket, you need to replace
the complete assembly, which is what this new part is.

The problem with the original trip reset shafts is that the hole (or
socket) in the plastic part is just a little too small for the metal
shaft, and when the originals were made by AC Delco, the shaft would
crack the plastic part. From that point it doesn't take much to break
it off.

If you've lost the spacer/knob/nut, those are also still available if
needed.

James Espey
DeLorean Motor Company (Texas)
15023 Eddie Drive
Humble, Texas 77396 USA
http://www.delorean.com
800/USA-DMC1
281/441-2537

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Martin Gutkowski - DMUK Ltd
<martin_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> 
> Hi James
> 
> Can you quickly confirm that this replaces the broken plastic piece - 
> Both mine are broken (one by me, boy did that make me swear!) - there's 
> nothing wrong with the shaft itself, but the stupid little plastic 
> "socket" it goes in to?
> 
> Best Wishes
> 
> Martin
> #1458
> #4426
> 








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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 26 Oct 2004 20:06:07 -0000
From: "deloreand" <ed_at_dml_dmc-service.nl>
Subject: Re: regraining body panels



Hi evry one
You can also do it white a drilling machine.
You have rotat slow and move very slow to get the good grain.
Last Year I clean 1 red D back to stainless, I take the piant off 
white a stanleyknif.
It was a 2 day job to get the car back like it nieuwe.
See for you self.
http://www.dr-fontana.de/deloarchiv/index.htm
I sell the brush, and you cane see theme one my web site under 
producten/ borstel RVS.
Regards Ed Uding
www.dmc-service.nl 

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dismukes, Marc E" 
<marc.e.dismukes_at_dml_l...> wrote:
> 
> WRONG...
> 
> The "Brushed Finished" is done with a rotary brush #3 attached to a
> Pneumatic inline polisher/buffer.
> The finish is maintained with a "Scotch Brite" (I think it's a #7)
> medium grit pad that we use in auto body work. The pad is RED and 
you
> can get it at all auto body supply places.
> 
> 
> 
> 	Marc
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Cory Cooley [mailto:mrdelorean88_at_dml_y...] 
> Sent: Monday, October 25, 2004 5:19 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [DML] regraining body panels
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a simple concept, you take whats called a schlor pad, basically
> sandpaper formed into a cube, with a bucket of water or what ever, 
wet
> the pad and place on what panel that needs to be regrained. GO 
WITH THE
> GRAIN, and attempt to make it as straight as possible any little
> twitches could screw up the grain and thats not a good thing. When 
doing
> areas such as the truck, LITTLE PRESSURE AS POSSIBLE. forcing it 
will
> cause that annoying "X" to show up, then your screwed.
> Cory C
> 
> gotojayjay_at_dml_a... wrote:
> 
> 
> how would you do this? has anyole else done this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please 
address:
> moderators_at_dml_d...
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
> www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 		
> ---------------------------------
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Mail Address AutoComplete - You start. We finish.
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please 
address:
> moderators_at_dml_d...
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
> www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links








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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 26 Oct 2004 19:57:40 -0500
From: Jeff Phillips <rvparty_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: regraining body panels


I've been able to do really decent touchup using a foam sanding block
like described in the first response with two exceptions.  I don't wet
the pad, and I use short back and forth motions in the direction of
the grain, while moving with the grain.  My thinking was to emulate
the small strokes that a flap sanding drum would make.  For awhile I
only went in one direction with the sanding block but quickly tired of
that and started the back and forth.   I agree light pressure for most
scuffs is enough.  I like the 60 grit sand paper.  Its really a
tecnique thing and I'm sure that you'll get numerous correct ways to
do it emails.  Just try a small less noticible area first.  If you
screw it up it can always be resurfaced again so you're really no
worse off.  Also, right after you do it, the sanded portions will
appear slightly brighter and not match the rest of the car.  In a few
days they will chage color as the newly exposed surface oxidizes.

Jeff
#10544  


On Tue, 26 Oct 2004 05:31:46 -0500, Dismukes, Marc E
<marc.e.dismukes_at_dml_lmco.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> WRONG...
> 
> The "Brushed Finished" is done with a rotary brush #3 attached to a
> Pneumatic inline polisher/buffer.
> The finish is maintained with a "Scotch Brite" (I think it's a #7)
> medium grit pad that we use in auto body work. The pad is RED and you
> can get it at all auto body supply places.
> 
> 
>        Marc
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Cory Cooley [mailto:mrdelorean88_at_dml_yahoo.com]
> Sent: Monday, October 25, 2004 5:19 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [DML] regraining body panels
> 
> Its a simple concept, you take whats called a schlor pad, basically
> sandpaper formed into a cube, with a bucket of water or what ever, wet
> the pad and place on what panel that needs to be regrained. GO WITH THE
> GRAIN, and attempt to make it as straight as possible any little
> twitches could screw up the grain and thats not a good thing. When doing
> areas such as the truck, LITTLE PRESSURE AS POSSIBLE. forcing it will
> cause that annoying "X" to show up, then your screwed.
> Cory C
> 
> gotojayjay_at_dml_aol.com wrote:
> 
> how would you do this? has anyole else done this?
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
> www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> ---------------------------------
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Mail Address AutoComplete - You start. We finish.
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
> www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
> 
>





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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Tue, 26 Oct 2004 21:43:24 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: regraining body panels



Most of us do not have access to a pnuematic buffer. It can be done by
hand with #80 sandpaper and finished with a Scotch-Brite pad or
"Blending Pad" as the delorean venders refer to them. I have not found
a great susbstitute for it so you are best to get the blending pad
from a Delorean vender. The ones you get locally will be too fine and
not leave the proper finish. It is a long, hard, and tedious job by
hand but it CAN be done. The power tools just do it faster but if you
don't know what you are doing you can do a lot of damage fast too!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dismukes, Marc E"
<marc.e.dismukes_at_dml_l...> wrote:
> 
> WRONG...
> 
> The "Brushed Finished" is done with a rotary brush #3 attached to a
> Pneumatic inline polisher/buffer.
> The finish is maintained with a "Scotch Brite" (I think it's a #7)
> medium grit pad that we use in auto body work. The pad is RED and you
> can get it at all auto body supply places.
> 
> 
> 
> 	Marc
> 









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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 26 Oct 2004 13:10:39 -0400
From: Peter Lucas <lucas_at_dml_Maya.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Diagnostic plug


This begs the question: does the flywheel sensor actually output a 
signal?  I assume it is a magnetic pickup of some kind, but I don't see 
exactly what it is detecting on the flywheel. Is there supposed to be a 
magnet at TDC or something that appears in other applications but is 
missing from the DeLorean flywheel?  Or is it somehow watching the 
bolts go by or something like that?

Has anyone ever actually put a scope on the sensor output?

--Pete Lucas
   VIN #06703

On Oct 25, 2004, at 7:34 PM, David Teitelbaum wrote:

>
>
>
> The flywheel sensor is not used. The diagnostic plug is useful for
> checking system voltage and Lambda duty cycle so I would not remove
> the plug, just the sensor to the flywheel and the wire. Refer to
> M:03:01-:02
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
>
>






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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 26 Oct 2004 18:21:52 -0500
From: "James Espey" <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: Reproduction Headlight Switches (update)


We're just about two months into this unique program to get the headlight
switches reproduced, and with the help of thirty or so owners as well as
DeLorean Motor Center and PJ Grady, we're more than 1/3 of the way to 250
pre-orders.

http://www.delorean.com/headlightswitch.asp

Thanks to all who have pre-ordered these switches and shown their support.

Once the "250 pre-order" point is reached, switches will be ready in 60-90
days. At that time the price will also go from $40 to $50.

Email me directly at "james(at)delorean.com" with questions.

James Espey

------------------------------------
DeLorean Motor Company
Vice President
james_at_dml_delorean.com
15023 Eddie Drive
Humble, Texas 77396 USA
tel: 800/872-3621
tel2:281/441-2537
fax: 281/441-2813
http://www.delorean.com
------------------------------------

---
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Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 26 Oct 2004 09:12:47 -0700
From: Phil Priestley <phil_at_dml_alessandros120.com>
Subject: Upper Door Seal


I started replacing the upper door seal on Sunday, got the rivets 
drilled and the old seal out. Does anyone know what size rivets to use 
when replacing it? I searched the archive and didn't find any info on 
it.

  I made several unsucsessful attempts to rivet the new one in place but 
either the rivets didnt grab or were too long. I recall someone 
mentioning using screws in place of rivets. What size screw works?

Phil Priestley
Alessandros 120
http://alessandros120.com/
(503)370-9951







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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 26 Oct 2004 12:21:53 -0700
From: "Owen _at_dml_ Aerodrome" <owen_at_dml_aerodrome.us>
Subject: looking for stock tool kit/jack parts


I need a part or parts for the jack kit.  I've got the jack and a lug nut wrench, but I'm missing whatever part was intended for cranking the jack.  I see there are are a few unused sleeves in the tool kit roll bag, which suggests there might be other tools I'm missing.

In any case, does anyone have just the crank that they'd be willing to part with?

Thanks in advance,
Owen

VIN 10470 "1 21 GW"





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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2004 03:33:09 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: That time of year again (storage)


Because we get lots of snow, ice and salt on the roads 
in the winter.  Minnesota is like that...

You still need to change oil, brake fluid, etc. on a 
regular basis, doing it on a storage schedule means 
I get it done rather than putting it off.  On the plus 
side, I have never had any problems with brakes,
fuel systems, clutches or starting systems on any of 
the cars I store for the winter.  I'm still running original 
brake and clutch master and slave cylinders and the 
fluid is always nice and clear.  They always start right 
up in the spring, too.

--
Mike


-------------- Original message from Thomas Mc Auley <dmc4087_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>: -------------- 


> 
> 
> Why not just run the car around the block every week or two to keep it running 
> nice instead of going to all that bother each winter? 
> 
> Thomas 
> Vin 4087 
> 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2004 08:17:08 -0000
From: "Richard" <dmc_driver_at_dml_yahoo.ca>
Subject: Re: That time of year again (storage)



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, mike.griese_at_dml_w... wrote:
> 
> Putting the car on blocks and allowing the suspension to 
> droop is a bad idea.  


Ok, that makes sense, but what if the wheels are removed first? 
Without the weight of the rims and tires pulling the suspension down,
would it still damage the suspension?

Richard
5853









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Message: 16
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2004 08:23:50 -0000
From: "Richard" <dmc_driver_at_dml_yahoo.ca>
Subject: Re: That time of year again (storage)



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Thomas Mc Auley <dmc4087_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> Why not just run the car around the block every week or two to keep
it running nice instead of going to all that bother each winter?
>  
> Thomas
> Vin 4087

Well, because some of us live in areas where there's ice and snow on
the roads all winter, and even worse - salt. 

Richard
Vin 5853








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Message: 17
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2004 03:25:19 -0000
From: "Mike Walsh" <yahoo_at_dml_oneskydojo.com>
Subject: Re: That time of year again (storage)



"Why not just run the car around the block every week or two to keep 
it running nice instead of going to all that bother each winter?"

I thought about doing just that but in the area where I live any 
driving after the 1st snow will cover the frame in salt (they still 
use actual salt). The roads are literally white when the dry out in 
the winter. I don't plan on putting it on the road until after a 
couple of good rains in the spring.

In reading the posts (thank you all for the responses) I will put 
the battery on a trickle charger where it its heated. I will 
probably do an oil change and leave about 1/4 of a tank of fresh gas 
(with stabilizer?) I still don't know about jacking it up, it has 
new tires so I might try just over inflating or I could just put the 
old NCTs back on :)


Mike Walsh
#17084










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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2004 13:00:01 +0200
From: <ks_at_dml_steinerklaus.de>
Subject: Re: That time of year again (storage)



Joe, 

4-hole rims of an old VW Rabbit will fit front without changes, rear
rims need longer screws and distanceplate.

Klaus
05980 Germany



Joe OBrien wrote:

I have been looking for a set of junk rims to do just exactly that. 
Would you know of a manufacturer's rim of a certain model car that 
could be used to bolt up to the delorean for winter storage? Any 
tips on model year/model/manufacturer would be great if you know of 
any.





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Message: 19
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2004 04:20:27 -0000
From: "M. P. Olans" <mpolans_at_dml_creeper.com>
Subject: Door LED's



Hi all,
     For everyone who has converted their door lights to LED's, I have
a question: did you go with white LED's or red and amber?  What is the
advantage/disadvantage with red and amber LED's vs. plain white?  I
saw them on a car at the last show I was in and the owner said he had
used red and amber LED's but felt he should have gone with white
because he thought they would be brighter.  I don't know enough about
LED's to know if that makes sense or not, and I know some people from
the DML have done the conversion and others sell them, so I figured I
would pose the question here.

Thanks,
Matt, AZ-D VeeP
VIN 16816








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Message: 20
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2004 12:46:54 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: Diagnostic plug



You are correct:

There is a pickup in the flywheel. I've seen it while I was replacing my rear 
crankshaft seal. Many cars are missing the small metal plate that has the wire 
and pickup sensor on it that goes to the diagnostic plug. I actually still had 
mine.

The possible purpose of this pickup other than measuring RPM's by means 
besides the ignition eludes me. I'm sure a vendor like Don Steger (who 
worked at the factory) could shed more light on this.

Rich A.
#5335

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Peter Lucas <lucas_at_dml_M...> wrote:
> 
> This begs the question: does the flywheel sensor actually output a 
> signal?  I assume it is a magnetic pickup of some kind, but I don't see 
> exactly what it is detecting on the flywheel. Is there supposed to be a 
> magnet at TDC or something that appears in other applications but is 
> missing from the DeLorean flywheel?  Or is it somehow watching the 
> bolts go by or something like that?
> 
> Has anyone ever actually put a scope on the sensor output?
> 
> --Pete Lucas
>    VIN #06703
> 
> On Oct 25, 2004, at 7:34 PM, David Teitelbaum wrote:
> 
> >
> >
> >
> > The flywheel sensor is not used. The diagnostic plug is useful for
> > checking system voltage and Lambda duty cycle so I would not remove
> > the plug, just the sensor to the flywheel and the wire. Refer to
> > M:03:01-:02
> > David Teitelbaum
> > vin 10757
> >
> >








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Message: 21
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2004 03:20:13 -0000
From: "Robert Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: LED's for the center console - I GOT THEM!



Hi everyone, 
I have managed to find some nice LED bulbs that are direct
replacements for the center console of the DeLorean.
The kit I am offering consists of 7 bulbs, 4 for back illumination
and 3 for the lower indicators.

They look very nice and are crisp white, this gives the console
a much more blue color with the absence of the yellow tinge of the
old bulbs, I think this looks a lot cleaner and also matches the
color of the headlight / hazzard switches.
Best of all, they produce NO HEAT and use almost no power!

If you would like to get a set of these, I have them listed in the
PARTS section of my website, or you can send me a private message.

Thanks!
- Videobob
http://www.dfwdmc.com








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Message: 22
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2004 05:48:02 -0000
From: "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_myrealbox.com>
Subject: LED A/C Lights (Was Re: Rewiring the AC Panel Lights)



I've posted about these before, including photos (folder 2894), and as
of this weekend, have a bit of new info.  I had previously not
recommended using one in the auto shifter lighting, as it was too
uneven.  So after putting a bulb back in, I realized the lighting in
the shifter is uneven no matter what type of bulb.  (I have the early
auto shifter, YMMV).

Anyway, one of the white LED bulbs actually went out!  I was surprised
at that, but I had the spare from the auto shifter, and I also had
purchased one blue LED to see how it looked.  I tried plugging the
blue LED into the auto shifter and it looks really nice (if you like
blue :-)  ).  So the point I'm slowly getting to is that I recommend
offering an extra bulb "Automatic" version of your kit when you
release it.... just one more place to reduce heat and current draw.

Next time one of my friends with a good camera is over, I'll get some
new pics online.

--Greg
#2894

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_h...> 
> Yes, those are the same bulbs, but not the same source.
> Since I will be buying them in bulk from the manufacturer I will get
them 
> for less.
> So, if you were planning to buy some of these, DO NOT order them
from this 
> site.
> Please wait about a week and I will have them fully tested with
photos and 
> listed
> on my site for much cheaper.
> I may offer them as a package with my side marker LEDS, dash cluster
LEDS, 
> Door light LEDS
> and my other running lights, etc....
> - Videobob
> 
> >From: "Jake Kamphoefner" <jakekamp_at_dml_s...>
> >Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> >To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
> >Subject: Re: [DML] LED A/C Lights (Was Re: Rewiring the AC Panel
Lights)
> >Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2004 02:45:10 -0500
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >Bob,
> >
> >     Are these the ones you found??
> >
> >http://autolumination.com/otherleds.htm
> >
> >For anyone who is interested, they are the BA7s (scroll down about
3/4 down
> >the page listed above).  For 3 bucks a piece, get 4 white and 3 red
to do
> >your A/C panel.  They plug right in, just as the old bulbs do.  No
worries
> >about polarity or improper fit.  Just put the 4 white ones in the
sockets
> >behind the panel, and the 3 red bulbs in the fan fail, defroster,
and lock
> >doors sockets.  *Be careful not to push the sockets back 

<SNIP> 








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Message: 23
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2004 06:24:23 -0500
From: "bjmccool" <bjmccool_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Prototype cars (DMC-24)


There was never actually a DMC-24, only plans for one. The book Stainless 
Steel Illusion touches on this.

> PS: If it's a prototype, the DMC-24, then why is the mass-produced
> car the DMC-12? I mean, you'd kinda think the numbers would go up
> like software releases or Gundam unit serial #'s lol!
> hmm, interesting. I've seen a photo once of a proto-DeLorean, but
> never knew there was more than just the one. Can you describe a few
> notable differences, or is it pretty much the same basic car?
> -John









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